The Lower Camp
Towards the latter end of May the great "strafe" ended. The Turks
informed us that our punishment was fulfilled, and that we were to
return to normal times again. For several days the senior officers of
the different nationalities were very busy examining our new quarters
and arranging matters generally, and then we began to move by masses out
of the church. The French went first, to an Armenian house in the town.
Soon afterwards the Russians followed to other houses in the same part
of the Armenian quarter. And then the British officers, of whom there
were now about forty, moved into a completely new block of jerry-built
houses down by the station road. So new were the houses that the one I
was in had no doors or windows when we went into it, and was not really
completed the whole time we were there.
This block of four houses was known as the Lower Camp, for the Armenian
quarter, or Upper Camp, was on higher ground and about a mile distant
from it.
The Lower Camp consisted of a row of four houses under one continuous
roof. Each house contained a kitchen and two rooms on the ground floor,
as well as an open space in the centre, and three bedrooms upstairs,
grouped round a central landing which served as a mess-room. The
orderlies lived downstairs, and the officers upstairs, two in one small
room at the back, and four in each of the two larger rooms in front.
Behind the houses was an open space, of rather over a quarter of an acre
in extent, bounded by the backs of the houses on one side and by walls
on the other three. This was known as the garden; for, when first we got
there, it contained a couple of dozen cherry-trees about as big as
walking-sticks. But these did not long survive, for a quarter of an acre
is not a large playground for forty active officers and a dozen equally
active orderlies, to say nothing of dogs and Turkish guards.
From the upper rooms we had wide views in both directions, out across
the plain and far away into the distant hills. The front faced
approximately south-east, and thirty miles away we could see the fine
range of mountains known as the Sultan Dagh, capped with snow until far
on into the summer. From the back windows we could see the Kara-Hissar,
and a number of other rocky hills, like islands in the plain; and, in
the distance, rolling hills and mountains one behind another. A good
deal of the plain visible between the rocks was saline, and in early
summer was blue with masses of a wild flower we knew as sea lavender.
It was really a beautiful view, especially in the spring, when the land
was not so colourless as at other times. The soil of the plain was very
soft and friable, and much dust used to hang in suspension, giving very
vivid colours to the sunsets; sunsets of golden pheasants and peacocks'
tails, and sunsets of red-hot copper. I have seen every shadow on the
wall in the evening as blue as the bluest sea.
In the late summer great dust-storms used to roll up across the plain.
We could see them gather on the distant hills, and come speeding towards
us like banks of fog. And, as we hurriedly closed all the windows and
fixed them tight, the storms would break upon the rocks, towering up
high into the air in waves of brown, while the main body drove furiously
towards us and lashed at the windows. A high wind would blow furiously
for a few minutes, and then the storm would pass on across the plain,
and rain would sprinkle the dust.
Some day that plain will be a great natural aerodrome, where people will
halt on their way from Europe to the Far East.
The inhabitants of the house I was in, No. 3, were practically the same
as in the house by the city wall in Angora. No. 1 was principally
Mesopotamian, No. 2 chiefly the old Afion crowd, and No. 4 largely
composed of the second Angora house. During the next two and a-half
years many new prisoners came, and the old inhabitants had periodical
times of restlessness when they shifted round, but the nuclei of the
houses remained more or less constant, and the characteristic tone of
each house remained practically unalterable. It is a very curious thing
this tone or soul of each small subdivision of a community. I suppose
every home in England has its own personal tone. Certainly each house in
a public school has. Each ship has, and each regiment; and, in a larger
way, each nation has, and will retain it despite Bolshevism.
We had not long been in the Lower Camp when new prisoners began to
arrive. I cannot pretend to remember the order of their coming, for I
kept no diary and have not a single note to help me; it does not, in any
case, matter.
The yeomanry taken at Katia in the Sinai peninsula passed through on
their way to a town in the north of Anatolia. We only had a glimpse of
them as they passed; but we were able to supply them with a few books.
Other prisoners came in who stayed with us. The earliest to arrive were
a very few who had been taken, one or two at a time, in the attempt to
relieve Kut. One of these had been kept for several days in a small tent
with a number of Arabs condemned to death. The Arabs were not allowed
out of the tent for any purpose whatever.
