[Illustration: Drawn by J. M. Bernatz, from a Sketch by Dr. Barth.
M. & N. Hanhart, lith. et impt.
CONFLUENCE OF BÉNUË AND FÁRO.
June 13th. 1851.]
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
IN
NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA:
BEING A
JOURNAL OF AN EXPEDITION
UNDERTAKEN
UNDER THE AUSPICES OF H.B.M.’S GOVERNMENT,
IN THE YEARS
1849-1855.
BY
HENRY BARTH, PH.D., D.C.L.
FELLOW OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL AND ASIATIC SOCIETIES,
_&c. &c._
IN FIVE VOLUMES.
VOL. II.
LONDON:
LONGMAN, BROWN, GREEN, LONGMANS, & ROBERTS.
1857.
_The right of translation is reserved._
LONDON:
Printed by SPOTTISWOODE & CO.
New-street Square.
CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.
* * * * *
CHAPTER XXII.
Page
Separation of the Travellers. — The Border Districts of the
Independent Pagan Confederation. — Tasáwa 1
Dissembling of the Chief. — His steadfast Character. — Mr. Richardson’s
Health. — Separation. — Different Roads to Kanó. — Animated
Intercourse. — Native Warfare. — The First Large Tamarind-tree. —
Villages and Wells. — Separation from Mr. Overweg. — Improved Scenery.
— Encampment at Gozenákko. — Lively Camp-scene. — Native Delicacies. —
Revenues of Tasáwa. — Astounding Message. — Visit to Tasáwa. — The
Market in Tasáwa. — Náchirá, Ánnur’s Estate. — Character of the People
and their Dwellings. — Intrigue defeated. — Counting Shells. — A Petty
Sultan. — Dyeing-Pits.
CHAP. XXIII.
Gazáwa. — Residence in Kátsena 32
An African Dandy. — My Protector Elaiji. — Camp-life. — Fortifications
and Market of Gazáwa. — March resumed. — Desolate Wilderness. — Site of
Dánkama. — Struggle between Islámism and Paganism. — Encampment near
Kátsena. — Estimate of Salt-caravan. — Negro Horsemen. — Equestrian
Musicians. — The Governor of Kátsena. — Detained by him. — The
Governor’s Wiles. — Disputes. — Who is the “Káfer?” — Clapperton’s
Companion. — The Tawáti Bel-Ghét conciliated. — Extortionate Demands. —
Subject about the Káfer resumed. — The Presents. — Promenade through
the Town. — The Governor’s Wishes. — Taking Leave of him.
CHAP. XXIV.
Háusa. — History and Description of Kátsena. — Entry into Kanó 69
The Name Háusa. — Origin of the Háusa Nation. — The seven States. —
Origin of the Town of Kátsena. — The Mohammedan Missionary Ben Maghíli.
— Kings of Kátsena. — The First Moslim. — The Oldest Quarter. —
Magnitude of the Town. — Its Decline. — Salubrious Site and Favourable
Situation of Kátsena. — Departure from Kátsena. — Wild State of the
Country. — Shibdáwa. — Rich Scenery. — Kusáda. — The Bentang Tree. —
Women with Heavy Loads. — Beehives. — Gúrzo. — Approach to Kanó. —
Straggling Villages. — Composition of our Troop. — First View of Dalá.
— Entering Kanó.
CHAP. XXV.
Residence in Kanó. — View of its Interior. — Its History and
Present State. — Commerce 97
My Situation in Kanó. — Debts. — Projects. — The Commissioner. —
Difficulties. — Sickness. — Interior of Kanó; Animated Picture. — The
Quarters of the Conquered and the Ruling Race. — The “Serkí” and the
Gháladíma. — The Audience. — Presents. — Plan of Kanó. — Street-groups.
— Industry. — View from Mount Dalá. — Acquaintances in Kanó. —
Meditated Departure. — Historical Sketch of Kanó. — Growth of the Town.
— The Quarters of the Town. — Ground-plan of my House. — Population. —
Commerce. — Various Kinds of Zénne. — Export of Cloth. — Grand
Character of Trade. — Produce. — The Guinea-fowl Shirt. — Leather-work.
— Kola-nut. — Slaves. — Natron, Salt, Ivory-trade. — European Goods in
Kanó. — The South American Slave-traders. — Small Quantity of Calico. —
Silk. — Woollen Cloth. — Beads. — Sugar. — Fire-arms. — Razors. — Arab
Dresses. — Copper. — The Shells and the Dollar. — Markets of Kanó. —
Revenues. — Administration. — The Conquering Tribe.
CHAP. XXVI.
Starting for Kúkawa. — The Frontier-district 148
Leaving Kanó quite by myself. — My Trooper. — Get off later. — Domestic
Slavery. — Gezáwa. — My Runaway Servant ʿAbd Allah. — The Sheríf and
his Attendants. — Mules in Negroland. — Kúka Mairuwá. — Insecurity. —
Scarcity of Water. — Natron-trade. — Endurance and Privations of the
Traveller. — Arrival at Gerki. — Take Leave of Háusa. — Gúmmel. —
Housebuilding. — Antidote. — Market at Gúmmel. — Magnitude of Ilóri. —
Two Spanish Dollars. — Depart from Gúmmel. — Benzári. — The Rebel Chief
Bokhári. — His Exploits. — The Governor of Máshena. — Letter-carrier’s
Mistake. — Curious Talisman. — Manga Warriors. — Wuëlleri. — Scarcity
of Water again. — Town of Máshena. — State of the Country. — Cheerful,
Out-of-the-way Place. — Álamáy. — Búndi and the Gháladíma. — The Kárda.
— Route from Kanó to Álamáy by way of Khadéja.
CHAP. XXVII.
