INDIAN MANNERS.---In passing down the outlet of the Red Cedar Lake we,

soon after leaving our guides, met three canoes at short distances

apart, two of which had a little boy in each end, and the third an old

woman and child. We next met a Chippewa with his wife and child on the

banks. They had landed from a canoe, evidently in fear, but, learning

our character, embarked and followed us to Rice Lake. The woman had her

hair hanging loose about her head, and not clubbed up in the usual

fashion. I asked, and understood in reply, that this was a fashion

peculiar to a band of Chippewas who live north of Rice Lake. On coming

into Rice Lake we found the whole area of it, except a channel, covered

with wild rice not yet ripe. We here met a number of boys and girls in a

canoe, who, on seeing us, put ashore and fled in the utmost trepidation

into the tall grasses and hid themselves.

RICE LAKE, or MONOMINEKANING.--As we came in sight of the village, every

canoe was put in the best trim for display. The flags were hoisted; the

military canoes paid all possible devotion to Mars. There were five

canoes. I led the advance, the men striking up one of their liveliest

songs--which by the way was some rural ditty of love and adventure of

the age of Louis XIV.--and we landed in front of the village with a

flourish of air (purely a matter of ceremony) as if the Grand Mogul were

coming, and they would be swallowed up. I immediately sent to the

chiefs, to point out the best place for encamping, which they did.

COUNCIL AT RICE LAKE.--As soon as my tent was pitched, Neenaba,

Wabezhais, and their followers, to the number of twenty-two persons,

visited me, were received with a shake of the hand and a "bon-jour," and

presented with tobacco. Notice was immediately given that I would meet

them in council at the firing of signal guns by the military. They

attended accordingly. This council was preliminary, as I intended to

halt here for a couple of days, in order to put new bottoms to my

canoes. I wished, also, some geographical and other information from

them, prior to my final council. Neenaba agreed to draw a map of the

lower part of the river, &c., denoting the lines drawn by the treaty of

Prairie du Chien, and the sites of the saw-mills erected, without leave,

by squatters.

NATIVE SPEECHES.--Next day (8th) the final council was held, at the

usual signal. Wabezhais and Neenaba were the principal speakers. They

both disclaimed setting themselves up against the authority or wishes of

the United States. They knew the lines, and meant to keep them. But they

were on the frontiers. The Sioux came out against them. They came up the

river. They had last year killed a man and his two sons in a canoe, on

the opposite banks of Rice Lake, where they lay concealed. Left to

protect themselves, they had no choice. They must strike, or die. Their

fathers had left them councils, which, although young and foolish, they

must respect. They did not disregard the voice of the President. They

were glad to listen to it. They were pleased that he had honored them

with this visit, and this advice. This is the substance of

both speeches.

Neenaba complained that the lumbermen had built mills on their land, and

cut pine logs, without right. That the Indians got nothing but civil

treatment, when they went to the mills, and tobacco. This young chief

appears to have drawn a temporary notoriety upon himself by his position

in the late war party, which is, to some extent, fallacious. His modesty

is, however, a recommendation. I proposed to have invested him with a

second class medal and flag; but he brought them to me again, laying

them down, and saying that he perceived that it would produce

dissatisfaction and discord in his tribe; and that they were not

necessary to insure his good influence and friendship for the United

States. On consultation with the band, these marks of authority were

finally awarded to WABEZHAIS. Presents, including the last of my dry

goods, were then distributed. Among them, was a small piece of fine

scarlet cloth, but too little to make a present to each. The divider of

the goods, which were given in camp, who was Indian, when he came to

this tore it into small strips, so as to make a head-band or baldric for

each. The utmost exactness of division was observed in everything.

ORIFICES FOR TREADING OUT RICE.--I saw artificial orifices in the ground

near our encampment. On inquiry, I learned that these were used for

treading out the wild rice. A skin is put in these holes which are

filled with ears. A man then treads out the grain. This appears to be

the only part of rice making that is performed by the men. The women

gather, dry, and winnow it.

A LIVE BEAVER.--The Indians brought into camp one morning, while I was

at Rice Lake, a young beaver; an animal more completely amphibious, it

would be difficult to find. The head and front part of the body resemble

the muskrat. The fore legs are short, and have five toes. The hind legs

are long, stout, and web-footed. The spine projects back in a thick

mass, and terminates in a spatula-shaped tail, naked and scale-form. The

animal is young, and was taken about ten days ago. Previously to being

brought in, it had been taken out in a canoe into the lake, and

immersed. It appeared to be cold, and shivered slightly. Its hair was

saturated with water, and it made use of its fore paws in attempts to

express the water, sometimes like a cat, and at others, like a squirrel.

It sat up, like the latter, on its hind legs, and ate bread in the

manner of a squirrel. In this position it gave some idea of the

kangaroo. Its color was a black body, brownish on the cheeks and under

the body. The eye small and not very brilliant. Its cry is not unlike

that of a young child. The owner said, it would eat rice and fish. It

was perfectly tamed in this short time, and would run to its owner.

NOTICES OF NATURAL HISTORY.--I took out of the bed of the river, in the

descent below Red Cedar Lake, a greenish substance attached to stone,

having an animal organization resembling the sponge. In our descent, the

men caught, and killed with their poles, a proteus. The wild rice, which

fills this part of the river, is monoecious. The river abounds in

muscles, among which the species of unios is common, but not of large

size, so far as we observed. The forest growth improves about this

point, and denotes a better soil and climate. Pine species are still

present, but have become more mixed with hard wood, and what the French

canoe-men denominate "Bois Franc."

VALUE OF THE FOLLEAVOINE FORK.--The name by which this tributary of the

Chippewa is called, on the Lake Superior side, namely, Red Cedar, is

quite inappropriate. Above Rice Lake it is characterized by the wild

rice plant, and the name of Folleavoine, which we found in use on the

Mississippi border, better expresses its character. The lower part of

the stream appears to be not only more plenteous in the class of

resources on which an Indian population rely, but far better adapted to

the purposes of agriculture, grazing, and hydraulics.

MEDAL OF THE THIRD PRESIDENT.--During the assemblages at Rice Lake, I

observed a lad called Ogeima Geezhick, or Chief Day, having a Jefferson

medal around his neck. I called him and his father, and, while inquiring

its history, put a new ribbon to it. It was probably given by the late

Col. Bolvin, Indian agent at Prairie du Chien, to the chief called

Peesh-a-Peevely, of Ottawa Lake. The latter died at his village, an old

man, last winter. He gave it to a young man who was killed by the Sioux.

His brother having a boy named after him, namely, Ogeima Geezhick, gave

it to him.

WAR-DANCE.--This ceremony, together with what is called _striking the

post_, was performed during our stay. The warriors, arrayed for war,

danced in a circle to the music of their drum and rattles. After making

a fixed number of revolutions, they stopped simultaneously and uttered

the sharp war yell. A man then stepped out, and, raising his club and

striking a pole in the centre, related a personal exploit in war. The

dance was then resumed, and terminated in like manner by yells, when

another warrior related his exploits. This was repeated as long as there

were exploits to tell. One of the warriors had seven feathers in his

head, denoting that he had marched seven times against the enemy.

Another had two. One of the young men asked for Lieut. Clary's sword,

and danced with it in the circle.

An old woman, sitting in a ring of women on the left, when the dancing

and drumming had reached its height, could not restrain her feelings.

She rose up, and, seizing a war-club which one of the young men

gallantly offered, joined the dance. As soon as they paused, and gave

the war-whoop, she stepped forward and shook her club towards the Sioux

lines, and related that a war party of Chippewas had gone to the

Warwater River, and killed a Sioux, and when they returned they threw

the scalp at her feet. A very old, deaf, and gray-headed man, tottering

with age, also stepped out to tell the exploits of his youth, on the

war path.

Among the dancers, I noticed a man with a British medal. It was the

medal of the late Chief Peesh-a-Peevely, and had probably been given him

while the British held the supremacy in the country. I explained to him

that it, was a symbol of nationality, which it was now improper to

display as such. That I would recognize the personal authority of it, by

exchanging for it an American silver medal of equal size.

ORNITHOLOGY.--While at Rice Lake, I heard, for the first time, the

meadow-lark, and should judge it a favorite place for birds obtaining

their food. The thirteen striped squirrel is also common. A quantity of

the fresh-water shells of the lake were, at my request, brought in by

the Indian girls. There was very little variety. Most of them were unios

of a small size.

I found the entire population to be one hundred and forty-two souls, of

whom eleven were absent.

One of the last acts of Neenaba was to present a pipe and speech, to be

forwarded to the President, to request him to use his power to prevent

the Sioux from crossing the lines. Having now finished repairing my

canoes, I embarked on the ninth, at three o'clock in the afternoon, and

went down the river four hours and a half, probably about eighteen

miles, and encamped. Encountered four Indians, from whom we obtained

some pieces of venison. During the night wolves set up their howls near

our camp, a sure sign that we were in a deer country.

A PRAIRIE COUNTRY.--The next morning (10th Aug.) we embarked at five,

and remained in our canoes till ten A.M., when we landed for breakfast.

We had now entered a prairie country, of a pleasing and picturesque

aspect. We observed a red deer during the morning; we passed many

hunting encampments of the Indians, and the horns and bones of

slaughtered deers, and other evidences of our being in a valuable game

country. These signs continued and increased after breakfast. The river

had now increased in volume, so as to allow a free navigation, and the

men could venture to put out their strength in following down a current,

always strong, and often rapid. We were passing a country of sylvan

attractions, of great fertility, and abounding in deer, elk, and other

animals. We also saw a mink, and a flock of brant. Mr. Clary shot a

turkey-buzzard, the first intimation that we had reached within the

range of that bird. As evening approached we saw a raccoon on a fallen

bank. We came at nightfall to the Kakabika Falls, carried our baggage

across the portage, and encamped at the western end, ready to embark in

the morning, having descended the river, by estimation, seventy miles.

These falls are over sandstone, a rock which has shown itself at all the

rapids below Rice Lake.

SAW MILLS.--The next morning (11th) we embarked at six o'clock, and,

after descending strong and rapid waters for a distance of about fifteen

miles, reached the site of a saw mill. A Mr. Wallace, who with ten men

was in charge of it, and was engaged in reconstructing a dam that had

been carried off by the last spring freshet, represented Messrs. Rolette

and Lockwood of Prairie du Chien. Another mill, he said, was constructed

on a creek just below, and out of sight.

I asked Mr. Wallace where the lines between the Sioux and Chippewas

crossed. He said above. He had no doubt, however, but that the land

belonged to the Chippewas. He said that no Sioux had been here for seven

years. At that time a mill was built here, and Sioux came and encamped

at it, but they were attacked by the Chippewas and several killed, since

which they have not appeared. He told us that this stream is called the

FOLLEAVOINE.

The country near the mills is not, in fact, occupied by either Chippewa

or Sioux, in consequence of which game is abundant on it. We saw a wolf,

on turning a dense point of woods, in the morning. The animal stood a

moment, and then turned and fled into the forest. After passing the

mills we saw groups of two, five and four deer, and of two wolves at

separate points. Mr. Johnston shot at a flight of brant, and brought

down one. The exclamations, indeed, of "_un loup! un chèvreuil!"_ were

continually in the men's mouths.

CHIPPEWA RIVER.--At twelve o'clock precisely we came to the confluence

of this fork with the main stream. The Chippewa is a noble mass of

water, flowing with a wide sweeping majesty to the Mississippi. It

excites the idea of magnitude. Wide plains, and the most sylvan and

picturesque hills bound the view. We abandoned our smallest canoe at

this point, and, pushing into the central channel of the grand current,

pursued for six hours our way to its mouth, where we encamped on a long

spit of naked sand, which marked its entrance into the Mississippi.

SNAKE.--The only thing that opposed our passage was a large serpent in

the centre of the channel, whose liberty being impinged, coiled himself

up, and raised his head in defiance. Its colors were greenish-yellow and

brownish. It appeared to be of the thickness at the maximum of a man's

wrist. The bowsman struck it with a pole, not without some trepidation

at his proximity to the reptile, but it made off, apparently unhurt, or

not disabled.

MONT LE GARDE.--The picturesque and grass-clad elevation called _Le

Garde_ by the canoe-men, attracted our notice. It is a high hill, the

top of which commands a view of the whole length of Lake Pepin, where

Chippewa war parties look out for their enemies. It was from this

elevation that Kewaynokwut's party spied poor Finley and his men in

1824, and there could have been no reason whatever for mistaking their

character, for he had a linen tent and other unmistakeable insignia of

a trader.

The Chippewa enters the Mississippi by several channels, which at this

stage of the water, are formed by long sand bars, which are but a few

inches above the water. The tracks of deer and elk were abundant on

these bars. We had found something of this kind on a bar of the

Folleavoine below the mills, where we landed to dry the doctor's

herbarium and press, which had been knocked overboard in a rapid. The

tracks of elk at that spot were as numerous as those of cattle in a barn

yard. There are high hills on the west banks of the Mississippi opposite

the entrance, and an enchanting view is had of the foot of Lake Pepin

and its beautiful shores.

