ASCENT OF THE BIGHORN.
In a week we crossed the valley by short stages and again reached the
loftier mountains. One afternoon we arrived at a stream where we
resolved to pass the night, as we did not know whether we should find
water farther on. Tiger at once hastened off to look for game, and as my
comrades preferred a rest, I set out to try my luck too. I told Antonio
to follow me on Lizzy, that I might not have to carry the game myself,
and had got about a mile from camp when I noticed from a clump of oaks a
herd of deer on a grassy spot ahead of me, which looked like the
ordinary Virginia deer, but were darker-coloured. I took up a deer-call
to draw them toward me, as the spot where I was standing was too barren
for me to be able to stalk them. I posted myself near an oak, and
Antonio sat on Lizzy behind me. The herd advanced toward me on hearing
my call, and were near enough when Antonio cried to me, "Here! here!" I
fancied he was alluding to the approaching deer, and whispered that I
could see them; but he repeated his "here!" and presently added, "Look
to your right!" I turned and saw an enormous snow-white bear forty yards
from me, I tried to fire, but the bear got behind a large oak, and then
behind another, and so was a good distance off ere I could despatch a
bullet after it, which I heard enter a tree. It escaped me, as I had
left Trusty in camp, for his feet were sore from running over sharp
stones lately. The bear heard the call and hurried up, believing that
there was booty for it. It was only a variety of the common black bear.
I would gladly have secured its beautiful skin, as it is a rarity, but
it was out of my reach, and hence I returned to the deer, which after
my shot had disappeared in a distant wood. I went after them, and found
them grazing again: when I emerged from the bushes I shot a large deer,
and found to my surprise that it belonged to a genus I had never seen
before. It was of a very dark, almost black, colour, much larger than a
Virginia deer, and more lightly built, with a longer black scut. It had
cast its antlers, and the new ones had already grown to some size. We
packed the entire animal on Lizzy, and carried it to camp, where Owl
called it a mule-stag or black-tail deer, a variety not uncommon in the
lower regions of the Rocky Mountains.
Our road rapidly ascended from here to the higher mountains, and became
daily steeper and poorer in vegetation; still the path we followed was
very fair, so that we rather rapidly surmounted the heights, on whose
small plateaus our cattle were able to rest again. We left behind us in
a few days many mountain chains with their narrow valleys, when suddenly
the mountains before us became covered with snow, and we were soon in
the wintry landscape again. We suffered terribly from the cold, as our
clothes were not at all suited for such a temperature; and though we
wrapped ourselves in our skins we could not keep warm. I was the best
protected, as I hung my large bearskin over me, and, sitting upon it,
wrapped myself up from head to foot; but for all that I did not get warm
during the ride, and we were very glad when we reached a hollow in the
evening, where we found but little snow and a clump of fir-trees, in
which we camped, and warmed the atmosphere around us with an enormous
fire.
On the following day our road ran principally over snow-covered rocks,
but we came now and then to spots where the sun had melted it, while all
around us rose mountains which even at midsummer do not doff their
winter garment. At last, early one morning, after spending the night at
a very poor fire, we ascended a saddle, whence we looked down into a
plain, whose end in the blue misty distance was bordered by high
mountains, while on the west and east it was begirt by immense ranges,
whose lower chains ran down sharply on both sides in the most remarkable
shapes. The steepest rocks here rose precipitously over the valley, and
the white stone formed long pinnacles, round domes, globes resting on
their pillars, in a word, the strangest shapes, so that our wondering
eyes were tempted to see in them towers, castles, and monuments, while
farther on the mountain masses rose above each other with a reddish-blue
tinge, and touched the clouds with a few isolated peaks. The valley
itself, if it may be called so at this elevation, was well watered, and
from south to north glistened at the base of the western mountains the
surface of a large river, while on the right-hand side signs of water
were also visible. Except the forest of pines on the sides of the
mountains, vegetation seemed to be restricted to the vicinity of this
water, where we noticed a good deal of bush and some rather lofty trees
of the aspen and poplar kind. The greater portion of this extensive
undulating plain only displayed desolate tracts of stone and rocky
knolls. Our Indians call this mountain glen Old Park, and the river
before us the sources of the Rio Colorado, which flows through New
Mexico and California to the distant Pacific, where it falls into the
Gulf of California.
We hastened to the lower regions, and on the third day reached the
river, whose course we followed. A few days after we were surprised by
two men, as we were letting our horses graze at noon. They were beaver
trappers who had been hunting for some years in these mountains, and
paid us a visit in the hope of procuring provisions from us. We showed
them, however, that in this respect we were almost as badly off as
themselves, and that with the best will we could not meet their wishes.
They were both Canadians, of French origin, and had led this life in the
desert for many years. They were men of very slight education, with
repellant manners, and a disagreeable, very coarse appearance, so that
we were not sorry when they took their rifles and went away with a
hurried farewell.
We marched for about a week near this river, till we reached a bend,
when it suddenly trended to the west, and thence pursued its
uninterrupted course through the enormous plains. We crossed here an arm
of the river which came from the east, and followed another up stream to
the north-east. We constantly drew nearer to the mountains on the east,
and ere long the highest peak, clad in eternal snow, rose distinctly
against the blue sky before us. The Indians called this the Bighorn,
which agreed with the statement of the two trappers, of whom we had
inquired. I had been determined from the commencement of the journey to
get as high as I could up this peak, and hence steered toward it.
