which God was pleased to grant. Two days after my arrival, news came
that Ravere and other neighbouring places had been sacked by 1500 Deccan
horse, so that we were thankful to God for our safe arrival, as the way
was not now passable for 1000 horse. I was here informed, by letters
from an Armenian, of a prodigious disaster sustained by the Portuguese
armada on the Malabar coast, consisting of fifty frigates or grabs, and
two gallies, which being dispersed by a storm, was suddenly assailed by
the Malabar pirates issuing from many creeks, who took many of their
fleet and burnt most of the rest. On the 12th I rode out to visit the
prince, and on the 13th I made him a present. He received me very
courteously, and promised me every thing I asked. The prince was
attended by 20,000 horse and 300 elephants; having along with him Asaph
Khan with about 3000, and Emersee Rastein, late King of Candahar, with
some thousand veterans. While I remained in the camp, Rajah Mansing
joined with 10,000 horse, all Rajaputs, and near 1000 elephants; so that
all the plains for a vast distance were covered with tents, making a
most splendid appearance. Along with the army were many large boats, for
transporting the troops across large rivers. On the prince removing, I
returned to Boorhanpoor; and as he advanced three coss towards the
enemy, I went on the 26th to take my leave, when news were brought of
the defeat of some of Rajah Mansing's troops.
The 1st of March I departed for Agra along with the governor of
Boorhanpoor and that day we travelled 12 c. to _Barre_, a great village,
having passed by a very steep and stony road across the great ridge of
mountains, [Callygong hills,] which come from Ahmedabad.[237] On this
way, and about four coss from Boorhanpoor, we passed the strong and
invincible castle of _Hasser_, seated on the top of a high mountain, and
said to be large enough to contain forty or fifty thousand horse. On the
top are many tanks and fine pasture grounds. In the time of its former
sovereign, Badur Shah, it is said to have been defended by 600 pieces
of cannon. Akbar besieged it for a long time, surrounding it on all
sides, and at length took it by composition. For it is said there bred
such innumerable quantities of small worms in the waters of the fort,
that the people swelled and burst, by which mortality the king was
forced to submit and surrender, the place being impregnable by any human
force. The 3d we came to _Candah_, eleven c. a small aldea, the road
being stony and very troublesome. The 4th to _Magergom_, four c. a large
aldea, and by a very bad road. The 5th ten c. to _Kergom_, or Kargaw, a
large village and a steep road. The 6th thirteen c. to _Bircool_, a
small village. The 7th eight c. to _Taxapore_, or Tarrapoor, a small
town, within two coss of which we passed a fine river called _Nervor_,
[Nerbuddah,] which runs into the sea at Broach. On the bank of this
river is a pretty town with a good castle, immediately under which is
the ferry. About a coss lower down is an overfall where the water is not
above three feet deep, but a mile in breadth, by which camels usually
pass. The 8th five c. to _Mandow_, three coss of which the road goes up
a steep mountain, having no more than breadth for a coach.
[Footnote 237: This is an error of Finch. The Vindhaya mountains, which
run from Guzerat eastwards, are on the north of the Nerbuddah river;
whereas the mountain ridge in the text divides the valley of the
Nerbuddah from that of the Taptee, and joins the western Gauts near
Surat.--E.]
This ridge of mountains, [the Vindhaya,] extends E. and W.[238] On the
top, and at the very edge of the table land, stands the gate of the
city, over which is built a handsome fort and pleasure-house. The walls
extend all along the side of the mountain for many cosses. On the left
hand of the entrance, at two or three miles distance from the gate, is a
strong fort on the top of a pointed mountain, and some ten or twelve
more dispersed in other places. For two coss or better within the outer
gate, this city is all ruined, except many tombs and mosques which yet
remain, interspersed among the tottering walls of many large houses. The
old city of Mandow is four coss from the S. to the N. gate, and measures
ten or twelve coss from east to west, beyond which to the east are good
pasture grounds for many cosses. On the top of the mountain are some
fifteen or sixteen tanks, dispersed about the city. What still remains
of this city is very well built, but small in comparison with its
former greatness, yet has many goodly buildings, all of stone, and very
lofty gates, the like of which, I believe, is not to be seen in
Christendom. At the entrance on the south, within the gate of the city
now inhabited, as you pass along, there stands a goodly mosque on the
left hand, and over against it a splendid sepulchre, in which are
interred the bodies of four kings in exceedingly rich tombs. By the side
of which stands a high tower of 170 steps in height, built round with
windows and galleries to each room, with many fine arches and pillars,
the walls being all inlaid in a most beautiful manner with green marble
or some other rich stone. On the north side, where we came forth from
this city; there lay a cannon, the bore of which was eighteen inches
diameter. The gate is very strong, having six others within, all very
strong, with large walled courts of guard between gate and gate. All
along the side of the mountains runs a strong wall, with turrets or
flankers at intervals, although the hill is so steep in itself that it
is hardly possible for a man to creep upon all fours in any part of it,
so that it appears absolutely impregnable; yet was taken, partly by
force and partly by treason, by Humaion, grandfather of the present
Great Mogul, from Sheic Shah Selim, whose ancestors conquered it from
the Indians about 400 years ago. This Shah Selim was a powerful King of
Delhi, who once forced Humaion to flee into Persia for aid; and,
returning from Persia, put Selim to the worst, yet was unable to conquer
him. He even held out during the whole reign of Akbar, keeping upon the
mountains. Beyond the walls, the suburbs formerly extended four coss to
the north, but are now all in ruins, except a few tombs, mosques, and
goodly _serais_, in which no persons now dwell.
[Footnote 238: The original says N.E. and S.W. but in our best and
latest map of Hindoostan, the direction is nearly E. and W. or perhaps
E. by N. and W. by S.--E.]
The 9th we went four coss by a very bad stony road to _Luneheira_.
Between this and the ruins, at three c. from Mandow, is a fine tank
inclosed with stone, having a banqueting-house in the middle, and a fair
house on the south side, now in ruins, from which to the
banqueting-house is an arched bridge. The 10th to _Dupalpore_, fourteen
c. a small town and the road good. The 11th twelve long cosses to
_Ouglue_, or Oojain, a fair city, in the country called Malwah, a
fertile soil abounding with opium. In this country the coss is two
English miles. We halted the 12th. The 13th to _Conoscia_ eleven c.
14th, eight c. to _Sunenarra_, or Sannarea, by a bad stony way, among a
thievish people, called _graciae_, inhabiting the Hills on our left
hand, who often plunder the _caffilas_, or caravans, and a hundred of
them had done so now to a caravan, if we had not prevented them by our
arrival. This is a small town, short of which we passed a great tank
full of wild fowl. The 15th ten c. to _Pimelegom_, a shabby _aldea_. At
the end of the fourth coss we passed _Sarampore_, or Sarangpoor, a great
town with a castle on its south side, and a handsome town-house. Here
are manufactured much good cotton cloth and handsome turbans. Short of
this town we met Khan Jehan, a great favourite of the king, with 10,000
horse, many elephants, and a number of boats, going to join the army at
Boorhanpoor. On the way also we met many of Rajah Mansing's Rajapoots,
he having in all about 20,000, so that it was thought the army would
amount to 100,000 horse when all assembled.
