CHAPTER VI.

Previous to Bruce's landing at Masuah, the ancient port of Abyssinia, it

would seem proper to lay before the reader some account of this country,

and of the continent to which it belongs.

Of Africa in general it may be justly said, that ninety-nine parts of it

are unknown; and that, at several points, a man might travel from the

Mediterranean very nearly to the Cape of Good Hope, and from the Indian

Ocean to the Atlantic, over ground which has never been trodden or seen

by any European traveller.

We have surveyed its coasts; we are acquainted with part of the Nile;

and, in a very few directions, we have attempted to penetrate into the

interior of the country; but it must be confessed that Africa is an

immense blank in geography which remains yet to be filled up. Instead,

therefore, of presuming to offer a map of this continent, we propose to

attempt nothing more than a short verbal description of its general

features, with a few observations thereon; and as Bruce's memoranda on

the topography and history of Abyssinia are, with little attention to

arrangement, scattered over the seven volumes of his travels, and would

alone fill three or four times as many pages as the whole of this little

book contains, we shall merely add to our sketch of Africa a slight

descriptive outline of the kingdom of Abyssinia, and an abstract of its

history up to the time when Bruce landed in that country.

We are but indifferently prepared to do justice to these subjects; but

we feel that it is impossible for the general reader, going merely step

by step, like a man walking in the dark with a lantern, to judge of

Bruce's life in Abyssinia, unless he previously takes into consideration

the general character and history of that country, and the character of

the continent of which it forms a part.

SKETCH OF THE CONTINENT OF AFRICA.

That vast portion of the globe which we call Africa is in length about

five thousand miles, which is about the distance from the line to

Iceland, or from Calcutta to the North Pole: in short, it is about one

thousand miles more than the distance from the earth's centre to its

circumference. The greatest breadth of Africa is very nearly equal to

its length. This immense expanse of country is situated in exactly the

hottest region of the globe; for, from the equator, it is two thousand

five hundred miles to its northern boundary, the Mediterranean Sea, and

about the same distance to its southern extremity, the Cape of Good

Hope. The burning heat of both the torrid zones forms, therefore, the

scorching climate of the middle portion of this continent; and the

northern and southern extremities, its coldest regions, are, as we all

know, nearer to the line than the most southern or hottest parts of

Europe. To describe the climate, it may therefore, in general terms, not

unjustly be observed, that what is marked by Nature upon our European

scale of climate as excess of heat, is all that the African knows of the

luxury of cold, excepting that which is produced by elevation or

evaporation.

Although Africa is thus perpetually exposed to a scorching sun, yet, if

it were well watered, it would be highly productive, and not unlike a

luxuriant garden. But, although heat and water give this exuberant

fertility to any soil, we also know that, without water (the blood of

the vegetable world), the richest land remains a _caput mortuum_--_rudis

indigestaque moles_--an inert, lifeless mass. Water being, therefore, an

element of such vital importance in the production of vegetation, it

becomes necessary to take a very short practical view of the tropical

rains which deluge the centre of Africa.

During the half-yearly visits which the sun pays in succession to the

torrid regions on the north and south of the line, the air, heated by

his presence, becomes rarefied, and flies upward: its place is

immediately filled; and thus a constant rush of air, or, as we call it,

a trade-wind, is produced, which, being also influenced by the diurnal

motion of the sun, is constantly flowing towards the equator. The air,

thus rushing towards the sun, is by heat made capable of absorbing a

greater quantity of water than it could contain in a colder state; and

therefore, as soon as this air and vapour united rise into high and

consequently colder regions, a divorce between the two elements suddenly

takes place; the air now loses its power of retaining the vapour, which,

being immediately condensed, becomes water; and its companion, the dry

air, thus deserted by it, falls to the earth in what we term tropical

rains, which, accompanying the sun from one torrid zone to another, are,

by a most wonderful provision of Nature, perpetually assuaging the

thirst which this immense heating mass tends to create. The rains are

always most violent where the sun is in the zenith; and, as a remarkable

instance of the effect which they produce, it may be stated, that Bruce

observed, when the sun was immediately over Gondar, the capital of

Abyssinia, that the thermometer was invariably about twelve degrees

lower than when he was in the southern tropic, thirty-six degrees from

the zenith of Gondar: so happily does the approach of rain compensate

for the heat of a burning sun! But, while the centre of Africa, or, to

speak more correctly, a belt of about eleven hundred miles on each side

of the line, is thus periodically deluged with water, yet, in the vast

remainder of the continent, it may be said, with very few exceptions,

that it never rains at all. The burning heat and the unequal

distribution of water in Africa being understood, the following picture

of the country is the natural consequence.