Deer appear to come on to these sand bars at night, to avoid the

mosquitoes. Wolves follow them. We estimate our distance at forty miles,

inclusive of the stop at the mill. We had the brant roasted on a stick

for supper.

DESCENT OF THE MISSISSIPPI.--We embarked on our descent at four o'clock

A.M. We passed three canoes of Sioux men with their families. The

canoes were wooden. We stopped alongside, and gave them tobacco. The

women club their hair like the Chippewas, and wear short gowns of cloth.

Soon afterwards we overtook four Sioux of Wabashaw's band, in a canoe.

We stopped for breakfast at nine o'clock, under a high shore on the west

bank. Found fine unios of a large size, very abundant on a little sandy

bay. I found the _unio alatus, overtus, rugosus and gibbosus_, also some

_anadontas_. The Sioux came up, and gave us to understand that a murder

had been committed by the Menomonies in the mine country. Some of my

voyageurs laughed outright to hear the Sioux language spoken, the sound

of its frequent palatals falling very flat on men's ears accustomed only

to the Algonquin.

SIOUX VILLAGE.--About two o'clock, having taken a right-hand fork of the

river, we unexpectedly came to a Sioux village, consisting of a part of

Wabashaw's band, under Wah-koo-ta. Landed and found a Sioux who could

speak Chippewa, and serve as interpreter. I informed them of my route

and the object of my visit, and of my having communicated a message with

wampum and tobacco to Wabashaw. They told us that the Menomonies had

killed twenty-five Foxes at Prairie du Chien a few days ago, having

first made them drunk, and then cut their throats and scalped them. We

encamped, at seven o'clock in the evening, under high cliffs on the west

shore, having been fifteen hours in our canoes. Found mint among the

high grass, where our tent poles were put. On the next morning we set

off at half-past four o'clock, and went until ten to breakfast. At a low

point of land of the shore, we had a view of a red fox, who scampered

away gayly. He had been probably gleaning among the shell-fish

along shore.

At a subsequent point we met a boat laden with Indian goods, bound to

St. Peters, and manned by Canadians. The person in charge of it informed

us that it was Menomonies and not Foxes who had, to the number of

twenty-six, been recently murdered.

GENERAL IMPRESSION OF THE MISSISSIPPI.--The engrossing idea, in passing

down the Mississippi, is the power of its waters during the spring

flood. Trees carried from above are piled on the heads of islands, and

also lie, like vast stranded rocks, on its sand bars and lower shores.

Generally the butt ends and roots are elevated in the air, and remain

like gibbeted men by the roadside, to tell the traveler of the POWER

once exerted there.

We traveled till near ten o'clock (13th) in the morning, when we reached

and encamped at Prairie du Chien.

CHAPTER XLI.

Death of Mr. Monroe--Affair of the massacre of the Menomonies by the

Foxes--Descent to Galena--Trip in the lead mine country to Fort

Winnebago--Gratiot's Grove--Sac and Fox disturbances--Black Hawk--Irish

Diggings--Willow Springs--Vanmater's lead--An escape from falling into a

pit--Mineral Point--Ansley's copper mine--Gen. Dodge's--Mr.

Brigham's--Sugar Creek--Four Lakes--Seven Mile Prairie--A night in the

woods--Reach Fort Winnebago--Return to the Sault--Political changes in

the cabinet--Gov. Cass called to Washington--Religious changes--G.B.

Porter appointed Governor--Natural history--Character of the new

governor--Arrival of the Rev. Jeremiah Porter--Organization of a church.

1831, _Aug. 14th_. One of the first things we heard, on reaching Prairie

du Chien, was the death of ex-President Monroe, which happened on the

4th of July, at the City of New York. The demise of three ex-Presidents

of the revolutionary era (Jefferson, Adams, and Monroe), on this

political jubilee of the republic, is certainly extraordinary, and

appears, so far as human judgment goes, to lend a providential sanction

to the bold act of confederated resistance to taxation and oppression,

made in 1776.

The affray between the Foxes and Menomonies turns out thus. The Foxes

had killed a young Menomonie hunter, near the mouth of the Wisconsin,

and cut off his head. The Menomonies had retaliated by killing Foxes.

The Foxes then made a war party against the Menomonies, and went up the

Mississippi in search of them. They did not find them, till their

return, when they discovered a Menomonie encampment on the upper part of

the Prairie. They instantly attacked them, and killed seven men, five

women, and thirteen children. The act was perfectly dastardly, for the

Menomonies were some domestic lodges of persons living, as

non-combatants, under the guns of the fort and the civil institutions of

the town. The Menomonies complained to me. I told them to go to their

Agent, and have a proper statement of the massacre drawn up by him, and

transmitted to Washington.

I called on the commanding officer, Captain Loomis, and accepted his

invitation to dine. He introduced me to Mr. Street, the Indian Agent. At

four o'clock in the evening, I embarked for Galena, and, after

descending the Mississippi as long as daylight lasted, encamped on a

sand bar. The next morning (15th), we were again in motion before 5

o'clock. We passed Cassville and Dubuque at successive points, and,

entering the river of Galena, reached the town about half-past eight

o'clock, in the evening, and encamped on the banks of the river.

On the following day (16th) I dispatched my canoe back to the Wisconsin

in charge of Mr. Johnston, accompanied by Dr. D. Houghton, and Mr.

Melancthon Woolsey, with directions to meet me at the portage. I then

hired a light wagon to visit the mine country, taking letters from

Captain Legate, U.S.A., and Mr. C. Hemstead. Mr. Bennet, the landlord,

went with me to bring back the team. We left Galena about ten o'clock in

the morning (17th), and, passing over an open, rolling country, reached

Gratiot's Grove, at a distance of fifteen miles. The Messrs. Gratiot

received me kindly, and showed me the various ores, and their mode of

preparing and smelting them, which are, in all respects, similar to the

method pursued in Missouri, with which I was familiar.

Mr. Henry Gratiot was the sub-Indian agent for the Winnebagoes, and was

present at the late disturbances at the head of Rock Island. His band is

the Winnebagoes living on Rock River, which is the residence of their

prophet. He says the latter is a half Sauk, and a very shrewd, cunning

man. They are peaceable now, and disclaim all connection with Black

Hawk, for war purposes. Mr. G. assured me that he places no confidence

in these declarations, nor in the stability of the Sacs and Foxes. He

deems the latter treacherous, as usual, and related to me several acts

of their former villainy--all in accordance with their late attack and

murder of the Menomonies at Prairie du Chien. This murder was committed

by a part of Black Hawk's band, who had been driven from their villages

on the Mississippi below the rapids. They ascended the river to

Dubuque--from thence the party set out, and fell on the unsuspicious and

defenceless Menomonies.

Having examined whatever was deemed worthy of attention here, I drove on

about fifteen miles to Willow Springs. In this drive we had the Platte

Mounds, a prominent object, all the afternoon on our left. We stopped

at Irish Diggings, and I took specimens of the various spars, ores, and

rocks. Lead ore is found here in fissures in the rock. An extraordinary

mass of galena was recently discovered, in this geological position, by

two men named Doyle and Hanley. It is stated to have been twenty-two

feet wide by one hundred feet in length, and weighed many tons. It was

of the kind of formation called sheet mineral, which occupies what

appears to have once been an open fissure.

The face of the country is exceedingly beautiful, the soil fertile, and

bearing oaks and shagbark hickory. Grass and flowers cover the prairies

as far as the eye can reach. The hills are moderately elevated, and the

roads excellent, except for short distances where streams are crossed.

We passed the night at Willow Springs, where we were well accommodated

by Mr. Ray.

On the 18th it rained in the morning. We stopped at Rocky Branch

Diggings, and I obtained here some interesting specimens. We also

stopped at Bracken's Furnace, where I procured some organic remains. I

examined Vanmater's lead; it runs east and west nearly nine miles. There

was so much certainty in tracing the course of this lead, that it was

sought out with a compass. The top strata are thirty-six to forty

feet--then the mineral clay and galena occur.

While examining some large specimens which had been thrown out of an old

pit forty feet deep, whose edges were concealed by bushes, I had nearly

fallen in backwards, by which I should have been inevitably killed. The

fate that I escaped fell to the lot of Bennet's dog. The poor fellow

jumped over the cluster of bushes without seeing the pit beyond. By

looking down we could see that he was still living. Mr. Vanmater

promised to erect a windlass over the pit and get him out before Mr.

Bennet returned.

We reached Mineral Point about eleven o'clock. I immediately called on

Mr. Ansley, to whom I had a letter, and went with him to visit his

copper ore discovery. On the way he lost his mule, and, after some

exertions to catch the animal, being under the effects of a fever and

ague, he went back. A Mr. Black went with me to the diggings. Green and

blue carbonates of copper were found in rolled lumps in the clay soil,

much like that kind of lead ore which is called, from its abraded form,

gravel ore. Taking specimens of each kind of ore, I went back to the

town to dinner, and then drove on two or three miles to General

Dodge's. The General received me with great urbanity. I was introduced

to his son Augustus, a young gentleman of striking and agreeable

manners. Mrs. Dodge had prepared in a few moments a cup of coffee, which

formed a very acceptable appendage to my late dinner. We then continued

our way, passing through Dodgeville to Porter's Grove, where we stopped

for the night, and were made very comfortable at Morrison's.

On the 19th we drove to breakfast at Brigham's at the Blue Mounds. I

here found in my host my old friend with whom I had set out from

Pittsburgh for the western world some thirteen or fourteen years before,

and whom I last saw, I believe, fighting with the crows on the Illinois

bottoms for the produce of a fine field of corn. I went on to the mound

with him to view the extraordinary growth of the same grain at this

place. The stalks were so high that it really required a tall man to

reach up and pull off the ears.

Ten miles beyond Brigham's we came to Sugar Creek and a tree marked by

Mr. Lyon. From this point we found the trail measured and mile stakes

driven by Mr. Lyon's party, but the Indians have removed several. From

Sugar Creek it is ten miles to the head of the Four Lakes. We then

crossed the Seven Mile Prairie. To the left as we passed there rose a

high point of rocks, on the top of which the Indians had placed image

stones. Night overtook us soon after crossing this prairie. We took the

horse out of the shafts and tied him to the wagon. My friend Bennet,

though _au fait_ on these trips, failed to strike a fire. We ate

something, and made shift to pass the night.

Next morning we drove twelve miles to a house (Hasting's), where we got

breakfast. We drove through Duck Creek with some ado, the skies

threatening rain, and came in to Fort Winnebago by one o'clock, during a

pouring rain. The canoes sent from Galena had not yet arrived. I spent

the next day at the Winnebago agency, Mr. John H. Kinzie's, where I was

received with great kindness. The canoe with Dr. Houghton and his

companions did not arrive till the 23d, and I embarked the same day on

my return to St. Mary's. It will not be necessary to describe this

route. We were three days in descending the Fox River and its portages

to Green Bay. It required eight days to traverse the shores and bays to

Mackinack, and three more to reach St. Mary's, where I arrived on the

4th of September.

During my absence on this expedition, there were some things in my

correspondence that require notice. Gen. Cass had been transferred to

the War Office at Washington. He writes to me from Detroit (July 22d):

"Very much to my surprise I have found myself called to another sphere

of action. The change I am afraid will be not less unfavorable to my

health and comfort than it certainly is adverse to my pecuniary

interest. But I am forced by irresistible circumstances to accept the

appointment. I have no time to detail these now. When I next have the

pleasure of meeting you, I will fully lay them open to you. You will

then see and say that no other choice was before me."

Gen. Eaton, the former incumbent, goes out as minister to Spain. The

most important aspect is, perhaps, that we shall have a new governor,

under whose rule we shall be happy, if he does not rashly derange Indian

affairs in a too eager zeal to mend them. For a long and eventful era

Gen. Cass has presided as an umpire between the Indian tribes and the

citizens. His force and urbanity of character have equally inspired the

respect of both. He has equally secured the confidence of every class of

citizens in a wise civil administration of affairs. He has carried the

territory from a state of war and desolation, which it presented at the

close of 1815, when the whole population was less than three thousand

souls, to a state of sound prosperity, which, in a few years, will

develop resources that must class us one of the first of the

Lake States.

_July 26th_. The Rev. Absalom Peters, Sec. Home Miss. Society, holds out

the prospect of bringing our remote position, at the foot of Lake

Superior, within the pale of the operations of that society. He views

and describes a graduate of Dartmouth College, who may, probably, be

induced to venture himself on this frontier. He asks: "Please to say

whether you desire such a man as I have described? Will it be best for

him to go this fall, or wait until next spring? How much can you raise

for his support? How much will be necessary to sustain him and his

family with suitable economy? What will be his peculiar trials?"

