Here I am at the “Feder” in Turin--as dirty a hotel, be it said
passingly, as you’ll find out of Ireland, and seventeen long years it
is since I saw it first. Italy has changed a good deal in the
meanwhile--changed rulers, landmarks, systems, and ideas; not so my
old acquaintance, the Feder! There’s the dirty waiter flourishing his
dirtier napkin; and there’s the long low-ceilinged _table-d’hôte_ room,
stuffy and smoky, and suffocating as ever; and there are the little
grinning coteries of threes and fours round small tables soaking their
rolls in chocolate, and puffing their “Cavours,” with faces as innocent
of soap as they were before the war of the liberation. After all,
perhaps, I’d have no objection if some friend would cry out, “Why, Con,
my boy, you don’t look a day older than when I saw you here in ‘46, I
think! I protest you have not changed in the least. What _elixir vitæ_
have you swallowed, old fellow? Not a wrinkle, nor a grey hair,” and so
on. And yet seventeen years taken out of the working part of a man’s
life--that period that corresponds with the interval between after
breakfast, we’ll say, and an hour before dinner--makes a great gap in
existence; for I did very little as a boy, being not an early riser,
perhaps, and now, in the evening of my days, I have got a theory that a
man ought to dine early and never work after it. Though I’m half
ashamed, on so short an acquaintance with my reader, to mention a
personal incident, I can scarcely avoid--indeed I cannot avoid--relating
a circumstance connected with my first visit to the “Hotel Feder.”
I was newly married when I came abroad for a short wedding-tour. The
world at that time required new-married people to lay in a small stock
of Continental notions, to assist their connubiality and enable them to
wear the yoke with the graceful ease of foreigners; and so Mrs O’D. and
I started with one heart, one passport, and--what’s not so pleasant--one
hundred pounds, to comply with this ordinance. Of course, once over the
border--once in France--it was enough. So we took up our abode in a
very unpretending little hotel of Boulogne-sur-Mer called “La Cour de
Madrid,” where we boarded for the moderate sum of eleven francs fifty
centimes per diem--the odd fifty being saved by my wife not taking the
post-prandial cup of coffee and rum.
There was not much to see at Boulogne, and we soon saw it. For a week or
so Mrs O’D. used to go out muffled like one of the Sultan’s five hundred
wives, protesting that she’d surely be recognised; but she grew out of
the delusion at last, and discovered that our residence at the Cour de
Madrid as effectually screened us from all remark or all inquiry as if
we had taken up our abode in the Catacombs.
Now when one has got a large stock of any commodity on hand--I don’t
care what it is--there’s nothing so provoking as not to find a market.
Mrs O’D.’s investment was bashfulness. She was determined to be the
most timid, startled, modest, and blushing creature that ever wore
orange-flowers; and yet there was not a man, woman, or child in the
whole town that cared to know whether the act for which she left England
was a matrimony or a murder.
“Don’t you hate this place, Cornelius?”--she never called me Con in the
honeymoon. “Isn’t it the dullest, dreariest hole you have ever been in?”
“Not with you.”
“Then don’t yawn when you say so. I abhor it. It’s dirty, it’s vulgar,
it’s dear.”
“No, no. It ain’t dear, my love; don’t say, dear.”
“Billiards perhaps, and filthy cigars, and that greenish
bitter--anisette, I think they call it--are cheap enough, perhaps; but
these are all luxuries I can’t share in.”
Here was the cloud no bigger than a man’s hand that presaged the first
connubial hurricane. A married friend--one of much experience and
long-suffering--had warned me of this, saying, “Don’t fancy you’ll
escape, old fellow; but do the way the Ministry do about Turkey--put the
evil day off; diplomatise, promise, cajole, threaten a bit if needs be,
but postpone;” and, strong with these precepts, I negotiated, as the
phrase is, and, with a dash of reckless liberality that I tremble at now
as I record it, I said, “You’ve only to say where--nothing but where
to, and I’ll take you--up the Rhine, down the Danube, Egypt, the
Cataracts------”
“I don’t want to go so far,” said she, dryly. “Italy will do.”
