MOVING
In 1910 the Syria mission decided upon an advance. The constitution had
been declared in Turkey and everyone hoped that a new era had really
begun for the people of the empire. Whatever might be the political
results, there were clear signs of industrial improvement. The German
railroad was being pushed toward Bagdad. Work was progressing rapidly on
the line from Tripoli to Homs. There could be but little doubt that the
importance of Homs as a commercial center would be greatly enhanced in
the near future. The strong evangelical community had been urgent for
years that a missionary family live in Homs. This was finally decided
upon and the choice of the mission fell on us. There are very few houses
for rent in Homs, and hence it seemed necessary to plan for a
missionary residence as soon as possible. An appropriation was made from
the Kennedy bequest for this purpose, and a piece of land was acquired
from the management of the Syrian Evangelical Boarding School.
[Illustration: HOMS]
[Illustration: HEATHEN TEMPLE AND MOUNT HERMON]
Moving in Syria is a different proposition from what it is in America.
There are no professional packers. The missionary must do his own
packing, if he would avoid excessive breakage. He must keep an eye on
the porters as they put his goods in the wagons. He must oversee the
freight men as they stow away the goods in the cars. At the Homs end of
the line every piece had to be carried to its destination on the back of
a donkey or a mule. It was no easy matter to balance some of the large
boxes on the insecure saddles, but it was all accomplished with time and
patience, with very little injury.
We secured a little house in the city for six months, which could be
occupied while the new house was in process of erection. It was a
curious little place but the owner was very proud of it. There was a
minaret directly across the narrow street, so we had the call to prayer
almost over our heads five times a day. The section of the city was
known as the Grass Market, because it was occupied largely by
greengrocers. We were awakened early every morning by the merchants
calling their wares and all day long could hear cries like this: "Oh,
plums, O generous one, a penny a pound: health and strength come from
God, Oh, plums, Oh, plums." The woodwork and windows of this little
house were so poorly constructed that it was impossible to keep anything
clean. The strong wind, which gathered up straw and dirt, seemed to
discharge its load all day long in the various rooms of that little
house.
In October the new mission house was ready for occupancy and we gladly
made the transfer to this permanent home. The city of Homs is perfectly
flat and quite compact. The streets are narrow and crooked, the houses
low, usually but one story high. The better houses are built of black
volcanic stone and the poorer houses of sun-dried brick. As a rule the
street wall is a dead blank surface, with merely a doorway admitting to
the inclosed courtyard. All this gives the city a dull, depressing
appearance. The old city was surrounded by a wall and a deep moat, and
at the south side, on a high hill, was the ancient castle faced with
black stone. This castle has been a complete ruin for over seventy years
and the city has outgrown its walls and spread across the moat.
The Evangelical School and the American mission house lie to the south
of the castle hill, on a rise of ground among the vineyards. Many houses
are being built near us, but we are still the vanguard to the south.
Directly opposite to us on the north side of the city is the great
mosque of Sayid Khalid, said to have cost sixteen thousand pounds. It
is a beautiful building, but recently completed. Between us and it lies
the old city, with its seventy thousand plain people. At present a vast
majority of the population look to the north rather than to the south,
but it is our strong hope that the more vital strength represented by
Christian education and Christian homes will win the victory over this
great city and the surrounding country, so that all shall be won for
Christ.
[Illustration: HAMIDIYEH MOSQUE _Tripoli_]
[Illustration: OLD CITY GATE _Tripoli_]