VISIT of REAR-ADMIRAL DE HORSEY
EARLY Sunday morning, on the 8th of September, 1878, the islanders
were greatly surprised at seeing a British man-of-war to the north of
the island. As the mist and light rains that partly hid the ship from
view cleared away, she was seen standing in toward the land, with the
evident intention of communicating with the shore. The one boat that
the islanders possessed was soon launched and on its way to the ship.
After a short stay it returned, accompanied by others from the ship;
which was H. M. S. _Shah_, the flagship of the admiral commanding the
Pacific station. A large crowd from the ship came on shore, and as they
came in time for the morning service, the still unfinished meetinghouse
that was being built at the time was furnished with seats formed by
boards laid across boxes, to accommodate the congregation, whose number
was doubled by the addition of the visitors.
The chaplain of the ship, Rev. J. Reed, took part in officiating. The
people greatly enjoyed the pleasure of having Admiral De Horsey and his
officers join with them in their worship and service, and would have
been pleased to have them remain through the afternoon, but the admiral
was anxious to leave on the evening of the same day, so their stay was
unavoidably short. However, he afterward kindly yielded to the request
to remain until the next day, to afford the people opportunity to get
some fruit and other things for their visitors, as they felt that they
could not conscientiously allow themselves to do so on the Sunday.
Having decided to prolong his stay, the admiral gave an invitation
to all the islanders to come on board at eight the next morning to
visit his ship and have breakfast there. Most of the people availed
themselves of the kind invitation and were ready at an early hour for
the anticipated pleasure. The day opened calm and dull, with occasional
light showers of rain, which, while they dampened the garments, failed
to damp the spirits of those who visited the ship. Breakfast was laid
on a long table in the cabin, and at the appointed hour a large party
sat down with the good admiral to partake of the bountiful feast he had
ordered.
The kind people on board seemed to vie with each other in their efforts
to entertain and please, showing their visitors about their huge home
on the waters, and how they lived, enjoying, too, the evident wonder
and admiration displayed by their guests as they watched the revolving
of the mighty engines, and also the keen pleasure and interest they
manifested in everything they saw around them. On deck the band was
playing, while in one of the rooms below one of the officers was seated
at a piano, making music for a company of admiring listeners. In the
gun room the crowd of young officers had gathered the schoolchildren
together, and persuaded them to sing some of their songs and glees,
they in return singing some of their bright, lively songs. The hours
flew quickly, and soon one by one the islanders passed down the
steep sides of the ship to return home, after wishing their kind
visitors good-by, and carrying with them a lively remembrance of their
delightful entertainment on board, while the _Shah_, with her over
eight hundred souls, steamed on her way and was soon out of sight.
The following is the report of Rear-Admiral de Horsey, commander in
chief on the Pacific station, which was received at the admiralty:—
“September 17, 1878. Sir, I request you will acquaint the lords
commissioners of the admiralty that, as Pitcairn Island lay in my
track from Esquimalt to Valparaiso, and the weather being sufficiently
favorable for landing, I took advantage of the circumstance to visit
that island, for the purpose of ascertaining the condition of the
inhabitants, and also to obtain refreshments on this long voyage.
Having sighted Pitcairn at daylight on the 8th inst., we arrived at
Bounty Bay at 8 A. M., and remained off the island until noon the
following day, when we proceeded on our voyage.
“A few particulars as to the present condition of this small and almost
inaccessible island, the only spot of British territory lying in the
vast triangle between Vancouver, Falkland, and Fiji Islands, may not be
uninteresting to their lordships, and are therefore made the subjects
of this letter. The population at present numbers ninety, of all
ages, of which forty-one are males and forty-nine females.... There
is but one survivor of the generation which immediately followed the
mutineers, viz., Elizabeth Young, aged about eighty-eight, daughter of
John Mills, gunner’s mate of the _Bounty_, and of an Otaheitian mother.
“The oldest man on the island is Thursday October Christian, grandson
of Fletcher Christian, master’s mate of the _Bounty_. The population
may be further described as consisting of sixteen men, nineteen women,
twenty-five boys, and thirty girls. The deaths on the island have
numbered about twelve in the last nineteen years, as no contagious
diseases visit the island....
“A few medicines which were sent from Valparaiso in H. M. S. _Reindeer_
(in 1869) are administered as required, by the pastor. Pitcairn Island
is governed by a ‘magistrate and chief ruler in subordination to her
Majesty the Queen of Great Britain,’ who not only administers the
laws, but also enacts them. There are two councillors to advise and
assist the chief magistrate, besides which, the ‘heads of families’
are convened for consultation when required.... The chief magistrate
is elected annually on New Year’s day, and is open to reëlection. Both
sexes of and above the age of seventeen have a vote. The office is at
present filled by Mr. James Russell McCoy, who is also steersman of
the only boat on the island.... Divine service is held every Sunday
at 10:30 A. M. and at three P. M., ... and it is conducted strictly
in accordance with the liturgy of the Church of England, by Mr. Simon
Young, their selected pastor, who is much respected. A Bible class is
held every Wednesday, when all who conveniently can, attend. There is
also a general meeting for prayer on the first Friday of every month.
