civilization, and strengthened with the assurance that highly respected
persons at such a distance took a deep interest in the results of our
proceedings, I resolved not to linger a moment longer in this place, but
rather to forego the company of my amiable friend, particularly as I
knew that he was going to Múniyo, and therefore, after a few days’
march, would at all events separate from me. And I did well; for my
friend did not reach Kúkawa before the middle of May, that is, six weeks
after me. Such are the Arabs, and woe to him who relies upon them! The
same thing happened to me on my successful return from Bórnu to the
coast in 1855. Every body assured me that the caravan was to leave
immediately: but I went on alone in May, and reached Tripoli in August,
while the caravan did not reach Múrzuk before March, 1856.
I therefore sent to Dan-Tanóma, begging him to furnish me with a
horseman who would escort me to Máshena, and he assented. It was a
hazardous and troublesome undertaking: I had only one servant, faithful,
but young, and who had never before travelled this road; besides a
little boy, delicate in body and unsteady in mind, and I was sure that I
myself should have to do half the work, as well in loading and unloading
the camels as in pitching the tent, and looking after everything.
[Sidenote: Monday, March 17th.]
Having taken a hearty leave of ʿAbd el Khafíf, I followed my camels
and—my good luck. This was the first time on my journey that I travelled
quite alone, and I felt very happy, though, of course, I should have
been glad to have had one or two good servants.
The country on the east side of Gúmmel, at least at this time of the
year, presented a very dull and melancholy appearance, and the most
decided contrast to that cheerful and splendid scenery which is peculiar
to the landscape round Kanó. Nevertheless, it seemed to be well
inhabited, and we passed several places, some of them of tolerable size,
and surrounded with earthen walls, of very inconsiderable elevation, and
ditches; the courtyards, especially in the first town which we passed,
the name of which is Kadángaré, “the lizard” in Háusa, were wide and
spacious. A little later in the season the drought must be terribly felt
in these quarters; for even at present we had great difficulty in
watering our horses and filling a waterskin. Trees of good size became
continually more scarce, but the country was still well inhabited, and
after ten o’clock, near the little town Gósuwa, surrounded likewise by a
low earthen wall, we reached a small market-place, consisting of about
thirty stalls, where a market is held every Sunday; the town, however,
was not thickly inhabited, and near its north-east corner especially
there were large empty spaces.
Beyond this place the country became a little richer in trees, and we
here passed a large village-called Gáreji, where a path branches off
leading to Maimágariá, a road generally taken by caravans. The
population of all these places is composed of Bórnu and Háusa people,
and many particular customs might be observed hereabouts, which are
rather peculiar to the latter race. Dull as the country appeared, a
feeling of tranquillity and security was communicated by the sight of
little granaries, such as I have described above, scattered about
without any protection in the neighbourhood of some villages. After we
had passed the empty market-place of the little walled town Kábbori, the
surface of the ground had a very peculiar look, being covered entirely
with colocynths, which were just in maturity. About a mile and a half
further on we took up our quarters in Benzári, a town belonging to the
province of Máshena, or Másena, and were well received and hospitably
treated by the Ghaladíma. The town is separated into two parts by a
spacious opening, wherein is the principal well which supplies almost
the whole population, but its depth is considerable, being more than
twenty fathoms. Here we filled our waterskin the next morning, before we
set out.
[Sidenote: March 18th.]
Scarcely had we left Benzári behind us when my ears were struck by the
distant sound of drums and singing, and I learnt on inquiry that it was
Bokhári, or, as the Bórnu people call him, Bowári, the deposed governor
of Khadéja,[44] and the brother of Áhmedu, the present ruler of that
town. Bokhári’s name was then new, not only to me, but even to the
natives of the neighbouring provinces. He had been governor of Khadéja,
but being a clever and restless man he, or rather his jealous brother,
had excited the suspicion of his liege lord ʿAlíyu, the ruler of Sókoto,
who had deposed him and given the government to his brother Áhmedu,
whereupon Bokhári had nothing else to do but to throw himself upon the
hospitality and protection of the Bórnu people, who received him with
open arms, the governor of Máshena, with the sanction of his liege lord
the sheikh of Bórnu, assigning to him a neighbouring place, Yerímarí,
for his residence. This is an incident of very frequent occurrence in
these loosely connected empires; but it is particularly so with the
Fúlbe, among whom one brother often cherishes the most inveterate hatred
against another. Exactly the same thing we have seen already in Kátsena.
