piece of bread, previously well dried and lightly toasted before
the fire, and you could scarcely tell the difference from rusks;
and you must observe, that people in a country village cannot
always supply themselves with everything in the way of luxury; but
look at the greater part of those country urchins,--are they not a
real picture of health? for, after all, nothing is more
advantageous to a delicate child than country air and country food.
When Mr. B. and myself were staying at Boulogne for a few weeks, I
was astonished to hear that everybody used to put their children
out to nurse. I was so surprised, that I made every inquiry, and
found it literally true, that even respectable tradespeople sent
their children a mile or two in the country, some to the houses of
very poor people: I cannot say that I approve of such a style of
bringing up infants, but even there they seem as healthy and as
joyful as possible. I also found there something to be learned, and
that was, how to make French pap, which I think very nutritious,
but which I considered at the time rather heavy for our climate;
but having afterwards made a trial of it upon our little Henry, I
found him doing so extremely well, that I continued feeding him
upon it for nearly eight months, until he was old enough to eat
other food. The following is the receipt:
47.--Put a tablespoonful of flour into a pap saucepan, to which add by
degrees two gills of milk, mixing it into a very smooth batter with a
wooden spoon; place the saucepan upon the fire, let it boil ten minutes,
keeping it stirred the whole time, or it is liable to burn or become
brown, then add about half an ounce of sugar and a little salt, put it
into a basin, and it is ready for use. A little butter is also very good
in it.
You will observe, that it is more difficult and troublesome to make
than our pap; but when used to it, you will expend no more time
over it; and, as the French people say, cooking is all pleasure and
no trouble. But what convinces me that it is more palatable and
nutritious is, that I have seen a very robust man make a hearty
dinner of two plates of it by introducing bread in it. I have no
doubt that our own hasty pudding was taken from it, for the use of
children of three or four years old, being thought too heavy for
infants. These long details may appear rather insignificant and
tedious to you, but I leave them to your good judgment, begging of
you to curtail my remarks should you think proper; but, although
you may consider that every person is acquainted with these
domestic habits, you would find upon inquiry that very many persons
neglect them almost entirely. Having written thus much upon the
food of infants, we must next consider the proper diet for children
of twelve months old, commencing with bread and milk.
48.--For which, cut about two ounces of any white bread into small thin
slices, which put into a small basin or a large breakfast cup, in a
little saucepan (only used for that purpose) have half a pint of milk,
which, when upon the point of boiling, pour over the bread; cover the
cup over five minutes, and it is ready for use.
I much prefer this method to that of boiling the bread and milk
together. In first commencing to feed a child upon the above, I
always added a little sugar, which I withdrew by degrees, as I do
not like to accustom children to too much sweets, as it inclines
them when a little older to be always wanting or eating sweet
stuff, which often spoils the best set of teeth; and here let me
remark, that the finest fortune you can give to your children is
health, and as loving mothers, whilst we have them under our
control, it is our duty to study their little comforts, and direct
their first steps in life in the road of happiness.
49. _Porridge._--When children are delicate, porridge is often
preferable to bread and milk. Put two tablespoonfuls of Scotch grits or
oatmeal in the milk saucepan, which moisten with half a pint of milk;
let it boil ten minutes, keeping well stirred, add a small piece of
butter and a little sugar, and it is ready for use.
When my children were about eighteen months or two years old, I
used to give them a little tender meat, such as boiled mutton, and
broth, but in very small quantities, keeping still for the general
food the bread and milk and porridge; but now they are old enough
to eat anything wholesome (one being nine and the other ten years
of age), their meals are composed thus:
50.--Bread and milk for breakfast at eight; the dinner at one, which was
composed as follows throughout the week: roast mutton and apple pudding,
roast beef and currant pudding, baked apples; boiled mutton with
turnips, after which rice or vermicelli pudding; occasionally a little
salt beef, with suet dumplings, plain and with currants in them, or
pease pudding; or if unwell, a little veal or chicken-broth, or beef-tea
(the receipts for which will be found in the series entitled Comforts
for Invalids).
When in business, the first three years we could not afford to keep
a nursery, in fact, we had no room to spare; the children then used
to dine with us at one, but at a side-table with their nurse.