On the second evening we reached the outer hills, and resolved to take
our cattle as far as was safe regarding food for them, and then continue
our journey afoot. It was the second half of June, the weather splendid,
and the heat at times oppressive by day, while the nights remained
extraordinarily cold. The farther we advanced in the mountains the
scantier food became for our cattle, but on that account they were all
the safer during our absence from an attack of hostile Indians, who
rarely venture so far into the mountains. On the third day, after
crossing a considerable chain of mountains, we reached a small glen,
which, on the east side, was enclosed by precipices, and on the
south-west offered an open view of the mountains of Old Park. It was
covered with good grass, amply supplied with pine-wood, and watered by a
beautiful stream, which forced its way through the ravine by which we
had entered. This spot exactly satisfied our purpose, as it was remote
from regular paths, protected against possible storms, and could be
easily defended. Hence we formed our camp here, conveyed our traps under
overarching rocks, where they were protected against storm and rain, and
hunted for some days in the neighbourhood, in order to provide those who
remained behind with food for some time. I had selected Tiger to
accompany me, and wished only to take one other of my comrades with me,
while the other four remained in camp, I proposed that John, Mac, and
Clifton should draw lots as to who should accompany me; but the two
latter gave way in favour of John, who gratefully accepted.
On the morning of our departure I rolled up my large bearskin and sewed
straps to it, in order to be able to carry it on my back; John and Tiger
did the same with buffalo hides, and ere long all our preparations for a
start were completed. We urged on our comrades the greatest caution, and
then said good-bye in the hope of finding them all right on our return.
We walked bravely up the mountains, from one chain to the other, Tiger
being ahead and Trusty behind. Sometimes we came to paths along which we
went pleasantly; at others, we crept on hands and feet up the steep
granitic strata, and with every hour we had a more extensive view to the
west. On the first day we covered a considerable distance, at least
five-and-twenty miles. We saw an incredible number of mountain sheep,
which, at our appearance, flew up the precipices and gazed down at us in
amazement. Tiger shot a large ram, and we each took a lump of the flesh
with us, while we left the rest to Trusty. Toward evening we came to a
stream, and though it was still early we halted, as we found plenty of
scrub in the vicinity with which to light a fire and roast our meat. It
was an exquisite spot where we camped; beneath our feet we recognised
quite distinctly the white rock towers which border Old Park, and
between which our friends were encamped. We gazed at the immense
mountain valley below us and the windings of the stream through it; we
noticed on its western side the mountain chains that ran up to it, and
saw clearly where the water forced its way through them, taking a
south-western course. Still these mountains formed the border line of
our view, as we were not yet high enough to be able to see over them.
The air was pure and clear, but it soon became very cold, and so soon as
the sun sank behind the mountains we rolled ourselves up in our hides.
We had collected a large stock of wood in order to be able to make a
blaze quickly, but determined to keep it up all night; but we had
forgotten our fatigue, which soon made us fall asleep, and we did not
wake till daybreak.
Dawn aroused us, and animated the extensive landscape around us, whose
glens were covered by a thick damp fog, while a fresh breeze blew round
the heights. We soon finished breakfast, and when the sun shone on the
first peaks of the western mountains we were again ascending the
mountain in the direction of our object. After filling our gourd-bottles
afresh, we went the whole day indefatigably up the steeps, through
desolate rock strata, almost entirely denuded of vegetation, between
which, with the exception of a few clumps of fir, only grasses, reeds,
and torch-weeds sprang up. We very frequently came to water, which
indubitably had its source in the snow melting on the peaks. Toward
evening we reached a plateau, which seemed to separate the higher
regions from the lower, and extended up and down the mountains, with but
slight breaks, as far as we could see. It was at least three miles in
breadth, and offered us a free prospect of the mountain saddle and its
isolated peaks, of which the Bighorn rose far above the others. All
these peaks were covered with a bluish coat of ice, and shone and
glistened so in the sun, that it hurt the eyes to look at them for any
length of time, while the hollows displayed the pure white of the snow.
A number of snowy peaks stood in a large circle around us, among which
two enormous domes rose to the sky, the northernmost being the highest,
and bearing the name of the Bighorn. On its northern side it is a
perfect precipice, while on the south it forms several steep terraces,
while the lower peak bears to some degree a resemblance to a truncated
cone.
We soon recognised the impossibility of reaching these icy heights,
still it appeared to us feasible to scale the back of the mountain
farther to the north, as we noticed there in a deep gap which ran
almost to the summit isolated spots free from snow.
The sun was now approaching the distant mountains in the west, the sky
gradually turned red and at last stretched out over them like a stream
of fire, from which their ice-clad peaks stood out like gleaming flames,
the whole boundless landscape around us was suffused with a warm red
light, and the peaks in the east had changed their brilliant white into
a dark transparent carmine. We stood in silent admiration and saw the
last beams of the glowing sun disappear behind the mountains; ere long
the gloom of nightfall spread over the earth. The eastern sky was
covered with the nocturnal dark purple blue, and the still illumined
snow peaks alone looked down on us, like the last gleam of departing
day. An icy cold wind reminded us that it was time to look for a
resting-place, and without long consideration we went toward the
mountains and reached a group of scattered rocks, between which we found
a species of moss and dry hard grass, which offered us a softer couch
than the bare stones.
