A PRACTICAL TREATISE
ON THE
MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMERY:
COMPRISING
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING ALL KINDS OF PERFUMES, SACHET
POWDERS, FUMIGATING MATERIALS, DENTIFRICES,
COSMETICS, ETC., ETC.,
WITH A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE
VOLATILE OILS, BALSAMS, RESINS, AND OTHER NATURAL
AND ARTIFICIAL PERFUME-SUBSTANCES, INCLUDING
THE MANUFACTURE OF FRUIT ETHERS, AND
TESTS OF THEIR PURITY.
BY
DR. C. DEITE,
ASSISTED BY L. BORCHERT, F. EICHBAUM, E. KUGLER,
H. TOEFFNER, AND OTHER EXPERTS.
FROM THE GERMAN BY
WILLIAM T. BRANNT,
EDITOR OF "THE TECHNO-CHEMICAL RECEIPT-BOOK."
ILLUSTRATED BY TWENTY-EIGHT ENGRAVINGS.
PHILADELPHIA:
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.,
INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS,
810 WALNUT STREET.
1892.
COPYRIGHT BY
HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.
1892.
PRINTED AT THE COLLINS PRINTING HOUSE,
705 Jayne Street,
PHILADELPHIA, U. S. A.
PREFACE.
A translation of the portion of the "Handbuch der Parfümerie-und
Toiletteseifenfabrikation," edited by Dr. C. DEITE, relating to
perfumery and cosmetics, is presented to the English reading public
with the full confidence that it will not only fill a useful place
in technical literature, but will also prove--for what it is chiefly
intended--a ready book of reference and a practical help and guide for
the perfumer's laboratory. The names of the editor and his co-workers
are a sufficient guaranty of its value and practical usefulness, they
all being experienced men, well schooled each in the particular branch
of the industry, the treatment of which has been assigned to him.
The most suitable and approved formulæ, tested by experience, have been
given; and special attention has been paid to the description of the
raw materials, as well as to the various methods of testing them, the
latter being of special importance, since in no other industry has the
manufacturer to contend with such gross and universal adulteration of
raw materials.
It is hoped that the additions made here and there by the translator,
as well as the portion relating to the manufacture of "Fruit Ethers,"
added by him, may contribute to the interest and usefulness of the
treatise.
Finally, it remains only to be stated that, with their usual
liberality, the publishers have spared no expense in the proper
illustration and the mechanical production of the book; and, as is
their universal practice, have caused it to be provided with a copious
table of contents and a very full index, which will add additional
value by rendering any subject in it easy and prompt of reference.
W. T. B.
PHILADELPHIA, May 2, 1892.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
HISTORICAL NOTICE OF PERFUMERY.
PAGE
Consumption of perfume-substances by the early nations of
the Orient 17
Perfume-substances as an offering to the gods and their use
for embalming the dead; Arts of the toilet in ancient times 18
Perfume-substances used by the Hebrews; Olibanum and
the mode of gaining it in ancient times, as described by
Herodotus 19
Pliny's account of olibanum 20
Practice of anointing the entire body customary among the
ancients; The holy oil prescribed by Moses; Origin of
the sweet-scented ointment "myron" 21
Luxurious use of ointments in Athens, and the special ointments
used for each part of the body; Introduction of ointments in
Rome, and edict prohibiting the sale of foreign ointments;
Plutarch on the extravagant use of ointments in Rome 22
Ancient books containing directions for preparing ointments;
Directions for rose ointment, according to Dioscorides 23
Ancient process of distilling volatile oils; Dioscorides's
directions for making animal fats suitable for the reception of
perfumes; Consumption of perfume-substances by the ancient
Romans; Condition of the ancient ointment-makers 24
Use of red and white paints, hair-dyes, and depilatories by
the Romans 25
Peculiar substance for cleansing the teeth used by the Roman
ladies; Perfumeries and cosmetics in the Middle Ages;
Receipts for cosmetics in the writings of Arabian physicians,
and of Guy de Chanlios 26
Giovanni Marinello's work on "Cosmetics for Ladies;" Introduction
of the arts of the toilet into France, by Catherine de Medici
and Margaret of Valois 27
Extravagant use of cosmetics in France from the commencement
of the seventeenth to the middle of the eighteenth century 28
Importance of the perfumer's craft in France; Chief seats
of the French perfumery industry 29
Privileges of the _parfumeurs-gantiers_ in France; Use of
perfumes in England; Act of Parliament prohibiting the use of
perfumeries, false hair, etc., for deceiving a man and inveigling
him into matrimony 30