Leave Sockna — Stop at Hammam — Well of Temedd — Sufferings of
the Slaves — Arrive at Bonjem — Danger on the Desert — Zemzem
— Sofageen — Storm in the Mountains — See two Roman Ruins —
Arrive at Zleetun — Description of that Place — Leave Zleetun
— Visit Lebida — Illness — Arrival at Tripoli — Account of
the Negroes of the Kafflé — General Notices of the Desert —
Belford’s bad State of Health — Departure from Tripoli — Pass
Quarantine at Leghorn — Return over the Continent to England.
Friday, 3rd of March.—Hadge Mohammed brought a poor girl to me
for advice. She was very feverish and light-headed, and complained
of excessive pain in the chest, for which I bled and gave her some
cooling medicine. At seven we proceeded, having filled water for
three days, the well immediately before us being unfit to drink; our
road lay over a gravelly plain. At 12.15. mountains closed in from
the left to those on the right, which at the distance of half a mile
ran parallel to our road; they were of yellow limestone and sand,
and all table-topped. We passed along a Wadey closely bounded by
mountains, until two, when we stopped for my patient, who had lagged
behind; her unfeeling master, contrary to my earnest request, having
suffered her to walk, while he lazily rode a camel. She arrived in
about an hour, very weak, and in much pain; and would have been
beaten, had I not interposed. I gave her some cotton impregnated
with lemon-juice, to steep in water, which a little refreshed her. A
strong sand wind set in from the westward, and much distressed us:
we had no remedy for it, but to lie down, and occasionally to rise
and free ourselves from the heaps of sand which rapidly collected
over our clothes. We had made this day north by east seventeen
miles. In the evening, the wind having somewhat abated, I got a
piece of leather sewed on to the hard skin under my Maherry’s foot.
Saturday, March 4th.—Fine morning. We went on about two miles to
a well called Temedd, the water of which is black, and resembles in
taste Glauber’s salts, and cabbage water. My horse refused to drink
it; but a large supply was laid in for the poor slaves. At 9.30. left
the well, and at 10.15. turned off through two mountains north-east
by east. The Wadey we had just left runs three miles north of the
well, and is called Tarr. At 10.15. opened on a gravelly plain;
at five stopped amongst a few little low bushes. The pass through
which we had come bore south 15° west, and we had made from it
about fourteen miles. We had a strong blinding sand wind blowing
over us all this day from the westward.
The poor girl who had ridden on a camel was now free from fever,
but very weak and low-spirited. I gave her good water and cusscussou.
Sunday, 5th of March.—At 7.30. we went on, still over a sandy
plain, with a few small shrubs; a strong wind, with much sand,
blowing from the north-west. These winds blow in sudden gusts,
and remind me of the whirlwinds called “cats’-paws” in the
navy. The Negress being unable to sit upright, was lashed on the
camel she rode. She continually asked for water, and complained of
a severe pain in her side. I had applied a blister to it overnight,
but I suspect the pain it gave her caused her to remove it. Her
master troubled his head very little about her; and her voice was,
in consequence of her sufferings, so feeble, that had I not rode
near her, and supplied her with water, she would have perished from
thirst. At 4.50. came to rugged ground; and at 5.20. mountains closed
in to the left: passed at the foot of one. At six stopped, having
made about twenty-five miles north. I persuaded the girl’s master
to let her remain under my care until she was a little recovered,
as I should then be enabled to bestow more attention on her than
he could, or was inclined to do: at this time she was very cold,
quite speechless, and unable to swallow. I wrapped her up in my
carpet, and made two of her fellow slaves chafe her hands and feet;
but our efforts to save her were useless, and she breathed her last
at eight o’clock, having, poor girl! suffered much agony. Her
fellows in misery exhibited a striking difference between the
mourners of civilized towns and those of savage countries: instead
of screaming, and working themselves up into frenzy, they sat silent,
dejected, and bathed in tears, their scanty meal remaining for a time
unnoticed and untouched. The country of this poor girl was Waday,
where Arabic is spoken. She was handsome, and about fourteen years
of age. She told me in the morning that the fatigue of the day would
kill her; and that I was the only person, except her companions,
who had treated her kindly since she was taken from her mother. She
had been ailing for a long time, as she said; but her master was
a hard man, and she feared to complain.
[Illustration:
_Drawn from Nature by G. F. Lyon._
_On Stone by D. Dighton._
A SLAVE KAFFLE.
_London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821._
_C. Hullmandel’s Lithography._]
Monday, March 6th.—The girl was buried near the road; and at
7.30. we went through a pass called Hormut t’uziz, خرموت
توزيز, for five miles. At ten passed an insulated hill
of gravel, resembling a tent in form, and called El Khayma,
الخيما, or the tent. We proceeded north 25° west through the
pass, a strong south wind blowing. At twelve the tent bore south
15° east four miles. At 1.15. came from an uneven stony desert,
bounded on the right by mountains, to heavy sand, called Wadey
Booatila, وادي قواتلا, or “the father of Atila trees.”
At 2.30. entered a broad pass; had steered from the last bearing
north 16° east four miles. Two little black boys this day rode my
horse, which I led; and one of them showed his gratitude to me by
bringing me as a present, his allowance of dates, tied up in the tail
of his shirt. At 5.45. came through Hormut t’Mohalla, خرموت
المخالّه, or “the pass of the army,” to a broad plain,
on which we stopped at six, having from 2.30. steered north seven
miles. The slaves were very much fatigued, and with great difficulty
came up with us. I always observed that the females were much less
exhausted by travelling than the males; the former walked together
and sung in chorus, nearly the whole day, which enlivened them and
beguiled the way. Lizari had four little girls, of whom the eldest
was about eight, and the youngest four years old; these children
were continually playing and running after each other, yet the
smaller one was always as lively after a day’s march, as at first
setting out: she was apparently so little fatigued in an evening,
as to be frequently reproved for keeping every one awake by her
gambols. There was a merry boy too, who frequently kept the Kafflé
in a roar of laughter, by mimicking the auctioneer who sold him, and
several of his countrymen, at the Morzouk market a few weeks before.
Tuesday, 7th March, very cloudy close weather.—At 7.30. set
out over very uneven stony ground and small sand hills, which
at half a mile to the eastward, increased in size and formed a
large belt of sand, about nine miles in length:—observed very
distant mountains in the same direction. The road was over a bed
of gypsum, partially covered in several places, by sand and white
snail shells. At three passed the natural turret called Bazeen
برزين, and came to the Wadey Klia قليه. We had proceeded
north to Bazeen, and from it N.N.W. Myriads of sand flies distressed
us very much by the sharpness of their bite. At seven we stopped at
the wells and castle of Bonjem بنجم, having made thirty-five
miles. We were all on the alert this night, having been informed
that a party of Orfilly, or Arabs of Benioleed, were encamped in
a small cluster of date trees which were in sight from the well,
and robbing every one that passed. They had tapped all the palms,
and were living on lackbi, and the flesh of any stray camels they
could find. A little artful boy, under pretence of wanting a skin
of water, came to the well to reconnoitre, and on being questioned,
gave some very suspicious answers; however, I suppose the report he
made of our being constantly on guard secured us a quiet rest. A
very heavy dew fell during the night; and we were aware that wild
animals were prowling round us.
Wednesday, March 8th.—Having filled four days’ water, at
twelve went on and encamped about four miles N.W. of Bonjem, to
let the camels feed on the bushes, which were in great number. The
day was very sultry, and the slaves had oil given them to grease
themselves. I observed, that near the wells of Bonjem, the ground
swarms with a species of tick, which attacks man and beast, is very
nimble, and causes severe pain by its bite.
Thursday, March 9th.—We set off at eight in a very thick fog,
which rendered it impossible to distinguish objects at a few yards
distance. Our road was over a hilly gravelly ground, and we passed
one or two Wadeys thickly set with bushes of talhh. Here I had an
attack of hemma, and remained behind with my horse, that I might
lie down and relieve the pain. At about one o’clock, being a
little recovered, I mounted and followed the track of the camels,
but soon lost it in a gravelly plain. I proceeded, in hopes of again
finding it; but as we were amongst steep hills, all of nearly the
same appearance, I could form no idea between which of them the
Kafflé had taken its course. I ascended the highest hill to look
for it, straining my eyes in all directions, but to no purpose:
I succeeded, however, in galloping back to the spot where I had
last seen the tracks, and fired my gun, but nothing replied to me,
or broke on the awful stillness around. My situation now became very
alarming, and my spirits began to sink, when I viewed the fearful
prospect before me, which, if I failed to regain the Kafflé,
threatened me with the horrors of a lingering and painful death.
I examined my saddle-bags, and found that they contained not a single
article of provision; my powder-horn had unfortunately been left on
my camel; my note-book, however, was luckily in my possession, and on
looking over it, I found, what was of some importance to me, that I
had marked all the back bearings. I knew, that whether I advanced or
retraced my steps, I should equally be two days distant from a well,
and was aware that, even in reaching one, I might not have power to
get at the water; my horse, at any rate, was not likely to survive
two days’ privation of it. In this extremity, and not knowing
what direction to take, I found my only resource to preserve life,
supposing I obtained water, would be to kill my poor animal, and
to subsist on his flesh, with the hope of being, in the meantime,
relieved by some passing traveller: but this chance was very remote,
the road we were pursuing being but little frequented; and as to any
other means of extricating myself, I could devise none. After some
time passed in reflecting on what might probably be my melancholy
fate if left on the desert, a sudden impulse induced me to trust
to the guidance of my horse, and, giving him the reins, I allowed
him to take what course he chose, little imagining how nearly I
approached the end of my difficulties. Whilst proceeding on my
way, almost hopeless of extricating myself, and in a direction
quite contrary to that which I had fancied to be the right one,
I unexpectedly perceived that I had crossed the track, and was
actually in a Wadey full of talhh trees, bearing evident marks
of having been recently passed over by our camels. Following this
sure guide, I soon found myself once more in the safe path, and my
feelings at such unlooked for and providential deliverance may be
more easily imagined than described. As I was riding slowly along,
I discovered, out of the track, a poor Negress lying under a bush,
where, overcome by fatigue and illness, she had stopped behind,
unregarded, to die.
Having myself so recently escaped the horrors of a lingering death,
I felt tenfold commiseration for this poor helpless being; and
having with some difficulty placed her on my horse, I took her
quietly along; at such a pace indeed, as much to retard coming up
with my people, whom I found in great alarm about me. They feared
I must have strayed on the desert, or have fallen on the road from
sickness; and such were their kind feelings towards me, that they
sent a camel and a supply of water, provisions, and a carpet, with
two men, to seek for me in all directions. I met them at 5.30. soon
after they set out, and found that the Kafflé had, on my account,
stopped for the night two hours before.
When I took the slave to her master, who was not aware of her being
missing, he gave me no thanks, nor allowed the poor exhausted
creature any food or refreshment; and had I not been present to
prevent it, he would no doubt have added to her sufferings by a
severe beating. We had made, as nearly as I could judge from our
winding roads, N. 15°. E. twenty-five miles.
Friday, March 10th.—At seven we set off; road over small stony
hillocks. As Hadge Mohammed, who was master of the Negress, preferred
riding his camel to letting her do so, I gave her up my horse. We
passed through many Wadeys full of bushes—a light shower at noon,
with the wind from the northward—saw several hares; and many
snakes, not venemous, were killed by the people. I astonished them
by taking one or two live ones in my hand: saw a very large herd
of antelopes, which I was silly enough to follow; but, of course,
without reaching them. At five stopped, having made about twenty
miles N.E. We had a fine night, with much dew. The poor Negress
was very ill and weak, although in no pain; her master pretended
to be convinced that she was only affecting sickness, and beat
her accordingly.
Saturday, March 11th.—At 7.30. A.M. we set out; road as
yesterday. At noon came to the Wadey Zemzem زمزم, in which we
found a well, of apparently Roman workmanship, and 84 feet in depth:
the water was salt, and very putrid. This Wadey is of great length,
running N.E. and S.W. Gherzeh is situated in it, and it runs to the
sea at Tawurgha. We made eight or nine miles north; my poor Maherry
was again very lame; put another sandal on him: fine warm day. A
general washing and greasing took place with the whole Kafflé.
Sunday, 12th March.—We proceeded at 7.30. A.M.; road as yesterday:
had a stock of water for three days. I saw a large bird resembling a
goose in form; body and neck white, wings of a dusky white, barred
with dark brown; it escaped me in the bushes. At four came to a
stony plain, with small shrubs. At six stopped, having made about
twenty miles N.W. by N.: thick oppressive weather, with swarms of
sand flies; the slaves very much fatigued. I saw several coveys
of partridges, and shot some birds resembling thrushes in size,
but with longer tails, and of a reddish brown colour: they fly in
flocks, and in their restlessness and twittering much resemble
sparrows. We lay amongst some bushes, and secured our animals,
as we were on the centre of a desert, and feared their straying.
Monday, 13th March.—We went onwards at 7.30. over a stony plain
until noon, when we came to a broad Wadey of sand, having a few
scattered shrubs, and a strong south wind darkening the air with
clouds of sand. Came to a well, but found it dry: our water was out,
having been distributed without restriction. This caused no little
sensation in the Kafflé, as we were said to be two days from any
other well; fortunately, however, the Arabs, in wandering about,
found one which had been newly made amongst some hillocks, about
a mile from our track. Many flocks of large blue pigeons were
flying round us. I shot one in very good condition. We travelled
north-north-west ten miles.
Tuesday, 14th March.—At 7.30. went on, the weather very fine;
had two fruitless chases after partridges and gazelles. The sick
Negress rode my horse, and was abused every five minutes by her
master for feigning sickness. I yesterday shot an owl of the size
of a dove, and having very beautiful plumage; its eyes were marked
black and yellow in circles, and it had those bunches of feathers,
called horns, on each side the head. This day it became so putrid
that I was obliged to give up the idea of stuffing it. At about
a mile from our resting-place, was the water I have spoken of. We
filled our gerbas there, but it was very bad, and my horse, as in
a former case, refused to drink it. At 5.30. we halted, not having
made more than fifteen miles, as our camels stopped repeatedly to
eat. We went on about north-north-west: passed this day several
spots with young corn growing, belonging to the Orfilly Arabs. The
wadey we were in is called Sofajeen صوفجين, and is of great
extent from east to west.