Bokhári having remained some time quietly in this place, strengthening
his party and assisted underhand with arms and men by the vizier of
Bórnu, had just now set out to try his fortune against his brother, and
was beating the drums in order to collect as many people as possible.
Predatory incursions are nothing new in these quarters, where several
provinces and entirely distinct empires have a common frontier; but
this, as the event proved, was rather a memorable campaign for the whole
of this part of Negroland, and was to become “the beginning of sorrows”
for all the country around. For Bokhári having taken the strong town of
Khadéja, and killed his brother, was not only able to defend himself in
his new position, vanquishing all the armies sent against him, and
amongst them the whole military force of the empire of Sókoto, which was
led on by the vizier in person, ʿAbdu the son of Gedádo, Clapperton’s
old friend, but spread terror and devastation to the very gates of Kanó.
Indeed, on my second journey through these regions, I shall have the sad
duty of describing the state of misery into which districts, which on my
former visit I had found flourishing and populous, had been reduced by
this warlike chieftain, who instead of founding a strong kingdom and
showing himself a great prince, chose rather, like most of his
countrymen, to base his power on the destruction and devastation of the
country around him, and to make himself a slave-dealer on a grand scale.
Tens of thousands of unfortunate people, pagans as well as Mohammedans,
unprotected in their wellbeing by their lazy and effeminate rulers, have
from the hands of Bokhári passed into those of the slave-dealer, and
have been carried away from their native home into distant regions.
Kept in alarm by the drumming, and making some not very tranquillizing
reflections on the weakness of our little band, which consisted of three
men and a boy, in the turbulent state of the country through which we
were passing, we continued silently on, while the character of the
landscape had nothing peculiarly adapted to cheer the mind. Cultivation
beginning to cease, nothing was to be seen but an immense level tract of
country covered with the monotonous _Asclepias gigantea_, with only a
single poor _Balanites_ now and then. But the scene became more animated
as we approached Chifówa, a considerable town surrounded by a low
earthen wall, which I was greatly astonished to hear belonged still to
the territory of Gúmmel, and was also assigned to Bokhári during his
exile. The boundary between the provinces must run here in a very waving
line.
All that I observed here testified that the Háusa population still
greatly predominated; and as we had to turn close round the place on the
north side, where the ground rose, we had a fine view over the whole
interior of the town. It presented a very animated spectacle; and a
large number of horsemen were assembled here, evidently in connection
with the enterprise of Bokhári, while men and women were busy carrying
water into the town from a considerable distance. Of cultivation,
however, very few traces appeared; but a good many cattle and sheep, and
even some camels, were seen grazing about. In Kaselúwa also, the next
town, we were complimented with the usual Háusa salute. Having then
passed through a monotonous tract of country covered with tall reed-
grass and with the _Asclepias_, we reached the town of Yélkazá at half-
past nine o’clock in the morning. Here the governor of the province of
Máshena, who generally has his residence in the town of the same name,
was staying at present, apparently on account of the expedition of
Bokhári, which he was assisting underhand; and I accordingly had to pay
him my compliments, as my horseman, who was a servant of Dan Tanóma,
could not well conduct me any further.
We therefore entered the town by the north gate, and found people very
busy repairing the fortification, consisting of two walls and three
ditches of considerable depth, two of which ran outside round the outer
wall, while the third was inclosed between the two walls.
