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THE
MODERN HOUSEWIFE
OR,
MÉNAGÈRE.
COMPRISING
NEARLY ONE THOUSAND RECEIPTS,
FOR THE ECONOMIC AND JUDICIOUS
PREPARATION OF EVERY MEAL OF THE DAY,
WITH THOSE OF
THE NURSERY AND SICK ROOM,
AND MINUTE DIRECTIONS FOR FAMILY MANAGEMENT
IN ALL ITS BRANCHES.
Illustrated with Engravings.
BY
ALEXIS SOYER,
AUTHOR OF "THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR."
EDITED BY AN AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPER.
NEW YORK:
D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 200 BROADWAY.
PHILADELPHIA: G. S. APPLETON, 146 CHESNUT ST.
1850.
ENTERED, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1849, by
D. APPLETON & COMPANY,
in the Clerk's Office of the District Court for the Southern District
of New-York.
PREFACE BY THE EDITOR.
In adapting M. Soyer's admirable receipt book to the use of American
families, I have not presumed to amend, or attempted to improve upon the
text of so accomplished a master of the art, which may with entire
propriety be called the "preservative of all arts." All that I have
ventured to do has been to make a verbal correction here and there,
necessary to render the meaning of the author more plain; to erase
certain directions for cooking different kinds of game and fish unknown
in the new world; and to omit the purely local information, and scraps
of history, which only increased the cost and bulk of the book, without,
in any way, adding to its value.
Except in one instance, nothing has been added; for the object in
republishing the MENAGÈRE, was to furnish a new and valuable work on the
preparation of food, which should contain important receipts hitherto
unknown. Every country must have its indigenous dishes, and it is to be
presumed that every American housekeeper likely to profit by M. Soyer's
receipts, will need no instruction in the art of preparing the many
excellent dishes peculiar to the United States.
It is a vulgar error to suppose that French cookery is more costly and
highly flavored than English; an examination of the MENAGÈRE will
abundantly prove that the reverse is the fact, and that M. Soyer's
system, which has rendered him famous in Europe, is not only simple and
economical, but the best adapted to insuring the enjoyment of health,
the elevation of the mental faculties, and converting the daily
necessity of eating into a source of daily enjoyment. M. Soyer's great
work, THE GASTRONOMIC REGENERATOR, was prepared for the highest classes
of English society, and public festivals; but the MENAGÈRE is adapted to
the wants and habits of the middle classes, and, as presented in the
present edition, calculated for the use of the great bulk of American
families.
M. Soyer is the good genius of the kitchen; although he is the renowned
_chef_ of one of the most sumptuous of the London Club Houses, and the
pet of aristocratic feeders, he has labored continually to elevate the
mind, and better the condition of the poor by instructing them in the
art of obtaining the greatest amount of nourishment and enjoyment from
their food. The dietetic maxims and culinary receipts of M. Soyer are
not less needed in the United States than in England; but for different
reasons. Happily, our countrymen do not suffer for lack of raw
materials, so much as for lack of cooks; and, in the Modern Housewife of
M. Soyer, our housekeepers will find a reliable guide and an invaluable
friend.
_New York, December, 1849._
CONTENTS.
PAGE
INTRODUCTION,
DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B---- AND MRS. L----, HER FRIEND
AND VISITOR, 1
LETTER NO. I., 5
LETTER NO. II., 6
BREAKFASTS, 7
FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS, 8
LETTER NO. III., 26
EARLY LUNCHEONS, 27
LETTER NO. IV., 27
THE NURSERY DINNER, 28
LETTER NO. V., ib.
COMFORTS FOR INVALIDS, 33
PUDDINGS FOR INVALIDS, 47
POULTRY FOR INVALIDS, 53
CULINARY CORRESPONDENCE, 55
LETTER NO. VI., ib.
LETTER NO. VII., 56
LETTER NO. VIII., 57
LETTER NO. IX., 58
LETTER NO. X., ib.
LETTER NO. XI., ib.
ROASTING, 59
BAKING, BOILING, STEWING, BRAISING, 60
FRYING, 61
SAUTEING, 62
BROILING, 63
SAUCES, 64
SOUPS, 75
FISH, 93
FISH SAUCES, 111
REMOVES, 117
LETTER NO. XII., 120
POULTRY, 143
FLANCS, 158
ENTRÉES, OR MADE DISHES, 158
LETTER NO. XIII., 178
LETTER NO. XIV., 181
DISHES WITH THE REMAINS OF LAMB, 184
EGGS, 216
GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES, 219
ENTRIES OF GAME, 220
ROASTS--SECOND COURSE, 227
SAVORY DISHES 234
LETTER NO. XV., 244
SHELL-FISH, 250
VEGETABLES, 253
OF DIFFERENT SORTS OF PASTRY, 268
JELLIES, 286
PUDDINGS IN MOULDS, 291
PUDDINGS BOILED IN CLOTHS, 293
PLAIN BAKED PUDDINGS IN DISHES, 294
REMOVES--SECOND COURSE, 296
SOUFFLE, 299
DESSERT, 305
LETTER NO. XVI., ib.