This was a stunner. I hoped the impossible would have stopped her, but
she caught at the practicable, and foiled me.
“There’s only one objection,” said I, musing.
“And what may that be? Not money, I hope.”
“Heaven forbid--no. It’s the language. We get on here tolerably well,
for the waiter speaks broken English; but in Italy, dearest, English is
unknown.”
“Let us learn Italian, then. My aunt Groves said I had a remarkable
talent for languages.”
I groaned inwardly at this, for the same aunt Groves had vouched for
a sum of seventeen hundred and odd pounds as her niece’s fortune, but
which was so beautifully “tied up,” as they called it, that neither
Chancellor nor Master were ever equal to the task of untying it.
“Of course, dearest, let us learn Italian;” and I thought how I’d crush
a junior counsel some day with a smashing bit of Dante.
We started that same night--travelled on day after day--crossed
Mont Cenis in a snow-storm, and reached the Feder as wayworn and
wretched-looking a pair as ever travelled on an errand of bliss and
beatitude.
“In for a penny” is very Irish philosophy, but I can’t help that; so I
wrote to my brother Peter to sell out another hundred for me out of the
“Threes,” saying “dear Paulina’s health required a little change to a
milder climate” (it was snowing when I wrote, and the thermometer over
the chimneypiece at 9° Reaumur, with windows that wouldn’t shut, and a
marble floor without carpet)--“that the balmy air of Italy” (my teeth
chattered as I set it down) “would soon restore her; and indeed already
she seemed to feel the change.” That she did, for she was crouching over
a pan of charcoal ashes, with a railroad wrapper over her shoulders.
It’s no use going over what is in every one’s experience on first coming
south of the Alps--the daily, hourly difficulty of not believing that
you have taken a wrong road and got into Siberia; and strangest of
all it is to see how little the natives think of it. I declare I often
thought soap must be a great refrigerant, and I wish some chemist would
inquire into the matter.
“Are we ever to begin this blessed language?” said Mrs O’D. to me, after
four days of close arrest--snow still falling and the thermometer going
daily down, down, lower and lower. Now I had made inquiries the day
before from the landlord, and learned that he knew of a most competent
person, not exactly a regular teacher who would insist upon our going
to work in school fashion, but a man of sense and a gentleman--indeed,
a person of rank and title, with whom the world had gone somewhat badly,
and who was at that very moment suffering for his political opinions,
far in advance, as they were, of those of his age.
“He’s a friend of Gioberti,” whispered the landlord in my ear, while his
features became animated with the most intense significance. Now, I
had never so much as heard of Gioberti, but I felt it would be a
deep disgrace to confess it, and so I only exclaimed, with an air of
half-incredulity, “Indeed!”
“As true as I’m here,” replied he. “He usually drops in about noon to
read the ‘Opinione,’ and, if you permit, I’ll send him up to you. His
name is Count Annibale Castrocaro.”
I hastened forthwith to Mrs O’D., to apprise her of the honour that
awaited us; repeating, a little _in extenso_, all that the host had
said, and finishing with the stunning announcement, “and a friend of
Gio-berti.” Mrs O’Dowd never flinched under the shock, and, too proud to
own her ignorance, she pertly remarked, “I don’t think the more of him
for that.”
I felt that she had beat me, and I sat down abashed and humiliated.
Meanwhile Mrs O’D. retired to make some change of dress; but,
reappearing after a while in her smartest morning toilette, and a very
coquettish little cap, with cherry-coloured ribbons, I saw what the word
Count had done at once.
Just as the clock struck twelve, the waiter flung wide the double doors
of our room, and announced, as pompously as though for royalty, “II
Signor Conte di Castrocaro,” and there entered a tall man slightly
stooping in the shoulders, with a profusion of the very blackest hair
on his neck and shoulders, his age anything from thirty-five to
forty-eight, and his dress a shabby blue surtout, buttoned to the throat
and reaching below the knees. He bowed and slid, and bowed again, till
he came opposite where my wife sat, and then, with rather a dramatic
sort of grace, he lifted her hand to his lips and kissed it. She
reddened a little, but I saw she wasn’t displeased with the air of
homage that accompanied the ceremony, and she begged him to be seated.