51.--They then had a little plain meat, cut small in their plates, with
potatoes, pieces of bread, and gravy, after which, three times a week,
plain rice, bread, or other plain pudding, or rhubarb or apple tart;
and, at five o'clock, their bread and milk again, previous to going to
bed.
But if for people who could afford it, I should recommend the
following diet-table, for nurserymaid and all:
52.--First, about two pounds of mutton well-cooked, but with the real
gravy of the meat in it, which will require about one hour before a
moderate fire, dredge it ten minutes before being done; when taken up
and in the dish, sprinkle a little salt over the meat, and pour over
three or four spoonfuls of hot water to make a little light gravy.
Many persons will, I am aware, quite disapprove of this system of
washing the meat: they would serve it as if it were for full-grown
people, but you well know what would do for children as well as
I--plain, simple, and wholesome food; I always carried out this
system, and I now make my cook do the same.
53.--Then the next day I would give them a small piece of mutton, plain
boiled, with turnips, and apple tart; or a few slices of roast beef, or
a small piece roasted on purpose, after which a very plain currant
pudding; or, occasionally, a little pickled pork, with pease pudding, or
roast pork, with baked apples, and now and then a little salt beef, but
very well boiled, with suet dumplings, and occasionally, for change,
either bread, vermicelli, or tapioca puddings; in case of illness, and
with the approbation of the doctor, veal, mutton, or chicken-broth,
sago, gruel, panada, &c., for which refer to the receipts for invalids.
Now the more I write the more I am convinced that, for the method
of preparing certain articles for the children's dinners, we must
refer to the kitchen department of receipts and receipts for
invalids, especially as regards broth, meat, puddings, &c., or
otherwise we should have so many repetitions; so that it would be
better, upon the completion of the journal, to make references,
either by numbers of receipt or page; it will be more intelligible,
and less confused.
Many people would, perhaps, imagine that there is too much variety
of food for children; but it is quite the contrary, for change of
food is to the stomach what change of air is to the general health,
but, of course, with children, those changes must be effected with
judgment, and their food administered in smaller quantities; but
you must observe when children are well brought up with regard to
their meals, they possess extraordinary organs of digestion, the
proof of which is that they require feeding oftener than a
full-grown person, and never appear to be tired of eating, thus, of
course, they do not require such quantities at a time. Having here
terminated my remarks upon the Nursery, I shall leave this scene of
romp and confusion, to walk on tip-toe to the sick-room door, and
carefully enter, without noise, into this mournful abode of human
suffering and captivity, in hopes that, by watching over their
diet, my small efforts may improve their comforts, which, by being
properly managed, may assist in their restoration to health. I
shall, therefore, proceed to give some receipts, entitled Comforts
for Invalids.
Nothing is to me more painful than to see any food ill-prepared for
sick people, where the sense of taste is partially gone; everything
ordered by the doctors as food, should be cooked in the greatest
perfection, especially as everything they require is so very simple
and easily done, that it is unpardonable to do it badly, although I
am sorry to say that it is too often the case, even in many of our
first hospitals and other public establishments, where they have
provisions in abundance, and of the first quality.
Perhaps you may fancy I am too severe upon that delicate subject,
but I can assure you that I have for years been in the habit of
visiting some of these institutions for the sick, and can therefore
speak with confidence. I have grieved often to see it, and have
wished that they would follow a system I would lay down, but there
are some people who would not change their style, however bad, for
a better one, for the world.
Now I must here claim all your intelligence, for pointing out those
receipts the accomplishing of which is most plain, and will insure
success to those who may try to do them, and cause them to persuade
others to follow their example. I therefore inclose the following.
Yours, &c.
HORTENSE.
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS.
54. _Meat for Invalids._--The best meat as food for invalids is, in
fact, that which is principally used, mutton and beef, lamb, if not too
young (sweetbreads, I consider, ought oftener to be introduced), and
calves' feet or head, scalded and boiled until tender, are very
nutritious; chickens, pigeons, partridges, are also very inviting. All
the above-mentioned articles are easy of digestion, excepting perhaps
the beef, which may require to be gently stewed until tender, if for a
delicate stomach just ordered to take meat after a serious fit of
illness.