COMPOTE, 307
COMPOTES OF FRUIT SIMPLIFIED, 310
SALADS OF VARIOUS FRUITS, 321
LETTER NO. XVII., 327
LETTER NO. XVIII., 332
BEVERAGES FOR EVENING PARTIES, ib.
LETTER NO. XIX., 334
CONVERSATION ON HOUSEHOLD AFFAIRS, 336
BILLS OF FARE, 339
LETTER NO. XX.--A NEW ALIMENT, 345
CARVING, 346
LETTER NO. XXI.--THE SEPTUAGENARIAN EPICURE, 348
INDEX, 351
INTRODUCTION.
In the following gossipping conversation between Mrs. B---- and
Mrs. L----, and in the two letters which follow, M. Soyer explains
the motive of the work; and, in a natural manner introduces the
subject.--ED.
DIALOGUE BETWEEN MRS. B---- AND MRS. L----, HER FRIEND AND VISITOR.
_Mrs. L._ I have now, my dear Mrs. B., been nearly a fortnight at your
delightful Villa, and I must say, with all truth, that I never fared
better in my life, yet I am considered somewhat of an epicure, as is
likewise my husband; but, of course, our means being rather limited, we
are obliged to live accordingly.
_Mrs. B._ Well, so must we; and I assure you that, during the first few
years of our marriage, our pecuniary resources were but small, but even
then I managed my kitchen and housekeeping at so moderate an expense
compared with some of our neighbors, who lived more expensively, but not
so well as we did, that, when any of them dined with us, they flattered
me with the appellation of the "Model Housekeeper," and admired the
comforts of our table, but would leave with the impression that I must
be the most extravagant of wives. Now, believe me, I have always prided
myself, whether having to provide for a ceremonious party or dining by
ourselves, to have everything properly done and served, that, if any
friends should come in by accident or on business, they were generally
well pleased with our humble hospitality, and that without extravagance,
as my husband is well convinced; for when we dine with any acquaintance
of ours he is very eager to persuade them to adopt my system of
management; for though he is no great judge of what is called the
highest style of cookery, yet he does not like to live badly at any
time; as he very justly says, it matters not how simple the food,--a
chop, steak, or a plain boiled or roast joint, but let it be of good
quality and properly cooked, and every one who partakes of it will enjoy
it.
_Mrs. L._ Nothing more true!
_Mrs. B._ But since you talk of limited income and economy, let me
relate to you a conversation which occurred a few years ago between Mr.
B. and a friend of his, who declared to him that his income would never
allow him to live in such luxury, which he called a comfortable
extravagance.
"Extravagance!" exclaimed Mr. B., "if you have a few minutes to spare, I
will convince you of the contrary, and prove to you that such an
expression is very unjust, if applied to my wife's management. Now, to
begin; what sum should you suppose would cover our annual housekeeping
expenditure, living as we do, in a style of which you so much approve,
but consider so extravagant? there are ten of us in family, viz., myself
and wife, three children, two female servants, and three young men
employed in my business, and including our usual Christmas party, which,
of course you know, (having participated in the last two), besides two
separate birthday parties of twenty each, and three juvenile
petits-soupers and dances for the children upon their natal
anniversaries, also a friend dropping in occasionally, which is never
less than once or twice a-week."--"Well, I do not know," answered our
friend; "but having nearly the same number to provide for, and in a more
humble way, my expenses for housekeeping are never less than £---- per
annum."--"Less than what?" exclaimed Mr. B.; "why, my dear friend, you
must be mistaken;" at the same time ringing the bell." I wish I were,
with all my heart," was the reply, as the servant entered the room;
"Jane," said Mr. B., "ask your mistress to step this way for a few
minutes; I wish to look at her housekeeping book." But being busy at the
time in the kitchen, I sent up a key for him to get it, which happened
to be a wrong one, but, upon discovering the mistake, sent up the right
one with an apology for not coming myself, as I was superintending the
cooking of some veal broth, which the doctor had ordered for our poor
little Henry, who was ill at the time. "Well," said his friend, "there
is a wife for you; I must confess mine can hardly find the way to the
kitchen stairs." "Now!" said my husband, opening my desk, and, taking up
my book, he showed him the last year's expenditure, which was £----.
