UP THE ST. MARY'S.

If Sergeant Rivers was a natural king among my dusky soldiers, Corporal

Robert Sutton was the natural prime-minister. If not in all respects the

ablest, he was the wisest man in our ranks. As large, as powerful, and

as black as our good-looking Color-Sergeant, but more heavily built and

with less personal beauty, he had a more massive brain and a far more

meditative and systematic intellect. Not yet grounded even in the

spelling-book, his modes of thought were nevertheless strong, lucid, and

accurate; and he yearned and pined for intellectual companionship beyond

all ignorant men whom I have ever met. I believe that he would have

talked all day and all night, for days together, to any officer who

could instruct him, until his companion, at least, fell asleep

exhausted. His comprehension of the whole problem of Slavery was more

thorough and far-reaching than that of any Abolitionist, so far as its

social and military aspects went; in that direction I could teach him

nothing, and he taught me much. But it was his methods of thought which

always impressed me chiefly: superficial brilliancy he left to others,

and grasped at the solid truth. Of course his interest in the war and in

the regiment was unbounded; he did not take to drill with especial

readiness, but he was insatiable of it and grudged every moment of

relaxation. Indeed, he never had any such moments; his mind was at work

all the time, even when he was singing hymns, of which he had endless

store. He was not, however, one of our leading religionists, but his

moral code was solid and reliable, like his mental processes. Ignorant

as he was, the "years that bring the philosophic mind" had yet been his,

and most of my young officers seemed boys beside him. He was a Florida

man, and had been chiefly employed in lumbering and piloting on the St.

Mary's River, which divides Florida from Georgia. Down this stream he

had escaped in a "dug-out," and after thus finding the way, had returned

(as had not a few of my men, in other cases) to bring away wife and

child. "I wouldn't have leff my child, Cunnel," he said, with an

emphasis that sounded the depths of his strong nature. And up this same

river he was always imploring to be allowed to guide an expedition.

Many other men had rival propositions to urge, for they gained

self-confidence from drill and guard-duty, and were growing impatient of

inaction. "Ought to go to work, Sa,--don't believe in we lyin' in camp,

eatin' up the perwisions." Such were the quaint complaints, which I

heard with joy. Looking over my note-books of that period, I find them

filled with topographical memoranda, jotted down by a nickering candle,

from the evening talk of the men,--notes of vulnerable points along the

coast, charts of rivers, locations of pickets. I prized these

conversations not more for what I thus learned of the country than for

what I learned of the men. One could thus measure their various degrees

of accuracy and their average military instinct; and I must say that in

every respect, save the accurate estimate of distances, they stood the

test well. But no project took my fancy so much, after all, as that of

the delegate from the St. Mary's River.

The best peg on which to hang an expedition in the Department of the

South, in those days, was the promise of lumber. Dwelling in the very

land of Southern pine, the Department authorities had to send North for

it, at a vast expense. There was reported to be plenty in the enemy's

country, but somehow the colored soldiers were the only ones who had

been lucky enough to obtain any, thus far, and the supply brought in by

our men, after flooring the tents of the white regiments and our own,

was running low. An expedition of white troops, four companies, with

two steamers and two schooners, had lately returned empty-handed, after

a week's foraging; and now it was our turn. They said the mills were all

burned; but should we go up the St. Mary's, Corporal Sutton was prepared

to offer more lumber than we had transportation to carry. This made the

crowning charm of his suggestion. But there is never any danger of

erring on the side of secrecy, in a military department; and I resolved

to avoid all undue publicity for our plans, by not finally deciding on

any until we should get outside the bar. This was happily approved by my

superior officers, Major-General Hunter and Brigadier-General Saxton;

and I was accordingly permitted to take three steamers, with four

hundred and sixty-two officers and men, and two or three invited guests,

and go down the coast on my own responsibility. We were, in short, to

win our spurs; and if, as among the Araucanians, our spurs were made of

lumber, so much the better. The whole history of the Department of the

South had been defined as "a military picnic," and now we were to take

our share of the entertainment.

It seemed a pleasant share, when, after the usual vexations and delays,

we found ourselves gliding down the full waters of Beaufort River, the

three vessels having sailed at different hours, with orders to

rendezvous at St. Simon's Island, on the coast of Georgia. Until then,

the flag-ship, so to speak, was to be the "Ben De Ford," Captain

Hallett,--this being by far the largest vessel, and carrying most of the

men. Major Strong was in command upon the "John Adams," an army

gunboat, carrying a thirty-pound Parrott gun, two ten-pound Parrotts,

and an eight-inch howitzer Captain Trowbridge (since promoted

Lieutenant-Colonel of the regiment) had charge of the famous "Planter,"

brought away from the Rebels by Robert Small; she carried a ten-pound

Parrott gun, and two howitzers. The John Adams was our main reliance.

She was an old East-Boston ferry-boat, a "double-ender," admirable for

river-work, but unfit for sea-service. She drew seven feet of water; the

Planter drew only four; but the latter was very slow, and being obliged

to go to St. Simon's by an inner passage, would delay us from the

beginning. She delayed us so much, before the end, that we virtually

parted company, and her career was almost entirely separated from our

own.

From boyhood I have had a fancy for boats, and have seldom been without

a share, usually more or less fractional, in a rather indeterminate

number of punts and wherries. But when, for the first time, I found

myself at sea as Commodore of a fleet of armed steamers,--for even the

Ben De Ford boasted a six-pounder or so,--it seemed rather an unexpected

promotion. But it is a characteristic of army life, that one adapts

one's self, as coolly as in a dream, to the most novel responsibilities.

One sits on court-martial, for instance, and decides on the life of a

fellow-creature, without being asked any inconvenient questions as to

previous knowledge of Blackstone; and after such an experience, shall

one shrink from wrecking a steamer or two in the cause of the nation? So

I placidly accepted my naval establishment, as if it were a new form of

boat-club, and looked over the charts, balancing between one river and

another, as if deciding whether to pull up or down Lake Quinsigamond. If

military life ever contemplated the exercise of the virtue of humility

under any circumstances, this would perhaps have been a good opportunity

to begin its practice. But as the "Regulations" clearly contemplated

nothing of the kind, and as I had never met with any precedent which

looked in that direction, I had learned to check promptly all such weak

proclivities.

