being removed, there appeared a wide vacancy, with a broken chasm
in the middle, down to the water’s edge, where the new arch was
being constructed. There are three engravings of this edifice taken
immediately subsequent to the destruction, the rarest of which is
an extremely slight and rude etching, on a small folio half-sheet,
entitled ‘_The Melancholy Prospect of London Bridge South-East, April
12th, 1758. J. Jump Del. et Sculp. Published according to Act. To be
had at the Acorn in the Strand._’ In this most barbarous prospect the
buildings are represented in flames; and I have seen it marked so high
as 4_s._ I cannot imagine why Gough, in his ‘_British Topography_,’
volume i., page 735, calls the next of these engravings ‘a miserable
view,’ since it is certainly as good as the generality of the prints
of the period, and is very considerably better than the last. It
consists of a large half-sheet, entitled ‘_An Exact View of London
Bridge since the Conflagration of the Temporary Bridge_,’ which is a
copper-plate of 8 inches by 13-1/4; and beneath it, in letter-press,
is ‘_A Chronological and Historical Account from the first building
a Bridge across the River Thames from London to Southwark, till the
late Conflagration of the Temporary Bridge, the 11th of April, 1758.
Sold by William Herbert, under the Piazzas on the Remains of London
Bridge. Price One Shilling, Plain. Colour’d, Eighteen Pence._’ The only
additional information which we derive from this narrative, is, that
‘as the wind providentially blew the whole time at East,--tho’ all the
day before it had blown strong from the Southward,--it did no damage to
any of the houses at either end.’ But by far the best representation of
the effects of this fire, is a half-sheet copper-plate, entitled, in
French and English, ‘_A View of London Bridge, with the Ruins of y^e
Temporary Bridge, Drawn the day after the Dreadfull Fire, April the
11th, 1758, by A. Walker. Published according to Act of Parliament,
June 28, 1758. London: Printed for John Ryall, at Hogarth’s Head in
Fleet Street. A. Walker delin. et sculp._’ All these prospects were
taken on the West side of the Bridge, and represent the building
horizontally across the picture: Herbert’s extends from Fishmongers’
Hall to the Southwark Gate; but Anthony Walker’s takes in the whole
Bridge, and part of the buildings on the Surrey shore.
“Yet, if this fire were sudden, and its destruction extensive, the
exertions of the City Corporation were not less prompt and effectual in
repairing of the damage. The Common Council, like Bunyan’s Captains in
_Mansoul_, being always true lovers of London, like so many Samsons,
shook themselves and came together to consult upon and contrive a
remedy. The Court of Common Council met by one o’clock on the day
after the fire, and was attended by Mr. Dance, Mr. Taylor, and Mr.
Phillips, the builder of the Bridge, whom the Lord Mayor had previously
ordered to survey it; and their report was, that with a proper number
of workmen, who should be allowed to labour on days, they would
engage to make the old Bridge passable for carriages by the 1st of
May. A new Temporary Bridge was ordered to be immediately erected,
and upwards of 500 workmen were constantly employed upon it, by whose
means, as it is stated in the ‘_Gentleman’s Magazine_’ for 1758, page
193, the Bridge was re-opened for foot-passengers, on Wednesday, the
19th of April; and the whole of the new wooden edifice was ready for
carriages in less than a month after the fire. During the erection
of this building, there seemed to be discovered an additional proof
that the last conflagration was not accidental; for Daniel Capel, the
Inspector of the Bridge, having been informed that Mary Dennis, before
mentioned, and John Scott, one of the Bridge Watchmen, had seen lights
about the new works at an unseasonable hour in the night of the 23rd
of August, brought them to give their evidence before Mr. Alderman
Francis Cokayne. The Inspector was then ordered to search if there were
any appearance of fire, and make his report to the Lord Mayor; upon
which he stated, that having carefully surveyed the Bridge with proper
attendants, they found the appearance of an attempt in three places,
where the new wood work was scorched quite black; and one of the
Watchmen also produced the remains of a link found in the unfinished
works of the Bridge. To prevent another conflagration, therefore, says
Entick, in his ‘_Continuation of Maitland’s History_,’ page 21, it
was ordered that two men, well armed, should be placed every night,
from sun-set to sun-rise, in a gallery erected from end to end of the
Temporary Bridge, just beneath the centre of the works, with lamps
lighted, and a bell, to alarm the neighbourhood in case of an attack.