From the 16th to the 26th of March, we travelled 74 coss to _Qualeres_,
or Colarass, a small pretty town, encompassed with tamarind and mango
trees.[239] The 27th to _Cipry_, or Shepoory, seven Surat cosses of a
mile and a half each, by a desert road. Two nights before, some sixty or
seventy thieves assailed in the dark a party of 150 Patan soldiers,
mistaking them for a caffila that had just gone before, by whom ten of
them were slain and as many taken, the rest escaping in the dark. The
28th to _Narwar_ twelve c. through a rascally desert full of thieves. In
the woods we saw many _chuckees_, stationed there to prevent robbery;
but they alledge that the fox is oft times set to herd the geese. This
town stands at the foot of a steep stony mountain, and on the top is a
castle having a steep ascent rather more than a mile, which is
intersected by three strong gates. The fourth gate is at the top of the
ascent, where no one is allowed to enter without an order from the king.
Within, the town is large and handsome, being situated in a curious
valley on the top of the mountain. This fortified summit is said to be
five or six coss in circuit, walled all round, and having towers and
flankers every here and there, so that it is impregnable unless by
treachery. This was formerly the gate or barrier of the kingdom of
Mandow, and has been very beautiful, and secured by means of strong
works with abundance of cannon, but is now much gone to ruin.
[Footnote 239: It has been thought better to omit the minute enumeration
of stages in the sequel, where no other information occurs; more
especially as their names can seldom be referred to those in modern maps
of India.--E.]
The 29th we went seven c. to _Palacha_, or Pelaiche; 80th, twelve c. to
_Antro_, or Anter; 31st, six c. to _Gualior,_ a pleasant city with
castle; and on the top of a pyramidal hill, is a ruined building in
which several great men have been interred. The castle of Gualior is on
the west side of the town, on a steep craggy cliff, six coss in circuit,
or, as some say, eleven, which is all enclosed with a strong wall. On
going up to the castle from the city, the entry is by a strong gate into
a handsome court enclosed with strong walls, where a numerous guard is
always kept, no person being allowed to enter without a public order.
From thence a narrow stone causeway leads to the top, with walls on both
sides, having three gates at intervals on the ascent, all strongly
fortified, with courts of guard at each. At the top of all is another
strong gate, at which is a curious colossal figure of an elephant in
stone. This gate is highly ornamented, and has a stately house
adjoining, the walls of which are curiously adorned with green and blue
stones, and the roof with sundry gilded turrets. This is the house of
the governor, in which is a place for the confinement of nobles who have
fallen under the displeasure of the King of the Moguls. He is said to
have two other castles devoted as prisons for the nobles. _Rantipore_,
or Rantampoor, is one of these, forty c to the W. to which are sent such
nobles as are intended to be put to death, which is generally done two
months after their arrival; when the governor brings them to the top of
the wall, and giving them a bowl of milk, causes them to be thrown over
the rocks. The other is _Rotas_, in Bengal, to which are sent those
nobles who are condemned to perpetual imprisonment, and from whence very
few return. On the top of the mountain of Gualior is a considerable
extent of very good ground, with many fair buildings, and three or four
good _tanks_ or reservoirs of water. Below, on the same side with the
town, there are many houses cut out of the solid rock, serving both as
habitations, and as shops and warehouses; and at the foot of the hill on
the north-west side, is a spacious park inclosed with a stone wall,
within which are several fine gardens and pleasure-houses, and which is
also useful for securing horses in time of war from marauders. This
castle of Gualior was the main frontier of the kingdom of Delhi towards
Mandow, and the ascent from the petah, or town, to the top of the rock,
is near a mile.
Leaving Gualior on the 1st April, 1610, we arrived at _Doolpoor_ on the
2d, being nineteen c. Within two c. before reaching that place, we
passed a fine river, called the _Cambue_, or Chumbull, as broad as the
Thames, a little short of which we went through a narrow and dangerous
pass between two hills. The castle of Doolpoor is very strong, having
four walls within each other, with steep ascents to each, the outermost
having a deep and broad ditch. This castle is three quarters of a mile
through, and has similar walls and gates to be passed on going out Its
inhabitants are mostly Gentiles. The 3d April we went to _Jahjaw_, nine
c. and next day other nine c. to _Agra_. In the afternoon the captain
carried me before the king, where I found Mr Thomas Boys, three French
soldiers, a Dutch engineer, and a Venetian merchant, with his son and
servant, all newly come by land from Christendom.
In May and part of June, the city of Agra was much distressed with
frequent fires by day and night, some part or other of the city being
almost ever burning, by which many thousand houses were consumed, with
great numbers of men, women, children, and cattle, so that we feared the
judgment of Sodom and Gomorrah had gone forth against the place. I was
long and dangerously ill of a fever, and in June the heat was so
excessive that we thought to have been broiled alive. The 28th June
arrived _Padre Peneiro_, an arch knave, a jesuit I should say, who
brought letters from the Portuguese viceroy with many rich presents,
tending entirely to thwart our affairs. In this time Mucrob Khan[240]
was complained against to the king by our captain, Mr Hawkins, when
Abdal Hassan, the grand vizier, was ordered to see that we had justice:
But birds of a feather flock together, and Mucrob Khan, partly by
misstatements and partly by turning us over to a bankrupt banyan, would
only pay us with 11,000 mamudies instead of 32,501-1/2 which he was due,
and even that was not paid for a long time.
[Footnote 240: Finch uniformly calls this person _Mo. Bowcan_, but we
have substituted the name previously given him by Hawkins.--E.]
In July news came of the bad fortune of the king's army in the Deccan;
which, when within four days march of Aumednagur, hoping to raise the
siege of that place, was obliged by famine and drought to retreat to
Boorhanpoor, on which the garrison was forced to surrender after
enduring much misery. The royal army in the Deccan consisted of at least
100,000 horse, with an infinite number of elephants and camels; so that,
including servants, people belonging to the baggage, and camp followers
of all kinds, there could not be less than half a million, or 600,000
persons in the field. The water in the country where they were, became
quite insufficient for the consumption of so vast a multitude, with all
their horses, elephants, camels, and draught cattle, insomuch that a
_mussock_ of water was sold in camp for a rupee, and all kinds of
victuals were sold excessively dear. The army of the King of Deccan
spoiled the whole country around, and getting between the Moguls and
their supplies from Guzerat and Boorhanpoor, prevented the arrival of
any provisions at the camp, daily vexing them with perpetual and
successful skirmishes, and by cutting off all foraging parties and
detachments; so that the whole army was in imminent danger, and was only
extricated by a speedy retreat to Boorhanpoor; at their return to which
they did not muster above 30,000 horse, having lost an infinite number
of elephants, camels, and other cattle, that had died for want of forage
and water.
This month also, news came of the sacking of a great city called _Putana
in the Purrop_,[241] and the surprisal of its castle, where a
considerable treasure belonging to the king was deposited, the citizens
having fled without making any resistance. But the successful insurgent
was almost immediately besieged and taken in the castle by a
neighbouring great omrah; and on the return of the fugitive citizens, he
sent twelve of their chiefs to the king, who caused them to be shaven,
and to be carried on asses through the streets of Agra in the garb of
women, and it is said that next day they were beheaded.
