EXPLORATION OF VICTORIA NYANZA.
Preparing the _Lady Alice_ for Sea -- Selects his Crew -- The Start
for the Circumnavigation of Lake Victoria -- Afloat on the Lake -- A
Night at Uvuma -- Barmecide Fare -- Message from Mtesa -- Camp on
Soweh Island -- An Extraordinary Monarch -- Mtesa, Emperor of Uganda
-- Arrival at the Imperial Capital -- Glowing Description of the
Country -- A Grand Mission Field -- The Treachery of Bumbireh --
Saved! -- Refuge Island -- Return to Camp at Kagehyi.
The members of the expedition enjoyed their much-needed rest; and
Stanley, after taking the necessary observations to ascertain the
position of Kagehyi, and its altitude above the sea; to prepare paper,
pens and ink for the morrow’s report to the journals which had
dispatched him to this remote and secluded part of the world; to make
calculations of the time likely to be occupied in a halt at Kagehyi, in
preparing and equipping the _Lady Alice_ for sea;--found that his own
personal work had but begun.
Within seven days the boat was ready, and strengthened for a rough sea
life. Provisions of flour and dried fish, bales of cloth, and beads of
various kinds, odds and ends of small possible necessaries were boxed,
and she was declared, at last, to be only waiting for her crew. From the
young guides first selected by him at Bagamoyo, and who Kachéché, the
detective, informed him were the sailors of the expedition, he made a
list of ten sailors and a steersman, to whose fidelity he was willing
to entrust himself and fortunes while coasting round the Victorian sea.
[Illustration: THE VICTORIA NYANZA.]
After drawing up instructions for Frank Pocock and Fred. Barker on a
score of matters concerning the well-being of the expedition during his
absence, and enlisting for them, by an adequate gift, the goodwill of
Sungoro and Prince Kaduma, Stanley set sail on the 8th of March, 1875,
eastward along the shores of the broad arm of the lake which he first
sighted, and which henceforth is known, in honor of its first
discoverer, as “Speke Gulf.”
Space will not permit us to follow the details of Stanley’s voyage
around the lake. Sufficient to say it was accompanied with many
interesting and thrilling adventures with the different tribes along its
shores. The most of these tribes were of a savage and warlike character,
and gave the explorer no little amount of trouble.
On the 29th of March he crossed Napoleon Channel and coasted along
Uganda between numerous islands, the largest of which are densely
populated. At Kiwa Island he rested for the day, and was received with
the greatest cordiality by the chief, who sent messengers to the island
of Keréngé, a distance of three miles, to purchase bananas and jars of
maramba wine, for the guest, as he said, of the _Kabaka_ Mtesa. “As it
was the first time for twenty-two days that we had lived with natives
since leaving Kagehyi we celebrated, as we were in duty bound, our
arrival among friends,” says Stanley.
“The next day, guided and escorted by the chief, we entered Ukafu, where
we found a tall, handsome, young Mtongoleh in command of the district,
before whom the Chief of Kiwa Island made obeisance as before a great
lord. The young Mtongoleh, though professing an ardent interest in us,
and voluble of promises, treated us only to Barmecide fare, after
waiting twenty-four hours. Perceiving that his courtesies, though
suavely proffered, failed to satisfy the cravings of our jaded stomachs,
we left him still protesting enormous admiration for us, and still
volubly assuring us that he was preparing grand hospitalities in our
honor.
“I was staggered when I understood in its full extent the perfect art
with which we had been duped. ‘Could this be Central Africa,’ I asked
myself, ‘wherein we find such perfect adepts in the art of deception?’
But two days ago the savagery of the land was intense and real, for
every man’s hand was raised in ferocity against the stranger. In the
land next adjoining we find a people agreeable, and professing the
warmest admiration for the stranger, but as inhospitable as any
hotel-keeper in London or New York to a penniless guest!”
