The Italians are simple and natural folks, pleased through all
their show of conventionality with little things, and as easy and
unconscious as children in their ways. There happened to be a new
caffè opened in Naples while we were there, and we had the pleasure
of seeing all ranks of people affected by its magnificence. Artless
throngs blocked the sidewalk day and night before its windows, gazing
upon its mirrors, fountains, and frescos, and regarding the persons
over their coffee within as beings lifted by sudden magic out of the
common orbit of life and set dazzling in a higher sphere. All the
waiters were uniformed and brass-buttoned to blinding effect, and the
head waiter was a majestic creature in a long blue coat reaching to
his feet, and armed with a mighty silver-headed staff. This gorgeous
apparition did nothing but walk up and down, and occasionally advance
toward the door, as if to disperse the crowds. At such times, however,
before executing his purpose, he would glance round on the splendors
they were admiring, and, as if smitten with a sense of the enormous
cruelty he had meditated in thinking to deprive them of the sight,
would falter and turn away, leaving his intent unfulfilled.