Having presented ourselves at the residence of the governor, which was
situated in the middle of the town, and consisted altogether of reed-
work, we obtained good quarters, with a spacious and cool shed, which
was the only thing we wanted; for being anxious not to lose any more
time, I had resolved to start again in the afternoon. In order,
therefore, to obtain a guide as soon as possible, I went to pay my
compliments to the governor, whose name was Mohammed. After a little
delay, he came out of the interior of his reed house into the audience-
hall, which likewise consisted entirely of reed-work, but was spacious
and airy; there he sat down upon a sort of divan, similar to the ánkaréb
used in Egypt, and made of the branches of the tukkurúwa, which had been
brought in expressly for the purpose. My interview, however, was short,
for neither was he himself a lively or inquisitive man, nor was my Tébu
servant, whom, as I myself was not yet able to speak Kanúri with
tolerable fluency, I was obliged to employ as interpreter, at all
distinguished either by eloquence or by frankness, though in other
respects he was an excellent lad.
I obtained, however, all that I wanted, the governor assigning me
immediately a man who should accompany me to Ghaladíma ʿOmár, the
governor of Búndi, and I was glad that he did not grumble at my present,
which consisted only of a small phial of rose oil and a quarter of a
pound of cloves. The best and most usual present for the governors on
this road, who are justly entitled to some gift, as no tolls are to be
paid, is a subéta, or white shawl with red or yellow border, such as are
brought from Egypt, which may be accompanied with some spices. The old
man also sent me, after a little while, when I had returned to my
quarters, a dish which at least was not richer than my present,
consisting in a very unpalatable paste of Negro corn, with a nasty sauce
of míya, or molukhíya. Háusa with its delicacies was behind us; and I
was unable to procure, either for hospitality’s sake or for money, a
dish of “fura,” which I had become very fond of.
The heat was very great, though a light fresh breeze from the east made
it supportable; and my new guide seemed by no means so anxious to go on
as I was, so that I was obliged to search for him a long while. Having
at length laid hold of him we started, passing through an undulating
country without cultivation, and covered only with brushwood, and with
the dreadfully monotonous káwo or _Asclepias_, when after three miles it
became a little varied by underwood, the scene being enlivened by a
karábka, or káfila, with nine camels coming from Kúkawa.
Thus we approached Taganáma, a considerable town, inclosed with a wall
and a double ditch. We were obliged, however, to go round the whole
town, the western gate being closed, and a sort of outwork, such as is
very rare in these countries, consisting in a cross ditch projecting to
a great distance, being made at its north-east corner. At length we
reached the eastern gate, and entered the town. Its interior left on us
an impression of good order and comfort; all the fences of the
courtyards were in excellent repair, the huts large and spacious, and a
certain air of wellbeing was spread over the whole place.
Having obtained tolerable quarters, and corn for my guide’s horse and my
own, we lay down early, in order to continue our journey with the first
dawn next morning, but were roused at midnight by some people arriving
and stating, with an air of great importance, that they had letters for
me. Greatly surprised, and wondering what these important despatches
could be, I got up, but found, when I had kindled a light, that the
letters were not for me at all, but addressed to persons in Kúkawa
unknown to me, by others in Kanó not better known. These unknown friends
most probably, after I had fairly set out, had determined not to let
slip this excellent opportunity of communicating with their friends in
Kúkawa. However, the carriers of the letters thinking, and perhaps
expressly made to think, that they had brought some important message
for me, expected a handsome present; and I had some difficulty in
persuading them that they were only giving me trouble for the sake of
other people. Nevertheless, as they were unprovided with food, I ordered
Mohammed to cook a supper for them; and after having disturbed my
night’s rest by their noisy conversation, they made off again long
before day-light. For in this whole district, where so many different
nationalities border close together, the greatest insecurity reigns, and
the inhabitants of one town cannot safely trust themselves to those of a
neighbouring place without fear of being sold as slaves, or at least of
being despoiled of the little they have.