[Footnote 241: This name and province are difficultly ascertainable. The
_Purrop_ has possibly a reference to the kingdom of _Porub_, the Indian
name of Porus, so celebrated in the invasion of India by Alexander. If
this conjecture be right, the Potana of the text was Pattan or Puttan,
in the north of Guzerat, the ancient Naherwalch.--E.]
Likewise this same month, the king made a great stir about Christianity,
affirming before his nobles that it was the true religion, while that of
Mahomet was all lies and fables. He had ordered all the three sons of
his deceased brother to be instructed by the jesuits, and christian
apparel to be given them, to the great wonderment of the whole city; and
finally these princes were baptized solemnly, being conducted to the
church by all the Christians in the city, to the number of about sixty
horse, Captain Hawkins being at their head, with St George's ensign
carried before him, in honour of England, displaying them in the court
in the presence of the king. The eldest was named Don Philippo, the
second Don Carlo, and the third Don Henrico. On the 3d September
following, another young prince was christened by the name of Don
Duarte, being grandson to a brother of the Emperor Akbar. This king gave
frequent charges to the fathers to instruct all these princes in the
Christian religion; yet all this has since clearly appeared to have been
mere dissimulation.[242]
[Footnote 242: It is possible that Selim, unwilling to put to death such
near relations, fell upon this device to render them ineligible among
the Moguls to the succession, by which to secure the throne to himself
and his sons.--E.]
§ 5. _Description of Futtipoor, Biana, &c.; of Nill, or Indigo; and of
other Matters._
The 1st of November I was sent to Biana to buy _nill_, or indigo. I
lodged the first night at _Menhapoor_, a great serai or public inn,
seven c. from Agra, near which the queenmother has a garden, and
_Moholl_, or summer-house, very curiously contrived. The 2d I halted at
_Kanowa_, or Kanua, eleven c. At every coss from Agra to Ajmeer, 130
coss, there is erected a stone pillar, owing to the following
circumstance. At Ajmeer is the tomb of a celebrated Mahometan saint,
called Haji Mondee; and as Akbar had no children, he made a pilgrimage
on foot to that famous shrine, ordering a stone pillar to be erected at
every coss, and a Moholl, with lodgings for sixteen of his principal
women, at the end of every eight coss; and after his return he had three
sons.
At twelve coss from Agra, on this road, is the famous city of
_Futtipoor_, built by Akbar, and inclosed by a fair stone wall, still
quite fresh, having four great gates, some three English miles between
each. Within the walls, the whole extent of the city lies waste like a
desert and uninhabited, being very dangerous to pass through in the
night time. Much of the ground is now occupied as gardens, and much of
it is sown with _nill_, or different kinds of grain, so that, one could
hardly suppose he were in the middle of what was so lately a great and
populous city. Before the gate towards Agra, in a stony ascent near a
coss in length, are the ruins of an extensive suburb. At the S.W. gate,
for two English miles from the city, there are ruins of many fine
buildings; and on the left are many fine walled gardens, to the distance
of three miles from the city. At the entrance of the N.E. gate is a
goodly bazar, or market, all of stone, being a spacious straight-lined
and paved street, with handsome houses on both sides, half a mile long.
Close, within the gate is the king's serai, consisting of extensive
stone buildings, but much ruined. At the head of this street stands the
king's house, or Moholl, with much curious building; beyond which, on an
ascent, is the goodliest mosque in all the east. It has a flight of some
twenty-four or thirty steps to the gate, which is, in my opinion, one of
the loftiest and handsomest in the world, having a great number of
clustering pyramids on the top, very curiously disposed. The top of this
gate may be distinctly seen from the distance of eight or ten miles.
Within the gate, is a spacious court curiously paved with stone, about
six times the size of the exchange of London, with a fine covered walk
along the sides, more than twice as broad and double the height of those
in our London exchange, supported by numerous pillars all of one stone;
and all round about are entrances into numerous rooms, very ingeniously
contrived. Opposite the grand gate stands a fair and sumptuous tomb,
most artificially inlaid with mother-of-pearl, and inclosed by a stone
ballustrade curiously carved; the ceiling being curiously plastered and
painted. In this tomb is deposited the body of a _calender_, or
Mahometan devotee, at whose cost the whole of this splendid mosque was
built. Under the court-yard is a goodly tank of excellent water; none
other being to be had in the whole extent of the city, except brackish
and corroding, by the use of which so great a mortality was occasioned
among the inhabitants of this city, that Akbar left it before it was
quite finished, and removed his seat of empire to Agra, so that this
splendid city was built and ruined in the space of fifty or sixty years.
The name of this place at first was _Sykary_, signifying seeking or
hunting: But on his return from his pilgrimage to Ajmeer, and the
subsequent birth of his son Selim, the present emperor, Akbar, changed
its name to _Futtipoor_, or the city of content, or _heart's desire
obtained_. Without the walls, on the N.N.W. side of the city, there is a
goodly lake of two or three coss in length, abounding with excellent
fish and wild-fowl; all over which grows the herb producing the
_hermodactyle_, and another bearing a fruit like a goblet, called
_camolachachery_, both very cooling fruits. The herb which produces the
_hermodactyle_, is a weed abounding in most tanks near Agra, which
spreads over the whole surface of the water. I did not observe its leaf;
but the fruit is enclosed in a three-cornered hard woody shell, having
at each angle a sharp prickle, and is a little indented on the flat
sides, like two posterns or little doors. The fruit while green is soft
and tender, and of a mealy taste, and is much eaten in India; but, in my
opinion, it is exceedingly cold on the stomach, as I always after eating
it was inclined to take spirits. It is called _Singarra_. The
_camolachachery_, or other fruit resembling a goblet, is flat on the
top, of a soft greenish substance, within which, a little eminent, stand
six or eight fruits like acorns, divided from each other, and enclosed
in a whitish film, at first of a russet green, having the taste of nuts
or acorns, and in the midst is a small green sprig, not fit to be eaten.
_Canua_ is a small country town, eighteen c. from Agra, W. by S. around
which very good indigo is made, owing to the strength of the soil and
brackishness of the water. It makes yearly about 500 M.[243] _Ouchen_,
three c. distant, makes very good indigo; besides which no town but
Biana is comparable to Canua. The country which produces the excellent
indigo, which takes its name from Biana, is not more than twenty or
thirty coss long. The herb _nill_, from which indigo is made, grows in
form not much unlike chives or chick-pease, having a small leaf like
that of senna, but shorter and broader, set on very short foot-stalks.
The branches are hard and woody, like those of broom. The whole plant
seldom exceeds a yard high, and its stem, at the biggest in the third
year, does not much exceed the size of a man's thumb. The seed is
enclosed in a small pod about an inch long, and resembles fenugreek,
only that it is blunter at both ends, as if cut off with a knife. The
flower is small, and like hearts-ease. The seed is ripe in November, and
is then gathered. When sown, the herb continues three years on the
ground, and is cut every year in August or September, after the rains.