"No! no! that is impossible," replied the other. "But," said Mr B.,
"there it is in black and white." "Why, good heavens!" exclaimed he,
"without giving so many parties, and also two less in family, my
expenditure is certainly greater." To which Mr. B. replied, "So I should
imagine from the style in which I saw your table provided the few days
when we were on a visit to your house; therefore I am not in the least
astonished. Here, however, is the account for the closing year just made
up to the 28th December, 1848. Let us see what it amounts to, probably
to £50 or £60 more." "So, so," replied the other, "that is an
increase;"--"Let it be so," said Mr. B.; "but you must remember that we
are twelve months older, and as our business increases, so do we
increase our comforts; and this year Mrs. B., with the children, had a
pretty little house at Ramsgate for two months, which will account for
the greater part of it."
_Mrs. L._ But, my dear Mrs. B., I am as much astonished as your friend
could possibly have been. I should, however, have liked you to explain
the matter; but here comes your husband, who will probably initiate me
in your culinary secrets.
Good morning, my dear Mr. B. I have been talking to Mrs. B. about her
system of housekeeping, who was relating to me a conversation you had
with a gentleman, who was surprised with its economy. I am also
surprised, and should like to take a few leaves out of your most
excellent book, if you will allow me.
_Mr. B._ Certainly, my dear madam; in my wife, without flattering her
too much, you see almost an accomplished woman (in hearing such praise,
Mrs. B. retired, saying, "How foolish you talk, Richard"); she speaks
two or three different languages tolerably well, and, as an amateur, is
rather proficient in music, but her parents, very wisely considering
household knowledge to be of the greater importance, made her first
acquainted with the keys of the store-room before those of the piano;
that is the only secret, dear madam; and this is the explanation that I
gave to my friend, who thought it a good jest and one of truth. I told
him to do the same by his two daughters, which would not only make them
more happy through life, but transmit that happiness to their posterity,
by setting an example worthy of being followed. I always say, give me a
domesticated wife, and with my industry I would not change my position
for a kingdom; "Very true, very true," was my friend's answer, and we
then parted.
I have never seen him since nor his wife, who was probably offended at
the economical propositions of her husband; for nothing, you are well
aware, is more common than for people to be offended when told the truth
respecting themselves; or perhaps she was too advanced in years to think
of changing her ideas of housekeeping.
I see, my dear Mrs. L., the Brougham is waiting at the gate to convey
you to the railway; allow me to see you safe to the station; you will
not have many minutes to spare, for the train will shortly be up.
About an hour after the above conversation, Mrs. L. was seen entering
her cottage at Oatlands, fully resolved to follow as closely as possible
the economic management of Mrs. B.; but a little reflection soon made
her perceive that she possessed only the theory, and was sadly deficient
in the practice: she then determined to beg of her friend a few receipts
in writing, and immediately dispatched the following letter:--
_From Mrs. L--- to Mrs. B----._
Oatlands Cottage; Jan. 1st, 1849.
MY DEAR HORTENSE,--Upon my arrival at home, I am happy to say that
I found all quite well, and delighted to see me, after (to them) so
long an absence as a fortnight, which my husband was gallant enough
to say appeared months; but to myself the time appeared to pass
very swiftly; for, indeed, every day I felt so much more interested
in watching closely how well you managed your household affairs,
that, believe me, you have quite spoiled me, especially with your
recherché style of cookery, which even now I cannot make out how
you could do it at such moderate expense: and, apropos of cooking,
Mr. L., expecting me home to dinner, had, I have no doubt, a long
interview and discussion with Cook respecting the bill of fare.
"Well, sir," I will suppose she said, "what can be better than a
fine fat goose, stuffed with sage and ingyons; we have a very fine
'un hanging in the larder." (You must observe, dear, that my cook
is plain in every way.) "A very excellent notion that, Cook;
nothing can be better than a good goose;" was no doubt, my
husband's answer, who, although very fond of a good dinner, cannot
endure the trouble of ordering it.
Well, then, here I am in my little drawing-room (the window
slightly open), enjoying the fresh country air, which seems to have
been amalgamated with a strong aroma from the aforesaid goose,
especially the sage and onions; and I am almost certain that the
inseparable applesauce is burnt or upset on the stove, from the
brown smoke now ascending from the grating over the kitchen window.
