139. Now, these buttresses present one of the most extraordinary and

striking instances of the beauty of adaptation of style to locality and

peculiarity of circumstance, that can be met with in the whole range of

architectural investigation. Taken in the abstract, they are utterly

detestable, formal, clumsy, and apparently unnecessary. Their builder

thinks so himself: he hates them as things to be looked at, though he

erects them as things to be depended upon. He has no idea that there is

any propriety in their presence, though he knows perfectly well that

there is a great deal of necessity; and, therefore he builds them.

Where? On rocks whose sides are one mass of buttresses, of precisely the

same form; on rocks which are cut and cloven by basalt and lava dikes

of every size, and which, being themselves secondary, wear away

gradually by exposure to the atmosphere, leaving the intersecting dikes

standing out in solid and vertical walls, from the faces of their

precipices. The eye passes over heaps of scoriæ and sloping banks of

ashes, over the huge ruins of more ancient masses, till it trembles for

the fate of the crags still standing round; but it finds them ribbed

with basalt like bones, buttressed with a thousand lava walls, propped

upon pedestals and pyramids of iron, which the pant and the pulse of the

earthquake itself can scarcely move, for they are its own work; it

climbs up to their summits, and there it finds the work of man; but it

is no puny domicile, no eggshell imagination, it is in a continuation of

the mountain itself, inclined at the same slope, ribbed in the same

manner, protected by the same means against the same danger; not,

indeed, filling the eye with delight, but, which is of more importance,

freeing it from fear, and beautifully corresponding with the prevalent

lines around it, which a less massive form would have rendered, in some

cases, particularly about Etna, even ghastly. Even in the long and

luxuriant views from Capo di Monte, and the heights to the east of

Naples, the spectator looks over a series of volcanic eminences,

generally, indeed, covered with rich verdure, but starting out here and

there in gray and worn walls, fixed at a regular slope, and breaking

away into masses more and more rugged towards Vesuvius, till the eye

gets thoroughly habituated to their fortress-like outlines.

[Illustration: Fig. 10. Petrarch's Villa; Arquà.--1837.]

140. Throughout the whole of this broken country, and, on the summits of

these volcanic cones, rise innumerable villas; but they do not offend

us, as we should have expected, by their attestation of cheerfulness of

life amidst the wrecks left by destructive operation, nor hurt the eye

by non-assimilation with the immediate features of the landscape: but

they seem to rise prepared and adapted for resistance to, and endurance

of, the circumstances of their position; to be inhabited by beings of

energy and force sufficient to decree and to carry on a steady struggle

with opposing elements, and of taste and feeling sufficient to

proportion the form of the walls of men to the clefts in the flanks of

the volcano, and to prevent the exultation and the lightness of

transitory life from startling, like a mockery, the eternal remains of

disguised desolation.

141. We have always considered these circumstances as most remarkable

proofs of the perfect dependence of architecture on its situation, and

of the utter impossibility of judging of the beauty of any building in

the abstract: and we would also lay much stress upon them, as showing

with what boldness the designer may introduce into his building,

undisguised, such parts as local circumstances render desirable; for

there will invariably be something in the nature of that which causes

their necessity, which will endow them with beauty.

142. These, then, are the principal features of the Italian villa,

modifications of which, of course more or less dignified in size,

material or decoration, in proportion to the power and possessions of

their proprietor, may be considered as composing every building of that

class in Italy. A few remarks on their general effect will enable us to

conclude the subject.

143. We have been so long accustomed to see the horizontal lines and

simple forms which, as we have observed, still prevail among the

Ausonian villas, used with the greatest dexterity, and the noblest

effect, in the compositions of Claude, Salvator, and Poussin--and so

habituated to consider these compositions as perfect models of the

beautiful, as well as the pure in taste--that it is difficult to divest

ourselves of prejudice, in the contemplation of the sources from which

those masters received their education, their feelings, and their

subjects. We would hope, however, and we think it may be proved, that in

this case principle assists and encourages prejudice. First, referring

only to the gratification afforded to the eye, which we know to depend

upon fixed mathematical principles, though those principles are not

always developed, it is to be observed, that country is always most

beautiful when it is made up of curves, and that one of the chief

characters of Ausonian landscape is the perfection of its curvatures,

induced by the gradual undulation of promontories into the plains. In

suiting architecture to such a country, that building which least

interrupts the curve on which it is placed will be felt to be most

delightful to the eye.