This watch was continued under the direction of Mr. Capel, until the
whole of the Temporary Bridge was taken down. Before this, however, as
we are informed by ‘_Owen’s Weekly Chronicle, or Universal Journal_,’
for August 26th to September 2nd, 1758, page 173, five watermen, armed
with blunderbusses and cutlasses, had watched for a fortnight, from ten
at night until five in the morning, in a boat under the great Arch.
The opening of the second wooden erection for carriages did not take
place until Wednesday, the 18th of October, 1758, as we learn from
‘_Owen’s Weekly Chronicle_,’ October 14th to 21st, No. 29, page 230:
on page 206 of a former number of which, the watch is particularly
mentioned; and we are also told that there was a convenient pathway
for foot-passengers, railed in and elevated above the carriage-road.
Pages 183 and 198 of the same authority, shew that the edifice was
strewed over with gravel above the planks; that on each side there
were uprights for covering it; and that a month intervened between the
gravelling and the opening of the Bridge. In consequence, too, of the
recent attempt to destroy the New Bridge, this paper likewise informs
us, page 238, that orders were issued by the Lord Mayor, that no
coaches nor foot-passengers should carry any lighted torches over the
Temporary Bridge.
“It was not, however, until the middle of the year 1759, that the new
Arch of London Bridge began to assume its intended form; though we
can trace its progress only by slight occasional notices contained
in the periodicals of the day. Thus we learn from a paragraph in the
‘_London Chronicle_,’ of Saturday, July the 28th, 1759, page 88, that
‘the grand Arch at London Bridge is now completed. It is finished
in the Gothick taste, and the ballustrades upon it are fixing. The
foot-paths will be rather wider than those at Westminster; and it is
proposed to fix posts along them with chains from one post to the
other, to secure foot-passengers from any damage which might otherwise
happen from cattle.’ The strength and complication of the timber used
for forming this Arch, are particularly pointed out in an engraving
and letter signed E. M., in ‘_The London Magazine_’ for that year,
volume xxviii., page 672; where it is stated, that about 17,000 feet of
wood were contained within the arch, which, at some little distance,
appeared to be entirely solid, the vacant spaces being exceedingly
small in proportion to the beams themselves. Its actual contents were
13,872 cubic feet of timber, forming the centre; and 3570 feet more
occupied in booms, guard-piles, struts, and trusses required for the
preservation of the old and new works, and for keeping off the River
craft, tide-water, and ice. This alteration was carried into effect
by Sir Robert Taylor, Architect to the Bank of England, and Mr. Dance,
Senior; and the Carpenter employed for the construction of this
CENTRING OF THE GREAT ARCH OF LONDON BRIDGE,
[Illustration]
received 2_s._ per foot for the use of his timber, including labour,
and took it back again at his own expense. It measured 70 feet span,
by 48 feet wide, and the rise was 23 feet; it was formed of 16 ribs
or frames, and was supported on three Sterlings; namely, the two side
ones of about 6 feet each, and that from which the Chapel pier had been
removed. The author of the letter which I have referred to, censuring
the extraordinary quantity of wood used in the centre, observes that it
employed nearly 10,500 feet more than were used at Westminster Bridge;
notwithstanding the Arch at London Bridge is 4-3/4 feet narrower and
12 feet lower, though the Bridge itself is 4-3/4 feet wider. The
author’s own plan, which is also annexed to the letter, more resembles
that adopted by the late Mr. Rennie, in his alteration of Rochester
Bridge, in the year 1821. It consisted of five radii, supporting as
many timbers placed pentagonally; occupied only 7000 feet of timber,
and would have amounted to £1000 less than the plan actually adopted.
