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CAPE COD
and ALL the
PILGRIM LAND
A Monthly Magazine Devoted to the Interests of
Southeastern Massachusetts
Entered as Second Class Matter at the Post Office at
HYANNIS, MASS.
JUNE 1922
Volume 6, Number 4
PUBLISHED BY
THE CAPE COD PUBLISHING CO., Inc.
HYANNIS, MASS
Lemuel C. Hall, Editor Charles L Gifford, Business Mgr
* * * * *
[Illustration: Frontispiece--DANCING ON THE SANDS]
CONTENTS
FROM THE PUBLISHER'S DESK
FRONTISPIECE--Dancing on the Sands
THE PORTAL OF THE CAPE--L.C. Hall
WHERE SHALL I SPEND MY VACATION
WELLFLEET--Edward L. Smith
A SQUEAK FOR A LIFE--P.T. Chamberlain
CAPE TROUT STREAMS.
OCEAN TRAVELS--Emma M. Pray
EDITORIALS
"CONCLUSIVE EVIDENCE"--E.M. Chase
"BY HEART"--Lillian E. Andrews.
"BY TELEPHONE"--E.M. Chase.
FALMOUTH INNER HARBOR
"BASS RIVER"--Arethusa
CAPE COD NOTES
A DELAYED LETTER
A MILLION QUARTS OF STRAWBERRIES
* * * * *
FOR AUTO TOURISTS
The following tourist routes from Boston to points in Pilgrim Land
will be found useful to autoists:
BOSTON TO BUZZARDS BAY VIA BROCKTON
0.0 Park Square, westerly on Boylston Street, bearing left on
Huntington Avenue at Copley Square.
1.1 Turn right on Massachusetts Avenue and bear left on Westland
Avenue.
1.4 Pass through entrance to Fenway, curving left and bearing right
at Y.
1.6 Y, after crossing stone bridge, keep left.
1.9 Y, bear left across stone bridge; turning right and crossing
Brookline Avenue.
2.9 Y, bear slightly left, crossing Brookline Avenue.
3.3 Cross Huntington Avenue and enter Jamaica Way.
4.4 Jamaica Pond on right; bear right on Pond Street, but at Y keep
left on Jamaica Way.
5.9 After passing Arnold Arboretum on right, jog right and left into
Morton Street, passing under railroad and continuing on Morton Street,
to
6.3 Y, keep right on Morton Street.
7.9 Turn right on Blue Hill Avenue and follow trolley to
9.1 Mattapan Square. Straight ahead over bridge, bearing left on
Blue Hills Parkway.
9.5 Y, turn left and follow trolley on Brook Road.
10.2 Junction of five roads, turn right on White Street.
10.5 Through five corners, running into Reedsdale Road.
11.1 Four corners, turn right on Randolph Avenue, with trolleys.
17.4 Randolph, five corners, bear right with trolley.
19.5 Avon. Pass monument on left, follow trolley.
23.4 Brockton. Straight ahead on Main Street.
27.8 W. Bridgewater. Turn left at monument, following trolley.
30.5 Bridgewater. Straight through.
39.1 Middleboro. Turn left with trolley.
50.6 Tremont. Follow trolley.
54.4 Wareham. Straight ahead, turn left with trolley over bridge.
57.1 E. Wareham. Turn right at garage; cross railroad at Onset
Junction; follow trolley.
58.4 Onset. Follow trolley.
61.1 Buzzards Bay.
BUZZARDS BAY TO PROVINCETOWN
0.0 Buzzards Bay station on right; straight ahead, avoiding left-hand
roads.
5.4 Three corners, turn right over canal bridge.
5.7 Sagamore. Straight ahead, turning left at end of road.
8.0 Sandwich. Curve left.
19.4 Barnstable. Straight ahead.
22.9 Yarmouthport. Straight ahead.
27.4 Dennis. Straight ahead.
32.8 Brewster. Straight ahead.
39.7 Orleans. Straight ahead.
43.5 Eastham. Straight ahead.
52.7 Wellfleet. Straight ahead around curves.
57.6 Truro. Straight ahead.
67.5 Provincetown.
BUZZARDS BAY TO PROVINCETOWN VIA FALMOUTH
0.0 Buzzards Bay. Railroad station on right; go straight ahead.
0.7 Turn right over bridge across canal; turn sharp right at store.
3.5 Monument Beach. Turn left, passing railroad station; straight
ahead.
16.4 Falmouth. Turn left at park.
26.2 Mashpee. Straight through.
32.7 Marston Mills. Bear right up grade.
34.0 For Cotuit, bear right.
35.3 Osterville. Y, bear left through irregular four corners.
37.1 Centerville. Straight ahead, but at end of road, turn left.
42.0 Hyannis. Straight ahead.
47.1 S. Yarmouth. Turn sharp right and cross bridge.
48.5 W. Dennis. Straight ahead, bearing right at Y.
51.0 W. Harwich. Straight ahead.
53.8 Harwichport. Straight ahead.
60.4 Chatham. Just before reaching village, turn left at white church.
69.1 Orleans. Bear right at irregular four corners and follow macadam
road to
96.9 Provincetown.
SAGAMORE TO PLYMOUTH
Keep straight ahead after crossing canal bridge. Good road all the
way to Plymouth.
BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH
0.0 Boston. Park Square. Follow route given above to Mattapan Square.
9.1 Mattapan Square. Straight ahead over bridge, bearing left on
Blue Hills Parkway. Y, turn left and follow trolley on Brook Road,
cross Central Avenue and bear left on Brook Road. End of Brook Road,
curve left to Adams Street.
12.4 E. Milton. Cross railroad and keep straight ahead.
14.7 Quincy. Washington Square, curve left with trolley.
21.1 Hingham. Railroad station on right; straight ahead with trolley
to Y at top of grade, bear right on Summer Street, leaving trolley.
26.1 Cohasset. Railroad station on right; four corner, straight ahead.
27.9 N. Scituate. Cross railroad; straight on to
38.2 Marshfield. Turn right on Moraine Street.
46.8 Kingston. Cross railroad, follow trolley to
51.2 Plymouth.
"Y" means the fork of two roads.
* * * * *
NOTE--The map plainly shows the routes that can be taken by
automobiles on the Cape. The red lines show state highways and
macadam roads. Any road marked in red can be safely taken. Patronize
the garages, hotels and stores on this sheet. THEY ARE RELIABLE AND
GOOD.
[Transcriber's Note: Map missing from original text.]
* * * * *
FROM THE PUBLISHERS' DESK
THE MAN WHO WANTS TO DO IT ALL
You're to blame if your mind is wasting time. It does the work you
select.
Fill your head with trifles and there'll be no space for big things.
Hack ideas occupy as much room as thoroughbred inspirations.
Unimportant details frequently require as much attention as
constructive plans.
Proportion is the sixth sense and without it the other five are
practically useless.
Apply your days discreetly--don't do anything which you can hire
somebody else to execute for you. Concentrate on paying propositions.
Aside from the arts and fine crafts, nobody ever got far
single-handed.
Delegate the lesser duties to assistants. Let them make an occasional
mistake. If you're saving your thoughts for the responsibility of
management a few inaccuracies in the organization won't amount to
much.
Differentiate between incidents and issues.
One can't lead and follow simultaneously.
Rely on subordinates. You can't be the whole works.
As the head of the concern, you're the highest priced employee.
Figure your hour value and invest it accordingly. Triphammers may
drive tacks, but not profitably. The operation is too expensive for
the return.
Thoroughness is an admirable quality when intelligently exercised,
but a folly when the game isn't worth the candle.
You're a good bargainer but you make bad deals despite the
concessions secured if the final terms represent a reduction which
does not cover the cost of your energy.
You can hire folk to handle most interviews and satisfy the demands
of the average caller.
Correspondence clerks can read and answer the greater part of the
mail.
One letter in twenty deserves your consideration--the nineteen are
merely routine communications which should never come under your
notice.
Study the future; observe the trend of events--weigh conditions.
Success is the servant of forethought and you won't be able to
measure possibilities except you have free moments to reflect and
scheme.
Get the dimes out of our eyes and find where the thousands are
located.
Engage experts to purchase supplies and run systems--reserve
yourself for decisive matters; that's real economy.
Hold the throttle--watch the gauge and signals or there will be a
wreck and you'll be in it.
Stick to your cab, keep the schedule. The engineer who tries to be
fireman, conductor and brakeman as well, is headed for a smash.
"THE PORTAL OF THE CAPE"
L.C. HALL
The present town of Bourne can claim many interesting facts about
its early history although not for 200 years after the coming of the
Pilgrims did it become a separate town. It was included within the
limits of the town of Sandwich until the comparatively recent date of
1884.
In 1622 Governor Bradford visited the Indian village of Manomet, so
called in their language, but which became corrupted into Monument,
a name by which the place was long known. It is probable that the
reason of the visit was partly for the purpose of establishing a
short cut between Buzzards Bay and Plymouth, via the Manomet (or
Monument) River.
[Illustration: THE PORTAL OF THE CANAL]
This river, now obliterated by the Cape Cod canal, had its origin in
Great Herring Pond in the Plymouth woods and flowed by a rather
circuitous route into Buzzards Bay at a point near the present
railroad bridge over the canal.
It was in 1627 that the colonists established a trading post on the
banks of this river, the exact point being known and marked. It was
on the south side of the river a short distance south of the Bourne
bridge spanning the canal. This structure was built for the purpose
of facilitating their intercourse with the Narragansett country, New
Amsterdam (New York), and the shores of Long Island sound. By
transporting their goods up the creek from Scusset harbor (Sandwich)
and transferring them to what is now Bournedale by land, they
reached the boatable waters of the Manomet (or Monument) river and
the open waters of Buzzards Bay.
Governor Bradford says; "For our greater convenience of trade, to
discharge our engagements, and to maintain ourselves, we built a
small pinnace at Manomet, a place on the sea, twenty miles to the
south, to which by another creek on this side, we transport our
goods by water within four or five miles and then carry them
overland to the vessel; thereby avoiding the compassing of Cape Cod
with those dangerous shoals, and make our voyage to the southward
with far less time and hazzard. For the safety of our vessel and our
goods we also there built a house and keep some servants, who plant
corn, raise swine, and are always ready to go out with the bark--which
takes good effect and turns to advantage."
