of moderate means to those successful plans which have demonstrated
economy in both, and at the same time preserved the full qualities of
strength and security so generally accorded to the old fogy principles
of framing, and which, we presume to say, is inferior in all the true
requisites of cheap and substantial building. Light sticks, uninjured by
cutting mortices or tenons, a close basket-like manner of construction,
short bearings, a continuous support for each piece of timber from
foundation to rafter, and embracing and taking advantage of the
practical fact, that the tensile and compressible strength of pine
lumber is equal to one-fifth of that of wrought iron, constitute
improvements introduced with this frame.
If, in erecting a building, we can so use our materials that every
strain will come in the direction of the fibre of some portion of the
wood work, we can make inch boards answer a better purpose than foot
square beams, and this application of materials is one reason of the
strength of Balloon Frames.
[Illustration: FIG. 108.--_Floor Plan._]
The Balloon Frame belongs to no one person; nobody claims it as an
invention, and yet in the art of construction it is one of the most
sensible improvements that has ever been made.
That which has hitherto called out a whole neighborhood, and required a
vast expenditure of labor, time, and noise, can, by the adoption of the
balloon frame, be done with all the quietness and security of an
ordinary day's work. A man and boy can now attain the same results,
with ease, that twenty men could on an old fashioned frame.
The name of "Basket Frame" would convey a better impression, but the
name "Balloon" has long ago outlived the derision which suggested it.
[Illustration: FIG. 109.--_Elevation Section--manner of nailing--A.
corner stud, 4 by 4--B. joist, 3 by 8--C. stud, 2 by 4._]
[Illustration: FIG. 110.--_D. Upper Edge of Joist--E. Stud._]
The moment the foundation is prepared, and the bill of lumber on the
ground, the balloon frame is ready to raise, and a man and boy can do
all of it. The sills are generally 3 inches by 8 inches, halved at the
ends or corners, and nailed together with large nails. Having laid the
sills upon the foundation, the next thing in order is to put up the
studding. Use 4 by 4 studs for corners and door posts, or spike two 2 by
4 studs together, stand them up, set them plumb, and with stay laths
secure them in position. Set up the intermediate studs, which are 2 by 4
inches, and 16 inches between centres, toe or nail them diagonally to
the sill. Then put in the floor joists for first floor, each joist to be
placed alongside each stud, and nailed to it and to the sill. Next
measure the height to ceiling, and with a chalk line mark it around the
entire range of studding; below the ceiling line notch each stud one
inch deep and four inches wide, and into this, flush with the inside
face of the studding, nail an inch strip four inches wide. This notch
may be cut before putting up the studs. If the frame be lined on the
inside, it will not be necessary to notch the strip into the studs, but
simply to nail it to the studding; the object of notching the studding
is to present a flush surface for lathing, as well as to form a shoulder
or bearing necessary to sustain the second floor; both of these are
accomplished by lining inside the studding--(for small barns and
outbuildings that do not require plastering, nail the strip 1 by 4 to
the studding)--on this rests the joists of the second floor, the ends of
which come flush to the outside face of the studding, and both ends of
each joist are securely nailed to each stud; the bearing of the joist on
the inch strip below is close by the stud, and the inch strip rests on a
shoulder or lower side of the notch cut to receive it. This bearing is
so strong that the joists will break before it would yield. Having
reached the top of the building, each stud is sawed off to an equal
height; if any are too short they are spliced by placing one on top of
the other, and nailing a strip of inch board on both sides. The wall
plate, 2 by 4 inches, is laid flat on top of the studding, and nailed to
each stud; the rafters are then put on; they are notched, allowing the
ends to project outside for cornice, &c. The bearing of each rafter
comes directly over the top of each stud, and is nailed to it.
[Illustration: FIG. 111.--_Side Elevation.--G. Manner of splicing
sills.--F. Manner of splicing studs._]
[Illustration: FIG. 112.--_End Elevation._]
A Balloon Frame looks light, and its name was given in contempt by those
old fogy mechanics who had been brought up to rob a stick of timber of
all its strength and durability, by cutting it full of mortices, tenons
and augur holes, and then supposing it to be stronger than a far lighter
stick differently applied, and with all its capabilities unimpaired.