This style is now to me quite unbearable, and I mean to have quite
a reform in my little establishment, and first of all to bring up
my daughter in the way recommended by Mr. B. to his friend, to make
her more domesticated than I am myself, as I begin to perceive that
a knowledge of household affairs is as much required as
intellectual education; and, for my part, I have come to the
determination of adopting your system of management as closely as
possible; but first, you must know, that, without your scientific
advice, it will be totally impossible; therefore I beg to propose
(if you can afford the time) that you will, by writing, give me the
description how you lay out your breakfast-table, with the addition
of a few receipts for the making of rolls and the other breakfast
bread, which I so much enjoyed while with you; even how to make
toast, and more especially how you make coffee, chocolate, cocoa
(tea, of course, I know). And should this meet your approbation, I
mean to make a little journal, which may some day or other be
useful to our families and friends.
Until I hear from you I shall be waiting with anxiety for your
decision upon this important and domestic subject.
Yours very sincerely,
ELOISE.
_From Mrs. B----, in reply._
Bifrons Villa; Jan. 3d, 1849.
MY DEAR ELOISE,--In answer to yours, I agree, with the greatest
pleasure, to contribute towards your domesticated idea, which, I
must say, is very original, and may, as you observe, prove useful;
but why should we confine our culinary journal to breakfast only?
why not go through the different meals of the day? that is, after
breakfast, the luncheon; then the nursery-dinner at One; and here
it strikes me that, in that series, we might introduce some
receipts, to be called Comforts for Invalids; even our servants'
dinners and teas; then the early dinner at two or three for people
in business, the parlor-dinner at six, the coffee after dinner, and
even suppers for a small ball or evening party; but all on a
moderate scale, leaving the aristocratic style entirely to its
proper sphere.
* * * * *
To show my approbation of your idea, I enclose herewith the first
receipt, _How to make Toast_.
BREAKFASTS.
When we first commenced housekeeping, we were six in family, five of
whom breakfasted together, the three young men in the shop, Mr. B----,
and myself. The cloth was laid by the servant girl at half-past seven
precisely; at ten minutes to eight I used to make tea, and at eight
o'clock we were seated at breakfast, which was composed merely of bread
and butter at discretion, fresh water cresses when plentiful, or
sometimes boiled eggs, and for variation, once a week, coffee, and if in
the winter, we had toast, which I never suffered any servant to prepare
more than five minutes before we were seated, for, if standing any time,
the dry toast becomes tough, and the buttered very greasy, and
consequently unpalatable, as well as indigestible. Twenty minutes only
was the time allowed for breakfast, after which the table was cleared,
the cloth carefully folded and put by for the next morning, for we kept
a separate one for dinner, and imposed the fine of a half-penny upon any
one who should spill their tea or coffee over the cloth by carelessness.
Such was always my plan when in business; for you must know as well as
myself, it is not only the expense of the washing, but the continual
wear and tear of the linen, which make such frequent washings so
ruinous, but my cloth used always to look clean, and I am confident that
not less than five pounds a-year were saved on that very trifling
matter, and you know we thought as much then of five pounds as we
perhaps now do of twenty.
Before partaking of a breakfast, you must provide the materials (which I
always select of the best quality), and require to know how to prepare
them. I shall, therefore, give you a series of every description of
articles which may properly be partaken of at the breakfast-table.
FIRST SERIES OF RECEIPTS.
Perhaps some housekeepers may laugh at the presumption of M. Soyer
in attempting to give a formal receipt for so trifling a matter as
making a piece of toast. But, in Cookery, there are no trifles.
Every preparation of food, however simple, requires thought, care,
and experience. Among the unpleasantnesses of our breakfast-tables,
there are none more common than poor toast.--ED.
1. _Toast._--Procure a nice square loaf of bread that has been baked one
or two days previously (for new bread cannot be cut, and would eat very
heavy), then with a sharp knife cut off the bottom crust very evenly,
and then as many slices as you require, about a quarter of an inch in
thickness (I generally use a carving-knife for cutting bread for toast,
being longer in the blade, it is more handy, and less liable to waste
the bread); contrive to have rather a clear fire; place a slice of the
bread upon a toasting-fork, about an inch from one of the sides, hold it
a minute before the fire, then turn it, hold it before the fire another
minute, by which time the bread will be thoroughly hot, then begin to
move it gradually to and fro until the whole surface has assumed a
yellowish-brown color, when again turn it, toasting the other side in
the same manner; then lay it upon a hot plate, have some fresh or salt
butter (which must not be too hard, as pressing it upon the toast would
make it heavy), spread a piece, rather less than an ounce, over, and cut
into four or six pieces; should you require six such slices for a
numerous family, about a quarter of a pound of butter would suffice for
the whole; but cut each slice into pieces as soon as buttered, and pile
them lightly upon the plate or dish you intend to serve it. This way you
will find a great improvement upon the old system, as often in cutting
through four or five slices with a bad knife, you squeeze all the butter
out of the upper one, and discover the under one, at the peril of its
life, swimming in an ocean of butter at the bottom of the dish.