Captain Hallett proved the most frank and manly of sailors, and did

everything for our comfort. He was soon warm in his praises of the

demeanor of our men, which was very pleasant to hear, as this was the

first time that colored soldiers in any number had been conveyed on

board a transport, and I know of no place where a white volunteer

appears to so much disadvantage. His mind craves occupation, his body

is intensely uncomfortable, the daily emergency is not great enough to

call out his heroic qualities, and he is apt to be surly, discontented,

and impatient even of sanitary rules. The Southern black soldier, on the

other hand, is seldom sea-sick, (at least, such is my experience,) and,

if properly managed, is equally contented, whether idle or busy; he is,

moreover, so docile that all needful rules are executed with cheerful

acquiescence, and the quarters can therefore be kept clean and

wholesome. Very forlorn faces were soon visible among the officers in

the cabin, but I rarely saw such among the men.

Pleasant still seemed our enterprise, as we anchored at early morning in

the quiet waters of St. Simon's Sound, and saw the light fall softly on

the beach and the low bluffs, on the picturesque plantation-houses which

nestled there, and the graceful naval vessels that lay at anchor before

us. When we afterwards landed, the air had that peculiar Mediterranean

translucency which Southern islands wear; and the plantation we visited

had the loveliest tropical garden, though tangled and desolate, which I

have ever seen in the South. The deserted house was embowered in great

blossoming shrubs, and filled with hyacinthine odors, among which

predominated that of the little Chickasaw roses which everywhere bloomed

and trailed around. There were fig-trees and date-palms, crape-myrtles

and wax-myrtles, Mexican agaves and English ivies, japonicas, bananas,

oranges, lemons, oleanders, jonquils, great cactuses, and wild Florida

lilies. This was not the plantation which Mrs. Kemble has since made

historic, although that was on the same island; and I could not waste

much sentiment over it, for it had belonged to a Northern renegade,

Thomas Butler King. Yet I felt then, as I have felt a hundred times

since, an emotion of heart-sickness at this desecration of a

homestead,--and especially when, looking from a bare upper window of the

empty house upon a range of broad, flat, sunny roofs, such as children

love to play on, I thought how that place might have been loved by yet

innocent hearts, and I mourned anew the sacrilege of war.

I had visited the flag-ship Wabash ere we left Port-Royal Harbor, and

had obtained a very kind letter of introduction from Admiral Dupont,

that stately and courtly potentate, elegant as one's ideal French

marquis; and under these credentials I received polite attention from the

naval officers at St. Simon's,--Acting Volunteer Lieutenant Budd, U. S. N.,

of the gunboat Potomska, and Acting Master Moses, U. S. N., of

the barque Fernandina. They made valuable suggestions in regard to the

different rivers along the coast, and gave vivid descriptions of the

last previous trip up the St. Mary's, undertaken by Captain Stevens,

U. S. N., in the gunboat Ottawa, when he had to fight his way past

batteries at every bluff in descending the narrow and rapid stream. I

was warned that no resistance would be offered to the ascent, but only

to our return; and was further cautioned against the mistake, then

common, of underrating the courage of the Rebels. "It proved impossible

to dislodge those fellows from the banks," my informant said; "they had

dug rifle-pits, and swarmed like hornets, and when fairly silenced in

one direction, they were sure to open upon us from another." All this

sounded alarming, but it was nine months before that the event had

happened; and although nothing had gone up the river since, I was

satisfied that the resistance now to be encountered was very much

smaller. And something must be risked, anywhere.

We were delayed all that day in waiting for our consort, and improved

our time by verifying certain rumors about a quantity of new

railroad-iron which was said to be concealed in the abandoned Rebel

forts on St. Simon's and Jekyll Islands, and which would have much value

at Port Royal, if we could only unearth it. Some of our men had worked

upon these very batteries, so that they could easily guide us; and by

the additional discovery of a large flatboat we were enabled to go to

work in earnest upon the removal of the treasure. These iron bars,

surmounted by a dozen feet of sand, formed an invulnerable roof for the

magazines and bomb-proofs of the fort, and the men enjoyed demolishing

them far more than they had relished their construction. Though the day

was the 24th of January, 1863, the sun was very oppressive upon the

sands; but all were in the highest spirits, and worked with the greatest

zeal. The men seemed to regard these massive bars as their first

trophies; and if the rails had been wreathed with roses, they could not

have been got out in more holiday style. Nearly a hundred were obtained

that day, besides a quantity of five-inch plank with which to barricade

the very conspicuous pilot-houses of the John Adams.

Still another day we were delayed, and could still keep at this work,

not neglecting some foraging on the island, from which horses, cattle,

and agricultural implements were to be removed, and the few remaining

colored families transferred to Fernandina. I had now become quite

anxious about the missing steamboat, as the inner passage, by which

alone she could arrive, was exposed at certain points to fire from Rebel

batteries, and it would have been unpleasant to begin with a disaster. I

remember, that, as I stood on deck, in the still and misty evening,

listening with strained senses for some sound of approach, I heard a low

continuous noise from the distance, more wild and desolate than anything

in my memory can parallel. It came from within the vast girdle of mist,

and seemed like the cry of a myriad of lost souls upon the horizon's

verge; it was Dante become audible: and yet it was but the accumulated

cries of innumerable sea-fowl at the entrance of the outer bay.

Late that night the Planter arrived. We left St. Simon's on the

following morning, reached Fort Clinch by four o'clock, and there

transferring two hundred men to the very scanty quarters of the John

Adams, allowed the larger transport to go into Fernandina, while the two

other vessels were to ascend the St. Mary's River, unless (as proved

inevitable in the end) the defects in the boiler of the Planter should

oblige her to remain behind. That night I proposed to make a sort of

trial-trip up stream, as far as Township Landing, some fifteen miles,

there to pay our respects to Captain Clark's company of cavalry, whose

camp was reported to lie near by. This was included in Corporal Sutton's

programme, and seemed to me more inviting, and far more useful to the

men, than any amount of mere foraging. The thing really desirable

appeared to be to get them under fire as soon as possible, and to teach

them, by a few small successes, the application of what they had learned

in camp.

I had ascertained that the camp of this company lay five miles from the

landing, and was accessible by two roads, one of which was a

lumber-path, not commonly used, but which Corporal Sutton had helped to

construct, and along which he could easily guide us. The plan was to go

by night, surround the house and negro cabins at the landing, (to

prevent an alarm from being given,) then to take the side path, and if

all went well, to surprise the camp; but if they got notice of our

approach, through their pickets, we should, at worst, have a fight, in

which the best man must win.