[Illustration: Fig. 11. Broken Curves.]

144. Let us take then the simple form _a b c d_, interrupting the curve

_c e_ [fig. 11, A]. Now, the eye will always continue the principal

lines of such an object for itself, until they cut the main curve; that

is, it will carry on _a b_ to _e_, and the total effect of the

interruption will be that of the form _c d e_. Had the line _b d_ been

nearer to _a c_, the effect would have been just the same. Now, every

curve may be considered as composed of an infinite number of lines at

right angles to each other, as _m n_ is made up of _o p, p q_, etc.,

(fig. B), whose ratio to each other varies with the direction of the

curve. Then, if the right lines which form the curve at _c_ (fig. A) be

increased, we have the figure _c d e_, that is, the apparent

interruption of the curve is an increased part of the curve itself. To

the mathematical reader we can explain our meaning more clearly, by

pointing out that, taking _c_ for our origin, we have _a c_, _a e_, for

the co-ordinates of _e_, and that, therefore, their ratio is the

equation to the curve. Whence it appears, that, when any curve is broken

in upon by a building composed of simple vertical and horizontal lines,

the eye is furnished, by the interruption, with the equation to that

part of the curve which is interrupted. If, instead of square forms, we

take obliquity, as _r s t_ (fig. C), we have one line, _s t_, an

absolute break, and the other _r s_, in false proportion. If we take

another curve, we have an infinite number of lines, only two of which

are where they ought to be. And this is the true reason for the constant

introduction of features which appear to be somewhat formal, into the

most perfect imaginations of the old masters, and the true cause of the

extreme beauty of the groups formed by Italian villages in general.

145. Thus much for the mere effect on the eye. Of correspondence with

national character, we have shown that we must not be disappointed, if

we find little in the villa. The unfrequency of windows in the body of

the building is partly attributed to the climate; but the total

exclusion of light from some parts, as the base of the central tower,

carries our thoughts back to the ancient system of Italian life, when

every man's home had its dark, secret places, the abodes of his worst

passions; whose shadows were alone intrusted with the motion of his

thoughts; whose walls became the whited sepulchers of crime; whose

echoes were never stirred except by such words as they dared not

repeat;[22] from which the rod of power, or the dagger of passion, came

forth invisible; before whose stillness princes grew pale, as their

fates were prophesied or fulfilled by the horoscope or the hemlock; and

nations, as the whisper of anarchy or of heresy was avenged by the

opening of the low doors, through which those who entered returned not.

[Footnote 22: Shelley has caught the feeling finely:--"The house is

penetrated to its corners by the peeping insolence of the day. When the

time comes the crickets shall not see me."--_Cenci_ [Act II. scene I,

quoted from memory.]]

146. The mind of the Italian, sweet and smiling in its operations, deep

and silent in its emotions, was thus, in some degree, typified by those

abodes into which he was wont to retire from the tumult and wrath of

life, to cherish or to gratify the passions which its struggles had

excited; abodes which now gleam brightly and purely among the azure

mountains, and by the sapphire sea, but whose stones are dropped with

blood; whose vaults are black with the memory of guilt and grief

unpunished and unavenged, and by whose walls the traveler hastens

fearfully, when the sun has set, lest he should hear, awakening again

through the horror of their chambers, the faint wail of the children of

Ugolino,[23] the ominous alarm of Bonatti, or the long low cry of her

who perished at Coll' Alto.

OXFORD, _July, 1838._

[Footnote 23: Ugolino; Dante, _Inferno_ xxxiii. Guido Bonatti, the

astrologer of Forli, _Inferno_ xx., 118. The lady who perished at Coll'

Alto, _i.e._ the higher part of Colle de Val d'Elsa, between Siena and

Volterra--was Sapia; _Purgatorio_, xiii. 100-154.]

IV.

THE LOWLAND VILLA--ENGLAND.