N.B. The warming of the bread gradually through, on both sides, is a
very great improvement upon the quality of the toast; it may give a
trifle more trouble, but still it is quicker done, and much lighter.
All kinds of toast require to be done the same way, but if to be served
under a bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be toasted drier.
Being in every way an economist, I have generally saved the remnants of
the loaf that have become too dry to be eaten as bread, and by just
dipping them in warm water, toasting them gradually, and buttering them,
I have generally found that they have been eaten in preference, but
their being stale is a secret of my own, which, if divulged, would
prevent their ever being eaten after.
2. _Dry Toast._--Ought not to be toasted until quite ready to serve;
when done, place it in a toast-rack, or standing upon its edges, one
piece resting against another; any kind of toast that has been made half
an hour is not worth eating.
3. _To toast Muffins_ (for Receipt, see No. 6.)--Just open, half an inch
deep, the sides of the muffins, exactly in the centre, with a knife,
then put your toasting-fork in the middle of the bottom, hold it a
little distance from the fire, until partly warmed through, when turn it
and put it again to the fire until it becomes lightly toasted, when
again turn it to toast the other side; when done, pull it open, spread a
thin layer of butter on each side, close them together; lay them upon a
plate, then with a sharp knife divide them across the middle, and serve
very hot. If more than one muffin is required, cut them all separately,
and pile them lightly one upon another, on the plate; when well
prepared, they are, in my opinion, a very great luxury, obtainable at a
trifling expense.
4. _To toast Crumpets._--Crumpets stand lower in the general estimation
of the public, probably from not being so _distingué_, and having the
misfortune to be cheaper than their sister muffins; but, for all that,
the poor ought never to be forgotten, and a crumpet toasted as follows
is not to be despised. Choose your crumpets fresh if possible, though
they are not bad after having been made three or four days; toast them
by warming both sides first, like muffins, then give them a nice light
brown color on each side, lay them in a plate, and spread some rather
soft butter lightly upon each side; cut in halves with a sharp knife,
and serve; half a pat of butter to each crumpet is quite sufficient. If
you have several to serve, lay them separately upon a large hot dish;
some people lay them one upon the other, which is a very bad plan, as it
causes the under ones to eat like a piece of dough, and such food cannot
be wholesome. Crumpets require to be toasted rather quick.
5. _To make Rolls and other Breakfast Bread._--Put four pounds of flour
into an earthen pan, make a hole in the centre, in which put three parts
of a pint of warm water, to which you add a gill of white brewer's
yeast, free from bitter, mix a little flour to form a leaven, which set
in a warm place to rise (it must be allowed to remain until the leaven
has risen and begun to fall), then add a little salt and a pint of warm
milk, form the whole into a flexible dough, which keep in a warm place
for another hour; it is then ready, and may be moulded into the form of
rolls, twists, little crusty loaves, or any shapes most pleasing for the
breakfast-table.
6. _To make Muffins._--Mix a quart of warm water in which you have
dissolved a quarter of a pound of German yeast, with sufficient flour to
form a stiffish batter, which let remain in a warm place four hours,
then stir the mixture down, and break it into pieces weighing a quarter
of a pound each, which mould round with your hands, and put into wooden
trays containing a round bed of flour for each; let them remain in a
warm place two hours to prove, when have your muffin-stove hot; have a
round piece of iron; place on the fire to get hot; set the muffins upon
it, and when nicely risen, turn them gently over, baking them upon the
stove until sufficiently set, when they are done; they will take about
ten minutes baking if the stove is at the proper heat, which is known by
throwing a little flour on it and becoming brown. Muffins may also be
made of brewer's yeast, but then they would require longer proving, and
great care must be taken that the yeast be not bitter.
7. _To make Crumpets._--Mix a gill of brewer's yeast, free from bitter,
with two quarts of water, just lukewarm, to which add sufficient flour
to make a thinnish batter, and let it stand six hours in a warm place,
when stir it well with a wooden spoon, and let it remain four hours
longer; have the muffin-stove hot, upon which lay a number of tin hoops,
the size of crumpets, pour a small ladleful of the batter into each
hoop, and when the top is covered with small bladders, turn them quickly
over (hoops and all) with a large palate knife, and in about five
minutes afterwards they will be sufficiently baked.