The herb of the first year is tender, and from it is made _notee_, which
is a heavy reddish indigo, which sinks in water, not being come to
perfection. That made from the plant of the second year, called _cyree_,
is rich, very light, of a perfect violet colour, and swims in water. In
the third year the herb is declining, and the indigo it then produces,
called _catteld_, is blackish and heavy, being the worst of the three.
When the herb is cut, it is thrown into a long cistern, where it is
pressed down by many stones, and the water is then let in so as to cover
it all over. It remains thus certain days, till all the substance of the
herb is dissolved in the water. The water is then run off into another
cistern which is round, having another small cistern in the centre. It
is here laboured or beaten with great staves, like batter or white
starch, when it is allowed to settle, and the clear water on the top is
scummed off. It is then beaten again, and again allowed to settle,
drawing off the clear water; and these alternate beatings, settlings,
and drawing off the clear water, are repeated, till nothing remain but a
thick substance. This is taken out and spread on cloths in the sun, till
it hardens to some consistence, when it is made up by hand into small
balls, laid to dry on the sand, as any other thing would drink up the
colour, and which is the cause of every ball having a sandy foot. Should
rain fall while in this situation, the indigo loses its colour and
gloss, and is called _aliad_. Some deceitfully mix the crops of all the
three years, steeping them together, which fraud is hard to be
discovered, but is very knavish. Four things are required in good
indigo; a pure grain, a violet colour, a gloss in the sun, and that it
be light and dry, so that either swimming in water or burning in the
fire it casts forth a pure light violet vapour, leaving few ashes.
[Footnote 243: The meaning of this quantity is quite unintelligible; but
may possibly mean 500 _maunds_.--E.]
The king's manner of hunting is thus. About the beginning of November,
he goes from Agra accompanied by many thousands, and hunts all the
country for thirty or forty coss round about, and so continues till the
end of March, when the great heats drive him home again. He causes a
tract of wood or desert to be encompassed about by chosen men, who
contract themselves to a near compass, and whatever is taken in this
enclosure, is called the king's _sykar_, or game, whether _men_! or
beasts, and who ever lets aught escape loses his life, unless pardoned
by the king. All the beasts thus taken, if man's meat, are sold, and the
money given to the poor: If men, they become the king's slaves, and are
sent yearly to Cabul, to be bartered for horses and dogs; these being
poor miserable and thievish people, who live in the woods and deserts,
differing little from beasts. One day while the king was hunting, about
the 6th January, 1611, he was assaulted by a lion[244] which he had
wounded with his matchlock. The ferocious animal came upon him with such
sudden violence, that he had in all probability been destroyed, had not
a Rajaput captain interposed, just as the enraged animal had _ramped_
against the king, thrusting his arm into the lion's mouth. In this
struggle, Sultan Chorem, Rajah Ranidas, and others, came up and slew the
lion, the Rajaput captain, who was tutor to the lately baptized princes,
having first received thirty-two wounds in defence of the king; who took
him into his own palanquin, and with his own hands wiped away the blood
and bound up his wounds, making him an omrah of 3000 horse, in
recompence of his valorous loyalty.
[Footnote 244: The lion of these early travellers in India was almost
certainly the tyger.--E.]
This month of January 1611, the king was providing more forces for the
Deccan war, although the king of that country offered to restore all his
conquests as the price of peace. Azam Khan was appointed general, who
went off at the head of 20,000 horse, with whom went Mohabet Khan,
another great captain, together with a vast treasure. With these forces
went _John Frenchman_ and Charles Charke[245], engaged in the king's
service for these wars.
[Footnote 245: This Charles Charke I have spoken with since in London,
after having served several years in India.--_Purch._]
The 9th January, 1611, I departed from Agra for Lahore, to recover some
debts, and carried with me twelve carts laden with indigo, in hopes of a
good price.[246] In seven days journey, I arrived at Delhi, eighty-one
coss from Agra. On the left hand is seen the ruins of old Delhi,[247]
called the Seven Castles and Fifty-two Gates, now only inhabited by
_Gogars_, or cattle herds. A short way from Delhi is a stone bridge of
eleven arches, over a branch of the Jumna, whence a broad way, shaded on
each side with great trees, leads to the tomb of Humaion, grandfather of
the present king. In a large room spread with rich carpets, this tomb is
covered by a pure white sheet, and has over it a rich _semiane_, or
canopy. In front are certain books on small tressels, beside which stand
his sword, turban, and shoes; and at the entrance are the tombs of his
wives and daughters. Beyond this, under a similar shaded road, you come
to the king's house and moholl, now ruinous. The city is two coss in
extent, between gate and gate, being surrounded by a wall which has been
strong, but is now ruinous, as are many goodly houses. Within and around
the city, are the tombs of twenty Patan kings, all very fair and
stately. All the kings of India are here crowned, otherwise they are
held usurpers. Delhi is situated in a fine plain; and about two coss
from thence are the ruins of a hunting seat, or _mole_, built by _Sultan
Bemsa_, a great Indian sovereign. It still contains much curious
stone-work; and above all the rest is seen a stone pillar, which, after
passing through three several stories, rises twenty-four feet above them
all, having on the top a globe, surmounted by a crescent. It is said
that this stone stands as much below in the earth as it rises above, and
is placed below in water, being all one stone. Some say Naserdengady, a
Patan king, wanted to take it up, but was prevented by a multitude of
scorpions. It has inscriptions.[248] In divers parts of India the like
are to be seen.
[Footnote 246: It has not been deemed necessary to retain the itinerary
of this journey, consisting of a long enumeration of the several stages
and distances, the names of which are often unintelligible. Any
circumstances of importance are however retained.--E.]
[Footnote 247: There are said to be four Delhis within five coss. The
_oldest_ was built by _Rase_; who, by advice of his magicians, tried the
ground by driving an iron stake, which came up bloody, having wounded a
snake. This the _ponde_ or magician said was a fortunate sign. The last
of this race was Rase Pethory; who, after seven times taking a Patan
king, was at last by him taken and slain. He began the Patan kingdom of
Delhi. The Patans came from the mountains between Candahar and Cabul.
The _second_ Delhi was built by Togall Shah, a Patan king. The _third_
was of little note. The _fourth_ by Sher-shah-selim, and in it is the
tomb of Humaion.--_Purchas_.]
[Footnote 248: Purchas alleges that these inscriptions are in Greek and
Hebrew and that some affirm it was erected by Alexander the Great--E.]
It is remarkable, that the quarries of India, and especially those near
Futtipoor, are of such a nature that the rock may be cleft like logs,
and sawn like planks of great length and breadth, so as to form the
ceilings of rooms and the roofs of houses. From this monument, which is
two coss from Delhi, there is said to be a subterraneous passage all the
way to Delhi castle. This place is now all in ruins, and abounds in
deer. From Delhi, in nine stages, I reached _Sirinam_, or Sirhind, where
is a fair tank with a pleasure-house in the middle, to which leads a
stone bridge of fifteen arches. From thence is a canal to a royal
garden, at the distance of a coss, with a paved road forty feet broad,
overshaded by trees on both sides. This garden is square, each side a
coss or more in length, enclosed with a brick wall, richly planted with
all kinds of fruits and flowers, and was rented, as I was told, at
40,000 rupees. It is crossed by two main walks forty feet broad, raised
on mounds eight feet high, having water in the middle in stone channels,
and thickly planted on both sides with cypress trees. At the crossing of
these walks is an octagon moholl, with eight chambers for women, and a
fair tank in the middle, over which are other eight rooms, with fair
galleries all round. The whole of this building is of stone, curiously
wrought, with much fine painting, rich carving, and stucco work, and
splendid gilding. On two sides are two other fine tanks, in the midst of
a fair stone _chounter?_ planted round with cypress trees; and at a
little distance is another moholl, but not so curious.