I own I was disappointed with the Count, his hair was so greasy, and
his hands so dirty, and his general get-up so uncared for; but Mrs O’D.
talked away with him very pleasantly, and he replied in his own broken
English, making little grimaces and smiles and gestures, and some very
tender glances, do duty where his parts of speech failed him. In fact, I
watched him as a sort of psychological phenomenon, and I arrived at the
conclusion that this friend of Gioberti’s was a very clever artist.
All was speedily settled for the lessons--hour, terms, and mode of
instruction. It was to be entirely conversational, with a little
theme-writing, no getting by heart, no irregular verbs, no declensions,
no genders. I did beg hard for a little grammar, but he wouldn’t hear of
it. It was against his “system,” and so I gave in.
We began the next day, but the Count ignored me altogether, directing
almost all his attentions to Mrs O’D.; and as I had already some small
knowledge of the elementary part of the language, I was just as well
pleased that she should come up, as it were, to my level. From this
cause I often walked off before the lesson was over, and sometimes,
indeed, I skulked it altogether, finding the system, as well as
Gioberti’s friend, to be an unconscionable bore. Mrs O’D., on the
contrary, displayed an industry I never believed her to possess, and
would pass whole evenings over her exercises, which often covered
several sheets of letter-paper.
We had now been about five weeks in Turin, when my brother wrote to
request I would come back as speedily as I could, that a case in which
I held a brief was high in the cause-list, and would be tried very early
in the session. I own I was not sorry at the recall. I detested the
dreary life I was leading. I hated Turin and its bad feeding and bad
theatres, its rough wines and its rougher inhabitants.
“Did you tell the Count we are off on Saturday?” asked I of Mrs O’D.
“Yes,” said she, dryly.
“I suppose he’s inconsolable,” said I, with a sneer.
“He’s very sorry we’re going, if you mean that, Mr O’Dowd; and so am I
too.”
“Well, so am not I; and you may call me a Dutchman if you catch me here
again.”
“The Count hopes you will permit him to see you. He asked this morning
whether he might call on you about four o’clock.”
“Yes, I’ll see him with sincere pleasure for once,” I cried; “since it
is to say good-bye to him.”
I was in my dressing-room, packing up for the journey, when the Count
was announced and shown in. “Excuse me, Count,” said I, “for receiving
you so informally, but I have a hasty summons to call me back to
England, and no time to spare.”
“I will, notwithstanding, ask you for some of that time, all precious as
it is,” said he in French, and with a serious gravity that I had never
observed in him before.
“Well, sir,” said I, stiffly; “I am at your orders.”
It is now seventeen long years since that interview, and I am free to
own that I have not even yet attained to sufficient calm and temper
to relate what took place. I can but give the substance of our
conversation. It is not over-pleasant to dwell on, but it was to this
purport:--The Count had come to inform me that, without any intention or
endeavour on his part, he had gained Mrs O’Dowd’s affections and won her
heart! Yes, much-valued reader, he made this declaration to me, sitting
opposite to me at the fire, as coolly and unconcernedly as if he was
apologising for having carried off my umbrella by mistake. It is true,
he was most circumstantial in showing that all the ardour was on one
side, and that he, throughout the whole adventure, conducted himself
as became a Gran’ Galantuomo, and the friend of Gioberti, whatever that
might mean.
My amazement--I might almost call it my stupefaction--at the
unparalleled impudence of the man, so overcame me, that I listened to
him without an effort at interruption.
“I have come to you, therefore, to-day,” said he, “to give up her
letters.”
“Her letters!” exclaimed I; “and she has written to you!”
“Twenty-three times in all,” said he, calmly, as he drew a large black
pocket-book from his breast, and took out a considerable roll of papers.