8. _Rusks._--Put three pounds of flour upon a dresser, make a hole in
the middle, into which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in a
pint of warm water, mix a little of the flour in, and leave it half an
hour in a warm place to rise, then add two ounces of powdered sugar, and
a quarter of a pound of butter, dissolved in half a pint of warm water;
mix the whole into a dough, and let it remain in a warm place until well
risen, when work it down with the hands, divide it in three pieces, each
of which form into a long roll about two inches in thickness, place them
upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart, and put them in a warm
place to prove, occasionally moistening the tops with milk; bake them in
a moderate oven; when cold, cut them in slices the thickness of a penny
piece, which lay upon a clean baking-sheet, and put into a warm oven,
when well browned upon one side, turn them over, put them again into the
oven until the other side is browned, when they are done and ready for
use.
9. _Tops and Bottoms._--Make a dough exactly as described in the last,
but using only half the butter; have a deep-edged baking-sheet well
buttered, and when the dough is ready, turn it on to a dresser, well
floured; divide into small pieces the size of walnuts, which mould into
round balls, and place close together upon the baking-sheet; put them in
a warm place to prove, and bake well in a moderate oven; when cold,
divide and cut each one in halves (making a top and bottom) which brown
in the oven as directed for rusks.
10. _Buns._--Put three pounds of flour in an earthen pan, make a hole in
the middle, in which put two ounces of German yeast, dissolved in three
parts of a pint of warm water, and stir in a little of the flour,
forming a thinnish batter, let it remain in a warm place nearly an hour,
until well fermented, when add half a pound of sugar, a few currants,
and half a pound of butter, dissolved in nearly a pint of warm milk, mix
the whole well together, making a soft but dry dough; let it remain in a
warm place until it rises very light, when turn it out of the pan on to
a board; work it well with the hands, shaking flour over lightly, then
mould it into small round balls, double the size of walnuts, which place
upon a buttered baking-sheet, four inches apart; moisten the tops with
milk; put them in a warm place to prove, not, however, permitting them
to crack, and bake them in a hot oven.
11.--_Brioche Rolls._--Put four pounds of flour upon a dresser, one
pound of which put on one side, make a hole in the middle into which
pour nearly three parts of a pint of warm water, in which you have
dissolved an ounce of German yeast; mix it into a stiff but delicate
paste, which roll up into a ball: cut an incision across it, and lay it
in a basin well floured, in a warm place, until becoming very light,
then make a large hole in the centre of the three pounds of flour, into
which put half an ounce of salt, two pounds of fresh butter, half a gill
of water, and sixteen eggs, mix it into a rather softish flexible paste,
which press out flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and
working with the hands until well amalgamated, flour a clean cloth, fold
the paste in it and let remain all night. In the morning mould them into
small rolls; put them upon a baking-sheet, and bake in a moderate oven.
Unless your breakfast party is very large, half the above quantity would
be sufficient; but these rolls being quite a luxury, I only make them
upon very especial occasions.
12. _How to choose Eggs._--New-laid eggs should not be used until they
have been laid about eight or ten hours, for that part which constitutes
the white is not properly set before that time, and does not until then
obtain their delicate flavor; that which is termed milk in eggs being,
according to my opinion, very insipid; but that entirely depends upon
fancy.
Nothing being more offensive than eggs in a state of decomposition, it
is very important that every person should know how to detect them
(especially in the winter), if, by shaking them, they sound hollow, you
may be certain they are not new-laid, and not fit to be boiled for
breakfast: but, if broken, they may prove fit for any other culinary
purpose, except for soufflés, for which eggs must be very fresh. The
safest way to try them is to hold them to the light, forming a focus
with your hand; should the shell be covered with small dark spots, they
are very doubtful, and should be broken separately in a cup, and each
egg smelt previous to using; if, however, in looking at them, you see no
transparency in the shells, you may be sure they are rotten and only fit
to be thrown away; the most precise way is, to look at them by the light
of a candle; if quite fresh, there are no spots upon the shells, and
they have a brilliant light yellow tint; in the spring of the year, it
would be scarcely excusable to use any eggs that are not quite fresh.
13. _Eggs for Breakfast,--plain boiled._--Put about a pint of water to
boil in any kind of small stewpan (or saucepan) over the fire; when
boiling, put in two or three fresh eggs, gently, with a spoon, being
particular not to crack them or allow them to boil too fast, or the
interior of the eggs would partly escape before they were set, giving
them an unsightly appearance, and entirely prevent their cooking
regularly: three minutes is sufficient to cook a full-sized egg, but if
below the average size, two minutes and a half will suffice.