_Aug. 23d_. It is announced that Mr. Geo. B. Porter, of Lancaster,

Penn., is to be the new governor.

_Oct. 4th_. The last mail brings me a letter from an early and esteemed

friend, a Prof. in the Med. Col. at New York, offering me

congratulations on the moral stand recently taken by me. Approvals,

indeed, of this act reach me from many quarters. The way seemed open,

with very little exertion on my part, to run a political course. But my

impressions were averse to it. There is so much of independent honest

opinion to be offered up by politicians--such continual calls to forsake

the right for the expedient--such large sacrifices to be made in various

ways to the god of public opinion, that a political career is rather

startling to a quiet, unambitious, home-loving individual like myself,

one, too, who is largely interested in other studies and pursuits, the

rewards of which are not, indeed, very prompt, very sure, nor very full;

but they are fraught with gratifications of a more enduring kind, and

furnish aliment to moral conceptions which exalt and purify the soul.

Dr. Torrey also alludes, in the same letter, to my recent journey in the

Indian country: "I am anxious to make some inquiries of you concerning

your expedition to the Falls of St. Anthony, &c. Though your principal

object was more important, perhaps, than natural science, I hope the

latter was not entirely neglected. I know that you have heretofore

devoted as much of your attention as possible to the observation of

natural objects, and the preservation of specimens, and your last

expedition was through a country well deserving of your highest

exertions. I know that part of it is the same as that explored while you

attended Gov. Cass, many years ago; but much of the ground, if I am

rightly informed, is new. You know that I have long devoted much of my

time to the study of N. American botany, and that I am collecting

materials for a general Flora of our country. Now, my dear sir, if you

or Mr. Houghton (the young gentleman whom, I am informed, accompanied

you) have made any collections in botany, I should esteem it a peculiar

favor to have the examination of the specimens.

"Our Lyceum prospers. We have removed to the N.Y. Dispensatory, a new

building lately erected in White Street, where we have excellent

accommodations. The Corporation of the city had use for the N.Y.

Institution, and nearly all the societies who occupied it have been

obliged to decamp. You doubtless have heard of the death of Dr.

Mitchell. Dr. Akerly will pronounce his eulogy soon, and probably Dr.

Hosick will give a more elaborate account of his life.

"Mr. Cooper now devotes himself to shells and birds. If you have

anything rare or new in these departments, we should be greatly obliged

to you for such specimens as you can spare.

"Dr. Dekay went to Russia with his father, Mr. Eckford, last summer."

_23d_. A friend and shrewd observer from Detroit, writes: "You ask how

we like our new Governor. Very well. He is a well-informed plain man,

unassuming in his manners and conciliatory, always ready for business,

and accustomed to do everything _en ordre_. His wife is a fine-looking

agreeable woman, with several pretty well-behaved children."

Another correspondent says: "Mr. Porter is very much such a man as A. E.

Wing, and will, no doubt, generally suit the citizens of the territory,"

_30th_. W. Ward, Esq., says: "I remove hence to Washington, with no

certain prospects, only hopes. I cannot go without thanking you for much

enjoyment in the hours passed with you, and for the manifestations of

interest and friendship."

_Nov. 12th_. Rev. W. S. Boutwell says: "I am happy to hear that my

friend and classmate, Porter, is at Mackinack, on his way to this

people. The Lord speed him on his way."

_22d_. Dr. Houghton writes from Fredonia, communicating the results of

his analyses of the Lake Superior copper-ores.

_Dec. 31st_. The person named in a prior letter from the Home Missionary

Society, prefers a more southerly location, in consequence of which a

new selection has been made by Dr. Peters, in the person of Rev.

Jeremiah Porter, a graduate of Princeton and Andover, and a lineal

descendant, I understand, by the mother's side, of the great Dr.

Edwards. We have been favorably impressed by the manner and deportment,

and not less so by the piety and learning of the man. I felt happy, the

moment of his landing, in offering him a furnished chamber, bed and

plate, at Elmwood, while residing on this frontier. He has taken steps

to organize a church. He preaches in an animated and persuasive style,

and has commenced a system of moral instruction in detail, which, in our

local history, constitutes an era. It has been written that "where vice

abounds, grace shall much more abound," and St. Mary's may now be well

included in the list of favorable examples. The lordly "wassail" of the

fur-trader, the long-continued dance of the gay French "habitant," the

roll of the billiard-ball, the shuffle of the card, and the frequent

potations of wine "when it is red in the cup," will now, at least, no

longer retain their places in the customs of this spot on the frontier

without the hope of having their immoral tendencies pointed out. Some of

the soldiers have also shown a disposition to attend the several

meetings for instruction. The claims of temperance have likewise led to

an organized effort, and if the pious and gentle Mr. Laird were

permitted once again to visit the place, after a lapse of seven years,

he might fervently exclaim, in the language of the Gospel, "What hath

God wrought?"

CHAPTER XLII.

Revival of St. Mary's--Rejection of Mr. Van Buren as Minister to

England--Botany and Natural History of the North-west--Project of a new

expedition to find the Sources of the Mississippi--Algie

Society--Consolidation of the Agencies of St. Mary's and

Michilimackinack--Good effects of the American Home Missionary

Society--Organization of a new inland exploring expedition committed to

me--Its objects and composition of the corps of observers.

1832, _Jan. 31st_. I was now to spend a winter to aid a preacher in

promoting the diffusion and understanding of the detailed facts, which

all go to establish a great truth--a truth which was first brought to

the world's notice eighteen hundred and thirty-two years before, namely,

that God, who was incarnate in the Messiah, under the name of Jesus

Christ, offered himself a public sacrifice for human sins, amidst the

most striking and imposing circumstances of a Roman execution--a fact

which, in an age of extraordinary moral stolidity and ecclesiastical

delusion, was regarded as the behest of a mere human tribunal.

For this work the circumstances of our position and exclusion from

society was very favorable. The world, with all its political and

commercial care, was, in fact, shut out with the closing of the river.

Three hundred miles of a waste, howling wilderness separated us

south-easterly from the settlements at Detroit. Ninety miles in a

south-westerly direction lay the island and little settlement and

mission of Mackinack.

In addition to the exertions of Mr. Porter, who was our pastor, the

winter had enclosed, at that point, a zealous missionary of the American

Board, destined for a more northerly position, in the person of Mr.

Boutwell, who with the person, Mr. Bingham, in charge of the Indian

mission at the same point, maintained by the Baptist Convention,

constituted a moral force that was not likely to be without its results.

They derived mutual aid from each other in various ways, and directed

their entire efforts upon a limited community, wholly excluded from open

contact with the busy world, and having, by their very isolation,

much leisure.

The result was an awakened attention to the truth, to which I have

adverted, not as a mere historical event, but one personally interesting

and important to every person, without regard at all to their

circumstances or position. Severity of climate, deep snows, the

temperature often below zero, and frequently but little above, blinding

snow storms, and every inconvenience of the place or places of meeting,

appeared only to have the effect to give greater efficacy to the

inquiry, as the workings of unshackled mind and will. Early in the

season, a comparatively large number of persons of every class deemed it

their duty to profess a personal interest in the atonement, the great

truth dwelt on, and made eventually a profession of faith by uniting

with, and recording their names as members of some branch of the church.

Among these were several natives. Mrs. Johnston, known to her people by

the name of the Sha-go-wash-co-da-wa-qua, being the most noted. Also

four of her daughters, and one of her sons, one or two Catholic

soldiers, several officers of Fort Brady, citizens, &c., &c.

This statement will tend to render many of the allusions in my journal

of this winter's transactions intelligible. Indeed some of them would

not be at all understood without it. Historically considered, there was

deep instruction "hid" in this event. It was now precisely 222 years

since the Puritans, with the principles of the Scriptures for their

guidance, in fleeing to lay the foundation of a new government in the

West, had landed at Plymouth. It had required this time, leaving events

to develop themselves, for the circle of civilization to reach the foot

of Lake Superior. Ten years after the first landing at this remote spot

in 1822, had been sufficient to warm these ancient principles into life.

John Eliot, and the band of eminent saints who began the labor with him

in 1632, had been centuries in their tombs, but the great principles

which they upheld and enforced were invested with the sacred vitality

which they possessed at that day. Two truths are revealed by this

reminiscence. 1. That the Scriptures will be promulgated by human means.

2. That time, in the Divine mind, is to be measured in a more enlarged

sense; but the propagation of truth goes on, as obstacle after obstacle

is withdrawn, surely, steadily, unalterably, and that its spread over

the entire globe is a mere question of time.

_Jan. 31st_. Mr. Wing, delegate in Congress, writes from Washington,

that the nomination of Mr. Van Buren as minister to England has been

rejected by the Senate, by a majority of one--and that one the casting

vote of the Vice-President. A letter from Albany, Feb. 1, says: "Albany

(and the State generally) is considerably excited this morning in

consequence of the rejection of Mr. Van Buren. Nothing could have more

promoted the interest of Mr. Van Buren than this step of the Senate. New

York city has resolved to receive him, on his return from England, with

all the 'pomp and magnificence in its power, and to show that her

'favorite son' shall be sustained.' I heard this read in public from a

letter received by a person in this city."

"A report reached this a few days ago, stating that the 'cholera' had

been brought to New Orleans in a Spanish vessel."

"Mr. Woolsey, the young gentleman of your tour last summer, died at New

York a short time since." In a letter which he wrote to me (Sept. 27th),

on the eve of his leaving Detroit, he says: "Permit me now, sir, in

closing this note, again to express my gratitude for the opportunity you

have afforded me of visiting a very interesting portion of our country,

and for the uniform kindness that I have experienced at your hands, and

for the friendly wishes, that prosperity may crown my exertions

in life."

Dr. Houghton says (Feb. 8) respecting this moral young man: "The tears

of regret might flow freely for the loss of such true unsophisticated

worth, even with those who knew him imperfectly, but to me, who felt as

a brother, the loss is doubly great. We have, however, when reflecting

upon his untimely death, the sweet consolation that he died as he lived,

a Christian."

_Feb. 4th_. Dr. Torrey expresses his interest in the botany and natural

history, generally, of the country visited by me last summer. "Your kind

offer to place in my hands the botanical rarities which, from time to

time, you may acquire, in your interesting journeys, I fully appreciate.

It will give me great pleasure to examine the collections made by Dr.

Houghton during your last expedition.

"My friend Mr. William Cooper, of the Lyceum, will be happy to lend you

all the assistance in his power in determining the shells you have

collected. He is decidedly our beat conchologist in New York, and I

would rather trust him than most men--for he is by no means afflicted

with the mania of desiring to multiply new species, which, is, at

present, the bane of natural history.

"You speak of having discovered some interesting minerals, especially

some good native copper. Above all the specimens which you obtained, I

should like to see the native magnesia which you found in serpentine. I

am desirous of analyzing the mineral, to ascertain whether its

composition agrees with that of Hoboken and Unst (the only recorded

localities in our mineralogical works)."

_13th_. Submitted, in a letter to the department at Washington, A

PROJECT of an expedition to the North-west, during the ensuing season,

in order to carry out the views expressed in the instructions of last

year, to preserve peace on the western frontiers, inclosing the

necessary estimates, &c.

_16th_. Mr. W. H. Sherman, of Vernon, N.Y., communicates intelligence

of the death of my mother, which took place about ten o'clock on the

morning of this day. She was seventy-five years of age, and a

Christian--and died as she had lived, in a full hope. I had read the

letters before breakfast, and while the family were assembling for

prayers. I had announced the fact with great composure, and afterward

proceeded to read in course the 42d Psalm, and went on well, until I

came to the verse--"Why art thou cast down, O my soul? and why art thou

disquieted within me? Hope thou in God: for I shall yet praise him, who

is the health of my countenance, and my God."

The emotions of this painful event, which I had striven to conceal,

swelled up in all their reality, my utterance was suddenly choked, and I

was obliged to close the book, and wait for calmness to go on.

_28th_. The initial steps were taken for forming an association of

persons interested in the cause of the reclamation of the Indians, to be

known under the name of the Algic Society. Connected with this, one of

its objects was to collect and disseminate practical information

respecting their language, history, traditions, customs, and character;

their numbers and condition; the geographical features of the country

they inhabit; and its natural history and productions.

It proposes some definite means of action for furthering their moral

instruction, and reclamation from the evils of intemperance and the

principles of war, and to subserve the general purposes of a society of

moral inquiry. The place was deemed favorable both for the collection of

original information, and for offering a helping hand to missionaries

and teachers who should visit the frontiers in carrying forward the

great moral question of the exaltation of the tribes from barbarism to

civilization and Christianity.

_28th_. Instructions are issued at Washington, consolidating the

agencies of St. Mary's and Michilimackinack--and placing the joint

agency under my charge. By this arrangement, Col. Boyd, the agent at the

latter point, is transferred to Green Bay, and I am left at liberty to

reside at St. Mary's or Michilimackinack, placing a sub-agent at the

point where I do not reside.

