1836. While the resident partners of the consolidated company waited at
the rendezvous for the arrival of the supply trains from St. Louis, word
came by a messenger sent forward, that the American Company under
Fitzpatrick, had reached Independence Rock, and was pressing forward.
The messenger also brought the intelligence that two other parties were
traveling in company with the fur company; that of Captain Stuart, who
had been to New Orleans to winter, and that of Doctor Whitman, one of
the missionaries who had visited the mountains the year previous. In
this latter party, it was asserted, there were two white ladies.
This exhilarating news immediately inspired some of the trappers,
foremost among whom was Meek, with a desire to be the first to meet and
greet the on-coming caravan; and especially to salute the two white
women who were bold enough to invade a mountain camp. In a very short
time Meek, with half-a-dozen comrades, and ten or a dozen Nez Perces,
were mounted and away, on their self-imposed errand of welcome; the
trappers because they were "spoiling" for a fresh excitement; and the
Nez Perces because the missionaries were bringing them information
concerning the powerful and beneficent Deity of the white men. These
latter also were charged with a letter to Doctor Whitman from his former
associate, Mr. Parker.
On the Sweetwater about two days' travel from camp the caravan of the
advancing company was discovered, and the trappers prepared to give them
a characteristic greeting. To prevent mistakes in recognizing them, a
white flag was hoisted on one of their guns, and the word was given to
start. Then over the brow of a hill they made their appearance, riding
with that mad speed only an Indian or a trapper can ride, yelling,
whooping, dashing forward with frantic and threatening gestures; their
dress, noises, and motions, all so completely savage that the white men
could not have been distinguished from the red.
The first effect of their onset was what they probably intended. The
uninitiated travelers, including the missionaries, believing they were
about to be attacked by Indians, prepared for defence, nor could be
persuaded that the preparation was unnecessary until the guide pointed
out to them the white flag in advance. At the assurance that the flag
betokened friends, apprehension was changed to curiosity and intense
interest. Every movement of the wild brigade became fascinating. On they
came, riding faster and faster, yelling louder and louder, and
gesticulating more and more madly, until, as they met and passed the
caravan, they discharged their guns in one volley over the heads of the
company, as a last finishing _feu de joie_; and suddenly wheeling rode
back to the front as wildly as they had come. Nor could this first brief
display content the crazy cavalcade. After reaching the front, they rode
back and forth, and around and around the caravan, which had returned
their salute, showing off their feats of horsemanship, and the knowing
tricks of their horses together; hardly stopping to exchange questions
and answers, but seeming really intoxicated with delight at the meeting.
What strange emotions filled the breasts of the lady missionaries, when
they beheld among whom their lot was cast, may now be faintly outlined
by a vivid imagination, but have never been, perhaps never could be put
into words.
The caravan on leaving the settlements had consisted of nineteen laden
carts, each drawn by two mules driven tandem, and one light wagon,
belonging to the American Company; two wagons with two mules to each,
belonging to Capt. Stuart; and one light two-horse wagon, and one
four-horse freight wagon, belonging to the missionaries. However, all
the wagons had been left behind at Fort Laramie, except those of the
missionaries, and one of Capt. Stuart's; so that the three that remained
in the train when it reached the Sweetwater were alone in the enjoyment
of the Nez Perces' curiosity concerning them; a curiosity which they
divided between them and the domesticated cows and calves belonging to
the missionaries: another proof, as they considered it, of the superior
power of the white man's God, who could give to the whites the ability
to tame wild animals to their uses.
But it was towards the two missionary ladies, Mrs. Whitman and Mrs.
Spalding, that the chief interest was directed; an interest that was
founded in the Indian mind upon wonder, admiration, and awe; and in the
minds of the trappers upon the powerful recollections awakened by seeing
in their midst two refined Christian women, with the complexion and
dress of their own mothers and sisters. United to this startling effect
of memory, was respect for the religious devotion which had inspired
them to undertake the long and dangerous journey to the Rocky Mountains,
and also a sentiment of pity for what they knew only too well yet
remained to be encountered by those delicate women in the prosecution of
their duty.
Mrs. Whitman, who was in fine health, rode the greater part of the
journey on horseback. She was a large, stately, fair-skinned woman,
with blue eyes and light auburn, almost golden hair. Her manners were at
once dignified and gracious. She was, both by nature and education a
lady; and had a lady's appreciation of all that was courteous and
refined; yet not without an element of romance and heroism in her
disposition strong enough to have impelled her to undertake a
missionary's life in the wilderness.