The first communication between the Plymouth colony and the Dutch at
Fort Amsterdam was through this post. With a ship load of sugar,
linen and food stuffs, De Razier, the noted merchant, arrived at
Manomet in September, 1627, and Governor Bradford sent a boat to
Scusset harbor to convey him to Plymouth. There the trading was done
and the first merchandising venture of New England consummated.
In 1635 a tidal wave swept over this part of the Cape on the 15th of
August, destroying the trading post and partially filling the river
with sand.
When the white men came Bourne contained other Indian hamlets beside
Manomet. At the south was Pokesit (Pocasset) and still to the south
was Kitteaumut (Cataumet), while to the north of all these was
Comasskumkanit, the home of the Herring pond Indians.
Bourne is the first town reached when driving Capeward. After
passing through Wareham from the west and nearing Buzzards Bay, Cape
Cod and the town of Bourne is entered after passing over the new
concrete bridge over Cohasset Narrows, the most northerly arm of
Buzzards Bay. This fine concrete structure, completed last year at
an expense of about a quarter of a million dollars, is really the
"Portal of the Cape," although there is another way to reach it from
the direction of Plymouth, also passing through the town of Bourne.
[Illustration: YACHT RACE IN BUZZARD'S BAY]
The village of Buzzards Bay is a railroad junction point and there
the Cape Cod canal makes its exit into Buzzards Bay. Thence to
Bourne proper is only about a mile. Bourne, the village, is
intersected by the canal and is connected by the highway bridge over
the canal. There are two main highways following the course of the
canal. The one on the north side follows its course most of the way,
passing the village of Bournedale, thence to Sagamore, by crossing
over the easterly canal bridge. The other road is on the south side
of the canal and the two join at Sagamore village, where a single
main road runs to the Sandwich line and the central and lower Cape.
Southerly the town extends toward Falmouth and along the line of the
Woods Hole branch railroad lie the summer resort villages of
Monument Beach, Pocasset and Cataumet. These resorts are popular
from their sightly location along the shores of Buzzards Bay. The
views are entrancing, the waters of the bay are suitable for warm
sea bathing and boating is here a sport that is at its best. Back of
these villages lie woodlands extending easterly to Sandwich and
Mashpee.
Among the pioneers of Bourne are recognized Ebenezer Nye, John Smith,
Elisha Bourne, John Gibbs, Jr., Benjamin Gibbs and others who
followed them. The land was purchased from the Indians and permanent
homes were early established there.
In 1717 a unique proposal was made in the General Court for the
assessment of the towns on the Cape for the building and maintenance
of a fence from Peaked Hill cliffs on the Massachusetts bay side to
the head waters of Buzzards bay on the other side, to keep the
wolves of Plymouth county from invading Barnstable county where they
destroyed sheep and caused other destruction. Had the project gone
through it would have been a practical fencing off of the entire
Cape from the rest of the continent.
Probably the thing of greatest interest to tourists today in the
town of Bourne is the Cape Cod canal. It completely bisects the town
along its eight mile course through the land and is of never failing
interest to all strangers. Traffic passing through, consisting of
tugs towing barges, colliers, of large and small tonnage, freight
boats and occasional government craft can be seen at close view from
the highways on either side and from the bridges that span the canal.
The opening and closing of the two huge jack-knife bridges is seldom
without interested spectators during daylight hours.
At night the canal is brilliantly lighted along its banks and the
passage through of the big New York boat is a sight that attracts a
great many people. The value of the canal to the system of national
defense was demonstrated during the war and a bill is now before
Congress for the purchase of it and for its operation by the war
department. Probabilities point to much greater development under
government ownership when it will probably be widened and deepened
and there is a possibility that locks will be installed to regulate
the rushing current that now more or less hampers navigation.
The people of Bourne foresee advantages to their town through these
contemplated developments and hope for the establishment of a
landing place which will provide terminal facilities for steamers
handling passengers and freight.
[Illustration: SCENE FROM "PAGEANT OF CAPE COD" HELD AT BOURNE]
Aside from its extensive summer business along the shores of
Buzzards bay and its popular colony at Sagamore Beach on Cape Cod bay,
Bourne has comparatively little commercial activity. One large
manufacturing plant exists at Sagamore where the Keith Car and
Manufacturing Company is located and gives employment to a large
number of men. There freight cars are built and repaired under the
management of Eben S.S. Keith, a former member of the Governor's
council and one of the leading citizens of the Cape.
Bourne enjoys the distinction of being a former summer capital of
the country. When Grover Cleveland was president of the United
States he established his summer home at Gray Gables, near Buzzards
Bay village, and there was transacted the government's business
during his stay there. Gray Gables is still owned by his widow
although it is no longer occupied by her.
Another distinguished resident of Bourne was the late Joseph
Jefferson, the veteran actor, whose palatial residence "Crows' Nest"
on Buttermilk bay was one of the show places of the section. In a
little cemetery, just over the town line in Sandwich his body now
reposes, marked with a huge bowlder which he picked out during his
life time to mark his grave. Mr. Cleveland and Mr. Jefferson were
close and intimate friends and companions upon fishing trips about
Cape Cod territory.
Bourne, not "that bourne from whence no traveller returns," but
Bourne, the "Portal to Cape Cod," is a large and interesting town.