This measure is announced to me in a private letter of this day, from

the Secretary of War, who says: "I think the time has arrived when a

just economy requires such a measure." By it the entire expenses of one

full agency are dispensed with--the duties of which are devolved upon

me, in addition to those I before had. By being allowed the choice of

selection, two hundred dollars are added to my salary. Here is opened a

new field, and certainly a very ample one, for exertions.

_April 8th_. The object contemplated by invoking the aid of the Home

Missionary Society, in the establishment of a church at this remote

point on the frontiers--in connection with the means already possessed,

and the aid providentially present, have, it will have been seen, had

the effect to work quite a moral revolution. The evils of a lax society

have been rebuked in various ways. Intemperance and disorder have been

made to stand out as such, and already a spirit of rendering the use, or

rather _misuse_ of time, subservient to the general purposes of social

dissipation, has been shown to be unwise and immoral in every view. More

than all, the Sabbath-day has been vindicated as a part of time set

apart as holy. The claims and obligations of the decalogue have been

enforced; and the great truths of the Gospel thus prominently brought

forward. The result has been every way propitious.

The Rev. Wm. M. Ferry, of Mackinack, writes (Feb. 21): "The intelligence

we have received by your letters, Mr. Boutwell, &c., of the Lord's

doings among you, as a people, at the Sault, has rejoiced our hearts

much. Surely it is with you a time of the right hand of the Most High."

"All of us," writes Mr. Robert Stuart (March 29) "who love the Lord,

were much pleased at the indications of God's goodness and presence

among you."

The Rev. J. Porter, in subsequently referring to the results of these

additions to the church, observes, that they embraced five officers and

four ladies of the garrison; two gentlemen and seven ladies of the

settlement, and thirty soldiers and four women of Fort Brady, numbering

fifty-two in all. Of these, twenty-six were adults added by baptism.

At Detroit a similar result was experienced. Mr. Trowbridge writes

(April 8th), that about seventy persons united themselves a few days

previous to Mr. Wells' church, to which the influence has been

principally, but not wholly confined. Among these were many who had,

unaffectedly, listened to the Gospel, if not all their lives, certainly

no small part of it.

_May 3d_. Public instructions are issued for my organizing and taking

command of an expedition to the country upon the sources of the

Mississippi River, to effect a pacification between the Indian tribes,

in order to carry out, with increased means, the efforts made in 1831.

Those efforts were confined to tribes living in latitudes south of St.

Anthony's Falls. It was now proposed to extend them to the Indian

population living north of that point, reaching to the sources of that

river. This opened the prospect of settling a long contested point in

the geography of that stream, namely, its actual source--a question in

which I had long felt the deepest interest.

The outbreak of Indian hostility, under Black Hawk, which characterized

the summer of 1832, was apprehended, and it became the policy of the

Indian Bureau, in the actual state of its information, to prevent the

northern tribes from joining in the Sac and Fox league under that

influential leader. I forwarded to the Superintendent and Governor of

the territory, a report of a message and war-club sent to the Chippewas

to join in the war, for which I was indebted to the chief, Chingwauk, or

Little Pine.

"Reports from various quarters of the Indian country," says the

Secretary of War, in a private letter so early as March 28th, "lead to

the belief that the Indians are in an unsettled state, and prudence

requires that we should advise and restrain them. I think one more tour

would be very useful in this respect, and would complete our knowledge

of the geography of that region."

"There is a prospect," says the official instructions (May 3d), "of

extensive hostilities among themselves. It is no less the dictate of

humanity than of policy to repress this feeling, and to establish

permanent peace among the tribe.

"It is also important to inspect the condition of the trade, and the

conduct of the traders. To ascertain whether the regulations and the

laws are complied with, and to suggest such alterations as may be

required. And, finally, to inquire into the number, standing,

disposition, and prospect of the Indians, and to report all the

statistical facts you can procure, and which will be useful to the

government in its operations, or to the community in the investigation

of these subjects."

Congress, during the session, passed an act for vaccinating the Indians.

This constituted a separate duty, and enabled me to take along a

physician and surgeon. I offered the situation to Dr. Douglass Houghton,

of Fredonia, who, in the discharge of it, was prepared to take

cognizance of the subjects of botany, geology, and mineralogy. I offered

to the American Board of Missions, at Boston, to take a missionary

agent, to observe the condition and prospects of the Indian tribes in

the north-west, as presenting a field for their operations, and named

the Rev. W.T. Boutwell, then at Michilimackinack, for the post, which

the Board confirmed, with a formal vote of thanks. Lieut. James Allen,

5th U.S. Infantry, who was assigned to the command of the detachment of

troops, assumed the duties of topographer and draughtsman. Mr. George

Johnston, of St. Mary's, was appointed interpreter and baggage-master. I

retained myself the topics of Indian history, archaeology, and language.

The party numbered about thirty souls. All this appeared strictly

compatible with the practical objects to be attained--keeping the

expenses within the sum appropriated for the object.

Some few weeks were required completely to organize the expedition, to

prepare the necessary supplies, and to permit the several persons to

reach the place of rendezvous. Meantime I visited Michilimackinack to

receive the agency from Col. Boyd; after which it was left temporarily

in charge of a sub-agent and interpreter, with the supervision of the

commanding officer of Fort Mackinack.

_4th_. The Secretary of War writes a private letter: "We have allowed

all it was possible, and you must on no account exceed the sum, as the

pressure upon our funds is very great."

Maj. W. writes from Detroit (May 7th): "I am glad to hear that you are

about going on another expedition, and that Mr. Houghton is to accompany

you. I hope you will find time to send us some specimens collected on

your former tour before you start."

Dr. Houghton writes from Fredonia (May 12th): "I shall leave here

immediately after the twenty-fourth, and hope to see you as early as the

second or third of June. I have heard from Torrey, and have sent him a

suit of plants."

The Secretary of War again writes (May 22d): "It has been impossible

before now, to make you a remittance of funds, and they cannot yet all

be sent for your expedition. Our annual appropriation has not yet

passed, and when it will I am sure I cannot tell. So you must get along

as well as you can. I trust, however, the amount now sent will be

sufficient to enable you to start upon your expedition. The residue

promised to you, as well as the funds for your ordinary expenditures,

shall be sent as soon as the appropriation is made."

The sub-agent, in charge of the agency at Mackinack, writes (May 22d):

"Gen. Brook arrived yesterday from Green Bay, and has concluded to make

this post his head-quarters. I was up, yesterday, in the garrison, and

Capt. McCabe introduced me to him. I found him a very pleasant, plain,

unassuming man. Col. Boyd has handed me a list of articles which you

will find inclosed, &c."

"The committee," says the Rev. David Green, Boston, "wish me to express

to you the satisfaction they have in learning that your views respecting

the importance of making known the great truths of the Gospel to the

Indians, as the basis on which to build their improvement, in all

respects accords so perfectly with their own. It is our earnest desire

that our missionaries should act wisely in all their labors for the

benefit of the Indians, and that all the measures which may be adopted

by them, or by others who seek to promote the present or future welfare

of this unhappy and long-abused people, may be under the Divine

guidance, and crowned with great success."

These triple claims, which have now been mentioned, of business, of

science, and of religion, on my attention created not the least

distraction on my mind, but, on the contrary, appeared to have

propitious and harmonizing influences.

CHAPTER XLIII.

Expedition to, and discovery of, Itasca Lake, the source of the

Mississippi River--Brief notice of the journey to the point of former

geographical discovery in the basin of Upper Red Cedar, or Cass

Lake--Ascent and portage to Queen Anne's Lake--Lake Pemetascodiac--The

Ten, or Metoswa Rapids--Pemidgegomag, or Cross-water Lake--Lake

Irving--Lake Marquette--Lake La Salle--Lake Plantagenet--Ascent of the

Plantagenian Fork--Naiwa, or Copper-snake River--Agate Rapids and

portage--Assawa Lake--Portage over the Hauteur des Terres--Itasca

Lake--Its picturesque character--Geographical and astronomical

position--Historical data.

1832. _June 7th_. It was not until this day that the expedition was

ready to embark at the head of the portage at St. Mary's. I had

organized it strictly on temperance principles, observation having

convinced me, during frequent expeditions in the wilderness, that not

only is there no situation, unless administered from the medicine-chest,

where men are advantaged by its use, but in nearly every instance of

fatigue or exhaustion their powers are enfeebled by it, while, in a

moral and intellectual sense, they are rendered incapable, neglectful,

or disobedient. This exclusion constituted a special clause in every

verbal agreement with the men, who were Canadians, which I thought

necessary to make, in order that they might have no reason to complain

while inland of its exclusion. They were promised, instead of it,

abundance of good wholesome food at all times. The effects of this were

apparent even at the start. They all presented smiling faces, and took

hold of their paddles with a conscious feeling of satisfaction in the

wisdom of their agreement.

The military and their supplies occupied a large Mackinack boat; my

heavy stores filled another. I traveled in a _canoe-elège,_ as being

better adapted to speed and the celerity of landing. Each carried a

national flag. We slept the first night at Point Iroquois, which

commands a full view of the magnificent entrance into the lake. We were

fifteen days in traversing the lake, being my fifth trip through this

inland sea. We passed up the St. Louis River by its numerous portages

and falls to the Sandy Lake summit, and reached the banks of the

Mississippi on the third of July, and ascertained its width above the

junction of the Sandy Lake outlet to be 331 feet. We were six days in

ascending it to the central island in Cass Lake. This being the point at

which geographical discovery rests, I decided to encamp the men, deposit

my heavy baggage, and fitted out a light party in hunting canoes to

trace the stream to its source. The Indians supplied me with five canoes

of two fathoms each, and requiring but two men to manage each, which

would allow one canoe to each of the gentlemen of my party. I took three

Indians and seven white men as the joint crew, making, with the sitters,

fifteen persons. We were provisioned for a few days, carried a flag,

mess-basket, tent, and other necessary apparatus. We left the island

early the next morning, and reached the influx of the Mississippi into

the Lake at an early hour. To avoid a very circuitous bay, which I

called Allen's Bay, we made a short portage through open pine woods.

Fifty yards' walk brought us and our canoe and baggage to the banks of

Queen Anne's Lake, a small sylvan lake through which the whole channel

of the Mississippi passed. A few miles above its termination we entered

another lake of limited size, which the Indians called Pemetascodiac.

The river winds about in this portion of it--through savannas, bordered

by sandhills, and pines in the distance--for about fifteen miles. At

this distance, rapids commence, and the bed of the river exhibited

greenstone and gneissoid boulders. We counted ten of these rapids, which

our guide called the Metoswa, or Ten Rapids. They extend about twenty

miles, during which there is a gradual ascent of about forty feet. The

men got out at each of these rapids, and lifted or drew the canoes up by

their gunwales. We ascended slowly and with toil. At the computed

distance of forty-five miles, we entered a very handsome sheet of water,

lying transverse to our course, which the Indians called Pamidjegumag,

which means crosswater, and which the French call _Lac Traverse_. It is

about twelve miles long from east to west, and five or six wide. It is

surrounded with hardwood forest, presenting a picturesque appearance.

We stopped a few moments to observe a rude idol on its shores; it

consisted of a granitic boulder, of an extraordinary shape, with some

rings and spots of paint, designed to give it a resemblance to a human

statue. We observed the passenger-pigeon and some small fresh-water

shells of the species of unios and anadontas.

A short channel, with a strong current, connects this lake with another

of less than a third of its dimensions, to which I gave the name of

Washington Irving. Not more than three or four miles above the latter,

the Mississippi exhibits the junction of its ultimate forks. The right

hand, or Itasca branch, was represented as by far the longest, the most

circuitous, and most difficult of ascent. It brings down much the

largest volume of water. I availed myself of the geographical knowledge

of my Indian guide by taking the left hand, or what I had occasion soon

to call the Plantagenian branch. It expanded, in the course of a few

miles, into a lake, which I called Marquette, and, a little further,

into another, which I named La Salle. About four miles above the latter,

we entered into a more considerable sheet of water, which I named

Plantagenet, being the site of an old Indian encampment called

Kubbakunna, or the Rest in the Path.

We encamped a short distance above the upper end of this lake at the

close of the day, on a point of low land covered with a small growth of

gray pine, fringed with alder, tamarisk, spruce, and willow. A bed of

moss covered the soil, into which the foot sank at every step. Long moss

hung from every branch. Everything indicated a cold frigid soil. In the

act of encamping, it commenced raining, which gave a double gloom to the

place. Several species of duck were brought from the different canoes as

the result of the day's hunt.

Early the next morning we resumed the ascent. The river became narrow

and tortuous. Clumps of willow and alder lined the shore. Wherever

larger species were seen they were gray pines or tamarack. One of the

Indians killed a deer, of the species _C. Virginea_, during the morning.