Bórnu Proper 197
Intercourse. — Change of Life in Negroland. — Region of the Dúm-palm.
— The Kúri Ox. — The River Wáni. — Enter Bórnu Proper. — Zurríkuló. —
News of the Death of Mr. Richardson. — Sandy Downs. — Déffowa. —
Industry. — The Stray Camel. — Town of Wádi. — Good Market and no
Provisions. — Hospitable Treatment. — The Banks of the Wáni. —
Locusts and Hawks. — Ngurútuwa; Grave of Mr. Richardson. — The
Tawárek again. — Aláune. — The Jungles of the Komádugu. — Ruins of
Ghámbarú. — A Forest Encampment. — Nomadic Herdsmen. — Abundance of
Milk. — Ford of the Komádugu. — Native Ferry-boats. — Khér-Álla, the
Border-warfarer. — Changing Guides. — The Runaway Horse. — A Domestic
Quarrel.
CHAP. XXVIII.
Arrival in Kúkawa 240
Peculiar Character of the Alluvial Plains of Bórnu. — The Attentive
Woman. — Entrance into Kúkawa. — Servants of the Mission. — Debts of
the Mission. — Interview with the Vizier. — Sheikh ʿOmár. — Mr.
Richardson’s Property. — Amicable Arrangements.
CHAP. XXIX.
Authenticity and general Character of the History of Bórnu 253
Documents. — Beginning of written History. — Pedigree of the Bórnu
Kings. — Chronology. — Harmony of Facts. — The Séfuwa Dynasty. — Ébn
Khaldún. — Makrízí and Ébn Batúta. — Surprising Accuracy of the
Chronicle of Bórnu. — Statement of Leo Africanus. — Berber Origin of
the Séfuwa. — Form of Government. — The Berber Race. — The Queen
Mother. — Indigenous Tribes. — The Tedá or Tebu. — The Soy. — Epochs of
Bórnu History. — Greatest Power. — Decline of the Bórnu Empire. — The
Kánemíyín.
CHAP. XXX.
The Capital of Bornu 283
My Friends. — The Arab Áhmed bel Mejúb. — The Púllo Íbrahím from the
Senegal. — Dangerous Medical Practice. — Áhmed the Traveller. — My
Bórnu Friends. — The Vizier el Háj Beshír; his Career; his Domestic
Establishment; his Leniency. — Debts of the Mission paid. — The English
House. — Plague of Insects. — Preparations for a Journey. — Character
of Kúkawa. — The Two Towns. — The Great Market. — Business and
Concourse. — Defective Currency. — Prices of Provisions. — Fruits. —
Camels. — Horses. — Want of Native Industry. — Bórnu Women. — Promenade.
CHAP. XXXI.
The Tsád 319
Character of the Road to Ngórnu. — Ngórnu. — Searching the Tsád. —
Longer Excursion. — Character of the Shores of the Tsád. — The Búdduma
and their Boats. — Fresh Water. — Swampy Plains. — Boats of the Búdduma
again. — Maduwári. — Dress of the Sugúrti. — Account of the Lake. —
Shores of the Creek. — Sóyorum. — Káwa. — Return to Kúkawa. — Servants
dismissed. — Mohammed Titíwi the Auspicious Messenger. — Slave-caravan.
— Announcement of Rainy Season. — Ride to Gawánge. — Mr. Overweg’s
Arrival. — Meeting. — Property restored. — Mercantile Intrigues. — The
Sheikh’s Relatives. — Messengers from Ádamáwa. — Anticipated Importance
of the Eastern Branch of the Niger — Proposed Journey to Ádamáwa.
CHAP. XXXII.
Setting out on my Journey to Ádamáwa. — The Flat, Swampy
Grounds of Bórnu 351
Leaving Kúkawa. — The Road Southwards. — Inhospitality near the
Capital. — Buying with a Shirt. — The Winter Corn. — The Shúwa Arabs. —
Múngholo Gezáwa. — Fair Arabs. — Magá District. — The Gámerghú
District. — District of Ujé. — Fine Country. — Mábaní. — Pilgrim
Traders, Banks of the Yáloë. — First View of the Mountains. — Fúgo
Mozári. — Market of Ujé. — Aláwo. — Approach to Mándará.
CHAP. XXXIII.
The Border-country of the Marghí 374
Question about Snowy Mountains. — The Blacksmith. — Shámo District. — A
Storm. — Molghoy. — The Southern Molghoy. — Large Kúrna-trees. —
Structure of the Huts. — Deviations from Negro Type. — The Marghí,
their Attire and Language. — Edible Wild Fruits. — The Baobab. —
Beautiful Scenery. — Íssege. — Spirit of the Natives. — Degenerate
Fúlbe. — The Lake. — View of Mount Míndif. — Wándalá Mountains. — Route
to Sugúr. — The Marghí Tribe. — Scientific Dispute. — Unsafe
Wilderness. — Unwholesome Water. — The Return of the Slave Girl. — The
Bábir Tribe. — Laháula. — The Idol. — Alarm. — Abundance of Vegetable
Butter. — Serious March. — The Báza Tribe. — The Dividing Range. — Úba.
— The New Colony.
CHAP. XXXIV.
Ádamáwa. Mohammedan Settlements in the Heart of Central Africa 414
The Conquering Tribe. — The Granite Hills. — Valley and Mountain-chain.
