The present artists in France and their productions, improvements
in Paris, fortifications, humanity to animals, education of
females, personal appearance of the French, army and navy,
scientific Societies, and commercial enterprises.
Never perhaps at any period was there so much encouragement given to the
arts and sciences in general in France as at the present, nor ever was
there a monarch who reigned over the French, who so much endeavoured to
promote every object which tended to usefulness, or to the advancement
of the fine arts. No country in the world has such advantages as France
for nurturing talent, and giving it the opportunity of developing
itself, so numerous are the societies and institutions where lectures
and instruction are afforded gratuitously, hence the great assistance to
young artists; without any expense or trouble, they are admitted into a
drawing academy, where they may acquire the fundamental principles of
the graphic art; afterwards there are other different establishments
which they can enter as their studies progress, and when they attain any
degree of proficiency, they have a chance of being sent at the expense
of government to Rome, to complete their studies, and if they excel to a
moderate degree, are sure to be employed by the King, or some member of
the royal family, or by the nation. With all these immense advantages,
how much might be expected of the French artists, but the fact does not
realise those hopes that might be justly formed from the solid
rudimental education which they have the power of receiving. The
exhibition this year at the Louvre of the paintings of the living
artists was a complete illustration of what I have stated, as every one
allows that it was far inferior to that of last year, which was
considered much worse than those of former years.
At the same time it must be admitted that several of the best artists
have not sent any pictures for the last few years, and particularly the
present, when amongst the absentees might be cited Ingres, Horace
Vernet, Ary Scheffer, Delaroche, etc., who it appears were all employed
by the King or government; the consequence was, although there was an
immense mass of large historical and scriptural subjects, it was what
might have been called a most sorry display. Amongst the number one
alone evinced a superiority of talent, and that was the taking of
Mazagran by Phillippoteaux, which really had considerable merit, and the
artist it appears passed some time in Algiers, and therefore was enabled
to give a faithful representation of the inhabitants of the country. Of
miscellaneous subjects, or what the French call _tableau de genre_,
there were many most exquisite pictures, amongst the rest, the Miller,
his Son and his Ass, by H. Bellangé, which was so full of character and
expression, that it needed not language to tell the tale; there were
also several other pieces by the same artist, possessing equal merit.
An Assembly of Protestants surprised by Catholic Troops, by Karl
Girardet, was a most superior picture in Wilkie's best style; Reading
the Bible, by Edward Girardet, also exceedingly clever; but one of the
most delightful pictures in the exhibition was by Gué, of Raymond of
Toulouse reconciling himself to the Church; I never yet saw any
performance of that artist but evinced some great merit, either the
finest imagination, the most beautiful execution, or the utmost truth to
nature, according to the subject he undertakes. I should certainly
pronounce Gué as one of the best artists who now send their pictures to
the Louvre; one he had two years since of the Crucifixion, at the annual
Exhibition, which certainly was a most sublime composition, the approach
of night, with a slight glare of parting light, was most admirably
represented, and gave a sort of wild gloom which so beautifully
harmonised with the nature of the subject; he had also introduced the
dead rising from their tombs, which contributed to augment the solemn
tone which pervaded the whole picture. However lightly or frivolously
the mind might be engaged, one glance at this exquisite painting must at
once strike awe into the beholder; it was true that there was a great
similarity with one on the same subject, in the Louvre, by Karel
Dujardin, but not sufficiently so to say it was borrowed, or to detract
from its merit. T. Johanot had but one picture this year, which was very
clever, as his always are; his subjects are mostly historical, and his
illustrations of Walter Scott are universally known and admired.
Schopin is another of the French artists whose pictures will always
live, his females are so truly graceful, such sweetness of expression in
their countenances; this year he did not shine so much as he has before,
having but one picture, which was from Ruth and Boaz, and the latter was
made to appear too old. A paralyzed old Man on an Ass, which his son was
leading, was a true picture of nature, by Leleux; the vigour of the one
and the feebleness of the other were admirably contrasted, although
rather flat from wanting more shade.
