selected, about half a pound, not cut too thick, and very even; place it
upon your gridiron over a moderate fire, turning it frequently; when
done, sprinkle a little salt over; ten minutes would cook it thoroughly,
but if wanted underdone, as in many cases where the patient only sucks
the gravy, less time must be allowed.
122. _Stewed Beef._--Put the same quantity of beef as in the last into a
saucepan, with a quart of water, which place over the fire, and when
beginning to boil, well skim, then add a little celery, turnip, and
carrot, the whole weighing about an ounce, and cut very small, let stew
gently about three hours, by which time the broth will be reduced to one
quarter; skim all the fat off carefully; serve the meat upon a plate,
and the broth in a basin.
123. _Lamb Chops or Cutlets._--Proceed as just described for mutton, but
being more delicate, they will require but little more than half the
time to cook.
124. _Lambs' Feet_ are very nutritious; purchase them ready cleaned; lay
them ten minutes in boiling water, by doing which you will be able to
draw out the leg-bone with facility; then put them in a stewpan (two
would be sufficient), and pour over a pint of water with which you have
mixed smoothly a tablespoonful of flour, and half a teaspoonful of salt;
place them upon the fire, stirring frequently until boiling, when add a
small onion, with a celery, parsley, and parsnip; boil gently for two
hours, and when done, serve plain upon a plate, or with a little melted
butter and parsley poured over. By using a little white broth from any
meat instead of water, you make a delicious soft soup, which may be
partaken of freely.
Calves' feet are dressed in the same manner, but using a double
proportion of everything, and stewing them double the time; they are
served precisely the same.
POULTRY FOR INVALIDS.
125. _Roast Chicken._--Procure a nice plump chicken, which draw and
truss, and cut the sinews; pass the spit through under the skewer as
usual, and set it down before a clear fire; after being there five
minutes, have ready a pat of butter, in the bowl of a wooden spoon, with
which rub the chicken all over; if the fire is too fierce, put it back a
short distance, that it may roast of a yellowish-brown color; when a
light smoke arises from the chicken, which will be in about twenty
minutes from the time it was put down, it is done; but to be quite sure
whether a bird is done, the better way is to press it lightly, with your
finger and thumb; should it feel quite set, it is sufficiently cooked.
126. _Boiled Chicken._--Put a quart of water to boil in a saucepan, with
a saltspoonful of salt, and two ounces of butter; when boiling, lay in
the chicken, which keep gently simmering for twenty minutes, when it
will be done.
By adding a few vegetables of each description to the water, and
straining it when you take out the chicken, you have a very excellent
broth either for the sick or healthy, especially after skimming off the
fat you add a little vermicelli, which must be boiled in it five
minutes.
As it is very improbable that a sick person would eat the whole of a
chicken at once, I have annexed a few receipts, by which a chicken would
suffice for four meals.
First, put a tablespoonful of rice in a stewpan, with half a pint of
light broth; let it boil gently until the rice is in pulp, then put in
the wing or leg of the previously-cooked chicken, which let remain to
warm about five minutes; should the rice be too dry, add a little more
broth; serve the fowl and rice together upon a hot plate. Secondly, if
wanted plain, set it in a stewpan, with a few spoonfuls of stock, and
let it warm gently. Thirdly, it may be folded in a sheet of paper
lightly oiled, and warmed very gently upon a gridiron. Or fourthly,
plain broiled upon a gridiron, and served with a little light gravy.
127. _Partridge._--Proceed in every manner to roast as just directed for
the chicken; a young one would require about ten minutes, or an old one
fifteen, but then the breast only ought to be eaten; whatever remains
may be served in either of the ways directed for chickens.
128. _Pigeons_ may be roasted the same as partridges, but would not
require so long. A pigeon may also be stewed as follows:--Put half a
pint of mutton-broth into a stewpan, with a pigeon trussed as for
boiling, let it stew gently twenty minutes, if young; both the pigeon
and broth ought to be partaken of. Pigeons may also be broiled, by
cutting them open from the bottom of the breast to the joint of the
wings, but not separating them; rub over with a little butter, broil
twenty minutes over a moderate fire, and serve with a little gravy.