Stanley it seems, however, had been premature in his judgment, as he
subsequently discovered on arriving at a little village in the bay of
Buka. Here the Mtongoleh invited them to his village, spread out before
them a feast of new as well as clotted milk, mellow and ripe bananas, a
kid, sweet potatoes, and eggs, and despatched a messenger instantly to
the _Kabaka_ Mtesa to announce the coming of a stranger in the land,
declaring at the same time his intention not to abandon them until he
had brought them face to face with the great Monarch of Equatorial
Africa, in whom, he smilingly assured them, they should meet a friend,
and under whose protection they might sleep secure.
Mr. Stanley’s description of this land and its people is very graphic
and interesting, and we quote: “My admiration for the land and the
people steadily increased, for I experienced with each hour some
pleasing civility. The land was in fit accord with the people, and few
more interesting prospects could Africa furnish than that which lovingly
embraces the bay of Buka. From the margin of the lake, lined by waving
water-cane, up to the highest hill-top, all was verdure of varying
shades. The light green of the elegant matete contrasted with the deeper
tints of the various species of figs; the satin-sheeny fronds of the
graceful plantains were overlapped by clouds of the pale foliage of the
tamarind, while between and around all the young grass of the pastured
hillsides spread its emerald carpet. In free, bold, and yet graceful
outline the hills shut in the scene, swelling upward in full, dome-like
contour, here sweeping round to enclose within its hollow a gorgeous
plantain grove, there projecting boldly into abrupt, steep head-lands,
and again receding in a succession of noble terraces into regions as yet
unexplored by the white man. One village had a low, pebbly beach, that
ran in a sinuous, light-grey line between a darker grey face of the lake
and the living perennial green of a banana plantation. I imagine myself
fallen into an estate which I had inherited by right divine and human;
or at least I felt something akin to that large feeling which heirs of
unencumbered broad lands may be supposed to feel, and attributed such
an unusual feeling to an attack of perfect digestion, and a free,
unclogged, and undisturbed liver.”
On the 2d of April, Stanley proceeded along the beautiful shore
separating Buka Bay from Kadzi Bay, and halted about noon at the village
of Kirudo, here experiencing hospitalities similar to those of the
previous day.
Just as they were about to depart next morning they perceived six
beautiful canoes, crowded with men, coming round a point, and these they
were informed by their hospitable entertainer of Buka were the
_Kabaka’s_ people. In the middle of the bay of Kadzi they encountered,
and a most ceremonious greeting took place. The commander, a fine, lusty
fellow of twenty or thereabout, sprang into Stanley’s boat, and kneeling
before him, declared his errand in these words:
“The _Kabaka_ sends me with many salaams to you. He is in great hopes
that you will visit him, and has encamped at Usavara, that he may be
near the lake when you come. He does not know from what land you come;
but I have a swift messenger with a canoe who will not stop until he
gives all the news to the _Kabaka_. His mother dreamed a dream a few
nights ago, and in her dream she saw a white man on this lake in a boat
coming this way, and the next morning she told the _Kabaka_, and, lo!
you have come. Give me your answer, that I may send the messenger.”
Receiving his instructions from Stanley, through Magassa, who acted as
interpreter, the messenger immediately departed. Persuaded by Magassa to
rest for a day that he might be shown the hospitality of the country,
Stanley rowed to the village of Kadzi. Here Magassa was in his glory, as
shown by his imperious commands given on arrival of the guests and
escort:
“Bring out bullocks, sheep and goats, milk, and the mellowest of your
choicest bananas, and great jars of maramba, and let the white man and
his boatmen eat and taste of the hospitalities of Uganda. Shall a white
man enter the _Kabaka’s_ presence with an empty belly? See how sallow
and pinched his cheeks are! We want to see whether we cannot show him
kindness superior to what the pagans have shown him.”
“A wonderful land!” thought Stanley, “where an entire country can be
subjected to such an inordinate bully and vain youth as this Magassa at
the mere mention of the _Kabaka’s_ name, and very evidently with
_Kabaka’s_ sanction!”
The following day Stanley sallied from Kadzi Bay, with Magassa’s escort
leading the way, and at 10 A. M. entered Murchison Bay, camping behind
Soweh Island, on the east side of the bay.