Of this description there were far too many pictures possessing merit
than I can afford room to cite, but amongst the portraits there were
some such wretched daubs, that they would have been a disgrace to any
country; in fact this is a branch in which the French are peculiarly
deficient, and in which we far surpass them. The portrait painter who
has now the greatest vogue is Winterhatter, who certainly has a great
degree of merit, but rather sacrifices the face to the drapery; his
picture of the Queen was very justly admired in many respects, but the
laboured accuracy with which the lace was given, was rendered so
conspicuous, that the eye fell upon the costume before it lighted upon
the features; this pleases the ladies, I am aware, who like to have an
exact map of their blonde and guipure, and it certainly is too much the
case that an artist is obliged to be more or less the slave of his
sitters and their friends; his miscellaneous pieces, where his pencil
roves freely, are all that is delightful. His portrait of the Comte de
Paris and the Duchess de Nemours, certainly display considerable talent.
Two favourite and fashionable portrait painters are Dubuffe and Court,
the works of the former are well known in England, they are exceedingly
attractive from their softness and brilliance, but they want the
crispness and tone of nature, the drawing also is sometimes defective.
These observations equally apply to both these artists. The younger
Dubuffe is rising rapidly in the estimation of artists. I have seen some
portraits very true to life by Coignet, Roller, Laure, Rouilliard, and
Vinchon; one of Sébastiani, by the latter, was quite nature itself.
There are several very clever painters of marine subjects, amongst
others Gudin and Isabey, and there is not any department which is more
encouraged by the King and the government; for the last several years
the former has had orders for at least a dozen each year, of naval
combats between France and her enemies, but those subjects which he
paints from his own spontaneous suggestions, are infinitely superior to
such as he executes to order. Fruits and flowers are branches of the art
in which the French artists particularly excel, one piece of flowers by
Bergon I think was one of the most perfect I have met with.
Latterly they have much advanced in their representation of cattle,
their sheep and cows are particularly good; some draught horses by Casey
were executed with infinite spirit, as also some wild horses by
Lepoitevin. Some delightful domestic pieces must excite admiration, of
fishermen, their wives and children, by Colin, very much in the style of
our own Collins, but not quite so good, as also others by Le Camus
Duval. Several interesting subjects attracted much of my attention, by
Henry Scheffer, Meissonnier, Bouchot, Dupré, Steuben, Rubio, Signol,
Charlet, Storelli, and a few others; in water colours the French are now
advancing with rapid strides, this year there were some exquisite
specimens in that department of painting, particularly by Heroult: but
the style in which the French now are most happy, is in what they call
_pastel_, which consists in a great variety of coloured chalks, rather
harder than what we understand by crayons; the manner in which they
execute portraits about a quarter the size of life, with these
materials, is surprising, it infinitely surpasses their oil portrait or
their miniatures. There are several foreign artists within the last two
years, who have sent their works to the Louvre which must not be passed
unnoticed, amongst the rest is a Spanish artist named Villa amil, whose
interiors are far above mediocrity, and who has given us some rich
specimens of Spanish monuments, which are now admirably illustrated in a
periodical lithographic work. Our countrymen, Messrs. Callow and Barker,
have also sent several pieces, which do them and their country credit,
the former, some beautiful subjects in water colours, and the latter of
varied descriptions, in some of which the game has been particularly
admired.
Miniature painting in France I should decidedly say was much inferior to
that of England, they are very fond of thick muddy back-grounds, their
colouring partakes of the same dirty hue, there is generally a stiffness
in the position, and much high finish without effect; there are
certainly some exceptions to this rule, at the head of which is Madame
Lezinska de Mirbel, whose miniatures are broad, bold, and natural, but
always plainer than the originals; there are a few others who have come
forward latterly, whose performances are above mediocrity. There were
some landscapes which evinced much talent, both as to composition and
execution; the selection of subjects being from some of the wild
romantic provinces of France and Switzerland, aided greatly in affording
them a certain degree of interest. Taking a comparative view of the
artists of England and France, there is no doubt, generally speaking,
that the latter are superior in drawing, and the former in colouring;
many of the French artists have latterly adopted a leady tone in their
flesh tints, which gives their figures a half dead appearance. With
whatever faults he may possess, I doubt if there be any other man that
can do so much as Horace Vernet; many may be found who may excel him in
the separate objects which he must introduce in a general historical
subject, as a landscape, an architectural building, a ship, a horse,
etc., might be better executed by such artists as have exclusively
studied any one of those subjects, but I do not think there is any
painter now living who could produce the _ensemble_ so well, and manage
to give the effect to the composition in the same masterly style as
Horace Vernet. Delaroche also has completed many pictures which with his
name will be immortal; the same may be said of Ary Scheffer, whilst
Ingres is known and cited all over Europe for the perfection of his
drawing, supposed to be the only man who could correctly draw the naked
human figure in any position without a model. In portrait and miniature
painting, landscapes and water colours, the French are still decidedly
inferior to the English artists.