Ducks were frequently disturbed as we pushed up the winding channel. The

shores were often too sedgy and wet to permit our landing, and we went

on till twelve o'clock before finding a suitable spot to breakfast.

About five o'clock we came to a high diluvial ridge of gravel and sand,

mixed with boulders of syenite, trap-rock, quartz, and sandstone.

Ozawandib, our guide, said we were near the junction of the Naiwa, or

Copper-snake River, the principal tributary of this branch of the

Mississippi, and that it was necessary to make a passage over this ridge

to avoid a formidable series of rapids. Our track lay across a

peninsula. This occupied the remainder of the day, and we encamped on

the banks of the stream above the rapids and pitched our tent, before

daylight had finally departed. The position of the sun, in this

latitude, it must be recollected, is protracted, very perceptibly, above

the horizon. We ascended to the summit in a series of geological steps

or plateaux. There is but little perceptible rise from the Cross-water

level to this point--called Agate Rapids and Portage, from the

occurrence of this mineral in the drift. The descent of water at this

place cannot be less than seventy feet. On resuming the journey the next

morning (13th) we found the water above these rapids had almost the

appearance of a dead level. The current is very gentle; and, by its

diminished volume, denotes clearly the absence of the contributions from

the Naiwa. About seven miles above the Agate Portage we entered Lake

Assawa, which our Indian guide informed us was the source of this

branch. We were precisely twenty minutes in passing through it, with the

full force of paddles. It receives two small inlets, the most southerly

of which we entered, and the canoes soon stuck fast, amidst aquatic

plants, on a boggy shore. I did not know, for a moment, the cause of our

having grounded, till Ozawandib exclaimed, "O-um-a, mikun-na!" here is

the portage! We were at the Southern flanks of the diluvial hills,

called HAUTEUR DES TERRES--a geological formation of drift materials,

which form one of the continental water-sheds, dividing the streams

tributary to the Gulf of Mexico, from those of Hudson's Bay. He

described the portage as consisting of twelve _pug-gi-de-nun_, or

resting places, where the men are temporarily eased of their burdens.

This was indefinite, depending on the measure of a man's strength to

carry. Not only our baggage, but the canoes were to be carried. After

taking breakfast, on the nearest dry ground, the different back-loads

for the men were prepared. Ozawandib threw my canoe over his shoulders

and led the way. The rest followed, with their appointed loads. I

charged myself with a spy-glass, strapped, and portfolio. Dr. Houghton

carried a plant press. Each one had something, and the men toiled with

five canoes, Our provisions, beds, tent, &c. The path was one of the

most intricate and tangled that I ever knew. Tornadoes appeared to have

cast down the trees in every direction. A soft spongy mass, that gave

way under the tread, covered the interstices between the fallen timber.

The toil and fatigue were incessant. At length we ascended the first

height. It was an arid eminence of the pebble and erratic block era,

bearing small gray pines and shrubbery. This constituted our first

pause, or _puggidenun._ On descending it, we were again plunged among

bramble. Path, there was none, or trail that any mortal eye, but an

Indian's, could trace. We ascended another eminence. We descended it,

and entered a thicket of bramble, every twig of which seemed placed

there to bear some token of our wardrobe, as we passed. To avoid this,

the guide passed through a lengthened shallow pond, beyond which the

walking was easier. Hill succeeded hill. It was a hot day in July, and

the sun shone out brightly. Although we were evidently passing an alpine

height, where a long winter reigned, and the vegetation bore every

indication of being imperfectly developed. We observed the passenger

pigeon, and one or two species of the _falco_ family. There were

indications of the common deer. Moss hung abundantly from the trees. The

gray pine predominated in the forest growth.

At length, the glittering of water appeared, at a distance below, as

viewed from the summit of one of these eminences. It was declared by our

Indian guide to be Itasca Lake--the source of the main, or South fork of

the Mississippi. I passed him, as we descended a long winding slope, and

was the first man to reach its banks. A little grassy opening served as

the terminus of our trail, and proved that the Indians had been in the

practice of crossing this eminence in their hunts. As one after another

of the party came, we exulted in the accomplishment of our search. A

fire was quickly kindled, and the canoes gummed, preparatory to

embarkation.

We had struck within a mile of the southern extremity of the lake, and

could plainly see its terminus from the place of our embarking. The view

was quite enchanting. The waters were of the most limpid character. The

shores were overhung with hard wood foliage, mixed with species of

spruce, larch, and aspen. We judged it to be about seven miles in

length, by an average of one to two broad. A bay, near its eastern-end,

gave it somewhat the shape of the letter y. We observed a deer standing

in the water. Wild fowl appeared to be abundant. We landed at the only

island it contains--a beautiful spot for encampment, covered with the

elm, cherry, larch, maple, and birch, and giving evidence, by the

remains of old camp-fires, and scattered bones of species killed in the

chase, of its having been much resorted to by the aborigines.

This picturesque island the party honored me by calling after my

name--in which they have been sanctioned by Nicollet and other

geographers. I caused some trees to be felled, pitched my tent, and

raised the American flag on a high staff, the Indians firing a salute

as it rose.

This flag, as the evidence of the government having extended its

jurisdiction to this quarter, I left flying, on quitting the island--and

presume the band of Ozawandib, at Cass Lake, afterwards appropriated it

to themselves.

Questions of geography and astronomy may deserve a moment's attention.

If we assume the discovery of the mouth of the Mississippi to have been

made by Narvaez in 1527--a doubtful point!--a period of 305 years has

elapsed before its actual source has been fixed. If the date of De

Soto's journey (1541) be taken, which is undisputed, this period is

reduced to 290 years. Hennepin saw it as high as the mouth of the river

St. Francis in 1680. Lt. Pike, under the administration of Mr.

Jefferson, ascended it by water in 1805, near to the entrance of Elk

River, south of the Crow Wing Fork, and being overtaken at this spot by

frosts and snow, and winter setting in strongly, he afterwards ascended

its banks, on snow shoes, his men carrying his baggage on hand sleds, to

Sandy Lake, then a post of the North-west Company. From this point he

was carried forward, under their auspices, by the Canadian train

_de-glis,_ drawn by dogs to Leech Lake; and eventually, by the same

conveyance, to what is now denominated Cass Lake, or upper _Lac Cedre

Rogue_. This he reached in January, 1806, and it formed the terminus of

his journey.

In 1820, Gen. Cass visited Sandy Lake, by the way of Lake Superior, with

a strong party, and exploratory outfit, under the authority of the

government. He encamped the bulk of his party at Sandy Lake, depositing

all his heavy supplies, and fitted out a light party in two canoes, to

trace up the river to its source. After ascending to the point of land

at the entrance of Turtle River into Cass Lake, it was found, from

Indian accounts, that he could not ascend higher in the state of the

water with his heavy canoes, if, indeed, his supplies or the time at

his command would have permitted him to accomplish it, compatibly with

other objects of his instructions. This, therefore, constituted the

terminal point of his journey.

The length of the river, from the Gulf of Mexico to Itasca Lake, has

been estimated at 3,160 miles. Barometrical observations show its

altitude, above the same point, to be 1,680 feet--which denotes an

average descent of a fraction over six inches per mile.

The latitude of Itasca Lake has been accurately determined to be 47° 13'

35"--which is nearly two degrees south of the position assigned to it by

the best geographers in 1783, the date of the definite treaty of peace

between the United States and Great Britain.

The reason of this geographical mistake has been satisfactorily shown in

traversing up the stream from the summit of the Pemidjegomag, or

Cross-water Lake--during which, the general course of the ascent is

due south.

CHAPTER XLIV.

Descent of the Mississippi River, from Itasca Lake to Cass Lake--Traits

of its bank--Kabika Falls--Upsetting of a canoe--River descends by

steps, and through narrow rocky passes--Portage to the source of the

Crow-Wing River--Moss Lake--Shiba Lake--Leech Lake--Warpool Lake--Long

Lake Mountain portage--Kaginogomanug--Vermilion Lake--Ossawa Lake-Shell

River--Leaf River--Long Prairie River--Kioskk, or Gull River--Arrival at

its mouth--Descent to the Falls of St. Anthony, and St. Peter's--Return

to St. Mary's.

1832, _July 14th_. I found the outlet of Itasca Lake to be about twelve

feet wide, and some twelve to fourteen inches deep. The water is of

crystal purity, and the current very rapid. We were urged along with

great velocity. It required incessant vigilance on the part of the men

to prevent our frail vessels from being dashed against boulders. For

about twelve miles the channel was not only narrow, but exceedingly

crooked. Often, where the water was most deep and rapid, it did not

appear to exceed ten feet in width. Trees which had fallen from the

banks required, sometimes, to be cut away to allow the canoes to pass,

and it required unceasing vigilance to avoid piles of drifted wood or

boulders. As we were borne along in vessels of bark, not more than

one-eighth of an inch thick, a failure to fend off, or hit the proper

guiding point, in any one place, would have been fraught with instant

destruction. And we sat in a perfect excitement during this distance.

The stream then deployed, for a distance of some eight miles, into a

savannah or plain, with narrow grassy borders in which its width was

doubled, its depth decreased, and the current less furious. We went

through these windings with more assurance and composure. It was one of

the minor plateaux in which this stream descends. The channel then

narrowed and deepened itself for another plunge, and soon brought us to

the top of the Kabika Palls. This pass, as the name imports, is a

cascade over rocks. The river is pent up, between opposing trap rock,

which are not over ten feet apart. Its depth is about four feet, and

velocity perfectly furious. It is not impossible to descend it, as there

is no abrupt pitch, but such a trial would seem next to madness. We made

a portage with our canoes of about a quarter of a mile across a

peninsula, and embarked again at the foot of the falls, where the stream

again expands to more than double its former width, and the scenery

assumes a milder aspect. It is another plateau.

Daylight had departed when we encamped on a high sandy bank on the left

shore. We were perfectly exhausted with labor, and the thrilling

excitement of the day. It seemed, while flying through its furious

passes, as if this stream was impatient for its development, and, like

an unrestrained youth, was bent on overthrowing every obstacle, on the

instant, that opposed its advance and expansion. A war horse could not

have been more impatient to rush on to his destiny.

We were in motion again in our canoes at five o'clock the next morning.

At an early hour my Indian guide landed to fire at some deer. He could

not, however, get close enough to make an effectual shot. Before the

animals were, however, out of range, he loaded, without wadding, and

fired again, but also without effect. After passing a third plateau

through which the river winds, with grassy borders, we found it once

more to contract for another descent, which we made without leaving our

canoes, not, however, without imminent peril and loss. Lieut. Allen had

halted to make some observations, when his men incautiously failed for a

moment to keep his canoe direct in the current. The moment it assumed a

transverse position, which they attempted to fix by grasping some bushes

on the opposite bank, the water dashed over the gunwales, and swept all

to the bottom. He succeeded in gaining his feet, though the current was

waist high, and recovered his fowling piece, but irretrievably lost his

canoe-compass, a nautical balanced instrument, and everything besides.

Fortunately I had a fine small land-compass, which Gen. Macomb had

presented to the late John Johnston, Esq., of St. Mary's, many years

before, and thus I measurably repaired his loss. On descending this

channel, the river again displayed itself in savannas, and assumed a

width which it afterwards maintained, and lost its savage ferocity of

current, though still strong.

On this plateau, the river receiving on its left the War River, or

Piniddiwin (the term has relation to the mangled flesh of those slain in

battle), a considerable stream, at the mouth of which the Indian reed

first shows itself. We had, the day previous, noticed the Chemaun, or

Canoe River, tributary from the right bank. Minor tributaries were not

noticed. The volume of water was manifestly increased from various

sources. At a spot where we landed, as evening came on, we observed a

species of striped lizard, which our guide called Okautekinabic, which

signifies legged-snake. Various species of the duck and other water fowl

were almost continually in sight. We reached the junction of the

Plantagenet Fork about one o'clock at night (15th), and rapidly passing

the Irving and Cross-water Lakes, descended to Cass Lake, reaching our

encampment at nine o'clock in the morning.

A day's rest restored the party from its fatigues, and we set out at ten

o'clock the following day (16th) for Leech Lake, by the overland route.

Two hours rowing brought us to a fine sandy beach at the head of a bay,

which was named Pike's Bay, from Lieut. Pike having approached from this

direction in the winter of 1806. Here the baggage and canoes were

prepared for a portage. A walk of nine hundred and fifty yards, through

open pine forest, brought us to the banks of Moss Lake, which we passed

in canoes. A portage of about two miles and a-half was now made to the

banks of a small lake, which, as I heard no name for it, was called

Shiba, from the initials of the names of the five gentlemen of the

party.[62] This lake has an outlet into a large stream, which the

Pillager Chippewas call Kapuka Sagitawag. It was nearly dark when we

embarked on this stream, which soon led, by a very narrow and winding

channel, into the main river. Pushing on, we reached and crossed an arm

of the lake to the principal Indian village of Guelle Plat, Leech Lake,

which we reached at ten o'clock at night.