The moon was bright, and the river swift, but easy of navigation thus

far. Just below Township I landed a small advance force, to surround the

houses silently. With them went Corporal Sutton; and when, after

rounding the point, I went on shore with a larger body of men, he met me

with a silent chuckle of delight, and with the information that there

was a negro in a neighboring cabin who had just come from the Rebel

camp, and could give the latest information. While he hunted up this

valuable auxiliary, I mustered my detachment, winnowing out the men who

had coughs, (not a few,) and sending them ignominiously on board again:

a process I had regularly to perform, during this first season of

catarrh, on all occasions where quiet was needed. The only exception

tolerated at this time was in the case of one man who offered a solemn

pledge, that, if unable to restrain his cough, he would lie down on the

ground, scrape a little hole, and cough into it unheard. The ingenuity

of this proposition was irresistible, and the eager patient was allowed

to pass muster.

It was after midnight when we set off upon our excursion. I had about a

hundred men, marching by the flank, with a small advanced guard, and

also a few flankers, where the ground permitted. I put my Florida

company at the head of the column, and had by my side Captain Metcalf,

an excellent officer, and Sergeant McIntyre, his first sergeant. We

plunged presently into pine woods, whose resinous smell I can still

remember. Corporal Sutton marched near me, with his captured negro

guide, whose first fear and sullenness had yielded to the magic news of

the President's Proclamation, then just issued, of which Governor Andrew

had sent me a large printed supply;--we seldom found men who could read

it, but they all seemed to feel more secure when they held it in their

hands. We marched on through the woods, with no sound but the peeping of

the frogs in a neighboring marsh, and the occasional yelping of a dog,

as we passed the hut of some "cracker." This yelping always made

Corporal Sutton uneasy: dogs are the detective officers of Slavery's

police.

We had halted once or twice, to close up the ranks, and had marched some

two miles, seeing and hearing nothing more. I had got all I could out of

our new guide, and was striding on, rapt in pleasing contemplation. All

had gone so smoothly that I had merely to fancy the rest as being

equally smooth. Already I fancied our little detachment bursting out of

the woods, in swift surprise, upon the Rebel quarters,--already the

opposing commander, after hastily firing a charge or two from his

revolver, (of course above my head,) had yielded at discretion, and was

gracefully tendering, in a stage attitude, his unavailing sword,--when

suddenly----

There was a trampling of feet among the advanced guard as they came

confusedly to a halt, and almost at the same instant a more ominous

sound, as of galloping horses in the path before us. The moonlight

outside the woods gave that dimness of atmosphere within which is more

bewildering than darkness, because the eyes cannot adapt themselves to

it so well. Yet I fancied, and others aver, that they saw the leader of

an approaching party, mounted on a white horse and reining up in the

pathway; others, again, declare that he drew a pistol from the holster

and took aim; others heard the words, "Charge in upon them! Surround

them!" But all this was confused by the opening rifle-shots of our

advanced guard, and, as clear observation was impossible, I made the men

fix their bayonets and kneel in the cover on each side the pathway, and

I saw with delight the brave fellows, with Sergeant McIntyre at their

head, settling down in the grass as coolly and warily as if wild turkeys

were the only game. Perhaps at the first shot, a man fell at my elbow. I

felt it no more than if a tree had fallen,--I was so busy watching my

own men and the enemy, and planning what to do next. Some of our

soldiers, misunderstanding the order, "Fix bayonets," were actually

_charging_ with them, dashing off into the dim woods, with nothing to

charge at but the vanishing tail of an imaginary horse,--for we could

really see nothing. This zeal I noted with pleasure, and also with

anxiety, as our greatest danger was from confusion and scattering; and

for infantry to pursue cavalry would be a novel enterprise. Captain

Metcalf stood by me well in keeping the men steady, as did

Assistant-Surgeon Minor, and Lieutenant, now Captain, Jackson. How the

men in the rear were behaving I could not tell,--not so coolly, I

afterwards found, because they were more entirely bewildered, supposing,

until the shots came, that the column had simply halted for a moment's

rest, as had been done once or twice before. They did not know who or

where their assailants might be, and the fall of the man beside me

created a hasty rumor that I was killed, so that it was on the whole an

alarming experience for them. They kept together very tolerably,

however, while our assailants, dividing, rode along on each side through

the open pine-barren, firing into our ranks, but mostly over the heads

of the men. My soldiers in turn fired rapidly,--too rapidly, being yet

beginners,--and it was evident, that, dim as it was, both sides had

opportunity to do some execution.

I could hardly tell whether the fight had lasted ten minutes or an hour,

when, as the enemy's fire had evidently ceased or slackened, I gave the

order to cease firing. But it was very difficult at first to make them

desist: the taste of gunpowder was too intoxicating. One of them was

heard to mutter, indignantly,--"Why de Cunnel order _Cease firing_, when

de Secesh blazin' away at de rate ob ten dollar a day?" Every incidental

occurrence seemed somehow to engrave itself upon my perceptions, without

interrupting the main course of thought. Thus I know, that, in one of

the pauses of the affair, there came wailing through the woods a cracked

female voice, as if calling back some stray husband who had run out to

join in the affray,--"John, John, are you going to leave me, John? Are

you going to let me and the children be killed, John?" I suppose the

poor thing's fears of gunpowder were very genuine, but it was such a

wailing squeak, and so infinitely ludicrous, and John was probably

ensconced so very safely in some hollow tree, that I could see some of

the men showing all their white teeth in the very midst of the fight.

But soon this sound, with all others, had ceased, and left us in

peaceful possession of the field.

I have made the more of this little affair because it was the first

stand-up fight in which my men had been engaged, though they had been

under fire, in an irregular way, in their small early expeditions. To me

personally the event was of the greatest value: it had given us all an

opportunity to test each other, and our abstract surmises were changed

into positive knowledge. Hereafter it was of small importance what

nonsense might be talked or written about colored troops; so long as

mine did not flinch, it made no difference to me. My brave young

officers, themselves mostly new to danger, viewed the matter much as I

did; and yet we were under bonds of life and death to form a correct

opinion, which was more than could be said of the Northern editors, and

our verdict was proportionately of greater value.