Properly constructed, and with timber adapted to its purposes, it will
stand securely against the fury of the elements, and answer every
purpose that an old fashioned timber frame is calculated to fulfill.
When the building is supported on posts, heavy sills are necessary, and
the frame should be securely nailed or spiked together. The bents may be
16, 24 or 30 inches apart, and covered in the usual manner. The thrust
of both the rafters and contents of the building are outward; the tie, 1
by 4, is abundantly strong, as each one will practically sustain, in the
direction of its fibre, three tons. The floor joists are nailed to studs
at each end. No one need fear any lack of perfect security, as these
ties exceed in strength any hold that tenons could have.
Fig. 113 illustrates the manner of framing buildings of one story, such
as are used about almost every farm or country seat, as tool houses,
granaries, wash-houses, spring houses, &c., &c.
[Illustration: FIG. 113.--_Isometrical Perspective Balloon Frame._]
Very small buildings, if unplastered, will not require ceiling joists; a
tie at each end will be all-sufficient. Moderate size buildings will be
strong enough if the ceiling joists are left out, and collars put on
half way up the rise of the rafter. According to the size and uses of
the building, the collars or ceiling joists may be put on every rafter,
every other, or every third rafter; floor joists should be about 16
inches between centres, and the studding may be from 16 inches to 8 feet
apart; in the last case only, every sixth floor joist is nailed to the
stud, the intermediate ones being arranged equally distant from each
other between the studding. Where the studding is placed wide apart, the
plate must necessarily be heavier to sustain the roof; if vertical
siding be used, it should be nailed to the sill and plate, and to an
intermediate horizontal strip spiked in between the studding; if done
in this way, the plate may be lighter; when horizontal siding is used,
the studding should not be more than 4 feet apart--in small buildings,
say 12 by 20 feet, we should cut all our stuff, except joists, from
1-1/4 inch plank. Studs 4 inches wide, rafters 5 inches wide; floor
joists should be 2 by 9 inches, and put all up 30 inches between
centres.
In Fig. 114 is shown the manner of constructing frames for buildings of
three stories. The corner stud, 4 by 4, is composed of and built up with
two 2 by 4 studs, which are nailed together, breaking joints as the
building progresses in height; the splicing of studs is done in the same
manner, being nailed together as fast as additional length is required;
the joists of the last floor are laid upon the plate, and they act as
tie-beams to sustain the thrust of the rafters. We consider the splice
where the studs butt and have side strips nailed to them, to be the most
secure; the lapping splice is very generally used, however, and found to
answer every purpose.
Ribs for vertical siding may be put on in two ways; one as shown, by
which the ribs run over the sill, and are nailed to it; a strip of the
same thickness as ribs, say 1-1/4 inches, nailed on to the sill to fill
up the space between the ribs, and is then covered by the outside plinth
or base. The other plan is to set the studs back 1-1/4 inches from face
edge of sill; then let the end of ribs bevel down on the sill, or
dovetail them into the edge.
[Illustration: FIG. 114.--_Three Story Building._ _Balloon Framing._
_Details._
Fig. 115. Joist notched down on plate.
Fig. 116. Side girt not gained in for small unplastered buildings. Fig.
117. Inside lining--answers the same purpose as a side girth.
Fig. 118. Joist bearing on sill.]
Either outside or inside lining may be used, or both together. Where
diagonal lining is used, it should be reversed or run the other way on
the opposite side of the house.
[Illustration: FIG. 120.--_Diagonal Ribs for Vertical or Battened
Siding._]
The lining of a Balloon Frame adds immensely to its strength,
particularly so if put on diagonally; it may be done outside or inside,
though on the whole the inside is preferable. If done outside, it should
be carried over the sill and nailed to it; the sill being wider than the
studding, in order to get a larger bearing on the masonry, and the floor
joists being in the way, does not admit of inside lining being put on in
the same manner.