[Footnote 62: Schoolcraft, Houghton, Johnston, Boutwell, Allen.]

The next day (17th) was passed in council with them, till late in the

afternoon, when I embarked, and went a couple of leagues to encamp, in

order to rid myself fully of the village throng, and be ready for an

early start in the morning. It was my determination to pass inland

south-westerly by an Indian trail, so as to strike the source of the

Crow Wing or De Corbeau River, one of the great tributaries of the

Mississippi which remained unexplored.

We found the entrance to this portage early the next morning (18th).

After following the trail about three-fourths of a mile we reached and

crossed a small lake called Warpool. A small and intricate outlet led

successively to Little Long Lake, the Two Lakes, and the Lake of the

Mountain. Here commenced a highland portage of over 900 yards to the

Lake of the Island--another portage of some 2000 yards was then made to

Midlake, and finally another of one _puggidenun_, partly through a bog,

but terminating on elevated grounds at the head of a considerable and

handsome body of water called Kaginogamaug, or The Long Water. This is

the source of the De Corbeau River, and here we encamped for the night.

We had how crossed the summit between Leech Lake and the source of the

Crow Wing River. We commenced the descent on the morning of the 19th,

and passed successively through eleven lakes, connected by a series of

short channels. The names of these in their order, are Kaginogamaug,

Little Vermilion, Birch, Ple, Assawa, Vieu Desert, Summit, Longrice,

Allen's, Johnston's, and Kaitchibo Sagitawa. Two tributary streams enter

the river in this distance, the principal of which is Shell River; the

stream assumes an ample size, and there is no further apprehension of

shallows. Next day (20th) we passed the influx of six rivers, the

largest of which is Leaf River, coming in from the West. The channel has

now attained a bold and sweeping force. It required part of another day

to reach its mouth, in the course of which it is joined by the Long

Prairie River from the right, and the Kioshk or Gall River from the

left. An alluvial island, with a heavy forest, exists at the point of

its confluence with the Mississippi River. We encamped at the Pierced

Prairie, eighteen miles below the junction, and were less than two days

in a high state of the water, in reaching St. Anthony's falls.

_24th_. I arrived at St. Peter's about two o'clock in the afternoon, and

entered and encamped on the open common on the banks of the river. The

Indian agent (Mr. Tallieferro) was absent. I found Captain Jouett in

command of the fort, and in charge of Indian affairs. He received me in

a cordial manner, and offered every facility in his power to effect the

objects of my mission among the hostile tribes. No recent news from the

seat of operation against the Black Hawk and his adherents was known.

Recent details were, however, imprecise. Captain Jouett had kept up, I

think, the mail communication with Prairie du Chien, by a canoe sent

once a fortnight. The murder of St. Vrain, the events on the Rock River

with the Illinois militia, and the movements on foot to chastise the

hostile Sauks and Foxes, were among the latest items of intelligence.

But nothing was known of the actual position of the Black Hawk and his

followers. My determinations, therefore, as to the route to be pursued,

in returning home, were made in entire ignorance of the fact, that at

that time, the Black Hawk had been driven before Gens. Atkinson and

Dodge to the banks of the Mississippi, at the mouth of the Badaxe

River--where he completely intercepted all communication between the

posts of St. Peter's and Prairie du Chien.

_25th_. I held a council with the Sioux at the Agency Buildings; at

which the tribe disclaimed, by their speakers, having any connection

with the Sauk and Fox league, or having permitted any of their warriors

to join in it. They professed a readiness to furnish warriors to aid the

government in suppressing it.

On returning to my tent, I sat down and wrote to the editor of a Western

paper, as follows:--

ST. PETERS, _July 25th_, 1882.

SIR:--I arrived at this place yesterday, from an expedition through the

Chippewa country on the sources of the Mississippi, accompanied by a

detachment of troops under Lieut. Allen of the 5th Infantry. I have

traced this river to its actual source. On reaching the point to which

it had been formerly explored, I found the water in a favorable state

for ascending; and I availed myself of this circumstance to carry into

effect the desire of visiting its actual source, a point which has

continued to be problematical in our geography. Pike placed it at Leech

Lake in 1806. Gov. Cass carried it much further north, and left it at

Upper Red Cedar Lake in 1820. But it was then ascertained that its

sources were considerably north and west of that lake, which is in lat.

47° 25'. I encamped the expedition, the troops and heavy baggage, at

this lake, and proceeded up the river in five small birch canoes,

capable of containing one man and his bed, in addition to the Indian and

Canadian who conducted it. The Mississippi expands into several lakes,

the largest of which is called Lac Traverse. A few miles above this

occurs the junction of its south-west and north-west branch. The former

I called the Plantagenet, and ascended it through La Salle, Marquette,

and Assawa Lakes to a small creek at the foot of the Hauteur des Terres.

From this point a portage was made over difficult ascents, and through

defiles for about six miles, when we reached the banks of Itasca Lake,

the source of the other and longer branch. To this point we transported

our canoes and baggage. It is a most beautiful and clear lake, about

seven miles long, and lying somewhat in the shape of a y. I found an

island in it, upon which I landed and encamped, and, after causing some

trees to be felled, hoisted the United States flag. I left this flag

flying, and returned down the Itascan branch to my starting point.

I found the Indians friendly, and having no apparent connection with the

movements of Black Hawk, although they are subject to an unpropitious

influence from the Hudson's Bay Company, the agents of which allure them

to carry their trade into that province. The American traders complain

of this with great reason. Many of the Chippewas visit the British posts

in Canada, and their old prejudices are kept alive in various ways; but

I was everywhere received with amity and respect.

_26th_. Having concluded my affairs at St, Peters, I determined to

return to the basin of Lake Superior, by ascending the river St. Croix

to its source, and passing across the portage of the Misakoda, or

Burntwood River, into the Fond du Lac Bay. This I accomplished with

great toil, owing to the low state of the water, in ten days; and, after

spending ten days more in traversing the lengthened shores and bays of

Lake Superior from _La Pointe_, returned to Sault St. Marie on the 14th

of August.

_Aug. 15th_. I had now accomplished the discovery of the true source of

the Mississippi River--and settled a problem which has so long remained

a subject of uncertainty in the geography of this celebrated river. If

De Soto began it (and of this there seems little question, for Narvaez

perished before reaching it), and Marquette and Joliet continued it; if

Hennepin and Pike and Cass carried these explorations higher, I, at

least, went to its remoter points, and thence traced the river to its

primary forks--ascended the one, crossed the heights of Itasca to the

other, and descended the latter in its whole length. This has been done

in a quiet way, without heralding or noise, but under the orders and at

the expense of the United States.

CHAPTER XLV.

Letter from a mother--Cholera--Indian war--Royal Geographical

Society--Determine to leave the Sault--Death of Miss Cass--Death of Rev.

Mr. Richard--Notice of the establishment of a Methodist Mission at

the--The Sault a religious place--Botany and Natural History--New

University organized--Algic Society--Canadian boat song--Chaplains in

the army--Letter from a missionary--Affairs at Mackinack--Hazards lake

commerce--Question of the temperance reform--Dr. D. Houghton--South

Carolina resists--Gen. Jackson re-elected President.

1832. _Aug. 25th_. To clear my table of the correspondence accumulated

during my absence, and report my proceedings to government, required my

first attention. Among the matters purely personal, was a letter of

inquiry from a mother anxious to learn the fate of an apparently wayward

son (named George J. Clark). "I had a letter from him, dated 24th June,

1881, in which he stated he was about to start with you on an expedition

to the Upper Mississippi, and this is the last intelligence we have ever

had of him.

"If he went with you on that expedition, you have, probably some

information to give relative to his present condition, if alive, or of

his fate, if dead.

"Will you be kind enough to give the information desired by letter to

me, at this place (Canandaigua, N. Y.)? By so doing you will confer a

favor on a fond mother and many friends." Not a lisp had ever been heard

of such a person, at least by that name.

The whole country, it was found, had now been in commotion for a month

or more, owing to the ravages of the cholera and the Black Hawk war. The

cholera had first broken out, it appears, in the Upper Lakes, on board

the steamers Sheldon Thompson and Henry Clay, containing troops for the

war. Its ravages on board of both were fearful. One of the boats landed

several soldiers at the island of Michilimackinack, who died there. A

boatman engaged in the fur trade took the disease and died after he had

reached the Little Rapids, and another at _Point aux Pins_, at the foot

of Lake Superior. But the disease did not spread in that latitude. "We

have heard," says a correspondent (25th July), "from Chicago, that the

ravages of the cholera are tenfold worse than the scalping-knife of the

Black Hawk and his party. A great many soldiers died, while on their way

to Chicago, on board the steamers."

_27th_. The agent of the dead-letter post-office, at Washington,

transmits me a diploma of membership of the Royal Geographical Society

of London, which appears to have been originally misdirected and gone

astray to St. Mary's, Georgia. The envelope had on it the general

direction of "United States, America"--a wide place to find a man in.

_Sept. 11th_. A letter, of this date, from the head of the Department,

at Washington, leaves it optional with me, under the consolidation of

agencies, to choose my place of residence. "You can make your own choice

of residence between the Sault and Mackinack, and arrange your

subordinate offices as you think proper."

I determined to remove the seat of the agency to Mackinack next spring,

and to make this my last winter at the Sault. I have now been ten years

a resident of this place.

The most serious inroad upon my circle of friends, made by death during

my absence, was the sudden death, at Detroit, of the eldest daughter of

the Secretary of War. Miss Elizabeth Selden Cass was a young lady of

bright mental qualities, and easy, cultivated manners and deportment,

and her sudden removal, though prepared by her moral experience for the

change, must leave a blank in social circles which will be long felt

and deplored.

Her father writes, upon this irreparable loss: "A breach has been made

in our domestic circle which can never be repaired. I can yet hardly

realize the change. It has almost prostrated me, and I should abandon

office without hesitation were it not that a change of climate seems

indispensable to Mrs. C., and I trust she will avoid in Washington those

severe attacks to which she has been subject for the last five winters."

_12th_. Mr. Trowbridge writes: "Mr. Richard is dead. He was attacked by

a diarrhoea, and neglected it too long." Mr. R. was the Catholic priest

at Detroit, and as such has been a prominent man in the territory for

many years. He was elected Delegate to Congress in 1824, I think, and

served two years in that capacity. I once heard him preach nearly two

hours on the real presence. He finally said, "that if this doctrine was

not true, Jesus Christ must be a fool." These, I think, were the precise

words. When attending, by rotation, as one of the chaplains for the

Legislative Council while I was a member, he used to pray very shrewdly

"that the legislators might make laws for the people and not for

themselves." He spoke English in a broken manner and with a false

accent, which often gave interest to what he said when the matter was

not otherwise remarkable.

_22d_. Rev. John Clark, of Northville, Montgomery Co., N.Y., of the

Methodist Connection, writes: "Should it please Divine Providence, I

hope to be at your place in May or June next, for the purpose of opening

a permanent mission and school among the Chippewas at such place, and as

early as may be advisable."

_27th_. Rev. W. T. Boutwell, of the A. B. Commissioners for Foreign

Missions, now at La Pointe, Lake Superior, writes: "I could not, to a

degree, help entering into all your anxieties about the cholera, which

reports were calculated to beget, but rejoice, not less than yourself,

that the Lord has spared those who are dear to us both. My fears, I

rejoice to say, have not been realized, in relation to my friends at

Mackinack and the Sault, when I heard of the disease actually existing

at Mackinack. Were it not that the Lord is righteous and knoweth them

that are his, the righteous even might fear and tremble, when judgments

are abroad in the land.

"I was happy indeed to learn that you remain at the Sault, the present

winter. Happy for brother Porter's sake, and for the sake of those whose

hands you may and will strengthen, and hearts encourage. I never think

of the Sault but I wish myself there. 'It is now a happy spot--a place

favored of heaven,' said one of my Mackinack friends to me once in

conversation; 'I once felt as though I could never see that place, as I

always associated with it everything wicked, but now I should love to go

there--the Lord is there.'"

_Oct. 5th_. Dr. Torrey writes from N.Y.: "I rejoice to learn that you

have returned in safety from your fatiguing and perilous journey to the

north-west. Dr. Houghton wrote me a letter which I received a few days

ago, dated Sault de St. Marie, stating the general results of the

expedition, but I have read, with great satisfaction, the account which

was published in the _Detroit Journal_ of Sept. 26th. A kind Providence

has preserved you during another absence, and I hope He will cause the

results of your labors to prove a blessing to our Red brethren, as well

as the United States at large."

"Dr. Houghton sent me some of the more interesting plants which he

brought with him last year, but he said the best part of your

collections were destroyed by getting wet.