Wednesday, 15th March.—We found that three of our camels had
strayed in the night, two of mine, and one of Lizari’s. We sent
Arabs in search of them, and waited until noon, when we loaded the
other camels, leaving the loads of the stray ones with two Arabs,
together with some water and provisions. As there was no water for
the slaves, we were obliged to move on, intending to send camels back
from Zleetun, when, fortunately, our wanderers made their appearance.
A fine cold north wind from the sea reminded us that we were once
again in its vicinity. At three, clouds rose round us, and very
heavy rain fell on the neighbouring hills, accompanied by thunder
and lightning: it soon after reached us, and we encamped in a
small wadey, having travelled north six miles. The provisions of
the whole Kafflé had nearly failed, and many of the Arabs had,
during this day, only a handful of dates.
Thursday, 16th March.—Heavy black clouds all round us. At 7.15. we
set off, but at eight were obliged to stop again (having gone
north one mile and a half). The rain falling in torrents, we put up
our tents and goods, as well as the time would admit, on a rising
ground near a wadey, which was soon partially flooded. I sheltered
twenty-six poor shivering girls and four boys in my tent, and we
were of course pretty well crowded. I managed to put dry clothes on
some of them, and to make them more comfortable. At noon the rain
ceased for a time, and we had occasionally light showers during the
rest of the day. Belford and myself sallied out, and, kneeling down,
drank sweet water for the first time since leaving Tripoli, with a
zest greater than any toper ever felt on tasting the most exquisite
wine. I observed that the fresh water caused me very severe pain in
the bowels, and occasioned a sensation of fulness in the chest. A
snake was killed by the Negroes, nearly seven feet in length,
but so much mutilated that it was impossible for me to skin it.
Friday, March 17th.—Last night the poor sick Negress died from
fatigue and the united effects of cold and rain. Showers during the
night. The morning was fine, and at seven we took our road over a
flat of yellow sandy earth, covered with grass and small bushes;
in many places the ground bore marks of the plough. At noon we
had travelled north 10° west, ten miles, when the sky became much
overcast. We lost our road until this period, and now having found
it, proceeded north 20° east. At five the rain came on, and we
encamped on some small hillocks in the wadey, having made fourteen
miles since noon. Total, twenty-four miles. The latter part of our
road was hilly and full of wadeys. Our tents were no sooner pitched
than very heavy rain came on, in a tremendous storm (called Gherra
قرّه by the Arabs): thunder and lightning close to us. The noise
was tremendous, and the wadey before us was quickly filled with a
roaring torrent, sweeping all before it: happily, the tents were on
a rising ground, which prevented them from being washed away. The
mountain torrent continued all night. I had often heard these storms
spoken of, but always imagined that the accounts given of them
were much exaggerated; I now found that the description did not at
all come up to this night’s tempest. Sixteen poor Negresses took
shelter with me, and remained under the carpet, full of gratitude at
being protected from a storm, the noise of which made them tremble.
Saturday, 18th March.—A fine morning; fresh north-east wind
blowing. We had a general clothes drying, and the slaves were
oiled. At nine went on over high hills covered with stinted
bushes. We saw a few Arabs with their cattle and flocks in the
wadeys. At noon, having passed over a green plain, came to the
gardens and corn-fields of Zleetun زليتن. The country was
very flat, and some spots of near a mile in length appeared as if
they had been flooded during the night. The ground was so slippery
that some of the camels fell with their loads, and were with great
difficulty re-loaded and placed upon their legs again. The nature of
the foot of a camel is such, that the animal never falls or stumbles
when on flat or dry ground; even on rocks it is sure-footed, but on
mud it feels its inability to walk, and trembles at every joint,
slipping, or rather sliding as it goes. It sometimes happens that
a fall on wet ground occasions the death of the animal by splitting
open its fore legs. Old Baba Hassein’s camel fell first, with him
upon it, which raised a general shout of joy throughout the whole
Kafflé. The Arabs most religiously believed that the tempest of
yesterday, and the falls of to-day, were owing to his never having
given his Bousaferr; and to the same cause was attributed our many
delays in coming from Sockna, because “Ma fi el Barca مافي
الباركا” there was not the blessing on the Kafflé.
A considerable time elapsed before we succeeded in finding the Gusba,
or Castle; at last, to our great delight, we gained an entrance,
though not till after we had all been well drenched by two or three
heavy showers. My fellow travellers took such rooms as had roofs
water proof, while Belford and myself preferred pitching our tent
in the yard; by that means avoiding, in some measure, the multitude
of fleas found in these buildings. We had travelled this day north
15° east, seven miles.
I think it necessary to mention, that near our last resting-place I
found two Roman ruins, one about a mile north-east of the other. In
one, the foundations of two or three rooms are perfect, as are
the bases of some very large pillars; the other has part of a wall
standing, with several square niches in it. The stones which compose
these buildings are some of them seven feet in length by three in
breadth, and appear to have been mortised into each other.
On our rising the tops of the mountains we observed with great joy
the sea, beating on some shoals at a distance from the shore; but
we could not see the beach, as it was hidden from us by the sands
of Zleetun. To the great astonishment of my fellow travellers,
who no doubt thought me mad, I chanted God save the King, and Rule
Britannia, as loud as I could roar. The poor slaves looked forward
to the mighty river before them with wonder and fear, and I believe
at that moment all the stories they had heard of “the people on the
great waters who eat the Blacks,” recurred to their imagination. It
blew a heavy gale from the north-east, and the white foam added not
a little to the imposing appearance of this (to them) terrific water.
The houses of Zleetun are scattered about amongst palms and olive
trees, which cover a space of ground of three or four miles in
extent. Corn is cultivated in great quantities.
Sunday, 19th March.—This place is particularly blessed in
possessing the remains of a great Marāboot, who is buried in a
really handsome Mosque, ornamented with minarets and neat cupolas,
and white-washed all over. The name of the Saint is Sidi Abd el
Salām. His descendants are much respected, and are called Waled
el Sheikh والدالشيخ, “Sons of the Elder;” they think
themselves authorised to be the most impudent begging set of people
in the whole Regency of Tripoli. I was on the point of kicking out of
my tent one of them who would not understand the monosyllable _no_
in answer to a request which he made me for some powder in the name
and on account of his illustrious ancestor; but luckily Lizari came
in at the moment and prevented me; and he afterwards told me I might
as well have thought of kicking a descendant of the Prophet himself.
The whole of the surrounding country is most luxuriant in corn,
dates, and olives, and is quite level. The Castle in which we
were is of the true Arab character, built of mud and gravel, and
swarming with vermin. The rooms are round the large courtyard,
and their roofs, being flat, are the platforms for one or two
four-pounders. Two markets are held here weekly; one on a Friday, in
front of the Castle, the other on a Tuesday, near the Marāboot’s
tomb. The country is governed by a Mamluke of the Bashaw, who has
the title of Kaid. If I may judge from the number of drunken men who
were at the market, Lackbi is pretty universally drank. I bought
a very fine sheep for a dollar and a quarter. Every thing here,
as in Tripoli, is in the hands of the Jews: they are artisans and
merchants, having dealings from one farthing up to hundreds of
dollars; they also distil brandy from the dates, and find a very
ready sale for it. Some small vessels bring goods to Zleetun; but
as there is no roadsted, they anchor in the offing when the wind is
from shore. Hills of sand obstruct the view of the sea at about a
mile from the houses, and goods are carried that distance by camels.
I here unfortunately lost my black rat, which I had rendered
quite tame; having appeared sick and drooping, I let it out of
its cage, and wrapped it up in my barracan, the warmth of which
so far recovered it, that, to my great regret, it made its escape:
my other animals and serpents were alive and well.
Monday, 20th March.—As the corn was not ready for the slaves, we
were obliged to stop over this day. I was much amused by the songs
of the Negresses while pounding wheat; they sang all their country
airs in chorus, and there was in their wildness much beauty. Their
Boori, or songs used in sorcery, were particularly striking, and they
kept time to the music with their wooden pestles and glass armlets,
which sounded like cymbals. One of the songs was thus explained to
me: the three girls who sung it were pounding in the same mortar,
and regulated their beating according to the circumstances of which
they sung. At first they pounded slowly, one telling the other two
that they must keep up their spirits, as the warriors would soon be
at home, and their lovers would bring more trophies than any one
else; they then increased their time, and sang a song of triumph,
the warriors being supposed to have returned; when suddenly they
beat without measure, singing in a very shrill and rapid manner
as for one who was dead. They then ceased beating altogether, and
sung a trio, in which two endeavoured to comfort the girl who had
lost her lover, she appearing inconsolable. At length they agreed
to have recourse to sorcery, to ascertain if he died nobly. A goat
was supposed to be killed, each of them examining its entrails, and
singing several incantations, until a happy sign was discovered,
when they resumed their pestles, winding up with a very beautiful
chorus. The master of the girls forbade their singing any more, even
though I earnestly requested that they might be suffered to continue;
he said it was unholy, and that they were as great Kaffirs now, as
before they acknowledged our Lord Mohammed to be the Prophet of God.
Tuesday, 21st March.—At eight we left the Castle, and passed over
a sandy flat, the sea being hidden from us by the sand hills. At
noon we crossed a romantic water-course, having a small limpid
stream running through it. We saw here the remains of a magnificent
aqueduct, which once ran to Lebida. At a short distance from one
another were many small edifices resembling the mouths of wells,
which were once used as communications with the aqueduct; these
little buildings are seen all the way to Lebida, and show what course
the aqueduct takes. At two we separated from the Kafflé, and went to
the ruins of Lebida, which stand near the sea, and are surrounded by
sand hills formed against them. The country inland of these hills,
being highly and most luxuriantly cultivated, presents a pleasing
aspect. As I was still very unwell, and little able to walk up the
sand hills, I visited but three or four of the buildings, of which
the lighthouse appeared the most extraordinary. Other ruins, which
have once been fortresses, are formed of immense masses of stone.
The remains of the foundation of the ancient city wall are on
a gigantic scale, and several pillars yet remain of the same
description as those taken away in the Weymouth store-ship. My
time being limited, and this place having before been visited and
described by persons of more science and ability than myself, I did
not attempt to search for any inscriptions. My short visit, however,
afforded me much gratification, and I returned to the track of my
companions, whom I came up with at seven, having travelled north-
north-west thirty miles.
Wednesday, March 22nd.—I found myself much better. Fine morning. At
seven we pursued our course over mountains covered with verdure,
and at nine came to a Roman well standing at the foot of an old
castle, which appeared to have an arched communication with it,
to be used in time of war. This well was in a narrow deep ravine,
which the castle commanded. We found the old Turk and his slaves
waiting for us at the well; they had gone past us in the dark. The
old man was in great wrath; some thieves having come in the night
and robbed him of five hundred weight or a camel load of dates:
suspecting his own hungry Arabs, he had ordered them to lie at a
distance from the sacks. They told him they would pray to God that
he might suffer for his suspicion; and were therefore not sorry to
see him so soon punished for it. Some Bedouins among the rocks in the
pass were the robbers; one of his Negresses saw them in the act, but
feared to wake her master, because he once beat her for disturbing
him while asleep. When the old man related to me his misfortune,
I gave him no consolation, but said I admired the ingenuity of the
thieves; and all our Arabs tauntingly told him that he had now paid
his footing.
We passed many fine corn-fields, and several enclosures with vines
and figs, apparently very flourishing. Many large flocks were feeding
on the plains. At three we stopped, one of Hadje Mohammed’s
camels having fallen from weakness. Lizari’s Maherry followed
his example, on which he sent the Arabs back to kill the animal,
and they brought the meat to the Kafflé, portioning it out to
all. Many hints were given me that I ought to kill my lame animal,
but I would not understand them, as I thought he might still be
serviceable to me. Several Arab wanderers came to partake of our
feast; and we were obliged, when it grew dark, to give warning that
any stranger seen walking near the Kafflé would be fired at. One
of the Sheikhs, who had flocks near us, sent us some oranges, which
we devoured, rind and all, in a moment. Our road had been so very
circuitous that I could not be accurate as to the bearings, but as
near as I could judge we had gone west-north-west eighteen miles.
I was so ill on our march this morning as to be under the necessity
of stopping with the camel I rode, and lying on the ground, an
Arab remaining with me. I was seized with such violent trembling,
that the man was obliged for some time to sit on and hold me down
to prevent my injuring myself. I suffered much agony, and the most
intolerable thirst; to assuage which the kind Arab went about two
miles back on his road to bring me water. He was so long absent,
that I began to despair of his return; my fever each moment
increased, and my thirst, in consequence, became so excessive,
that observing my camel, which was at a little distance from me,
making water, I resolved to attempt reaching him, and endeavouring
to avail myself of a resource, which, under any other circumstances,
would have filled me with disgust. Weak and exhausted as I was,
and with no alternative but to drink, or, as I thought, to expire,
I was about to catch and swallow the nauseous draught, when, at that
moment, I perceived my trusty Arab ascending a hill, and advancing
towards me. Those only who have experienced the agonies of suspense,
or the torments of parching thirst, can conceive my sensations when
he joined me, bringing the wished-for beverage; which, after all,
was only dirty water in a goat-skin, but which I thought delicious,
and drank with delight and gratitude. After about three hours my fit
went gradually off, and my man holding me carefully on the camel,
brought me at nightfall to the Kafflé, which had waited for me. We
were encamped at Wad el Meseed واد المسيد, a river of no
magnitude, running through steep sandy cliffs. We had made about
twenty miles west-north-west.
Friday, 24th March.—I found myself very weak, but much
better. Belford continued quite deaf, but we were in high spirits
at the idea that our journey would soon be at an end, and that we
should once again behold our dear friends. We proceeded at seven,
our road being chiefly along the sea-coast. At eleven passed
Wad el Ramle, or “the sandy river,” which is a small stream,
running through sand hills: on its borders are luxuriant fields of
corn. At three the man whom I had sent forward with a letter to the
Consul brought me news that he proposed coming out to meet us. At
four we entered Tejoura تاجوره. I was on a camel anxiously
looking out for him, when himself, his two sons, Dr. Dickson, and
Messrs. Carstensen, came galloping towards us. I soon slipped down
on my legs, but was obliged to stop them, for they would otherwise
have passed on without recognizing either Belford or myself, so
much was our appearance altered. We pitched our tent in a space
near the great Mosque, and passed the evening most agreeably. The
Consul’s sons remained with me, but the rest of the party were
obliged to go on to Tripoli, promising to meet me on the morrow,
and to accompany me into the town. We had a fine Arab supper cooked
by Lizari’s Negress, and were all Kaffirs enough to drink wine,
and even to eat some pork, when Lizari was out of the way.