55. _Plain Mutton Broth for Invalids._--Get one pound of scrag of
mutton, break the bone with a chopper, without separating the meat, then
put it into a stewpan with three pints of water and a salt-spoonful of
salt; boil gently two hours, carefully removing all the scum and fat,
which is easily done by allowing it to simmer slowly by the side of the
fire; it will be by that time reduced to about one quart, and is then
ready to serve. This broth must not be expected to drink very palatable,
being deprived of vegetables and seasoning, being in fact more like a
beverage than a soup: at the commencement of convalescence more strength
may be given if ordered by the doctor, by reducing the original quantity
to one pint. This broth is often administered by a spoonful only at a
time.
56. _Seasoned Mutton Broth._--Put the same quantity of mutton and water
into your stewpan, add double the quantity of salt, and a quarter ditto
brown sugar, quarter of a middle-sized onion, very little celery, and
one ounce of turnip; set it upon the fire, and when beginning to boil
draw it to the side; let it simmer gently two hours; skim off all the
scum and fat, and pass it through a sieve, and use it when required.
When finished, there ought to remain about a quart of broth; but if by
neglect it has boiled too fast, add more water, and set to boil for a
quarter of an hour longer. If the patient is getting better, his medical
man will probably order him to eat a little of the meat, or even
turnips, in which case serve them on a plate separately; should the meat
not be required by the patient, it is very excellent for a healthy
person, with a few spoonfuls of onions or caper sauce, or even plain. If
pearl-barley is required to be taken with the broth, put a tablespoonful
of it in with the water when you first put it upon the fire, the whole
will then be done together; if the barley is to be eaten by the patient,
take out the meat and vegetables, and skim off every spot of grease; but
if the barley is not required, pass the broth, as before, through a
sieve.
57. _Mutton Broth (with variations). With Vermicelli._--Having made your
broth, and passed it through a sieve, as before, put the meat and
vegetables upon a plate, and the broth back into the same stewpan; when
boiling, if about a quart, add one or two tablespoonfuls of vermicelli,
depending upon the strength of the patient's stomach; ten minutes'
boiling will be sufficient to cook vermicelli.
58. _With Rice._--One spoonful of best rice in the stewpan, with mutton
and water the same as the barley, as it is better for the rice to be in
pulp than underdone.
59. _With Semoulina._--Semoulina is very delicate and glutinous, and I
am quite confident that the faculty would approve of it after a trial or
two; it is good in any kind of broth or milk for invalids, of very easy
digestion, and having also the advantage of being tolerably cheap and
quickly cooked; proceed as directed for vermicelli.
60. _With Arrow-root._--After having passed your broth, place it again
into the stewpan to boil; when boiling, put two teaspoonfuls of
arrow-root into a cup, which mix smoothly with a gill of cold broth, or
half ditto of water; then pour it into your boiling broth, which keep
stirring with a spoon; let it simmer ten minutes, and it is ready for
use.
61. _Veal Broth (French method)._--The following is much recommended by
French physicians:--Put one pound of veal from knuckle, with but very
little of the bone, into a stewpan with three pints of water and a
salt-spoonful of salt, place it over the fire to boil; when boiling,
take off all the scum; then add a small cabbage-lettuce and a few sprigs
of chervil, if handy; let simmer slowly for two hours, it will then be
reduced to about a quart; pass it through a sieve, letting the meat
drain, and it is ready to serve.
62. _Another way, more palatable._--Take the same quantity of veal as
before, which cut into small dice (as you should cut all meat if
possible), put it into the stewpan, with a small pat of butter, half an
onion, about the same quantity of carrot and turnip, a little celery,
and a teaspoonful of salt; set the stewpan upon the fire, keeping the
contents stirred, for about ten minutes, until the bottom of the stewpan
is covered with a whitish glaze, then add three pints of hot water; let
the whole simmer one hour at the corner of the fire, skim well, pass it
through a sieve, and use when required. This broth is most palatable and
very digestible, but of course only to be given to the convalescent; it
may be served with vermicelli, rice, arrow-root, and semoulina, as
directed for mutton broth.