— Isolated Mountain-groups. — Múbi. — The Surrounding Country. — Origin
of the Fúlbe. — Bágma and Peculiar Structures. — Camels a Novelty. —
Compliment paid to the Christian. — Mbutúdi. — Fúlbe Way of Saluting. —
The Déléb-palm (_Borassus flabelliformis?_) and its Fruit. — The
Granite Mount. — Simplicity of Manners. — Mount Hólma. — Legéro. —
Edible Productions. — Ground-nut Diet. — Badaníjo. — Fertile Vale. —
Temporary Scarcity. — Kurúlu. — Red and white Sorghum. — Saráwu
Beréberé. — Comfortable Quarters. — Accurate Description. — Important
Situation of Saráwu. — Tebu Traders. — Fair Negroes. — Market of
Saráwu. — Saráwu Fulfúlde. — The Mansion. — The Blind Governor. —
Principal Men in Yóla. — Mount Konkel. — Bélem. — An Arab Adventurer. —
Rich Vegetation. — The young Púllo. — Old Mʿallem Dalíli. — Arab
Colony. — A Country for Colonies. — Ruined Village (Melágo). —
Gastronomic Discussion. — Máyo Tíyel. — The Bátta Tribe. — Sulléri. —
Inhospitable Reception.
CHAP. XXXV.
The Meeting of the Waters. — The Bénuwé and Fáro 463
Approach to the River. — Mount Alantíka and the Bénuwé. — The Tépe or
“Junction.” — The great Arm of the Kwára. — The Traveller’s Pursuits. —
Highroad of Commerce. — The Frail Canoes. — Bathing in the Bénuwé. —
The Passage. — The River Fáro; its Current. — Floods and Fall of the
River. — Chabajáure. — Densely inhabited District. — Mount Bágelé. —
The Backwater. — Ribágo. — Cultivation of Rice. — The Bátta Language. —
Inundation. — Yebbórewó. — Mount Bágelé and Island. — Reach Yóla.
CHAP. XXXVI.
My Reception in Yóla. — Short Stay. — Dismissal 485
Inauspicious Entrance. — Curiosity of Natives. — Quarters. — An Arab
Traveller to Lake Nyassa. — The Governor Mohammed Lowel. — The
Audience. — The Mission repulsed. — The Governor’s Brother Mansúr. —
Ordered to withdraw. — Begin my Return-Journey. — Character of Yóla. —
Slavery. — Extent of Fúmbiná. — Elevation and Climate. — Vegetable and
Animal Kingdom. — Principal Chiefs of the Country. — Tribes; the Bátta,
the Chámba, and other Tribes.
CHAP. XXXVII.
My Journey Home from Ádamáwa 515
Start from Ribágo. — Hospitable Treatment in Sulléri. — Demsa-Póha. —
The Memorable Campaign Southward. — View of a Native Settlement. —
Beautiful Country. — Bélem again. — Mʿallem Dalíli and his Family. —
Múglebú. — Múbi. — My Quarters. — Household Furniture. — Úba. — Unsafe
Boundary-district. — Laháula. — Íssege. — Iron Ornaments of the Marghí.
— Funeral Dance. — Ordeal. — Feeling of Love. — A Party going to
Sacrifice. — Arrival at Yerímarí. — Villages of the Gámerghú. — Ujé
Kásukulá. — Difference of Climate. — Plants. — Huts. — Plains of Bórnu
Proper. — Seizing a Hut. — African Schoolboys. — A wandering Tribe. —
Town and Country. — Guineaworm. — Thunder-storm. — People returning
from Market. — Múnghono. — Return to Kúkawa.
* * * * *
APPENDIX.
I.
Quarters of the Town of Kátsena 555
II.
Chief Places in the Province of Kátsena 557
III.
Chief Places in the Province of Kanó, and Routes diverging from
Kanó in various Directions, principally towards the South 558
IV.
Collection of Itineraries passing through the various Districts
of Ádamáwa 587
V.
CHRONOLOGICAL TABLE,
Containing a List of the Séfuwa, or Kings of Bórnu descended
from Séf, with the few historical facts and events under
their respective reigns, that have come to our knowledge 633
VI.
Fragments of a Meteorological Register 673
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
IN
THE SECOND VOLUME.
* * * * *
MAPS.
Page
VII. Routes between Kátsena and Kúkawa i
VIII. Route from Kúkawa to Yóla 351
PLATES.
1. Tépe, the confluence of the Bénuwé and Fáro _Frontispiece_
2. Kanó from Mount Dalá _to face_ 111
3. Dendal in Kúkawa „ 243
4. Kálu-Kemé, the open Water of the Tsád „ 331
5. Shores of Lake Tsád „ 332
6. Mbutúdi „ 425
7. Demsa-póha „ 521
8. Múglebu „ 525
WOODCUTS.
Corn-stack 5
Negro Stirrup 46
Ground-plan of the Town of Kátsena 79
Ground-plan of the Town of Kanó 107
Dagger and Scabbard 110
Ground-plan of my House in Kanó 124
Guinea-fowl Shirt 129
Sandals 130
Leather Pocket ib.
Henhouse 207
Ground-plan of House in Kúkawa 299
Ground-plan of the Town of Kúkawa 304
The Seghëum of the Marghí 384
Double Peak of Mount Míndif 396
View of Mountain-chain of Úba 416
Mountain 418
Another Mountain 419
Mount Kilba-Gáya ib.
Mountain-chain, Fingting 421
Mount Hólma 431
Mount Kurúlu 437
Ground-plan of Huts 439
Couch-screen 441
Picturesque Cone 442
Mountain-range beyond Saráwu 450
Mount Kónkel 451
The Governor’s Audience-hall 490
Picturesque Cone 518
Ground-plan of Hut in Múbi 527
Household Furniture 528
Hand-bill 532
Shield 537
Different Shape of Huts 549
[Illustration: DR. BARTH’S TRAVELS IN NORTH AND CENTRAL AFRICA Sheet No.
7. MAP OF THE ROUTES between KÁTSENA AND KÚKAWA in the years 1851-1854.
Constructed and drawn by A. Petermann.