"By all means send Mr. Cooper your shells. He knows more about fresh

water shells than any naturalist in New York. By the way, have you seen

Mr. Lea's splendid monograph (with colored plates) of Unios, in the

_Transactions of the American Philosophical Society?"_

"Are we to have a narrative of the two expeditions in print? I hope you

consent to publish, and let us have an appendix containing descriptions

of the objects in natural history.

"You have heard, perhaps, something about the University of the City of

New York, which was planned about two years ago. It went into operation

a few days ago, under the most favorable prospects. The council have

given me a place in it (Prof. Chem. Bot. and Mineralogy), the duties of

which I can discharge in addition to those which I attend to in the

medical college, as the latter occupies only four months in the year."

About the middle of September I embarked at the Sault for Detroit, for

the purpose chiefly of meeting the Secretary of War--taking with me thus

far, my little sister Anna Maria, on her way to school at Hadley, in

Massachusetts. While at Detroit, several meetings of benevolent

individuals were held, and the constitution of the Algic Society was

signed by many gentlemen of standing and note, and an election of

officers made. Having been honored with the presidency, I delivered a

brief address at one of these meetings. This, together with the

following resolutions, which were passed at the same time, indicate the

contemplated mode of action.[63] It was not intended to be exclusively a

missionary or educational society, but also, to collect scientific and

statistical information essential to both objects, and to offer

facilities to laborers on the frontiers, and answer inquiries made by

agents authorized by the General Boards from the old States. The effort

was appreciated and warmly approved by the friends of missions and

humanity; but it required great and continual personal efforts to enlist

a sufficient number of persons in the true objects, and to keep their

minds alive in the work. It demanded, in fact, a kind of literary

research, which it is always difficult to command on the frontiers. To

act, and not to pursue the quiet paths of study, is the tendency of the

frontier mind.

[Footnote 63: _Resolved_, That the thanks of the society be presented to

Henry R. Schoolcraft, Esq., for the valuable introductory remarks

offered by him, and that he be requested to furnish a copy of the same

for publication.

_Resolved_, That the Domestic Secretary, be directed to prepare and

submit for the approbation of the Official Board, a Circular, to be

addressed to such persons as have been elected members of this society,

and others, setting forth its objects, its organization, constitution,

and initial proceedings, which circular, when so prepared, shall be

printed for the purpose of distribution.

_Resolved_, That the Official Board be directed to prepare a succinct

Temperance and Peace Circular, suited to the wants and situation of the

North-western Tribes, to be addressed, through the intervention of the

Hon. the Secretary of War, to the Agents of the Government and Officers

commanding posts on the frontiers, and also to persons engaged in the

fur trade; to travelers, and to gentlemen residing in the country,

requesting their aid in spreading its influence.

_Resolved_, That it is expedient for this society to procure an exact

statistical account of the names, numbers and location of the different

bands of Indians, of the Algonquin stock, now living within the limits

of the United States:--also, the number of missionaries who are now

amongst them, and the extent of the field of labor which they present.

_Resolved_, That this society will aid in sending a winter express to

the missionaries who are now stationed near the western extremity of

Lake Superior.

_Resolved_, That the members of this society residing at Sault St. Marie

and at Michilimackinack, shall constitute a standing committee of this

society, during the ensuing year, with power to meet for the transaction

of business, and shall report from time to time, such measures as they

may have adopted to promote the objects of this institution: which

proceedings shall be submitted to the society at any stated or special

meeting of the same, and if approved by them, shall be entered on the

records of the society.

_Resolved_, That the President of this society be requested to deliver,

at such time as shall be convenient to himself, a course of Lectures on

the Grammatical construction of the Algonquin language, as spoken by the

North-Western Tribes, and to procure, from living and authentic sources,

a full and complete Lexicon of that language, for the use of

the society.

_Resolved_, That the Rev. Beriah Green, of the Western Reserve College,

be requested to deliver an address before the society at its next annual

meeting: and, that Henry R. Schoolcraft, Esq., be requested to deliver a

poem on the Indian Character, at the same meeting.

_Resolved_, That the first anniversary of this society be held at

Detroit, on the second Thursday of October, A. D. 1833.]

I returned to St. Mary's about the middle of October. It was a proof of

the care and precision with which my friends looked out for me, that I

was met by my "_canoe-elège"_ with a French crew and flag flying at the

Detour, before the vessel had dropped anchor, so that I went up the

river with the accustomed gayety of a song. These French songs have been

often alluded to. One of them, the measure of which is adapted, by its

music, to the short stroke of the paddle, is given below.[64]

[Footnote 64: Omitted.]

_15th_. Dr. Peters, Secretary of Home Missions, writes to me, from on

board a steamboat on Lake Erie, proposing a plan for bringing the

subject of chaplaincies in the army to the notice of the Secretary

of War.

A letter from a missionary (Boutwell) at La Pointe, L.S., says: "I

endeavor daily to do something at the language. But imagine for one

moment, what you could do with a boy (his interpreter) who knows neither

English, French nor Indian, and yet is in the habit of mangling all.

Still I am satisfied he is the best Brother F. could send, though but

_one_ remove from none. Of one thing I am determined, that if I cannot

teach him English, I can to cut bushes. However, I find, by daily

visiting the lodges, that I may retain, and probably add a little now

and then. I find there is a trifling difference between the language

here, and as spoken at the Sault. The difference consists principally in

the accent. I find the interchangeables, if possible, more irregular

here than there.

"The old chief (Pezhiki) is very pleasant and kind. I find him a very

good standard for testing accents. His enunciation is very distinct."

_25th_. The sub-agent in charge at Mackinack writes: "The schooner

'White Pigeon' came in this afternoon from Green Bay, having on board

Major Fowle's Company. She is to sail early to-morrow morning for

the Sault.

"The Indians appear satisfied with their treatment at this office, and

it has been observed by them, that more work has been done for them

since my arrival here than Colonel B. did for them in one year."

His Excellency, Gov. Porter, called here (on his way to Green Bay) and

examined the buildings and rooms of the agency. Casting a hasty look, he

observed that the building would bring an income of four or five hundred

dollars annually, were it at Detroit, for rent. He was of opinion that

the outer steps required repairs, &c.

"Gen. Brook sailed on board the 'Black Hawk' for Green Bay on Sabbath

last, accompanied by Lieut. Stockton, and Messrs. Dousman, Abbott, and

King. Major Thomson (who relieves him) arrived on Monday last, with the

whole of his troops and the officers under his command, Captain Cobbs,

Lieut. Gallagher, and Lieut. Patten.

"Lieut. Gallagher joined us at our evening social prayer meeting last

night, and it was really cheering and reviving to hear him pray. He is

gifted with talent and abilities, and withal meekness and humility."

_Nov. 1st_. The same agent writes: "I forward to you the chief

Shaubowayway's map of that section of the country lying between the

Detour and Point St. Ignace, including all the islands on that coast. I

am now waiting for the chief to proceed to Chenos as a guide, to enable

us to strike in a straight line from thence to Muddy Lake River. Messrs.

David Stuart and Mitchell will accompany me."

_19th_. Mr. Johnston writes: "I volunteered my services to accompany Mr.

Ferry to get off the partial wreck of the mission schooner 'Supply,'

near the second entrance of the Chenos, eighteen miles from this. Major

Thompson furnished a detachment of fifteen men under Captain Cobbs.

George Dousman went also with three of the Company's men. Four days'

efforts were cheerfully rendered, and the vessel saved and brought into

the harbor."

_25th_. As commerce increases, and stretches out her Briarean hands into

the stormy roads and bays of these heretofore uninhabited lakes, losses

from wrecks annually redouble. And the want of light-houses, buoys, and

harbors is more strongly shown. James Abbott, a licensed trader, was

cast ashore by the tempests of Lake Superior, at La Pointe, and, being

unable to proceed to his designated post, was obliged to winter there.

He gave out his credits, and spread his men, therefore, in another

man's district. The agent at Mackinack (E. Stuart) writes, complaining

of, and requesting me to interpose in the matter, so as "to confine his

trade to such limits as may be equitable to all." It would be impossible

to foresee such accidents, and appears almost equally so to correct the

irregularities, now that they are done. The difficulty seems rather to

have been the employment of a clerk, whose action the Company could not

fully control.

_29th_. Mr. B. E. Stickney, of Vistula (now Toledo), writes: "A few days

ago I received from the author, with which I was much pleased, 'an

Address before the Chippewa County Temperance Society on the Influence

of Ardent Spirits on the Condition of the North American Indians.' We

conceived it to be the most fortunate effort of your pen upon the

greatest subject. While we have so much reason to approve, we hope you

will permit us to be frank. We conceive that, although you have been

more cautious than is common, in touching sectarianism, yet, if you had

not named, or made any kind of allusion to any religious sect,

Christian, Jew, Pagan, or Mohammedan, you would have produced more

effect. There are many individuals who neither touch, taste, nor handle

this most dangerous of all poisons, who yet refuse to join in the

general effort to destroy, prevent the use, or furnish an antidote,

because they conceive that the sectarian poison is not an inferior evil,

unless it may, perhaps, be so to the use of alcohol."

The true, but concealed, objection of this class of non-concurrents in

the cause is not, it is apprehended to "sectarianism," _per se,_ or in

any other sense than that it is an evidence of practical

Christianity--of morals and axioms based on the teachings of the great

Founder of the system--of a belief in a moral accountability to give all

influence possessed to advance the adoption of its maxims among men--in

fine, of a living, constant, undying faith, not only in the truth of

these maxims, but in the divinity of the sublime UTTERER of them.

_Dec. 10th_. Dr. Houghton, my companion in two expeditions into the

Indian country, writes from Detroit: "You will undoubtedly be a little

surprised to learn that I am now in Detroit, but probably not more than

I am in being here. My passage through Lake Huron was tedious beyond

endurance; and so long was I detained in consequence of it, that it

became useless for me to proceed to New York. Under these circumstances,

after having visited Fredonia, I determined to engage in the practice

of my profession, in this place, at least until spring. It is only these

three days since I arrived here and I am not yet completely settled, but

probably will be in a few days."

[Here are the initial motives of a man who became a permanent and noted

citizen of the territory, and engaged with great ardor in exploring its

physical geography and resources. For two years, he was intimately

associated with me; and I saw him under various circumstances of fatigue

and trial in the wilderness, but always preserving his equanimity and

cheerfulness. He was a zealous botanist, and a discriminating geologist.

Assiduous and temperate, an accurate observer of phenomena, he

accumulated facts in the physical history of the country which

continually increased the knowledge of its features and character. He

was the means of connecting geological observations with the linear

surveys of the General Land Office, and had been several years engaged

on the geological survey of Michigan, when the melancholy event of his

death, in 1846, in a storm on Lake Superior, was announced.]

_12th_. E.A. Brush, Esq., of Detroit, writes: "Everybody--not here only,

but through the Union--seems to think with just foreboding of the result

of the measures taken by South Carolina. Their convention have

determined to resist, after the first day of (I think) February.

"Gov. Cass's family are well, but he has not been heard from personally

since he left here. He is too much occupied, I suppose, with the affairs

of his department, at the opening of the session. Of course, you know

that General Jackson and Van Buren are in."

CHAPTER XLVI.

An Indian woman builds a church--Conchology--South Carolina prepares to

resist the revenue laws--Moral affairs--Geography--Botany--Chippewas and

Sioux--A native evangelist in John Sunday--His letter in English; its

philological value--The plural pronoun _we_--An Indian battle--Political

affairs--South Carolina affairs--Tariff compromise of Mr. Clay--Algic

Society; it employs native evangelists--Plan of visiting

Europe--President's tour--History of Detroit--Fresh-water shells--Lake

tides--Prairie--Country--Reminiscence.

1833. _Jan. 1st_. A remarkable thing recently transpired. Mrs. Susan

Johnston, a widow--an Indian woman by father and mother--built a church

for the Presbyterian congregation at this place. The building, which is

neat and plain, without a steeple, was finished early in the fall, and

has been occupied this season for preaching, lectures, &c. Certainly, on

the assumption of theories, there is nothing predicted against the

descendants of Shem ministering in good things to those of Japhet; but

it is an instance, the like of which I doubt whether there has happened

since the Discovery. The translation of the Indian name of this female

is Woman of the Green Valley; or, according to the polysyllabical system

of her people, O-shé-wush-ko-da-wá-qua.

_2d_. Mr. John M. Earle, of Worcester, Mass., solicits contributions to

his collection of fresh-water shells. "I have a higher object in view,"

he remarks, "than the mere making of a collection--viz., doing what I

can to ascertain what new species remain undescribed, and what ones of

those already described may be only varieties of others; and, in fine,

by a careful examination of a large number of shells, brought together

from various localities, to fix, more accurately than it has heretofore

been done, the nomenclature of the several genera and species, and so

particularly to define their specific characteristics as to leave little

doubt on the subject. The great variety of our fresh-water shells,

exceeding that of any other country, seems to require something of this

kind, in addition to the valuable labors of Say, Barnes, Lea, and

others, who, although they have done much, have yet left much to be done

by others, and have made some mistakes which require rectifying."