Another had been chained to an Indian, and had dysentery while so
chained. He and the Indian both got typhus, and the Indian died. After
weeks in hospital the Britisher pulled through typhus, malignant
malaria, and chronic rheumatism. He is now pulling through phthisis.
Before that he had had sunstroke, and he was shot through the chest; not
a bad record for a constitution to have pulled through.
Another British officer had been housed in the public gaol at Mosul,
among the Turkish criminals, whose habits were so filthy that he asked
to be allowed a privy to himself. His request was met by an order
calculated to humiliate a clean Englishman in the eyes of the people of
Mosul; for, after that, he was taken out each day by an armed guard and
graciously permitted to make use of the street in the open bazaar. As I
said before, Turks are a disgusting people.
Gradually, as more prisoners arrived, we overflowed into the Upper Camp.
The Russians were sent away to another part of Anatolia, and their
houses given over to British.
One other visit we had, from a German Staff-Colonel and several
subordinates. "When will the war end?" we asked the great man. "When we
have taken Verdun," was his reply.
We had not much liberty at this time. A certain number of officers were
allowed to go shopping on several days in the week. A piece of rocky
ground was assigned to us to play cricket on. Each officer was allowed
to go to the Turkish bath once a week. And once a week the camps visited
each other.
For the rest, we had the garden, and the Upper Camp had a part of the
street between their houses.
The chief game in the garden was a sort of badminton, played over a net
with tennis rackets and balls made of stitched-up lumps of old sock. It
went by the name of Bufru, coined by a cunning forger of Turkish.
But indoors there were many activities, both mental and physical. I
should be afraid to say how many people wrote books. But the number of
those who wrote plays must have been even greater. Some of them were
very well produced. Several officers, notably one of the Australians,
showed themselves to be quite expert designers of costumes, and most
efficient needlemen. And some of the youngsters made very pretty women.
The art of the female sex, in dressing as they do, was borne in upon me
when I saw how quite plain young men could be made to look most
attractive girls. +A+ for a day, +B+ for a week, and +C+ for a life
partnership, as someone wickedly compared the attractions of the three
leading ladies. Some of the plays were very funny indeed, but the wit
was not of that order which makes you pride yourself that you can see
it. As a rule, it flew up and struck you all of a heap.
Another trial of the times was the debating society, in which all things
on earth were discussed in due form, with a chairman, a proposer and
seconder, an opposer and his second, a butter-in, and a ribald gallery.
For days afterwards I used to hear the points argued and re-debated by
the orderlies in the kitchen beneath my room. And two of the officers
took themselves as future Public Men so seriously that they used to
practise elocution on each other, each in turn suffering himself to be
addressed by the other as "Gentlemen."
There were lectures, too, some of them very good ones. The subjects
dealt with were catholic and included cocoanut-planting, Mendelism,
flying, submarines, Singhalese history, Greek coins, Egyptian
irrigation, and a host of other matters.
Besides these public efforts, there were men studying all manner of
things in little cliques, or by themselves. One officer who knew no
Arabic tapped Zaki to such good purpose that he (not Zaki) wrote an
Arabic grammar. One old Australian of fifty, who had always lived, and
would continue to live, in the back of beyond, studied simultaneously
French, Norwegian, and Esperanto. There were teachers of mathematics,
teachers of German, Tamil, Italian, Turkish and Russian. There were
people teaching themselves to draw, or to play musical instruments.
There were people studying law and medicine. I am sure that, at that
time, we were the greatest centre of intellectual endeavour in the whole
of the Turkish Empire.
In addition to the more purely intellectual occupations there were a
number of really skilled carpenters, an officer who made himself an
excellent little forge, where he turned out some very clever work, after
having first manufactured the needful tools out of scrap steel; among
them I remember a pocket-knife with various implements in it, and a
stethoscope. The latter was for Bill.
Then there were cunning adorners of rooms, and still more cunning mixers
of cocktails, in which a number of nauseous ingredients was made to
taste good, as two negatives make an affirmative.