129. _Pulled Fowl._--With the remainder of a roast or boiled fowl or
chicken you may make a very light dish, by pulling off all the flesh
with a fork, and putting it into a stewpan, then in another stewpan
place all the bones (previously broken small with a chopper), with a
little parsley, salt, sugar, and half a pint of water; let it boil
gently until the water has reduced to a gill, then strain it over the
flesh of the chicken in the other stewpan, which place over the fire
until quite hot, and serve; should it be too thin, a small piece of
butter and flour rubbed together may be added, and boiled a minute. Old
or young fowls may be used, as it is not always convenient to get a
young fowl, especially in the country, where everything must be turned
to account and properly used: you would proceed with an old fowl the
same as for a chicken, but stewing it three times as much, and adding
more water in proportion; it would be here impossible to name the exact
time required, as the fluctuation is so great, but by feeling the thigh
of the fowl with the finger and thumb, you may ascertain, for if done
sufficiently it will feel tender to the touch, and leave the bone with
ease.
CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE.
LETTER No. VI
DEAREST ELOISE,--I here inclose you the last receipt which I intend
to give you for invalids. You will, no doubt, fancy that my diet is
extravagant; but let me teach you that when you must pay the
doctor's bill, which I consider an extra and painful tax upon
humanity, it is ours and their duty to try to restore health as
soon as possible, which my receipts might, if well coupled with the
science of a medical man, cause a prompt restoration, and have the
desired effect of increasing the butcher's bill by diminishing that
of the doctor. But I must also tell you that I intend this part of
our little work, if ever published, to be useful to all classes of
society, and that, among those receipts, the rich as well as the
humble, may partake and benefit by them in selecting according to
their means and their requirements. I am confident that you will
agree with me that even here I have closely studied the rules of
economy.
I shall therefore close the sick-room door to open the one of the
parlor, and to witness the merry faces of the million who have
abandoned their industrious occupations for the day, and partake,
in the family circle, their simple but substantial Sunday meal. I
always used to say, when in business, that he who works well
deserves to live well,--I do not mean to say extravagantly, but
that devoting one hour a day to their principal meal ought to be
classified as a matter of business in regard to economy. We,
therefore, must be very positive upon this important question, and
make them perceive that dining well once or twice a week is really
unworthy of such a civilized and wealthy country as ours, where
provisions cannot be excelled by any other, both in regard to
quantity and quality. Yours, etc.
HORTENSE.
LETTER No. VII
MY DEAR MRS. B.--Your observation upon the way many people live in
this country is no doubt very correct, but do you not think that if
you were not quite so abrupt on the subject, we should probably be
more likely to succeed in bringing our friends round to your style
of management; of which, for my part, I very much approve. But as
it is a matter of importance, I should like you to describe in your
next communication what are the principal and most useful joints in
a family, and to discourse on them, in pointing out the good which
may be achieved, and the evils to be avoided. Ever yours, &c.
ELOISE.
LETTER No. VIII
Many compliments to you, my dear Mrs. L.
At your request I here inclose the list you require, and which will
show you how circumscribed the middle classes are in respect to the
variation of their meals, in the way of meat and manner of cooking
it. I do not disapprove of your idea in wishing me here to give a
series or list of those provisions; but, on the other hand, I must
tell you frankly my opinion, it being a subject which for some
years I have made a study, indeed quite a hobby. If I am wrong, let
any one who knows better correct me; you will allow I am always
open to conviction and improvement, no matter how trifling, which
often leads to an important one.
I shall therefore name all joints of meat which, though numerous,
offer but little variation when continually dressed the same way,
and observe that everybody has the bad habit of running only upon a
few which are considered the best. They are as follow:
Those in beef are the sirloin, ribs, round, silver-side,
aitch-bone.
In mutton--leg, saddle, haunch, loin.
Lamb--fore-quarter and leg.