We were not quite asleep, when the fearfully plaintive tone of some
animal which was probably bidding farewell to life in the claws of a
grizzly bear rang through the mountains; still this did not prevent us
from falling into the soundest sleep, and trusting our safety to the
faithful dog. The rising sun saw us again _en route_ over very difficult
ground. The ravines which we always followed in order to skirt the
precipices, were at times so full of large blocks that we could not jump
from one to the other without danger, while the rock strata we were
compelled to climb were often too high for us to lift ourselves upon
them. Hence we were obliged to make numerous circuits and could not
advance so rapidly as the distance would have allowed. About noon we
were scaling a height when suddenly a mighty condor spread out its
enormous wings with a loud yell, and rose from a rock with a great
effort, and we saw a mountain sheep hanging in its claws. It swung
itself on to the nearest peak and sat down there, looking over at us
with extended wings and croaking hoarsely. We raised our rifles almost
simultaneously and the eagle sank lifeless on its quarry. Tiger climbed
up and threw both down to us. The sheep was a one year old ewe and
welcome to us as delicate food: while Tiger appropriated the eagle's
feathers and claws, we cut the flesh from the sheep and rubbed salt into
it, after giving it a hearty beating, for thus when our stock of roast
meat was expended, we should be able to fall back on raw meat, as we had
no fire materials.
We continued our journey and soon reached snow, which only remained,
however, on the north side. The air became very cold, which rendered
breathing difficult, and we could not walk fast. Evening surprised us
completely surrounded by snow, and we had to go a long distance ere we
found under southern precipices a spot where the sun had melted it away.
Here we slept and my comrades woke me several times and asked whether I
was not frozen--they could not close an eye, while I was tolerably warm.
They shook me again before daybreak and we continued our journey,
pulling our skins tightly round us. The snow was frozen very hard and
had generally a rough surface, so that we passed easily over it. Our
long sticks, which we frequently sharpened, here served us in good
stead, as at doubtful spots we felt with them whether the snow would
bear us, and no doubt we frequently crossed deep places, into which we
might easily have sunk.
At eleven in the forenoon we at last scaled the highest point after
excessive toil and stood on a wide snow field, which sloped down on the
east to a hollow, behind which other snow mountains rose, and in the
extreme distance the sky formed the background. To the south rose the
white peaks of our saddle, above which extended the two mighty crests of
the Bighorn. The bluish cold colour of these enormous snow domes
contrasted with the warm reddish tint of the mountains and the sunlit
landscape below them, and the icy peaks dazzled our eyes when we looked
up at them. Before us in the west stretched out a scene which I cannot
find words to describe faithfully. To the right and left on the sides
of the snowy mountains which formed a semicircle we saw a sea of hills
and rocks in the most eccentric shape; above them rose to an immense
height the various peaks vividly illumined by the sun, and between them
lay the dark shadows of the mighty glens, which were enclosed by
precipices. Only rarely did the living green of foliage peep out of the
desolate scene, which was slightly enlivened by the more frequent clumps
of pines, and the straying glance gladly rested on the isolated patches
of grass, whose fresh juicy green imparted a warmth to the landscape. At
our feet we gazed at the depths, till our eyes rested on the snow-white
wondrous outline of the precipices which surrounded Old Park on this
side, and we followed the silvery ribbon of water that wound through it.
Old Park lay like a narrow glen before us, lost in the mist and often
crossed by ranges that connected the eastern and western ranges. Far
away in the misty distance, above the mountain chain that borders Old
Park on the west, our eyes rested on the enormous plains which sink from
the Rocky Mountains to the Pacific, and in the extreme distance their
outlines became blended with the sky. They seemed to be crossed by but
few ranges; to the south-west we could distinguish lower chains of
hills, while in the west and north-west a long dark cloud was visible,
which indicated to us the snowy mountains or maritime Alps of
California. So far as we could see, this country appeared to us but
slightly wooded and not very well watered. The course of the Rio
Colorado was alone marked by lower ranges of hills and the hue of the
vegetation.
Our eyes were fixed for a long time on this grand landscape, and we
found it difficult to bid it a last farewell; but the cold warned us to
start, so that night might not surprise us on these inhospitable
heights, on which we did not see a sign of a living creature. It was one
o'clock: we once more bade adieu to the cold, desolate spot, which had
afforded us this enchanting prospect, and then hastened to our last
night's camping-place, where we arrived with frozen beards. We passed a
very cold night here, for the wind had got up, and we felt very happy
when we left the snow behind us on the following day. At noon we rested
and pacified our hunger with the remainder of the raw flesh, which the
condor had provided for us; then we continued our journey, and reached
before evening the foot of a hill, where we found water and sufficient
scrub to prepare a supper of a fat ram which we had killed on the road.
On the next day we joined our comrades again all right, found them in
the best spirits, and our cattle rested and strong. Before the camp they
had erected a number of small scaffolds of sticks, on which meat cut in
strips was being smoked over fires, and a very large and a small
bear-skin hung on the rocks proved the nature of the meat which was
drying. Owl had shot close by an old she-bear and one of her cubs, whose
meat our comrades were now drying for the purpose of taking with them.
This was very welcome, for when a little bear-meat is roasted with dry
venison, the latter becomes dainty and fat. We heartily enjoyed the
tender meat of the young bear, which weighed some sixty pounds, and the
fire which we had so missed for some nights. Unfortunately our salt was
now out, and the same with our tobacco, while we could not expect to
find in these mountains any sumach leaves which we could smoke. In a
word, we were out of everything, except ammunition, for our clothes
literally consisted only of deer-hide, and we merely carried with us the
remains of our linen to use as bandages in the case of a wound. Still we
were in good spirits and healthy as bears, and comforted ourselves with
the thought that in a few months we should obtain supplies at one of the
forts to the east of the Rocky Mountains.