From Sirhind, in five stages, making forty-eight coss, I came to a
_serai_ called Fetipoor, built by the present king Shah Selim, in memory
of the overthrow of his eldest son, Sultan Cussero, on the following
occasion. On some disgust, Shah Selim took up arms in the life of his
father Akbar, and fled into _Purrop_, where he kept the strong castle of
_Alobasse_,[249] but came in and submitted about three months before his
father's death. Akbar had disinherited Selim for his rebellion, giving
the kingdom to Sultan Cussero, Selim's eldest son. But after the death
of Akbar, Selim, by means of his friends, got possession of the castle
and treasure. Cussero fled to Lahore, where he raised about 12,000
horse, all good Mogul soldiers, and getting possession of the suburbs,
was then proclaimed king, while his father was proclaimed in the castle.
After twelve days came Melek Ali the Cutwall against him, beating the
king's drums, though Selim was some twenty coss in the rear; and giving
a brave assault, shouting _God save King Selim_, the prince's soldiers
lost heart and fled, leaving only five attendants with the prince, who
fled and got thirty coss beyond Lahore, in his way to Cabul. But having
to pass a river, and offering gold _mohors_ in payment of his passage,
the boatman grew suspicious, leapt overboard in the middle of the river,
and swam on shore, where he gave notice to the governor of a
neighbouring town. Taking fifty horse with him, the governor came to the
river side, where the boat still floated in the stream; and taking
another boat, went and saluted Cussero by the title of King,
dissemblingly offering his aid and inviting him to his house, where he
made him prisoner, and sent immediate notice to the king, who sent to
fetch him fettered on an elephant. From thence Selim proceeded to Cabul,
punishing such as had joined in the revolt; and on his return with his
son a prisoner, at this place, _Fetipoor_, where the battle was fought,
as some say, he caused the eyes of Cussero to be burnt out with a glass,
while others say he only caused him to be blindfolded with a napkin,
tied behind and sealed with his own seal, which yet remains, and carried
him prisoner to the castle of Agra. Along all the way from Agra to
Cabul, the king ordered trees to be planted on both sides; and in
remembrance of the exploit at this place, he caused it to be named
Fetipoor, or _Heart's Content_, as the city formerly mentioned had been
named by Akbar in memory of his birth.[250]
[Footnote 249: Purrop, or Porub, has been formerly supposed the ancient
kingdom of Porus in the Punjab, and Attobass, here called Alobasse, to
have been Attock Benares--E.]
[Footnote 250: There are several places in India of this name, but that
in the text at this place is not now to be found in our maps, on the
road between Delhi and Lahore.--E.]
From hence I went to Lahore, twenty-nine coss, in three stages, arriving
there on the 4th of February, 1611. The 28th there arrived here a
Persian ambassador from Shah Abbas, by whom I learnt that the way to
Candahar was now clear, having been impassable in consequence of the
war occasioned by Gelole, a Turk, who had tied to Persia with 10,000
Turks, when, having got a jagheer on the frontiers, he endeavoured to
make himself independent, but was overthrown, and lost his head.
§ 6. _Description of Lahore, with other Observations_.
Lahore is one of the greatest cities of the east, being near twenty-four
coss in circuit, round which a great ditch is now digging, the king
having commanded the whole city to be surrounded by a strong wall. In
the time of the Patan empire of Delhi, Lahore was only a village,
Mooltan being then a flourishing city, till Humaion thought proper to
enlarge Lahore, which now, including its suburbs, is about six coss in
extent. The castle or royal town is surrounded by a brick wall, which is
entered by twelve handsome gates, three of which open to the banks of
the river, and the other nine towards the land. The streets are well
paved, and the inhabitants are mostly Banyan handicrafts, all white men
of any note living in the suburbs. The buildings are fair and high of
brick, with much curious carvings about the doors and windows; and most
of the Gentiles have their house doors raised six or seven steps from
the street, and of troublesome ascent, partly for greater security, and
to prevent passengers from seeing into their houses. The castle is built
on the S.E. bank of the _Rauvee_, a river that flows into the Indus, and
down which many barges of sixty tons and upwards navigate to Tatta in
Sindy, after the falling of the rains, being a voyage of about forty
days, passing by Mooltan, Sidpoor, Backar, &c.
The river Rauvee comes from the N.E. and passing the north side of the
city, runs W.S.W. to join the Indus. Within the castle is the king's
palace, which is on the side towards the river, and is entered by the
middle gate on that side, after entering which, you go into the palace
by a strong gate on the left hand, and a musket-shot farther by a
smaller gate, into a large square court, surrounded by _atescanna_, in
which the king's guard keeps watch. Beyond this, and turning again to
the left, you enter by another gate into an inner court, in which the
king holds his _durbar_, or court, all round which are _atescannas_,[251]
in which the great men keep watch, and in the middle of the court is a
high pole on which to hang a light. From thence you go up to a fair stone
_jounter_, or small court, in the middle of which stands a fair
_devoncan_,[252] with two or three retiring rooms, in which the king
usually spends the early part of the night, from eight to eleven o'clock.
On the walls is the king's picture, sitting cross-legged on a chair of
state, on his right hand Sultan Parvis, Sultan Chorem, and Sultan Timor,
his sons; next whom are Shah Morat and Don Shah, his brothers, the three
princes who were baptized being sons of this last. Next to them is the
picture of Eemersee Sheriff, eldest brother to Khan Azam, with those of
many of the principal people of the court. It is worthy likewise of notice,
that in this hall are conspicuously placed the pictures of our Saviour and
the Virgin Mary.
[Footnote 251: This unexplained word probably signifies a corridore, or
covered gallery.--E.]
[Footnote 252: Perhaps a divan, or audience hall.--E.]
From this _devoncan_, or hall of audience, which is pleasantly situated,
overlooking the river, passing a small gate to the west, you enter
another small court, where is another open stone _chounter_ to sit in,
covered with rich _semianes_, or canopies. From hence you enter a
gallery, at the end of which nest the river is a small window, from
which the king looks forth at his _dersanee_, to behold the fights of
wild beasts on a meadow beside the river. On the walls of this gallery
are the pictures of the late Emperor Akbar, the present sovereign, and
all his sons. At the end is a small _devoncan_, where the king usually
sits, and behind it is his bed-chamber, and before it an open paved
court, along the right-hand side of which is a small _moholl_ of two
stories, each containing eight fair chambers for several women, with
galleries and windows looking both to the river and the court. All the
doors of these chambers are made to be fastened on the outside, and not
within. In the gallery, where the king usually sits, there are many
pictures of angels, intermixed with those of banian _dews_, or devils
rather, being of most ugly shapes, with long horns, staring eyes, shaggy
hair, great paws and fangs, long tails, and other circumstances of
horrible deformity, that I wonder the poor women are not frightened at
them.