I was convinced from appearances that we had been victorious, so far,

though I could not suppose that this would be the last of it. We knew

neither the numbers of the enemy, nor their plans, nor their present

condition: whether they had surprised us or whether we had surprised

them was all a mystery. Corporal Sutton was urgent to go on and complete

the enterprise. All my impulses said the same thing; but then I had the

most explicit injunctions from General Saxton to risk as little as

possible in this first enterprise, because of the fatal effect on public

sentiment of even an honorable defeat. We had now an honorable victory,

so far as it went; the officers and men around me were in good spirits,

but the rest of the column might be nervous; and it seemed so important

to make the first fight an entire success, that I thought it wiser to

let well alone; nor have I ever changed this opinion. For one's self,

Montrose's verse may be well applied,--"To win or lose it all." But one

has no right to deal thus lightly with the fortunes of a race, and that

was the weight which I always felt as resting on our action. If my raw

infantry force had stood unflinching a night-surprise from "de hoss

cavalry," as they reverentially termed them, I felt that a good

beginning had been made. All hope of surprising the enemy's camp was now

at an end; I was willing and ready to fight the cavalry over again, but

it seemed wiser that we, not they, should select the ground.

Attending to the wounded, therefore, and making as we best could

stretchers for those who were to be carried, including the remains of

the man killed at the first discharge, (Private William Parsons of

Company G,) and others who seemed at the point of death, we marched

through the woods to the landing,--expecting at every moment to be

involved in another fight. This not occurring, I was more than ever

satisfied that we had won a victory; for it was obvious that a mounted

force would not allow a detachment of infantry to march two miles

through open woods by night without renewing the fight, unless they

themselves had suffered a good deal. On arrival at the landing, seeing

that there was to be no immediate affray, I sent most of the men on

board, and called for volunteers to remain on shore with me and hold the

plantation-house till morning. They eagerly offered; and I was glad to

see them, when posted as sentinels by Lieutenants Hyde and Jackson, who

stayed with me, pace their beats as steadily and challenge as coolly as

veterans, though of course there was some powder wasted on imaginary

foes. Greatly to my surprise, however, we had no other enemies to

encounter. We did not yet know that we had killed the first lieutenant

of the cavalry, and that our opponents had retreated to the woods in

dismay, without daring to return to their camp. This at least was the

account we heard from prisoners afterwards, and was evidently the tale

current in the neighborhood, though the statements published in Southern

newspapers did not correspond. Admitting the death of Lieutenant Jones,

the Tallahassee "Floridian" of February 14th stated that "Captain Clark,

finding the enemy in strong force, fell back with his command to camp,

and removed his ordnance and commissary and other stores, with twelve

negroes on their way to the enemy, captured on that day."

In the morning, my invaluable surgeon, Dr. Rogers, sent me his report of

killed and wounded; and I have been since permitted to make the

following extracts from his notes:--"One man killed instantly by ball

through the heart, and seven wounded, one of whom will die. Braver men

never lived. One man with two bullet-holes through the large muscles of

the shoulders and neck brought off from the scene of action, two miles

distant, two muskets; and not a murmur has escaped his lips. Another,

Robert Sutton, with three wounds,--one of which, being on the skull, may

cost him his life,--would not report himself till compelled to do so by

his officers. While dressing his wounds, he quietly talked of what they

had done, and of what they yet could do. To-day I have had the Colonel

_order_ him to obey me. He is perfectly quiet and cool, but takes this

whole affair with the religious bearing of a man who realizes that

freedom is sweeter than life. Yet another soldier did not report himself

at all, but remained all night on guard, and possibly I should not have

known of his having had a buck-shot in his shoulder, if some duty

requiring a sound shoulder had not been required of him to-day." This

last, it may be added, had persuaded a comrade to dig out the buck-shot,

for fear of being ordered on the sick-list. And one of those who were

carried to the vessel--a man wounded through the lungs--asked only if I

were safe, the contrary having been reported. An officer may be pardoned

some enthusiasm for such men as these.

The anxious night having passed away without an attack, another problem

opened with the morning. For the first time, my officers and men found

themselves in possession of an enemy's abode; and though there was but

little temptation to plunder, I knew that I must here begin to draw the

line. I had long since resolved to prohibit absolutely all

indiscriminate pilfering and wanton outrage, and to allow nothing to be

taken or destroyed but by proper authority. The men, to my great

satisfaction, entered into this view at once, and so did (perhaps a

shade less readily, in some cases) the officers. The greatest trouble

was with the steamboat-hands, and I resolved to let them go ashore as

little as possible. Most articles of furniture were already, however,

before our visit, gone from the plantation-house, which was now used

only as a picket-station. The only valuable article was a piano-forte,

for which a regular packing-box lay invitingly ready outside. I had made

up my mind to burn all picket-stations, and all villages from which I

should be covertly attacked, and nothing else; and as this house was

destined to the flames, I should have left the piano in it, but for the

seductions of that box. With such a receptacle all ready, even to the

cover, it would have seemed like flying in the face of Providence not to

put the piano in. I ordered it removed, therefore, and afterwards

presented it to the school for colored children at Fernandina. This I

mention because it was the only article of property I ever took or

knowingly suffered to be taken, in the enemy's country, save for

legitimate military uses, from first to last; nor would I have taken

this, but for the thought of the school, and, as aforesaid, the

temptation of the box. If any other officer has been more rigid, with

equal opportunities, let him cast the first stone.

I think the zest with which the men finally set fire to the house at my

order was enhanced by this previous abstemiousness; but there is a

fearful fascination in the use of fire, which every child knows in the

abstract, and which I found to hold true in the practice. On our way

down river we had opportunity to test this again.

The ruined town of St. Mary's had at that time a bad reputation, among

both naval and military men. Lying but a short distance above

Fernandina, on the Georgia side, it was occasionally visited by our

gunboats. I was informed that the only residents of the town were three

old women, who were apparently kept there as spies,--that, on our

approach, the aged crones would come out and wave white

handkerchiefs,--that they would receive us hospitably, profess to be

profoundly loyal, and exhibit a portrait of Washington,--that they would

solemnly assure us that no Rebel pickets had been there for many

weeks,--but that in the adjoining yard we should find fresh

horse-tracks, and that we should be fired upon by guerrillas the moment

we left the wharf. My officers had been much excited by these tales; and

I had assured them, that, if this programme were literally carried out,

we would straightway return and burn the town, or what was left of it,

for our share. It was essential to show my officers and men, that, while

rigid against irregular outrage, we could still be inexorable against

the enemy.

