108. The frequent occurrence of the arch is always delightful in distant

effect, partly on account of its graceful line, partly because the shade

it casts is varied in depth, becoming deeper and deeper as the grotto

retires, and partly because it gives great apparent elevation to the

walls which it supports. The grottoes themselves are agreeable objects

seen near, because they give an impression of coolness to the eye; and

they echo all sounds with great melody; small streams are often

conducted through them, occasioning slight breezes by their motion. Then

the statue and the urn are graceful in their outline, classical in their

meaning, and correct in their position, for where could they be more

appropriate than here; the one ministering to memory, and the other to

mourning. The terraces themselves are dignified in their character (a

necessary effect, as we saw above), and even the formal rows of trees

are right in this climate, for a peculiar reason. Effect is always to be

considered, in Italy, as if the sun were always to shine, for it does

nine days out of ten. Now the shadows of foliage regularly disposed,

fall with a grace which it is impossible to describe, running up and

down across the marble steps, and casting alternate statues into

darkness; and checkering the white walls with a "method in their

madness," altogether unattainable by loose grouping of trees; and

therefore, for the sake of this kind of shade, to which the eye, as well

as the feeling, is attracted, the long row of cypresses or orange trees

is allowable.

109. But there is a still more important reason for it, of a directly

contrary nature to that which its formality would seem to require. In

all beautiful designs of exterior descent, a certain regularity is

necessary; the lines should be graceful, but they must balance each

other, slope answering to slope, statue to statue. Now this mathematical

regularity would hurt the eye excessively in the midst of scenes of

natural grace, were it executed in bare stone; but, if we make part of

the design itself foliage, and put in touches of regular shade,

alternating with the stone, whose distances and darkness are as

mathematically limited as the rest of the grouping, but whose nature is

changeful and varied in individual forms, we have obtained a link

between nature and art, a step of transition, leading the feelings

gradually from the beauty of regularity to that of freedom. And this

effect would not be obtained, as might at first appear, by intermingling

trees of different kinds, at irregular distances, or wherever they chose

to grow; for then the design and the foliage would be instantly

separated by the eye, the symmetry of the one would be interrupted, the

grace of the other lost; the nobility of the design would not be seen,

but its formality would be felt; and the wildness of the trees would be

injurious, because it would be felt to be out of place. On principles of

composition, therefore, the regular disposition of decorative foliage is

right, when such foliage is mixed with architecture; but it requires

great taste, and long study, to design this disposition properly. Trees

of dark leaf and little color should be invariably used, for they are to

be considered, it must be remembered, rather as free touches of shade

than as trees.

110. Take, for instance, the most simple bit of design, such as a hollow

balustrade, and suppose that it is found to look cold or raw, when

executed, and to want depth. Then put small pots, with any dark shrub,

the darker the better, at fixed places behind them, at the same distance

as the balustrades, or between every two or three, and keep them cut

down to a certain height, and we have immediate depth and increased

ease, with undiminished symmetry. But the great difficulty is to keep

the thing within proper limits, since too much of it will lead to

paltriness, as is the case in a slight degree in Isola Bella, on Lago

Maggiore; and not to let it run into small details: for, be it

remembered, that it is only in the majesty of art, in its large and

general effects, that this regularity is allowable; nothing but variety

should be studied in detail, and therefore there can be no barbarism

greater than the lozenge borders and beds of the French garden. The

scenery around must be naturally rich, that its variety of line may

relieve the slight stiffness of the architecture itself: and the climate

must always be considered; for, as we saw, the chief beauty of these

flights of steps depends upon the presence of the sun; and, if they are

to be in shade half the year, the dark trees will only make them gloomy,

the grass will grow between the stones of the steps, black weeds will

flicker from the pedestals, damp mosses discolor the statues and urns,

and the whole will become one incongruous ruin, one ridiculous decay.

Besides, the very dignity of its character, even could it be kept in

proper order, would be out of place in any country but Italy. Busts of

Virgil or Ariosto would look astonished in an English snowstorm; statues

of Apollo and Diana would be no more divine, where the laurels of the

one would be weak, and the crescent of the other would never gleam in

pure moonlight. The whole glory of the design consists in its unison

with the dignity of the landscape, and with the classical tone of the

country. Take it away from its concomitant circumstances, and, instead

of conducting the eye to it by a series of lofty and dreamy impressions,

bring it through green lanes, or over copse-covered crags, as would be

the case in England, and the whole system becomes utterly and absolutely

absurd, ugly in outline, worse than useless in application, unmeaning in

design, and incongruous in association.

111. It seems, then, that in the approach to the Italian villa, we have

discovered great nationality and great beauty, which was more than we

could have expected, but a beauty utterly untransferable from its own

settled habitation. In our next paper we shall proceed to the building

itself, which will not detain us long, as it is generally simple in its

design, and take a general view of villa architecture over Italy.