We started on the morning after our return to camp, and went back
through Old Park and up an arm of the Colorado. We followed its windings
across the hills to the point where as a mountain torrent it formed the
most exquisite cascades in falling over the rocks. We halted a long way
up it, and though we were once compelled to quit it through the
impassable nature of its banks, we sought to reach it again soon, as its
crystalline waters contained delicious trout, some weighing twelve
pounds, abundance of game grazed on its banks, and the latter always
afforded us plenty of wood for our camp fires. Moreover, it continually
formed the prettiest bathing-places, in which we refreshed ourselves
morning and evening. At last, however, we were compelled to say good-bye
to this pleasant friend, as it broke up into several small streams, and
we ere long reached the highest point of the hill-range, which we had
scarce crossed, however, ere we found on its northern side an exactly
similar stream, which, instead of flowing southward to join the Pacific,
runs due north and in a great curve round the black mountains on the
North Platte river, and then through Missouri and Mississippi to the
Gulf of Mexico. We greeted this stream with great joy, as it afforded us
the same comforts as the one we had just left, and followed its course
down to the spurs of the mountain chain, which we reached on the second
evening, and found in its valleys a rich vegetation for these regions,
which seemed, however, to be confined to the vicinity of water. The
hill-side, on which we camped, was covered with oaks and pines, through
which our torrent wound down to the valley in front of us, which we
could survey from our elevated post. The hills gradually descended into
it, and in its centre rose a conical lofty rock, whose pinnacles had
exactly the shape of a ruined castle. Our stream wound round this rock,
and glistened in the wood that covered its banks; we also saw a few
buffalo scaling the lower rocks to crop the scanty weeds that grew among
the crevices.
It was getting on for sunset, and still early enough to secure a few
marrowbones from these emigrants: hence Tiger, John, and Clifton hurried
off, Antonio following them on Jack. In a quarter of an hour we saw our
hunters emerge from the wood at the base of the rock, and approach the
buffaloes by stepping behind the stones. Light clouds of smoke rose
above their heads, and the crack of their rifles reached us, while we
saw one of the animals fall in a heap, and the others flying up the
mountain side. Next Antonio with the mule joined our comrades, who had
collected round the animal, and were busy in breaking it up. Koenigstein
and I had meanwhile lit a roaring fire, and Mac and Owl pulled some
trout out of the adjoining stream, so that, when we were all assembled
again in camp, we had the prospect of a glorious supper.
The next morning we finished packing our cattle at an early hour, and
were about leaving our camp, when we saw behind the rock in the valley
the smoke of many fires rising, which indicated a very large Indian
camp. We must employ the precaution of first finding out to what tribe
they belonged, and in which direction they were going: so we rode down
into the glen and concealed ourselves in the thick wood. Tiger and I
then went to the rock and climbed to the top of it, whence we could
survey the valley on the opposite side. Who can describe our surprise on
seeing at our feet a large, animated camp, with all the signs of
civilization! From the numerous gay tents pennants blew out in the fresh
breeze, and between men, horses, and mules were moving in the strangest
confusion. Here and there laggards crept out of the tents and ran off to
the stream to remove the last traces of sleep in its clear waters. Round
the fire other men, in the strangest costumes, were busied in preparing
breakfast, while others were proceeding to and from the stream with
horses and mules. Our amazement was great, and our joy knew no bounds. I
pulled out the last remnant of a pocket handkerchief, fastened it to the
end of my rifle, and then discharged both barrels, while swinging my
white flag high above my head. I saw that the attention of all the
occupants of the camp was directed to us, and many arms were raised
pointing at us. A salvo of at least fifty shots answered my greeting,
and handkerchiefs were waved in the air. We soon descended from our
observatory, and hurried back to our comrades to impart the pleasant
news to them, and we galloped along the stream, round the rock, and
toward the camp, where our little party were received with a thundering
hurrah.
In an instant we were surrounded by a crowd of curious persons, who
assailed us with a thousand questions. I gave Antonio and Koenigstein the
charge of our cattle and traps, and then went with my other friends into
camp, following the eager crowd, who led us to a large marquee in the
centre, from which a long white pennant floated. A man came to meet me
whose features seemed familiar to me at the first glance, and on whose
face I could plainly read that I produced the same impression on him. We
offered each other a hand with an inquiring glance, and after the first
few words of greeting, I recognised an old acquaintance, Lord S----,
whom I had last seen ten years before on the east of the continent. The
pleasure of meeting again was heightened by the most peculiar
circumstances under which it took place.
We sat down at the fire, and I described my journey to this spot, and my
plans for its continuation. A thousand questions interrupted my story,
and when we reached the present moment, we leapt back to the time of our
last meeting, and followed the course of my life up to the commencement
of the present tour. His lordship was already acquainted with some of
the details, but I had much to tell him of since the day when I bade
farewell to civilization. I then heard from him in return the story of
his life, which, though moving along a smoother surface, claimed my
entire attention. During the period he had been back to Europe, and made
a lengthened excursion to Asia; still his passion for this great,
unadulterated nature had brought him back to the mountains of the New
World, to bid them a last farewell, as more serious duties recalled him
home. He had started from Independence, in Missouri, with a large party
of friends, Europeans and Americans, and a number of voyageurs and
half-breeds, engaged for the tour, in a small steamer up the Missouri,
and then proceeded up the Yellowstone as far as the depth of water
allowed. They landed there numerous saddle and pack animals, provisions,
tents, and other traps, and had gone overland through the mountains to
the banks of the Platte, which they had followed to this point round the
Black Mountains. The whole company consisted of about eighty persons:
they had about one hundred animals with them, most of which they
purchased of Indians at the fort where they left the steamer, and had
also taken a dozen of the latter into their service.