We had previously planned to stop at this town, on our way down river,

for some valuable lumber which we had espied on a wharf; and gliding

down the swift current, shelling a few bluffs as we passed, we soon

reached it. Punctual as the figures in a panorama, appeared the old

ladies with their white handkerchiefs. Taking possession of the town,

much of which had previously been destroyed by the gunboats, and

stationing the color-guard, to their infinite delight, in the cupola of

the most conspicuous house, I deployed skirmishers along the exposed

suburb, and set a detail of men at work on the lumber. After a stately

and decorous interview with the queens of society at St. Mary's,--is it

Scott who says that nothing improves the manners like piracy?--I

peacefully withdrew the men when the work was done. There were faces of

disappointment among the officers,--for all felt a spirit of mischief,

after the last night's adventure,--when, just as we had fairly swung out

into the stream and were under way, there came, like the sudden burst of

a tropical tornado, a regular little hailstorm of bullets into the open

end of the boat, driving every gunner in an instant from his post, and

surprising even those who were looking to be surprised. The shock was

but for a second; and though the bullets had pattered precisely like the

sound of hail upon the iron cannon, yet nobody was hurt. With very

respectable promptness, order was restored, our own shells were flying

into the woods from which the attack proceeded, and we were steaming up

to the wharf again, according to promise.

Who shall describe the theatrical attitudes assumed by the old ladies as

they reappeared at the front door--being luckily out of direct

range--and set the handkerchiefs in wilder motion than ever? They

brandished them, they twirled them after the manner of the domestic mop,

they clasped their hands, handkerchiefs included. Meanwhile their

friends in the wood popped away steadily at us, with small effect; and

occasionally an invisible field-piece thundered feebly from another

quarter, with equally invisible results. Reaching the wharf, one

company, under Lieutenant (now Captain) Danilson, was promptly deployed

in search of our assailants, who soon grew silent. Not so the old

ladies, when I announced to them my purpose, and added, with extreme

regret, that, as the wind was high, I should burn only that half of the

town which lay to leeward of their house, which did not, after all,

amount to much. Between gratitude for this degree of mercy and imploring

appeals for greater, the treacherous old ladies manoeuvred with

clasped hands and demonstrative handkerchiefs around me, impairing the

effect of their eloquence by constantly addressing me as "Mr. Captain";

for I have observed, that, while the sternest officer is greatly

propitiated by attributing to him a rank a little higher than his own,

yet no one is ever mollified by an error in the opposite direction. I

tried, however, to disregard such low considerations, and to strike the

correct mean betwixt the sublime patriot and the unsanctified

incendiary, while I could find no refuge from weak contrition save in

greater and greater depths of courtesy; and so melodramatic became our

interview that some of the soldiers still maintain that "dem dar ole

Secesh women been a-gwine for kiss de Cunnel," before we ended. But of

this monstrous accusation I wish to register an explicit denial, once

for all.

Dropping down to Fernandina unmolested after this affair, we were kindly

received by the military and naval commanders,--Colonel Hawley, of the

Seventh Connecticut, (now Brigadier-General Hawley,) and

Lieutenant-Commander Hughes, U. S. N., of the gunboat Mohawk. It turned

out very opportunely that both of these officers had special errands to

suggest still farther up the St. Mary's, and precisely in the region

where I wished to go. Colonel Hawley showed me a letter from the War

Department, requesting him to ascertain the possibility of obtaining a

supply of brick for Fort Clinch from the brickyard which had furnished

the original materials, but which had not been visited since the

perilous river-trip of the Ottawa. Lieutenant Hughes wished to obtain

information for the Admiral respecting a Rebel steamer--the Berosa--said

to be lying somewhere up the river, and awaiting her chance to run the

blockade. I jumped at the opportunity. Berosa and brickyard,--both were

near Woodstock, the former home of Corporal Sutton; he was ready and

eager to pilot us up the river; the moon would be just right that

evening, setting at 3h. 19m. A. M.; and our boat was precisely the one

to undertake the expedition. Its double-headed shape was just what was

needed in that swift and crooked stream; the exposed pilot-houses had

been tolerably barricaded with the thick planks from St. Simon's; and we

further obtained some sand-bags from Fort Clinch, through the aid of

Captain Sears, the officer in charge, who had originally suggested the

expedition after brick. In return for this aid, the Planter was sent

back to the wharf at St. Mary's, to bring away a considerable supply of

the same precious article, which we had observed near the wharf.

Meanwhile the John Adams was coaling from naval supplies, through the

kindness of Lieutenant Hughes; and the Ben De Ford was taking in the

lumber which we had yesterday brought down. It was a great

disappointment to be unable to take the latter vessel up the river; but

I was unwillingly convinced, that, though the depth of water might be

sufficient, yet her length would be unmanageable in the swift current

and sharp turns. The Planter must also be sent on a separate cruise, as

her weak and disabled machinery made her useless for my purpose. Two

hundred men were therefore transferred, as before, to the narrow hold of

the John Adams, in addition to the company permanently stationed on

board to work the guns. At seven o'clock on the evening of January 29th,

beneath a lovely moon, we steamed up the river.

Never shall I forget the mystery and excitement of that night. I know

nothing in life more fascinating than the nocturnal ascent of an unknown

river, leading far into an enemy's country, where one glides in the dim

moonlight between dark hills and meadows, each turn of the channel

making it seem like an inland lake, and cutting you off as by a barrier

from all behind,--with no sign of human life, but an occasional

picket-fire left glimmering beneath the bank, or the yelp of a dog from

some low-lying plantation. On such occasions, every nerve is strained to

its utmost tension; all dreams of romance appear to promise immediate

fulfilment; all lights on board the vessel are obscured, loud voices are

hushed; you fancy a thousand men on shore, and yet see nothing; the

lonely river, unaccustomed to furrowing keels, lapses by the vessel with

a treacherous sound; and all the senses are merged in a sort of anxious

trance. Three times I have had in full perfection this fascinating

experience; but that night was the first, and its zest was the keenest.

It will come back to me in dreams, if I live a thousand years.