112. We have bestowed considerable attention on this style of Garden

Architecture, because it has been much abused by persons of high

authority, and general good taste, who forgot, in their love of grace

and ideal beauty, the connection with surrounding circumstances so

manifest even in its formality. Eustace, we think, is one of these; and,

although it is an error of a kind he is perpetually committing, he is so

far right, that this mannerism is frequently carried into excess even in

its own peculiar domain, then becoming disagreeable, and is always a

dangerous style in inexperienced hands. We think, however, paradoxical

as the opinion may appear, that every one who is a true lover of nature,

and has been bred in her wild school, will be an admirer of this

symmetrical designing, in its place; and will feel, as often as he

contemplates it, that the united effect of the wide and noble steps,

with the pure water dashing over them like heated crystal, the long

shadows of the cypress groves, the golden leaves and glorious light of

blossom of the glancing aloes, the pale statues gleaming along the

heights in their everlasting death in life, their motionless brows

looking down forever on the loveliness in which their beings once dwelt,

marble forms of more than mortal grace lightening along the green

arcades, amidst dark cool grottoes, full of the voice of dashing waters,

and of the breath of myrtle blossoms, with the blue of the deep lake and

the distant precipice mingling at every opening with the eternal snows

glowing in their noontide silence, is one not unworthy of Italy's most

noble remembrances.

II.

THE MOUNTAIN VILLA--LAGO DI COMO (Continued).

113. Having considered the propriety of the approach, it remains for us

to investigate the nature of the feelings excited by the villas of the

Lago di Como in particular, and of Italy in general.

We mentioned that the bases of the mountains bordering the Lake of Como

were chiefly composed of black marble; black, at least, when polished,

and very dark gray in its general effect. This is very finely stratified

in beds varying in thickness from an inch to two or three feet; and

these beds, taken of a medium thickness, form flat slabs, easily broken

into rectangular fragments, which, being excessively compact in their

grain, are admirably adapted for a building material. There is a little

pale limestone[17] among the hills to the south; but this marble, or

primitive limestone (for it is not highly crystalline), is not only more

easy of access, but a more durable stone. Of this, consequently, almost

all the buildings on the lake shore are built; and, therefore, were

their material unconcealed, would be of a dark monotonous and melancholy

gray tint, equally uninteresting to the eye, and depressing to the mind.

To prevent this result, they are covered with different compositions,

sometimes white, more frequently cream-colored, and of varying depth;

the moldings and pilasters being frequently of deeper tones than the

walls. The insides of the grottoes, however, when not cut in the rock

itself, are left uncovered, thus forming a strong contrast with the

whiteness outside; giving great depth, and permitting weeds and flowers

to root themselves on the roughnesses, and rock streams to distill

through the fissures of the dark stones; while all parts of the building

to which the eye is drawn, by their form or details (except the capitals

of the pilasters), such as the urns, the statues, the steps, or

balustrades, are executed in very fine white marble, generally from the

quarries of Carrara, which supply quantities of fragments of the finest

quality, which nevertheless, owing to their want of size, or to the

presence of conspicuous veins, are unavailable for the higher purposes

of sculpture.

[Footnote 17: Pale limestone, with dolomite. A coarse dolomite forms the

mass of mountains on the east of Lake Lecco, Monte Campione, etc., and

part of the other side, as well as the Monte del Novo, above Cadenabbia;

but the bases of the hills, along the _shore_ of the Lake of Lecco, and

all the mountains on both sides of the lower limb of Como are black

limestone. The whole northern half of the lake is bordered by gneiss or

mica slate, with tertiary deposit where torrents enter it. So that the

dolomite is only obtainable by ascending the hills, and incurring

considerable expense of carriage; while the rocks of the shore split

into blocks of their own accord, and are otherwise an excellent

material.]

114. Now, the first question is, is this very pale color desirable? It

is to be hoped so, or else the whole of Italy must be pronounced full of

impropriety. The first circumstance in its favor is one which, though

connected only with lake scenery, we shall notice at length, as it is a

point of high importance in our own country. When a small piece of quiet

water reposes in a valley, or lies embosomed among crags, its chief

beauty is derived from our perception of crystalline depth, united with

excessive slumber. In its limited surface we cannot get the sublimity of

extent, but we may have the beauty of peace, and the majesty of depth.