This small army offered the most curious sight I ever beheld. All sorts
of dresses, from the lightly-clad savage to the most elegant gentleman
were before us. Many young swells from the Eastern luxurious cities of
this continent, as well as from those of the Old World, educated in
ballrooms, operas, and concert rooms, had followed their fancy in the
selection of their costumes, and appeared in mediaeval garb, with
broad-brimmed plumed hats, jerkins with slit sleeves, leathern breeches,
tall Napoleon boots with enormous spurs, large gauntlets, and had put on
the swords of their forefathers; others had preferred the old Spanish
costume, and donned loose velvet blue or green paletots, while the hat
of an Italian brigand chief, with its red-cock's feather, covered their
long perfumed locks, and a broad white shirt-collar was turned down over
their shoulders. The open sleeves displayed the fine linen of their
shirts; wide trousers were forced into long red morocco leather boots,
on which large wheeled spurs rattled, and a brace of handsomely inlaid
pistols and a long dagger ornamented their belt. Others, again, had read
Cooper, and chosen his heroes as their model; they were dressed in
leather from head to foot, with a broad-brimmed gray hat, a long heavy
hunting-knife at their side, and leaning on an enormous rifle. They
seemed to envy me my shabby clothes, all stiff with blood, while their
dress, which had only just left the tailor's hands, had not a spot on
it. Others, again, had remained faithful to the appearance of the
gentleman of the Broadway, New York, had put on a broad-brimmed hat
instead of the "chimney-pot" of civilization, and went about the camp in
comfortable slippers, smoking fine Havannah cigars. Only one fashion had
gained the victory over the national and fancy costumes here
represented, this was the beard, which had not been troubled by a razor
for a long time.
We soon formed acquaintances among this medley of characters, and led a
life than which a better could not be found at the Palais Royal. The
most delicate wines graced our table, which was covered by artistic
cooks with the daintiest dishes; we smoked the best cigars and drank the
finest mocha. All these things so precious to us were rendered more
agreeable by the cheerful humour that prevailed all through the camp,
and was displayed in every conversation. We spent the time in firing at
a mark, in riding races, in various sports in which agility was
displayed, in card-playing and in dicing, in hunting, which sport,
however, only appeared popular with a portion, while the rest amused
themselves nearer camp. Owing to the great number of animals our new
acquaintances had with them, they had not always found sufficient forage
for them on the mountains, whence they had selected this rich pasturage,
to give them time to rest and to enjoy a little repose themselves.
I remained with my comrades four days in camp, during which time we were
favoured with the most splendid weather, and on the fifth we got ready,
after breakfast, to continue our journey and bid adieu to our friends,
who intended to spend some time here. My friend S---- had supplied us
with all the requisite stores for the pleasant continuation of our tour,
had pressed upon us many luxuries, and given us a perfectly new outfit,
so that we were now better equipped than when we began our journey. Owl
and Tiger were handsomely remembered, at which they felt very happy,
hung themselves and their horses with numerous ornaments, and never let
their looking-glasses out of their hand. S---- and several others would
have been glad to buy Tiger's piebald, and offered him about 200 dollars
for it, but he had no thought of entering into any bargain of the sort,
and he always pretended not to hear when the subject was brought up.
When we at last led our horses out of camp, S---- accompanied us with a
few of his friends, while a final farewell was given us by a salvo of
rifle shots. The gentlemen rode several miles with us, and then returned
to their friends, accompanied by our warmest thanks and heartiest wishes
for their welfare.
We were now reduced again to our own small number, but were in a very
different state from that prior to our meeting with our new friends, as
we had all our wants again supplied, and they now afforded us double
enjoyment after the lengthened privation. Our pipes again burnt
incessantly, at times we even had a cigar as a change, and at the spring
we reached, brandy was often mixed with the water we drank. We halted at
a very early hour, although we could easily have ridden for another
hour, as we were following the river; but the supper that awaited us was
too inviting for us to delay it any longer; for now once again coffee
was drunk, our meat peppered and salted and biscuit eaten with it, and
before going to bed a glass of grog swallowed; which comforts people
cannot always value at home, but which afford great enjoyment after
having been missed for so long a time.
We had again reached a valley which runs between the Rocky Mountains,
and is called New Park. The mountains on both sides drew very closely
together here, and at some spots hardly left space for the river to
pass, which was swollen by numerous torrents, and already had a rather
powerful current. It was still only a torrent, however, which dashed
over large rocks, and hurried along foaming and roaring between the
hills. The mountains on our right hand are called by the Indians the
"Medicine Mountains." Our road here was often very fatiguing, and was
rendered smooth and slippery by several violent showers; so that we were
often obliged to dismount and lead our horses on the descents, for fear
of them falling.
One evening we reached a rather lofty point, where we found a little
grass and a few live oaks; the river rustled below us, scarce a mile
distant, through the rocks, and received there a spring which ran from a
small coppice near us. We had been awakened on the previous night by a
sudden shower, and as our traps had been lying about us uncovered, many
of them were wet through before we could get them under shelter in the
darkness. As the sky was also overcast this evening, we thought it
advisable to put up our small tents. After supper we gathered our traps
together under the tarpaulin, on which we laid large stones, and then
crept into our tents, after wishing each other good-night. The night was
calm and warm, so that when Koenigstein lay down by my side, and fastened
up the opening of our tent which faced to the north, I got up and opened
it again, as it was oppressively hot in our confined space. Our
conversation was but short, our tongues grew heavy; the rustling of the
neighbouring stream was blended with the sound of our broken sentences,
and a deep sleep carried us into the land of dreams.