Within its limits abide many summer residents, occupying large and
small cottages and estates of refinement and beauty. It has many
drives of sylvan beauty, through shaded roads, by emerald ponds, and
over hills and through vales, commanding views of placid and
glimmering Buzzards bay and the broad reaches of Cape Cod bay on its
northerly side. Like other Cape Cod towns, it has a history of
maritime adventure behind it and a glorious future as a summer
resting place before it. The possibilities of its shores have
scarcely begun to be developed.
We need not admonish all who visit Cape Cod to "see Bourne" for
those who visit the Cape cannot possibly escape it unless they come
by boat or flying machine. In order to reach the Cape, Bourne must
necessarily be encountered and those who tarry there will find the
time well spent.
[Illustration]
WHERE SHALL I SPEND MY VACATION
Where shall I spend my vacation? This is the question that thousands
of people are asking themselves today. Since half the fun of a
vacation is the anticipation of it, the planning of it is something
that needs to be given consideration.
It might be asked, "why take a vacation?" and that question might be
answered by asking, "Why sleep, and why eat?" for vacations are
necessary parts of peoples' lives and those who have never known the
joys of them have never truly lived.
Vacations help to keep people young, they help to broaden their
views and renew their bodily and mental vigor.
[Illustration: SOME TYPICAL CAPE COD COTTAGES]
A vacation does not necessarily have to be expensive. Any change of
environment will do, but it is much more pleasurable to meet new
scenes and breathe new atmospheres. Whether one depends upon the
trains for transportation, or the boats, or automobiles and whether
one stops at the hotels, at the boarding houses or camps, depends
largely upon one's circumstances and inclination.
Ideas of vacations vary. Some delight in visiting the most sumptuous
hotels, to indulge in social intercourse and to enjoy complete
relaxation. Others like to live the strenuous life, to rough it in
camp and woods and field.
No matter what the desires are all of them can be culminated upon
Cape Cod.
So the answer to the question of our caption is, "spend it on Cape
Cod."
In a little more detail it may be said that Cape Cod has all the
attributes of an ideal vacation spot. It can be reached over smooth
highways which present no difficulties to the motorist. It can be
reached by train or boat, or even by flying machine if one so desires.
When reached a variety of entertainment may be found to suit all
tastes. There is Old Ocean everywhere, surging restlessly upon the
shores or lying placid in the bays and inlets. Those who enjoy
boating and bathing can indulge in those pleasures to their heart's
content. If they enjoy beautiful scenery, green trees, blue waters,
level spaces or hilly vistas, Cape Cod has them all.
If they wish to stop in modern hotels, to receive service of the
most exuberant kind, to be entertained royally, the hotels of Cape
Cod will answer their purpose.
If they like to fish, to camp, to live an out door life, indulge in
golf, tennis, or other games, Cape Cod can furnish them with the
opportunity.
If they search for the quaint and curious they can find it; if they
want to visit a section rich in Colonial history, to visit spots
where the Pilgrim Fathers trod, Cape Cod is the only place where
such can be found.
To particularize as to the attractions of different parts of the
Cape the following brief summary may serve to help solve the
vacation problem.
Provincetown--At the tip end of the Cape, except for a narrow
strip of land entirely surrounded by water. It has all the
attractions of an island and none of its disadvantages. The town is
quaint in its architecture, unique in its surroundings and especially
attractive to artists who form a large part of the summer colony
there. It is the summer rendevouz of the North Atlantic fleet of the
U.S. Navy and the home port of a large fishing fleet. It has excellent
hotels, and rooms and board may be obtained in many private families.
It may be reached by boat from Boston, by train or by automobile.
Truro and Highland Light--Highland Light is located upon a high
bluff overlooking the broad Atlantic in the town of Truro. The
topography of Truro is distinctive and picturesque with sand dunes,
rolling hills and salty marshes. Golf links and good fishing.
Wellfleet--Wellfleet is a pretty village in which there are good
hotels, a land locked harbor, and plenty of shell fish. Many summer
residents have their homes there and it is a favorite camping place.
Eastham--A town on the lower part of the Cape, quiet and pastoral.
An ideal place for campers and cottagers.
Orleans--By many considered one of the prettiest places on Cape
Cod. Has hotels and can provide for many boarders in private families.
A fine place for boating and picnics.
[Illustration: WHARVES AT PROVINCETOWN]
Brewster--A quiet and peaceful rural town bordering on the bay.
Contains many beautiful ponds within its limits and provides
excellent bathing and fishing.
Chatham--A summer resort town of growing popularity. Has several
first class hotels and numerous cottages. It is located at the elbow
of the Cape, fronts on the Atlantic ocean and has many safe bays and
inlets for boating and bathing. It is noted for its golf links and
is destined to become the summer center for golfing enthusiasts.
Harwich--Consists of numerous villages all of which are
attractive for summer residence. It borders on Nantucket sound, has
fine beaches, summer hotels and cottages. It has a community life in
summer that is not surpassed anywhere.
Dennis--This town reaches entirely across the Cape and is split
up into several villages. On the south side it is bordered by
Nantucket sound and on the north by Massachusetts bay. Has excellent
summer hotels and good bathing and fishing.
Yarmouth--A town with quiet and shady streets, sloping shores
and many old residences. One of the historic towns of the regions
and presents a variety of attractions.
Barnstable--The county seat and largest town on the Cape.
Attractions exceedingly varied. Noted for the excellence of its clams.