147. Although, as we have frequently observed, our chief object in these

papers is, to discover the connection existing between national

architecture and character, and therefore is one leading us rather to

the investigation of what is, than of what ought to be, we yet consider

that the subject would be imperfectly treated, if we did not, at the

conclusion of the consideration of each particular rank of building,

endeavor to apply such principles as may have been demonstrated to the

architecture of our country, and to discover the _beau idéal_ of English

character, which should be preserved through all the decorations which

the builder may desire, and through every variety which fancy may

suggest. There never was, and never can be, a universal _beau idéal_ in

architecture, and the arrival at all local models of beauty would be the

task of ages; but we can always, in some degree, determine those of our

own lovely country. We cannot, however, in the present case, pass from

the contemplation of the villa of a totally different climate, to the

investigation of what is beautiful here, without the slightest reference

to styles now or formerly adopted for our own "villas," if such they are

to be called; and therefore it will be necessary to devote a short time

to the observance of the peculiarities of such styles, if we possess

them; or, if not, of the causes of their absence.

148. We have therefore headed this paper "The Villa, England;"

awakening, without doubt, a different idea in the mind of every one who

reads the words. Some, accustomed to the appearance of metropolitan

villas, will think of brick buildings, with infinite appurtenances of

black nicked chimney-pots, and plastered fronts, agreeably varied with

graceful cracks, and undulatory shades of pink, brown, and green,

communicated to the cement by smoky showers. Others will imagine large,

square, many-windowed masses of white, set with careful choice of

situation exactly where they will spoil the landscape to such a

conspicuous degree, as to compel the gentlemen traveling on the outside

of the mail to inquire of the guard, with great eagerness, "whose place

that is;" and to enable the guard to reply with great distinctness, that

it belongs to Squire ----, to the infinite gratification of Squire ----,

and the still more infinite edification of the gentlemen on the outside

of the mail. Others will remember masses of very red brick, quoined with

stone; with columnar porticoes, about one-third of the height of the

building, and two niches, with remarkable looking heads and bag-wigs in

them, on each side; and two teapots, with a pocket-handkerchief hanging

over each (described to the astonished spectator as "Grecian urns")

located upon the roof, just under the chimneys. Others will go back to

the range of Elizabethan gables; but none will have any idea of a fixed

character, stamped on a class of national edifices. This is very

melancholy, and very discouraging; the more so, as it is not without

cause.

149. In the first place, Britain unites in itself so many geological

formations, each giving a peculiar character to the country which it

composes, that there is hardly a district five miles broad, which

preserves the same features of landscape through its whole width.[24]

If, for example, six foreigners were to land severally at Glasgow, at

Aberystwith, at Falmouth, at Brighton, at Yarmouth, and at Newcastle,

and to confine their investigations to the country within twenty miles

of them, what different impressions would they receive of British

landscape! If, therefore, there be as many forms of edifice as there

are peculiarities of situation, we can have no national style; and if we

abandon the idea of a correspondence with situation, we lose the only

criterion capable of forming a national style.[25]

[Footnote 24: Length is another thing: we might divide England into

strips of country, running southwest and northeast, which would be

composed of the same rock, and therefore would present the same

character throughout the whole of their length. Almost all our great

roads cut these transversely, and therefore seldom remain for ten miles

together on the same beds.]

[Footnote 25: It is thus that we find the most perfect schools of

architecture have arisen in districts whose character is unchanging.

Looking to Egypt first, we find a climate inducing a perpetual state of

heavy feverish excitement, fostered by great magnificence of natural

phenomena, and increased by the general custom of exposing the head

continually to the sun (Herodotus, bk. III. chap. 12); so that, as in a

dreaming fever we imagine distorted creatures and countenances moving

and living in the quiet objects of the chamber, the Egyptian endowed all

existence with distorted animation; turned dogs into deities, and leeks

into lightning-darters; then gradually invested the blank granite with

sculptured mystery, designed in superstition, and adored in disease; and

then such masses of architecture arose as, in delirium, we feel crushing

down upon us with eternal weight, and see extending far into the

blackness above; huge and shapeless columns of colossal life; immense

and immeasurable avenues of mountain stone. This was a perfect--that is,

a marked, enduring, and decided school of architecture, induced by an

unchanging and peculiar character of climate. Then in the purer air, and

among the more refined energies of Greece, architecture rose into a more

studied beauty, equally perfect in its school, because fostered in a

district not 50 miles square, and in its dependent isles and colonies,

all of which were under the same air, and partook of the same features

of landscape. In Rome, it became less perfect, because more imitative

than indigenous, and corrupted by the traveling, and conquering, and

stealing ambition of the Roman; yet still a school of architecture,

because the whole of Italy presented the same peculiarities of scene. So

with the Spanish and Moresco schools, and many others; passing over the

Gothic, which, though we hope hereafter to show it to be no exception to

the rule, involves too many complicated questions to be now brought

forward as a proof of it.