An icy-damp breeze awoke me suddenly, and when I started out of my sleep
the storm drove the cold rain through the entrance of the tent into my
face, and violently shook its sides. I roused Koenigstein, and was about
to jump up, when a violent blast raised the tent above us, and carried
it off into the darkness, while streams of rain lashed us. All my
companions shared the same fate, and ran about in the darkness seeking
their blankets, hats, and articles of clothing. At the same time we
heard the sound of flying horses, probably ours, which, startled by the
flapping of our tents, had torn themselves loose. We ran to the spot
where we had secured them, and only found Czar and John's mare, but no
sign of the others except the broken lassoes. In the darkness I had
thrown my large bearskin over me, and concealed my weapons under it. So
I remained with Czar, turning my back to the storm, and bade him be
quiet, while I saw the others running back and forwards like shadows.
The storm grew more furious still, and the powerful tornado seemed
desirous of carrying away with it everything that did not bend before
it. I leant my shoulder against a young oak in order to keep on my feet,
but the tree often bent so low as to touch the ground with its foliage.
My comrades had disappeared--at least I could not notice them anywhere,
for the darkness was so dense that I could not see a yard before me. It
was impossible to call to each other, as you could not even hear your
own voice. At the same time the rain still poured down in almost a
horizontal direction, and formed a stream round my feet. There was
lightning in the north, but neither thunder nor lightning had approached
us, until suddenly the eastern mountains were lit up by brilliant
flashes, which displayed their white peaks, and the ground trembled
beneath a tremendous clap of thunder. For more than an hour the
lightning did not cease for longer than a few seconds, and the thunder
roared uninterruptedly between the hills. But at last the storm moved up
the valley and left an impenetrable darkness behind. We gradually came
together again, and would assuredly have laughed at each other had this
been the time for it, for we were wet to the skin, stood in the cold
night breeze upon saturated, bottomless ground, and what was worst of
all, most of our cattle had bolted. It was simply impossible to light a
fire, so we made no attempt to do so, as we could not seek dry materials
in the darkness. Nothing was left us but to wait quietly till day
arrived, which on this occasion seemed to delay terribly.
At length the new light gleamed over the hills, and we could soon
distinguish objects around. We had a melancholy prospect: here lay a wet
buffalo robe, a blanket, or a leathern jacket; there some hats were half
buried in the mud; farther on we saw one of our tents hanging on an oak;
wherever we looked, storm and rain had left traces of their destruction.
A joyous surprise was prepared for us with the return of light: we saw
honest Jack grazing higher up the valley, and Koenigstein's cream-colour
following him. Tiger and Owl soon set out to seek the other horses,
which would be easily found if no accident had happened to them, and
there were no thick woods in this valley to hide them from us. We
fetched up Jack and the cream-colour, and while the Indians followed the
trail of the horses, we sought under the stones dry grass and roots with
which to light a fire, which caused us great difficulty, and only
succeeded after several failures. Then we put up sticks round it in
order to dry our traps, and finally looked up those which had been blown
away. The articles under the tarpaulin had remained quite dry, as the
water ran through the brushwood on which we had laid them, while the
heavy stones kept the cover down. In time we got everything in order
again, and about noon we saw our Indians coming down the valley and
driving our animals before them, which they had found a long way in the
mountains in two parties. During the whole day we were occupied in
repairing damages. The tents had to be mended, the broken lassoes
reknotted, the saddles and bridles cleaned from mud and dirt--in short,
the whole day was spent in getting ready to start again. The next
morning, however, we mounted again, and no one could notice that our
equipment had suffered severely.
Since our leave-taking from Lord S---- and his friends about ten days
had passed, during which we never went far from the Platte River, as the
impassable precipices of the mountains on both sides ran down almost
close to the river. At last the latter opened, the mountains on our left
trended to the west, and before us was spread out an extensive and hilly
tract, which, offered rather decent pasturage for these rough regions. I
intended to follow the river generally to the large prairies on the east
of the Rocky Mountains, in order to visit Fort Lamarie, and then proceed
homewards across the open plains to the south.
It was a warm afternoon when we cut off a large bend which the river
described, and riding over a grassy plain got several miles away from
it. The sun shone hotly on our backs, the horses walked with drooping
heads through the tall grass, and we jolted silently in our saddles,
every now and then putting straight the embroidered blankets on which we
sat, as folds in them become disagreeable in hot weather. I was riding
on the left wing of our cavalcade, and had turned to Trusty, who was
stalking behind Czar with hanging tail, when, on looking across the
prairie, I fancied I saw about half a mile off two human forms conceal
themselves in the grass. Without checking my horse, I called Tiger up,
and imparted to him what I fancied I had seen. He advised me not to look
round, as he was riding on my right hand, and, without exciting
suspicion, while talking to me, could keep in sight the entire plain on
our left. We had been riding on for a long time when Tiger suddenly
pulled round his piebald and galloped across the prairie, in the
direction where I believed I had seen the men. We stopped to look after
him and watched him ride through the grass, but presently turn his horse
toward us. He told me they were probably Blackfoot Indians, who were
following S----'s trail, in order to steal some horses from his party.
