If your roof has a =pitch of six inches to the foot, or steeper, let the
bottom edge of the shingle rest just above the lower gauge line on the
top of the underlying shingle, as shown in Cut A=. But if the pitch of
the roof is less than six inches to the foot, let the shingle entirely
cover the lower gauge line, as shown in Cut B.
[Illustration: Cut B.]
We advise against the use of our shingles on roofs of less pitch than
five inches to the foot, unless the lap is increased. As a rule, we think
any roof that can be walked over with safety is too flat for shingles of
either wood or metal.
[Illustration: Cut F.]
Should there be a gutter formed at the eave, let the shingle rest on it
as you would in using the ordinary wood shingle. (Remember every other
course =commences with a half shingle, as shown in Cuts A and B=.) The
same rules that govern the laying of slate or the common wood shingle
along valleys, or about chimneys and dormer windows, are applicable to
ours, except the tin shingles are bent up against the sides of chimneys,
which cannot be done with wood or slate. When our shingles turn up
against the sides of chimneys or brick walls, insert flashing by sawing
out the mortar joint above the line of tin work; where the upper edge of
our shingles butts against the brick wall, as they do on the lower side
of chimneys, cut them off on the line where the chimney comes to the
roof, and use a strip of tin bent in this manner. (See Cut F.) The upper
end at A is to fit in mortar joint. The lower edge, B, is nailed to the
sheathing before the shingles are put on. The upper ends of shingles are
then to be pressed up under the fold, C. Great care should be used in
finishing about chimneys and dormers, the details of which cannot well be
explained to suit each case; but a workman of ordinary skill can suggest
the proper manner in which the work should be done to secure thoroughly
tight work.
It is much easier to secure this result with the use of our shingles than
it is with either wood or slate.
Where the upper end of shingle butts against the side of a frame house,
use the same means as on the lower side of chimneys, only let there be
no bend at the point A, as shown in Cut F; but let it extend an inch or
so up under the weather boarding. Where the weather boarding is vertical
there is no way of making tight work but to put the tin work, as before
described, back of the vertical weather board.
In laying the valley, cut the tin so it extends to about one-half inch
over the lock, and bend it under, as shown in Cut D. We furnish to each
customer a small pair of hand-tongs, which is handy to turn this edge
over and pinch it together after the shingle is laid.
[Illustration: Cut D.]
The Cut D represents the shingles laid to and from the valley. In
starting from the valley it is best to hold several shingles together, or
tack them at the top, then with a straight-edge mark and cut where they
overlap the valley; and with the hand-tongs edge and lock them to the
valley, as shown in cut D.
Use the Hip Coping by nailing the edges to the roof boards, and press the
shingle up under the folds on each side after they are cut to suit the
angle of the hip. (See Cut E.)
[Illustration: Cut E.]
As plain as this appears, we have known men to nail the Hip Coping
through the folds and on the top of the shingles. We are, therefore,
particular to say wherever this Hip, or our Plain Ridge Coping (which is
the same thing) is used it should be nailed to the roof boards before the
shingles are put on. The fold is made expressly to receive the edge of
the shingles. Cut E shows this coping and the manner of applying it.
We desire to impress upon our customers, who live in the Northern States,
where blizzards and severe snow storms are frequent, the necessity of
using close sheathing, and if the sheathing is not close, =the use of
sheathing paper, to be laid underneath the shingles=; it adds greatly to
the warmth of the house in winter, and prevents small particles of snow
from entering, it costs but little, and should always be used under wood,
slate or tin shingles where the best protection is desired.