[The comparison of Egyptian architecture with delirious visions seems to

be an allusion to De Quincey's passage in "The Pains of Opium"--the last

paper in "the Confessions of an Opium-Eater"--where, after describing

Piranesi's _Dreams_, he tells how he fancied he was "buried for a

thousand years, in stone coffins, with mummies and sphinxes, in narrow

chambers at the heart of eternal pyramids," etc.]]

150. Another cause to be noticed is the peculiar independence of the

Englishman's disposition; a feeling which prompts him to suit his own

humor, rather than fall in with the prevailing cast of social sentiment,

or of natural beauty and expression; and which, therefore,--there being

much obstinate originality in his mind,--produces strange varieties of

dwelling, frequently rendered still more preposterous by his love of

display; a love universally felt in England, and often absurdly

indulged. Wealth is worshiped in France as the means of purchasing

pleasure; in Italy, as an instrument of power; in England, as the means

"of showing off." It would be a very great sacrifice indeed, in an

Englishman of the average stamp, to put his villa out of the way, where

nobody would ever see it, or think of _him_; it is his ambition to hear

every one exclaiming, "What a pretty place! whose can it be?" And he

cares very little about the peace which he has disturbed, or the repose

which he has interrupted; though, even while he thus pushes himself into

the way, he keeps an air of sulky retirement, of hedgehog independence,

about his house, which takes away any idea of sociability or good-humor,

which might otherwise have been suggested by his choice of situation.

151. But, in spite of all these unfortunate circumstances, there are

some distinctive features in our English country houses, which are well

worth a little attention. First, in the approach, we have one component

part of effect, which may be called peculiarly our own, and which

requires much study before it can be managed well,--the avenue. It is

true that we meet with noble lines of timber trees cresting some of the

larger bastions of Continental fortified cities; we see interminable

regiments of mistletoed apple trees flanking the carriage road; and

occasionally we approach a turreted château[26] by a broad way, "edged

with poplar pale." But, allowing all this, the legitimate glory of the

perfect avenue is ours still, as will appear by a little consideration

of the elements which constitute its beauty.

[Footnote 26: Or a city. Any one who remembers entering Carlsruhe from

the north by the two miles of poplar avenue, remembers entering the most

soulless of all cities, by the most lifeless of all entrances.]

152. The original idea was given by the opening of the tangled glades in

our most ancient forests. It is rather a curious circumstance that, in

those woods whose decay has been most instrumental in forming the bog

districts of Ireland, the trees have, in general, been planted in

symmetrical rows, at distances of about twenty feet apart. If the

arrangement of our later woods be not quite so formal, they at least

present frequent openings, carpeted with green sward, and edged with

various foliage, which the architect (for so may the designer of the

avenue be entitled) should do little more than reduce to symmetry and

place in position, preserving, as much as possible, the manner and the

proportions of nature. The avenue, therefore, must not be too long. It

is quite a mistake to suppose that there is sublimity in a monotonous

length of line, unless indeed it be carried to an extent generally

impossible, as in the case of the long walk at Windsor. From three to

four hundred yards is a length which will display the elevation well,

and will not become tiresome from continued monotony. The kind of tree

must, of course, be regulated by circumstances; but the foliage must be

unequally disposed, so as to let in passages of light across the path,

and cause the motion of any object across it to change, like an

undulating melody, from darkness to light. It should meet at the top, so

as to cause twilight, but not obscurity; and the idea of a vaulted roof,

without rigidity. The ground should be green, so that the sunlight may

tell with force wherever it strikes. Now, this kind of rich and shadowy

vista is found in its perfection only in England: it is an attribute of

green country; it is associated with all our memories of forest freedom,

of our wood-rangers, and yeomen with the "doublets of the Lincoln

green;" with our pride of ancient archers, whose art was fostered in

such long and breezeless glades; with our thoughts of the merry chases

of our kingly companies, when the dewy antlers sparkled down the

intertwined paths of the windless woods, at the morning echo of the

hunter's horn; with all, in fact, that once contributed to give our land

its ancient name of "merry" England; a name which, in this age of steam

and iron, it will have some difficulty in keeping.