Close to the spot where he had seen one of them was a reed-covered pool,
and hence it was useless to seek him, as he would have concealed himself
in it. However, he was of opinion that we must be on our guard here, so
that they might not get hold of any of our horses, for these Indians had
eyes in the darkness, and could walk more softly than sleep.
During the following night, we again encamped on the river, and fastened
our horses near camp, where Trusty mounted guard over them. He appeared
extremely restless, got up several times, went growling round our camp,
and barked frequently; but our rest was not otherwise disturbed. Early
the next morning, as we were folding up our furs, Tiger returned to the
fire saturated with dew. He had gone over the neighbourhood and said
there was a number of Blackfeet close by; the dog had prevented them
from approaching our camp at night; but they could not be an entire
tribe, or else they would have ventured an attack by day. He had found
several tracks going round our camp at some distance. Tiger told us that
the Blackfeet live farther north, and only come so low down for purposes
of plunder; but here they had to be on their guard against the Utahs,
Sioux, Pawnees, Sacs, and Foxes, who occupied this country and lived at
war with them. The Blackfeet are pursued by nearly all the other Indian
tribes when they venture south, and in former years, when they prowled
about the present state of Missouri, they were hunted by the first
settlers there like wild beasts. The power of these Indians is very
considerable, and their number is probably the largest of all the
numerous tribes of natives. They live between the sources of the
Missouri and Yellow-stone River, tolerate no other tribe there, and are
warlike and cruel to their conquered foes. The Crows, their neighbours,
are much fewer in number, but for all that oppose them in the field and
wage the most sanguinary wars with them. Neither nation, however, dares
to cross the Yellow-stone, without being pursued by the Indians living
on the opposite side; they only do so when they have a prospect of
committing a robbery without any great risk, or capturing a few scalps
from their enemies.
We followed the river to the spot where the Medicine-bow River falls
into it, and Tiger and Owl made an excursion along its banks, and
brought in the news that some forty Blackfeet had crossed the river,
probably expecting that we would follow the Platte farther up to the
Black Mountains, to watch for us and attack us in the narrow passes.
They told us these enemies would not leave us till we had passed that
region, and we must constantly keep a watchful eye on them. We camped on
this side of the Medicine-bow River, and talked over our further tour
over the camp fire, and Owl was of opinion that we should do better by
following the course of this river and effecting our retreat through
Lamarie plains, between the Medicine and Black Mountains, as on this
route we should be less troubled by Indians than on the great Eastern
Prairies, and, with the exception of buffaloes and wild horses, might
expect to find much more game there. We heard Tiger, who was of the same
opinion, and soon agreed to follow this road.
We fished in the river till it grew quite dark, and had just put supper
on the fire, when Tiger and Owl took their rifles, and, after telling us
to keep a bright look-out for the Blackfeet, went up the river, and soon
disappeared. I ordered Koenigstein to mount guard at the end of the small
wood in which we had camped, at the spot where it joined the Platte, and
promised to relieve him in an hour. We thus changed sentries until about
eleven o'clock, when I relieved John. It was not very dark, although the
moon was not shining, and sitting on the ground I could not only see
across the Platte, but distinguish objects in the grass for some
distance. Trusty lay by my side, with his head resting on his crossed
paws; suddenly, however, he raised his nose, and I heard his low growl,
which I stopped by a wave of my hand. He kept his nose turned
obstinately up stream, in which direction I also kept my eyes fixed on
the grass. I felt with the hand I had laid on Trusty that his attention
was growing greater, for he began trembling all over, which he did when
he was forced to master his growing excitement.
Still I could not distinguish anything that appeared to me strange. The
grass in front of me was not tall, and there were but few patches of
scrub. All at once I fancied that a bush, about fifty yards from me, had
moved, but it might be imagination, as I had been gazing at it so
intently. A profound silence brooded over the landscape, which was only
interrupted by the continuous monotonous rustling of the river. In our
camp no voice was audible, and the bright fire, which had lit up the
surrounding trees and bushes, had burned down, and only indicated its
position by a glimmering light. When I took my post half an hour
previously Owl and Tiger had not returned, and since then I had not
heard them arrive. The air was very damp and cold, and the grass around
me felt quite wet. I now fancied I could be certain that the bush had
moved: I rose a little and looked at it more sharply; it moved again,
and a dark object, in the shape of a large stone, slowly rose out of the
grass. Now I could entertain no doubt it was a living creature: but what
could it be? That was a matter of indifference to me, so long as it was
not either Tiger or Owl, and they would not approach our camp so
cautiously and suspiciously. It could be none but a Blackfoot. I rose on
one knee, cautiously lifted my rifle, and aimed as well as I could for
the darkness, at the object whose indistinct outline now covered nearly
the whole bush.
Bang! the flame flashed from the rifle, and a hollow plump into the
river followed a few seconds later, before the smoke had risen on the
damp atmosphere. I looked at the dark, shining surface of the water, and
noticed that large circles surrounded a black spot, and were moving with
it toward the middle of the stream. I fired my second barrel at it: I
clearly saw through the gloom that the motion of the water became very
violent at the moment, but then it was all over, and the next minute the
current flowed on as usual, and nothing on its surface revealed what was
passing in its depths. I had scarce fired the second shot when my
comrades dashed up under arms. I quickly told them what had happened,
and we remained under arms awaiting the return of our Indians, of whom
we had as yet heard nothing. About an hour later they returned, and
Tiger at once asked why we had been firing: then he told us what had
happened to him, and that my shots had robbed them of several Blackfeet
scalps. They had crossed the river a little higher up, at a point where
it was shallow, and lay down on its banks, as they expected that the
savages would return during the night to try and get hold of our horses.