“The earlier ones are less interesting,” said he, turning them over. “It
is about here, No. 14, that they begin to develop feeling. You see she
commences to call me ‘Caro Animale’--she meant to say Annibale, but,
poor dear! she mistook. No. 15 is stronger--‘Animale Mio’--the same
error; and here, in No. 17, she begins, ‘Diletto del mio cuore, quando
non ti vedo, non ti sento, il cielo stesso, non mi sorride piu. Il mio
Tiranno’--that was _you_.”
I caught hold of the poker with a convulsive grasp, but quick as thought
he bounded back behind the table, and drew out a pistol, and cocked it.
I saw that Gioberti’s friend had his wits about him, and resumed the
conversation by remarking that the documents he had shown me were not in
my wife’s handwriting.
“Very true,” said he; “these, as you will perceive by the official
stamp, are sworn copies, duly attested at the Prefettura--the originals
are safe.”
“And with what object,” asked I, gasping--“safe for what?”
“For you, lllustrissimo,” said he, bowing, “when you pay me two thousand
francs for them.”
“I’ll knock your brains out first,” said I, with another clutch at the
poker, but the muzzle of the pistol was now directly in front of me.
“I am moderate in my demands, signor,” said he, quietly; “there are men
in my position would ask you twenty thousand; but I am a galantuomo----”
“And the friend of Gioberti,” added I, with a sneer.
“Precisely so,” said he, bowing with much grace.
I will not weary you, dear reader, with my struggles--conflicts that
almost cost me a seizure on the brain--but hasten to the result. I beat
down the noble Count’s demand to one-half and for a thousand francs
I possessed myself of the fatal originals, written unquestionably and
indisputably by my wife’s hand; and then, giving the Count a final piece
of advice, never to let me see more of him, I hurried off to Mrs O’Dowd.
She was out paying some bills, and only arrived a few minutes before
dinner-hour.
“I want you, madam, for a moment here,” said I, with something of
Othello, in the last act, in my voice and demeanour.
“I suppose I can take off my bonnet and shawl first, Mr O’Dowd,” said
she, snappishly.
“No, madam; you may probably find that you’ll need them both at the end
of our interview.”
“What do you mean, sir?” asked she, haughtily.
“This is no time for grand airs or mock dignity, madam,” said I, with
the tone of the avenging angel. “Do you know these? are these in your
hand? Deny it if you can.”
“Why should I deny it? Of course they’re mine.”
“And you wrote this, and this, and this?” cried I, almost in a scream,
as I shook forth one after another of the letters.
“Don’t you know I did?” said she, as hotly; “and nothing beyond a venial
mistake in one of them!”
“A what, woman? a what?”
“A mere slip of the pen, sir. You know very well how I used to sit up
half the night at my exercises?”
“Exercises!”
“Well, themes, if you like better; the Count made me make clean copies
of them, with all his corrections, and send them to him every day--here
are the rough ones;” and she opened a drawer filled with a mass of
papers all scrawled over and blotted. “And now, sir, once more, what do
you mean?”
I did not wait to answer her, but rushed down to the landlord. “Where
does that Count Castrocaro live?” I asked.
“Nowhere in particular, I believe, sir; and for the present he has left
Turin--started for Genoa by the diligence five minutes ago. He’s a Gran’
Galantuomo, sir,” added he, as I stood stupefied.
“I am aware of that,” said I, as I crept back to my room to finish my
packing.
“Did you settle with the Count?” asked my wife at the door.
“Yes,” said I, with my head buried in my trunk.
“And he was perfectly satisfied?”
“Of course he was--he has every reason to be so.”
“I am glad of it,” said she, moving away--“he had a deal of trouble with
those themes of mine. No one knows what they cost him.” I could have
told what they cost _me_; but I never did, till the present moment.
I need not say with what an appetite I dined on that day, nor with what
abject humility I behaved to my wife, nor how I skulked down in the
evening to the landlord to apologise for not being able to pay the bill
before I left, an unexpected demand having left me short of cash.
All these, seventeen years ago as they are, have not yet lost their
bitterness, nor have I yet arrived at the time when I can think with
composure of this friend of Gioberti.