With respect to sculpture, it is so far more encouraged in France than
in England, that of course the numbers who profess it are far more
numerous in the former country, and there is a great deal of talent to
be found amongst the present French sculptors, but perhaps not quite of
the highest class. I never have seen anything which I considered so
beautiful as Bailey's Eve, and I doubt whether there are any of them who
could produce a work equal to Gibson, or that could surpass Cockerill in
the representation of a horse, still most of their statues which have
been executed for the government, are certainly better than many of
those which have been placed in different parts of London.
There is a great taste for sculptural subjects in general throughout
Paris, numbers of houses which have been recently built are adorned with
statues, and an immense variety of devices and ornaments of different
descriptions, all of which afford employment for the young sculptor; in
fact there exists now quite a mania for decoration, and those mansions
which still remain of the middle ages present the same predilection for
rich carve-work and elaborate ornament which is now revived, and
undoubtedly it gives a very picturesque richness to the aspect of a
city. As a department of sculpture I certainly must not omit to state to
what a high degree the French have wrought the art of casting in bronze,
and I am sure I shall be procuring my readers a treat in directing them
to the establishment of M. De Braux d'Anglure, No. 8, Rue Castiglione;
they will there find an infinite variety of very splendid subjects, some
executed with the most exquisite delicacy, others in fine broad masses,
as animals the size of life, and some equestrian figures of the middle
ages after the first masters displaying the full merit of the original
designs. But that which is still more interesting is to visit M. De
Braux's foundry, and atelier, No. 15, Rue d'Astorg, where he takes a
pleasure in explaining the whole process requisite in casting the
different objects, and showing them throughout the various stages
through which they pass before they are completed. The French have
brought this art to a high perfection, which it appears is facilitated
by their having a peculiar sort of sand near Paris (which they cannot
find elsewhere), particularly serviceable for the purpose of casting.
The orders which come from England for works in bronze is immense;
whilst I was at M. de Braux's he was at work upon a bust of the Duke of
Wellington, which was part of what was to be a figure the size of life,
destined as a national monument (as M. de Braux understood) for some
part of London. The great art which he now practises, is that of casting
whole masses at once, instead of small bits which were joined together
according to the former method. Every amateur of the arts will find the
highest gratification in viewing the number of interesting objects which
present themselves in various forms at M. de Braux's atelier.
The shopkeepers and proprietors of coffee-houses, restaurants, etc.,
also have afforded much occupation to artists of moderate talent, having
reliefs and paintings introduced upon their walls, that are by no means
contemptible, and it is quite an amusement, in walking the streets of
Paris, to observe to what an extent it is carried; many of the new
houses in the most frequented thoroughfares, above the shops, are now so
handsome that if they were appropriated for national purposes would be
admired as public monuments, some of these may be remarked even in
several of the narrow shabby streets, only (as already stated) they are
compelled, by the Municipality, to build them a few feet farther back,
to give greater width to the street. One of the beauties and attractions
of Paris at the present period, is the Passages, in which are to be
found some of the most splendid assortments of every article which the
most refined luxury can desire; of such a description are the Passages
des Panoramas, Saumon, Choiseul, Vero-Dodat, Vivienne, Opera and
Colbert; in the latter is a Magasin de Nouveauté, styled the Grand
Colbert, which peculiarly merits the attention, both of the amateur and
the connaisseurs of such merchandise as will be found there displayed.