63. _Another very Refreshing and Strengthening Veal Broth._--Put two
pounds of knuckle of veal into a stewpan, with a calf's foot split, and
the bone taken out and chopped up, add three quarts of water, a
good-sized onion, one leek, a piece of parsnip, and two salt-spoonfuls
of salt (if allowed by the doctor, if not, the salt must be omitted),
set it upon the fire, and when beginning to boil, skim, and let it
simmer at the corner of the fire four hours; twenty minutes before
passing, again skim off all the fat, and add ten large leaves of
sorrel, or twenty small, one cabbage-lettuce, and a handful of chervil,
and when done pass it through a sieve, when it is ready for use. This
broth is very cooling and nutritious when taken cold, as it is then
quite a jelly; vermicelli, rice, &c., may be added when served hot, and
the veal and calf's foot is very excellent, eaten with parsley-and-butter
or sharp sauce; but should the patient require any, it must be quite
plain, with a little of the broth and only the gelatinous part of the
foot.
The above also makes an excellent dinner soup, and if put in a cool
place, would keep a week in winter and three days in summer.
64. _Soyer's new way of making Beef Tea._--Cut a pound of solid beef
into very small dice, which put into a stewpan, with a small pat of
butter, a clove, two button onions, and a salt-spoonful of salt, stir
the meat round over the fire for a few minutes, until it produces a thin
gravy, then add a quart of water, and let it simmer at the corner of the
fire for half an hour, skimming off every particle of fat, when done
pass through a sieve. I have always had a great objection to passing
broth through a cloth, as it frequently quite spoils its flavor.
The same, if wanted plain, is done by merely omitting the vegetables,
salt, and clove; the butter cannot be objectionable, as it is taken out
in skimming, pearl-barley, vermicelli, rice, &c., may be served in it if
required.
65. _Real Essence of Beef._--Take one pound of solid beef from the rump,
a steak would be the best, cut it into thin slices, which lay upon a
thin trencher, and scrape quite fine with a large and sharp knife (as
quickly as possible, or the juice of the meat would partially soak into
the wood, your meat thus losing much of its strengthening quality), when
like sausage-meat put it into a stewpan or saucepan, and stir over the
fire five or ten minutes, until thoroughly warmed through, then add a
pint of water, cover the stewpan as tightly as possible, and let it
remain close to the fire or in a warm oven for twenty minutes, then pass
it through a sieve, pressing the meat with a spoon to extract all the
essence.
I beg to observe that here you have the real juice of the meat; but if
wanted stronger, put only half instead of one pint of water; seasoning
may be introduced, that is, a little salt, sugar, and cloves, but no
vegetables, as they would not have time to cook, thus leaving a raw, bad
flavor.
66. _Pure Osmazome, or Essence of Meat._--Take two pounds of the flesh
of any animal or bird (the older the better for obtaining the true
flavor), as free from sinew as possible, and mince it well; place it in
a Florence oil-flask, and cork it; put this in a saucepan filled with
cold water, leaving the neck uncovered; place it on the side of the fire
until the water arrives at 160° Fahr., at which temperature it must
remain for twenty minutes; then remove it, and strain the contents
through a tammie, pressing the meat gently with a spoon; should it
require to be kept for some time, put the liquor in a basin or cup,
which place in the saucepan; subject it to a boiling heat until it is
reduced to a consistency like treacle, removing the scum; this, when
cold, will become solid, and will keep for any number of years. Osmazome
is known under various names in different cookery books, as "fumet,
essence," &c., but which are obtained in a different way, which causes
the gelatine to be produced with the osmazome; but, by the above plan,
it is left in the meat, and the osmazome, with a small quantity of the
albumen, is extracted, and the albumen is afterwards removed as the
scum.
67. _Chicken Broth._--Put half a raw chicken into a stewpan, with a
quart of water, a little leek and celery, with a salt-spoonful of salt,
and a few sprigs of parsley (if allowed), set the stewpan upon the fire;
when boiling, skim well, and let simmer upon the corner for one hour;
pass it through a sieve, and it is ready for use.
The chicken would eat very nice with a little maître d'hôtel sauce, or
any other from that series would do for the parlor, that is, when the
patient is not allowed to eat it.