Mrs. Spalding was a different type of woman. Talented, and refined in
her nature, she was less pleasing in exterior, and less attached to that
which was superficially pleasing in others. But an indifference to
outside appearances was in her case only a sign of her absorption in the
work she had taken in hand. She possessed the true missionary spirit,
and the talent to make it useful in an eminent degree; never thinking of
herself, or the impression she made upon others; yet withal very firm
and capable of command. Her health, which was always rather delicate,
had suffered much from the fatigue of the journey, and the constant diet
of fresh meat, and meat only, so that she was compelled at last to
abandon horseback exercise, and to keep almost entirely to the light
wagon of the missionaries.
As might be expected, the trappers turned from the contemplation of the
pale, dark-haired occupant of the wagon, with all her humility and
gentleness, to observe and admire the more striking figure, and more
affably attractive manners of Mrs. Whitman. Meek, who never lost an
opportunity to see and be seen, was seen riding alongside Mrs. Whitman,
answering her curious inquiries, and entertaining her with stories of
Blackfeet battles, and encounters with grizzly bears. Poor lady! could
she have looked into the future about which she was then so curious, she
would have turned back appalled, and have fled with frantic fear to the
home of her grieving parents. How could she then behold in the gay and
boastful mountaineer, whose peculiarities of dress and speech so much
diverted her, the very messenger who was to bear to the home of her
girlhood the sickening tale of her bloody sacrifice to savage
superstition and revenge? Yet so had fate decreed it.
When the trappers and Nez Perces had slaked their thirst for excitement
by a few hours' travel in company with the Fur Company's and
Missionary's caravan, they gave at length a parting display of
horsemanship, and dashed off on the return trail to carry to camp the
earliest news. It was on their arrival in camp that the Nez Perce and
Flathead village, which had its encampment at the rendezvous ground on
Green River, began to make preparations for the reception of the
missionaries. It was then that Indian finery was in requisition! Then
the Indian women combed and braided their long black hair, tying the
plaits with gay-colored ribbons, and the Indian braves tied anew their
streaming scalp-locks, sticking them full of flaunting eagle's plumes,
and not despising a bit of ribbon either. Paint was in demand both for
the rider and his horse. Gay blankets, red and blue, buckskin fringed
shirts, worked with beads and porcupine quills, and handsomely
embroidered moccasins, were eagerly sought after. Guns were cleaned and
burnished, and drums and fifes put in tune.
After a day of toilsome preparation all was ready for the grand
reception in the camp of the Nez Perces. Word was at length given that
the caravan was in sight. There was a rush for horses, and in a few
moments the Indians were mounted and in line, ready to charge on the
advancing caravan. When the command of the chiefs was given to start, a
simultaneous chorus of yells and whoops burst forth, accompanied by the
deafening din of the war-drum, the discharge of fire-arms, and the
clatter of the whole cavalcade, which was at once in a mad gallop toward
the on-coming train. Nor did the yelling, whooping, drumming, and firing
cease until within a few yards of the train.
All this demoniac hub-bub was highly complimentary toward those for whom
it was intended; but an unfortunate ignorance of Indian customs caused
the missionaries to fail in appreciating the honor intended them.
Instead of trying to reciprocate the noise by an attempt at imitating
it, the missionary camp was alarmed at the first burst and at once began
to drive in their cattle and prepare for an attack. As the missionary
party was in the rear of the train they succeeded in getting together
their loose stock before the Nez Perces had an opportunity of making
themselves known, so that the leaders of the Fur Company, and Captain
Stuart, had the pleasure of a hearty laugh at their expense, for the
fright they had received.
A general shaking of hands followed the abatement of the first surprise,
the Indian women saluting Mrs. Whitman and Mrs. Spalding with a kiss,
and the missionaries were escorted to their camping ground near the Nez
Perce encampment. Here the whole village again formed in line, and a
more formal introduction of the missionaries took place, after which
they were permitted to go into camp.
When the intention of the Indians became known, Dr. Whitman, who was the
leader of the missionary party, was boyishly delighted with the
reception which had been given him. His frank, hearty, hopeful nature
augured much good from the enthusiasm of the Indians. If his estimation
of the native virtues of the savages was much too high, he suffered with
those whom he caused to suffer for his belief, in the years which
followed. Peace to the ashes of a good man! And honor to his associates,
whose hearts were in the cause they had undertaken of Christianizing
the Indians. Two of them still live--one of whom, Mr. Spalding, has
conscientiously labored and deeply suffered for the faith. Mr. Gray, who
was an unmarried man, returned the following year to the States, for a
wife, and settled for a time among the Indians, but finally abandoned
the missionary service, and removed to the Wallamet valley. These five
persons constituted the entire force of teachers who could be induced at
that time to devote their lives to the instruction of the savages in the
neighborhood of the Rocky Mountains.