_14th_. Mr. Trowbridge writes from Detroit: "The period intervening

since your last visit to this place has been an eventful one to the

nation. South Carolina, driven on by a few infatuated men, has made a

bold effort to shake off the bonds of Union and Federal Law, and, to the

minds of some in whom you and I repose the utmost confidence, a happy

government seems to totter on the brink of dissolution. It is a long

story, and the papers will tell you all. God grant that the impending

evil may be averted, and that the moral and religious improvement of

this government may not be retarded by civil war." It is thought that

this event, and the course taken by the President, will produce a great

reaction in his favor, and that he will be supported by his old

political opponents. The governor is much occupied. It is supposed the

proclamation is from his pen.

_18th_. M. Merrill announces the opening of an infant school, in which

he is to be assisted by Mrs. Merrill, on Monday next.

_21st_. Rev. J. Porter, pastor of the Presbyterian Church, reports to

the Algic Society, that there is but little in the present state of

religion here that is propitious. "Of the little church gathered here

during the last year, ten persons are absent, scattered wildly through

our land. There now remain twenty-six or twenty-eight communicants.

These seem, in a measure, discouraged by the present indifference. The

recent apparent conversion of three or four soldiers, and the increasing

interest in their prayer-meetings and Bible class, give us some promise.

The Sabbath School, taught entirely by members of the church, is now in

a state of pleasing prosperity. And the infant school, lately organized

under the direction of an admirably qualified teacher, promises to

gratify the hearts of parents."

_22d_. The geography of the line of country between Sault St. Marie and

the shores of Lake Huron, opposite to the island of Mackinack, is a

perfect terra incognita. It has been passed in the winter only on snow

shoes. The distance in a direct line from N.E. to S.W. is about forty

or forty-five miles. It is about double that distance by the St. Mary's

River and Lake Huron--which is and has been the ordinary route, from

the earliest French days, and for uncounted centuries before. Mr. G.

Johnston, who has just passed it, with Indian guides on snow shoes,

writes: "I reached this place at half-past twelve this day, after

experiencing great fatigue, caused by a heavy fall of snow and the river

rising. I inclose herein a rough sketched map of the region through

which I passed, that is, from Lake Superior to Lake Huron in a direct

southerly line.

"The banks of the Pe-ke-sa-we-see, which we ascended, are elevated and

pretty uniform. From its mouth to the first fork, is a growth of cedar,

on either bank, intermixed with hemlock, pine, birch, and a few

scattered maples. Thence to the third fork, denoted on the map, the

growth is exclusively pine and fir. This river is sluggish and deep, and

is navigable for boats of ten to fifteen tons burden, without any

obstruction to the third forks. Its width is uniform, about sixty to

seventy feet wide.

"From this point to Pine River of Lake Huron, is invariably level,

gently rising to a maple ridge, and susceptible of a road, to be cut

with facility.

"The banks of Pine River are very high. The river we found open in many

places, indicating rapids. It is obstructed in many places with drift

wood. The pine ridge, on either bank, indicates a vigorous growth of the

handsomest pine trees I ever beheld. The water marks are high--say ten

to twelve feet, owing to the spring freshets.

"I reached the mouth of the river on the Sabbath, and encamped, which

gave the Methodist Indian an opportunity of revealing God's Holy Word to

Cacogish's band, consisting of thirty souls. We were very kindly

received, and supplied with an abundance of food--hares, partridges,

trout, pork, corn and flour. We had clean and new mats to sleep on."

_Feb. 4th_. The American Lyceum at New York invite me, by a letter from

their Secretary, to prepare an essay on the subject of educating in

the West.

_6th_. Dr. John Torrey, of N.Y., writes on the eve of his embarkation

for Europe: "I shall take with me all very rare and doubtful plants, for

examination and comparison with the celebrated herbaria of Europe.

"Your boxes and packages of specimens must have been detained on the

way by the closing of the (N. Y.) canal, as I have as yet received

nothing from you. The plan of your proposed narrative I like much, and I

hope the work will be given to the public as early as possible. Dr.

Houghton did not come to New York, but has settled himself (as you

doubtless know) at Detroit."

_10th_. Lyman M. Warren writes from Lake Superior: "Our country at

present is in a very unsettled state, caused by the unhappy wars between

the Sioux and Chippewas. The latter have been defeated on Rum River--six

men and one woman killed. All our Chippewas are looking to you for

protection, as they consider themselves wronged by the Sioux, the latter

being, and constantly hunting within the Chippewa territory. I am afraid

that a very extensive war will commence the ensuing summer, through this

region, and the whole upper country, if some effectual method is not

adopted to stop it."

This war has all the bitterness of a war of races--it is the great

Algonquin family against the wide-spread Dacota stock--the one powerful

in the east, the other equally so in the west. And the measures to be

adopted to restrain it, and to curb the young warriors on both sides,

who pant for fame and scalps, must ever remain, to a great extent,

ineffective and temporary, so long as they are not backed up by strong

lines of military posts. Mr. Calhoun was right in his policy of 1820.

The Rev. Mr. Boutwell writes from the same region: "We rejoice that you

enter so fully into our views and feelings relative to the intellectual

and moral improvement of the Indians, and rest assured we can most

heartily unite with you in bidding God speed, to such as are willing to

go and do them good."

_14th_. John Sunday, a Chippewa evangelist from Upper Canada among the

Chippewas of Lake Superior, writes from the Bay of Keweena, where he is

stationed during the winter:--

"I received your kind letter. I undersand you--you want here the Indians

from this place. I will tell you what to the Indians doing. They

worshiped Idol God. They make God their own. I undersand Mr. D., he told

all Indians not going to hear the word of God. So the Indians he

believed him. He tell the Indians do worship your own way. Your will get

heaven quick is us. So the Indians they do not care to hear the word

of God.

"But some willing to hear preaching. One family they love to come the

meeting. That Indian, by and by, he got ligion. He is happy now in his

heart. After he got ligion that Indian say, Indian ligion not good. I

have been worship Idol god many years. He never make happy. Now I know

Jesus. His ligion is good, because I feel it in my heart. I say white

people ligion very good. That Indian he can say all in Lord's prayer and

ten commandments, and apostle creed by heart. Perhaps you know him. His

name is Shah-wau-ne-noo-tin.

"I never forget your kindness to me. I thing I shall stay here till the

May. I want it to do what the Lord say."

Aside from his teaching among the Chippewas, which was unanswerably

effective, this letter is of the highest consequence to philology, as

its variations from the rules of English syntax and orthography, denote

some of the leading principles of aboriginal construction, as they have

been revealed to me by the study of the Indian language. In truth he

uses the Indian language to a considerable extent, according to the

principles of the Chippewa syntax.

Thus it is perceived from the letter, which is printed verbatim--

1. That the letter _t_ is not uttered when standing between a consonant

and vowel, as in "understand."

2. The want and misuse of the prepositions _of, from_, and _to_.

3. The use of the participial form of the verb for the indicative.

4. The use of pronouns immediately after nouns to which they refer.

5. The interchange of _d_ for _t_, and _g_ for _k_, as in _do_ for _to_,

and "_thing_" for _think_.

6. The suppression of the sound of _r_ altogether, as heard in _re_, and

_re_ligion, &c.

7. Confounding the perfect past with the present tense.

8. The misuse of the indefinite article, which is wanting, in the

Indian.

9. The habitual non-use of the imperative mood.

10. The transitive character of verbs requiring _objective_ inflections,

for the nominative, &c.

11. The absence of simple possessives.

12. The want of the auxiliary verbs _have, are, is_, &c.

John Sunday came to St. Mary's in the autumn of 1832. His prayers and

exhortatory teaching completely non-plussed the Chippewas. They heard

him refute all their arguments in their own language. He had, but a

short time before, been one like themselves--a Manito worshiper, an

idler, a drunkard. He produced a great sensation among them, and

overthrew the loose fabric of their theology and mythology with a strong

hand. I had never before heard the Chippewa language applied to

religion, and listened with great interest to catch his phrases. I was

anxious to hear how he would get along in the use of the dual pronoun

_we_, as applied to inclusive and exclusive persons. He spoke at once of

the affections as they exist between a father and his children, and

addressed the Deity at all times as Nosa, which is the term for my

father. He thus made God the inclusive head of every family, and brushed

away the whole cobweb system of imaginary spirits, of the native

Jossakeed, Medas, and Wabanos.

_March 7th_. "My heart was made glad," writes Mr. Boutwell from Lake

Superior, "that Providence directed you to Detroit at a season so

timely, bringing you into contact with the great and the good--giving

you an opportunity of laying before them facts relative to the condition

of the Indians, which eventuated in so much good. We do indeed rejoice

in the formation of the 'Algic Society,' which is, I trust, the

harbinger of great and extensive blessings to this poor and

dying people."

_8th_. Mr. L. M. Warren reports from La Pointe, at the head of Lake

Superior: "Since my last, Mr. Ayer has arrived from Sandy Lake. He

reports that there have been two war parties sent out against the Sioux,

by the Sandy Lake Band, thirty or forty men each, without accomplishing

anything. Afterwards a third party of sixty men assembled and went out

under the command of Songegomik--a young chief of distinguished

character of the Sandy Lake Band. They discovered a Sioux camp of

nineteen lodges, and succeeded in approaching them before daylight

undiscovered, until they reached, in the form of a circle, within ten

yards. They then opened a tremendous fire, and, as fast as the Sioux

attempted to come from their lodges, they were shot dead, The yelling of

Indians, screaming of women, and crying of children were distressing.

One Sioux escaped unhurt, and notified a neighboring camp. Their

approach to the assistance of their friends was ascertained by a distant

firing of guns. The Chippewas, who by this time had exhausted their

ammunition, began, and effected a retreat, leaving nineteen of their

enemy dead, and forty wounded. This victory was achieved without the

loss of a man on the part of the Chippewas.

"Since that battle was fought, a body of one hundred Sioux have attacked

a fortified camp of the Mille Lac and Snake River band, and killed nine

men and one woman."

_18th_. Mr. Trowbridge writes from Detroit: "We have just heard of the

adjournment of Congress; a new tariff has been passed, together with a

law empowering the President to enforce the collection of duties by

calling in aid the force of the Union. These bills are accompanied by

Mr. Clay's Law of Compromise, providing for the gradual reduction of

duties to a revenue standard. So that the dreaded Carolina question

will, it is supposed, blow over, leaving the Union as it was. The great

men, too, who have been on opposite sides of this question, have shaken

hands at parting, and this is looked upon as another auspicious sign.

"The release of the missionaries in Georgia, having settled that

disagreeable and disgraceful affair to the State, although not done with

that magnanimity which ought to have characterized the proceeding,

leaves no general question at issue, but the Indian question; and from

the prudent measures of government in that regard, it is to be hoped

that that also will be, at length, amicably arranged.

"I mention these facts because I am told that no newspapers will be sent

to the upper country."

_18th_. Lieut. J. Allen, U.S.A., way topographer on the recent

expedition, sends me maps of Leech Lake, Cass Lake, and Itasca Lake, to

be used in my narrative of the journey to the source of the Mississippi

River. Correspondents appear solicitous for a published account of this

expedition, and frequently allude to it, and to the opportunity it gave

for extending our knowledge of the geology and natural history of

the country.

_April 8th_. Dr. J.B. Crawe, of Waterton, N.Y., proposes an interchange

of specimens in several departments of science. Hon. Micah Sterling, of

the same place, commends to my notice Dr. Richard Clark, who is ordered

on this frontier, as a "young man of merit and respectability." My

correspondence with naturalists, in all parts of the Union, and my list

of exchanges, had, indeed, for some years been large and active, and

was by no means diminished since my last two expeditions. But new

sympathies have been awakened, particularly during the last two years,

with philanthropists and Christians, which added greatly to the number

of my correspondents, without taking from its gratifications.

_12th_. Rev. Ansel R. Clark of Hudson, Ohio, an agent of the Education

Society, writes on the importance of that cause, on the state and

prospects of American society, the spread of vital morals in

neighborhoods on the great line of the frontiers, Indian civilization,

&c. In connection with the last topic, he acknowledges the receipt of

the proceedings published by the Algic Society, and expresses his

interest in its objects.

This society, by its standing committee here, received Elder John Sunday

in the autumn, furnished him with lodgings while at the place, and an

outfit for his missions to the Indians at Keweena Bay in Lake Superior.

It also furnished John Cabeach and John Otanchey--all converted

Chippewas from the vicinity of Toronto, U.C., with the means of

practical teaching and traveling among various bands of the Northern

Chippewas. It sent an express in the month of January to La Pointe,

L.S., to communicate with the mission family there, with their papers,

letters, &c. Regular monthly meetings of the St. Mary's committee were

held, and the proceedings denote the collection of much information of

high interest to the cause of the red man.