Returning, we stopped at the great castle of the Obizzi (now the
property of the Duke of Modena), through which we were conducted by a
surly and humorous _custode_, whose pride in life was that castle and
its treasures, so that he resented as a personal affront the slightest
interest in any thing else. He stopped us abruptly in the midst of the
museum, and, regarding the precious antiques and curiosities around
him, demanded:
"Does this castle please you?" Then, with a scornful glance at us,
"Your driver tells me you have been at Arquà? And what did you see at
Arquà? A shabby little house and a cat without any hair on. I would
not," said this disdainful _custode_, "go to Arquà if you gave me a
lemonade."