Family prayers are said in every house the first thing in the morning
and the last thing in the evening, and no food is partaken of without
asking God’s blessing before and afterwards. Captain Beechy, writing
fifty-three years ago, says: ‘These excellent people appear to live
together in perfect harmony and contentment, to be virtuous, religious,
cheerful, and hospitable, to be patterns of conjugal and paternal
affection, and to have very few vices.’ I have ventured to quote those
words, as they hold true to this day, the children having followed in
the footsteps of their parents.
“The observance of Sunday is very strict; no work is done; but this is
not in any pharisaical spirit, as shown on the occasion of our visit,
which chanced to be on a Sunday, when everything consistent with not
neglecting divine service was done to supply us with refreshments for
the crew, the chief magistrate arguing that it was a good work, and
necessary, as the ship could not wait. Of these islanders’ religious
attributes no one can speak without deep respect. A people whose
greatest privilege and pleasure is to commune in prayer with their
God, and to join in hymns of praise, and who are, moreover, cheerful,
diligent, and probably freer from vice than any other community,
need no priest among them. The pastor also fulfills the duty of
schoolmaster, in which he is assisted by his daughter, Rosalind
Amelia Young. The instruction comprises reading, writing, arithmetic,
Scripture history, and geography. The girls are taught sewing and
hat making as well, and the whole are taught part singing very
effectively.... Schooling is conducted in the church house, one end of
which is used as a library, open to all. English is the only language
spoken or known. [And a corruption of the same.]...
[Illustration: GROUP OF WOMEN AND CHILDREN.]
“The Pitcairn islanders are, of course, entirely dependent upon their
own resources. They grow sweet potatoes, yams, plantains, etc.,
and formerly plenty of breadfruit, but these are nearly all dying
out. They have also beans, carrots, turnips, cabbages, and a little
maize, pineapples, custard apples, and plenty of oranges, lemons, and
cocoanuts. Clothing is obtained alone from passing ships in barter for
refreshments. They have a few sheep, goats, pigs, fowls, cats, and
dogs. As it rains generally once a month, they have plenty of water,
although at times in former years they have suffered from drought.
No alcoholic liquors, except for medical purposes, are used, and a
drunkard is unknown. The houses are well ventilated, and furnished
sufficient for their simple wants. Scarcely any trees good for
timber grow here.... The men are chiefly employed tilling their
grounds, farming, house building, canoe fishing, etc.; the women, in
sewing, hat and basket making (in addition to their other household
work). All are industrious, and willing to take their share of public
work when required. This, at present, is enlarging the church house, to
meet the wants of an increasing population.
“The only communication with the outside world is by means of passing
ships, averaging perhaps one a month, and chiefly those on their way
to and from California; but this is precarious, as most ships fetch to
windward of Pitcairn, and those that do sight the island are frequently
unable to communicate. At the time of our visit the landing was
considered good, but it was necessary to watch for a smooth place, and
to use a light boat. They have no communication with Otaheite, and very
rarely with Norfolk Island or New Zealand.
“The necessary articles required by the islanders are best shown by
those we furnished in barter for refreshments, viz., flannel, serge,
drill, half boots, combs, tobacco, and soap. They also stand much in
need of maps and slates for their school, and tools of any kind are
most acceptable. I caused them to be supplied from the public stores
with a Union Jack for display on ships’ arrival, and a pit saw, of
which they were greatly in need. This, I trust, will meet the approval
of their lordships. If the munificent people of England were only
aware of the wants of this most deserving little colony, they would
not go long unsupplied. I would suggest that anything desired to be
sent be addressed to the care of the admiral on this station, either
at Coquimbo or Vancouver Island. If sent by private ships, goods may
never reach the island. Within the last two years or so two wrecks
have occurred—the English ship _Khandeish_, on Oeno Island, and the
English ship _Cornwallis_, on Pitcairn Island. In both cases the crews
took refuge on Pitcairn Island, remaining respectively over six weeks
and three days, and receiving every assistance, including food and
clothing, from the scanty supplies of the Pitcairn islanders. At the
wreck of the _Cornwallis_ the islanders in rendering assistance lost
their only boat, one made by themselves, and thus their only means of
communicating with passing ships....
“One stranger, an American, has settled on the island—a doubtful
acquisition. A few of the islanders have expressed a wish to return
to Norfolk Island—a not unnatural wish for change—but the chief
magistrate thinks none are likely to go. The islanders, at my
invitation, visited the _Shah_. No less than sixty-eight men, women,
and children, out of a total of ninety, came on board, regardless
of the difficulties of embarking, and the wind and rain. Their poor
garments were nearly wet through, and many were sea-sick, but the
pleasure of going on board one of their own country’s ships of war
outweighed all other considerations, and made them essentially happy.