Engraved by E. Weller, _Duke Strt. Bloomsbury._
_London, Longman & Co._]
TRAVELS AND DISCOVERIES
IN
AFRICA.
* * * * *
CHAPTER XXII.
SEPARATION OF THE TRAVELLERS. — THE BORDER DISTRICTS OF THE INDEPENDENT
PAGAN CONFEDERATION. — TASÁWA.
[Sidenote: Friday, Jan. 10th, 1851.]
The important day had arrived when we were to separate not only from
each other, but also from the old chief Ánnur, upon whom our fortunes
had been dependent for so long a period. Having concealed his real
intentions till the very last moment, he at length, with seeming
reluctance, pretended that he was going first to Zínder. He confided
me, therefore, to the care of his brother Elaiji, a most amiable old
man, only a year younger than himself, but of a very different
character, who was to take the lead of the salt-caravan to Kanó; and
he promised me that I should arrive there in safety.
I had been so fortunate as to secure for myself, as far as that place,
the services of Gajére, who was settled in Tágelel, where he was
regarded as Ánnur’s chief slave, or overseer (“babá-n-báwa”). This man I
hired, together with a mare of his, for myself, and a very fine pack-ox
for that part of my luggage which my faithful camel, the Bu-Séfi, was
unable to carry. Ánnur, I must say, behaved excellently towards me in
this matter; for, having called me and Gajére into his presence, he
presented his trusty servant, before all the people, with a red bernús
on my account, enjoining him in the strictest terms to see me safe to
Kanó.
And so I separated from our worthy old friend with deep and sincere
regret. He was a most interesting specimen of an able politician and a
peaceful ruler in the midst of wild, lawless hordes; and I must do him
the justice of declaring that he behaved, on the whole, exceedingly well
towards us. I cannot avoid expressing the sorrow I afterwards felt on
account of the step which Mr. Richardson thought himself justified in
taking as soon as he had passed from the hands of Ánnur into those of
the authorities of Bórnu, viz., to urge the sheikh of that country to
claim restitution from the former, not only for the value of the things
taken from us by the bordering tribes of the desert, but even of part of
the sum which we had paid to Ánnur himself. Such conduct, it appeared to
me, was not only impolitic, but unfair. It was impolitic, because the
claim could be of no avail, and would only serve to alienate from us a
man whom we had succeeded in making our friend; and it was unfair, for,
although the sum which we had given to the chief was rather large in
proportion to our limited means, we were not compelled to pay it, but
were simply given to understand that, if we wanted the chief himself to
accompany us, we must contribute so much. I became fully aware of the
unfavourable effect which Mr. Richardson’s proceedings in this respect
produced, on the occasion of a visit which I paid the old chief in the
beginning of the year 1853, when passing through Zínder on my way to
Timbúktu. He then mentioned the circumstance with much feeling, and
asked me if, judging from his whole behaviour towards us, he had
deserved to be treated as a robber.
But to return to Tágelel, when I shook hands with the “sófo” he was
sitting, like a patriarch of old, in the midst of his slaves and free
men, male and female, and was dividing amongst them presents, such as
shawls and turkedies, but principally painted armrings of clay, imported
from Egypt, and of which the women of these districts are passionately
fond. Mr. Richardson being ready to start, I took a hearty farewell of
him, fixing our next place of meeting in Kúkawa, about the first of
April. He was tolerably well at the time, although he had shown evident
symptoms of being greatly affected by the change from the fine fresh air
of the mountainous district of Aïr to the sultry climate of the fertile
lands of Negroland; and he was quite incapable of bearing the heat of
the sun, for which reason he always carried an umbrella, instead of
accustoming himself to it by degrees. There was some sinister foreboding
in the circumstance that I did not feel sufficient confidence to intrust
to his care a parcel for Europe. I had sealed it expressly that he might
take it with him to Kúkawa, and send it off from that place with his own
despatches immediately after his arrival; but at the moment of parting I
preferred taking it myself to Kanó. All my best friends amongst the Kél-
owí were also going to Zínder, in order, as they said, to accompany
their master, although only a small part of the salt-caravan followed
that route. Overweg and I remained together for two or three days
longer.
[Illustration]
I felt happy in the extreme when I found myself once more on horseback,
however deficient in beauty my little mare might be; for few energetic
Europeans, I think, will relish travelling for any length of time on
camel’s back, as they are far too dependent on the caprice of the
animal. We set out at half-past seven o’clock, and soon passed on our
right a village, and then a second one, which I think was Dákari, where
a noble lady of handsome figure, and well mounted upon a bullock, joined
the caravan. She was seated in a most comfortable large chair, which was
fastened on the bullock’s back. We afterwards passed on our right the
town of Olalówa, situated on a low range of hills. In the lower plain
into which we next descended, I observed the first regular ant-hill.
Small groups of corn-stacks, or rumbús, further on dotted a depression
or hollow, which was encompassed on both sides with gently-sloping
hills. Here I had to leave the path of the caravan with my new companion
Gajére, who was riding the bullock, in order to water our two beasts, a
duty which now demanded our chief attention every day.
At length we reached the watering-place of Gílmirám, consisting of a
group of not less than twenty wells, but all nearly dry. The district of
Damerghú must sometimes suffer greatly from drought. The horses and
cattle of the village were just coming to be watered; what time and
pains it must take to satisfy a whole herd, when we were scarcely able
to water our two animals! Passing along through thick underwood, where
the “kálgo,” with its large dry leaves of olive hue, and its long red
pods similar to those of the kharúb-tree, but much larger, predominated
almost exclusively, and leaving the village Maihánkuba on our right, we
at last overtook the caravan; for the Ásbenáwa pack-oxen are capable of
carrying heavy loads at a very expeditious pace, and in this respect
leave far behind them the pack-oxen of the fertile regions of Negroland.