There were also breeders of dogs. Quite a rage there was for keeping
dogs, on a quarter of an acre of land. Hilda and Gumush, the two
original hounds of the Church days, presented their owners respectively
with twelve and eleven puppies all in one week. At first it was very
pretty to watch Bart training the young greyhounds, and teaching them to
jump; he was a notable trainer of dogs. But when they all grew up, the
overcrowding became intolerable. Public opinion revolted. Feelings were
very deeply stirred, and people voted anti-dog or pro-dog, or
pro-two-dogs, or pro or anti every possible combination and permutation
of dogs. In the end the dogs were treated much as the Armenians. Some
were slain, more were deported, and only three remained: Hilda, Gumush,
and a funny little animal called Roger, who had a long body on the
smallest legs, with the lowest gear, that I have ever seen.
In addition to dogs there were other pets: ducks, pigeons, chickens,
enormous eagle-owls, a vulture, magpies, and finally a wolf. Cats were
tried, but were somehow not a success.
There was also the native fauna. In my room I caught mice, voles, and
shrews. Also smaller and more unpleasant creatures. Quite a feature of
the spring awakening was the almost universal "bug-strafing" of beds.
Our beds were all home made: a frame of pinewood, strung with thin rope,
and carried on four legs. The joints and the holes where the rope passed
through were the chief haunts of the foe. After breakfast, on a warm
morning, officers in shirt sleeves, with kettles of boiling water and
pots of Stockholm tar, might be seen carrying out that bold military
measure known as a bug-strafe.
In summer I slung my bed by four ropes from the ceiling, and was fairly
immune. They did not climb down the ropes, and they could not reach up
from the floor, even standing on tip-toe. It was not only secure, but
uncommonly comfortable.
Occasionally the Turks searched through our belongings to see if we had
disguises, or diaries, or food stored for escape.
The first time they did it they caught us properly; but made an awful
muddle of their triumph.
We were all ordered out into the garden, for what purpose we did not
know; and, once out, sentries were placed at all the doors, and we were
not allowed back again. But we asked as a favour that one cook in each
house might be permitted to return, as otherwise our dinners would be
spoiled. This was allowed. They began by searching No. 1 house, and as
they were doing so our noble cook hid everything of any importance that
he could lay hands on. Some under the charcoal, and some under the straw
in Roger's kennel. Roger was very snappy with Turks, like all good dogs
he detested them; and he sat tight on all my MSS. among other things.
Everything in writing that a Turk cannot understand is to him
abominable. What he can understand is rare above rubies.
Despite the efforts of the cooks, they did find a great deal of written
matter, some of which it had been very unwise to keep: such things as
diaries with descriptions of acts of atrocity in them, and plans for
escape. There was nothing, so far as I ever heard, of the slightest
military value. But there was a great deal that might have done us much
harm. Perhaps the church over again. Fortunately the whole mass of
literature was so enormous that it could not possibly be dealt with on
the spot, so everything, plays, books, mess accounts, and the notes of
study, as well as the more dangerous things, was stuffed into two or
three sacks, and put in a small house in the garden. In addition to the
sentry permanently in the garden, another, with a loaded rifle, was
placed to guard the small house. This consisted of one room, with a
barred window at one end, and a barred window and a locked door at the
side. The side opposite to the door was blank, and was part of the
garden wall. But the end facing No. 4 house had a tiny window in it
which had no bars. There were no blinds to any of the windows, and the
sentry had only to look in to see that the sacks were still there.
The matter was very serious indeed. There was some very incriminating
stuff there, and we did not at all desire another two months of the
church. All sorts of measures were proposed and rejected. Burning the
whole place down was mooted, but decided to be impossible, for paper
burns so slowly that the sacks would certainly be saved. Then Bart did a
very daring thing. He had slim shoulders, but a great heart, and he
thought his narrow body might squeeze through the unbarred window. He
waited an opportunity and dived through. Once in, squatted on the floor,
the sentry would have to come right up to the window in order to see
him. But the sentry only watched the door. And while he watched, Bart
went through the lot as swiftly as a post office sorter, and removed
more than half of the most dangerous items. He got safely out again,
while the sentry still watched the door.