Veal--fillet, loin.
Pork--leg, sparerib, loin.
Every one of these joints are of the most expensive parts, because
generally used, although many of the other parts are equally as
good, as I shall prove to you, in the receipts which I shall write
for the dinner, what can be done in the way of made dishes out of
those parts which are rarely or never used in this country by the
middle classes, which will more clearly develope to you my ideas on
the subject Besides, there is this advantage, that if a small
tradesman were to follow these receipts, and buy every other time
he goes to the butcher what he now considers a second-class joint,
he would not only be conferring a public benefit, but also one on
himself, and be the means of diminishing the price of those now
considered the first class, which at the present moment bear too
high a price in proportion, but which his pride causes him to
purchase.
To prove to you that my argument is correct, look carefully over
the inclosed list, which contains all the joints that are cut from
beef, veal, mutton, lamb, pork, and you will find that ten of the
prime are in daily use to one of the other, and principally for a
want of the knowledge of cookery; leaving the science of cooking
our food to a fierce or slow fire, or plunging our expensive
provisions into an ocean of boiling water, which is thrown away,
after having absorbed a great portion of the succulence of the
meat. Try the receipt for the Pot-au-feu; taste the broth and eat
the meat, and tell me which plan you consider the best. Do not
think that I object to our plain joint, because, now and then, I am
rather partial to them; but why not manage to make use of the
broth, by diminishing the quantity of water, and simmering them,
instead of galloping them at a special railway-train speed? Were
the middle classes only but slightly acquainted with the domestic
cookery of France, they would certainly live better and less
expensively than at present, very often, four or five different
little made dishes may be made from the remains of a large Sunday's
joint, instead of its appearing on the table of a wealthy tradesman
for several days cold, and often unsightly, and backed by a bottle
of variegated-colored pickles, made with pyroligneous acid, which
sets my teeth on edge merely in thinking of it, and balanced by a
steaming dish of potatoes, which, seen through the parlor window by
the customers in the shop, would make them think there was a grand
gastronomic festivity taking place at Mr. A.'s or B.'s, the
butterman or greengrocer; this may be excusable once or twice, on a
hot summer's day, with an inviting salad, seasoned with merely
salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, but the continual repetition of
that way of living in winter is, I consider, a domestic crime.
You will, perhaps, say that, in large firms, where forty or fifty,
or more young men dine every day, or even in public establishments
still more numerous, many professed cooks would be required to
dress the dinner, if my plan was adopted; not at all, if the
kitchen is properly constructed: but in these establishments,
joints, of necessity, must be the principal viand, and there is
very little left; what there is, is consumed cold for supper; but
even there an amelioration might take place, although only a plain
joint, either boiled or roasted, roasted or boiled, which is
generally the yearly bill of fare, and so simple, yet seldom well
done, and often badly, which, in a large establishment, must create
great waste, and make bad food out of good meat, and that for want
of care or a little more knowledge, which may appear to you but a
trifling matter, but not so to thousands of poor old people, with
toothless gums and fatigued stomachs, made comfortable within walls
erected by the good feelings of government, or by public charity. I
have often thought, when visiting these establishments, that a
professed cook ought to be appointed, as well as a medical man, to
visit all such in the metropolis, not only to inspect the quality
of the provisions, but superintend the arrangements of the dietary
table, and see that the viands are properly cooked, and thus
correct the lamentable ignorance which exists at the present day; I
am confident that tons of meat are daily wasted in such
institutions throughout the country, which, if well employed, would
feed a great part of the starving poor of the United Kingdom. The
same system ought to be adopted in all the provincial towns; and,
if it was in existence, we should not have to deplore such
lamentable scenes which we had latterly to witness at Tooting,
where, no doubt, many were to blame; for, by the calculation I have
made, the allowance, though rather limited, was amply large enough
to allow for good provisions, and leave sufficient remuneration for
any reasonable and not covetous man. Why should not these poor
children be watched over, and made as comfortable in every respect
as the wish of those who pay to support them require? besides, it
has an effect upon after generations; for upon the food at the
period of growth depends the nature of the mind at a more advanced
age, as well as the stature of the man. Do we not evince our care
to objects of the brute creation, and feed, with the greatest
attention, the race-horse? compare him with others of his species
not so humanely treated, and note the difference: so it is with the
human race; and I might almost say the prosperity of a country
depends upon the food of its youth. You will perhaps think that I
am rather sharp in my remarks, and probably longer than is
required, but still it will be gratifying to both of us, should we
find that these remarks prove beneficial to such establishments as
above-mentioned; and it is only by giving notoriety to these
important details, and being positive in exposing the truth, that
we can be believed and followed, and you must not mind displeasing
the few, if you are to be useful to the many. Forever, &c.