Saturday, March 25th, 1820.—Exactly one year from the day we
left Tripoli, we re-entered the town, accompanied by the Consul
and Mr. Carstensen. All our friends received us most kindly, and
I was fortunately enabled on that evening to send a letter to Lord
Bathurst, informing his Lordship of our safe return. I lodged our
goods in the Portuguese consular house, with which Col. Warrington
had kindly accommodated us, though not without having repeatedly
pressed us to make his own house our home.
Notwithstanding my happiness at once more joining my Christian
friends, I really felt no small regret at taking leave of our poor
fellow travellers, many of whom I knew were destined to proceed to
Tunis and Turkey. Their good humoured gaiety and songs had lightened
to me many hours of pain and fatigue, and their gratitude for any
little benefits I had it in my power to confer had quite warmed
my heart towards them. Even when so exhausted as to be almost
unable to walk, these poor creatures showed few instances of
sulkiness or despondency; the first stanza of a song having been
sung by one, enlivened the whole Kafflé, who immediately joined
in chorus. Their patience under fatigue, and endurance of thirst,
was very extraordinary. Khalīfa’s girls were allowed to drink
only once in twenty-four hours, yet they were always cheerful.
I was frequently amused by observing the pains taken by these
innocent savages to adorn themselves; their love of finery never
ceasing, even when no one was near to admire them. Though overcome
by privation of every kind, and by the fatigue of a long day’s
journey, they employed themselves in converting into neck ornaments,
snail shells, berries, or any other whimsical objects they could
meet with. Those who possessed rings, bead bands for the head, or
silver ear-rings, never failed to put them on when they stopped
for the night, washing and oiling their skins whenever they had
an opportunity; they also constantly used Kohol to blacken their
eyelids, and to make different marks on the face.
One of the women of the Fellāta had a little male child, which was
carried by turns by the whole Kafflé. Her milk had failed her, and
this poor infant had nothing to nourish him but a mixture of cold
water and flour, unless I sometimes gave him some cusscussou. He,
as well as his mother, was a shade lighter than a mulatto, which
is generally the colour of their tribe.
Several of the girls carried with them an instrument called
Zantoo. It is a long gourd hollowed out, having a hole at each end,
and is played by striking one end against the calf of the leg, and
occasionally stopping the other by a quick blow of the open hand. It
has a very pleasing effect when well played, and the glass armlets,
which are sometimes worn to the number of eight or ten on each arm,
add to it a pretty tinkling sound. Whenever a party had a little
outwalked the Kafflé, and sat down to rest, the Zantoos were set in
motion, and were accompanied by their plaintive national airs. The
wild music and picturesque appearance of these resting-parties was
very pleasing, and I seldom passed one of them without having a
lively chorus addressed to me.
There is a small bush found on the Desert, called by the slaves
Wussawussa, with leaves resembling those of box in form, but tender,
and having a very salt taste; these the slaves collected whenever
they could, and boiled with their evening meal; and the flavour is
not unpleasant.
In some of the wadeys were many thorny bushes bearing small black
berries, called Dummagh ظماخ or “brains,” which have a
very sweet, but at the same time astringent taste, and of which
these poor girls always brought me large supplies, in return for
my assisting those who were fatigued or thirsty. In fact, Belford
and myself, being the only persons who did not beat or ill treat
them, became great favourites; and my talents in particular were
so highly appreciated, that not a male or female slave tore or wore
out their sandal leathers, but they were immediately brought to me
to be repaired, as I had always some leather in my pocket for that
purpose: I thus became cobbler to the whole Kafflé.
None of the owners ever moved without their whips, which were in
constant use; that of Hadje Mohammed more so than the rest: in
fact, he was so perpetually flogging his poor slaves, that I was
frequently obliged to disarm him. Drinking too much water, bringing
too little wood, or falling asleep before the cooking was finished,
were considered nearly capital crimes, and it was in vain for these
poor creatures to plead the excuse of being tired; nothing could
at all avert the application of the whip. No slave dares to be ill
or unable to walk; but when the poor sufferer dies, the master
suspects there must have been something “wrong inside,” and
regrets not having liberally applied the usual remedy of burning
the belly with a red hot iron; thus reconciling to themselves their
cruel treatment of these unfortunate creatures.
I settled with my camel-men the day after my arrival in Tripoli,
and having great reason to fear that Belford’s health was too
much injured to proceed immediately, I agreed to remain there a
short time, that he might be benefited by the advice of my friend,
Dr. Dickson, who had kindly taken him under his care: he had been
for six months afflicted with dysentery, was quite deaf, and so
reduced as to be nearly a skeleton.
I think it right to account for what otherwise might be attributed
to neglect, my having, in the latter part of our journey, omitted to
notice the variations of the Thermometer from the 28th of February
to the present time. Not using my tent, I found much difficulty, in
so large a Kafflé, in preventing stray camels or the slaves from
treading on the Thermometer; and it was so frequently in danger
of being broken, that I found no correct rate could be kept, and
therefore gave up the attempt.
OF THE DESERT.
Having, from the time of leaving Tripoli until my return from
Fezzan, been constantly on the Desert, I shall endeavour to give
a description of the country so called. In all our maps, Sahāra
is the appellation used to distinguish that immense tract, known
also by the name of the Great Desert.
Oasis is the term used for fertile spots or islands, said to be
situated on the Sahāra; and Fezzan is supposed to be one of these
Oasis: whereas, it is now evident, that it also is a Desert, with the
exception of palms and small gardens, cultivated with great labour
and difficulty, in the immediate vicinity of towns. No herbage
ever grows spontaneously, except in wadeys or amongst rocks; and
these in such small patches, that I never yet saw a spot covered
with verdure of the size of a table, unless in the mountains near
Tripoli. The Arabs have a name for every description of waste or
desert, viz. the following:
1 Sahār سحعره.
2 Ghrood غرود.
3 Sereer سرير.
4 Warry وعر.
5 Hatïa حتيه.
6 Wishek ويشك.
7 Ghraba or Jezeera غابه.
8 Soobker صوبكر.
9 Wadey وادي.
10 Gibel جبل.
Sahār is the name commonly used to particularise that description
of Desert which is of sand alone, forming a plane surface, without
either stones, rocks, water, or any sustenance capable of supporting
animal or vegetable life, with a smooth horizon and without beaten
paths.
Ghrood are those species of sand hills which I mentioned having
once or twice passed in Fezzan: they are of an indefinite height,
some being so steep as to be entirely impassable: others, and indeed
all of this particular name, are traversed with difficulty. In some
instances, palms grow on these hills; which are generally situated
on the borders of stony plains, where the wind has collected and
formed them.
Sereer is the appellation of gravelly plains, from which the sand
has been swept by the force of the winds; and it is on this kind of
Desert alone that sand hills are found. The gravel is generally of
a small size: in some instances, rounded as pebbles on a sea beach;
in others, sharp and pointed, as if recently broken; and a third kind
is not unfrequently seen, covering spaces of many miles in extent,
of stones which have a shining exterior, as if highly polished.
Warr is a rough plain, covered with large detached stones lying in
confusion, and very difficult to pass over. The tops of mountains,
particularly the Soudah, are distinguished by this name: it is,
in fact, applied to such tracts of country as are only travelled
with the greatest fatigue and difficulty, on account of the many
obstacles thrown in the way by stones, small hillocks, &c.
Hatïa implies a spot which possesses, in a slight degree, the
power of fertility, and produces a few small stinted shrubs,
scattered at intervals, on which camels may make a scanty meal,
or travellers a fire.
Wishek: sand hills or plains, which afford only wild, unproductive,
or uncultivated date bushes, are called by this name. All Wishek
bear the appearance of having been formerly what are called
Ghrāba, which is a term always used to distinguish parts which
produce cultivated or fruit-bearing palms, but having no town
near them; the owners of the dates only coming in the season to
collect them. Zezeera is a term also used in common with Ghrāba,
but I believe only by Fezzanners.
Soobker is the designation of salt-plains, which are marshy in
winter, and in summer become broken and rough by the influence
of the sun; or of that particular species found in Fezzan, where
the salt and earth or sand are so closely combined, as to form a
substance resembling stone, and equally hard to cut or break. One
of these plains, between Trāghan and Māfen, is about three or
four miles in the broadest part, and above twenty-five in length.
Wadey is a term of which I have frequently made use, yet I have
given but a slight explanation of. It is a valley in which shrubs
grow, or through which the rains form a temporary stream. Near
Tripoli the Wadeys are sometimes the courses of impetuous torrents;
but in Fezzan, where rain is almost unknown, they are smooth dells,
very rarely producing a single plant. A small rift in the mountains,
capable of containing only eight or ten camels abreast, is as much
a Wadey as a large valley containing a town or towns, and the date
trees belonging to such settlements.
Gibel, or Mountain, is a term I need not explain; but merely as
showing that it is by no means a matter of course that a Desert
must be flat, or nearly so, as even in the kingdom of Fezzan,
mountains are very numerous.
Sahāra, therefore, is only applicable to sandy districts, and
the Arabs only use the word Berr بار, or country, as a general
term. In no part of the Desert, which I have seen, or of which I
could obtain accounts, does it appear that water is found on the
surface: hence it seems extraordinary, that wild animals should
exist; yet antelopes, buffaloes, and some other animals, are,
in different places, very numerous. Rats are frequently found to
burrow in plains twenty or thirty miles distant from shrubs, and
their food is unknown; no birds being found there, and the small
lizards and snakes, as well as the few insects, being too active to
be caught by them. In some parts, the only living creature seen for
many days is a small insect somewhat resembling a spider, called Naga
t’Allah نعقاتالله, or the “She camel of God.” Beetles
are also seen where Kafflés rest, or in the vicinity of shrubs;
and their curious tracks in the sand are so marked, that I have
sometimes traced the same insect for a mile or two as I rode along.
Nothing can be more awful than the stillness which prevails, more
particularly when the surface is sandy. I have sometimes walked
at night from the Kafflé, so as to be beyond the noise made by
the camels or horses, and have experienced a sensation I am unable
to describe, as I felt the wind blow past me, and heard the sound
which my figure caused it to make, by arresting its progress. Near
towns, or in places where animals can exist, the slow melancholy
cry of the hyæna or jackal is frequently heard during the night,
when these animals prowl round the Kafflé.
The appearance of water on the sandy and gravelly deserts is
very frequent, and is generally so well defined, that it would be
difficult to distinguish it from a river, were it possible that both
could be seen at the same time. It is called Shrab شراب by the
Arabs, who often amused themselves by calling to us that water was
in sight, until we became accustomed to the appearance. Of this
curious phenomenon so much has been said by various writers, that
any attempt at description on my part would be unnecessary. The
looming of objects when the sun is at its greatest strength,
is very striking; as from the vapour which rises, they are, at
a slight distance, much obscured. I have frequently, in riding
along, been delighted at observing in the distance, a tree which
appeared sufficiently large to shade me from the sun, and to allow
of my reposing under it, until the camels came up; and have often
quickened my pace in consequence, until, on a near approach, it has
proved to be nothing more than a bush, which did not throw a shade
sufficient even to shelter one of my hands. Sand hills deceive still
more, always appearing very distant when the sun is on them; and
it has often happened, that I have been startled by seeing a man or
camel rise close to me, on the top of one of the apparently distant
hills. The excessive dryness of the Desert is in some places very
extraordinary, particularly to the southward of the Soudah mountains,
where, in going to as well as coming from Fezzan, I observed that
our clothes, and the tails of our horses, emitted electric sparks.
Water is not to be found by digging in all parts of the Desert;
but is more particularly difficult to find in the Sereer, or gravel,
which generally lies over sand stone. In two instances I have seen
remains of pits which had been dug to one hundred feet without
coming to water. The wells which are on the Desert are generally
found in Wadeys or in the sandy country; and in all those I have
seen, the water was salt and putrid, but the putrescence diminished
after a quantity had been drawn. Some wells have only a sufficiency
for the supply of five or six horses at once, and are a long time
before they again fill. These wells which were so scantily supplied,
I observed, were always in a soft clayey rock; but those which kept
themselves tolerably full, were in a yellow clay. The depths vary
from 6 or 8 feet to 70 or 80.
In almost every part of the stony desert, small piles of stones are
frequently discovered, which are erected by travellers as marks to
direct them across the country, or in the event of their missing
their route, to assist them again to find it. These little heaps
are called Aālum علم, or “teachers;” and some become
so remarkable, as to acquire other names, and to be favourite
resting-places for Kafflés.
* * * * *
About the beginning of April, a dangerous fever broke out and was
making great ravages in Tripoli, many of the inhabitants dying daily
in the town and gardens. On my arrival, I made an attempt to obtain
an interview with the Bashaw, but his highness was not at first
sufficiently disengaged to allow of my paying my respects to him. At
the end of a fortnight, however, I was admitted to an audience,
and was accompanied by the British consul; who jointly with myself,
thanked him for the attention which had been shown to the Mission,
by the people of the interior, in consequence of his patronage.
The Bashaw was much amused by my having acquired the language and
accent of Fezzan, and conversed with me for some time, asking me
a variety of questions respecting what had occurred to me on my
journey. He promised, that on the event of my returning to Africa,
I should always be secure of his friendship: and on my taking leave
of him, desired I would offer his compliments to my Sovereign.
It would be useless and uninteresting were I to relate the trifling
incidents which occurred to me during the remainder of my stay at
Tripoli. I shall therefore merely mention, that on the 14th of May
I procured a passage to Leghorn for Belford and myself, taking with
me my horse, which was a gift from the Bashaw, and a Maherry, or
courier camel, which I intended to present to his Majesty George IV.
Dr. Dickson was unwilling to allow of Belford’s undertaking the
voyage, fearing that his weakness would not enable him to resist any
severe weather; but as Belford thought himself equal to the attempt,
and as we were naturally impatient to return to England, I resolved
no longer to delay my departure. I cannot omit the opportunity
here offered me of expressing my sense of the kindness invariably
shown me by Col. Warrington, the British Consul; from whom, as well
as from his family, I received the most unremitting attention. I
can only sincerely lament my total inability to do justice to his
friendship, evinced towards me not only in his official capacity,
but individually, and on all occasions where he had the power of
serving me. To some other most kind friends, who assisted me in
the hour of need, I have also to offer my sincere tribute of thanks.