Within the limits of the tropical rains, the soil, rank from excessive

heat and moisture, in some places is found covered with trees of most

enormous size, encircled by kossom and other twining shrubs, which form

bowers of a most beautiful description, enlivened by the notes of

thousands of gaudy birds, and perfumed with fragrant aromatic breezes.

These trees are often the acacia vera, or Egyptian thorn. They seldom

grow above fifteen or sixteen feet high, then flatten; and, spreading

wide at the top, touch each other, while the trunks are far asunder: and

thus, under a vertical sun, for many miles together, there is a free

space, in which both men and beasts may walk in a cool, delicious shade.

Other parts of this region produce coarse grass, high enough to cover a

man on horseback, or a jungle, composed of tall underwood and briers,

which would be almost impervious to human beings were it not for the

elephant and other large animals, which, crushing everything in their

progress, form paths in various directions. In many places the land is

highly cultivated, divided into plantations, fenced in as in England,

possessing towns of more than thirty thousand inhabitants, and swarming

with an immense population.

Strangely contrasted with this picture of the wet portion of Africa are

its dry, lifeless deserts, composed either of mountains and plains of

hot stones, or of vast masses of loose, burning sand, which, sometimes

formed into moving pillars by the whirlwind, and sometimes driven

forward, like a mist, by the gale, threaten the traveller with death and

burial, or, rather, with burial and then death; a fate which befell the

army of Cambyses. In some places, however, the sand is found, like a

layer of mortar, firmly cemented on the surface by an incrustation of

salt; and it is in these scorching regions of salt and sand that the

traveller experiences what he has emphatically termed "the thirst of the

desert;" and yet, with all its horrors, the desert parts of Africa are

more healthy, and afford a residence which is often more desirable than

the rank, luxuriant regions; for the excessive rains bring into

existence vast numbers of flies, moschetoes, and ants, which not only

torment the body, but even devour the garments. Denham says (vol. ii.,

p. 91), "After a night of intolerable misery to us all, from flies and

moschetoes, so bad as to knock up two of our blacks, we mounted, &c....

Another night was passed in a state of suffering and distress which

defies description: the buzz from the insects was like the singing of

birds; the men and horses groaned with anguish. I do not think our

animals could have borne another such night." Besides producing these

flies, the rains cover the country with extensive lakes, and, as far as

the eye can reach, with immense miry swamps, which at first drive the

wild beasts among the human race, and then putrify and corrupt the air;

converting a verdant, smiling country into what may be termed a painted

sepulchre. In the desert, on the other hand, there are no flies; the

air is comparatively healthy; and, as the heat penetrates only a few

inches into the ground, a cool bed can always be obtained after sunset

by clearing away the hot sand from the surface.

The moral outline of Africa is far more gloomy than the physical face of

the country. The whole of the interior (as far as Europeans have been

able to judge, or, rather, to conjecture, from their slight acquaintance

with it) may be said to be one scene of incessant civil war. Of all the

various tribes, nations, colours, and races of men who inhabit this

immense country, there is not one which has not its enemy; and the

universal creed of Africa seems to be, that the freedom and happiness of

one tribe rest upon the slavery and misery of another. The Sultan of

Mandara, on the marriage of his daughter, lately made an incursion into

the Kerdy country: three thousand unfortunate wretches were thus dragged

from their homes, and doomed to perpetual bondage.

Across scorching deserts, in which not a living animal, or even an

insect, exists, in various directions are seen one tribe of human beings

driving another to slavery. The unfortunate captives, starting from

their native seats in health, and, strange to say, even in spirits,

gradually decline in both: their bodies become emaciated, their legs

swell, and, as Denham says, "on approaching the wells, they run forward

several miles like things distracted, their mouths open, and eyes

starting from their heads." The water they seek is sometimes brackish,

or the well itself is found to be dry; and around its exhausted source

stand grouped this crowd of disappointed beings, surrounded by the

countless skeletons of those whose captivity and troubles have alike

ended on the same spot; who have perished from thirst and fatigue; and

whose bones the hungry camels of the Cafila are oftentimes seen to chew.

From the northern coast of Africa, where the Christian captive has so

often ended his days in silent misery and anguish, down to the country

of the Hottentots and Caffres, a space of about five thousand miles,

and from the eastern mountains of Abyssinia to the waters of the great

Western Ocean, a distance of nearly four thousand miles, we have every

reason to believe that, throughout the whole of this immense region, the

system of slavery more or less prevails.

The Life and Adventures of Bruce, the African Traveller · 第 6 / 18 章