Returning to the former court, where the _adees_, or guards, keep
watch, you enter by another gate into the new durbar, beyond which are
several apartments, and a great square moholl, sufficient to lodge two
hundred women in state, all having several apartments. From the same
court of guard, passing right on, you enter another small paved court,
and thence into another moholl, the stateliest of all, containing
sixteen separate suites of large apartments, each having a _devoncan_,
or hall, and several chambers, each lady having her tank, and enjoying a
little separate world of pleasures and state to herself, all pleasantly
situated, overlooking the river. Before the moholl appropriated to the
mother of Sultan Cussero, is a high pole for carrying a light, as before
the king, as she brought forth the emperor's first son and heir.
Before this gallery is a fair paved court, with stone gratings and
windows along the water; beneath which is a pleasure garden; and behind
are the king's principal lodgings, most sumptuously decorated, all the
walls and ceilings being laid over with pure gold, and along the sides,
about man's height, a great number of Venetian mirrors, about three feet
asunder, and in threes over each other; and below are many pictures of
the king's ancestors, as Akbar his father, Humaion his grandfather,
Babur his great-grandfather, the first of the race who set foot on
India, together with thirty of his nobles, all clad as calenders or
fakiers. In that disguise Babur and his thirty nobles came to Delhi to
the court of Secunder, then reigning, where Babur was discovered, yet
dismissed under an oath not to attempt any hostilities during the life
of Secunder, which he faithfully performed. On the death of Secunder,
Babur sent his son Humaion against his successor Abram, from whom he
conquered the whole kingdom. There afterwards arose a great captain, of
the displaced royal family in Bengal, who fought a great battle against
Humaion near the Ganges, and having defeated him, continued the pursuit
till he took refuge in the dominions of Persia; where he procured new
forces, under the command of Byram, father to the Khan Khana, and
reconquered all, living afterwards in security. On the death of Humaion,
Akbar was very young, and Byram Khan was left protector of the realm.
When Akbar grew up, and assumed the reins of government, he cast off
Byram, and is said to have made away with him, when on a _roomery_, or
pilgrimage to Mecca. The son of Byram, Khan-khana, or khan of the
khans, in conjunction with his friends and allies, is a great curb on
Shah Selim, being able to bring into the field upwards of 100,000 horse.
Shah Selim affirms himself to be the ninth in lineal male descent from
Tamerlane, or Timur the Great, emperor of the Moguls.[253]
[Footnote 253: We have here left out a farther description of the palace
and other buildings at Lahore, which in fact convey little or no
information.--E.]
The 17th of May came news that the Patan thieves had sacked the city of
Cabul, having come suddenly against it from their mountains with 11,000
foot and 1000 horse, while the governor was absent on other affairs at
Jalalabad, and the garrison so weak that it was only able to defend the
castle. In six hours they plundered the city, and retired with their
booty. For the better keeping these rebels in order, the king has
established twenty-three omrahs between Lahore and Cabul, yet all will
not do, as they often sally from their mountains, robbing caravans and
plundering towns. The 18th of August, there arrived a great caravan from
Persia, by whom we had news of the French king's death, from an Armenian
who had been in the service of Mr Boys.
On the west side of the castle of Lahore is the ferry for crossing over
the Rauvee on the way to Cabul, which is 271 cosses, and thence to
Tartary and Cashgar. Cabul is a large and fair city, the first seat of
the present king's great-grandfather Babur. At forty cosses beyond is
_Gorebond_, or Gourhund, a great city bordering on Usbeck Tartary; and
150 coss from Cabul is _Taul Caun_, a city in _Buddocsha_, or Badakshan
of Bucharia. From Cabul to Cashgar, with the caravan, it is two or three
months journey, Cashgar being a great kingdom under the Tartars. A chief
city of trade in that country is _Yarcan_, whence comes much silk,
porcelain, musk, and rhubarb, with other commodities; all or most of
which come from China, the gate or entrance into which is some two or
three months farther. When the caravan comes to this entrance, it must
remain under tents, sending by licence some ten or fifteen merchants at
once to transact their business, on whose return as many more may be
sent; but on no account can the whole caravan be permitted to enter at
once.
From Lahore to Cashmere, the road goes first, part of the way to Cabul,
to a town called Gojrat, forty-four coss; whence it turns north and
somewhat easterly seventy coss, when it ascends a high mountain called
_Hast-caunk-gaut_, on the top of which is a fine plain, after which is
twelve coss through a goodly country to Cashmere, which is a strong city
on the river Bebut, otherwise called the Ihylum, or Collumma. The
country of Cashmere is a rich and fertile plain among the mountains,
some 150 coss in length, and 50 broad, abounding in fruits, grain, and
saffron, and having beautiful fair women. This country is cold, and
subjected to great frosts and heavy falls of snow, being near to
Cashgar, yet separated by such prodigious mountains that there is no
passage for caravans. Much silk and other goods are however often
brought this way by men, without the aid of animals, and the goods have
in many places to be drawn up or let down over precipices by means of
ropes. On these mountains dwells a small king called Tibbet,[254] who
lately sent one of his daughters to Shah Selim, by way of making
affinity.
[Footnote 254: Little Thibet, a country hardly known in geography, is on
the north-west of Cashmere, beyond the northern chain of the Vindhia
mountains.--E.]
Nicholas Uphet, [or Ufflet] went from Agra to Surat by a different way
from that by which I came, going by the mountains of Narwar, which
extend to near Ahmedabad in Guzerat. Upon these mountains stands the
impregnable castle of _Gur Chitto_, or Chitore, the chief seat of the
_Ranna_, a very powerful rajah, whom neither the Patans, nor Akbar
himself, was ever able to subdue. Owing to all India having been
formerly belonging to the Gentiles, and this prince having always been,
and is still, esteemed in equal reverence as the pope is by the
catholics, those rajahs who have been sent against him have always made
some excuses for not being able to do much injury to his territories,
which extend towards Ahmednagur 150 great cosses, and in breadth 200
cosses towards Oogain, mostly composed of, or inclosed by inaccessible
mountains, well fortified by art in many places. This rajah is able on
occasion to raise 12,000 good horse, and holds many fair towns and
goodly cities.