Myself and suffering companion left Tripoli on the 19th of May; and,
after a passage of ten days, arrived at Leghorn. Belford was again
so ill, that I found it necessary to call in the assistance of a
medical gentleman, who visited him frequently at the Lazaretto. Our
quarantine was twenty-five days, in a good airy situation; on leaving
which we removed to the town, prior to setting out overland for
England. We hastened to change our dresses, and to shave our beards,
though not before we had been unwillingly exhibited to many curious,
and, in some cases, troublesome visitors, who came to view us in
our Moorish costume.
During the time of our quarantine the minister of Mohammed Ali,
the Bashaw of Egypt, honoured me with a visit; and after asking me
many questions, and ascertaining my knowledge of Arabic, made known
to me that his master was about to send, on a progress of discovery,
a large armed force, southward and westward from Egypt, and that he
was particularly anxious to engage some European to accompany them,
in order to survey the countries which they proposed exploring. He
hinted, that on the event of my offering my services, I should,
no doubt, be very flatteringly received, and that a most liberal
allowance would be made for my outfit, as well as for my services;
and the month of November was the period fixed for the departure
of the expedition: in short, he held out so many advantages,
that I only refused on the score of my being in the service of my
own government, who might, perhaps, again require me to return to
Africa. From the plan thus laid down to me, I saw clearly, that
on the event of my accompanying the Bashaw of Egypt’s army, I
could with ease ascertain the situation in which the Niger ended,
as I should have to pass into a country from whence I well knew
how to proceed, and to which, should I ever again return to Africa,
I would immediately make my way.
On the 29th of June we left Leghorn; and passing overland, arrived
in London on the 29th of July, 1820. In travelling through France
I was so severely attacked by ophthalmia, as to be nearly deprived
of sight; but on my arrival in England, I soon recovered. Belford
continued still deaf and much emaciated, and, as I feared, with
little prospect of ever regaining health or strength. I must observe,
in justice to this my faithful, though humble companion, that during
the service on which we were engaged, both prior to, and after the
death of Mr. Ritchie, his conduct was such as to ensure my perfect
esteem and confidence. He did not possess the advantages of birth
or education; but his quiet, unobtrusive manners, and excellent
disposition, made ample amends for these deficiencies. In the most
trying moments, when all distinction between man and man is levelled,
he never lost sight of the respect he considered due to me; but in
sickness faithfully nursed me, and in health implicitly obeyed all
my directions.
On my arrival in London, I waited on Earl Bathurst, to acquaint
his lordship with the result of the mission; and delivered up the
whole of the public papers belonging to the late Mr. Ritchie.
APPENDIX.
=APPENDIX.=
* * * * *
METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER.
MORZOUK.
------------+------------------------+-----------+------------------
| THERMOMETER. | |
DATE. | REAUMUR. FAHRENHEIT. |HYGROMETER.|
------------+-----+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+ WINDS.
| 5 | 2 | 5 | 2 | 5 | 2 |
|A.M. |P.M. |A.M. | P.M. |A.M. |P.M. |
1819. +-----+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+------------------
May 4| 22 | 33 |81.½ |106.¼ | 60 | 54 |East.
5| 22 | 34 |81.½ |108.½ | 61 | 53 |
6| 23 | 33 |83.¾ |106.¼ | 60 | 54 |
7| 21 | 33 |79.¼ |106.¼ | 58 | 53 |East-north-east.
8| 20 | 31 | 77 |101.¾ | 58 | 50 |
9| 21 | 32 |79.¼ | 104 | 60 | 54 |East.
10| 22 | 33 |81.½ |106.¼ | 60 | 51 |East-north-east.
11|23.5 |33.1 | 85 |106.½ | 61 | 52 |East by south.
12| 22 | 34 |81.½ |108.½ | 60 | 53 |North-east.
13|22.2 | 33 | 82 |106.¼ | 58 | 52 |
14| 23 |33.2 |83.¾ |106.¾ | 60 | 51 |
15|23.4 | 34 |84.¾ |108.½ | 61 | 60 |North.
16| 23 | 35 |83.¾ |110.¾ | 63 | 58 |North-east.
17| 22 | 34 |81.½ |108.½ | 64 | 61 |East-north-east.
18|23.8 | 36 |85.½ | 113 | 59 | 54 |East.
19| 23 | 37 |83.¾ |115.¼ | 60 | 54 |
20| 23 | 34 |83.¾ |108.½ | 63 | 60 |
21| 22 | 35 |81.½ |110.¾ | 61 | 56 |
22|21.1 | 34 |79.½ |108.½ | 62 | 59 |
23| 22 | 36 |81.½ | 113 | 60 | 57 |East-south-east.
24| 23 | 37 |83.¾ |115.¼ | 61 | 52 |
25| 24 | 37 | 86 |115.¼ | 61 | 57 |East.
26| 23 | 36 |83.¾ | 113 | 60 | 59 |
27| 23 | 37 |83.¾ |115.¼ | 60 | 54 |North.
28|25.1 | 35 |88.½ |110.¾ | 58 | 60 |
29| 26 | 34 |90.½ |108.½ | 57 | 57 |North-west.
30| 25 | 37 |88.¼ |115.¼ | 56 | 58 |
31|24.2 | 34 |86.½ |108.½ | 59 | 55 |North-east.
June 1| 25 | 38 |88.¼ |117.½ | 56 | 47 |
2|24.3 | 39 |86.¾ |119.¾ | 58 | 43 |
3| 25 | 40 |88.¼ | 122 | 54 | 54 |
4| 25 | 39 |88.¼ |119.¾ | 58 | 56 |South-east.
5| 24 | 38 | 86 |117.½ | 58 | 56 |
6| 24 | 37 | 86 |115.¼ | 57 | 56 |East.
7| 25 | 38 |88.¼ |117.½ | 58 | 51 |East.
8| 26 | 40 |90.½ | 122 | 61 | 58 |
9| 27 | 38 |92.¾ |117.½ | 60 | 58 |
10| 26 | 36 |90.½ | 113 | 61 | 55 |North-east.
11|25.3 | 39 | 89 |119.¾ | 60 | 58 |
12| 26 | 39 |90.½ |119.¾ | 62 | 60 |
13| 25 | 38 |88.¼ |117.½ | 63 | 60 |East.
14| 25 | 37 |88.¼ |115.¼ | 64 | 51 |
15| 24 | 41 | 86 |124.¼ | 62 | 60 |East-north-east.
16| 25 | 38 |88.¼ |117.½ | 61 | 60 |
17| 26 | 41 |90.½ |124.¼ | 62 | 60 |East-south-east.
18| 26 | 40 |90.½ | 122 | 58 | 56 |
19|25.4 | 44 |89.¼ | 131 | 54 | 52 |
20|27.3 |44.8 |93.¼ | 133 | 55 | 54 |North-east.
21|26.1 | 43 |90.¾ |128.¾ | 60 | 58 |
22|27.3 | 42 |93.¼ |126.½ | 63 | 53 |Calm.
23| 26 | 43 |90.½ |128.¾ | 55 | 53 |South-east.
24|26.3 | 42 | 91 |126.½ | 52 | 54 |
25| 26 | 43 |90.½ |128.¾ | 56 | 54 |North-east.
26| 26 | 42 |90.½ |126.½ | 60 | 55 |North.
27|25.3 | 39 | 89 |119.¾ | 60 | 63 |
28| 26 | 38 |90.½ |117.½ | 62 | 60 |
29| 25 | 38 |88.¼ |117.½ | 63 | 63 |
30| 25 | 38 |88.¼ |117.½ | 64 | 62 |East-north-east.
July 1| 25 | 36 |88.¼ | 113 | 60 | 60 |North-east.
2| 27 | 38 |92.¾ |117.½ | 58 | 58 |
3| 28 | 36 | 95 | 113 | 54 | 40 |South.
4| 26 | 36 |90.½ | 113 | 65 | 65 |
5| 27 | 36 |92.¾ | 113 | 64 | 62 |North-east.
6| 26 | 36 |90.½ | 113 | 66 | 66 |
7|25.1 | 35 |88.½ |110.¾ | 62 | 60 |
8| 26 | 36 |90.½ | 113 | 64 | 60 |North-east.
9| 24 | 36 | 86 | 113 | 63 | 60 |
10| 24 | 36 | 86 | 113 | 60 | 60 |
11| 24 | 35 | 86 |110.¾ | 64 | 64 |
12| 24 | 36 | 86 | 113 | 64 | 64 |
13| 24 | 36 | 86 | 90.½ | 62 | 63 |
14| 23 | 36 |83.¾ | 113 | 64 | 64 |
15| 25 | 37 |88.¼ |115.¼ | 62 | 55 |East.
16| 26 | 28 |90.½ | 95 | 55 | 55 |
17|26.3 | 37 | 91 |115.¼ | 60 | 54 |
18| 26 | 38 |90.½ |117.½ | 50 | 50 |
19| 27 | 38 |92.¾ |117.½ | 50 | 50 |
20| 26 | 38 |90.½ |117.½ | 52 | 50 |
21| 22 | 38 |81.½ |117.½ | 50 | 50 |North-east.
22|21.3 | 39 | 80 |119.¾ | 50 | 50 |
23| 22 | |81.½ | | 51 | 50 |North-east.
24| 24 | 40 | 86 | 122 | 50 | 50 |
25| 26 | 39 |90.½ |119.¾ | 50 | 50 |North-east.
26| 27 | 40 |92.¾ | 122 | 52 | 52 |
27|25.1 | 40 |88.½ | 122 | 52 | 50 |
28| 26 | 40 |90.½ | 122 | 52 | 52 |
29|25.3 | 39 | 89 |119.¾ | 52 | 50 |North.
30| 23 |40.3 |83.¾ |122.½ | 55 | 55 |
31| 24 |41.3 | 86 | 125 | 55 | 55 |East.
August 1| 25 | 40 |88.¼ | 122 | 67 | 55 |North-east.
2| 24 | | 86 | | 66 | |North.
3| 25 | 39 |88.¼ |119.¾ | 75 | 67 |East.
4| 23 | 40 |83.¾ | 122 | 77 | 61 |North.
5| 24 | | 86 | | 67 | |
6| 25 | 39 |88.¼ |119.¾ | 70 | 67 |North-east.
7| 25 | |88.¼ | | 72 | |
8| 25 | 40 |88.¼ | 122 | 72 | 64 |South.
9| 22 | 40 |83.¾ | 122 | 74 | 62 |South-east.
10| 25 | 40 |88.¼ | 122 | 80 | 65 |
11| 23 | 45 |83.¾ |133.¼ | 74 | 60 |East-north-east.
12| 23 | 41 |83.¾ |124.¼ | 69 | 68 |South.
13| 24 |40.1 | 86 |122.¼ | 66 | 55 |East-south-east.
14| 23 | 41 |83.¾ |124.¼ | 72 | 60 |East.
15| 24 | 44 | 86 | 131 | 68 | 56 |South-east.
16| 26 | 42 |90.½ |126.½ | 60 | 56 |
17| 26 |42.2 |90.½ | 127 | 71 | 58 |
18| 26 | 42 |90.½ |126.½ | 64 | 60 |East.
19|25.1 |41.5 |88.½ |125.¼ | 71 | 59 |
20| 20 |42.5 | 77 |127.½ | 70 | 59 |South-east.
21| 26 |43.5 |90.½ | 130 | 69 | 56 |
22| 25 | 43 |88.¼ |128.¾ | 66 | 56 | {
23|25.8 |42.5 | 90 |127.½ | 67 | 57 |East. {
24| 24 | 38 | 86 |117.½ | 76 | 66 |South-east. {
25|25.5 |40.5 |89.¼ | 123 | 71 | 70 |East-south-east.{
26| 24 | 38 | 86 |117.½ | 76 | 66 |East-north-east.{
27| 23 | 39 |83.¾ |119.¾ | 75 | 61 | {
28| 24 | 41 | 86 |124.¼ | 70 | 61 |North-east. {
29| 23 | 42 |83.¾ |126.½ | 69 | 67 |East. {
30| 28 |43.5 | 95 | 130 | 67 | 60 |South-east. {*
31|24.5 |43.5 | 87 | 130 | 65 | 53 | {
September 1| 26 | 45 |90.½ |133.¼ | 64 | 55 | {
2| 26 | 42 |90.½ |126.½ | 61 | 52 | {
3| 25 | 43 |88.¼ |128.¾ | 64 | 55 | {
4|25.5 | 43 |89.¼ |128.¾ | 63 | 55 | {
5| 27 | 41 |92.¾ |124.¼ | 67 | 60 |East-north-east.{
6| 26 | 42 |90.½ |126.½ | 67 | 55 |East. {
7|24.8 | 41 | 88 |124.¼ | 67 | 60 |South-east.
8| 26 | 41 |90.½ |124.¼ | 69 | 59 |
9| 24 | 42 | 86 |126.½ | 70 | 55 |
10|24.5 |41.5 | 87 |125.¼ | 69 | 60 |
11|24.8 |41.5 | 88 |125.¼ | 69 | 55 |South-east.
12| 25 |42.5 |88.¼ |127.½ | 66 | 55 |
13|25.8 | 41 | 90 |124.¼ | 55 | 55 |East-south-east.
14| 25 | 42 |88.¼ |126.½ | 66 | 56 |South-east.
15| 26 | 40 |90.½ | 122 | 69 | 65 |East.
16|25.5 | 37 |89.¼ |115.¼ | 74 | 71 |East-north-east.
17| 23 | 39 |83.¾ |119.¾ | 81 | 66 |
18| 23 |40.2 |83.¾ |122.½ | 75 | 63 |South-east.
19| 23 |39.5 |83.¾ | 121 | 71 | 63 |East-north-east.
20|22.2 |39.5 | 82 | 121 | 69 | 60 |
21| 23 |39.5 |83.¾ | 121 | 69 | 60 |
22| 24 |39.5 | 86 | 121 | 69 | 60 |
23| 22 | 39 |81.½ |119.¾ | 67 | 59 |South-east.
24| 23 |38.4 |83.¾ |118.½ | 68 | 61 |
25|22.8 | 39 |83.¼ |119.¾ | 74 | 61 |
26| 23 |39.5 |83.¾ | 121 | 72 | 60 |
27|23.2 | 38 | 84 |119.¼ | 70 | 62 |
28|22.5 |39.5 |81.½ | 121 | 71 | 59 |
29| 24 |37.8 | 86 | 117 | 82 | 72 |
30|22.6 |36.8 | 83 | 115 | 82 | 72 |
October 1| 23 | 36 |83.¾ | 113 | 84 | 72 |
2| 20 | 36 | 77 | 113 | 83 | 72 |East.