14. _Eggs au Beurre: a new method._--Let the eggs boil six minutes
instead of three, then take them out, dip them for two seconds in cold
water, crack and peel off the shells, and lay them in a hot plate (they
will remain quite whole if properly done), cut each egg in halves
lengthwise, spread a little fresh butter and sprinkle a little salt over
the interior, and eat them very hot.
Eggs done in this manner are delicate and digestible.
15. _To boil Eggs hard._--Never boil eggs for salads, sauces, or any
other purposes, more than ten minutes, and when done place them in a
basin of cold water for five minutes to cool: take off their shells, and
use them when required.
Nothing is more indigestible than an egg too hard-boiled.
16. _Poached Eggs._--Put a pint of water in a stewpan, with four
teaspoonfuls of vinegar and half a teaspoonful of salt, place it over
the fire, and when boiling, break your eggs into it as near the surface
of the water as possible, let them boil gently about three minutes; have
rather a thin piece of toast, as described (No. 1), upon a dish, take
the eggs out carefully with a small slice, lay the slice with the eggs
upon a cloth for a second to drain the water from them, set them
carefully upon the toast, and serve very hot. If the eggs are fresh they
will look most inviting, but the way of breaking and boiling them must
be most carefully attended to, and care should be taken not to boil too
many together; if the yolks separate from the white it may be presumed
that the egg is not fresh, but it may be eatable, for the same thing may
happen through awkwardness in poaching.
Again, the toast upon which they are served may be buttered either with
plain or maître d'hôtel butter, or two small pats of butter may be
melted, without boiling it, and poured over, or a little melted butter
sauce, or the same with the addition of a little maître d'hôtel butter
poured over when just upon the point of boiling, or a little anchovy
butter instead of the other; thus you may be able to indulge in nice
little luxuries at a trifling expense.
17. _Toast and Eggs._--Break three eggs into a small stewpan, add a
saltspoonful of salt, a quarter of that quantity of pepper, and two
ounces of fresh butter (the fresher the better), set the stewpan over a
moderate fire, and stir the eggs round with a wooden spoon, being
careful to keep every particle in motion, until the whole has become a
smooth and delicate thickish substance; have ready a convenient-sized
crisp piece of toast, pour the eggs upon it, and serve immediately.
18. _Eggs sur le Plat._--Lightly butter a small oval dish, upon which
break two, three, or more eggs without breaking the yolks, season
lightly with a little white pepper and salt, put a few small pieces of
butter here and there upon them, and then set the dish in a small oven,
where let it remain until the whites become set, but by no means hard,
and serve hot; if the oven is moderately hot, they will take about ten
minutes; if no oven, put the dish before the fire, turning it round now
and then until the eggs are set regular. This is a most excellent dish.
19. _Omelettes_ may also be served for breakfast with great advantage,
being very relishing, especially the omelettes _aux fines herbes_, _au
lard_, and _aux champignons_, but as they are considered to belong to
the dinner, they will be given in that series of receipts.
20. _Herring Toast Sandwich._--Choose a bloater for this purpose not too
dry, which split in two, cutting it down the back; lay them upon a plate
and pour a pint of boiling water over; let them soak five minutes, when
lay them upon a cloth to dry; then broil them very gradually upon a
gridiron; when well done, which will be in about four or five minutes,
have ready two thin slices of toast, made very crisp, butter them
lightly, then take away all the bones from the herrings, lay the fleshy
parts equally upon one piece of toast and cover with the other: serve
very hot.
21. _Toast and Eggs with Herring._--Prepare your toast and eggs as
directed (No. 17), but previous to pouring the eggs over, lay the flesh
of a herring as directed in the last, and pour the eggs over that.
Herrings upon toast, with a layer of mashed potatoes over, is also very
good.
Dried haddock may also be served the same, as also may sardines, but
they being ready-cooked, are laid over cold without splitting them; they
are very delicious; if wanted hot, set them a few minutes before the
fire.
22. _Fish for Breakfast,--Bloated Herrings._--They require to be freshly
salted, for if dry they are quite rank and unpalatable; scrape them
lightly with a knife, and wipe them well with a cloth; pass the point of
a knife down the back from head to tail, making an incision about a
quarter of an inch in depth; place them upon the gridiron over a sharp
fire; they will take about six minutes to cook, of course turning them
occasionally; when done, put them upon a hot dish, open the backs, and
place half a small pat of butter in each; again close them: cooked this
way they are delicious, especially if they are real bloaters. Another
way is to cut them quite open and broil them flat upon the gridiron, and
serve quite plain; this way they are done much more quickly. Or, if nice
and fresh, oil half a sheet of white paper for every fish, in which fold
them and broil fifteen minutes over a slow fire, turning them over three
or four times, and serve in the papers. Should you have any that have
become dry, soak them about twenty minutes in lukewarm water, and
proceed as first directed. (Same process will do for red herrings.)