I feared no attack during our ascent,--that danger was for our return;

but I feared the intricate navigation of the river, though I did not

fully know, till the actual experience, how dangerous it was. We passed

without trouble far above the scene of our first fight,--the Battle of

the Hundred Pines, as my officers had baptized it; and ever, as we

ascended, the banks grew steeper, the current swifter, the channel more

tortuous and more incumbered with projecting branches and drifting wood.

No piloting less skilful than that of Corporal Sutton and his mate,

James Bezzard, could have carried us through, I thought; and no

side-wheel steamer less strong than a ferry-boat could have borne the

crash and force with which we struck the wooded banks of the river. But

the powerful paddles, built to break the Northern ice, could crush the

Southern pine as well; and we came safely out of entanglements that at

first seemed formidable. We had the tide with us, which makes steering

far more difficult; and, in the sharp angles of the river, there was

often no resource but to run the bow boldly on shore, let the stern

swing round, and then reverse the motion. As the reversing machinery was

generally out of order, the engineer stupid or frightened, and the

captain excited, this involved moments of tolerably concentrated

anxiety. Eight times we grounded in the upper waters, and once lay

aground for half an hour; but at last we dropped anchor before the

little town of Woodstock, after moonset and an hour before daybreak,

just as I had planned, and so quietly that scarcely a dog barked, and

not a soul in the town, as we afterwards found, knew of our arrival.

As silently as possible, the great flatboat which we had brought from

St. Simon's was filled with men. Major Strong was sent on shore with two

companies,--those of Captain James and Captain Metcalf,--with

instructions to surround the town quietly, allow no one to leave it,

molest no one, and hold as temporary prisoners every man whom he found.

I watched them push off into the darkness, got the remaining force ready

to land, and then paced the deck for an hour in silent watchfulness,

waiting for rifle-shots. Not a sound came from the shore, save the

barking of dogs and the morning crow of cocks; the time seemed

interminable; but when daylight came, I landed, and found a pair of

scarlet trousers pacing on their beat before every house in the village,

and a small squad of prisoners, stunted and forlorn as Falstaff's ragged

regiment, already in hand. I observed with delight the good demeanor of

my men towards these forlorn Anglo-Saxons, and towards the more

tumultuous women. Even one soldier, who threatened to throw an old

termagant into the river, took care to append the courteous epithet

"Madam."

I took a survey of the premises. The chief house, a pretty one with

picturesque outbuildings, was that of Mrs. A., who owned the mills and

lumber-wharves adjoining. The wealth of these wharves had not been

exaggerated. There was lumber enough to freight half a dozen steamers,

and I half regretted that I had agreed to take down a freight of bricks

instead. Further researches made me grateful that I had already

explained to my men the difference between public foraging and private

plunder. Along the river-bank I found building after building crowded

with costly furniture, all neatly packed, just as it was sent up from

St. Mary's when that town was abandoned. Pianos were a drug; china,

glass-ware, mahogany, pictures, all were here. And here were my men, who

knew that their own labor had earned for their masters these luxuries,

or such as these; their own wives and children were still sleeping on

the floor, perhaps, at Beaufort or Fernandina; and yet they submitted,

almost without a murmur, to the enforced abstinence. Bed and bedding for

our hospitals they might take from those store-rooms,--such as the

surgeon selected,--also an old flag which we found in a corner, and an

old field piece, (which the regiment still possesses,)--but after this

the doors were closed and left unmolested. It cost a struggle to some of

the men, whose wives were destitute, I know; but their pride was very

easily touched, and when this abstinence was once recognized as a rule,

they claimed it as an honor, in this and all succeeding expeditions. I

flatter myself, that, if they had once been set upon wholesale

plundering, they would have done it as thoroughly as their betters; but

I have always been infinitely grateful, both for the credit and for the

discipline of the regiment,--as well as for the men's subsequent

lives,--that the opposite method was adopted.

When the morning was a little advanced, I called on Mrs. A., who

received me in quite a stately way at her own door with "To what am I

indebted for the honor of this visit, Sir?" The foreign name of the

family, and the tropical look of the buildings, made it seem (as,

indeed, did all the rest of the adventure) like a chapter out of "Amyas

Leigh"; but as I had happened to hear that the lady herself was a

Philadelphian and her deceased husband a New-Yorker, I could not feel

even that modicum of reverence due to sincere Southerners. However, I

wished to present my credentials; so, calling up my companion, I said

that I believed she had been previously acquainted with Corporal Robert

Sutton? I never saw a finer bit of unutterable indignation than came

over the face of my hostess, as she slowly recognized him. She drew

herself up, and dropped out the monosyllables of her answer as if they

were so many drops of nitric acid. "Ah," quoth my lady, "_we_ called him

Bob!"

It was a group for a painter. The whole drama of the war seemed to

reverse itself in an instant, and my tall, well-dressed, imposing,

philosophic Corporal dropped down the immeasurable depth into a mere

plantation "Bob" again. So at least in my imagination; not to that

personage himself. Too essentially dignified in his nature to be moved

by words where substantial realities were in question, he simply turned

from the lady, touched his hat to me, and asked if I would wish to see

the slave-jail, as he had the keys in his possession.

If he fancied that I was in danger of being overcome by blandishments

and needed to be recalled to realities, it was a master-stroke.

I must say, that, when the door of that villainous edifice was thrown

open before me, I felt glad that my main interview with its lady

proprietor had passed before I saw it. It was a small building, like a

Northern corn-barn, and seemed to have as prominent and as legitimate a

place among the outbuildings of the establishment. In the middle of the

floor was a large staple with a rusty chain, like an ox-chain, for

fastening a victim down. When the door had been opened after the death

of the late proprietor, my informant said a man was found padlocked in

that chain. We found also three pairs of stocks of various construction,

two of which had smaller as well as larger holes, evidently for the feet

of women or children. In a building near by we found something far more

complicated, which was perfectly unintelligible till the men explained

all its parts: a machine so contrived that a person once imprisoned in

it could neither sit, stand, nor lie, but must support the body half

raised, in a position scarcely endurable. I have since bitterly

reproached myself for leaving this piece of ingenuity behind; but it

would have cost much labor to remove it, and to bring away the other

trophies seemed then enough. I remember the unutterable loathing with

which I leaned against the door of that prison-house; I had thought

myself seasoned to any conceivable horrors of Slavery, but it seemed as

if the visible presence of that den of sin would choke me. Of course it

would have been burned to the ground by us, but that this would have

involved the sacrifice of every other building and all the piles of

lumber, and for the moment it seemed as if the sacrifice would be

righteous. But I forbore, and only took as trophies the instruments of

torture and the keys of the jail.