In No. 3 house, an officer named Budd was less fortunate. Trying to
explain that he wanted to keep the mess accounts, he lost his temper and
damned the interpreter. He was at once searched personally, and sent
away into the town, where he was confined in a cellar. When he asked for
bread, the gaoler said, "Para yok, ekmek yok," which means, "No money,
no bread." Fortunately, Budd had money; but he had a very unpleasant
five or six days before he was released. In the cell next to his he
heard a poor, miserable little Chaldean priest, who had bravely but
unwisely kept some record of the Armenian girls enslaved in various
Turkish families, being mercilessly flogged, and screaming in his
agony.
Bart had collected some of the diaries, but there were still others, and
at least one plan of escape most unwisely committed to writing. A
community would be incomplete without its salt of folly.
A few days later the remaining documents returned to us too. The Turks
had bungled over the cooks, bungled over guarding their spoil, and now
they bungled again worse than ever. They had a positive genius for
incompetency: a masterly faculty for determining the wrong way to do a
thing, and for doing it. After a few days, a sack of papers and
note-books was returned to the camp. To our surprise, it was found to
contain all those documents which we had feared the Turks might discover
and keep.
But the puzzle was elucidated by a letter which followed, a rather
abject letter from the interpreter, stating that he had returned the
wrong sack by mistake, and, if we would not tell the Commandant of his
error, would now send us the right one! So we recovered everything.
In the Upper Camp they were not so lucky. There, the Turks adopted the
simple method of destroying all written matter. It was things like that
which made it so difficult for officers to keep any account of the
treatment of their men.
The only person, besides Budd, who suffered actual penalty from this
raid, so far as I remember, was the celebrated French cook, late of the
Jockey Club. He had kept a diary, and in it had stupidly written the use
to which he thought the Turkish flag should be put by a French sailor.
It might be thought, after some of our treatment, that this was merely
tit-for-tat, six of one and half a dozen of the other. As a fact, it was
twelve dozen of one and very gross of the other. So the French cook went
to gaol, and we saw him in Afion no more.
In this gallery of portraits I think Porter is more than worthy of
mention. He was an orderly in No. 4 house, a slight, fair-haired young
fellow from the Isle of Wight. Before the war he had been a barber, and
he used to cut our hair and trim our beards: for many of us grew beards.
But his claim to fame was that he was the most wounded man in Afion. In
an attack on Gallipoli he had been shot through the body, and while
lying on the ground had been terribly wounded again by shrapnel. To
finish him off the Turks had cut his head open with a shovel, and
bayoneted him many times. He had in all twenty-one wounds. But he
resolutely refused to die, and when last I saw him was as merry as a
cricket, and able to play quite a good game of football. I sometimes
wonder how many wound-stripes he is entitled to, and whether he is
trying to grow fat enough to wear them all. He told me once that what he
disliked most was being stabbed in the stomach; and he certainly is an
authority to be respected.
Having no diary, I shall certainly not tempt critics by trying to fix a
date for the total eclipse of the moon. But one occurred while I was in
the lower camp, some time between June of 1916 and November of 1917. It
was either just before or just after the entry of Greece into the war.
Elston and I, who occupied a small room at the back of the house, had
gone to bed early and were nearly asleep when we were roused by repeated
firing away in the town. We sat at the window and watched flash after
flash; some in the streets, some on the hill-side, and some apparently
from the windows. There were the shots of modern rifles, of revolvers,
and the duller boom of old-fashioned muzzle-loading guns. We thought at
first it was brigands attacking the town. Then we remembered the Greeks,
and we feared that a great massacre had begun, for there were many
Greeks in Afion. They must be putting up a good fight, we thought, as
we listened to the continuous crackling, and watched the flashes. So we
went across the mess-room to see if the others in the front rooms, had
heard it, too. We found them all gathered at the windows, watching the
eclipse of the moon. The whole town was blazing away at the dragon who
was swallowing the moon. In the road before the house our sentries stood
anxiously, all blazing away Government ammunition in the good cause;
ammunition that was meant for us. They just flung their rifles to their
shoulders and opened rapid fire, loaded up, and did it again.
In No. 2 house there was an officer who had lived for years in Turkey
and knew the language well; so, when the N.C.O. in charge of the guard
addressed his troops, we had a ready interpreter. "We are all ignorant
men," said the chaous. "I am ignorant myself. But I know that the moon
has not gone for ever. It will return. Still, I don't like that
blood-red colour, so fire away." And they did.