In Paris there are many establishments of this nature on the most
colossal scales, even surpassing in extent the far famed Waterloo House,
but in none is the public more honourably served, or treated with a
greater degree of courtesy and attention, than at the Grand Colbert; the
taste and discernment with which their stock is selected, does the
highest credit to the proprietors, and their premises being arranged and
decorated so as to resemble a Moresque temple, as the purchasers behold
spread around them in gay profusion all the rich and glowing tints which
Cashmere can produce, they may almost fancy that they are in some
oriental Bazaar, where the costly manufactures of those climes are
displayed for the admiring gaze of the delighted spectator. In the
choice of silks is developed the beau idéal of all that the genius, art,
and industry of Lyons can effect, which has been selected as regards the
tints and designs, with an artistical tact. A great advantage of this
establishment is that one partner is French, possessing that degree of
taste for which his countrymen are so justly celebrated in all that
relates to fancy goods, whilst the other partner is English, partaking
of that truly national character which pries deeply into the worth and
solidity of every article, before it is presented to the public. Thus
far I can speak from experience, having for sixteen years been
accustomed to purchase every thing I required at the Grand Colbert,
either in linen, drapery, mercery, hosiery, lace, millinery, etc. The
premises are entered from two different points, the Rue Vivienne, and
the Rue Neuve-des-Petits-Champs, of which streets it forms the corner.
The central position adds another recommendation to the stranger, being
close to the Palais Royal, in a street communicating with the Bourse,
and the most fashionable part of the Boulevards, but a few minutes' walk
from all the principal Theatres, at the back of the Royal Library, and
in fact in the midst of the most attractive and frequented parts of
Paris. Whilst a long range of immense squares of plate glass not only
have an ornamental appearance but have the effect of throwing so
powerful a light upon the premises that every possible advantage may be
afforded for the examination of the goods.
Just near this spot they are about to open a new street, which will be
on the spacious and handsome plan of those which have been recently
constructed; many others are projected on the same system, and will have
a most beneficial effect, in adding to the salubrity of the capital, by
clearing away a number of little dirty lanes and alleys, hundreds of
which have already been absorbed in the great improvements which have
been effected in Paris within my recollection. The extensive projects
which are in contemplation for the embellishing of the city, would cost
some hundreds of millions of francs to carry into effect, but could
have been executed, had not so large a sum been required for the
erection of the fortifications, which are proceeding, if not rapidly, at
any rate steadily. Concerning their utility or the policy of such a
measure, opinion is much divided, but the majority conceive that such
circumstances as could render them necessary are never likely to arrive,
as they consider that by keeping the frontiers always in the best state
of defense, there never could be any fear of an army reaching Paris, as
when it occurred under Napoleon, it was after the resources of France
had been exhausted by a war of upwards of twenty years, an event that in
all probability never could happen again, and that the immense outlay of
capital might be applied to purposes so much more calculated to promote
the welfare of the country. Others contend that supposing France to be
assailed by three armies, and even that she be victorious over two of
them, and it be not the case with the third, that force might march on
Paris, which might be immediately taken if it were open as at present,
whereas if fortified, the resistance it would be enabled to make would
give time for either of the victorious armies to come to its relief.
Whilst a third party pretend that the fortifications are intended more
to operate against Paris than in its defence; that in case of any
formidable popular commotion the surrounding cannon can be pointed
against the city and inhabitants, and any refractory bands that might be
disposed to pour in from the province to join the factious could be
effectually prevented entering Paris. Whatever may be the different
opinions on the subject, every one must regret such a tremendous expense
for almost a visionary object, whilst there is so much capital and
labour required for increasing the facilities of communication by means
of improved roads, canals, or railways from the opposite points of the
kingdom.
With respect to the ameliorations which have already been effected in
Paris, one may say that wonders have been accomplished, particularly in
regard to cleansing and paving the streets, and in all possible cases
opening and widening every available spot of ground, whereby a freer air
could be admitted. I cannot conceive how people formerly could exist in
such dirty holes emitting horrible odours, of which there still remain
too many specimens, wherein even the physical appearance of persons one
would imagine certainly must be affected, yet I have often remarked in
the midst of the narrowest and most unsightly looking streets of Paris,
numbers of persons with fresh colours and having a most healthy
appearance; it is true that there are now open spaces in all quarters,
from which a person cannot live more than about two hundred yards, the
Boulevards encircling Paris, and the Seine running through it with its
large wide quays, afford a free current of air all through the heart of
the city, then there are such a number of spacious markets, of _places_,
or, as we call them, squares, and of large gardens, which all afford
ample breathing room; whereas in London that is not the case, in many
parts, such as the city end of Holborn, Cheapside, Cornhill, Leadenhall
street, Whitechapel, etc., where you must go a long way to get any thing
like fresh air. That part of Paris termed La Cité, was the worst in that
respect, but such numbers of houses have been swept away round
Notre-Dame, that they have now formed delightful promenades with trees
and gravelled walks.