3| 19 | 32 |74.¾ | 104 | 85 | 72 |
4|16.8 | 32 | 70 | 104 | 86 | 70 |South-south-west.
5| 16 |32.4 | 68 | 105 | 80 | 68 |
6| 15 |32.5 |65.¾ | 105 | 76 | 67 |South.
7| 17 | |70.¼ | | 77 | |South-west.
8| 20 | 33 | 77 |106.¼ | 90 | 76 |North.
9|15.8 | 31 |67.½ |101.¾ | 82 | 72 |North-west.
10|16.7 |31.2 |69.½ |102.¼ | 86 | 75 |South.
11| 17 | 32 |70.¼ | 104 | 91 | 75 |South-west.
12|17.3 |32.4 | 71 | 105 | 85 | 73 |South.
13| 17 | 33 |70.¼ |106.¼ | 83 | 69 |
14| 17 |33.2 |70.¼ |106.¾ | 80 | 65 |
15|15.5 | 33 | 67 |106.¼ | 76 | 63 |
16|16.1 |35.1 |68.¼ | 111 | 74 | 59 |South-east.
17|19.5 | 35 | 76 |110.¾ | 68 | 55 |South.
18| 19 |35.5 |74.¾ | 112 | 65 | 52 |
19| 18 | 36 |72.½ | 113 | 62 | 53 |
20| 18 | 34 |72.½ |108.½ | 62 | 56 |
21|17.5 |35.5 |71.½ | 112 | 67 | 60 |South-east.
22| 18 |36.5 |72.½ | 114 | 68 | 59 |South.
23| 17 |36.5 |70.¼ | 114 | 68 | 59 |
24|16.8 |34.8 | 70 |110.½ | 68 | 57 |
25| 18 | 35 |72.½ |110.¾ | 67 | 55 |
26| 17 | 33 |70.¼ |106.¼ | 65 | 60 |
27|14.8 | 31 |65.¼ |101.¾ | 67 | 63 |
28| 14 | 33 |63.½ |106.¼ | 63 | 59 |
29|13.2 | 27 | 62 | 92.¾ | 68 | 54 |South-west.
30|12.5 | 29 | 60 | 97.¼ | 64 | 60 |
31| 13 |28.4 |61.¼ | 96 | 63 | 58 |
November 1| 12 | 24 | 59 | 86 | 65 | 57 |West.
2|11.5 | 23 | 58 | 83.¾ | 68 | 55 |
3| 14 | 26 |63.½ | 90.½ | 65 | 51 |North-west.
4|12.5 | 22 | 60 | 81.½ | 68 | 52 |North.
5| 11 | 27 |56.¾ | 92.¾ | 59 | 59 |
6|10.5 |25.2 |55.½ | 88.¾ | 59 | 54 |
7|12.2 | 28 |59.½ | 95 | 57 | 54 |North-west.
8| 10 | 24 |54.½ | 86 | 58 | 54 |
9| 7.5 |22.4 | 49 | 82.½ | 59 | 51 |
10| 9.5 | 25 |53.¼ | 88.¼ | 61 | 60 |
11| 8.8 |24.2 | 52 | 86.½ | 60 | 51 |West-south-west.
12| 9 |22.4 |52.¼ | 82.½ | 61 | 53 |
13|10.2 | 27 | 55 | 92.¾ | 60 | 50 |
14| 14 | 29 |63.½ | 97.¼ | 58 | 54 |
15|14.2 | 27 | 64 | 92.¾ | 54 | 54 |North-east.
16|11.2 | 25 |57.¼ | 88.¼ | 58 | 51 |West.
17|10.4 | 27 |55.½ | 92.¾ | 57 | 52 |
18|14.2 | 29 | 64 | 97.¼ | 51 | 50 |East.
19| 14 | 31 |63.½ |101.¾ | 51 | 51 |
20| 11 | 30 |56.¾ | 99.½ | 57 | 58 |
From this time until the third of December Belford and I were
confined to our beds.
December 4|10.2 |22.4 | 55 | 82.½ | 54 | 52 |Westerly.
5|11.4 |27.2 |57.½ | 93.¼ | 58 | 54 |West.
6| 9.2 | 25 |52.¾ | 88.¼ | 59 | 58 |
7| 8.5 | 22 | 51 | 81.½ | 58 | 60 |North.
8|11.2 | 25 |57.¼ | 88.¼ | 61 | 54 |North-west.
9| 10 | 27 |54.½ | 92.¾ | 58 | 51 |
10|12.2 | 26 |59.½ | 90.½ | 51 | 51 |East.
11| 11 | |56.¾ | | 53 | |
12| 10 |25.2 |54.½ | 88.¾ | 56 | 50 |East-north-east.
13| 9.5 | 20 |53.¼ | 77 | 59 | 52 |North.
------------+-----+-----+-----+------+-----+-----+------------------
[*: Fevers very prevalent, and often fatal.]
We set out at this time on our journey to the south; for account
of Thermometer see Journal.
OBSERVATIONS.
I here subjoin a short account, by Professor Buckland of Oxford,
of a few specimens of the rocks and minerals of Tripoli and Fezzan,
which I was enabled to collect in the course of my tour.
It appears to Mr. Buckland, from these specimens, that the kingdoms
of Tripoli and Fezzan present, in their geological structure,
a striking resemblance to the rocks of Europe; and are composed
of strata, which are distinctly referrible to the three following
formations:
1. _Basalt._
2. _Tertiary Limestone, of nearly the same age with the Calcaire
Grossier of Paris._
3. _New Red Sand Stone._
1. The Basaltic Rocks appear to constitute the great chain of the
Soudah or Black Mountains, near the northern extremity of the
kingdom of Fezzan, not far from Sockna; they extend in breadth
nearly 100 miles from north to south, and run as far as the eye
can reach from east to west.
2. The Tertiary Limestone, or Calcaire Grossier, containing marine
shells in a state of delicate preservation, is found in Tripoli,
on the two opposite edges of the desert that lies between the town
of Benioleed and castle of Bonjem, and appears to be of the same
age and formation with depositions of a similar kind that occur
in Malta and Sicily, and on the north side of the Mediterranean,
on the coasts of Italy and France.
3. The New Red Sand Stone formation appears under its usual form
of loose red sand, accompanied by salt and gypsum, and associated
with beds of a calcareous breccia, cemented by magnesian limestone,
and with beds of compact dolomite.
There are no primitive rocks, and one specimen only which seems
referrible to a granular quartz rock, more ancient than the new
red sand stone.
A short descriptive catalogue of the specimens which have been
brought home, with the assistance of the map in which all the names
alluded to are inserted, will give the most ready information they
are calculated to afford.
The specimens are as follow:
BASALT.
No. 1. Basalt, nearly black, much impregnated throughout with
carbonate of lime, and interspersed with small circular cells,
that are partly or wholly filled with common or with magnesian
carbonate of lime. The decomposition of this rock forms small
spherical fragments of considerable hardness, the surface of which,
by long exposure, has acquired a kind of polish or glossy aspect,
and is irregularly pitted or indented all over with small cavities
of various depths, from the destruction of the calcarous matter
that originally filled them.
A similar appearance of glossy polish is found on all the calcareous
specimens from this country, which appear to have been long exposed
to the action of the atmosphere. In some of these the surface
is entirely smooth and even; in others, it is furrowed over with
minute grooves and channels, intersecting each other with irregular
curvatures, and resembling the appearance produced on the surface
of compact limestone that has been submitted to the action of acids,
or corroded by small marine worms.
It is not easy to determine the cause of this irregular destruction
of the surface of limestone, whose substance appears to be entirely
uniform: it is probably the same that gives it the glossy polish;
but it seems doubtful, whether the agent producing it be the
continual drifting of fine siliceous sand, or the action of the
atmosphere under exposure to a burning sun. A similar gloss appears
on the surface of many fragments of flint and compact siliceous
limestone that have been long exposed on the surface of the soil,
on the summit of Martre near Paris; and in this case, I think,
it can only be referred to the action of the sun and atmosphere.
The chain of the Soudah or Black Mountains appears to be composed
of this basalt; they rise to an elevation of about 1500 feet,
being situated at a short distance on the south from Sockna,
and extending about 100 miles in breadth from north to south,
and in length as far as the eye can reach, from east to west; they
are perfectly barren, of irregular form, occasionally broken into
detached masses, and sometimes rising into cones. Their elevated
plains are in some parts covered with the small spherical shining
fragments above described. The latitude of this chain is from
28·40. to 27·30. north. Traces of basalt occur also near Tripoli,
in lat. 32. at a spot called Black Dog, on the north of Beneabbas,
and in a valley through which the road passes from Beneabbas to
Benioleed.
2. An unrolled agate from Om el a Beed, near Zeghen, on the south
of the Black Mountains. The occurrence of fragments of basalt, in
this same neighbourhood, renders it probable that basaltic rocks
exist in Situ, near the Pass of Kenair.
TERTIARY FORMATIONS.
3. Two species of cardium, in a state of delicate preservation,
resembling that of the shells of Grignon, near Paris, and embedded in
a loose white sand, which has the appearance and degree of adhesion
of coarse white sugar, from a gravelly plain on the north of Bonjem.
4. Slightly crystalline limestone, of a dark yellow colour, and
loaded with fragments of organic remains, amongst which the most
distinct are referrible to the genus Ostrea and Pecton. It is found
in a mountain of Tripoli, thirty miles south of Benioleed. This
limestone appears to be nearly of the same era with the Calcaire
Grossier of Paris, and is separated only by a large desert plain
from the deposit of shells last mentioned at Bonjem. The probable
connexion of these strata with the tertiary formations in other
adjacent parts on the coast of the Mediterranean, has been already
suggested.
5. Soft, highly calcareous marl stone, of a light mottled gray
colour, resembling in appearance the chalk marl of England: it is
said occasionally to be streaked with red, and to contain modules
of flint. It occurs in the Mountains of Mejdool, in lat. 26.
6. Quartzose sand dispersed through a matrix of indurated green clay,
and affording the materials of which the town of Traghan is built.
It is probable that these two last specimens, 5 and 6, are from
strata not more ancient than the chalk of England, and possibly
connected with the tertiary formations, No. 3 and 4.
NEW RED SAND STONE.
7. Sand collected fifty miles on the north of Sockna, during a gale
of wind from the drift sand, which is blown about the desert. It is
composed of extremely minute grains of red semi-transparent quartz;
observed with a lens, these grains appear to be rounded fragments,
and present no crystalline facets. They possess, in a strong degree,
that peculiar tint of red, which has caused the name of red sand
stone to be applied to certain extensive formations which it pervades
in Europe.
The frequent occurrence of salt springs, and of rock salt and
gypsum in the deserts of Africa, goes far to identify the sand
of this continent with the new red sand in the south of England,
which is characterised by containing similar mineral substances. It
is still farther allied to it in being accompanied by strata of
calcareous breccia and beds of limestone; in all of which magnesia
is a considerable ingredient.
8, 9, 10. Ferruginous concretions, forming aetites or geodes in
the red sand shore. The broken fragments are compact, sonorous,
and of a dark liver colour, having a shining polished surface. The
sand which formed their matrix still adheres to the exterior of
some of them. They occur on a plain and a mountain near Om el
a Beed. In lat. 27°⁵⁄₁₀: they are here so abundant, as
almost entirely to cover the ground, and impart to it a dark red
colour. This accumulation of them probably arises from the wind
having drifted away the fine sand, in which they were formed,
leaving behind the heavy bodies in question.
A little farther north, at the foot of the Pass of Kenair, near some
steep sand hills, is a narrow bed almost entirely composed of tubular
concretions of iron of similar origin, irregularly ramifying through
the sand like roots of trees, and producing a rugged appearance,
which at first sight resembles a bed of lava.
11. Flat lamina of variegated sand stone, held together by a
calcareous cement, and covered on each side by small spherical
tubercles closely studded by the side of each other. Similar
concretions are common in the imperfect beds of sand stone strata
of all formations.
12. Flesh-coloured marl, full of small irregular crystals of
selenite. The colour of this marl resembles that of the rock marl
of England: it is from a plain near Gatrone, lat. 25°.
13. Fibrous gypsum passing into foliated, apparently from a matrix
of ochreous marl stone.
14. Crystals of calcareous spar imbedded in yellow-ochre. Found
with No. 13, in the same mountain with the Calcaire Grossier, No. 4,
thirty miles south of Benioleed.
15 and 16. Fibrous and foliated gypsum from a similar matrix of
ochreous marl to No. 13 and 14, and found on the same plain, near
Bonjem, with the two species of cardium, No. 3.
It is probable these last four specimens come from a stratum more
nearly allied to the gypsum formation of Paris than to the red marl
to which I have referred the other specimen of gypsum, No. 12.
MAGNESIAN LIMESTONE, OR DOLOMITE.
17. Limestone, very compact, and strongly impregnated with magnesia,
and is of a yellowish white colour; occurs split into small laminated
fragments, like broken tiles. The ground is covered with these
fragments, which break and rattle under the feet like pottery. It
is found in the plain between Zuela and Omesoguin, lat. 26°.
18 and 19. From the plain that lies between the Black Mountains and
Pass of Kenair. Both these specimens are compact limestone, of a
dark flesh colour, and contain much magnesia. This plain is covered
with small shining fragments of this limestone, particularly near
El Gaaf; and their exposed surfaces are corroded and furrowed over
with the small irregular grooves and channels already mentioned in
the note to No. 1.
20. Flesh-coloured dolomite, mottled with yellow. From the north
base of the Black Mountains.
21. Hard compact dolomite, of an ochre yellow colour. From the Well
of Gutfa, between the north base of the Black Mountains and town
of Sockna.
22 and 23. Brecciated dolomite, of yellowish white colour, full of
knobs and concretions of the same. Found on the plain near Sockna.
24 and 25. Brecciated dolomite, of dark flesh colour, full of small
angular concretions of the same substance, but in more compact
state than that which forms the cement by which they are held
together. These are found near the compact flesh-coloured dolomite,
No. 18 and 19, in the plain of El Gaaf.
All the above specimens, from 17 to 25, are much impregnated with
magnesia, and distinctly referrible to similar strata that form
subordinate beds in the new red sand-stone formation of England;
and they seem to occupy a similar position in the red sand-stone
of the desert plains that lie on the north and south side of the
basaltic chain of the Black Mountains in Fezzan.
26. A pudding-stone, composed of pebbles of dolomite, united
by a granulated calcareous cement. Taken from a Roman castle at
Bonjem. The surface of this specimen has the same glossy polish
which has been before mentioned in some others.