23. _Dried Haddock._--A very excellent thing for breakfast, but they
never ought to be cooked whole, for one side being thinner than the
other is of course dried up before the other is much more than half
done, especially the larger ones; the better plan is to cut them in
halves lengthwise, put them upon the gridiron over a moderate fire,
keeping them frequently turned, and taking the thinnest half off first;
the thickest will require about ten minutes to cook it thoroughly; when
done, spread a pat of fresh butter over, and serve upon a very hot dish.
Haddocks may also be skinned and broiled in oiled paper, but of course
would take rather more time in cooking.
24. _Whitings._--Of all the modes of preparing and dressing whitings for
breakfast I cannot but admire and prize the system pursued by the
Scotch, which renders them the most light, wholesome, and delicious food
that could possibly be served for breakfast: their method is, to obtain
the fish as fresh as possible, clean and skin them, take out the eyes,
cover the fish over with salt, immediately after which take them out and
shake off the superfluous salt, pass a string through the eye-holes, and
hang them up to dry in a passage or some place where there is a current
of air; the next morning take them off, just roll them lightly in a
little flour, broil them gently over a slow fire, and serve very hot,
with a small piece of fresh butter rubbed over each, or serve quite dry
if preferable.
25. _Slips or Small Soles._--When cleaned, season them with a little
pepper and salt, dip lightly into flour, and broil them slowly over a
moderate fire about ten minutes, or according to the size; when done,
place them upon a hot dish, pour two tablespoonfuls of cream over and
serve immediately. They may of course be served dry, but pouring the
cream over is a new and very good idea. Nothing but small white fish
could be tolerated for breakfast.
26. _Sprats_ when nicely cooked are very commendable. Dip them lightly
into flour, and place them upon a gridiron over a slow fire; when about
half done, turn them; when done (which would be in about five minutes
from the time you put them on), serve dry in a very hot dish.
27. _Meat for Breakfast,--Sheep's Kidneys._--Procure as many as you may
require for your party, about one each is generally sufficient; be sure
that they are fresh, which any person can ascertain by smelling, if not
able to judge by their appearance; cut them open very evenly lengthwise,
down to the root, but not to separate them; then have some small iron or
wooden skewers, upon which thread the kidneys quite flat, by running the
skewer twice through each kidney, that is, under the white part; season
them rather highly with pepper and salt, and place them upon a gridiron
(the inside downwards), over a sharp fire; in three minutes turn them
over, and in about six they will be sufficiently done; then take them
off the skewers, place them in a very hot dish, and serve immediately.
In opening them be careful to cut them in the centre, for should one
half be thicker than the other, one would be dried before the other was
sufficiently cooked.
28. _Kidneys on Toast._--Prepare the kidneys precisely as in the last,
but when done have ready a piece of hot toast, which butter lightly; lay
the kidneys upon it; have ready a small piece of butter, to which you
have added a little pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; place a
small piece in the centre of each kidney, and when melted serve.
29. _Kidney bread-crumbed, à la Maître d'Hôtel._--Prepare the kidneys as
before, and when upon the skewer, have ready upon a plate an egg well
beat up with a fork; season the kidneys with a little salt and pepper,
dip them into the egg, then lightly cover them with bread-crumbs, put
them upon the gridiron, which place over a moderate fire, broil them
about ten minutes, turning them when half done, have ready a little
maître d'hôtel butter, put about half an ounce in each kidney, and serve
immediately upon a very hot dish; by the time it gets upon the table the
butter will be melted, and they eat very relishing; dressed this way
they may also be served upon toast.
30. _Sautéd Kidneys._--Should you not have a fire fit for broiling, put
an ounce of butter into a sauté-pan (which of course must be very
clean), cut the kidney in halves lengthwise; and when the butter is
melted, lay them in, the flat side downwards, having previously well
seasoned them with pepper and salt; set the pan on a moderate fire three
minutes, then turn them, place them again upon the fire until done; when
have ready a piece of dry toast, which place upon a hot dish, pour the
kidneys with the butter and gravy over and serve very hot, care must be
taken in sautéing that the butter does not become burnt.
Another way is to sprinkle about a teaspoonful of chopped eschalots, or
onions, over them whilst being sautéd; this materially changes the
flavor, and meets the approbation of many.
For the cooking of mutton chops, steaks, cutlets, broiled fowl, broiled
bones, or remnants of poultry or game, I must refer you to where they
are given as receipts for the dinner-table.