The trappers, and gentlemen of the Fur Company and Captain Stuart, had
been passive but interested spectators of the scene between the Indians
and the missionaries. When the excitement had somewhat subsided, and the
various camps had become settled in their places, the tents of the white
ladies were besieged with visitors, both civilized and savage. These
ladies, who were making an endeavor to acquire a knowledge of the Nez
Perce tongue in order to commence their instructions in the language of
the natives, could have made very little progress, had their purpose
been less strong than it was. Mrs. Spalding perhaps succeeded better
than Mrs. Whitman in the difficult study of the Indian dialect. She
seemed to attract the natives about her by the ease and kindness of her
manner, especially the native women, who, seeing she was an invalid,
clung to her rather than to her more lofty and self-asserting associate.
On the contrary, the leaders of the American Fur Company, Captain Wyeth
and Captain Stuart, paid Mrs. Whitman the most marked and courteous
attentions. She shone the bright particular star of that Rocky Mountain
encampment, softening the hearts and the manners of all who came within
her womanly influence. Not a gentleman among them but felt her silent
command upon him to be his better self while she remained in his
vicinity; not a trapper or camp-keeper but respected the presence of
womanhood and piety. But while the leaders paid court to her, the
bashful trappers contented themselves with promenading before her tent.
Should they succeed in catching her eye, they never failed to touch
their beaver-skin caps in their most studiously graceful manner, though
that should prove so dubious as to bring a mischievous smile to the blue
eyes of the observant lady.
But our friend Joe Meek did not belong by nature to the bashful brigade.
He was not content with disporting himself in his best trapper's toggery
in front of a lady's tent. He became a not infrequent visitor, and
amused Mrs. Whitman with the best of his mountain adventures, related in
his soft, slow, yet smooth and firm utterance, and with many a merry
twinkle of his mirthful dark eyes. In more serious moments he spoke to
her of the future, and of his determination, sometime, to "settle down."
When she inquired if he had fixed upon any spot which in his imagination
he could regard as "home" he replied that he could not content himself
to return to civilized life, but thought that when he gave up "bar
fighting and Injun fighting" he should go down to the Wallamet valley
and see what sort of life he could make of it there. How he lived up to
this determination will be seen hereafter.
The missionaries remained at the rendezvous long enough to recruit their
own strength and that of their stock, and to restore to something like
health the invalid Mrs. Spalding, who, on changing her diet to dried
meat, which the resident partners were able to supply her, commenced
rapidly to improve. Letters were written and given to Capt. Wyeth to
carry home to the States. The Captain had completed his sale of Fort
Hall and the goods it contained to the Hudson's Bay Company only a
short time previous, and was now about to abandon the effort to
establish any enterprise either on the Columbia or in the Rocky
Mountains. He had, however, executed his threat of the year previous,
and punished the bad faith of the Rocky Mountain Company by placing them
in direct competition with the Hudson's Bay Company.
The missionaries now prepared for their journey to the Columbia River.
According to the advice of the mountain-men the heaviest wagon was left
at the rendezvous, together with every heavy article that could be
dispensed with. But Dr. Whitman refused to leave the light wagon,
although assured he would never be able to get it to the Columbia, nor
even to the Snake River. The good Doctor had an immense fund of
determination when there was an object to be gained or a principle
involved. The only persons who did not oppose wagon transportation were
the Indians. They sympathised with his determination, and gave him their
assistance. The evidences of a different and higher civilization than
they had ever seen were held in great reverence by them. The wagons, the
domestic cattle, especially the cows and calves, were always objects of
great interest with them. Therefore they freely gave their assistance,
and a sufficient number remained behind to help the Doctor, while the
main party of both missionaries and Indians, having bidden the Fur
Company and others farewell, proceeded to join the camp of two Hudson's
Bay traders a few miles on their way.
The two traders, whose camp they now joined, were named McLeod and
McKay. The latter, Thomas McKay, was the half-breed son of that
unfortunate McKay in Mr. Astor's service, who perished on board the
_Tonquin_, as related in Irving's ASTORIA. He was one of the bravest and
most skillful partisans in the employ of the Hudson's Bay Company.
McLeod had met the missionaries at the American rendezvous and invited
them to travel in his company; an offer which they were glad to accept,
as it secured them ample protection and other more trifling benefits,
besides some society other than the Indians.