The French are extremely fond of anything in the shape of a garden, and
you come upon them sometimes where you would least expect to find them
at the backs of houses, in the very narrow nasty little streets to which
I have alluded, but if they have no space of ground in which they can
raise a bit of something green, they will avail themselves of their
balconies, their terraces, their roofs, parapets, and I have often seen
a sort of frame-work projecting from their windows, containing flowers
and plants. They evince the same partiality for animals, to whom they
are extremely kind, and in several parts of Paris there are hospitals
for dogs and cats, where they are attended with the utmost care. I was
much amused the first time I heard of such an establishment; I went with
a lady to pay a visit to a friend, and after the usual enquiries, the
question of how is Bijou was added, in a most anxious manner: the answer
was given with a sigh. "Oh! my dear, he is at the hospital," and then
continued the lady in a somewhat less doleful tone, "but fortunately he
is going on very well, and in another week we hope he will be able to
come out." I thought all the while that they must be alluding to a
servant of the family, who had been sent to the hospital, when the lady
I had accompanied exclaimed, "Poor dear little creature." This somewhat
puzzled me, and whilst I was pondering on what it could all mean, the
other lady observed, "It is such a nice affectionate animal," and at
last I found out it was a dog which excited so much sympathy.
I have also observed the same kind consideration towards their horses,
and remember once seeing the driver of a cabriolet take off his great
coat to cover his horse with it, and certainly at present I do not
perceive any practical proof of what used to be said of Paris, that it
was a "hell for horses, and a heaven for women," and as to the latter
case it is very evident that the females work much more than they do in
England, particularly amongst the middle-classes; accounts being
strictly attended to in the course of their education, enables them to
render most important aid in the establishments either of their husbands
or brothers, to which they devote themselves with much cheerfulness and
assiduity, arising from the manner in which they are brought up. Indeed
the general system observed in female boarding-schools in Paris is very
commendable, and as there are numbers of the English whose circumstances
will not permit of their residing in France, yet are extremely desirous
that their children should acquire a perfect knowledge of the French
language, I know not any service that I can render such persons more
important than that of recommending a seminary, in which I can
confidently state that they will not only receive all the advantages of
an accomplished education, but also be treated with maternal care; of
such a description is the establishment of Madame Loiseau. Having known
several young ladies who had been there brought up, and hearing them
always express themselves in the most affectionate manner of its
mistress, whilst the parents added their encomiums to those of their
children, I was tempted to pay Madame Loiseau a visit, that I might be
empowered to recommend her establishment, by having the advantage of
ocular demonstration added to that of oral testimony.
I have known several boarding-schools in my own country, but never any
one which was superior in regard to the extreme of neatness and
cleanliness, or possessing a more perfect system of regularity, which
appears to prevail in that of Madame Loiseau; although mine was rather
an early morning call, yet all was in the nicest order. The house, which
is in the Rue Neuve de Berri, No. 6, just close to the Champs Elysées,
the favourite quarter of the English, is most advantageously situated,
facing a park, and at the back is a good sized garden, with shaded
walks, well calculated for the recreation of the pupils, and there is
besides a spacious gymnasium, where the young ladies can always practise
those exercises so much recommended for the promotion of health, when
the weather will not permit of taking the air. The premises are so
extensive, that different rooms are appropriated for different studies,
the one for drawing, another for writing, several for music, etc.,
etc.; there is a chapel attached to the establishment, which is adapted
to those who are of the Catholic persuasion, whilst the English
Protestant pupils are sent with a teacher of their own country, either
to the Ambassador's or to the Marboeuf English chapel, both of which
are near to the residence of Madame Loiseau. The masters for the
different accomplishments are judiciously selected, and although much
attention is devoted to enriching the minds of the pupils with the
beauties of literature, and elegant acquirements, Madame Loiseau takes
still more pains in instructing them in every social duty, towards
rendering them exemplary, either as daughters, wives, or mothers. In
case of any pupils proving unwell, apartments are appropriated to them,
separated from the dormitories, where they receive the most assiduous
attention; baths are amongst other conveniences contained within the
establishment. The table is most liberally supplied, and on those days
which are observed as fasts by the catholics, joints are prepared for
the protestants, the same as upon other days. The terms are moderate,
proportioned to the advantages which are offered.