Hyannis--Known as the Metropolis of the Cape. It is a center for
summer business. Here are to be found excellent hotels, good stores
and attractive tea rooms. Its main street is lined with summer stores
which are branches of New York and Boston's exclusive shops.
Adjacent to it are Hyannisport, a summer colony of fine residences.
Centerville, Craigville, said to have the finest beach in New England,
Osterville (called the little Newport), and Cotuit, one of the
prettiest spots along the shores of Vineyard Sound. This region is
growing more and more popular every year as the summer home of
people of wealth and refinement and presents all the attractions of
resorts which cater to the diversion of vacationists.
Falmouth--Falmouth is one of the larger villages on the Cape
that draws a fine class of summer residents who populate its fine
hotels and summer homes. It has varied scenery as it lies between
Buzzards Bay and Vineyard Sound. Its hotels are among the best and
for attractiveness cannot be rivalled anywhere. At Woods Hole, a
part of Falmouth, is found another settlement of exclusive character.
Falmouth has several other villages, all with fine hotels, golf
links and boat harbors.
Sandwich--This town on the North side of the Cape is one of the
old and original settlements and is on the banks of the Cape Cod
canal. It has extensive woodlands dotted with well stocked ponds and
is very attractive to campers.
Bourne--Sagamore Beach, within the confines of the town of Bourne,
is on the north shore and is a pretentious cottage colony with two
excellent hotels. Golf links are adjacent and it has its own water
system, community house and tennis courts. Cataumet and Pocasset are
parts of Bourne which border on Buzzards Bay as well as Monument
Beach and the village of Buzzards Bay, itself. These are typical
bayside resorts where boating, bathing, fishing and golf are
extensively indulged in. The town is intersected by the Cape Cod
canal and the traffic that flows through it passes in front of the
summer colonies.
Martha's Vineyard--This is an off-shore island reached by a
half-hour's boat ride from Woods Hole. A poet has said of it,
"a little bit of Heaven dropped from out the sky one day" which
aptly describes it. Oak Bluffs, Edgartown. Vineyard Haven, Tisbury,
Chilmark and Gay Head are its principal villages. The island
presents all the best features of an ideal summer vacation spot away
from the mainland, yet possessing all the essential features which
go to make life comfortable. Its hotels are many and excellent.
Nantucket--Further at sea, a two and a half hours' steamboat
ride from Woods Hole. Unique is a word that inadequately describes it.
All over the United States there are people who assert that there is
no place like Nantucket on the face of the globe. It has a large
summer population and tourists are adequately cared for. It has the
most regular climate of any place along the New England coast, the
temperature averaging 76 degrees during the summer months. It is
cooled by the Atlantic breezes.
Onset--This is a busy and thriving summer resort located in a
beautiful spot on upper Buzzards Bay. It attracts many thousands of
people during the summer months, who come to spend a few weeks, days,
or the season there. It is a cottage colony supplemented by hotels
and boarding houses that fit the purses of all classes.
At some of these places, either on Cape Cod itself or the islands,
every person can find conditions suited to his or her individual
taste.
WELLFLEET
EDWARD L. SMITH
Cape Cod has many fine distinctions that make it stand out from a
commonplace world and Wellfleet, as a town name, marks the Cape with
a place-name known all over the globe, but in no other locality than
on the coast of Barnstable Bay. It is true that a misguided, homesick,
and ill-advised denizen of the Cape, roaming the arid, inland sand
wastes of Nebraska, foisted the name of "Wellfleet" on his townsite.
But as it has to date remained "unwept, unhonored and unsung," so is
it quite unknown to sailors or to the sea, being about fifteen
hundred miles from salt water and an immeasurable distance from
being appropriately named.
The origin of the name "Wellfleet" has always been a source of
lively interest to those who delight to delve to the roots of things
historical. So many of our early towns in Massachusetts were named
by the Englishmen who settled them for English towns familiar to
them before they came oversea, that England is the natural source
from whence such a Saxon-English name as Wellfleet might come.
After forty years of desultory search by the writer, the problem is
yet unsolved, though a good Yankee guess may not come very far out
of the way.
When that part of old Nawsett now Wellfleet was first settled it was
noted for the abundance of shell fish in the harbor and creeks, or
cricks as then called, and oysters were both especially plentiful
and choice.
In England, on the coast of Essex, and not far from the Thames, was
a stretch of oyster beds noted in the sixteenth century for their
production of oyster different from all other locations and revered
by epicures of those far-away times to be the luscious complement
necessary to their royal as well as more common plebeian feasts. But
we had best let old John Norden, who in 1594 published the results
of his life-long investigations into the history of Essex, tell the
story, which here is given verbatim as it appears in his work,
"SPECTLI BRITTANNIE PARS."
"Some part of the sea shore of Essex yealdeth the beste
oysters in England, which are called Walflete oysters: so
called of a place in the sea; but of which place in the sea
it is, hath been some disputation. And by the circumstances
that I have observed thereof in my travail, I take it to be
the shore which lieth betwene St. Peter's chappell and Crowch
the bredthe onlie of Denge hundred, through which upon the
verie shore, was erected a wall for the preservation of the
lande. And thereof St. Peter's on the wall. And all the sea
shore which beateth on the wall is called Walfleet. And upon
that shore on, and not elswher, but up in Crouche creeke, at
the ende of the wall, wher also is an ilande called commonlie
and corruptlie Walled (but I take it more trulie Wallflete)
Island, wher and about which ilande thys kinde of oyster
abonndeth. Ther is greate difference betwene theis oysters
and others which lie ypon other shores, for this oyster, that
in London and els wher carieth the name of Walflete is a
little full oyster with a verie greene finn. And like vnto
theis in quantetie and qualitie are none in this lande,
thowgh farr bigger, and for some mens diettes better."