Stanley’s account of his arrival at Usavara, and the reception accorded
him by the _Kabaka_ and his people, is highly interesting and graphic.
“Compared with our lonely voyage from our camp at Usukuma round all the
bays and inlets of the much-indented coasts of the great lakes,” says
Stanley, “the five superb canoes forming line in front of our boat,
escorting us to the presence of the great potentate of Equatorial
Africa, formed a scene which promised at least novelty, and a view of
some extraordinary pomp and ceremony.”
“When about two miles from Usavara, we saw what we estimated to be
thousands of people arranging themselves in order on a gently rising
ground. When about a mile from shore, Magassa gave the order to signal
our advance upon it with firearms, and was at once obeyed by his dozen
musketeers. Half a mile off I saw that the people on the shore had
formed themselves into two dense lines, at the ends of which stood
several finely-dressed men, arrayed in crimson and black and snowy
white. As we neared the beach volleys of musketry burst out from the
long lines. Magassa’s canoes steered outward to right and left, while
200 or 300 heavily-loaded guns announced to all around that the white
man--whom Mtesa’s mother had dreamed about--had landed. Numerous kettle
and bass drums sounded a noisy welcome, and flags, banners, and
bannerets waved, and the people gave a great shout. Very much amazed at
all this ceremonious and pompous greeting, I strode towards the great
standard, near which stood a short young man, dressed in a crimson robe
which covered an immaculately white dress of bleached cotton, before
whom Magassa, who had hurried ashore, kneeled reverently, and turning to
me begged me to understand that this short young man was the _Katekiro_.
Not knowing very well who the ‘Katekiro’ was, I only bowed, which,
strange to say, was imitated by him, only that his bow was far more
profound and stately than mine. I was complexed, confused, embarrassed,
and I believe I blushed inwardly at this regal reception, though I hope
I did not betray my embarrassment.
“A dozen well-dressed people now came forward, and grasping my hand
declared in the Swahili language that I was welcome to Uganda.”
Escorted to comfortable quarters, and after a somewhat extended
interview with the head men who had received him, Stanley and his men
were made the recipients of fourteen fat oxen, sixteen goats and sheep,
a hundred bunches of bananas, three dozen fowls, four wooden jars of
milk, four baskets of sweet potatoes, fifty ears of green Indian corn, a
basket of rice, twenty fresh eggs, and ten pots of maramba wine. Kauta,
Mtesa’s steward or butler, who accompanied the drovers and bearers of
these provisions, fell upon his knees before Stanley, and said:
“The _Kabaka_ sends salaams unto his friend who has travelled so far to
see him. The _Kabaka_ cannot see the face of his friend until he has
eaten and is satisfied. The _Kabaka_ has sent his slave with these few
things to his friend that he may eat, and at the ninth hour, after his
friend has rested, the _Kabaka_ will send and call for him to appear at
the burzah.”
At the ninth hour, as designated, two of the _Kabaka’s_ pages summoned
Stanley and his men to meet him. “The _Kabaka_, a tall, clean-faced,
large-eyed, nervous-looking, thin man, clad in a tarbush, black robe,
with a white shirt belted with gold, shook my hands warmly and
impressively,” says Stanley, “and, bowing not ungracefully, invited me
to be seated on an iron stool. I waited for him to show the example, and
then I and all the others seated ourselves.”
Stanley’s impression of this prince, as gathered from his
correspondence, is of extreme interest to the civilized world, and more
especially to the Christian Church. Mtesa impressed him as being an
intelligent and distinguished man, who, if aided in time by virtuous
philanthropists, would do more for Central Africa than fifty years of
Gospel teaching, unaided by such authority, could do.
“I think I see in him the light that shall lighten the darkness of this
benighted region--a prince well worthy the most hearty sympathies that
Europe can give him. In this man I see the possible fruition of
Livingstone’s hopes, for with his aid the civilization of Equatorial
Africa becomes feasible. I remember the ardor and love which animated
Livingstone when he spoke of Sekeletu. Had he seen Mtesa, his ardor and
love for him had been tenfold, and his pen would have been employed in
calling all men to assist him,” writes Stanley of this remarkable prince
and ruler.