The physical appearance of the French strikes me as having undergone a
considerable change; when I was a child, I can remember a host of
emigrants who used to live mostly about Somers Town, and impressed me
with the idea of their being tall and meagre, exactly as I was
accustomed to see them represented in the caricatures; I remember
particularly remarking that they had thin visages, hollow cheeks, long
noses and chins, that I used to observe they were all features and no
face, they had besides a sort of grouty snuffy appearance; of the
females I have less recollection, except that I thought they looked
rather yellow, and generally took snuff. When I came to France,
therefore, I was very much struck with the change, particularly in the
young men, whom I found with small features, and generally round faces,
of the middle height, and well made, not so dark or so pale as I
expected to find them. The same description applies to the females;
there is not so much red and white as we are accustomed to see in
England, nor the soft blue eye, nor flaxen nor golden hair, nor
generally speaking such fine busts, and I know not why, but the French
women have almost always shorter necks, but they have mostly very pretty
little feet and ankles, and although their features may not be regular
or handsome, taken separately, yet the ensemble is generally pleasing;
their eyes are fine and expressive, and after all, in my opinion,
expression is the soul of beauty. The female peasantry of France take no
pains in guarding against the sun and wind, but merely wear caps,
consequently get very much tanned, and look old very soon: whereas the
Englishwomen preserve their appearance much longer by wearing bonnets,
and particularly pokes, which effectually shelter the face. The sun also
has more power in most parts of France, and the women work harder than
in England, therefore cannot wear so well.
Proportioned to the price of provisions, wages are higher in France than
in England; you cannot have an able bodied man in Paris, for the lowest
description of work, for less than 40 sous a day, those who are now
working at the fortifications have 50, that being the minimum, and if a
person understand any trade, 3, 4, and 5 francs are the usual prices,
and those who are considered clever at their business often get more.
But many a young man's advancement in life is impeded by the
conscription; it often occurs that an industrious shopman, or artisan,
has with economy saved some hundred francs, when he is drawn for the
army, and glad to appropriate his little savings towards procuring him
some comforts more than the common soldier is allowed; the troops
generally are very quiet and orderly behaved, in the different towns
where they are quartered, but the infantry have not a very brilliant
appearance, having found small men so very active and serviceable in
climbing the rocks, enduring fatigue, and braving all kinds of
impediments, men two inches shorter than would have before been
received, were admitted into the ranks, the consequence is that the
regiments of the line now make but a poor display, as regards the height
of the men, and indeed in their manner of marching, and carrying their
muskets, some nearly upright others more horizontally, they have not a
regular orderly appearance, like many of the other troops on the
Continent; most of the largest sized men are taken up for the cavalry,
and very well looking fellows they many of them are, particularly in
the Carabineers, which, in regard to the height of the men, is a
remarkably fine regiment, but might be much more so, if the government
paid that attention which is devoted by other powers to the selections
for their choice regiments; in the Carabineers there are men as much as
six feet three, and four, and others as short as five feet ten, whilst
in other regiments, such as the Lancers and Dragoons, they have here and
there men above six feet, which if placed in the Carabineers, and those
who were the shortest in that corps removed into the others, all those
regiments would be improved, as being rendered more even, whilst the
Carabineers would then be equal in appearance, with regard to the men,
to any regiment in the world. With respect to the horses, it would be
more difficult to render it as perfect as our Life Guards, and as to
their bridles and equipments in general (except their regimentals) there
is often an inequality and want of care and attention as to uniformity
of appearance, but throughout all the French cavalry, the men have an
excellent command over their horses. I have been at many grand reviews
both in France and in England, and in the former I never saw a man
thrown, whereas in the latter it has frequently occurred, either from
the horse falling or other circumstances.