For a change, chicken-broth in the following way is very nutritious;
that is, after having passed the broth through a sieve, pour it back
again into the stewpan, which place over the fire; moisten a teaspoonful
of flour in a cup with a little cold broth or water, and when quite
smooth pour it into the broth whilst boiling, stirring quickly, let
simmer a quarter of an hour, and it is ready. Mutton or veal-broth may
also be varied the same.
68. _Eel Broth, very strengthening._--Take a small eel, which skin as
described, and wash well, then cut into slices, which put into a small
saucepan, just covered with water, add a little salt, a few sprigs of
parsley, two button onions, and a clove; let it simmer very gently until
the eels are tender, when skim off all the fat, pass the broth through a
very fine sieve into a cup: it is then ready to serve when required, but
a spoonful only should be taken at a time.
A patient is sometimes allowed to take part of the fish, which being so
much boiled, constitutes a lighter food than eels are in general; a
little melted butter and parsley might be served with them.
69. _Lait de Poule, French remedy for colds._--May be made from any of
the foregoing broths, and for colds is excellent. Break a fresh egg,
separate the white from the yolk, put the yolk in a basin, with a
quarter of a gill of good cream or milk, which mix well with a spoon,
have half a pint of broth boiling, which pour gradually over the egg and
cream, mixing it (as you pour the broth) with a wooden spoon; it is then
ready, and ought to be taken when going to bed, if only for a cold.
70. _Sweet Lait de Poule._--This is also reckoned very good for a cold.
Put two yolks of eggs into a cup, with two teaspoonfuls of pounded
sugar, a few drops of orange-flower water, or the eighth part of the
rind of a fresh lemon grated, beat them well together for ten minutes,
then pour boiling water gradually over, keeping it stirred, until the
cup is nearly full. Drink this very hot when in bed; I can strongly
recommend it from experience.
71. _Riz au Lait, or Rice Milk_, is a very favorite food, or soup; in
France many persons make their suppers from it, even when in a state of
perfect health. Proceed as follows: wash a tablespoonful of good rice
in water, which drain and put into a stewpan, with a pint of milk, upon
the fire, and when boiling, place it at the corner to simmer, until the
rice is quite tender, but for invalids, must be in a pulp; sweeten with
a little sugar, and it is quite ready.
72. _Rice Milk seasoned._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but when the
rice is quite tender add an ounce of butter, two teaspoonfuls of sugar,
and a little salt, stir well together, and it is then ready; this must
neither be too thick nor too thin, but about the thickness of well-made
gruel; in France they always add a few drops of orange-flower water, but
that depends upon taste. These two last are very nutritious, especially
after a long illness.
73. _Vermicelli au Lait._--Boil a pint of milk, and when boiling add
sufficient vermicelli to make it about the thickness of the last
article; it may be served quite plain if required, or seasoned as for
the riz au lait, but omitting the orange-flower water.
74. _Semoulina au Lait._--Boil a pint of milk, and when boiling add a
tablespoonful of semoulina, stirring it gently, to prevent its becoming
lumpy; let it simmer twenty minutes, and serve either plain or seasoned,
as for the riz au lait.
75. _Tapioca au Lait._--Proceed exactly as in the last, but it will
require rather longer to simmer before the tapioca is tender; and, by
way of change, add a little grated lemon-peel, or a glass of white wine,
if allowed by the doctor, or season as for the last.
76. _Arrow-root._--Put two teaspoonfuls of arrow-root, which mix
gradually with enough water or milk, stirring it with a spoon, let it
boil a few minutes, and if made with milk, add only a little butter,
sugar, and salt, or serve plain; but if made with water, add the eighth
part of the rind of a fresh lemon to boil with it; when done add a glass
of port or sherry, sugar, a little salt, and a small piece of butter,
unless prohibited.
77. _Gruel._--Put two tablespoonfuls of oatmeal or prepared groats into
a stewpan, and by degrees add a pint of water, mixing smoothly with a
wooden spoon, place it upon the fire, keeping it well stirred, until it
has boiled a couple of minutes, when pour it into a basin, add half a
salt-spoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of brown sugar, and two ounces
of butter, the latter especially, if for a cold in the chest, even more
than that quantity, if the stomach is strong enough to bear it.