Ajmeer, the capital of a kingdom or province of that name, west from
Agra, stands on the top of an inaccessible mountain, three coss in
ascent, being quite impregnable. The city at the foot of the hill is not
great, but is well built and surrounded by a stone wall and ditch. It is
chiefly famous for the tomb of Haji Mundee, a saint much venerated by
the Moguls, to which, as formerly mentioned, Akbar made a _roomery_, or
pilgrimage on foot, from Agra, to obtain a son. Before coming to this
tomb, you have to pass through three fair courts; the first, covering
near an acre of ground, all paved with black and white marble, in which
many of Mahomet's cursed kindred are interred. In this court is a fair
tank all lined with stone. The second court is paved like the former,
but richer, and is twice as large as the Exchange at London, having in
the middle a curious candlestick with many lights. The third court is
entered by a brazen gate of curious workmanship, and is the fairest of
all, especially near the door of the sepulchre, where the pavement is
curiously laid in party-coloured stones. The door is large, and all
inlaid with mother-of-pearl, and the pavement about the tomb is all
mosaic of different-coloured marbles. The tomb itself is splendidly
adorned with mother-of-pearl and gold, having an epitaph in Persian. At
a little distance stands his seat in an obscure corner, where he used to
sit foretelling future events, and which is highly venerated. On the
east side are three other fair courts with each a fair tank; and on the
north and west are several handsome houses, inhabited by _sidèes_, or
Mahometan priests. No person is allowed to enter any of these places
except bare-footed.
Beyond Ajmeer to the west and south-west, are Meerat Joudpoor and
Jalour, which last is a castle on the top of a steep mountain, three
coss in ascent, by a fair stone causeway,[255] broad enough for two men.
At the end of the first coss is a gate and court of guard, where the
causeway is enclosed on both sides with walls. At the end of the second
coss is a double gate strongly fortified; and at the third coss is the
castle, which is entered by three successive gates. The first is very
strongly plated with iron; the second not so strong, with places above
for throwing down melted lead or boiling oil; and the third is thickly
beset with iron spikes. Between each of these gates are spacious places
of arms, and at the inner gate is a strong portcullis. A bow-shot within
the castle is a splendid pagoda, built by the founders of the castle,
ancestors of Gidney Khan, who were Gentiles. He turned Mahometan, and
deprived his elder brother of this castle by the following stratagem:
Having invited him and his women to a banquet, which his brother
requited by a similar entertainment, he substituted chosen soldiers well
armed instead of women, sending them two and two in a _dowle_,[256] who,
getting in by this device, gained possession of the gates, and held the
place for the Great Mogul, to whom it now appertains, being one of the
strongest situated forts in the world.
[Footnote 255: This is probably a stair.--E.]
[Footnote 256: A dowle, dowly, or dooly, is a chair or cage, in which
their women are carried on men's shoulders.--_Purch._]
About half a coss within the gate is a goodly square tank, cut out of
the solid rock, said to be fifty fathoms deep, and full of excellent
water. A little farther on is a goodly plain, shaded with many fine
trees, beyond which, on a small conical hill, is the sepulchre of King
_Hasswaard_, who was a great soldier in his life, and has been since
venerated as a great saint by the people in these parts. Near this place
is said to be kept a huge snake, twenty-five feet long, and as thick as
the body of a man, which the people will not hurt. This castle, which is
eight coss in circuit, is considered as the gate or frontier of Guzerat.
Beyond it is Beelmahl, the ancient wall of which is still to be seen,
near twenty-four coss in circuit, containing many fine tanks going to
ruin. From thence to Ahmedabad or Amadaver, by Rhadunpoor, is a deep
sandy country.
Ahmedabad is a goodly city on a fine river, the Mohindry, inclosed with
strong walls and fair gates, with many beautiful towers. The castle is
large and strong, in which resides the son of Azam Khan, who is viceroy
in these parts. The streets are large and well paved, and the buildings
are comparable to those of any town in Asia. It has great trade; for
almost every ten days there go from hence 200 _coaches_[257] richly
laden with merchandize for Cambay. The merchants here are rich, and the
artisans very expert in carvings, paintings, inlaid works, and
embroidery in gold and silver. At an hour's warning this place has 6000
horse in readiness: The gates are continually and strictly guarded, no
person being allowed to enter without a licence, or to depart without a
pass. These precautions are owing to the neighbourhood of Badur, whose
strong-hold is only fifty coss to the east, where nature, with some aid
from art, has fortified him against all the power of the Moguls, and
whence some four years ago, proclaiming liberty and laws of good
fellowship,[258] he sacked Cambaya by a sudden assault of 100,000 men,
drawn together by the hope of plunder, and with whom he retained
possession for fourteen days.
[Footnote 257: Perhaps camels ought to be substituted for coaches; or at
least _carts_ drawn by bullocks.--E.]
[Footnote 258: This is very singular, to find _liberty and equality_ in
the mouths of Indian despots and slaves.--E.]
Between Ahmedabad and _Trage_, there is a rajah in the mountains, who is
able to bring 17,000 horse and foot into the field, his people, called
_Collees_ or _Quuliees_, inhabiting a desert wilderness, which preserves
him from being conquered. On the right hand is another rajah, able to
raise 10,000 horse, who holds an impregnable castle in a desert plain.
His country was subject to the government of Gidney Khan, but he has
stood on his defence for seven years, refusing to pay tribute. This
rajah is reported to have a race of horses superior to all others in the
east, and said to be swifter than those of Arabia, and able to continue
at reasonable speed a whole day without once stopping; of which he is
said to have a stud of 100 mares. From _Jalore_ to the city of
Ahmedabad, the whole way is through a sandy and woody country, full of
thievish beastly men, and savage beasts, as lions, tygers, &c. About
thirty coss round Ahmedabad, indigo is made, called _cickell_, from a
town of that name four coss from Ahmedabad, but this is not so good as
that of Biana.
Cambaya is thirty-eight coss from Ahmedabad, by a road through sands and
woods, much infested by thieves. Cambay is on the coast of a gulf of the
same name, encompassed by a strong brick wall, having high and handsome
houses, forming straight paved streets, each of which has a gate at
either end. It has an excellent bazar, abounding in cloth of all kinds,
and valuable drugs, and is so much frequented by the Portuguese, that
there are often 200 frigates or grabs riding there. The gulf or bay is
eight coss over, and is exceedingly dangerous to navigate on account of
the great _bore_, which drowns many, so that it requires skilful pilots
well acquainted with the tides. At neap tides is the least danger.
Thieves also, when you are over the channel, are not a little dangerous,
forcing merchants, if not the better provided, to quit their goods, or
by long dispute betraying them to the fury of the tide, which comes
with such swiftness that it is ten to one if any escape. Cambay is
infested with an infinite number of monkies, which are continually
leaping from house to house, doing much mischief and untiling the
houses, so that people in the streets are in danger of being felled by
the falling stones.
Five coss from Cambay is _Jumbosier_, now much ruined, and thence
eighteen coss to Broach, a woody and dangerous journey, in which are
many peacocks. Within four coss of Broach is a great mine of agates.
Broach is a fair castle, seated on a river twice as broad as the Thames,
called the _Nerbuddah_, the mouth of which is twelve coss from thence.
Here are made rich _baffatas_, much surpassing Holland cloth in
fineness, which cost fifty rupees the _book_, each of fourteen English
yards, not three quarters broad. Hence to _Variaw_, twenty coss, is a
goodly country, fertile, and full of villages, abounding in wild date
trees, which are usually plentiful by the sea-side in most places, from
which they draw a liquor called _Tarrie, Sure_, or _Toddic_, as also
from a wild cocoa-tree called _Tarrie_. Hence to Surat is three coss,
being the close of the itinerary of Nicolas Ufflet.