HORTENSE.
LETTER No. IX
MY DEAR HORTENSE,--After the receipt of your last observations,
which, on first seeing, I thought too long, but after having read
them over again, I am convinced that I shall not be able to shorten
them; at all events, there is a great deal of truth in them, and,
as you justly say, they are the observations of a person who has
constantly studied domestic comfort and economy; I shall therefore
copy them in the journal just as you send them to me. Truly yours,
ELOISE.
LETTER No. X
MY DEAR ELOISE,--I am glad to hear that you will not alter any of
my last copy sent, because I assure you I wrote with a full
conviction that I was right, and from facts which experience alone
can engrave on the memory; but, however, we will now proceed: but I
think it will be necessary to alter our original intention, namely,
in order to save any confusion, to class all the receipts for the
dinner together, and thus form a large bill of fare, and follow, on
a small plan, what M. Soyer, of the Reform Club, has done on a
large scale, in his 'Gastronomic Regenerator,' by which the most
inexperienced hands may easily provide a large or small dinner
adapted for all classes, without committing a blunder, and thus
make a selection from soups, different dishes of fish, and an
innumerable number of removes; entrées, roasts, savory dishes,
vegetables, sweets, dessert, &c., and having chosen one or two of
each series, and, on referring to the receipt, an idea of their
cost, within a few pence of the market-price, may be gained.
Let me know, dear, by return of post, if you approve of my new
idea, as it is rather deviating from our original one; but observe,
that having so very distinctly given the Breakfast Receipts, and
also for Invalids, it will be more clearly understood than by
repeating the same over and over again, which would be unavoidable
if following our first proposition. Yours truly, in haste,
HORTENSE.
LETTER No. XI
MY DEAR HORTENSE,--Never were you inspired by a better idea
respecting your new plan; it is so clearly explained, that I fancy
our labor is over; but I must tell you that, on the receipt of
your last, I wrote to M. Soyer, to inquire if he would object to
our taking a few hints from his "Kitchen at Home," which forms the
last part of his work. His answer was immediate, short, and as
follows:
"DEAR MADAM,--It would be entirely deviating from the preface of my
'Gastronomic Regenerator' to refuse you anything in my power; and
as your simple demand lies within that scope, you are quite welcome
to take a few hints, if you require them for your little work, from
the part entitled 'My Kitchen at Home.'
"Wishing your exertions may be well appreciated, I am, dear madam,
most sincerely, your humble and devoted,
"Reform Club.
A. SOYER."
As you have his book, you, no doubt, know to which part he alludes.
He says, in his preface, that he has made it a rule never to refuse
ladies anything in his power; so far he has kept his word with us:
so you may, dearest, if you require, make use of his offer. I shall
expect, by the next post, the commencement of the Dinner Receipts,
which I am confident you will make as simple and as short as
possible. With kindest regards, yours,
ELOISE.
_Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Braising, Frying, Sautéing,
Broiling._
ROASTING being the most general in use, we will first describe it,
although not that which was first put in practice in cooking, it being
evidently an improvement on broiling: we can easily understand how, in
the early primitive times, man, finding that his food got covered with
the ashes with which he cooked his meat, he would invent a species of
grate upon which he could raise the fire, and cook his meat before it:
this primitive mode of cooking has lasted, in many countries, up to the
present day, and even in London to within a few years; for I remember
seeing, in the old Goldsmith's Hall, a fire-place, consisting of stages,
on which was laid the wood, and when the meat, &c., was spitted and
arranged before it, the wood was lighted, and a man turned the spits.