On the 15th of April, Stanley returned to Usavara, after having spent a
fifteen days’ life at the Emperor’s Court at Rubaga.
The following extract of a letter, under date of April 14th, 1875,
written and sent to the “Daily Telegraph” and “New York Herald” from
this point, is a strong appeal for the establishment of a Christian
Mission in Uganda:
[Illustration: NATIVES OF UGANDA.]
“I have, indeed, undermined Islamism so much here that Mtesa has
determined henceforth, until he is better informed, to observe the
Christian Sabbath as well as the Moslem Sabbath, and the great captains
have unanimously consented to this. He has further caused the Ten
Commandments of Moses to be written on a board for his daily
perusal--for Mtesa can read Arabic--as well as the Lord’s Prayer and the
golden commandment of our Saviour, ‘Thou shalt love thy neighbor as
thyself.’ This is great progress for the few days that I have remained
with him; and though I am no missionary, I shall begin to think that I
might become one if such success is feasible. But, oh! that some pious,
practical missionary would come here! What a field and harvest ripe for
the sickle of Civilization! Mtesa would give him anything he
desired--houses, lands, cattle, ivory, etc. He might call a province his
own in one day. It is not the mere preacher, however, that is wanted
here. The bishops of Great Britain collected, with all the classic youth
of Oxford and Cambridge, would effect nothing by mere talk with the
intelligent people of Uganda. It is the practical Christian tutor, who
can teach people how to become Christians, cure their diseases,
construct dwellings, understand and exemplify agriculture, and turn his
hand to anything, like a sailor--this is the man who is wanted. Such an
one, if he can be found, would become the saviour of Africa. He must be
tied to no church or sect, but profess God and His Son and the moral
law, and live a blameless Christian, inspired by liberal principles,
charity to all men, and devout faith in Heaven. He must belong to no
nation in particular, but to the entire white race. Such a man or men,
Mtesa, Emperor of Uganda, Usoga, Unyoro, and Karagwé--an empire 360
geographical miles in length by 50 in breadth--invites to repair to him.
He has begged me to tell the white men that, if they will only come to
him, he will give them all they want. Now, where is there in all the
pagan world a more promising field for a mission than Uganda?”... “Then
why further spend, needlessly, vast sums upon black pagans of Africa who
have no example of their own people becoming Christians before them? I
speak to the Universities’ Mission at Zanzibar and to the Free
Methodists at Mombassa, to the leading philanthropists and the pious
people of England. Here, gentlemen, is your opportunity--embrace it! The
people on the shores of the Nyanza call upon you. Obey your own generous
instincts, and listen to them; and I assure you that in one year you
will have more converts to Christianity than all other missionaries
united can number. The population of Mtesa’s kingdom is very dense. I
estimate the number of his subjects at 2,000,000. You need not fear to
spend money upon such a mission, as Mtesa is sole ruler, and will repay
its cost tenfold with ivory, coffee, otter skins of a very fine quality,
or even in cattle, for the wealth of this country in all these products
is immense.”
On the 17th of April he resumed his voyage along the shores of the great
lake, and delightedly enjoyed the beautiful panorama of nature as it
passed in review before him. Many of the scenes presented most lovely
vistas to the eyes of Stanley as he scanned the ever-changing outlines
of water and sky. To follow him closely in his journeyings, and to enter
fully into all the minor details of his observations would require more
space than these pages afford. We can, therefore, but confine ourselves
to the most noted incidents that came under his observation, and such as
are of the most thrilling and adventurous character. As an instance, we
will give for the benefit of our readers one of Stanley’s pen pictures
of what he saw at this time. It was upon the island of Musira. He had
after some little difficulty scaled the summit of its highest point,
whence he gazed long on the grand encircling prospect. A halcyon calm
brooded on the lake, eastward, northward, and southward, until the clear
sky and stainless silver water met, the clear bounds of both veiled by a
gauzy vapor, suggesting infinity.