The city of Agra has not been in repute above 50 years,[259] having only
been a village till the reign of Akbar, who removed his residence to
this place from Futtipoor, as already mentioned, for want of good water.
It is now a large city, and populous beyond measure, so that it is very
difficult to pass through the streets, which are mostly narrow and
dirty, save only the great Bazar and a few others, which are large and
handsome. The city is somewhat in the form of a crescent, on the
convexity of a bend of the Jumna, being about five coss in length on the
land side, and as much along the banks of the river, on which are many
goodly houses of the nobles, overlooking the Jumna, which runs with a
swift current from N.W. to S.E. to join the Ganges. On the banks of the
river stands the castle, one of the fairest and most admirable buildings
in all the East, some three or four miles in circuit, inclosed by a fine
and strong wall of squared stones, around which is a fair ditch with
draw-bridges. The walls are built with bulwarks or towers somewhat
defensible, having a counterscarp without, some fifteen yards broad.
Within are two other strong walls with gates.
[Footnote 259: This of course is to be understood as referring back from
1611, when Finch was there. We have here omitted a long uninteresting
and confused account of many parts of India, which could only have
swelled our pages, without conveying any useful information.--E.]
There are four gales to the castle. One to the north, leading to a
rampart having many large cannon. Another westwards, leading to the
Bazar, called the _Cichery_ gate, within which is the judgment-seat of
the _casi_, or chief judge in all matters of law; and beside this gate
are two or three _murderers_, or very large pieces of brass cannon, one
of which is fifteen feet long and three feet diameter in the bore. Over
against the judgment-seat of the _casi_, is the _Cichery_, or court of
rolls, where the grand vizier sits about three hours every morning,
through whose hands pass all matters respecting rents, grants, lands,
firmans, debts, &c. Beyond these two gates, you pass a third leading
into a fair street, with houses and _munition_ along both sides; and at
the end of this street, being a quarter of a mile long, you come to the
third gate, which leads to the king's _durbar_. This gate is always
chained, all men alighting here except the king and his children. This
gate is called _Akbar drowage_; close within which many hundred dancing
girls and singers attend day and night, to be ever ready when the king
or any of his women please to send for them, to sing and dance in the
moholls, all of them having stipends from the king according to their
respective unworthy worth.
The fourth gate is to the river, called the _Dersane_, leading to a fair
court extending along the river, where the king looks out every morning
at sun-rising, which he salutes, and then his nobles resort to their
_tessilam_. Right under the place where he looks out, is a kind of
scaffold on which the nobles stand, but the _addees_ and others wait in
the court below. Here likewise the king comes every day at noon to see
the _tamashan_, or fighting with elephants, lions, and buffaloes, and
killing of deer by leopards. This is the custom every day of the week
except Sunday,[260] on which there is no fighting. Tuesdays are
peculiarly the days of blood both for fighting beasts and killing men;
as on that day the king sits in judgment, and sees it put in execution.
Within the third gate, formerly mentioned, you enter a spacious court,
with _atescannas_ all arched round, like shops or open stalls, in which
the king's captains, according to their several degrees keep their
seventh day _chockees_.[261] A little farther on you enter through a
rail into an inner court, into which none are admitted except the king's
_addees_, and men of some quality, under pain of a hearty thwacking from
the porter's cudgels, which they lay on load without respect of persons.
[Footnote 260: Probably Friday is here meant, being the Sabbath of the
Mahometans.--E.]
[Footnote 261: Mr Finch perpetually forgets that his readers in England
were not acquainted with the language of India, and leaves these eastern
terms unexplained; in which he has been inconveniently copied by most
subsequent travellers in the East. _Chockees_ in the text, probably
means turns of duty on guard.--E.]
Being entered, you approach the king's _durbar_, or royal seat, before
which is a small court inclosed with rails, and covered over head with
rich _semianes_, or awnings, to keep away the sun. Here aloft in a
gallery sits the king in his chair of state, accompanied by his sons and
chief vizier, who go up by a short ladder from the court, none other
being allowed to go up unless called, except two _punkaws_ to fan him,
and right before him is a third _punkaw_ on a scaffold, who makes havock
of the poor flies with a horse's tail. On the wall behind the king, on
his right hand, is a picture of our Saviour, and on his left, of the
Virgin. On the farther side of the court of presence hang golden bells,
by ringing which, if any one be oppressed, and is refused justice by the
king's officers, he is called in and the matter discussed before the
king. But let them be sure their cause is good, lest they be punished
for presuming to trouble the king. The king comes to his durbar every
day between three and four o'clock, when thousands resort to shew their
duty, every one taking place according to his rank. He remains here till
the evening, hearing various matters, receiving news or letters, which
are read by his viziers, granting suits, and so forth: All which time
the royal drum continually beats, and many instruments of music are
sounded from a gallery on the opposite building. His elephants and
horses in the mean time are led past, in brave order, doing their
_tessilam_, or obeisance, and are examined by proper officers to see
that they are properly cared for, and in a thriving condition.
Some add[262] that Agra has no walls, and is only surrounded by a dry
ditch, beyond which are extensive suburbs, the city and suburbs being
seven miles long and three broad. The houses of the nobility and
merchants are built of brick and stone, with flat roofs, but those of
the common people have only mud walls and thatched roofs, owing to which
there are often terrible fires. The city has six gates. The river
_Jumna_ is broader than the Thames at London, and has many boats and
barges, some of them of 100 tons burden; but these cannot return against
the stream. From Agra to Lahore, a distance of 600 miles, the road is
set on both sides with mulberry trees.
[Footnote 262: At this place, Purchas remarks, "that this addition is
from a written book, entitled, A Discourse of Agra and the Four
principal Ways to it. I know not by what author, unless it be Nicholas
Ufflet."--_Purch._]
The tomb of the late emperor Akbar is three coss from Agra, on the road
to Lahore, in the middle of a large and beautiful garden, surrounded
with brick walls, near two miles in circuit. It is to have four gates,
only one of which is yet in hand, each of which, if answerable to their
foundations, will be able to receive a great prince with a reasonable
train. On the way-side is a spacious _moholl_, intended by the king for
his father's women to remain and end their days, deploring for their
deceased lord, each enjoying the lands they formerly held, the chief
having the pay or rents of 5000 horse. In the centre of this garden is
the tomb, a square of about three quarters of a mile in circuit. The
first inclosure is a curious rail, to which you ascend by six steps into
a small square garden, divided into quarters, having fine tanks; the
whole garden being planted with a variety of sweet-smelling flowers and
shrubs. Adjoining to this is the tomb, likewise square, all of hewn
stone, with spacious galleries on each side, having a small beautiful
turret at each corner, arched over head, and covered with fine marble.
Between corner and corner are four other turrets at equal distances.
Here, within a golden coffin, reposes the body of the late monarch, who
sometimes thought the world too small for him. It is nothing near
finished, after ten years labour, although there are continually
employed on the mausoleum and other buildings, as the moholl and gates,
more than 3000 men. The stone is brought from an excellent quarry near
Futtipoor, formerly mentioned, and may be cut like timber by means of
saws, so that planks for ceilings are made from it, almost of any size.