(It was, no doubt, from arranging the wood thus in stages that the name
of range was derived.) In many noblemen's castles and ecclesiastical
establishments, dogs were kept to turn the spit, from whence we have
those of the name of turnspit; whilst in others, where there happened to
be a person of a mechanical turn of mind, they applied a water-wheel to
the purpose, and the water from it formed a stream in the kitchen, which
served as a reservoir for live fish. Different opinions exist as to the
mode and time required for roasting, but this must all depend upon the
nature of the fire and the meat. In the Receipts will be found the time
which each requires. My plan is to make up as large a fire as the nature
of the grate will allow, because I can place my joint near or not, as
may be required, and thus obtain every degree of heat.
BAKING is a branch of the art of cooking which, although one of the
oldest, is the least understood. (As I shall have to refer to this
subject again, I will give the reason why in a future letter.) It is
performed in various kinds of air-tight chambers, called ovens, the best
of which have the same form as in the time of the Egyptians. Previous to
the art of baking being practised, boiled pulse and corn were the food
of the people; even Rome contained no bakers until near six hundred
years after it was founded. Of late years, great improvements have been
made in the construction of ovens for baking of meat, called roasting
ovens, which cause great economy in the expenditure of fuel; and, in
large public establishments, where a number of the same kind of joints
are required, it is the best plan of cooking. In the Receipts will be
found the time required by each for baking, but, in a general way, for
meat, hot ovens are the best; for poultry, not so hot as meat; and
pastry, according to its kind. In using dishes or utensils for the oven,
they ought, if of metal, to be of galvanized iron, and separate ones for
meat and fish.
BOILING is the next branch of the art which is of the most importance
and appears the most simple, yet, at the same time, the most difficult,
and is a subject upon which, if I were to dilate, would occupy a good
quarto volume; it is one of those easy things which it is supposed
everybody can do, and therefore no attention is paid to it, and it is
generally done badly. According to the way in which it is done, meat may
be rendered hard and tough or tender, lose or retain its flavor or
nourishment; great difference of opinion exists amongst medical men
which are the easiest of digestion--roasted or boiled meats. I say it is
a subject quite impossible to decide, as it must depend upon the
different constitutions and climate; for we might as well say that the
food of the Esquimaux is adapted for the native of Italy.
STEWING ought to be the best understood, on account of its economy;
pieces of coarse meat, subjected to stewing, if properly done, become
tender, as the gelatinous parts become partly dissolved; it should be
done slowly, the pan partly uncovered, and frequently skimmed. Great
cleanliness should be observed in all the vessels used for stewing.
BRAISING is the next and most important part of the art of cooking, and,
like the sauté, belongs entirely to the French school, from whom it
takes its name, _braise_ being the remains of wood burnt in the oven, or
live charcoal: and as this plan of cookery requires the action of the
fire under and over the braising-pan, which is air-tight, in order that
the aromatic flavor arising from its contents may be imbibed by the meat
or poultry, and give it that succulence so much esteemed by epicures.
The braise is put on the cover, which, in some cases, is made deep on
purpose to hold it. Its origin is stated to be owing to a gastronomic
society which was formerly in existence in Paris, whose object was to
benefit and improve the art of cookery, and who offered a reward of a
silver gridiron to any culinary artist who would discover a new mode of
dressing a turkey. Although a gridiron was, no doubt, intended to be
used, yet a young artist named La Gacque, warmed by the offer, directed
his imagination to quite a different mode, and used the pan instead of
the gridiron, and thus composed the braise, which was unanimously
approved of by that scientific, gastronomic, and epicurean body, who
awarded him the prize. The chief art in braising is to do it slowly,
taking care that the ingredients are well-proportioned, receipts for
which will be found in their proper place.