With regard to the French army in general, the effect is that of the men
having individually a degree of independent appearance, or as if each
man acted for himself, instead of being as one solid machine set in
motion as it were by a sort of spring, which moving the whole mass, all
the parts must operate together. The French infantry, in point of
marching, are an exact contrast to the most highly disciplined troops of
Russia and Prussia, who pretend to assert that they have regiments who
can march with such extreme steadiness and regularity, that every man
may have a glass of wine upon his head and not a drop will be spilt;
attempt the same thing with a French regiment, and wine and glass would
soon be on the ground, and in all their military proceeding there is an
apparent slovenliness and irregularity, a want of closeness and
compactness in their movements; with regard to outward appearance, the
National Guard have the advantage on a field day, as there is a sort of
_esprit du corps_ between the legions, which causes them to take great
pains with regard to the _tenue_ of their respective battalions; but
after all, the great force of the French army is _enthusiasm_, and that
would be excited to a much greater degree in a war with England, than
with any other power, because they have been so taunted by the English
press, with the old absurd doctrine, viz., that one Englishman can beat
three Frenchmen, and several papers lately raked up the battles of
Cressy, Poitiers, Agincourt, etc., but the reply of the French is
indisputable, that those successes were most efficiently revenged, when
it is remembered that England was in possession of the whole of the
provinces of Guienne, Normandy, great part of Picardy and French
Flanders, some portions of which were under England for nearly 500
years, but that we were overcome in such a succession of battles, that
ultimately we were beaten out of every acre we had left in France;
Calais, which surrendered to the Duke de Guise, in the reign of Mary,
being the last place which we retained. These of course, as historical
facts, cannot be denied. But I certainly do consider that portion of the
English press much to blame, in recurring to events so distant, for the
purpose of wounding national feeling; the effect has been to provoke
reply on the part of the French press, and in all the virulence of party
spirit, in defending their country against the odium cast upon her, they
have been led into some of the most illiberal statements which have had
a very baneful effect upon many persons, in exciting an extreme
irritation against England; but generally speaking, the French people,
if left alone, do not desire war with the English; if it were only for
the sake of their interests, it is natural for the French to wish for
peace with England, as her subjects are amongst the most liberal
purchasers of the produce of the soil and manufactures of France.
The party the most anxious for war with England, is the navy, and they
bitterly feel the sting which goads within them, of their having been so
beaten by our fleets, and pant for an opportunity to efface the stain
which they certainly do feel now tarnishes the honour of their flag.
They consider, also, that the circumstances under which they were
opposed to the forces of England, were so disadvantageous, that no
other result could have been expected than such as occurred, as when the
war broke out in 1793, France had not one experienced admiral in the
service; all possessing any practical knowledge of naval affairs, being
staunch adherents to the royal cause, had either quitted France, or
retired from the navy, de Grasse, d'Éstaing, Entrecasteux, d'Orvilliers,
Suffren, Bougainville and several others. The consequence was, that the
command of the fleets were given to men who acquitted themselves very
ably in the management of a single vessel, but were not at all competent
to the office with which the necessity of circumstances invested them,
and although there were several encounters between the frigates of the
two nations, in which the reputation of both were well sustained, yet of
the power of so doing, the French were soon deprived, by Napoleon, who
at one period in his ardour for military glory, sacrificed the navy, by
taking from it the best gunners in order to supply his artillery; also
the choicest and ablest men were selected wherever they could be found,
to fill up the ranks of the army, which were being constantly thinned by
the universal war which he was always waging with the greater part of
Europe. The ships were then manned with whatever refuse could be picked
up, and a Lieutenant Diez told me, that the crew of the vessel to which
he belonged was such, that they had not above twenty men who could go
aloft, and had they met with an English vessel of the same size, they
must have been taken without the least difficulty. But the officers in
the present French navy know that the case is now very different, for
the last twenty years the greatest attention has been devoted to that
arm, which is candidly acknowledged on the part of our naval officers,
of which I remember an instance at Smyrna, whilst dining at the English
consul's with eight or ten of them, being the commanders of the ships
which composed the English fleet, then lying at Vourla, when the
conversation falling upon the French navy, it was observed that nothing
could be more perfect than its state at that period, every man, down to
a cabin boy, knowing well his duty, and all the regulations and
manoeuvres being carried on with such perfect order and regularity.
