A WONDERFUL DAY
PROMPTLY at four, the huge red machine puffed up to the front curbing.
The Colonel was walking up and down in the Plaza opposite, smoking a
cigarette; for when not eating or asleep, an Argentine gentleman is
seldom seen without the thin, white _cigarrillo_ between his lips. He
looked most distinguished in his scarlet and green uniform.
It took but a few moments to reach his sister's _casa_,[3] and the maid
who answered his ring in the narrow vestibule that opened directly onto
the street told him the family were having _máte_ in the _patio_, which
was partly shaded in the late afternoon. He was welcomed heartily, and
was kissed by each one twice, after the foreign fashion, once on either
cheek.
The _máte_ cup, an egg-shaped gourd, was passed from hand to hand as
they sat talking, each one in turn sucking the fragrant tea through the
same silver tube; the little Indian maid refilling the gourd again and
again with hot water.
This is the universal custom in South American countries below the
Equator, and aside from the benefits derived from the drinking of the
pungent herb itself, it has a significance akin to the "loving cup"
idea, and is a symbolization of family love and domestic ties.
A guest is always asked to partake of _máte_ with the family, and if he
is unaccustomed to the manner of its usage, the fact that he is expected
to obtain his share by means of the one, universal tube, is at first
disconcerting, but he dare not refuse under penalty of offending his
host.
This herb is called "Paraguayian tea," or "Jesuits' tea," as it was used
extensively by the early Jesuit Fathers, who were one of the most
important factors in the civilization of the lower half of South
America. It is grown mostly in Brazil and Paraguay and its cultivation
has become quite an industry.
The dried leaves are placed in a small gourd, hot water is poured into
it, and it is then sucked into the mouth through the long silver tube,
which has a bulbous end, perforated with small holes so that the tea is
strained. At the first taste it is exceedingly bitter, but one soon
grows very fond of it. It is very stimulating and a _gaucho_, or cowboy,
will sometimes, under stress of circumstances, ride all day with only
his morning gourd of _máte_ to sustain him, and then eat his first meal
of the day at sundown.
The Colonel soon made known his errand, and Francisco was beside himself
with joy. He danced about the _patio_ clapping his hands, and then ran
indoors to sick Elena to smother her with kisses, and to tell her of his
good fortune.
"Oh, Elena, just think of it! Two whole weeks in the big _casa_ with
servants, horses and automobiles--and then two whole months in the
_campo_[4] with uncle to ride with me, and teach me something new every
day!"
"But Elena mia, you will miss me," and a note of sadness crept into his
voice.
"Yes, Francisco, I shall miss you, but I shall enjoy myself every day
thinking of what you are doing, and you will write to me; Mamá will read
me your letters, and then there will be so much to talk about when you
return,"--and Francisco embraced her another time.
Half an hour later, clean and shining in his best suit of clothes,
exchanged for the long linen duster that all Argentine schoolboys wear
to play in, he was spinning along the asphalt streets, sitting beside
the man who stood, to his young mind, for every virtue assigned to his
patron saint.
At first he was slightly shy, for this wonderful soldier uncle had never
paid any particular attention to him, so engrossed was he always with
his books and his family; but as they threaded their way in and out the
traffic-crowded streets, among the heavy carts, the noisily clanging
electric tram-cars, and low, open victorias filled with elaborately
dressed women, and fleet wheeled automobiles of every size and class,
Francisco began to ask questions, and forgot his timidity. They were
soon chatting interestedly.
"How would you like a spin out to Palermo?" his uncle asked, as they
reached the central part of the city.
"Better than I could say," replied the happy lad; his heart meanwhile
bounding, for he seldom saw the trees and flowers of the vast park that
is one of the city's most picturesque attractions.
"Then, Enrique--to the park, via the _Avenida[5] Alvear_," said Colonel
Lacevera to the chauffeur.
It was late afternoon now, and being Thursday, the broad avenues were
filled with hundreds of vehicles; since Thursday and Sunday are the
afternoons chosen by fashionable Buenos Aires for the diversion of
riding or driving to the great Prado to hear the military band, and to
mingle in the long lines of carriages and motor cars.
The _Avenida Alvear_, broad and smoothly paved, with its magnificent
residences on either side, makes a desirable avenue from which to
approach the park. As they rode along, the odour of jasmine and roses
hung heavy about them, coming from the beautiful gardens surrounding the
palatial homes. Long arbours of American Beauty roses, looking like
crimson lined tunnels; majestic palm trees, over which trailed Marechal
Niel roses and cypress vines; bulky shrubs, with sweet scents; all these
lent their charm to the scene, and Francisco, ever alive to the beauties
of nature, felt this to be a foretaste of Paradise.
Soon they were in the palm bordered drives of the park; but they crept
along at a snail's pace, as the speed on crowded afternoons is limited
to a funeral pace, in order that the lines of carriages both coming and
going may avoid confusion.
Through the trees and shrubbery Francisco caught glimpses of cool
running streams, crossed by rustic bridges; clear, limpid lakes with
swans and boats, and here and there, pavilions where ices and
_refrescos_ were being enjoyed by the gay crowd. At intervals, on
splendid black horses, were stationed picturesque looking mounted
policemen, their long horsehair plumes trailing over their shoulders,
from which hung scarlet lined capes. It was their duty to keep the half
dozen columns of vehicles in proper line.