Admiral Dalrymple tells us, amongst his experiences as a farmer, that he
gave twenty pounds for a dung-hill, “and he’d give ten more to any one
who’d tell him what to do with it.” I strongly suspect this is pretty
much the case with the Italians as regards their fleet. There it is--at
least, there is the beginning of it; and when it shall be complete,
where is it to go? what is it to protect? whom to attack?
The very last thing Italians have in their minds is a war with England.
If we have not done them any great or efficient service, we have always
spoken civilly of them, and bade them a God-speed. But, besides a
certain goodwill that they feel for us, they entertain--as a nation with
a very extended and ill-protected coast-line ought--a considerable dread
of a maritime power that could close every port they possess, and lay
some very important towns in ashes.
Now, it is exactly by the possession of a fleet that, in any future
war between England and France, these people may be obliged to ally
themselves to France. The French will want them in the Mediterranean,
and they cannot refuse when called on.
Count Cavour always kept telling our Foreign Office, “A strong Italy is
the best thing in the world for you. A strong Italy is the surest of all
barriers against France.” There may be some truth in the assertion if
Italy could spring at once--Minerva fashion--all armed and ready for
combat, and stand out as a first-rate power in Europe; but to do this
requires years of preparation, long years too; and it is precisely
in these years of interval that France can become all-dominant in
Italy--the master, and the not very merciful master, of her destinies
in everything. France has the guardianship of Italy--with this addition,
that she can make the minority last as long as she pleases.
Perhaps my Garibaldian companion has impregnated me with an unreasonable
amount of anti-French susceptibility, for certainly he abuses our dear
allies with a zeal and a gusto that does one’s heart good to listen to;
and I do feel like that honest Bull, commemorated by Mathews, that “I
hate prejudice--I hate the French.” So it is: these revolutionists,
these levellers, these men of the people, are never weary of reviling
the French Emperor for being a _parvenu_. Human inconsistency cannot go
much farther than this. Not but I perfectly agree with my Garibaldian,
that we have all agreed to take the most absurdly exaggerated estimate
of the Emperor’s ability. Except in some attempts, and not always
successful attempts, to carry out the policy and plans of the first
Empire, there is really nothing that deserves the name of statesmanship
in his career. Wherever he has ventured on a policy, and accompanied it
by a prediction, it has been a failure. Witness the proud declaration
of Italy from the Alps to the Adriatic, with its corroboration in the
Treaty of Villafranca! The Emperor, in his policy, resembles one of
those whist-players who never plan a game, but play trick by trick, and
rather hope to win by discovering a revoke than from any honest success
of their own hand. It is all the sharp practice of statecraft that
he employs: nor has he many resources in cunning. The same dodge that
served him in the Crimea he revived at Villafranca. It is always the
same ace he has in his sleeve!
The most ardent Imperialist will not pretend to say that he knows his
road out of rome or Mexico, or even Madagascar. For small intrigue,
short speeches to deputations, and mock stag-hunts, he has not his
superior anywhere. And now, here we are in Genoa, at the Hotel Feder,
where poor O’Connell died, and there’s no fleet, not a frigate, in the
port.
“Where are they?”
“At Spezia.”
“Where is Spezia?”
The landlord, to whom this question is propounded, takes out of a
pigeon-hole of his desk a large map and unfolds it, saying, proudly,
“There, sir, that is Spezia--a harbour that could hold Portsmouth,
and Plymouth, and Brest, and Cherbourg “--I’m not sure he didn’t say
Calais--“and yet have room for our Italian fleet, which, in two years’
time, will be one of the first in Europe.”
“The ships are building, I suppose?” said I.
“They are.”
“And where?”
“In America, at Toulon, and in England.”
“None in Italy?”
“Pardon me; there is a corvette on the stocks at Leghorn, and they are
repairing a boiler at Genoa. Ah! Signor John Bull, take care; we have
iron and coal mines, we have oak and hemp, and tallow and tar. There
was a winged lion once that swept the seas before people sang ‘Rule
Britannia.’ History is going to repeat itself.”
“Let me be called at eight to-morrow morning, and my coffee be ready by
nine.”
“And we shall want a vetturino for Spezia,” added my Garibaldian; “let
him be here by eleven.”