My fine lancer, with whose manly bearing I had been very much pleased
yesterday, appeared to have thought that, instead of exposing himself
alone, by accompanying me further through a disturbed and infested
district, he would do better to retrace his steps in the company of
these people; for the next morning he was gone, and no trace of him was
to be found. Perhaps he was anxious to join the expedition against
Khadéja, where the soldier might make his fortune, while with me he
could only expect to gain a few hundred shells; but whatever was his
reason for decamping, he left me in a state of great perplexity, as I
was in a hurry to go on as fast as possible, and in a country where
there are no highroads, but where even tracks so important as that from
Kanó to Kúkawa are nothing but small paths leading from one village or
from one town to another, I could not well dispense with a guide. As
regards security, I could only rely upon Providence and my own courage.
Having in vain searched for my man, I loaded the camels, and mounting my
horse, proceeded to the residence of the governor, who is the vassal of
the ruler of Máshena. He, having been informed by his servants, soon
came forth, a tall imposing figure, and seeing that my complaint was
just, his liege lord having expressly assigned me the horseman in order
to conduct me to Búndi, he assured me that he would find another guide
for me; but as it would take some time, he ordered one of his servants
to lead me out of the town to a place where the camels meanwhile might
graze a little. Seeing that he was a just and intelligent man, I thanked
him for his kindness, and followed his servant, who conducted us a few
hundred yards from the town, where there was most excellent pasturage
for the camels.
While we were waiting here for the guide, my companion, who was a
sociable sort of man, helped me to pass the time most agreeably with his
instructive talk. I had observed a very curious object at the governor’s
house,—a leathern parcel of considerable dimensions, tied up with great
care and hung on a long pole, and I had fancied that it contained the
body of a criminal exposed there to every man’s sight as a warning
example of severe punishment; but to my great astonishment I now learned
that it was a powerful talisman suspended in order to protect the town
against the Felláta, as the Bórnu people call the Fúlbe, whose inroads
were greatly feared. He likewise informed me that four years ago there
was a desperate struggle for Taganáma, when that town very narrowly
escaped falling into the hands of those fanatical invaders. He praised
his master, whose name as I now learned was Ísa. The cheerful aspect of
the town seemed fully to confirm his praises, and I expressed my hope
that his watchfulness and energy might be a better safeguard to the
inhabitants than that monstrous talisman, the dimensions of which were
really frightful.
I was greatly pleased also to observe here the very first signs of
preparing the ground for the approaching season, the slaves being busy
clearing the soil with a sort of strong rake provided with four long
wooden teeth, called “kámga;” but this is very rarely done, and the
preparatory labours of agriculture must differ more or less in different
districts according to the peculiar nature of the ground.
At length we saw the guides coming towards us. Instead of a horseman
there were two archers on foot[45], short muscular men, clad only with a
leathern apron round their loins, and for arms bearing, besides bow and
arrows, the peculiar little Mánga battle-axe, which they carry on their
shoulders, while a good sized leathern pocket for carrying provisions,
and several diminutive garra bottles hung down by their sides. In short,
they were real Mánga warriors, though they certainly did not inspire us
with all the confidence which we should have wished to repose in a
guide. However, having made them promise in the presence of the
governor’s servant, who professed to know them well, that they would
accompany me to Búndi, I started with them.
Having lost the finest hours of the morning, I was naturally anxious not
to waste more time; and I was glad to perceive that the fine eastern
breeze, which had prevailed for some days, greatly lessened the power of
the sun. Soon afterwards we met the brother of the governor of Máshena,
with a troop of twelve horsemen, hastening towards the point where the
memorable campaign of Bokhári was to commence. The country was very
monotonous, being soon covered with a forest of mean growth,
uninterrupted by any tree of larger size, except the bare dismal-looking
kuka or monkey bread-tree, and presented evident signs of destructive
warfare waged throughout it; we passed the former sites of several small
towns and villages. The soil consisted here of deep white sand.
