At night we were again in Bologna, of which we had not seen the gloomy
arcades for two years. It must be a dreary town at all times: in a
rain it is horrible; and I think the whole race of arcaded cities,
Treviso, Padua, and Bologna, are dull, blind, and comfortless. The
effect of the buildings vaulted above the sidewalks is that of
a continuous cellarway; your view of the street is constantly
interrupted by the heavy brick pillars that support the arches; the
arcades are not even picturesque. Liking always to leave Bologna as
quickly as possible, and, on this occasion, learning that there was no
hope of crossing the Apennines to Florence, we made haste to take the
first train for Genoa, meaning to proceed thence directly to Naples by
steamer.
It was a motley company that sat down in Hotel Brun the morning
after our arrival in Bologna to a breakfast of murky coffee and furry
beefsteaks, associated with sleek, greasy, lukewarm fried potatoes. I
am sure that if each of our weather-bound pilgrims had told his story,
we had been as well entertained as those at Canterbury. However, no
one thought fit to give his narrative but a garrulous old Hebrew from
London, who told us how he had been made to pay fifteen guineas for a
carriage to cross the Apennines, and had been obliged to walk part of
the way at that price. He was evidently proud, now the money was gone,
of having been cheated of so much; and in him we saw that there was
at least one human being more odious than a purse-proud
Englishman--namely, a purse-proud English Jew. He gave his noble name
after a while, as something too precious to be kept from the
company, when recommending one of the travellers to go to the Hotel
d'Angleterre in Rome: "The best 'otel out of England. You may mention
my name, if you like--Mr. Jonas." The recipient of this favor noted
down the talismanic words in his pocket-book, and Mr. Jonas, conscious
of having conferred a benefit on his race, became more odious to it
than ever. An Englishman is of a composition so uncomfortably original
that no one can copy him, though many may caricature. I saw an
American in London once who thought himself an Englishman because he
wore leg-of-mutton whiskers, declaimed against universal suffrage and
republics, and had an appetite for high game. He was a hateful animal,
surely, but he was not the British lion; and this poor Hebrew at
Bologna was not a whit more successful in his imitation of the
illustrious brute, though he talked, like him, of nothing but hotels,
and routes of travel, and hackmen and porters, and seemed to have
nothing to do in Italy but get through it as quickly and abusively as
possible.
We were very glad, I say, to part from all this at Bologna and take
the noon train for Genoa. In our car there were none but Italians,
and the exchange of "_La Perseveranza_" of Milan for "_Il Popolo_"
of Turin with one of them quickly opened the way for conversation and
acquaintance. (_En passant_: I know of no journal in the United States
whose articles are better than those of the "_Perseveranza_," and it
was gratifying to an American to read in this ablest journal of Italy
nothing but applause and encouragement of the national side in our
late war.) My new-made friend turned out to be a Milanese. He was
a physician, and had served as a surgeon in the late war of Italian
independence; but was now placed in a hospital in Milan. There was a
gentle little blonde with him, and at Piacenza, where we stopped
for lunch, "You see," said he, indicating the lady, "we are newly
married,"--which was, indeed, plain enough to any one who looked at
their joyous faces, and observed how great disposition that little
blonde had to nestle on the young man's broad shoulder. "I have a
week's leave from my place," he went on, "and this is our wedding
journey. We were to have gone to Florence, but it seems we are fated
not to see that famous city."
He spoke of it as immensely far off, and herein greatly amused us
Americans, who had outgrown distances.
"So we are going to Genoa instead, for two or three days." "Oh,
have you ever been at Genoa?" broke in the bride. "What magnificent
palaces! And then the bay, and the villas in the environs! There is
the Villa Pallavicini, with beautiful gardens, where an artificial
shower breaks out from the bushes, and sprinkles the people who pass.
Such fun!" and she continued to describe vividly a city of which
she had only heard from her husband; and it was easy to see that she
walked in paradise wherever he led her.
They say that Italian husbands and wives do not long remain fond
of each other, but it was impossible in the presence of these happy
people not to believe in the eternity of their love, and it was hard
to keep from "dropping into poetry" on account of them. Their bliss
infected every body in the car, and in spite of the weariness of our
journey, and the vexation of the misadventures which had succeeded one
another unsparingly ever since we left home, we found ourselves far on
the way to Genoa before we thought to grumble at the distance. There
was with us, besides the bridal party, a lady travelling from Bologna
to Turin, who had learned English in London, and spoke it much better
than most Londoners. It is surprising how thoroughly Italians master
a language so alien to their own as ours, and how frequently you find
them acquainted with English. From Russia the mania for this tongue
has spread all over the Continent, and in Italy English seems to be
prized first among the virtues.
As we drew near Genoa, the moon came out on purpose to show us the
superb city, and we strove eagerly for a first glimpse of the proud
capital where Columbus was born. To tell the truth, the glimpse was
but slight and false, for railways always enter cities by some mean
level, from which any picturesque view is impossible.
Near the station in Genoa, however, is the weak and ugly monument
which the municipality has lately raised to Columbus. The moon made
the best of this, which stands in a wide open space, and contrived,
with an Italian skill in the arrangement of light, to produce an
effect of undeniable splendor. On the morrow, we found out by the
careless candor of the daylight what a uselessly big head Columbus
had, and how the sculptor had not very happily thought proper to
represent him with his sea-legs on.