“Lavoro a maglia quadra,” or “lacis,” darned netting, or filet,

still in the frame. Made by Mrs. Edward Rowland (Sarah Belknap), of

Waterbury, Connecticut, born June 27, 1837, for a lace exhibition at

the Hartford Athenæum in February, 1907. Mrs. Rowland learned to make

lace in Florence, Italy. Owned by Miss Edith Beach, of West Hartford,

Connecticut.]

[Illustration: _Plate 102._

The same kind of lace as that shown in Plate 101, sewed on satin and

trimmed with pillow and bobbin lace. Made by Elsie Belknap, born in

Hartford, Connecticut, November 4, 1863; married Mr. R. E. K. Whiting;

died September 23, 1907. She was taught to make lace by Miss Edith

Beach. Owned by Miss Edith Beach, of West Hartford, Connecticut.]

[Illustration: _Plate 103._

Chalice-veil. Designed and embroidered from a number of pieces of

sixteenth-century Italian cut-work—reticella and punto reale—by Miss

Margaret Taylor Johnstone, of New York and Paris. Exhibited at the

Société Nationale des Beaux Arts, and also at the Musée des Arts

Décoratifs, in the early years of this century. It is signed M. T. J.

in the border. Original photograph reduced one-third.

Some thirty years ago Miss Johnstone gathered together a little class

of workers at the Society of Decorative Art in New York City and taught

them these stitches. The work prospered, with the aid of designs found

in various public and private collections, and continued for over

a quarter of a century, when this association, which had been the

mother-society of beautiful embroidery in New York, ceased to exist.

Miss Johnstone also prepared the rearrangement of the Lace Collection

in the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York City, in 1906–1907, on

lines suggested by her to the expert, Frau Kubasek, of Vienna, who

was brought to New York by the Museum for this purpose. She brought

with her a trunk of four hundred specimens of embroidery and lace

collected by Miss Johnstone from friends in Paris and New York, and

labelled and classified according to her own extended classification.

These specimens were accepted for the Museum by the Director, Sir

Caspar Purdon Clarke, whose love of decorative art was a benefit to

the Museum. Since that time the collection of laces has so increased

that it is probably surpassed only by that in the Victoria and Albert

Museum, of London.]

[Illustration: _Plate 104._

_Figure 1._ Blue paper pattern for lace to be made on a pillow with

thread on bobbins. Part of the design was worked and is shown in the

small piece of lace beside the pattern. Made and owned by Miss Edith

Beach, of West Hartford, Connecticut.

_Figure 2._ Lace made on a pillow with thread on bobbins. Although

similar in appearance to tape lace, it is quite different, being

entirely worked with linen thread on bobbins, on a pillow. Made and

owned by Miss Edith Beach.]

[Illustration: _Plate 105._

Lace, unfinished, being made for a fan, on a pillow with thread on

bobbins. The design is adapted for this purpose from one in _The Art of

Bobbin Lace_, by Louisa A. Tebbs, Chapman and Hall, Ltd., London, 1908.

Made and owned by Miss Edith Beach, of West Hartford, Connecticut.]

[Illustration: _Plate 106._

Blue paper pattern for making Venetian point lace (needle-point), and

the lace in process of making. It consists mainly of very fine, close

buttonholing with a sewing needle. Owned by Miss Edith Beach, of West

Hartford, Connecticut. These laces have been made since 1904 by Miss

Beach. She was taught lace-making by her aunt, Sarah Belknap (Mrs.

Edward Rowland); see Plate 101.]

[Illustration: _Plate 107._

_Figure 1_ (at top). Machine-made net in the piece.

_Figure 2._ The same kind of net with stitches dropped at regular

intervals to serve as guides for cutting it into footing, or strips for

embroidering or darning as trimming lace.

Between _Figures 1_ and _2_ are shown samples of beading, or purling,

to be sewn on the edge of the trimming lace.

(_Plates 107–109 show net made by machine at the “lace shop”

established and operated by Dean Walker in Medway, Massachusetts,

between 1818 and 1827. See Introduction, pp. 4–5; also Plate 110 and

caption. The originals shown are in the possession of Dean Walker’s

granddaughter, Miss Sophia A. Walker, of New York City._)]

[Illustration: _Plate 108._

_Figure 1_ (at top). Trimming lace on machine-made net. Darned by

Clarissa Richardson, about 1830, on net made by Dean Walker at the

“lace shop.” (See caption of Plate 107.) It consists of two pieces of

straight-edge fagotted together.

_Figure 2._ Trimming lace on machine-made net. Darned by Julia Adams

(Mrs. Horatio Mason) on net made at Dean Walker’s “lace shop.” Purling

is added to the waved edge.]

[Illustration: _Plate 109._

Cap embroidered on machine-made net. Made about 1820 by Julia Adams

(Mrs. Horatio Mason), the maternal grandmother of the present owner,

Miss Sophia A. Walker, of New York City. (See caption of Plate 108,

_Figure 2_.) The net was made by Dean Walker at the “lace shop” in

Medway. The frill of the cap has been removed for another use.]

[Illustration: _Plate 110._

Silver medal awarded to Dean Walker in 1825 by the Franklin Institute

of the State of Pennsylvania, for the net made at his “lace shop” in

Medway, Massachusetts. (See Introduction, pp. 4–5; also Plates 107–109

and captions.) Owned by William T. Walker, a great-grandson of Dean

Walker.]

TRANSCRIBER’S NOTE

Text from images has been appended to the caption.

Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been corrected

after careful comparison with other occurrences within the text and

consultation of external sources.

All misspellings in the text, and inconsistent or archaic usage, have

been retained.

American lace & lace-makers · 第 4 / 4 段