The object must therefore be, to get the eye off its surface, and to

draw it down, to beguile it into that fairy land underneath, which is

more beautiful than what it repeats, because it is all full of dreams

unattainable, and illimitable. This can only be done by keeping its edge

out of sight, and guiding the eye off the land into the reflection, as

if it were passing into a mist, until it finds itself swimming into the

blue sky, with a thrill of unfathomable falling. (If there be not a

touch of sky at the bottom, the water will be disagreeably black, and

the clearer the more fearful.) Now, one touch of _white_ reflection of

an object at the edge will destroy the whole illusion, for it will come

like the flash of light on armor, and will show the surface, not the

depth: it will tell the eye whereabouts it is; will define the limit of

the edge; and will turn the dream of limitless depth into a small,

uninteresting, reposeless piece of water. In all small lakes or pools,

therefore, steep borders of dark crag, or of thick foliage, are to be

obtained, if possible; even a shingly shore will spoil them: and this

was one reason, it will be remembered for our admiration of the color of

the Westmoreland cottage, because it never broke the repose of water by

its reflection.

115. But this principle applies only to small pieces of water, on which

we look down, as much as along the surface. As soon as we get a sheet,

even if only a mile across, we lose depth; first, because it is almost

impossible to get the surface without a breeze on some part of it; and,

again, because we look along it, and get a great deal of sky in the

reflection, which, when occupying too much space, tells as mere flat

light. But we may have the beauty of extent in a very high degree; and

it is therefore desirable to know how far the water goes, that we may

have a clear conception of its space. Now, its border, at a great

distance, is always lost, unless it be defined by a very distinct line;

and such a line is harsh, flat, and cutting on the eye. To avoid this,

the border itself should be dark, as in the other case, so that there

may be no continuous horizontal line of demarcation; but one or two

bright white objects should be set here and there along or near the

edge: their reflections will flash on the dark water, and will inform

the eye in a moment of the whole distance and transparency of the

surface it is traversing. When there is a slight swell on the water,

they will come down in long, beautiful, perpendicular lines, mingling

exquisitely with the streaky green of reflected foliage; when there is

none, they become a distant image of the object they repeat, endowed

with infinite repose.

116. These remarks, true of small lakes whose edges are green, apply

with far greater force to sheets of water on which the eye passes over

ten or twenty miles in one long glance, and the prevailing color of

whose borders is, as we noticed when speaking of the Italian cottage,

blue. The white reflections are here excessively valuable, giving space,

brilliancy, and transparency; and furnish one very powerful apology,

even did other objections render an apology necessary, for the pale tone

of the color of the villas, whose reflections, owing to their size and

conspicuous situations, always take a considerable part in the scene,

and are therefore things to be attentively considered in the erection of

such buildings, particularly in a climate whose calmness renders its

lakes quiet for the greater part of the day. Nothing, in fact, can be

more beautiful than the intermingling of these bright lines with the

darkness of the reversed cypresses seen against the deep azure of the

distant hills in the crystalline waters of the lake, of which some one

aptly says, "Deep within its azure rest, white villages sleep

silently;"[18] or than their columnar perspective, as village after

village catches the light, and strikes the image to the very quietest

recess of the narrow water, and the very farthest hollow of the folded

hills.

[Footnote 18: [A reminiscence of two lines from a poem on the "Lago di

Como" written by the author in 1833.]]

117. From all this, it appears that the effect of the white villa in

water is delightful. On land it is quite as important, but more

doubtful. The first objection, which strikes us instantly when we

_imagine_ such a building, is the want of repose, the startling glare of

effect, induced by its unsubdued tint. But this objection does not

strike us when we _see_ the building; a circumstance which was partly

accounted for before, in speaking of the cottage, and which we shall

presently see farther cause not to be surprised at. A more important

objection is, that such whiteness destroys a great deal of venerable

character, and harmonizes ill with the melancholy tones of surrounding

landscape: and this requires detailed consideration.

118. Paleness of color destroys the majesty of a building; first, by

hinting at a disguised and humble material; and, secondly, by taking

away all appearance of age. We shall speak of the effect of the material

presently; but the deprivation of apparent antiquity is dependent in a

great degree on the color; and in Italy, where, as we saw before,

everything ought to point to the past, is serious injury, though, for

several reasons, not so fatal as might be imagined; for we do not

require, in a building raised as a light summer-house, wherein to while

away a few pleasure hours, the evidence of ancestral dignity, without

which the château or palace can possess hardly any beauty. We know that

it is originally built more as a plaything than as a monument; as the

delight of an individual, not the possession of a race; and that the

very lightness and carelessness of feeling with which such a domicile is

entered and inhabited by its first builder would demand, to sympathize

and keep in unison with them, not the kind of building adapted to excite

the veneration of ages, but that which can most gayly minister to the

amusement of hours. For all men desire to have memorials of their

actions, but none of their recreations; inasmuch as we only wish that to

be remembered which others will not, or cannot perform or experience;

and we know that all men can enjoy recreation as much as ourselves. We

wish succeeding generations to admire our energy, but not even to be

aware of our lassitude; to know when we moved, but not when we rested;

how we ruled, not how we condescended; and, therefore, in the case of

the triumphal arch, or the hereditary palace, if we are the builders, we

desire stability; if the beholders, we are offended with novelty: but in

the case of the villa, the builder desires only a correspondence with

his humor; the beholder, evidence of such correspondence; for he feels

that the villa is most beautiful when it ministers most to pleasure;

that it cannot minister to pleasure without perpetual change, so as to

suit the varying ideas, and humors, and imaginations of its inhabitant,

and that it cannot possess this light and variable habit with any

appearance of antiquity.