We now kept along through the woody region, where the tree “góshi,” with
an edible fruit, was most frequent. We encamped in a thickly-wooded
hollow, when my sociable companion Gajére, as well by the care he took
for our evening fire (which he arranged in the most scientific way) as
by the information he gave me with regard to the routes leading from
Zínder to Kanó, contributed greatly to the comfort and cheerfulness of
our bivouac. I first learned from him that there are four different
routes from Zínder to Kanó, one route, the westernmost, passing by
Dáura; the second, passing by Kazáure; the third, by Garú-n-Gedúnia; the
fourth, by Gúmmel (or, as he pronounced it, Gúmiel[1]), gari-n-serki-n-
Da-n-Tanóma, this being the easternmost and longest route. Gajére
himself was only acquainted with the third route, the stations of which
are as follows.
Starting from Zínder you sleep the first night in Gógo, the second in
Mokókia, the third in Zólunzólun, the fourth in Magáriá, the fifth in
Túnfushí, the sixth in Garú-n-Gedúnia, from whence it is three days’
journey to Kanó.
[Sidenote: Saturday, January 11th.]
My people, Gajére, and myself started considerably in advance of the
caravan, in order to water the animals at our leisure, and fill the
waterskins. It was a beautiful morning, and our march a most pleasant
one; a tall sort of grass called “gámba” covered the whole ground. Thus
we went on cheerfully, passing by a well at present dry, situated in a
small hollow and surrounded with fine trees which were enlivened by
numbers of Guinea fowl and wild pigeons. Beyond this spot the country
became more open; and about five miles from the well we reached the pond
or “tébki-n-rúwa Kúdura,” close on the right of our path. It was already
partly dried up, and the water had quite a milky colour from the nature
of the ground, which consists of a whitish clay; but during the rainy
season, and for some time afterwards, when all the trees which surround
it in its dry state stand in the midst of the water, it is of
considerable size. There are a great many kálgo-trees here. We also met
a small troop of men very characteristic of the country we had entered,
being wanton in behaviour and light in dress, having nothing on but
short shirts (the colour of which had once been dark blue) and
diminutive straw hats, while all their luggage consisted of a small
leathern bag with pounded “géro” or millet, some gourd bottles to
contain the fura, besides two or three drinking-vessels. One of them, an
exceedingly tall fellow, rode a horse scarcely able to carry him, though
the cavalier was almost as lean as his Rosinante. Soon afterwards the
pond became enlivened by the arrival of a caravan of pack-oxen,
everything indicating that we had reached a region where intercourse was
easy and continuous.
We remained here nearly two hours, till the “aïri” came up, when we
joined it, and soon discovered the reason of their being so long; for in
the thick underwood the long strings of camels could not proceed fast,
and the stoppages were frequent. We then met another small caravan. At a
quarter past four in the afternoon we encamped in a locality called
Amsúsu, in the midst of the forest. We were busy pitching the tent, when
a body of about sixteen horsemen came up, all dressed in the Tawárek
fashion, but plainly indicating their intermixture with the Háusa people
by their less muscular frame, and by the variety of their dress; and in
fact they all belonged to that curious mulatto tribe called Búzu (_pl._
Búzawe). They were going on a “yáki,” but whether against the
Awelímmiden or the Féllani I could not learn at the time; the latter,
however, proved to be the case.
The earth hereabouts was filled with a peculiar kind of small worms,
which greatly annoyed any person lying on the bare ground, so that I was
very fortunate in having my “gadó” with me. A bedstead of some kind is a
most necessary piece of furniture for an African traveller, as I have
already remarked on a previous occasion; but it should be of a lighter
description than my heavy boards, which, notwithstanding their
thickness, were soon split, and at length smashed to pieces, in the
thick forests through which we often had to pass. Our bivouac in the
evening round our fire was exceedingly agreeable, the staid and grave
demeanour of my burly and energetic companion imposing even upon the
frivolous Mohammed, who at this time behaved much better than usual.
Gajére informed me that the direct western road from here to Tasáwa
passed by the village Gárari, the pond Úrafa, the well Jíga, and by
Birni-n-Tázin, while we were to follow an eastern road. Not far from our
encampment, eastward, was a swamp named Tágelel.
[Sidenote: Sunday, January 12th.]
Several camels were missing in the morning, as was indeed very natural
in a country like this, thickly covered with trees and underwood. Soon,
however, a tremendously shrill cry, passing from troop to troop, and
producing altogether a most startling effect, announced that the animals
had been found; and a most interesting and lively scene ensued, each
party, scattered as the caravan was through the forest, beginning to
load their camels on any narrow open space at hand. The sky was thickly
overcast; and the sun did not break forth till after we had gone some
three or four miles. We passed a beautiful tsámia, or tamarind-tree,
which was, I think, the first full-grown tree of this species we had
seen, those in Tágelel being mere dwarfs. Having descended a little, we
passed at eleven o’clock a small hamlet or farming-village called Kauye-
n-Sálakh; and I afterwards observed the first tulip-tree, splendidly
covered with the beautiful flower just open in all the natural finery of
its colours, while not a single leaf adorned the tree. I think this was
the first tree of the kind we had passed on our road, although Overweg
(whose attention I drew to it) asserted that he had seen specimens of it
the day before; nevertheless I doubt their having escaped my
observation, as I took the greatest interest in noting down accurately
where every new species of plant first appeared. At four o’clock in the
afternoon we saw the first cotton-fields, which alternated with the
corn-fields most agreeably. The former are certainly the greatest and
most permanent ornament of any landscape in these regions, the plant
being in leaf at almost every season of the year, and partly even in a
state of fructification; but a field of full-grown cotton-plants, in
good order, is very rarely met with in these countries, as they are left
generally in a wild state, over-grown with all sorts of rank grass. A
little beyond these fields we pitched our tent.