A first-class Balloon Frame should be lined, if for vertical siding,
outside the studding--if horizontal siding is used, line inside; it
makes the frame stiffer and the building warmer. Some line diagonally,
say from centre next the first floor towards extreme upper corners both
ways; others line one side diagonally in one direction, and the other in
an opposite direction. This makes assurance of strength doubly sure. If
lined inside, nail perpendicular lath to the lining 16 inches from
centres, and on this lath horizontally for plastering.
[Illustration: FIG. 121.--_Showing lengthwise and crosswise manner of
tying frame._]
The principle of Balloon Framing is the true one for strength, as well
as for economy. If a mechanic is employed, the Balloon Frame can be put
up for _forty per cent. less money_ than the mortice and tenon frame. If
you erect a balloon frame yourself, which you can easily do without the
aid of a mechanic, it costs the price of the materials and whatever
value you put upon your own time.
Fig. 23 shows the manner of attaching the flooring to gable end
studding, and in those buildings in which the thrust of the rafters is
in the direction of the flooring--if every third stud be bolted to the
joist in the manner shown, it makes the tie equal if not superior to
that in the direction of the joists.
[Illustration: FIG. 122.--_Manner of Framing Large Barns._]
Fig. 122 explains the manner of framing the largest class of barns. Wide
openings, like bays, require the use of heavy timber, and the mortice,
tenon and brace, only so far as the gallows frame is concerned; the
balance of the frame is of light stuff, studding 2 feet to 2-1/2 feet
apart, 2 by 6 inches, every third one 2 by 8 inches, into which is
gained the side girt, it being nailed to the others. On this rests one
end of the temporary floors, the gallows frame supports the roof, and
the rafters are secured to it, so that they become ties. The side of
this building is like a floor turned on edge, and is firmly secured by
the floor joists at the bottom and the rafters at the top.
Warehouses, depots, and other buildings of a very large size, can be
made stronger by using the Balloon Frame, instead of the heavy timber
frame. Those who prefer to err on the right side, can get unnecessary
strength by using deeper studding, placing them closer together, putting
in one or more rows of bridging and as many diagonal ribs as they like.
In large buildings there is no saving in timber, only the substitution
of small sizes for large--the great saving is in the labor, which is
quite important.
The following are some of the advantages claimed for the Balloon Frame:
1. The principal labor of framing is dispensed with.
2. It is a far cheaper frame to raise.
3. It is stronger and more durable than any other frame.
4. Any stick can be removed, and another put in its place, without
disturbing the strength of those remaining--in fact, the whole building
can be renewed stick by stick.
5. It is adapted to every style of building, and better adapted for all
irregular forms.
6. It is forty per cent. cheaper than any other known style of frame.
7. It embraces strength, security, comfort and economy, and can be put
up without the aid of a mechanic.
Established in 1846.
"THE HORTICULTURIST,"
AND JOURNAL OF RURAL ART AND RURAL TASTE.
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The Author of _My Farm of Edgewood_,
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write regularly.
_Back Volumes and Numbers supplied._
GEO. E. & F. W. WOODWARD,
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A new, practical, and original Work on the design and construction of
all classes of Horticultural Buildings, including Hot-beds, Propagating
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GEO. E. & F. W. WOODWARD,
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_Office of the "Horticulturist," 37 PARK ROW, N. Y._
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No. 37 PARK ROW, NEW YORK
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* * * * *
Transcriber's Notes:
Obvious punctuation errors repaired.
This text uses both hyphenated and spaced forms of its rooms, i.e.
bed-room and bed room. Also used were variations on hyphenated and not
words such stair-way and stairway.
Page 16 "ofwhich" changed to "of which" (of which the public)
Page 28, "accomodation" changed to "accommodation" (of this
accommodation)
Page 34, "accomodation" changed to "accommodation" (amount of
accommodation)
Page 83, "understand" changed to "understands" (one that understands)
Page 104, "accomodation" changed to "accommodation" (for their
accommodation)
Page 124, "posesses" changed to "possesses" (possesses all the
attractions)
Page 148, "desends" changed to "descends" (where it descends)
Page 164, "23" changed to "121" (Fig. 121 shows the manner)