From the above we may understand that Wellfleet oysters, which have
been celebrated in the English markets for between three and four
hundred years, might easily have led the settlers of Nawsett to
believe that at Billinsgate, they had a new Wallfleet Oyster bed.
The fact that Wallfleet oysters were marketed at Billinsgate,
always the big fish market of the Londoners, and that our Wellfleet
was at first known as Billingsgate, seems more than a mere
coincidence.
The difference in spelling between the names "Wallfleet" and
"Wellfleet" is not material. Barnstable; town, county and bay, take
their name from Barnstaple on the coast of Devon. Norden, who was
a highly educated man of University breeding, and a polished writer,
varied the spelling of some words even in the same paragraph as
witness "Crowch" and "Crouche," also "Ilande" and "Island." The
diversified spellings of many of our common names is so marked as to
be beyond comment except to note their wide variety, due to attempts
to follow the peculiar phonetics of untaught individuals. In the one
particular of "Well," who of us has not heard that word pronounced
"W-a-a-l." when used as an interjection? All of which makes it seem
inescapable from the theory that Wellfleet on the Cape is named
after WALLFLEET on the coast of Essex, England.
A SQUEAK FOR A LIFE
1850
P.T. CHAMBERLAIN
"Whither bound?" said his wife to the captain one morn
As he stood, oars and fish lines in his hands,
"Outside Sandy Neck, to try fisherman's luck
For bluefish, or mackerel or clams."
"Good luck and good-bye," said his fond loving wife,
"The weather looks pleasant and fair,
You'll be back at the landing on the full of the tide,
And the children and I'll wait you there."
But when rounding Beach Point, with his good catch of fish,
The captain was caught in a squall,
Black clouds, wind and thunder, lightning and hail,
While the rain in torrents did fall.
Quick he lowered his sail, but the wind snapped his mast,
Away they went over the side.
One gunwale under water, the other in air,
Lifted high by the surging tide.
Then the captain braced himself as with sinews of steel,
A hand on each gunwale places he,
So he balanced and steadied his frail little craft,
Rolling there in the trough of the sea.
His wife from the window saw his peril in the storm.
And away to the landing she sped.
Tied her white linen apron to a handy boat book,
And waved it high o'er her head.
"Home, home for a lantern," to the laddie she cried.
Home, home for the lantern ran he,
Returning, he swung it, back and forth, to and fro,
That his brave sailor father might see.
Soaked to the skin with the rain and the spray,
His face as white as the foam,
"Must I drown in sight of my wife," he said,
"Must I die within reach of my home."
"For the sake of my helpless little ones,
For the sake of my faithful wife.
I pray Thee, O Lord, to forgive all my sins,
Give me this one chance for my life."
Still darker grew the storm, black and green looked the waves,
The shore line to the captain grew dim,
But he knew by the lantern and the waving white flag,
Where his loved ones were watching for him.
Three hours he struggled with the full flooding tide.
Now the Channel Rock danger is o'er.
One more stretch of water, some more dangerous rocks,
Then the gleaming surf, then the shore.
"A rope, bring a rope," the kind neighbors shout,
"A rope now the captain will save."
They coiled a stout rope and with powerful hand,
Flung it out o'er the turbulent wave.
Joy! Joy! he is saved! He clutches the rope,
With cold, bruised and stiffening hand,
A long pull, a strong' pull, and more dead than alive,
Through the surf they draw him to land.
"Home, home for hot coffee," to the lassie she cried,
Home, home for hot coffee, went she,
Returning, brought coffee, dry clothing, warm food,
A fleet-footed lassie was she.
But the kid, boylike, would investigate the boat,
And so he climbed over its side.
"Half full of water," he said, "not a bluefish or clam,
Must have all floated out on the tide."
With boat hook and lantern, the kids travelled home,
"Little sister, now what do you think,
Hadn't we said, 'Now I lay me,' to the Lord every night?
Would He let Pa and our dory sink?"
"No, no," said the lassie, "No, no, that ain't so,
Naughty children very often are we,
'Tis 'cause Ma puts a Bible in Pa's chest of clothes
Every time that he goes 'way to sea."
Gratitude profound, thanksgiving and joy
Filled the heart of the loving wife,
But the captain, a man of few words, only said,
"Yes, a pretty narrow squeak for a life."
RICHES
C.A. COTTRELL
If I can leave behind me, here and there
A friend or two to say when I am gone
That I have helped to make their pathways fair,
Had brought them smiles when they were bowed with care,
The riches of this world I'll carry on.
If only three or four shall pause to say
When I have passed beyond this earthly sphere,
That I brought gladness to them on a day
When bitterness was theirs, I'll take away
More riches than a billionaire leaves here.