[Sidenote: Monday, January 13th.]
We started at rather a late hour, our road being crossed by a number of
small paths which led to watering-places; and we were soon surrounded by
a great many women from a neighbouring village called Baíbay, offering
for sale, to the people of the caravan, “godjía,” or ground-nuts, and
“dákkwa,” a sort of dry paste made of pounded Guinea corn
(_Pennisetum_), with dates and an enormous quantity of pepper. This is
the meaning of dákkwa in these districts; it is, however, elsewhere used
as a general term signifying only paste, and is often employed to denote
a very palatable sort of sweatmeat made of pounded rice, butter, and
honey. We then passed on our left the fields of the village, those near
the road being well and carefully fenced, and lying around the well,
where half the inhabitants of the place were assembled to draw water,
which required no small pains, the depth of the well exceeding twenty
fathoms. Attempting to water the horse, I found that the water was
excessively warm; unfortunately, I had not got my thermometer with me,
but resolved to be more careful in future. On passing the village, we
were struck by the neatness with which it was fenced on this side; and I
afterwards learned by experience what a beautiful and comfortable
dwelling may be arranged with no other material than reeds and corn-
stalks. The population of these villages consists of a mixture of
Mohammedans and pagans; but I think the majority of the inhabitants are
Mohammedans.
After a short interval of woody country, we passed a village of the name
of Chirák, with another busy scene round the well. In many districts in
Central Africa the labour of drawing water, for a portion of the year,
is so heavy that it occupies the greater part of the inhabitants half
the day; but fortunately, at this season, with the exception of weaving
a little cotton, they have no other employment, while during the season
when agricultural labours are going on water is to be found everywhere,
and the wells are not used at all. Búzawe are scattered everywhere
hereabouts, and infuse into the population a good deal of Berber blood.
Very pure Háusa is spoken.
It was near Chirák that Overweg, who had determined to go directly to
Tasáwa, in order to commence his intended excursion to Góber and Marádi
separated from me. This was indeed quite a gallant commencement of his
undertaking, as he had none of Ánnur’s people with him, and besides
Ibrahím and the useful snake-like Amánkay (who had recovered from his
guineaworm), his only companion was a Tébu who had long been settled in
Ásben, and whom he had engaged for the length of his intended trip. At
that time he had still the firm intention to go to Kúkawa by way of
Kanó, and begged me to leave his things there. He was in excellent
health, and full of an enthusiastic desire to devote himself to the
study of the new world which opened before us; and we parted with a
hearty wish for each other’s success in our different quarters before we
were to meet again in the capital of Bórnu—for we did not then know that
we should have an interview in Tasáwa.
I now went on alone, but felt not at all depressed by solitude, as I had
been accustomed from my youth to wander about by myself among strange
people. I felt disposed, indeed, to enter into a closer connection with
my black friend Gajére, who was very communicative, but oftentimes
rather rude, and unable to refrain from occasionally mocking the
stranger who wanted to know everything, and would not acknowledge
Mohammed in all his prophetic glory. He called my attention to several
new kinds of trees while we were passing the two villages Bagángaré and
Tangónda. These were the “baushi,” the “karámmia,” and the “gónda,” the
last being identical with the _Carica Papaya_, and rather rare in the
northern parts of Negroland, but very common in the country between
Kátsena and Núpe, and scattered in single specimens over all the country
from Kanó and Gújeba southwards to the river Bénuwé; but at that time I
was ignorant that it bore a splendid fruit, with which I first became
acquainted in Kátsena. The whole country, indeed, had a most interesting
and cheerful appearance, villages and cornfields succeeding each other
with only short intervals of thick underwood, which contributed to give
richer variety to the whole landscape, while the ground was undulating,
and might sometimes even be called hilly. We met a numerous herd of fine
cattle belonging to Gozenákko, returning to their pasture-grounds after
having been watered,—the bulls all with the beautiful hump, and of fine
strong limbs, but of moderate size, and with small horns. Scarcely had
this moving picture passed before our eyes, when another interesting and
characteristic procession succeeded—a long troop of men, all carrying on
their heads large baskets filled with the fruit of the góreba
(_Cucifera_, or _Hyphaene Thebaïca_), commonly called the gingerbread-
tree, which, in many of the northern districts of Negroland, furnishes a
most important article of food, and certainly seasons many dishes very
pleasantly, as I shall have occasion to mention in the course of my
narrative. Further on, the fields were enlivened with cattle grazing in
the stubble, while a new species of tree, the “kírria,” attracted my
attention.
Thus we reached Gozenákko; and while my servants Mohammed and the
Gatróni went with the camel to the camping-ground, I followed my sturdy
overseer to the village in order to water the horse; for though I might
have sent one of my men afterwards, I preferred taking this opportunity
of seeing the interior of the village. It is of considerable size, and
consists of a town and its suburbs, the former being surrounded with a
“kéffi,” or close stockade of thick stems of trees, while the suburbs
are ranged around without any inclosure or defence. All the houses
consist of conical huts made entirely of stalks and reeds; and great
numbers of little granaries were scattered among them. As it was about
half-past two in the afternoon, the people were sunk in slumber or
repose, and the well was left to our disposal; afterwards, however, we
were obliged to pay for the water. We then joined the caravan, which had
encamped at no great distance eastward of the village, in the stubble-
fields. These, enlivened as they were by a number of tall fan-palms
besides a variety of other trees, formed a very cheerful open ground for
our little trading-party, which, preparing for a longer stay of two or
three days, had chosen its ground in a more systematic way, each person
arranging his “tákrufa,” or the straw sacks containing the salt, so as
to form a barrier open only on one side, in the shape of an elongated
horseshoe, in the recess of which they might stow away their slender
stock of less bulky property, and sleep themselves, while in order to
protect the salt from behind, a light stockade of the stalks of Guinea
corn was constructed on that side; for having now exchanged the regions
of highway robbers and marauders for those of thieves, we had nothing
more to fear from open attacks, but a great deal from furtive attempts
by night.
