My instructions were to present myself next morning, without fail, at
the shipping offices of Messrs. Wright, Style and Storey, in Cardiff.
Mary's double accordingly hurried me through my breakfast and led the
way to Paddington. I urged myself to realize that I was going upon
holiday; but, it cannot be withheld, the thought of this particular
pleasure had a serious tinge. Paddington itself, to such an islander as
I am, had some of the credit of this. To me, that large terminus is, as a
jumping-off position, less human than, for example, Victoria. From
Paddington, with its Western propaganda, it may well seem that humanity
is travelling out into the round world's imagined corners; but Victoria,
with its lesser range in sight, leaves a quieter speculation. From
Brighton there is no such press of mammoth liners? Even when the
destination was the B.E.F., it was comforting to me to set out from
Victoria, whence the way led through a compact, placid, formerly
uninternational, still un-Atlantic quarter. A Society for the Suppression
of Astronomers has been mooted by the lazy-minded. I am not sure that
geographers should not be included. Distances, no doubt, are as essential
to romance as to Copley Fielding's water-colours; but they can rouse in
some of us troubling thoughts, which, summed up, say "Leave us alone!"
Such thoughts had disturbed me when, with farewells from Bess, I retired
to the sporting columns of my newspaper, and the train moved out.
In compensation for my experience of the previous evening, the journey
went quickly by. A sunny morning, blue and still, lit up the country.
So fine was the day, and the country, with its ancient timber, its
mole-hilled pastures, its feeding horses and cheerful rooks, appeared so
mellow, that the wisdom of leaving it behind was not so conspicuous as,
the night before, it had been. Cardiff. I knew nothing about it, except
as "Cardiff." I entrusted myself, therefore, to a taxi-driver, who
claimed to know more, even to the whereabouts of the shipping office
to which I was bound. After meanderings and advice from the police and
the public, he made amends for his inaccuracy by setting me down at
the foot of a gloomy staircase leading to the rooms of Messrs. Wright,
Style and Storey.
And now for a few moments I was in trouble. Thinking that the telegram
which warranted my calling at this Cardiff office of the London Company
would best explain my intrusion, I handed it over the fateful counter.
The clerk took it, assumed a serious air, avoided looking at me, and
referred to a superior. I was puzzled. More so, the superior. A murderer,
concerned in the atrocity at Bournemouth, was at that time untraced,
and I fancy that the official had the mystery in his mind at this point.
At any rate, eyeing the wire with doubt for some time, he suddenly
advanced towards me and put the question, in stern accents: "Who are you?"
Who are you?
I feel sure that my explanation was unbusinesslike, but he presently
divined the truth. Word of my movement had not been sent him from London.
He withdrew to the telephone or time-table; then restoring to me my
sibylline leaf, told me to go to Barry Docks, where I should find the
_Bonadventure_, recognizable by a white S painted on the funnel, lying
at Tip Eleven or Twelve, and to go aboard and report myself to the
captain. I went, fearing lest the captain likewise might know as little
in advance about the trembling suspect before him.
Urchins scrambled for my luggage at the Barry Docks Station, an hour
or so later, and the two victors hurried it along to Tip Eleven. These
coal-tips overhead and the shipping alongside, with knots of workmen
passing masked in coal-dust, engaged my mind as we went, and before I
was fully aware of it we were aboard a vessel which the boys recognized as
the _Bonadventure_. I paid the carriers, who went away at speed, and
asked a wooden-faced seaman, who seemed to be alone, where I could find
the captain. He at once cut short my search by the tone in which he
observed, "The captain! He's having his dinner at the present." I was
rebuked, and stood by. (I had still to witness the multitudes who want to
find the captain of a ship in port.)
I took a look at the ship, but felt lost as I did so. She was large, and
of vague shape. I could not determine where she began and where she left
off. A pall of coal covered everything. Heaps of cinders, which a casual
glance described as of some seniority, lay against the deck railing. I saw
hut-like structures about me where I stood, amidships, as the boys had
said; but I feared to explore. At times some one with a plate or a jug
was seen stooping swiftly through their doorways--evidence indeed of the
captain's dinner-hour. Inaction, nevertheless, grew unpromising; and at
last I asked an officer, as I rightly thought him, who had come out
to keep an eye on several blasphemous and strongly individual beings
with large spades, whether I might see the captain. When he heard my
business, he quickly took me to him. I found myself speaking to a quiet,
smiling, and enviably robust man who, to my relief, was not mystified
by my arrival. He set me at my ease, told me that I should sign on as
a member of the crew to-morrow, and allowed me to stay on the ship
meanwhile. I was glad of this, being weary of quests for the time being.
Not quite at home, as may be gathered, I went out on deck, and watched the
tips in action; admired the mimic thunder--first the abrupt and rending,
shattering crash, then the antistrophe of continued rollings--which each
truckful of coal makes as it is tumbled into the shoot and thereby into
the ship's holds. Truck after truck was drawn up, the pin knocked away
from the end board and the coal hurled, its dusky clouds fuming out,
into the ship: its atmosphere did not seem to strain or irritate the
breathing organs of those worthies with the spades, and the pipes,
whose vague labouring silhouettes enlivened the gloom. Engines plied
constantly beside the docks with long trains of coal. As if expressing
itself, one emitted a peculiar twofold groan. All this, of course,
ancient history, but I was new to it. It seemed like the beginnings of
wisdom.
But the world of iron and smoke could not warm my body as well as it did
my mind, and while I was brooding over the increasing bite in the air of
that January afternoon, the officer whom I was to know soon as the mate, a
young man of clear-cut features and tranquil manner, told me to make use
of the saloon. I sat there reading, when another introduction took place.
The steward, a weighty old man remarkable at first sight for his brown
skull-cap, came in to say he had fitted me up with a cabin. Following him
up a staircase, I took over this dugout-like dwelling with no small
satisfaction. It was to be my home, he said, for three or four months
on this South American run. I unpacked, and washed away the unearned, and
unsuspected, film of coal-dust which was to characterize my home for the
same length of time.
Tea came, and I was mildly puzzled again, when the steward's assistant
asked me to choose between a bloater, cold meat, and so on. I was deciding
on something slenderer, when I realized that tea included supper, and
applied for a kipper. The captain's wife kept conversation alive. The
topic, I remember, was the lamented custom which once permitted captains'
wives to make "the round trip" with their husbands.
The coal still rattled into the holds every moment or two, and the same
process was going on all round us. The water was bright in the moon,
and the reflections of the lamps fastened high over the ships swum like
golden serpents in the ripples. In such a light, to such a watcher,
there seemed no end to the serried framework and the cordage to the
giant sea travellers of steel. The constant clanging and whistling and
crash spoke to the work of the machines, an occasional shout to the
guiding energies of the men.