“Finally I submit to their lordships that when the service will admit
it is desirable that a ship of war should visit Pitcairn annually, and
I propose to cause this to be done during the remainder of my command.
I submit also that this small colony is deserving such attention and
encouragement as Her Majesty’s government may think fit to hold out to
it. Her Majesty the Queen does not, I believe, possess in any part of
the world more loyal and affectionate subjects than this little knot
of settlers. I may here observe that a notion appears to prevail among
the Pitcairn islanders that Her Majesty’s government is displeased with
them for having returned from Norfolk Island (which, as their lordships
are aware, they did in two parties, the first in 1859 and the rest, I
believe, in 1864), although their return was, I believe, at their own
expense, and they have since been no burden to the Crown. This notion,
whence received I know not, I venture to affirm was without foundation,
feeling assured that Her Majesty’s government would rather honor them
for preferring the primitive simplicity of their native island to
either the dissolute manners of Otaheite or even the more civilized but
less pure and simple ways of Norfolk Island.... They will lose rather
than gain by contact with other communities.”
I have etc., etc. A. F. R. DE HORSEY,
“_Rear-Admiral and Commander in Chief_.”
In July, 1879, the year following the visit of the _Shah_, H. M. S.
_Opal_ came, bringing a beautiful organ of American manufacture—Clough
& Warren’s—as a gift from the Queen, Her Majesty having sent the sum
of £20 to Admiral de Horsey for the benefit of the Pitcairn islanders.
This he expended in the purchase of the above-named gift, thinking, and
rightly too, that the money could not be spent in a more satisfactory
way. The organ is ornamented with a heart-shaped silver plate placed
in the center above the keyboard, bearing the inscription, “A present
from Her Majesty the Queen to her loyal and loving Pitcairn Island
subjects, in appreciation of their domestic virtues.” This gift was
received with pardonable pride that the Queen should condescend to
remember the little isolated colony, as well as with feelings of true
loyalty toward, and love for, their sovereign. When the captain of the
_Opal_ seated himself at the instrument and struck a few chords of the
national song of Great Britain, there was not a voice that did not join
heartily in singing, “God save the Queen.”
Besides the organ, the result that immediately followed the admiral’s
appeal to the “munificent people of England” was seen in the abundant
and varied substantial gifts sent to the island on H. M. S. _Osprey_ in
March, 1880. When the admiral’s account of his visit was published in
England, a ready response was made to his appeal by many friends there,
and subscriptions were immediately set on foot. The chairman of the
committee to direct matters and dispose of the various subscriptions,
the Rev. Andrew A. W. Drew, a clergyman of the Church of England,
particularly exerted himself in the interests of the islanders, he
and his wife attending personally to the packing of the many boxes
that contained the gifts, the task being a most wearisome one, as,
owing to the long way the boxes had to come, they needed to be packed
with the greatest care. Every article that was sent was of the best.
A large supply of schoolbooks and the much-needed slates and pencils
also came, a gratefully received addition to what the good people of
San Francisco had previously supplied. Especial mention should be made
of the handsome gift of a number of Oxford Bibles—teachers’ editions
and others. Each Sunday school teacher was furnished with a teacher’s
Bible, which was valued accordingly, and the happy possessors felt that
on them were bestowed the richest gifts that England sent.
The beautiful and costly present of two boats was also received,
and that too with feelings akin to shame that so much thought and
kindness had been bestowed on the islanders, whose part in receiving
far surpassed that of the “more blessed” giving. One of the boats was
named “Queen Victoria,” and it bears an inscription to the effect that
it was a gift sent in recognition of the “gallant services rendered by
the islanders in saving life.” The other boat, a whaleboat, was named
“Admiral Drew,” in remembrance of the father of the Rev. A. Drew, the
gentleman above mentioned. Mr. Drew had had the latter boat built
strictly in accordance with his own directions, and the beautiful
little craft answers admirably the purpose for which it was intended,
viz., battling with the heavy surf that so frequently beats upon the
shore.
Thus much in regard to the response made to the admiral’s appeal by the
large-hearted donors in England. A volume could, however, be written
respecting the numberless gifts from private individuals and others,
that have from time to time been showered upon the people of this
remote spot of earth, gifts that have been received with gratitude
mingled with a feeling of unworthiness on the one hand, and of
dependence on the other, enabling the recipients to experience in all
its force the truth of the expression, “It is more blessed to give than
to receive.”
An attempt had been made two years previous, by a firm in Liverpool,
De Wolfe & Co., to establish some sort of business on the island, the
planting and raising of cotton, preparing cocoanut and candlenut, and
also arrowroot, by these means to enable them to supply their simple
wants through their own exertions. But the little island was too far
removed from any business center to make it a paying concern, and in
less than two years after the attempt was made it was broken up.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]