Scarcely had our people made themselves comfortable, when their appetite
was excited by a various assortment of the delicacies of the country,
clamourously offered for sale by crowds of women from the village. The
whole evening a discordant chime was rung upon the words “nóno” (sour
milk), “may” (butter), “dodówa” (the vegetable-paste above mentioned),
“kúka” (the young leaves of the _Adansonia_, which are used for making
an infusion with which meat or the “túwo” is eaten), and “yáru da
dária.” The last of these names, indeed, is one which characterizes and
illustrates the cheerful disposition of the Háusa people; for the
literal meaning of it is, “the laughing boy,” or “the boy to laugh,”
while it signifies the sweet ground-nut, which if roasted is indeed one
of the greatest delicacies of the country. Reasoning from subsequent
experience, I thought it remarkable that no “túwo” (the common paste or
hasty pudding made of millet, called “fufu” on the western coast), which
forms the ordinary food of the natives, was offered for sale; but it
must be borne in mind that the people of Ásben care very little about a
warm supper, and like nothing better than the fura or ghussub-water, and
the corn in its crude state, only a little pounded. To this circumstance
the Arabs generally attribute the enormous and disgusting quantity of
lice with which the Kél-owí, even the very first men of the country, are
covered.
I was greatly disappointed in not being able to procure a fowl for my
supper. The breeding of fowls seems to be carried on to a very small
extent in this village, although they are in such immense numbers in
Damerghú, that a few years ago travellers could buy “a fowl for a
needle.”
[Sidenote: Tuesday, January 14th.]
Seeing that we should make some stay here, I had decided upon visiting
the town of Tasáwa, which was only a few miles distant to the west, but
deferred my visit till the morrow, in order to see the town in the more
interesting phase of the “káswa-n-Láraba,” or the Wednesday market.
However, our encampment, where I quietly spent the day, was itself
changed into a lively and bustling market; and even during the heat of
the day the discordant cries of the sellers did not cease.
My intelligent and jovial companion meanwhile gave me some valuable
information with regard to the revenue of the wealthy governor of
Tasáwa, who in certain respects is an independent prince, though he may
be called a powerful vassal of the king or chief of Marádi. Every head
of a family in his territory pays him three thousand kurdí, as “kurdí-n-
kay” (head-money or poll-tax); besides, there is an ample list of
penalties (“kurdí-n-laefi”), some of them very heavy: thus, for example,
the fine for having flogged another man, or most probably for having
given him a sound cudgelling, is as much as ten thousand kurdí; for
illicit paternity, one hundred thousand kurdí—an enormous sum
considering the economic condition of the population, and which, I
think, plainly proves how rarely such a thing happens in this region;
but of course where every man may lawfully take as many wives as he is
able to feed, there is little excuse for illicit intercourse. In case of
wilful murder, the whole property of the murderer is forfeited, and is
of right seized by the governor.
Each village has its own mayor, who decides petty matters, and is
responsible for the tax payable within his jurisdiction. The king, or
paramount chief, has the power of life and death; and there is no appeal
from his sentence to the ruler of Marádi. However, he cannot venture to
carry into effect any measure of consequence without asking the opinion
of his privy council, or at least that of the ghaladíma or prime
minister, some account of whose office I shall have an opportunity of
giving in the course of my narrative. The little territory of Tasáwa
might constitute a very happy state, if the inhabitants were left in
quiet; but they are continually harassed by predatory expeditions, and
even last evening, while we were encamped here, the Féllani drove away a
small herd of ten calves from the neighbouring village of Kálgo.
About noon the “salt” of the serkí-n-Kél-owí arrived with the people of
Olalówa, as well as that of Sálah Lúsu’s head man, who before had always
been in advance of us. In the evening I might have fancied myself a
prince; for I had a splendid supper, consisting of a fowl or two, while
a solitary maimólo cheered me with a performance on his simple three-
stringed instrument, which, however monotonous, was still expressive of
much feeling, and accompanied with a song in my praise.
[Sidenote: Wednesday, January 15th.]
At the very dawn of day, to my great astonishment, I was called out of
the tent by Mohammed, who told me that Fárraji, Lúsu’s man, our
companion from Ghát, had suddenly arrived from Zínder with three or four
Bórnu horsemen, and had express orders with regard to me. However, when
I went out to salute him, he said nothing of his errand, but simply told
me that he wanted first to speak to Elaíji, the chief of the caravan. I
therefore went to the latter myself to know what was the matter, and
learnt from the old man, that though he was not able to make out all the
terms of the letters of which Fárraji was the bearer, one of which was
written by the sheríf and the other by Lúsu, he yet understood that the
horsemen had come with no other purpose but to take me and Overweg to
Zínder, without consulting our wishes, and that the sheríf as well as
Lúsu had instructed him to send us off in company with these fellows,
but that they had also a letter for Ánnur, who ought to be consulted. As
for himself, the old man (well aware of the real state of affairs, and
that the averment of a letter having arrived from the consul at Tripoli,
to the effect that till further measures were taken with regard to our
recent losses we ought to stay in Bórnu, was a mere sham and
fabrication) declared that he would not force us to do anything against
our inclination, but that we ought to decide ourselves what was best to
be done.