153. This, then, is the first feature we would direct attention to, as

characteristic, in the English villa: and be it remembered, that we are

not speaking of the immense lines of foliage which guide the eye to some

of our English palaces, for those are rather the adjuncts of the park

than the approach to the building; but of the more laconic avenue, with

the two crested columns and the iron gate at its entrance, leading the

eye, in the space of a hundred yards or so, to the gables of its gray

mansion. A good instance of this approach may be found at Petersham, by

following the right side of the Thames for about half a mile from

Richmond Hill; though the house, which, in this case, is approached by a

noble avenue, is much to be reprehended, as a bad mixture of imitation

of the Italian with corrupt Elizabethan; though it is somewhat

instructive, as showing the ridiculous effect of statues out of doors in

a climate like ours.

154. And now that we have pointed out the kind of approach most

peculiarly English, that approach will guide us to the only style of

villa architecture which can be called English,--the Elizabethan, and

its varieties,--a style fantastic in its details, and capable of being

subjected to no rule, but, as we think, well adapted for the scenery in

which it arose. We allude not only to the pure Elizabethan, but even to

the strange mixtures of classical ornaments with Gothic forms, which we

find prevailing in the sixteenth century. In the most simple form, we

have a building extending round three sides of a court, and, in the

larger halls, round several interior courts, terminating in sharply

gabled fronts, with broad oriels, divided into very narrow lights by

channeled mullions, without decoration of any kind; the roof relieved by

projecting dormer windows, whose lights are generally divided into

three, terminating in very flat arches without cusps, the intermediate

edge of the roof being battlemented. Then we find wreaths of ornament

introduced at the base of the oriels;[27] ranges of short columns, the

base of one upon the capital of another, running up beside them; the

bases being very tall, sometimes decorated with knots of flower-work;

the columns usually fluted,--wreathed, in richer examples, with

ornament. The entrance is frequently formed by double ranges of those

short columns, with intermediate arches, with shell canopies, and rich

crests above.[28] This portico is carried up to some height above the

roof, which is charged with an infinite variety of decorated chimneys.

[Footnote 27: As in a beautiful example in Brasenose College, Oxford.]

[Footnote 28: The portico of the [old] Schools and the inner courts of

Merton and St. John's Colleges, Oxford; an old house at Charlton, Kent;

and Burleigh House, will probably occur to the mind of the architect, as

good examples of the varieties of this mixed style.]

155. Now, all this is utterly barbarous as architecture; but, with the

exception of the chimneys, it is not false in taste; for it was

originally intended for retired and quiet habitations in our forest

country, not for conspicuous palaces in the streets of the city; and we

have shown, in speaking of green country, that the eye is gratified[29]

with fantastic details; that it is prepared, by the mingled lights of

the natural scenery, for rich and entangled ornament, and would not only

endure, but demand, irregularity of system in the architecture of man,

to correspond with the infinite variety of form in the wood architecture

of nature. Few surprises can be imagined more delightful than the

breaking out of one of these rich gables, with its decorated entrance,

among the dark trunks and twinkling leaves of forest scenery. Such an

effect is rudely given in fig. 12. We would direct the attention chiefly

to the following points in the building:--

[Footnote 29: [_i.e._ when the spectator is surrounded by woodland

scenery. _Vide ante_, § 88.]]

156. First, it is a humorist, an odd, twisted, independent being, with a

great deal of mixed, obstinate, and occasionally absurd originality. It

has one or two graceful lines about it, and several harsh and cutting

ones; it is a whole, which would allow of no unison with any other

architecture; it is gathered in itself, and would look very ugly indeed,

if pieces in a purer style of building were added. All this corresponds

with points of English character, with its humors, its independency, and

its horror of being put out of its own way.

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