27. Specimen of the materials of which the Castle of Zuela and many
other old castles are constructed. It is an artificial compound,
made up of small grains of quartz of the size of millet seed,
imbedded in a cement or paste of yellowish marl, which effervesces
rapidly with acids: there is no more marl than is sufficient to
hold together the grains of quartz. Buildings are constructed of
this material by pressing the composition into cases, which are
removed when it is dry.
28. Milk-white compact carbonate of lime. From the plain between
the Black Mountains and Pass of Kenair. It is beautifully furrowed
over with small channels and grooves, like No. 18 and 19.
29. White limestone, of coarser grain. From ditto.
30. White limestone, filled with grains of fine white quartz. From
ditto.
31. White limestone. From the north base of the Black Mountains.
32. Compact yellow carbonate of lime, having a polished glossy
surface, beautifully furrowed, and resembling a bit of yellow
bees’ wax. From the north base of the Black Mountains.
These last specimens of carbonate of lime are found with those of
dolomite described immediately before, and seem to belong to the
same formation with them.
It appears then, as far as can be collected from the few specimens
above described, that on each side of the central basaltic chain
of the Soudah or Black Mountains, the plains of the desert are
composed of red sand and sand-stone, containing gypsum and rock
salt, and associated with beds of dolomite and common carbonate of
lime. All these characters identify most distinctly the sand of the
desert of Africa with the new red sand-stone of England. There are
no specimens which indicate the existence of any other formations
on the south side of the Black Mountains from lat. 29° to 24°,
except the marl-stone and green clay (No. 5 and 6); which lead us
to suspect strata of tertiary formation in lat. 26°, near Mejdool,
on the east of Morzouk. At the north base of the central chain,
strata belonging to the same red sand-stone formation seem to extend
nearly to Bonjem on the frontiers of Fezzan and Tripoli; where the
basis formations appear, and probably repose on them in irregular
patches in the desert that divides this place from the mountains
on the north of the town of Tripoli. These mountains extend east
and west nearly parallel to the coast of the Mediterranean, from
long. 15° to 13°; but as no specimens have been brought home from
them, it is impossible to do more than conjecture to what formation
they belong: from notices inserted in the map, they appear to contain
trap and calcareous rocks. The nearest point from which we have a
specimen is Benioleed (No. 4): and this is probably referrible to
the calcaire grossier of Paris.
One solitary specimen from the eastern extremity of these calcareous
mountains possesses no character sufficiently distinct to show
whether it be calcaire grossier or jura limestone. It seems, however,
to belong to one of these two formations.
The only specimen remaining to be described is No. 34; a yellow
quartzose sand-stone, having a glassy fracture, and in some of
its component grains having a sapphire blue colour. It resembles
the sandstone of which is composed the statue of the Old Memnon in
Egypt; and was found near the north base of the Black Mountains. As
it is not a rolled pebble, it indicates, that in addition to basalt
there are strata of ancient quartzose sandstone in this chain,
which forms nearly the centre of the line along which the specimens
above described have been collected.
INDEX.
* * * * *
_Afno_. See _Soudan_.
_Aghades_, a district of Soudan, notice of, 131, 132.
_Agrab el rah_, or scorpion of the wind, notice of, 184.
_Agram_, salt lakes of, 245. Probably the same with the salt lakes
of Domboo, ibid.
_Agriculture_, of the Arabs, 44. Of Fezzan, 275.
_Amaymet Saad_, pass of, 305
_Amusements_, of the African Arabs, 52.
_Animals_, found in Fezzan, 271—273.
_Antiquities_, ruins of, discovered at the well of Bonjem, 66. Near
the castle of Zleetun, 334. At Zelida, 337, 338.
_Ants_, devastation of, in Fezzan, 187, 188.
_Arabs_, general character of, 38, 39. Their dress, 39, 40. Arms,
40. Two classes of, 41. Their tents described, ibid. Government of
their tribes, 42. Religion, ibid. Marriages, 42, 43, 299. Their
cattle, accustomed to subsist without water, 44. Their agriculture,
ibid. Produce of their flocks, 45, 46. Quality and value of their
horses, 46, 47. Mode of shoeing adopted by them, 48. Diet of the
Arabs, 48—52. Their amusements, 52. Forms of courtesy, 53. Their
ignorance respecting Europe, 53, 54. Account of the tribe, called
Waled Suliman, 54, 55. Notice of the Orfilly tribe, 34—36. And of
the tribes of Sockna and the frontier of Fezzan, 79, 80. Their
method of preparing meat for a journey, 219.
_Areg el Libben_, (village), 205.
_Arms_ of the Tripolines and Arabs, 40, 41. Of the Tuarick, an
African tribe, 110.
_Aseēda_, an Arabian dish, how prepared, 49, 50.
_Aselis_, a species of reptile at Morzouk, described, 184.
_Atila_, an Arabian dish, how prepared, 50.
_Baba Hassein_, a Turkish trader, anecdotes of, 303, 304, 310. Is
plundered by some Arabs, 338.
_Bahr el Ghazal_, a province in the interior of Africa, notice of,
127. Productions, ibid. Dress and manners of the inhabitants, 127,
128. Vast quantities of petrified bones found there, 128.
_Bairam_, feast of, how observed, 108, 109.
_Barracan_, an article of African dress, described, 17, 39.
_Barter_, singular mode of, 302.
_Bashaw_ of Tripoli, public progresses of, described, 15, 16.
Funeral of his grand-daughter, described, 19, 20. Interview of the
author with, on his return from the interior, 349.
_Bastinado_, punishment of, how inflicted, 17.
_Baths_ of Tripoli, described, 16, 17.
_Batus_ or _Battus_, (Mountain), 22. Account of the Sheikh of, 27,
28. And of the Jews who are resident there, 28.
_Bazeen_, an Arabian dish, how prepared, 49, 50.
_Bedouins_, or wandering Arabs of Northern Africa, account of, 41—54.
_Belford_ (John) accompanies the mission to Africa, 2. His Arabic
appellation, 7. In imminent danger of being stung by a venomous
snake, 82. Is employed to construct a carriage for the Sultan of
Morzouk, 179. Success of his work, 180, 181. Account of his
illness, 194, 195, 241, 247, 350. Returns to England, 351.
The author’s honourable testimony to his character, ibid.
_Bello_, a Fellata chief, account of, 138.
_Ben Arief_, mountain and pass of, 301.
_Beneish_, an article of Tripoline dress, described, 6.
_Benewaleed_,}town of described, 161—163.
_Benewazeed_,}
_Benghāzi_, (town) itinerary to, 243. And from thence to Derna,
ibid, 244.
_Beni abbas_, a village in the Gharian mountains, arrival at, 25.
Description of its subterraneous habitations, ibid, 26. Hospitable
reception of the author and his party, by the Sheikh of, 26, 27.
_Benioleed_, village of, 34. Wretched condition of its inhabitants,
ibid, 35, 36. Their number, 36.
_Bergoo_, or _Borgoo_ country, productions of, 251, 255. Character
and manners of the inhabitants, 251, 252, 254. Arab mode of
making them captives, 255. Itinerary from Tegerry to, 264.
And from Borgoo to Waday, 267.
_Bidriah_, an article of Tripoline dress, described, 6.
_Bilma_, itinerary to, from Tegerry, 265.
_Bir el Wishki_, well of, 298.
_Birnie_, a town in the Bornou country, account of, 123. Bearings of
various places there, 126, 127.
_Bones_, (petrified), discovered in the interior of Africa, 128.
_Bonjem_, (well of), 65. Account of Roman antiquities in its
vicinity, ibid, 66. Revisited by the author, on his return to
Tripoli, 327.
_Borgoo_. See _Bergoo_.
_Bornou_ (country), boundaries of, 123. Vocabulary of its language,
122. Chief towns, 123. Rivers and lakes, 124, 125. Dependent
provinces of, 126—128. Bearings of different places in, 126, 127.
Government, 128, 129. Dress and customs of the people of Bornou,
130. Itinerary from Kashna to, 141. Exports to, from Fezzan,
152—154. Imports thence, 154—157. Articles of commerce between
Bornou and the Tibboo, 159. Description of the women of
Bornou, 161.
_Bornouse_, or African and Arab cloak, described, 6.
_Bouzafer_, a kind of footing analogous to that of crossing the
line, notice of, 81.
_Bread_, Arab mode of baking, 51.
_Buckland_, (Professor), observations of, on the rocks and minerals
of Tripoli and Fezzan, 361. Basaltic rocks, ibid, 362. Tertiary
formations, 361, 363. New red sandstone, 361, 364—366. Magnesian
limestone, 366—369.
_Buffaloes_ of North Africa, notice of, 76.
_Bugs_ of Fezzan, 186.
_Burials_, African mode of, 19, 20. Account of the burial-places at
Morzouk, 99.
_Camels_, extraordinary mode of travelling on, 114, 115. Arab mode
of firing, when lame, 301. Water, how obtained from the stomach of,
to satisfy the thirst of almost perishing travellers, 305.
_Cannibalism_ practised at Yemyem, 142, 143.
_Castle_ of Morzouk, description of, 98, 99.
_Cattle_ of the Arabs, accustomed to subsist without water, 44. High
prices of, at Morzouk, 177.
_Charms_, prevalence of, among the Arabs, 31, 52.
_Coffee_, a preventive of thirst in hot climates, 93.
_Commerce_, articles of, between Fezzan, Soudan, Bornou, and Waday,
152—157. Between Fezzan and Egypt, 157—159. Between Bornou and the
Tibboo, ibid. Between Tuat and the Tuarick, ibid, 160.
_Corn_, African mode of grinding and preparing, 178.
_Corna_, a species of fruit, notice of, 274.
_Cookery_ of the Arabs, described, 49—51.
_Costume_ of the Tripoline men, described, 6, 7. Of the women, 17,
18. Of the Arabs, 39, 40. Of the people of Sockna, 73. Of the
Tuarick, an African tribe, 109, 110. Of Bornou, 130. Of the women
of Bornou and Soudan, 161. Of the inhabitants of Morzouk, 168—172.
Particularly of the children and court of the Sultan, 176, 177. Of
the Tibboo women, 225, 226. And of the Tibboo men, 228.
_Courtsey_, forms of, among the Arabs, 53. And among the Tibboos,
232.
_Cuscussou_, an Arabian dish, how prepared, 48, 49.
_Dahr t’Moumen_, plain of, 81.
_Dances_, indelicate, of the Northern Africans, 63. Account of the
dances at Morzouk, 172—175. And of a Tibboo dance, 226, 227, 233.
_Date-trees_, at Sockna, notice of, 72. Notice of the date harvests,
163. And of the dome-date, 242, 245. Mode of preserving dates at
Sockna, 320.
_Deesa_, a species of rusk, used as fodder for horses, 236.
———, (village), hospitable reception of the author at, 257, 258.
_Derna_, (town), itinerary to, 243, 244.
_Desert_, near Tripoli, described, 21. Of Sbir ben Afeen, 83.
Perilous travelling through, 84. Of five days’ journey through,
305—312. Description of the Great Desert, 344. Various appellations
given to parts of it, ibid, 345, 346. Awful stillness of, 347.
Phenomenon of the Seráb, 347. Wells, occasionally found there, 348.
Extreme heat of the desert, 83.
_Dgleim_, village of, 87.
_Diseases_, prevalent at Morzouk, and their treatment, 106, 107.
_Doodroo river_, course of, 133.
_Door_, a species of worm, notice of, 300. Prepared as an article of
food, 301.
_Drawing_, not prohibited by the Arabs, 291.
_Dress_ of the Tripoline men, 6, 7. Of the Tripoline women, 17, 18.
Of Bornou, 130. Of the women of Soudan and Bornou, 161. The men at
Morzouk, 169, 170. And of the women, 170, 171. Especially of the
children and court of the Sultan, 176, 177. Of the Tibboo women,
225, 226. And men, 228.
_Drunkenness_, prevalence of, at Tripoli, 13.
_Dummagh_, a mountain shrub, notice of, 29.
_Dupont_, (M.) joins the mission to Africa, as naturalist, 1.
Assumes an Arabic appellation, 7. Resigns his office, 20.
_Dweeda_, an Arabian dish, how prepared, 50.
_East wind_, effects of, 94.
_Education_, state of, at Morzouk, and in Fezzan, 186, 187.
_Effa_, a venomous snake, account of, 82.
_Egypt_ and Fezzan, state of the commerce between, 157—159.
_El Bakki_, (village), notice of, 234.
_El Bedere_, bearings of, 211.
_El Gaaf_, hills of, 307.
_El Grarat Arab Hoon_, plain of, 69.
_El Guasem_, (village of), 29.
_El Ramle Gebeer_, a range of sand hills, 307.
_El Kelb Assoud_, (mountain), 23.
_El Khayma_, mount, bearings of, 325.
_El Maytba_, Bayda and Soudah, plains of, 308.
_El Ramle Kebeer_, sand hills of, 83.
_El Ramle Shraya_, sands of, 83.
_El Wiakh_, well of, 267.
_Elood_, (mountains of), 68.
_Emzairaat_, (wadey of), 81.
_Eructation_, filthy practice of, at Tripoli, 14.
_Evil eye_, charms against, 31.
_Farmela_, an article of Tripoline dress, described, 6.
_Fever_, Arab remedy for, 321.
_Fezzan_, boundaries of, 270. Aspect of the country, ibid. The
author’s entry into the kingdom of, 68. Journey in, 69—152. State
of cultivation, 271. Articles of commerce carried thence, to
Soudan, Bornou, and Waday, 152—154. Articles received in return,
154—157. Exports of the Fezzan merchants to Egypt, 157. Imports,
158. State of education in this country, 186, 187. Abundance of
ants and bugs there, 187, 188. Revenues of the Sultan, 188, 189.
Character of the Fezzaners, 240, 280. Their appearance and manners,
283, 284. Mineral productions, 271. Animal productions of this
country, 271—273. Vegetable productions, 273, 274. Agriculture,
275. And horticulture, 277. Chief towns, 275. Chief diet of
the inhabitants, 276. Division and tenure of landed property, ibid.
Weights and measures current in commerce, 277, 278. Government,
278—280. Punishments, 282. Character of the Marāboots, 284. State
of education, 285. Manufactures, 286. Condition of slaves, 287. Of
the women, ibid. Parental authority, absolute, ibid. Laws relating
to the issue of slaves, 289. Traditions prevalent there, 287, 288.