There are however some advantages which we still maintain, afforded by
our foreign commerce being the most extensive, enabling us always to
have a greater number of sailors, and generally speaking more
experienced seamen, and a French naval captain who has seen a good deal
of service, once observed that there was another point in which we had a
superiority, and that was with respect to our ship's carpenters, which
was particularly illustrated in the combat at Navarin, as the morning
after the action the English were far in advance of the French, with
regard to the repairs which had been rendered necessary from the damages
which had been sustained.
The French now have several officers who are experienced practical men,
in whom the navy has great confidence, as, Admirals Duperré, Hugon,
Rosamel, Lalande, Beaudin, Roussin, Bergeret, Mackau, Casey, etc., all
of whose names have been before the public in different affairs in which
they have created their present reputation. During the present reign,
every means has been adopted to infuse within the minds of the French an
interest for naval affairs, hence apartments have been fitted up in the
Louvre, as before stated, with models, and representations of all
connected with a ship, whilst the best artists have been employed to
paint different naval actions, which have reflected honour on the French
flag, and really I had no idea that they could have cited so many
instances, in regard to encounters with our shipping, but on reference
to James's Naval History, they will be found mainly correct, giving some
latitude for a little exaggeration in their own favour, a habit to which
I believe every nation is more or less prone. The government have
certainly succeeded beyond their wishes, in engendering an extreme
anxiety in the people with regard to the navy, which has just been
elicited, in the singular anomaly of the opposition voting on the motion
of M. Lacrosse a greater sum by three millions of francs for the navy
than the minister demanded. With an eye also to the marine,
Louis-Philippe has made some sacrifices to the promotion and extension
of foreign commerce, and not without a considerable degree of success.
There is not at present any branch of art, science, or industry, that
the French are not making great exertions to encourage, for that object
many societies and companies are formed, of which I will state a few of
the most important. There are four societies styled Athenæum, the Royal,
which is at the Palais-Royal, No. 2, devoted to literature, and three
others at the Hôtel de Ville for music, for medicine, and for the arts.
The Geographical Society, Rue de l'Université, 23. Royal Antiquarian
Society, Rue des Petits-Augustins, No. 16. Asiatic Society, and for
elementary Instruction, Agriculture, Moral Christianity, No. 12, Rue
Taranne. Society for universal French Statistics, Place Vendôme, 24. The
Protestant Bible Society of Paris, Rue Montorgueil. Geological Society,
Rue du Vieux-Colombier, No. 26. Philotechnic Society, No. 16, Rue des
Petits-Augustins. Philomatic Society, Entomological, and for natural
History, No. 6, Rue d'Anjou, Faubourg St. Germain. Society for
intellectual Emancipation, No. 11, Rue St. Georges, as also a variety of
other medical, surgical, phrenological, etc., etc., a number of schools
besides those I have already alluded to, veterinary, for mosaic work,
technography, and other purposes.
Although I have observed that in great commercial undertakings, the
French are very slow and cautious, yet they are progressing visibly;
there are now thirty-four coal mines at work in various parts of France,
belonging to different public companies more or less flourishing,
besides private enterprises, 16 more in agitation where coal has been
found, and societies formed but not yet in active operation, and 15 now
working in Belgium, of which the sharers are principally French. There
are twenty Asphalte and Bitumen companies. Thirty-five Assurance
companies, between twenty and thirty railway ditto, about the same
number for canals and nearly as many for steam boats, and for bridges
projected about 20, for gas, 14, for the bringing into cultivation the
marshes and waste lands, 7, for markets, bazaars, and dépôts, 10, and
for manufactures of glass, earthenware, soap and a variety of other
things, there are about forty more public companies. These are such as
now still offer their shares for sale; there are many others which have
been for a length of time established, which no longer issue either
advertisement or prospectus, but when enterprises of this kind are
undertaken in France they generally succeed.