The Colonel's car had entered the wide area of the Avenue Sarmiento when
he leaned towards the chauffeur and said, "Turn towards the Zoological
Gardens, Enrique." And then, to the boy beside him, he said, "How could
you stand half an hour in the Zoological Gardens, Niño?"[6]
"I would try to bear up under it, Uncle," replied Francisco, as his eyes
twinkled an answer to the merriment in the older man's. They alighted at
the curbing, and entered the immense iron gates into that Mecca of all
Argentine boyish hearts.
All of this seemed as a dream to Francisco for although his mother had
frequently brought him here, she knew little of the animals and birds;
and now with Uncle Juan he could ask questions innumerable without
getting the reply: _Yo no se_.[7]
They paused first at the great cage, fifty feet in height and covering
an area of half a city block, built over a small artificial mountain
where hundreds of eagles and condors wheeled, fought and chattered.
"See the pavilion that looks like a Hindoo temple, Francisco; let us see
what animal makes that its home."
"Elephants, Uncle Juan, and perhaps we can see the baby elephant that
was born here a few weeks ago." Sure enough, in a park all their own,
surrounding the Hindoo temple house, was a family of elephants and the
baby elephant stood beside its mother, who was rubbing it affectionately
with her long trunk.
The alpacas, llamas, deer, bison, guanacos and vicuñas came next, and
Uncle Juan could answer every question that the eager boy put to him,
for, during his active service in the army, he had spent much time on
the frontier, and on the Cordilleras of the Andes, where these animals
are found.
[Illustration: "HE PERMITTED FRANCISCO TO TAKE A RIDE ON THE TAME
LLAMA"]
He permitted Francisco to take a ride on the tame llama, who rivalled
the Lilliputian steam engine in its popularity as a mode of progression
around the garden. As it did not trot, but walked sleepily along with
Francisco, having served all day, no doubt, as a vehicle for children
visiting the "Zoo," Uncle Juan walked beside him, and, as they
proceeded, he told him much about the small camel-like animal upon whose
back he rode.
"You see, Niño, a llama is almost like a camel, but its size and
strength are inferior. It has no hump on its back, but as you saw when
you mounted it, it kneels like one. They thrive best at a high elevation
where they browse on reeds, lichens, mosses and grass. If the grass is
succulent they can go without water for a long time. When they are
domesticated it is for their fine fleece. Their flesh when young is
deliciously tender, and it is then that they can be caught with dogs and
a lasso, but the old ones can only be shot at a distance, and their
flesh is fit only to be dried and salted. I have seen them in Perú used
as beasts of burden, and the Indians make a very beautiful and valuable
cloth from the soft fleece. But come, lad, the sun sinks, and we may
come here another time."
As they walked towards the gate where the car was awaiting them, they
passed lakes where waded and swam many birds of brilliant plumage.
Herons and flamingoes, red and gray and pink, stood on one leg, lazily,
watching for minnows.
"Why are some of the flamingoes scarlet and some pink?" asked Francisco.
"Those with red plumage are the old ones and the delicate rose coloured
ones are not yet in their second year. At old Roman feasts their tongues
were considered the greatest delicacy; I have eaten their flesh roasted,
and it is wonderfully palatable."
"Oh, Uncle, we haven't seen the lions, nor the bears, nor the monkeys,
nor the boa-constrictors," coaxed Francisco, as they came in sight of
the gates.
"But we shall see them another time, Niño. We cannot see the half of
these great gardens in a day, for they cover many acres, and contain the
finest specimens of any garden on the continent." As they passed out the
bugles at the military post opposite were sounding for the soldiers'
dinner and the avenues were no longer crowded.
"With haste now, to the _casa_," ordered the Colonel, and the enormous
car plunged ahead, along the deserted boulevards where the electric
lights were beginning to appear one by one. Francisco had never flown so
fast and he cuddled close into his uncle's arm; the strong man held him
tenderly, lovingly, and they entered the electric lighted _patio_ of the
_casa_ arm in arm.
Now the Colonel's home was not unlike many others of its class, but to
the little lad's eyes it seemed a palace. The main part of it was
perfectly square, and built around an inner court from which many of
the rooms were lighted and all were entered. The windows facing the
street were heavily barred, and small balconies of wrought iron
projected from each window, over-hanging the pavement a few feet below.
The house was flat and of but one story; into this first court opened
luxuriously furnished parlours, drawing-rooms, smoking-rooms and
library. Behind all of this was another court with smaller rooms opening
into it, exactly like a smaller house. Into this opened all the
bed-rooms, the bathrooms and the long elegantly furnished dining-room.
Quite separate, and reached by a rear street entrance, was yet another,
a third court or _patio_, and into this opened the pantries, kitchen and
servants' quarters. The walls of the high spacious parlours were richly
decorated, and the chandeliers were of silver and crystal; while
ornaments and valuable souvenirs from all parts of the world were
displayed throughout the entire house.
Although only Francisco and the Colonel sat at dinner that night, the
table was lavishly decorated, and the cut glass, silver and dinner of
many courses, including fish, game, meats, vegetables and fruits, were a
source of constant bewilderment and admiration to the boy accustomed to
humbler fare and less luxurious surroundings.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 3: House.]
[Footnote 4: Country.]
[Footnote 5: Avenue.]
[Footnote 6: The affectionate name for all small boys.]
[Footnote 7: I do not know.]