Geological observations on the mountains and rocks of, 361—369.
_Fighi_, or men of letters, notice of, 285.
_Flocks_ of the Arabs, account of, 45, 46.
_Food_ of the Arabs, account of, 48—52.
_Fossil Bones_, discovered in the interior of Africa, 128.
_Fuggha_, (town), notice of, 243. Itinerary thence to Benghazi, ibid.
_Funerals_, how solemnised at Tripoli, 19, 20. Of Mr. Ritchie, 192.
_Gafooly_, a species of clover, notice of, 275.
_Gatrone_, (town), arrival at, 224. Described, ibid, 228.
The author returns thither, from an excursion, 248. Fondness of
the inhabitants for show, ibid. Arrival of the Ghrazzie,
or slave-hunters, there, 249.
_Ghadams_, a Tuarick town, notice of, 112. Its situation described,
161. Occupied by two hostile tribes, 162. Water, how distributed
there, 163.
_Gharian Mountains_, the author’s journey to, described, 21, 22.
General appearance of the country in their vicinity, 23. Arrival
at the foot of the Gharian pass, ibid. Its inhabitants nearly
extirpated, 24. Account of their subterraneous habitations, 25.
Hospitable reception of the author and his party, by a Gharian
Sheikh, 26, 27. Arrival at Castle Gharian, 28. Ruin of a Roman
building discovered in these mountains, 30. Account of the people
of Gharian, 32, 33. Journey thence to Benioleed, 33, 34.
Geological observations on the Gharian mountains, 361—369.
_Ghraat_, a Tuarick town, notice of, 112, 113. Manners of the
inhabitants, 113.
_Ghràba_, a species of desert, defined, 345.
_Ghrazzie_, or slave-hunters, arrival of at Gatrone, 249. Account of
their excursion, 250. Their manner of making captives, 255. Their
return to Morzouk, 261. Observations on the Ghrazzie, 262. Mode of
dividing the captives, ibid. Slave markets, 263.
_Ghrood_, a species of desert, defined, 344.
_Ghroodwa_, (village), notice of, 86, 87, 298.
_Ghrowāt_, (village), 203.
_Gibbi_, or south wind, effects of, 94.
_Gla_, (mountain), 64.
_Gooberr_, a Fellata town, notice of, 141.
_Gonja_, country, notice of, 160.
_Government_ of the Arab tribes, 42. Of Bornou, 128, 129. Of
Tembuctoo, 147. Of Fezzan, 278—280.
_Guasem_, (village), notice of, 29.
_Guatela_, (mountains), 68, 69.
_Guddub_, a species of clover, notice of, 275.
_Gundy_, an animal so called, described, 31, 32.
_Gurd_ or _Gurda_ tree, botanical notice of, 234. Its pod and leaves
delineated, 235.
_Gussar Hallom_, castle of, 257.
_Gusser Turk_, castle of, described, 28, 29.
_Gutfa_, well of, 81, 309. Curious ceremony performed there, 81.
_Hadje Hajeel_, (village), notice of, 203, 204.
_Hamera_, (village), notice of, 210.
_Hand_, cutting off, a punishment for theft, 17.
_Haousa_, country, boundaries of, 149. Vocabulary of its language,
149—151.
_Hatia_, a species of desert, notice of, 345.
_Hegira_, festival of the commencement of, 185.
_Hoon_, (a town of Fezzan), notice of, 75. The author attends public
worship at the Mosque there, 77, 78.
_Hormut Emhalla_, pass of, 68.
——— _t’Mohalla_, pass of, 326.
——— _Taad atar_, pass of, 69.
——— _t’Uziz_, pass of, 325.
_Hornemann_, the traveller, notice of, 133.
_Horses_, Arabian, account of, 46, 47. How shod, 48. Singular mode
of swimming them over the river Tsad, 124, 125.
_Horticulture_, state of, in Fezzan, 277.
_Houses_ at Morzouk, described, 96. At Sockna, structure of, 320.
_Ibrahim Zubbo_, an Arab tribe, notice of, 142.
_Inscription_, ancient, at Tripoli, 18. At Bonjem, 66.
_Itinerary_, from Kashna to Sakkatoo, 140. Into Bornou, 141, 142.
From Morzouk to Tuat, 144. And to Kashna, 131. From Fuggha to
Benghāzi, 243. From Benghāzi to Derna, ibid, 244. From Yent Werda,
265. From Tegerry to Bilma, ibid.
_Jerba_, an article of Tripoline dress, described, 6.
_Jibn_, or Arabian cheese, notice of, 45.
_Jufara_, wells of, 223.
_Kabra_, the port of Tembuctoo, notice of, 145.
_Kadi_, jurisdiction of, in Fezzan, 279, 280.
_Kaffir_, or unbeliever, who are so called, 160.
_Kanem_, barbarous irruption into, by the Sultan of Fezzan, 129.
_Kasarawa_, (well of), 236.
_Kashna_, Itinerary from Morzouk to, 131. Account of the road from
Kashna to Soudan, 132. Rivers of this district, 133. Cowries
current there for coin, 138. Manufactures, 139. Itinerary from
Kashna to various places in Soudan, 140—142.
_Kattagum_ river, course of, 133, 134.
_Kenaire_, pass of, 306.
_Khod el Khadem_, mountain of, 69.
_Klia_, (desert), painful journey across, 68, 69.
_Kohol_, mountain of, 308.
_Language_ of Bornou, vocabulary of, 122. Peculiarity in, 198.
Vocabulary of the language of Sakkatoo, 135—138. Of Tembuctoo,
146, 147. Of Soudan, or the Haoussa tongue, 149—151. Of Baghermee,
peculiarity in, 198. Of Tibboo, 233. Of Sockna, 314, 316.
_Lebida_, ruins of, 337.
_Lilla Fatma_, an extraordinarily fat woman, account of, 62, 63.
Accident to, in travelling, 86.
_Liver complaint_, extraordinary remedy for, 220, 221.
_Lizards_ found in Northern Africa, notice of, 184, 185.
_Lyon_, (Capt.) obtains permission to accompany Mr. Ritchie to North
Africa, 2. Arrives at Tripoli, ibid. His interview with the Bey of
Fezzan, 5. Assumes an Arabic name, 7. Acquires the habits of the
Moslems, 8. Journey of, to the Gharian mountains, 21. Hospitable
reception of him and his party by the Arabs of the Tripoline desert,
22. Arrive at the Gharian pass, 23. Journey through the mountains,
24—33. Arrival at Benioleed, 34. Description of the place and its
inhabitants, 34—36. Return to Tripoli, 38. Journey thence to
Morzouk, 55—87. Arrival there, 88. Exerts his medical skill in
behalf of the Arabs, 67, 68. His residence in Morzouk, described,
96. Illness of, and of his companions, 100, 101. His mode
of keeping the fast of Ramadan, 102. Prescribes for the Africans,
115—117. Prescribes for the children and negresses, 175. Sells one
of his horses for the support of himself and his companions, 182.
Generosity of a Mamluke to them, 183. Is stung by a scorpion, 184.
Buries his friend, Mr. Ritchie, 192. Narrative of his own illness,
194, 195. Proceedings with respect to Mr. Ritchie’s effects,
195, 196. Apology of, for conforming to the Mohammedan worship,
199, 200. Journey to Tegerry, the southern limit of Fezzan,
202—238. Hospitable reception at Deesa, 257. And at Zaizow, 258.
Returns to Morzouk, 259. A fête given to him by his friend Mohammed
el Lizari, 268. Arrangements for his departure from Morzouk,
290. Takes leave of the Sultan Mukni, 292, 294, 295. Arrives
at Dgleim, 295. At Temenhint, 302. At Zegen Om el Abeed, 303.
At the pass of Kenaire, 306. Traverses a desert, of five days in
extent, to Sockna, 305—312. Illness of the author and his alarming
situation in the desert, 327, 328. His providential deliverance,
329. Overtaken in a tremendous thunder storm, 333. Feelings on
again beholding the sea, 334. Experiences a dangerous relapse
on his journey, but recovers, 339, 340. Arrives at Tejoura, 340.
And re-enters Tripoli, ibid. Has an interview with the Bashaw,
349. Embarks for Leghorn, 350. And arrives in England, 351.
_Mabrook_, a town at the end of the great desert, notice of, 144.
_Mafen_, (village), 257. Account of a remarkable plain of salt and
earth, in its vicinity, ibid.
_Maghna_, village, 209.
_Mahmoud_, (Hadge), a friend of the author’s, notice of, 103, 104.
Instances of his kindness, 192, 194, 196, 197.
_Mahommed el Mukni_. See _Mukni_.
_Mamlukes_, at Tripoli, engross all offices, 14. Disinterested
generosity of one, to Messrs. Ritchie and Lyon, 183.
_Mandra_, a tributary province of Bornou, notice of, 126.
_Mangelly_, village of, 203.
_Manufactures_ of Soudan, 139. Of Tembuctoo, 146.
_Marāboots_, or Mohammedan saints, two classes of, 8, 9. Procession
of, described, 9—11. The author initiated by one, 12. Their tombs,
regarded as sanctuaries, 38. The author visits one, near Morzouk,
102. Interview with one at Traghan, 205. Hospitable reception
of the author by one at Gatrone, 229. General character of the
Marāboots of Fezzan, 284.
_Marādi_ country, notice of, 143.
_Marriages_, notices of, at Tripoli, 18. Of the Arabs, 42, 43.
Ceremonial of a marriage at Morzouk, 185, 186. At the village of
Sebha, 299.
_Matta Imhammed_, mountains of, 69.
_Meat_, Arab modes of cooking, 51. And of preparing for a long
journey, 219.
_Medicine_, state of, among the Arabs, 51, 52. And at Morzouk, 106,
107.
_Medroosa_, (village), 235. The author’s dilemma there, 246.
_Mejdool_, (village), 221, 222.
_Mejnine_, castle of, 21. Arrival of the author and his party at,
ibid.
_Melghra_, wells of, 37, 61.
_Mellona_, governor of Kashna, notice of, 135.
_Messhia_, or gardens, near Tripoli, notice of, 15, 21.
_Meteorological Register_, from May to December 1819, 355—359.
_Milk_, different sorts of, used by the Arabs, 45.
_Mogatba_, an Arabian dish, how prepared, 50.
_Mohammed ben Abd Alla_, a friend of the author, account of, 104,
105.
_Mohammed el Lizari_, a friend of the author, notice of, 104, 203.
His unpleasant situation, 252. Gives a fête to the author, 268.
Departs for Tripoli, 269.
_Mohammedans_, treacherous conduct of, 200, 201. The absolute
necessity for European travellers assuming their costume and
mode of worship, illustrated, 199, 200.
_Mokhaten_, (village), 205.
_Mountains_ of Fezzan and Tripoli, geological observations on the
structure of, 361. Basaltic mountains, 361, 362. Tertiary
limestone, 361, 363. New red sandstone, 361, 364—369.
_Morzouk_, the capital of Fezzan, the author’s journey to,
described, 55—87. Arrival there, 88. Account of the place, 97.
Castle, 98. Burial-places, 99. Diseases prevalent there, and their
treatment, 106, 107. Itinerary thence to Kashna, 131. To the
country of Tuat, 144. Water, how raised for irrigating the gardens
in its vicinity, 169. Description of the principal Mosque, ibid.
Dress of the men, 170. And of the women, ibid. 171. Notice of
favourite dances there, 172, 173. Prices of provisions there, 177.
Their quality, ibid. 178. State of education there, 186, 187.
Number of Mosques, 199. Manner of selling slaves there, 268.
Their condition, 288. Meteorological Register, kept at, 355—359.
_Mukni_, (Mohammed el), Bey of Fezzan, character of, 3. Account of
the manner in which he obtained his power, ibid. 4. Expresses
himself favourable to the mission to Africa, ibid. The author
introduced to him, 5. Extirpates the Waled Suliman tribe of Arabs,
55. His people live at free cost, among the natives, 64. His entry
into the town of Sockna described, 70—72. In what manner he
collected his tribute, 74. Ceremonies paid him on his departure
from Sockna, 80. His reception on approaching the town of Morzouk,
88. His sentiments on English customs, 89. His lenity to one of
his concubines, 91. Expedition of, against the Arab tribe of
Tibboo Borgoo, 106. Ungenerous conduct of, to Messrs. Ritchie
and Lyon, 117, 119. Invades the defenceless people of Kanem,
129. His barbarous treatment of the captives, ibid. Is
apprehensive of being superseded by the Bashaw of Tripoli,
163. Whom he endeavours to propitiate, 164. Prepares for flight,
165. Is continued in his office, 263. His treacherous intentions
towards Messrs. Ritchie and Lyon, 165, 166. Cultivates acquaintance
with some Arab Sheikhs, 168. Extraordinary dress of his children,
176. Costume of his court, 176, 177. Has a carriage constructed for
him, 179—181. Ceremonial of marrying one of his cast-off women,
185. Sources of his revenues and their amount, 188, 189. Anecdote
of his treachery to a trader, 198. His reception of his son,
on his return from a slave-hunting expedition, 261. Suggestions
for preventing his predatory incursions into the Negro kingdoms,
281. His expedient for securing his duty on captured slaves, 268.
_Music_ of the Tibboos and of Fezzan, 234.
_Negroes_, ill treatment of by the Mohammedans, 79. Painful march of
some liberated Negroes, across the deserts, 92. Account of the
traffic in, 120—122. And of the songs of the captive Negroes, 336,
337. Amiable character of the women, 140. In what manner the
Negroes are taken captives, 255. Markets for the sale of, 263.
Their condition in Fezzan, 287. Especially at Morzouk, 288.
Sufferings of some Negroe-captives in their journey across the
deserts to Tripoli, 296, 323, 325, 329, 332, 343. Scanty allowance
of food to them, 297. Their cheerfulness, under all their
sufferings, 341, 342.
_Neshoua_, (well of), 297.
_New Year’s Day_, Mohammedan rejoicings on, 185.
_Nil_, or Niger, a river of Bornou, notice of, 127. Its course, 145,
148.
_Nufdai_, (mountain), 81, 309.
_Omeladam Tasfert_, well of, 221.
_Omesogueer_, (village), notice of, 221. Fabulous account of a
Marāboot there, ibid.
_Ongornoo_, a town in the interior of Africa, notice of, 127.
_Orfilly_, tribe of Arabs, wretched condition of, 34—36. Their
character, 314. Anecdote of one, ibid.
_Ostriches_, observations on the natural history of, 77.