We found but few colored people in this vicinity; some we brought away

with us, and an old man and woman preferred to remain. All the white

males whom we found I took as hostages, in order to shield us, if

possible, from attack on our way down river, explaining to them that

they would be put on shore when the dangerous points were passed. I knew

that their wives could easily send notice of this fact to the Rebel

forces along the river. My hostages were a forlorn-looking set of

"crackers," far inferior to our soldiers in _physique_, and yet quite

equal, the latter declared, to the average material of the Southern

armies. None were in uniform, but this proved nothing as to their being

soldiers. One of them, a mere boy, was captured at his own door, with

gun in hand. It was a fowling-piece, which he used only, as his mother

plaintively assured me, "to shoot little birds with." As the guileless

youth had for this purpose loaded the gun with eighteen buck-shot, we

thought it justifiable to confiscate both the weapon and the owner, in

mercy to the birds.

We took from this place, for the use of the army, a flock of some thirty

sheep, forty bushels of rice; some other provisions, tools, oars, and a

little lumber, leaving all possible space for the bricks which we

expected to obtain just below. I should have gone farther up the river,

but for a dangerous boom which kept back a great number of logs in a

large brook that here fell into the St. Mary's; the stream ran with

force, and if the Rebels had wit enough to do it, they might in ten

minutes so choke the river with drift-wood as infinitely to enhance our

troubles. So we dropped down stream a mile or two, found the very

brickyard from which Fort Clinch had been constructed,--still stored

with bricks, and seemingly unprotected. Here Sergeant Rivers again

planted his standard, and the men toiled eagerly, for several hours, in

loading our boat to the utmost with the bricks. Meanwhile we questioned

black and white witnesses, and learned for the first time that the

Rebels admitted a repulse at Township Landing, and that Lieutenant Jones

and ten of their number were killed,--though this I fancy to have been

an exaggeration. They also declared that the mysterious steamer Berosa

was lying at the head of the river, but was a broken-down and worthless

affair, and would never get to sea. The result has since proved this;

for the vessel subsequently ran the blockade and foundered near shore,

the crew barely escaping with their lives. I had the pleasure, as it

happened, of being the first person to forward this information to

Admiral Dupont, when it came through the pickets, many months

after,--thus concluding my report on the Berosa.

Before the work at the yard was over, the pickets reported mounted men

in the woods near by, as had previously been the report at Woodstock.

This admonished us to lose no time; and as we left the wharf, immediate

arrangements were made to have the gun-crews all in readiness, and to

keep the rest of the men below, since their musketry would be of little

use now, and I did not propose to risk a life unnecessarily. The chief

obstacle to this was their own eagerness; penned down on one side, they

popped up on the other; their officers, too, were eager to see what was

going on, and were almost as hard to cork down as the men. Add to this,

that the vessel was now very crowded, and that I had to be chiefly on

the hurricane-deck with the pilots. Captain Clifton, master of the

vessel, was brave to excess, and as much excited as the men; he could no

more be kept in the little pilot-house than they below; and when we had

passed one or two bluffs, with no sign of an enemy, he grew more and

more irrepressible, and exposed himself conspicuously on the upper deck.

Perhaps we all were a little lulled by apparent safety; for myself, I

lay down for a moment on a settee in a state-room, having been on my

feet, almost without cessation, for twenty-four hours.

Suddenly there swept down from a bluff above us, on the Georgia side, a

mingling of shout and roar and rattle as of a tornado let loose; and as

a storm of bullets came pelting against the sides of the vessel and

through a window, there went up a shrill answering shout from our own

men. It took but an instant for me to reach the gun-deck. After all my

efforts, the men had swarmed once more from below, and already, crowding

at both ends of the boat, were loading and firing with inconceivable

rapidity, shouting to each other, "Neber gib it up!" and of course

having no steady aim, as the vessel glided and whirled in the swift

current. Meanwhile the officers in charge of the large guns had their

crews in order, and our shells began to fly over the bluffs, which, as

we now saw, should have been shelled in advance, only that we had to

economize ammunition. The other soldiers I drove below, almost by main

force, with the aid of their officers, who behaved exceedingly well,

giving the men leave to fire from the open port-holes which lined the

lower deck, almost at the water's level. In the very midst of the

_melee_, Major Strong came from the upper deck, with a face of horror,

and whispered to me,--"Captain Clifton was killed at the first shot by

my side."

If he had said that the vessel was on fire, the shock would hardly have

been greater. Of course, the military commander on board a steamer is

almost as helpless as an unarmed man, so far as the risks of water go. A

seaman must command there. In the hazardous voyage of last night, I had

learned, though unjustly, to distrust every official on board the

steamboat except this excitable, brave, warm-hearted sailor; and now,

among these added dangers, to lose him! The responsibility for his life

also thrilled me; he was not among my soldiers, and yet he was killed. I

thought of his wife and children, of whom he had spoken; but one learns

to think rapidly in war, and, cautioning the Major to silence, I went up

to the hurricane-deck and drew in the helpless body, that it should be

safe from further desecration, and then looked to see where we were.

We were now gliding past a safe reach of marsh, while our assailants

were riding by cross-paths to attack us at the next bluff. It was Reed's

Bluff where we were first attacked, and Scrubby Bluff, I think, was

next. They were shelled in advance, but swarmed manfully to the banks

again as we swept round one of the sharp angles of the stream beneath

their fire. My men were now pretty well imprisoned below in the hot and

crowded hold, and actually fought each other, the officers afterwards

said, for places at the open port-holes, from which to aim. Others

implored to be landed, exclaiming that they "supposed de Cunnel knew

best," but it was "mighty mean" to be shut up down below, when they

might be "fightin' de Secesh _in de clar field_." This clear field, and

no favor, was what they thenceforward sighed for. But in such difficult

navigation it would have been madness to think of landing, although one

daring Rebel actually sprang upon the large boat which we towed astern,

where he was shot down by one of our sergeants. This boat was soon after

swamped and abandoned, then taken and repaired by the Rebels at a later

date, and finally, by a piece of dramatic completeness, was seized by a

party of fugitive slaves, who escaped in it to our lines, and some of

whom enlisted in my own regiment.