Shortly before I fired, Tiger had heard and seen the branches of a
neighbouring bush parted, but after that all became quiet again. Tiger
fancied that their number was considerable; but we had nothing more to
fear from them on this night, and could go to sleep in peace. However,
we posted sentries till daybreak, when I and Tiger examined the spot at
which I had fired. We found that my bullet had cut away a spray in the
centre of the bush, and noticed the track of an Indian, which was
distinctly marked on the bank, and Tiger recognised it as that of a
Blackfoot. Owl swam across the river and examined the opposite shore to
see whether he had landed there, but could not discover any sign, and,
pointing to the river, supposed he was sleeping under that.
We slept quietly till eight o'clock, then breakfasted, and packed our
animals, so as to continue our journey on the new plan. Tiger said that
the Blackfeet would be cheated out of a day, for they were awaiting us
farther down the Platte, and if they had not their horses with them they
could not catch us up before morning: if their number was large,
however, as he believed, they had their horses with them, and would be
camping in the thickets on the opposite side of Medicine-bow River. It
was nearly noon when we struck camp and marched up the river. The grass
was not very high, and our path slightly covered with loose stones, so
that we could keep our horses at an amble, and when the sun sank behind
the distant hills on our right, we had covered a distance of at least
twenty-five miles. After riding past a stony knoll, round which the
river described a short curve, we reached a stream flowing between deep
banks, which fell into the Platte, and was densely overgrown with
alders. The spot pleased us to spend the night at, and we were engaged
in unpacking our cattle, when suddenly a fearful yell rang behind us,
which came toward us accompanied by a dense cloud of dust. The
Blackfeet! all shouted, and seized their weapons. Tiger, however,
shouted to us to follow him, as he led his piebald through the alders
into the stream, and the next minute all the cattle were left in charge
of Antonio, who fastened them to the bushes.
We had scarce returned to the bank when a body of forty Indians dashed
up to us like a tornado; lying behind their horses' necks, and covering
their left side with their large shields, they allowed a very small
portion of their bodies to be seen. We permitted them to come within
fifty yards before we fired. The band hesitated, and we saw through the
dust several horses lying on the ground, and many of the horsemen
engaged in taking others up behind them, while the greater number
galloped back to the hill, and uttered a frightful yell. They had not
galloped far, however, when one of them, mounted on a powerful black
horse, darted to their head, and casting himself in their way, swung his
long lance before them. His horse reared in front of the flying horde,
and the thundering voice of the leader distinctly reached us through the
yelling. At the next instant the band turned back, with the warrior on
the black horse in front of them. We had reloaded, and I shouted to my
comrades to expend but one bullet, and reserve the other for shorter
range. The savages had galloped up to within about the same distance as
before, when I shouted, Fire! and aimed myself at the leader of the
band. The black horse reared and fell over with its rider, while another
horse fell dead by its side, whose rider ran with the speed of an arrow
after his comrades, who were now flying in the utmost confusion. The
rider of the black horse, however, had scarce fallen with it ere he
crept from under it, and at the same instant we saw Tiger leap out of
the willow bushes on the river bank, and, swinging his tomahawk, catch
up the Blackfoot warrior with a few leaps. The latter fell back a pace,
and threw his iron axe at Tiger with such force that, missing its mark,
it flew far out into the river. Tiger now buried his axe with lightning
speed in the chest of his recoiling foe, and both fell to the ground
like two intertwined snakes. It was the work of a few minutes, and the
yell of the flying Indians was still ringing in our ears when we dashed
up to the combatants in order to help Tiger. It was no longer necessary,
however, for he rose from off his lifeless foe, and setting his knee on
the other's bent-back neck, he passed his knife round the head and tore
off his scalp. During this time Owl had scalped the other Blackfoot, and
our Indians danced frantically round the dead men, waving the reeking
scalps and knives, while the blood poured down Tiger's back from a
gaping wound in his left shoulder. At length they concluded their dance
of victory, and then our Indians plundered their slain foes and the dead
horses. The dress of these Blackfeet is made of leather, with remarkable
taste, adorned with paintings and long fringes, porcupine quills,
shells, scalp-locks, and coloured pebbles; the leather is smoked of a
very dark hue, and gives the savages a gloomy and terrifying aspect.
Their weapons are lances, bows and arrows, tomahawks, and knives; only a
few have firearms.
I examined Tiger's wound, which had only cut the flesh obliquely, and
was produced by his enemy's knife; while the latter had a bullet through
his left thigh, a gaping wound in his chest, and a stab in his heart.
Tiger had run down to the willows on the river without our noticing him
after the first attack of the Blackfeet, and had thence fired at the
chief, whom he afterwards killed with his knife. "Now," he said, "we can
sleep; the Blackfeet have lost their head, and will go home and tell how
the Delawares have some more of their scalps in their tents; their
squaws will not even take their dead with them, and not let them sleep
with their fathers."
We camped close to the stream, but posted sentries all through the
night, as I feared lest we might have to oppose a nocturnal surprise.
The night, however, passed undisturbed; but we heard incessantly a
fearful yelling of wolves, which prowled round our camp, but owing to
the huge fire did not dare approach the corpses, which lay not far from
us in the grass. The next morning we quitted the spot, for which
movement the numerous wolves were watching, and they attacked the dead
Indians and horses almost before we had crossed the stream.
[Illustration]