After a march of about eight miles, however, the vegetation began to
assume a different character, the ngílle or dúm-bush first appearing,
then a karáge or gáwo (the locust-tree) being seen now and then, after
which the dúm-palm began to prevail entirely. The substratum of this
district is evidently granite, which seems to lie very close to the
surface, as about noon a large mass of this rock projected near our
path. A little beyond this point the wilderness was agreeably
interrupted by an opening with stubble-fields, about which were
scattered small granaries, producing, at such a distance from any
inhabited place and without guardians, an agreeable feeling of security.
Half an hour afterwards we reached the stockade of Wuélleri, and
proceeded directly to the house of the bíllama or mayor, as I wished to
obtain here another guide, for it was only with the greatest difficulty
that I succeeded in dragging on thus far my two archers, who had shown
signs of the greatest anxiety during the latter part of the march, and
had tried several times to turn their backs; but further they would not
go on any account, and I was therefore obliged to dismiss them, paying
them three hundred shells. Unfortunately the bíllama was not at home,
and his brother proved to be a morose and surly fellow. I wished to stay
here only during the hot hours of the day, and to proceed in the evening
after having watered the camels; but he represented to me that the town
of Máshena was too distant to be reached before night, if I did not go
on directly. As this was impossible, I resolved to stay here for the
night, and pitched my tent in an open place in front of a cool shed.
However, we found great difficulty in watering our animals, the Mánga
pretending that there was no water, though we ourselves had passed the
well where the cattle had just been watered. Certainly the aquatic
element was very scarce; and, after much debate, I was at length obliged
to pay one hundred and fifty shells—an enormous charge, if the general
price of the necessaries of life in this country be considered.
Thus our poor camels got at length something to drink, and, with a good
feed in the afternoon, were prepared for a long march the following day.
However, we still wanted a guide; and, notwithstanding our begging,
promising, and threatening, we were unable to persuade any one to
accompany us on to Búndi. The reason of this, however, was not only on
account of the absence of the governor of Máshena from his capital, but
likewise owing to the unsettled state of the country, and the fear
entertained by these people of being caught and sold into slavery.
Indeed, between all these towns, there was scarcely any mutual
intercourse kept up by the natives themselves.
[Sidenote: Thursday, March 20th.]
Having exerted myself to the utmost to obtain a guide, I found myself
obliged to start alone with my two young lads, the eldest of whom was
eighteen, and the other not more than thirteen or fourteen years of age.
Field and forest succeeded alternately to each other; and after a little
less than two miles, we passed on our left a small village lightly
fenced. Here we met also a small caravan, as a faint symptom of
peaceable intercourse, though its array (covered as it went by an
advanced guard of three archers marching at some distance, and
performing at the same time the office of scouts, and by a rearguard of
two more) showed clearly their sense of insecurity. The country now
began to improve considerably; and a beautiful tamarind-tree vested in
the richest foliage, and closely embracing a colossal leafless
Adansonia, formed the beginning of a finer vegetation, while two mounts,
one on our right hand and the other on our left, interrupted the
monotonous level through which we had been travelling. Further on,
granitic masses projected on all sides, and a solitary date-palm spread
a peculiar charm over the landscape.
Having watered my horse at a well in the hollow between the two mounts,
I reached, with my camels, the ditch and thorny fence then forming the
only fortification of the town of Máshena, which place was strengthened,
in the following year, with a clay wall. It lies on the gentle southern
slope of an eminence the top of which is crowned with a rocky crest, and
is a considerable place for this country, having a population of
certainly not less than 10,000 souls, but without the least sign of
industry. A small káfila of Tébu and Arab merchants were encamped here;
but although we arrived at the very hottest time of the day, I was too
anxious to proceed to think of staying here; and having only asked the
news from Kúkawa, and heard that all was well, I continued my march. It
shows the slowness of intercourse in this country, that these people
were ignorant of Mr. Richardson’s death, although he had died twenty
days before at a place only six days’ march on this side of Kúkawa.