_Ovens_ of the Arabs, form of, 51.
_Parental authority_, absolute, at Fezzan, 287.
_Park_, (Mr.), observations on the fate of, 146.
_Population_ of Tembuctoo, accounted for, 145.
_Prostitutes_, regulations concerning, at Tripoli, 13.
_Punishments_, (Moorish), 16, 17. Of Fezzan, 282.
_Rats_ of Fezzan, notice of, 317, 318, 320.
_Religion_ of the Arabs, 42. Of Soudan, 139. Of the Tuarick, 112.
_Reptiles_ of Morzouk and its vicinity, 184, 185.
_Revenues_ of the Sultan of Fezzan, 188, 189.
_Rhamadan_, fast of, strictly observed, 102. Extravagant rejoicings
on its termination, 107.
_Ritchie_, (Mr.) accepts the author’s offer to accompany him to
Africa, 2. Arrives at Tripoli, where he is joined by Mr. Lyon,
ibid. Makes an excursion to the Gharian Mountains and Benioleed,
21—38. Preparations for a journey into the interior, 56, 57.
Journey from Tripoli to Morzouk, 58—87. Arrival at Morzouk, 88.
His first appearance in a mosque, 95. Description of his residence
in Morzouk, 96. His distressing illness, 100, 103. Recovers, 117.
And prescribes for the Africans, 116, 117. Imposed upon by Mukni,
119. Whose treacherous intentions towards himself and Mr. Lyon,
he discovers, 165, 166, 167. Relapse of Mr. Ritchie, 189. His
death, 190, 191. And funeral, 192.
_Rocks_ of Fezzan, observations on the geological structure of, 361.
Basaltic rocks, 361, 362. Tertiary limestone, 361, 363, 364. New
red sandstone, 361, 364—369.
_Sadig_, (Shreef), kind behaviour of, to the author, 313, 318.
_Sahār_ or _Sahāra_, a species of desert, defined, 344, 346.
Phenomena of, described, 346, 347. Wells occasionally found there,
348.
_Saints_, Mohammedan, account of, 8—12.
_Sakkatoo_, a town of Soudan, notice of, 134. Itinerary from Kashna
to, 140, 141. Vocabulary of the language of, 135—138.
_Sala el Sultan_, or praying place of the Sultan, 307.
_Salt_, remarkable incrustations of, in Fezzan, 205, 206. Plain of,
211.
_Salutation_, Arabian mode of, 53.
_Samnoo_, (village), notice of, 85.
_Sand winds_, 70. Effects of, 83, 84.
_Sbir ben Afeen_, a desert so called, notice of, 83.
_Scorpions_, prevalence of, at Morzouk, 183, 184. Notice of a
species of, called the scorpion of the wind, 184.
_Sebha_, (town), notice of, 85. Description of a wedding there, 299.
_Sereer_, a species of desert, notice of, 345.
_Shahm_, a preparation of sheep’s fat, notice of, 46.
_Shiati_, (region of), account of, 299, 300.
_Shiblia_, or camel litters, described, 59.
_Shirgi_, or the east wind, effects of, 94.
_Shrab_, or false water of the desert, 307.
_Sidi Besheer_, (tomb of), notice of, 204.
_Sidrea_, an article of Tripoline dress, described, 6.
_Slaves_ and slave trade, of the interior of Africa, account of,
120—122. Amiable character of the females, 140. Account of an
expedition of slave-hunters, 250. Their manner of making captives,
255; and of dividing them among the captors, 262. Notice of the
slave markets, 263. Condition of slaves in Fezzan, 287. Especially
at Morzouk, 288. Regulations concerning the offspring of slaves,
289. Sufferings of some negro captives in their journey across the
deserts to Tripoli, for sale, 296, 323, 325, 329, 332, 343. Their
allowance of food, 297. Cheerfulness under all their sufferings,
341, 342. Account of the slave market at Morzouk, 267, 268.
_Smeeran_ (mountain), 22.
_Sockna_, a town of Fezzan, entry of the Sultan into, described,
70—72. Account of it, 72, 73. Its former state, 74. Ceremonies
paid to the Sultan, on his departure thence, 80. The Author’s
return thither, 309. Is beset with sturdy beggars, 310, 318, 319.
Vocabulary of the language there spoken, 314—316. Festival of the
return of spring, 317. State of the gardens, ibid. Mode of
preserving dates there, 320.
_Songs_ of the Arabs, account of, 173, 174. Of some captive negroes,
336, 337.
_Soudan_, _Afno_, or _Haousa_, rivers of, 133. Vocabulary of the
language of, 135—138. Notice of the chief provinces and places in,
131, 132, 134. Manufactures of, 139. Ignorance almost universal
among the natives, 139. Religion, ibid. Itinerary from Kashna, to
various places in, 140—142. Exports to, from Fezzan, 152—154.
Imports from, to Fezzan, 154—157. Description of the women of
Soudan, 161.
_South Wind_, effects of, 94.
_Spring_, return of, celebrated as a festival, 317. _Studies_,
course of, in Fezzan, 186, 187.
_Suarit_ (Mountain), 64.
_Subterraneous_ habitations, in the Gharian Mountains, described,
25, 29, 30.
_Sun_, extraordinary effect of, 209.
_Superstitions_ of the Tuarick, an African tribe, 111.
_Taleb_, village of, 209.
_Tar_, how made by the Tibboo tribe, 235, 236.
_Tarr_, Wadey of, 324.
_Tegerrina_, village of, 32.
_Tegerry_, the Southern limit of Fezzan, narrative of the Author’s
journey to, 202—237. Arrival there, 238. Description of its
castle, 239. Price of provisions there, 240. Its productions, 241.
Superstitions of its inhabitants, 242, 243. Itinerary thence to
Bilma, 244. The Author’s return there, 245. Itinerary thence to
Bilma, 265.
_Telemsen_, desert of, 148.
_Tembuctoo_, account of, 145. Its reputed immense population
accounted for, ibid. Notice of its port, Kabra, ibid. Manufactures
and dress of the people, 146. Government, 147.
_Temedd_, brackish well at, 324.
_Temenhiut_, or Temenhint (village), notice of, 85. Singular mode of
barter practised there, 302.
_Temesheen_, Wadey of, 308.
_Tents_, Arab, described, 41.
_Terboo_ (village), notice of, 220. Wretched condition of its
inhabitants, ibid.
_Terfaas_, a species of root, notice of, 37.
_Terhoona_, Arabs of, 37.
_Tessouwa_ (town), notice of, 189.
_Teweewa_, desert of, 211.
_Tghrasat_, Bazaar of, 32.
_Theft_, how punished at Tripoli, 17, 64.
_Tibboo_, or Slave Traders in the interior of Africa, account of,
120, 121. Articles of commerce between them and Bornou, 159. Dress
and character of the Tibboo women, 225—227, 232; and of the men,
227, 228. Notice of the animals produced in their country, 231.
Distance thence to Waday, 230, 231. Vocabulary of the Tibboo
language, 233. Tibboo forms of courtesy, 232. Music of this
people, 234. Their mode of preparing tar, 235, 236.
_Tibboos_ of Borgoo, account of, 251, 252, 254. Arab mode of making
them captives, 255. Anecdotes of a Tibboo boy, 308, 309.
_Tibesty_ (region), notice of, 230.
_Touela_ (village), notice of, 209.
_Trade_ of the Tuarick, 114. Of the Tibboo, 120—122. Between Fezzan,
Soudan, Bornou, and Waday, 152—157. Between Fezzan and Egypt,
157—159. Between Bornou and the Tibboo country, 159. Between Tuat
and the Tuarick, ibid. 160.
_Traghan_, date groves of, 205. Modesty of a Marāboot there, 206.
Account of the castle and town, 207, 208.
_Travelling_, mode of, across the deserts, 91—93. On camels,
extraordinary mode of, 114.
_Tribute_, how collected in Fezzan, 74.
_Tripoli_, markets of, 12. Bazaars, ibid. Schools, ibid. Prevalence
of drunkenness there, 13. Filthy practice of eructation, in all
classes, 14. All offices held by Mamlukes, ibid. Description of
the public baths, 14, 15. The Bashaw’s guards, 16. The punishment
of hanging, how performed, ibid. Torture in use there, ibid.
Bastinado, how performed, 17. Marriages and burials of, 18, 19.
Adventures of a Tripoline woman, 321. The Author’s interview with
the Bashaw of, on his return from his mission to the interior,
349. Geological observations on the mountains and rocks of,
361—369.
_Tripolines_, dress of, described, 6, 7, 17, 18.
_Tsād_, a river of Bornou, account of, 124, 125. Extraordinary
mode of crossing it, 124. Notice of the inhabitants in its
vicinity, 125.
_Tuarick_ (an African tribe), costume of, 109, 110. Arms, 110.
Superstitions, 111. Language, ibid. Their extraordinary aversion
to washing, ibid. Religion, 112. Notice of their chief towns, 113.
Their government, ibid. Trade, 114. Their extraordinary mode of
travelling on camels, 114, 115. Articles of commerce between them
and Tuat, 159, 160. Anecdote of one, 197.
_Tuat_ (country), situation, productions, and trade of, 143.
Itinerary from Morzouk thither, 144.
_Tubbel_, or drum of Fezzan, account of, 248, 249.
_Usadena_, villages of, 32. Their distressed state, ibid.
_Vocabulary_ of the language of Bornou, 122. Of Sakkatoo, 135—138.
Of Tembuctoo, 146, 147. Of Soudan, or the Haousa tongue, 149—151.
Of the Tibboo dialect, 232. Of Sockna, 314—316.
_Wadan_, (a town of Fezzan), notice of, 76. Character of its
inhabitants, ibid.
———, (an animal and chain of mountains so called), account of, 76.
_Waday_ country, articles of export to, from Fezzan, 152—154.
Articles given in exchange, 154—157. Distance from the Tibboo
country to, 230, 231. Itinerary to, from Borgoo, 267.
_Wad el Nommel_, or the valley of ants, wretched village of, 87.
_Wadey_, a species of desert, notice of, 346.
——— Shirghi, chief towns in, 300.
——— Ghrarbi, chief towns in, ibid. Character and manners of the
inhabitants of, ibid, 301.
_Wajunga_ people, notice of, 252. Account of their country, 266.
_Waled Suliman_, an Arabian tribe, account of, 54—56.
_Warr_, a species of desert, notice of, 345.
_Warral_, a species of lizard, notice of, 184, 185.
_Washing_, singular aversion to, of the Tuarick, an African tribe,
111.
_Water_, Arab mode of carrying across the deserts, 93. How raised
for irrigating the land near Morzouk, 169. How obtained from the
stomach of camels, to satisfy the thirst of almost perishing
travellers, 305.
_Wells_ of the great desert, observations on, 348.
_Werda_, itinerary to, from Yen, 265.
_Wishek_, a species of desert, notice of, 345
_Women_ of Tripoli, dress of, described, 17, 18. Arabian dress of,
39, 40. Conditions and dress of the women of Bornou and Soudan,
161. And of the Tibboo women, 224—227. Of the women in Fezzan, 287.
_Wudakaire_, wells of, 223.
_Yemyem_, inhabitants of, cannibals, 142, 143. Notice of this
country, 143.
_Yen_, (town), notice of, 265. Itinerary thence, to Werda, ibid.
_Yussuff_, a Moor, benevolent conduct of, towards the author and his
companions, 192—194, 203.
_Zaizow_, (village), notice of, 205. Hospitable reception of the
author at, 258.
_Zeighan_, (village), notice of, 85.
_Zgar_, wadey of, 81.
_Zibboon_, an article of Tripoline dress, described, 6.
_Zleetun_, castle of, arrival at, 334. Notice of Roman ruins in its
vicinity, ibid. Notice of the village, 335. Impudence of a Marāboot
there, ibid. Markets and commerce, ibid. 336.
_Zuela_, arrival of the author at, 212. His reception there, ibid.
213. Character of the inhabitants, 213. Singular instance of their
ignorance, ibid. Description of a Mosque and other ancient Arabic
buildings in its vicinity, 214—216. Ruins of the castle, 217.
Hospitality of several Shreefs at, to the author, 217, 218.
_Zumeeta_. an Arabian dish, how prepared, 50.
THE END.
LONDON:
PRINTED BY THOMAS DAVISON, WHITEFRIARS.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: The inscription, which is over the northern face, is in
a perfect state, and is as follows:
IMP . CÆS . AVRELIO . ANTONIN . AVG . PP . ET . IMP . CAES . L .
AVRELIO . VERO . AMENIACO . AVG . SER . S . ORFITVS . PROCCOS . CVM .
VTTEDIO . MARCELLO . LEG . SVO . DEDICAVIT . C . CALPVRNIVS . CELSVS .
CVRATOR . MVNERIS . PVB . MVNERARIVS . IIVIR . Q . Q . FLAMEN .
PERPETVVS . ARCV . MARMORE . SOLIDO . FECIT.]
[Footnote 2: Narrative of a ten Years’ Residence in Tripoli.]
[Footnote 3: The Tibboo girls are betrothed some time before
they are married, in the same manner as the Arabs and Tripolines.]
Transcriber's note:
pg 35 Changed: Pharoah’s curse to: Pharaoh
pg 53 Changed: Bahr el blem, باحرالظﻠﻜ to: الظلا
pg 54 Changed: Mesunāta to: Mesurāta
pg 111 Changed: Socka to: Sockna
pg 209 Changed: his little boy, Barea to: Barca
pg 228 Changed: 24° 47′ 57′ North to: 57″
pg 272 Changed: whence they some to: come
pg 286 Changed: the F is pointed below ﺑ to: ڢ
pg 289 Changed: A Khādem خعدو to: خعدم
pg 298 Changed: Wadey Shiati, ولدي شدتي to: وادي
pg 300 Changed: Gusser Sallām قسرسللو to: سللم
pg 300 Changed: Khalifa خليوه to: خليفه
pg 301 Changed: Ben Areif بن اريغ to: اريف
pg 302 Changed: Roos Ghraab روس غرعن to: غرعب
pg 303 Changed: Om el Abeed, ام العبيل to: العبيد
pg 306 Changed: Kenaire دنير to: كنير
pg 307 Changed: El Kamle Kebeer to: Ramle
pg 372 Changed: Bouzatter to: Bouzafer
pg 374 Changed: El Kamle Gebeer to: Ramle
Below some plates Changed: F. G. Lyon to: G. F. Lyon
Added period between arabic words and the start of the
next sentence in several instances.
Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.