“It is a spot,” says Stanley, “from which, undisturbed, the eye may rove
over one of the strangest yet fairest portions of Africa--hundreds of
square miles of beautiful lake scenes--a great length of grey plateau
wall, upright and steep, but indented with exquisite inlets, half
surrounded by embowering plantains--hundreds of square miles of pastoral
upland dotted thickly with villages and groves of banana. From my lofty
eyrie I can see herds upon herds of cattle, and many minute specks,
white and black, which can be nothing but flocks of sheep and goats. I
can also see pale blue columns of ascending smoke from the fires, and
upright thin figures moving about. Secure on my lofty throne, I can view
their movements and laugh at the ferocity of the savage hearts which
beat in those thin dark figures; for I am a part of nature now, and for
the present as invulnerable as itself. As little do they know that human
eyes survey their forms from the summit of this lake-girt isle as that
the eyes of the Supreme in Heaven are upon them.
“What a land they possess! and what an inland sea! How steamers afloat
on the lake might cause Ururi to shake hands with Usongora, and Uganda
with Usukuma, make the wild Wavuma friends with the Wazinza, and unite
the Wakerawé with the Wagana!”
His experiences at Bumbireh Island were not so pleasant, however. Here,
when about ten yards from the beach, the natives, who had been invited
with engaging frankness to come closer, did so; and after consulting a
little while, leisurely advanced into the water until they touched the
boat’s prow. They stood a few seconds talking sweetly, when suddenly
with a rush they ran the boat ashore, and then all the others, seizing
hawser and gunwale, dragged her about twenty yards over the rocky beach
high and dry, leaving Stanley and his men almost stupefied with
astonishment.
“Then ensued a scene which beggars description,” says Stanley.
“Pandemonium--all its devils armed--raged around us. A forest of spears
was leveled; thirty or forty bows were drawn taut; as many barbed arrows
seemed already on the wing; thick, knotty clubs waved above our heads;
two hundred screaming black demons jostled with each other and struggled
for room to vent their fury, or for an opportunity to deliver one
crushing blow or thrust at us.
“In the meantime, as soon as the first symptoms of this manifestation of
violence had been observed, I had sprung to my feet, each hand armed
with a loaded self-cocking revolver, to kill and be killed. But the
apparent hopelessness of inflicting much injury upon such a large crowd
restrained me, and Safeni turned to me, though almost cowed to dumbness
by the loud fury around us, and pleaded with me to be patient. I
complied, seeing that I should get no aid from my crew; but, while
bitterly blaming myself for my imprudence in having yielded--against my
instincts--to placing myself in the power of such savages, I vowed that,
if I escaped this once, my own judgment should guide my actions in the
future.
[Illustration: THE DEMONS OF BUMBIREH.]
“Our demeanor had a great effect. The riot and noise seemed to be
subsiding, when some fifty newcomers rekindled the smouldering fury.
Again the forest of spears swayed on the launch, again the knotty clubs
were whirled aloft and the bows were drawn, and again the barbed arrows
seemed flying. Safeni received a push which sent him tumbling, little
Kirango received a blow on the head with a spear-staff, and Saramba gave
a cry as a club descended on his back.
“The elder, whatever he thought, responded with an affectation of
indignation, raised his stick, and to the right and left of him drove
back the demoniac crowd. Other prominent men now assisted this elder,
whom we subsequently discovered to be Shekka, the King of Bumbireh.
“Shekka having thus bestirred himself, beckoned to half-a-dozen men and
walked away a few yards behind the mass. It was the ‘Shauri,’ dear to a
free and independent African’s heart, that was about to be held. Half
the crowd followed the King and his council, while the other half
remained to indulge their violent, vituperative tongues on us, and to
continually menace us with either club or spear. An audacious party came
round the stern of the boat, and, with superlatively hideous gestures,
affronted me. One of them even gave a tug at my hair, thinking it was a
wig. I revenged myself by seizing his hand, and suddenly bending it
back almost dislocated it, causing him to howl with pain. His comrades
swayed their lances; but I smilingly looked at them, for all idea of
self-preservation had now almost fled.”
