some new element, while all sorts of gurgling, trickling, liquid sounds
fell upon my ear. People may say what they will about the refreshing
influences of a cold-water bath, but commend me, when in a perspiration,
to the shade baths of Tior, beneath the cocoanut trees, and amidst the
cool delightful atmosphere which surrounds them.
How shall I describe the scenery that met my eye, as I looked out from
this verdant recess! The narrow valley, with its steep and close
adjoining sides draperied with vines, and arched overhead with a
fretwork of interlacing boughs, nearly hidden from view by masses of
leafy verdure, seemed from where I stood like an immense arbour
disclosing its vista to the eye, whilst as I advanced it insensibly
widened into the loveliest vale eye ever beheld.
It so happened that the very day I was in Tior the French admiral,
attended by all the boats of his squadron, came down in state from
Nukuheva to take formal possession of the place. He remained in the
valley about two hours, during which time he had a ceremonious interview
with the king. The patriarch-sovereign of Tior was a man very far
advanced in years; but though age had bowed his form and rendered him
almost decrepit, his gigantic frame retained all its original magnitude
and grandeur of appearance. He advanced slowly and with evident pain,
assisting his tottering steps with the heavy war-spear he held in his
hand, and attended by a group of gray-bearded chiefs, on one of whom he
occasionally leaned for support. The admiral came forward with head
uncovered and extended hand, while the old king saluted him by a stately
flourish of his weapon. The next moment they stood side by side, these
two extremes in the social scale--the polished, splendid Frenchman, and
the poor tattooed savage. They were both tall and noble-looking men;
but in other respects how strikingly contrasted! Du Petit Thouars
exhibited upon his person all the paraphernalia of his naval rank. He
wore a richly decorated admiral's frock-coat, a laced _chapeau bras_,
and upon his breast were a variety of ribbons and orders; while the
simple islander, with the exception of a slight cincture about his
loins, appeared in all the nakedness of nature.
At what immeasurable distance, thought I, are these two beings removed
from each other. In the one is shown the result of long centuries of
progressive civilization and refinement, which have gradually converted
the mere creature into the semblance of all that is elevated and grand;
while the other, after the lapse of the same period, has not advanced
one step in the career of improvement. "Yet, after all," quoth I to
myself, "insensible as he is to a thousand wants, and removed from
harassing cares, may not the savage be the happier man of the two?"
Such were the thoughts that arose in my mind as I gazed upon the novel
spectacle before me. In truth, it was an impressive one, and little
likely to be effaced. I can recall even now with vivid distinctness
every feature of the scene. The umbrageous shades where the interview
took place, the glorious tropical vegetation around, the picturesque
grouping of the mingled throng of soldiery and natives, and even the
golden-hued bunch of bananas that I held in my hand at the time, and of
which I occasionally partook while making the aforesaid philosophical
reflections.