“Many months had not elapsed, however, when it was discovered, that,
by the removal of the large centre pier, the excavations around
and underneath its Sterlings were so considerable, as to place the
adjoining piers, and even the new arch itself, in very imminent danger.
The presentiments of many, and the apprehensions of almost all, were
consequently so great, that but few persons would pass either over
or under it; the Surveyors themselves were not prepared with any
adequate remedy; and Mr. John Smeaton, the celebrated Engineer, was
instantly summoned express from Yorkshire to relieve the difficulty.
Having immediately proceeded to survey the Bridge, and to sound about
the dangerous Sterlings, he advised the Corporation to buy back again
the stones of the City Gates, and throw them into the water, to guard
the Sterlings; preserve the bottom from farther corrosion; raise the
floor under the Arch; and restore the head of the current required for
the Water-works, to its original power. These City Gates, you will
remember, had been previously sold and taken down, in 1760 and 61, as
appears by the ‘_Gentleman’s Magazine_’ for those years; volume xxx.,
pages 390, 440, 591, and volume xxxi., page 187: where we are informed,
that on Wednesday, July 30th, were sold to Mr. Blagden, a Carpenter in
Coleman Street, before the Commissioners of City Lands, the edifice of
Aldgate for £177: 10_s._; Cripplegate for £91; and Ludgate for £148.
Two months were allowed for the removal of each, the latter being
begun on Monday, August 4th, and Aldgate on Monday, September 1st.
Bishopsgate was sold on Wednesday, December 10th; and on Wednesday,
April 22, 1761, Moorgate was also sold for £166, and Aldersgate for
£91. It was probably the materials of the first of these, which lay
in Moorfields, when Mr. Smeaton advised their being thrown into the
Thames: and with so much promptitude was that advice followed, that
the stones were bought the same day; horses, carts, and barges were
instantly procured, and the work commenced immediately, although it
was Sunday morning. These particulars are related in the Life of this
Engineer, attached to his ‘_Reports made on various Occasions_,’ volume
i, London, 1812, quarto, page xix.
“Whilst we are speaking of this alteration of London Bridge, it seems
to be a proper place to say something of the massive features of our
ancient edifice, and the oldest contrivances used for the support of
Bridges in general. First, then, the Piers are said to be raised, so
far as their nature can at present be known, upon rough piles of oak
and elm, shod with iron, and driven very close, but apparently not
fastened. Upon the heads of these are frequently found pieces of plank,
chiefly oak, 4 to 6 inches in thickness; and the insides of the Piers
are filled up with rubble laid in mortar. This kind of building is
supposed to have been anciently used when the bed of the river could
not be laid dry; and the stilts or piles were then surrounded by a row
of other piles and planks, like a wall, called a Sterling or Jettee,
the vacant spaces of which were filled with loose stones, &c. to the
top. The inconveniences attending such a method are, however, so great,
that it is now entirely disused: as, on account of the very loose
composition of the Piers, they must be made both large and broad, to
prevent their entire destruction upon drawing the centre of the Arch.
This great breadth, also, very materially contracts the water-way, and
incommodes navigation; whilst the Sterling itself is in considerable
danger of bursting.”
“But, Mr. Postern,” said I, as the Antiquary arrived at this part of
his narrative, “although Maitland tells us, in his ‘_History_,’ volume
i., page 46, and volume ii., page 1349, that the use of Coffer-dams, or
_Caissons_, for building of the Piers of Bridges, was first introduced
into the Thames at the erection of Westminster Bridge, yet it has been
supposed that even this of London was constructed somewhat after the
same plan; and that those Sterlings are but the upper parts of the
machines themselves, left in the water to guard the Piers; though it
is certain, that in most of the Reports, illustrative of the great
repair of London Bridge, the Sterlings are mentioned as additions
to the original structure for the support of the Piers. I have been
obligingly furnished, however, with an interesting drawing, and
extract from the MS. Journal of Mr. William Knight, of Mr. Rennie’s
office, by which we are enabled to understand the construction of
these parts of the Bridge in a much clearer and more perfect manner.