By dint of great perseverance, Doctor Whitman contrived to keep up with
the camp day after day, though often coming in very late and very weary,
until the party arrived at Fort Hall. At the fort the baggage was again
reduced as much as possible; and Doctor Whitman was compelled by the
desertion of his teamster to take off two wheels of his wagon and
transform it into a cart which could be more easily propelled in
difficult places. With this he proceeded as far as the Boise River where
the Hudson's Bay Company had a small fort or trading-post; but here
again he was so strongly urged to relinquish the idea of taking his
wagon to the Columbia, that after much discussion he consented to leave
it at Fort Boise until some future time when unencumbered by goods or
passengers he might return for it.
Arrived at the crossing of the Snake River, Mrs. Whitman and Mrs.
Spalding were treated to a new mode of ferriage, which even in their
varied experience they had never before met with. This new ferry was
nothing more or less than a raft made of bundles of bulrushes woven
together by grass ropes. Upon this frail flat-boat the passengers were
obliged to stretch themselves at length while an Indian swam across and
drew it after him by a rope. As the waters of the Snake River are rapid
and often "dancing mad," it is easy to conjecture that the ladies were
ill at ease on their bulrush ferry.
On went the party from the Snake River through the Grand Ronde to the
Blue Mountains. The crossing here was somewhat difficult but
accomplished in safety. The descent from the Blue Mountains on the west
side gave the missionaries their first view of the country they had come
to possess, and to civilize and Christianize. That view was beautiful
and grand--as goodly a prospect as longing eyes ever beheld this side of
Canaan. Before them lay a country spread out like a map, with the
windings of its rivers marked by fringes of trees, and its boundaries
fixed by mountain ranges above which towered the snowy peaks of Mt.
Hood, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Rainier. Far away could be traced the course of
the Columbia; and over all the magnificent scene glowed the red rays of
sunset, tinging the distant blue of the mountains until they seemed
shrouded in a veil of violet mist. It were not strange that with the
reception given them by the Indians, and with this bird's-eye view of
their adopted country, the hearts of the missionaries beat high with
hope.
[Illustration: DESCENDING THE BLUE MOUNTAINS.]
The descent from the Blue Mountains brought the party out on the
Umatilla River, where they camped, Mr. McLeod parting company with them
at this place to hasten forward to Fort Walla-Walla, and prepare for
their reception. After two more days of slow and toilsome travel with
cattle whose feet were cut and sore from the sharp rocks of the
mountains, the company arrived safely at Walla-Walla fort, on the third
of September. Here they found Mr. McLeod, and Mr. Panbram who had charge
of that post.
Mr. Panbram received the missionary party with every token of respect,
and of pleasure at seeing ladies among them. The kindest attentions were
lavished upon them from the first moment of their arrival, when the
ladies were lifted from their horses, to the time of their departure;
the apartments belonging to the fort being assigned to them, and all
that the place afforded of comfortable living placed at their disposal.
Here, for the first time in several months, they enjoyed the luxury of
bread--a favor for which the suffering Mrs. Spalding was especially
grateful.
At Walla-Walla the missionaries were informed that they were expected to
visit Vancouver, the head-quarters of the Hudson's Bay Company on the
Lower Columbia. After resting for two days, it was determined to make
this visit before selecting places for mission work among the Indians.
Accordingly the party embarked in the company's boats, for the voyage
down the Columbia, which occupied six days, owing to strong head winds
which were encountered at a point on the Lower Columbia, called Cape
Horn. They arrived safely on the eleventh of September, at Vancouver,
where they were again received with the warmest hospitality by the
Governor, Dr. John McLaughlin, and his associates. The change from the
privations of wilderness life to the luxuries of Fort Vancouver was very
great indeed, and two weeks passed rapidly away in the enjoyment of
refined society, and all the other elegancies of the highest
civilization.
At the end of two weeks, Dr. Whitman, Mr. Spalding, and Mr. Gray
returned to the Upper Columbia, leaving the ladies at Fort Vancouver
while they determined upon their several locations in the Indian
country. After an absence of several weeks they returned, having made
their selections, and on the third day of November the ladies once more
embarked to ascend the Columbia, to take up their residence in Indian
wigwams while their husbands prepared rude dwellings by the assistance
of the natives. The spot fixed upon by Dr. Whitman for his mission was
on the Walla-Walla River about thirty miles from the fort of that name.
It was called _Waiilatpu_; and the tribe chosen for his pupils were the
Cayuses, a hardy, active, intelligent race, rich in horses and pasture
lands.
Mr. Spalding selected a home on the Clearwater River, among the Nez
Perces, of whom we already know so much. His mission was called
_Lapwai_. Mr. Gray went among the Flatheads, an equally friendly tribe;
and here we shall leave the missionaries, to return to the Rocky
Mountains and the life of the hunter and trapper. At a future date we
shall fall in once more with these devoted people and learn what success
attended their efforts to Christianize the Indians.