CAPE TROUT STREAMS
The chronic trout fisherman is by nature secretive. He is loath to
tell where he made his big catches and shrouds the location of the
streams in mystery. If pinned down closely he will sometimes
indicate a general locality but it is hard to get him to be more
definite. The reason for this is obvious. He is zealous of his
rights as a "discoverer" and feels that he is not obliged to share
his knowledge with anybody. He won't take the risk of having the
stream "fished out" by others than himself. The secrets of the
location of gold strikes in the days of '49 were no more closely kept.
When the 15th of April comes around each year there are certain wise
men who proceed to load up their automobiles with their fishing
tackle and in the early morning turn Capeward. They have experiences
of previous years to guide them and know certain brooks and pools
where the speckled beauties await them. The wise ones know just
where to throw their lines and the kind of bait that is sure to lure
the denizens of that particular spot. For fishing is a science, as
well as a sport requiring skill and judgment. The born fisherman
seems to have an uncanny sense of piscatorial thoughts and almost
instinctively can determine just the right thing to do and the right
time to do it, while the mere amateur fisherman who only wets a line
occasionally guesses whether to use a fly or a worm.
Yes, the Cape is a noted Mecca for trout fishermen, at least certain
parts of the Cape. Within the confines of Bourne, Mashpee, Falmouth
and Barnstable are many likely trout brooks and from them are
annually taken many catches that gladden the hearts of the sportsmen.
These brooks run into the ponds and the sea, they run through
marshes and woods. They abound in trout, of the square-tail variety,
and those who know them keep their secrets closely.
Sometimes a fisherman exhibits a basket of fish that astonishes all
beholders. Big speckled beauties they are and in quantity sufficient
to satisfy any one.
Some of the biggest of them may be "salters," fish caught near the
mouths of the brooks that run into the sea and weighing all the way
from a pound to two pounds or more. There is authentic information
that trout weighing more than two and a half pounds have been taken
from these Cape Cod streams.
Unfortunately for the general public many of the brooks are
"posted," but there are a lot of fishermen that "don't believe in
signs" and when they see a sign of "no fishing here" they are apt to
challenge the statement and some of them aver that there is very
good fishing there indeed.
It is a matter of history that the Pilgrims found trout in the Cape
Cod streams. It is a matter of fact that many of the brooks have
been stocked by private individuals and by the state. Every year the
fish in these stocked brooks increase in size and the sophisticated
fishermen keep track of them from year to year. The state keeps a
record of the stocking of streams and that information can be
obtained and made use of.
At Sandwich the state maintains a trout hatchery where millions of
eggs are secured. These eggs develop into fry and fingerlings and
they are distributed throughout the state, the Cape getting its full
share.
A visit to this hatchery is interesting. It demonstrates how the
state strives to increase sport for its residents. Science and
experience are exercised and the result is that the fishing
advantages of the state are steadily increasing.
One of the chief drawbacks of having well stocked streams is the
unsportsmanlike conduct of many fishermen. To them a trout is a
trout regardless of its size and hundreds of small fish are taken
from the streams that should be put back and allowed to grow for
another year. There may be satisfaction for some in catching a large
quantity of seven-inch fish, but there is a greater satisfaction in
catching fewer in number and larger in size.
Many of the streams are suitable for fly-casting and experienced
fishermen delight in that method of filling their creel. To cast a
gossamer silk line with an alluring fly into the deeper pools and to
feel the thrill of a strike as the fly flits over the surface is a
joy that far outweighs the less spectacular method of fishing with
worm or grub and dragging the trout from the water by main strength.
There is a skill in fly-casting that comes from long practice and
the fisherman who is expert in this method cares to use no other.
The trout is a shy fish and the blundering sportsman who goes
stumbling through the underbrush, who allows his shadow to fall upon
the pool, or who in other ways announces to the fish lurking under
the bank that he is present with homicidal intent often wonders why
it is that the results are so small for the amount of effort expended.
He may aver that the stream is barren of fish when the fact is that
his own clumsiness is responsible for his lack of success.
In other words there are all kinds of fishermen; to the victor
belongs the spoils and the greater the skill the greater the spoil.
We are not asserting that Cape Cod trout streams are as prolific as
are some in more remote regions, they are fished too frequently for
that, but any one wanting a day's sport will not find them entirely
lacking and very often will proudly exhibit catches that will by no
means be insignificant, even to the most experienced and
enthusiastic fisherman.
* * * * *
"No sah, ah doan't neber ride on dem things," said an old coloured
lady looking in on the merry-go-round.
"Why, de other day I seen dat Rastus Johnson git on an' ride as much
as a dollah's worth an' git off at the very same place he got on at,
an' I sez to him: 'Rastus,' I sez, 'yo' spent yo' money, but whar
yo' been?'"
--Ladies Home Journal.
OCEAN TRAVELS
EMMA B. PRAY
Not very long ago, in one of the newspapers, I read of a lady who
had traveled some thirty thousand odd miles in her life time, and the
item set me to thinking of the many times I had traveled with my
husband some years ago when he commanded a clipper ship on Eastern
voyages. For Curiosity's sake I looked over my journals and found
that in the few voyages I had made I had covered two hundred
forty-nine thousand two hundred sixteen miles--but how it all came
about is a long story.
When I was a young girl, if any one had told me that I should spend
a certain number of years travelling about in Eastern countries,
passing three or four months at a time on the ocean, I should have
said, "What an idea! Here I am, born and brought up in a small New
Hampshire town, in a family whose idea seems to be to keep as far
away from the water as possible, and with no thought of ever
crossing it, 'Unless,' as my father used to say, 'there should be a
bridge built by which we could do so'."