It has always been rather a mystery to me why the Rebels did not fell a

few trees across the stream at some of the many sharp angles where we

might so easily have been thus imprisoned. This, however, they

did not attempt, and with the skilful pilotage of our trusty

Corporal--philosophic as Socrates through all the din, and occasionally

relieving his mind by taking a shot with his rifle through the high

port-holes of the pilot-house--we glided safely on. The steamer did not

ground once on the descent, and the mate in command, Mr. Smith, did his

duty very well. The plank sheathing of the pilot-house was penetrated by

few bullets, though struck by so many outside that it was visited as a

curiosity after our return; and even among the gun-crews, though they

had no protection, not a man was hurt. As we approached some wooded

bluff, usually on the Georgia side, we could see galloping along the

hillside what seemed a regiment of mounted riflemen, and could see our

shell scatter them ere we approached. Shelling did not, however, prevent

a rather fierce fusilade from our old friends of Captain Clark's company

at Waterman's Bluff, near Township Landing; but even this did no serious

damage, and this was the last.

It was of course impossible, while thus running the gauntlet, to put our

hostages ashore, and I could only explain to them that they must thank

their own friends for their inevitable detention. I was by no means

proud of their forlorn appearance, and besought Colonel Hawley to take

them off my hands; but he was sending no flags of truce at that time,

and liked their looks no better than I did. So I took them to Port

Royal, where they were afterwards sent safely across the lines. Our men

were pleased at taking them back with us, as they had already said,

regretfully, "S'pose we leave dem Secesh at Fernandina, General Saxby

won't see 'em,"--as if they were some new natural curiosity, which

indeed they were. One soldier further suggested the expediency of

keeping them permanently in camp, to be used as marks for the guns of

the relieved guard every morning. But this was rather an ebullition of

fancy than a sober proposition.

Against these levities I must put a piece of more tragic eloquence,

which I took down by night on the steamer's deck from the thrilling

harangue of Corporal Adam Ashton, one of our most gifted prophets, whose

influence over the men was unbounded. "When I heard," he said "de

bombshell a-screamin' troo de woods like de Judgment Day, I said to

myself, 'If my head was took off to-night, dey couldn't put my soul in

de torments, perceps [except] God was my enemy!' And when de

rifle-bullets came whizzin' across de deck, I cried aloud, 'God help my

congregation! Boys, load and fire!'"

I must pass briefly over the few remaining days of our cruise. At

Fernandina we met the Planter, which had been successful on her separate

expedition, and had destroyed extensive salt-works at Crooked River,

under charge of the energetic Captain Trowbridge, efficiently aided by

Captain Rogers. Our commodities being in part delivered at Fernandina,

our decks being full, coal nearly out, and time up, we called once more

at St. Simon's Sound, bringing away the remainder of our railroad-iron,

with some which the naval officers had previously disinterred, and then

steamed back to Beaufort. Arriving there at sunrise, (February 2, 1863,)

I made my way with Dr. Rogers to General Saxton's bed-room, and laid

before him the keys and shackles of the slave-prison, with my report of

the good conduct of the men,--as Dr. Rogers remarked, a message from

heaven and another from hell.

Slight as this expedition now seems among the vast events of the war,

the future student of the newspapers of that day will find that it

occupied no little space in their columns, so intense was the interest

which then attached to the novel experiment of employing black troops.

So obvious, too, was the value, during this raid, of their local

knowledge and their enthusiasm, that it was impossible not to find in

its successes new suggestions for the war. Certainly I would not have

consented to repeat the enterprise with the bravest white troops,

leaving Corporal Sutton and his mates behind, for I should have expected

to fail. For a year after our raid the Upper St. Mary's remained

unvisited, till in 1864 the large force with which we held Florida

secured peace upon its banks; then Mrs. A. took the oath of allegiance,

the Government bought her remaining lumber, and the John Adams again

ascended with a detachment of my men under Lieutenant Parker, and

brought a portion of it to Fernandina. By a strange turn of fortune,

Corporal Sutton (now Sergeant) was at this time in jail at Hilton Head,

under sentence of court-martial for an alleged act of mutiny,--an affair

in which the general voice of our officers sustained him and condemned

his accusers, so that he soon received a full pardon, and was restored

in honor to his place in the regiment, which he has ever since held.

Nothing can ever exaggerate the fascinations of war, whether on the

largest or smallest scale. When we settled down into camp-life again, it

seemed like a butterfly's folding its wings to re-enter the chrysalis.

None of us could listen to the crack of a gun without recalling

instantly the sharp shots that spilled down from the bluffs of the St.

Mary's, or hear a sudden trampling of horsemen by night without

recalling the sounds which startled us on the Field of the Hundred

Pines. The memory of our raid was preserved in the camp by many legends

of adventure, growing vaster and more incredible as time wore on,--and

by the morning appeals to the surgeon of some veteran invalids, who

could now cut off all reproofs and suspicions with "Doctor, I's been a

sickly pusson eber since de _expeditions_." But to me the most vivid

remembrancer was the flock of sheep which we had "lifted." The Post

Quartermaster discreetly gave us the charge of them, and they filled a

gap in the landscape and in the larder,--which last had before presented

one unvaried round of impenetrable beef. Mr. Obadiah Oldbuck, when he

decided to adopt a pastoral life, and assumed the provisional name of

Thyrsis, never looked upon his flocks and herds with more unalloyed

contentment than I upon that fleecy family. I had been familiar, in

Kansas, with the metaphor by which the sentiments of an owner were

credited to his property, and had heard of a pro-slavery colt and an

anti-slavery cow. The fact that these sheep were but recently converted

from "Secesh" sentiments was their crowning charm. Methought they

frisked and fattened in the joy of their deliverance from the shadow of

Mrs. A.'s slave-jail, and gladly contemplated translation into

mutton-broth for sick or wounded soldiers. The very slaves who once,

perchance, were sold at auction with yon aged patriarch of the flock,

had now asserted their humanity and would devour him as hospital

rations. Meanwhile our shepherd bore a sharp bayonet without a crook,

and I felt myself a peer of Ulysses and Rob Roy,--those sheep-stealers

of less elevated aims,--when I met in my daily rides these wandering

trophies of our wider wanderings.

The Atlantic Monthly, Volume 15, No. 90, April, 1865 A Magazine of Literature, Art, and Politics · 第 10 / 42 题