119. And, for a yet more important reason, such appearance is not

desirable. Melancholy, when it is productive of pleasure, is accompanied

either by loveliness in the object exciting it, or by a feeling of pride

in the mind experiencing it. Without one of these, it becomes absolute

pain, which all men throw off as soon as they can, and suffer under as

long as their minds are too weak for the effort. Now, when it is

accompanied by loveliness in the object exciting it, it forms beauty;

when by a feeling of pride, it constitutes the pleasure we experience in

tragedy, when we have the pride of endurance, or in contemplating the

ruin, or the monument, by which we are informed or reminded of the pride

of the past. Hence, it appears that age is beautiful only when it is the

decay of glory or of power, and memory only delightful when it reposes

upon pride.[19] All remains therefore of what was merely devoted to

pleasure; all evidence of lost enjoyment; all memorials of the

recreation and rest of the departed; in a word, all desolation of

delight is productive of mere pain, for there is no feeling of

exultation connected with it. Thus, in any ancient habitation, we pass

with reverence and pleasurable emotion through the ordered armory, where

the lances lie, with none to wield; through the lofty hall, where the

crested scutcheons glow with the honor of the dead: but we turn sickly

away from the arbor which has no hand to tend it, and the boudoir which

has no life to lighten it, and the smooth sward which has no light feet

to dance on it. So it is in the villa: the more memory, the more sorrow;

and, therefore, the less adaptation to its present purpose. But, though

cheerful, it should be ethereal in its expression: "spiritual" is a good

word, giving ideas of the very highest order of delight that can be

obtained in the mere present.

[Footnote 19: Observe, we are not speaking of emotions felt on

remembering what we ourselves have enjoyed, for then the imagination is

productive of pleasure by replacing us in enjoyment, but of the feelings

excited in the _indifferent_ spectator, by the evident decay of power or

desolation of enjoyment, of which the first ennobles, the other only

harrows, the spirit.]

120. It seems, then, that for all these reasons an appearance of age is

not desirable, far less necessary, in the villa; but its existing

character must be in unison with its country; and it must appear to be

inhabited by one brought up in that country, and imbued with its

national feelings. In Italy, especially, though we can even here

dispense with one component part of elevation of character,--age, we

must have all the others: we must have high feeling, beauty of form, and

depth of effect, or the thing will be a barbarism; the inhabitant must

be an Italian, full of imagination and emotion: a villa inhabited by an

Englishman, no matter how close its imitation of others, will always be

preposterous.

We find, therefore, that white is not to be blamed in the villa for

destroying its antiquity; neither is it reprehensible, as harmonizing

ill with the surrounding landscape: on the contrary, it adds to its

brilliancy, without taking away from its depth of tone. We shall

consider it as an element of landscape, more particularly, when we come

to speak of grouping.

121. There remains only one accusation to be answered; viz., that it

hints at a paltry and unsubstantial material: and this leads us to the

second question. Is this material allowable? If it were distinctly felt

by the eye to be stucco, there could be no question about the matter, it

would be decidedly disagreeable; but all the parts to which the eye is

attracted are executed in marble, and the stucco merely forms the dead

flat of the building, not a single wreath of ornament being formed of

it. Its surface is smooth and bright, and altogether avoids what a stone

building, when not built of large masses, and uncharged with ornament,

always forces upon the attention, the rectangular lines of the blocks,

which, however nicely fitted they may be, are "horrible! most horrible!"

There is also a great deal of ease and softness in the angular lines of

the stucco, which are never sharp or harsh, like those of stone; and it

receives shadows with great beauty, a point of infinite importance in

this climate; giving them lightness and transparency, without any

diminution of depth. It is also agreeable to the eye, to pass from the

sharp carving of the marble decorations to the ease and smoothness of

the stucco; while the utter want of interest in those parts which are

executed in it prevents the humility of the material from being

offensive: for this passage of the eye from the marble to the

composition is managed with the dexterity of the artist, who, that the

attention may be drawn to the single point of the picture which is his

subject, leaves the rest so obscured and slightly painted, that the mind

loses it altogether in its attention to the principal feature.

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