Next some of the boldest approached the boat and took away the oars, and
shortly thereafter messengers came demanding ransoms of cloths and
necklaces. These were delivered. After the warriors departed, some women
came to look at the invaders. Kindly spoken to, these gave the consoling
assurance that the invaders would be killed; but they said that if
Shekka could be induced to make blood-brotherhood, or to eat honey with
one of them, they would be safe. If that failed, there was only flight
or death. Stanley offered the Shekka three fundo of beads, and asked him
to exchange blood with him; but the King refused. Then fifty bold
fellows came rushing down the hill, uttering a shrill cry. Without
hesitation they came straight to the boat, seizing the Kiganda drum.
Loud applause followed this act of gallantry. Then came two others who
began to drive away some cows that were grazing between Stanley and the
village.
“Why do you do that?” asked Safeni, one of Stanley’s men.
“Because we are going to fight presently, and if you are men, you may
begin to prepare yourselves,” he scornfully replied.
“Thanks, my bold friend,” muttered Stanley to himself. “Those are the
truest words we have heard to-day.”
While the two men were retiring up the hill, Stanley directed Safeni to
take two fine red cloths in his hand, walk slowly up after them a
little way, and the moment he should hear his voice run back. His men he
commanded to arrange themselves on each side of the boat; lay their
hands on it carelessly, but with a firm grip, and when he should give
the word, push it with the force of a hundred men down the hill into the
water. His men all properly disposed as he had directed, he told Safeni
to advance with the red cloth.
Stanley says: “I waited until he had walked fifty yards away, and saw
that he acted precisely as I had instructed him. Then I shouted, ‘Push,
my boys; push for your lives!’
“The crew bent their heads and strained their arms; the boat began to
move, and there was a hissing, grinding noise below me. I seized my
double-barrelled elephant rifle and shouted, ‘Safeni! Safeni, return!’
“The natives were quick-eyed. They saw the boat moving, and with one
accord they swept down the hill uttering the most fearful cries.
“My boat was at the water’s edge. ‘Shoot her into the lake, my men;
never mind the water;’ and, clear of all obstructions, she darted out
upon the lake.
“Safeni stood for an instant on the water’s edge, with the cloths in his
hand. The foremost of a crowd of natives was about twenty yards from
him. He raised his spear and balanced himself. ‘Spring into the water,
man, head first,’ I cried.
“The balanced spear was about to fly, and another man was preparing his
weapon for a deadly cast, when I raised my gun and the bullet ploughed
through him and through the second. The bowmen halted and drew their
bows. I sent two charges of duck-shot into their midst with terrible
effect. The natives then retreated from that part of the beach on which
the boat had lately lain.
“The crew tore the bottom boards out of the boat and used them as
paddles. Meanwhile the savages, baffled and furious at seeing their prey
escape, had rushed, after a short consultation, to man two canoes that
were drawn up on the beach at the northwest corner of the cove. Twice I
dropped men as they endeavored to launch the boats; but they persisted,
and, finally launching them, pursued us vigorously. Two other canoes
were seen coming down the coast from the eastern side of the island.
Unable to escape, we stopped after we had got out of the cove, and
waited for them. My elephant rifle was loaded with explosive balls for
this occasion. Four shots killed five men and sank two of the canoes.
The two others retired to assist their friends out of the water. They
attempted nothing further. We were saved!”
The 30th of April Stanley and his crew reached Refuge Island, a hungry
and wearied-out set of people. Here they were very fortunate in
procuring some wild game and fruit, and rested several days.
The expedition, having now almost reached its journey’s end, the members
were all in good spirits, and, although the weather was somewhat
tempestuous during the remainder of the trip, there occurred nothing of
moment to mar the pleasant expectations they had in store, and which
they were permitted to realize with glad hearts on the 6th of May,
having been absent just fifty-seven days in making the circuit of
Victoria Nyanza.