In fact my knowledge of a ship and its belongings was nearly equal
to that of the young lady who was about to make her first trip
across the ocean with her father. Seeing the sailors about to weigh
anchor she inquired why they were working so hard. Her father replied,
"They are weighing the anchor, my dear." "How absurd! If the Captain
wants to know the weight of the anchor why doesn't he have it
weighed beforehand and not wait until we get ready to start and then
keep us waiting for the men to weigh it?"
However, it is the unexpected that always happens, and one day I
married a young sea captain from a seaport town. He was soon to sail
for Australia, and to me such a trip was literally going to the ends
of the earth. I feel sure that my parents never expected me to return.
What preparations we made for that voyage! What pickles, preserves,
cakes, and everything that would keep, were packed for me and sent
aboard our ship which was lying in New York harbor!
Our cabins were beautifully fitted up with every convenience and
comfort that we could have on shore. The saloon, or after-cabin, was
finished in bird's-eye maple and satin wood veneering. Wilton
carpets and furnishings of raw silk made a homelike and attractive
room. Our stateroom, with large double bed, and our own private bath
opening from the stateroom, left us nothing to wish for in the line
of comfort. The second cabin, or dining quarters for the Captain and
First Officer, was finished like the after-cabin, while forward of
the two was the mess room for the Second and petty officers.
At last the day came on which we were to sail, and, realizing that I
was not a born sailor, I made up my mind that I must make myself
over into one, though the making over process proved to be nearly
the death of me. For the first ten days I can recall but little
outside of a promiscuous tumbling about of movable objects and,
though urged strongly to go on deck I refused to do so, caring
little whether I lived or died. However, one day I was literally
taken up, carried on deck, and placed in a steamer chair, and from
that time I recovered rapidly.
So many people have asked me if the time at sea did not hang heavily
on my hands. What did I do? Was I not lonesome, homesick, and
innumerable other like questions to which I have honestly replied
that I was not lonesome or homesick. We purchased books by the
hundred before sailing, and with a piano and flute, passed many
pleasant hours. So much fancy work was always on hand that I have
cared but little for it since. Whenever the weather permitted I
walked two or three miles up and down the quarter deck, so many
times up and back making a mile. Occasionally we took with us as
passenger some young man whom we knew very well and who wished to
take such a voyage. At one time a brother of mine, also one of the
Captain's were our companions; two other times, young men from our
own state proved to be excellent company, and to this day we enjoy
nothing more than talking over our odd experiences in the different
countries to which we traveled. Though I was the only lady on board
I did not feel the lack of companionship of other women. A queer
life it was! No one to come and no one to go, with nothing but the
sky and water to be seen.
In two weeks time we had the N.E. Trade Winds and fairly flew along.
Each day brought its own particular work aboard the ship, for a
sailor is never idle. There is always something for him to do.
Chafing gear, of which there is a large amount, is always being worn
out and has to be renewed, sails made and repaired, work on rigging,
tarring, painting, etc.
Perhaps the most interesting part of each day was the marking off of
the chart at noon. At that time the Captain would work out his
latitude and longitude, mark our position for the last twenty-four
hours, and shape our course for the next twenty-four. We often towed
lines for dolphin, and it was curious to see their change of color
as they were hauled in. We had them baked occasionally and found them
very fair eating. On opening one, at one time, it was found to be
packed with flying fish which had been swallowed whole and which
some of the sailors took out and had cooked for themselves, though
for my part I should have preferred having the first eating of them.
The flying fish which came aboard were usually served to me as they
were considered a great delicacy. We caught many jelly fish or
Portuguese men of war as they are sometimes called, and they were
very curious to look at. They are of a jelly-like substance, with
apparently no eyes or mouth, and are bluish in color. They have a
pink crest and when the wind strikes them, as they float on the water,
they rock and sway like a boat. Dangling from the lower part are
many small feelers, some of which are short and thick, and others of
great length, which they turn and twist rapidly about.
A shade of homesickness came over me as I saw the North Star for the
last time but I was soon interested in the Southern Cross of which I
had heard so much. I wish I could describe some of the beautiful
colorings shown in the tropical sunsets. I missed the twilight
effects as seen at home, for as quickly as the sun goes down,
darkness closes in. As I was enjoying my evening walk with the
Captain at one time, a small boy who had been sent to sea apparently
with the idea of getting him out of the way, came to me and said,
"Wouldn't you like some Youth's Companions to read? I have lots of
them." At that time I had more of a juvenile than a matronly air and
I presume he thought they would furnish me with appreciative reading
matter. He had not then learned that he should not speak unless
spoken to. One day on being told to make a rope fast he replied,
"I did hitch it." An order to let go a brace was answered by the
question, "Which string do you mean?" At one time he was placed on
duty to open and close shutters during squally weather and the
officer told him to use a good application of soap and water before
coming aft. When the novelty of his new duty had worn off and he had
rather forgotten why he had been placed there the officer called to
him and said, "What did I tell you to do?" "Wash myself, sir," was
the reply. It was a long while before he could obey an order without
replying and at the same time to remember his "Sir" when a reply was
necessary.