Having, therefore, a double reason for going to Tasáwa, I set out as
early as possible, accompanied by my faithless, wanton Tunisian shushán,
and by my faithful, sedate Tageláli overseer. The path leading through
the suburbs of Gozenákko was well fenced, in order to prevent any
violation of property; but on the western side of the village there was
scarcely any cultivated ground, and we soon entered upon a wilderness
where the “dúmmia” and the “karása” were the principal plants, when,
after a march of a little more than three miles, the wild thicket again
gave way to cultivated fields, and the town of Tasáwa appeared in the
distance—or rather (as is generally the case in these countries, where
the dwellings are so low, and where almost all the trees round the towns
are cut down, for stratagetical as well as economical reasons) the fine
shady trees in the interior of the town were seen, which make it a very
cheerful place. After two miles more we reached the suburbs, and,
crossing them, kept along the outer ditch which runs round the stockade
of the town, in order to reach Al Wáli’s house, under whose special
protection I knew that Mr. Overweg had placed himself.
My friend’s quarters, into which we were shown, were very comfortable,
although rather narrow. They consisted of a courtyard, fenced with mats
made of reeds, and containing a large shed or “runfá,” likewise built of
mats and stalks, and a tolerably spacious hut, the walls built of clay
(“bángo”), but with a thatched roof (“shíbki”). The inner part of it was
guarded by a cross-wall from the prying of indiscreet eyes.
Overweg was not a little surprised on hearing the recent news; and we
sent for El Wákhshi, our Ghadámsi friend from Tin-téggana, in order to
consult him, as one who had long resided in these countries, and who, we
had reason to hope, would be uninfluenced by personal considerations. He
firmly pronounced his opinion that we ought not to go, and afterwards,
when Fárráji called Mánzo and Al Wáli to his aid, entered into a violent
dispute with these men, who advised us to go; but he went too far in
supposing that the letter had been written with a malicious intention.
For my part, I could well imagine that the step was authorized by the
sheikh of Bórnu, or at least by his vizier, who might have heard long
ago of our intention to go to Kanó, as it had been even Mr. Richardson’s
intention to go there, which indeed he ought to have done in conformity
with his written obligations to Mohammed e’ Sfáksi; they might therefore
have instructed the sheríf to do what he might think fit to prevent us
from carrying out our purpose. However, it seemed not improbable that
Lúsu had something to do with the affair. But it was absolutely
necessary for Mr. Overweg and myself, or for one of us at least, to go
to Kanó, as we had several debts to pay, and were obliged to sell the
little merchandise we had with us, in order to settle our affairs.
We were still considering the question, when we were informed that our
old protector the chief Ánnur had just arrived from Zínder; and I
immediately determined to go to see him in his own domain at Náchira,
situated at a little more than a mile N.E. from Tasáwa. In passing
through the town I crossed the market-place, which at that time, during
the hot hours of the day, was very well frequented, and presented a busy
scene of the highest interest to a traveller emerging from the desert,
and to which the faint sparks of life still to be observed in Ágades
cannot be compared. A considerable number of cattle were offered for
sale, as well as six camels, and the whole market was surrounded by
continuous rows of runfás or sheds; but provisions and ready-dressed
food formed the staple commodity, and scarcely anything of value was to
be seen. On leaving the town I entered an open country covered with
stubble-fields, and soon reached that group of Náchira where the chief
had fixed his quarters. In front of the yard was a most splendid
tamarind-tree, such as I had not yet seen. Leaving my horse in its
shade, I entered the yard, accompanied by Gajére, and looked about for
some time for the great man, when at length we discovered him under a
small shed or runfá of a conical form, so low that we had passed it
without noticing the people collected in its shade. There he lay
surrounded by his attendants, as was his custom in general when reposing
in the day-time, with no clothing but his trowsers, while his shirt,
rolled up, formed a pillow to rest his left arm upon. He did not seem to
be in the best humour—at least he did not say a single cheerful word to
me; and though it was the very hottest time of the day, he did not offer
me as much as a draught of water. I had expected to be treated to a bowl
of well-soaked “fura” seasoned with cheese. But what astonished me more
than his miserly conduct (which was rather familiar to me) was, that I
learned from his own mouth that he had not been to Zínder at all,
whither we had been assured he had accompanied Mr. Richardson, but that
he had spent all the time in Tágelel, from which place he had now come
direct. I was therefore the more certain that Lúsu had some part in the
intrigues. Ánnur, who had not yet received the letter addressed to him
from Zínder, knew nothing about it, and merely expressed his surprise
that such a letter had been written, without adding another word.
Seeing the old chief in a very cheerless humour, I soon left him, and
took a ramble with Gajére over the place. The estate is very extensive,
and consists of a great many clusters of huts scattered over the fields,
while isolated dúm-palms give to the whole a peculiar feature. The
people, all followers and mostly domestic slaves of Ánnur, seemed to
live in tolerable ease and comfort, as far as I was able to see, my
companion introducing me into several huts. Indeed every candid person,
however opposed to slavery he may be, must acknowledge that the Tawárek
in general, and particularly the Kél-owí, treat their slaves not only
humanely, but even with the utmost indulgence and affability, and
scarcely let them feel their bondage at all. Of course there are
exceptions, as the cruelty of yoking slaves to a plough, and driving
them on with a whip (which I had witnessed in Aúderas), is scarcely
surpassed in any of the Christian slave-states; but these exceptions are
extremely rare.
When I returned from my ramble, Mr. Overweg had also arrived, and the
old chief had received the letter; and though neither he nor any of his
people could read it, he was fully aware of its contents, and
disapproved of it entirely, saying that we should act freely, and
according to the best of our knowledge. I then returned with my
countryman into the town, and remained some time with him. In front of
his dwelling was encamped the natron-caravan of Al Wáli, which in a few
days was to leave for Núpe or (as the Háusa people say) Nýffi. We shall
have to notice very frequently this important commerce, which is carried
on between the shores of the Tsád and Nýffi.