Mr. Knight observes, that having received several different statements
as to the way in which the Piers of the old London Bridge had been
erected, he determined upon convincing himself by an actual survey.
This he effected on August 14th, 1821, when an excavation was made for
ascertaining whether the original structure would support new Arches
of a larger span; and he then found it to be built in the following
manner. ‘The foundation of the Piers on the North side,--between the
Great Lock and what is called the Long Entry Lock,--and in the Sterling
round it, appeared to be about 3 feet above low-water mark. The bottom
of the masonry originally laid of the pier, is about 2 feet 3 inches
above low-water mark; and the first course is laid upon a sill of oak,
16 inches wide, by 9 in thickness, and perfectly sound. Immediately
beneath this is a mass of Kentish rubble, mixed with flint, chalk,
&c., thrown in irregularly, but not mixed with any cement. The masonry
above the sill seems well bonded together, with good mortar joints,
but there are _no piles under the oak sill_. The external parts of the
pier seem to have been new-fronted at some period,--probably at the
time when the centre Arch was formed in 1759,--as the base of this new
fronting projects about 1 foot before the original Pier. There are _no
piles under the original part of the Pier_; but to the _new part there
are some small ones driven into the rubble_,--which can be of little
service,--with some planks laid upon their edges. The new masonry is
well bonded into the old work.’ Mr. Knight concludes, by observing
that, in all the accounts which he has hitherto met with, the old Piers
of this Bridge are described to _stand upon piles_; but that, as he
found this to be erroneous in the present instance, he considers it to
be a fair conclusion that all the other Piers were constructed upon the
same principle. His drawing represents a SECTION OF THE NORTH PIER OF
THE GREAT ARCH OF LONDON BRIDGE,
[Illustration]
shewing the original manner of constructing it, and the Sterling,
or ancient Coffer-dam, standing around it; which, it thus appears
unquestionably evident that, not having the art to pump dry, was filled
up with loose stones. The Arch on the right hand is denominated the
Long Entry Lock, and that on the left is a part of the Great Arch in
the centre. I should remark also, that Mr. Knight has examined several
other parts of this edifice with no less care and industry, in order
to ascertain the plans adopted at the famous alteration of London
Bridge, of which we are now speaking; of all of which observations he
has made interesting sketches and memoranda. He states that he has
felt with his measuring rods the timber, &c., placed in the river to
strengthen the piers of the Great Arch, and that his sounding leads
have been broken by catching in it. In April, 1826, the opening of the
roadway of London Bridge for throwing of two more Arches into one, to
increase the water-way during the building of the New Bridge, also made
a curious discovery of many of the more ancient parts of the original
building. The crowns of the old Arches, observes Mr. Knight, were
about 8 feet 6 inches from the present surface of the ground, which
appeared to have been raised at different periods; and five several
strata were evidently to be traced over the centre of the original
Bridge, which was 20 feet in width. Immediately over the crowns of
the Arches was a layer of fine gravel, about 20 inches in depth,
perhaps the ancient roadway, as its upper surface had the appearance
of being trodden down and dirty, when contrasted with that beneath
it. The next stratum consisted of mixed chalk and gravel; the third of
made ground of various materials; the fourth, a thick layer of burnt
wood, ruins, and black earth; and the last another bed of different
substances, over which was the granite paving. The filling-in between
the Arches was composed of chalk and mortar, of so hard a nature that
it was taken out with great difficulty. With respect to the building
itself, he observes, that the stone of which the Arches were formed
consists of two courses: that of the soffits or flying ribs, being
Merstham Fire-stone, and the course above very similar to the stone
of Caen, or Normandy. In the additions, or casings, on each side of
the original structure, Portland stone has been used, as well for the
facing, as for the Arches; whilst the backing and filling-in, between
the spandrils of the Arches, was composed of chalk and mortar; which
latter was evidently of a very bad quality and carelessly applied.
Indeed, the ashler facing had been so little attended to in the
bonding of the work together, that it is surprising, with the great
weight behind, the careless manner of throwing in the backing, and the
slight nature of the facing itself, that the whole work has not been
thrown outwards some time since. Having thus, Mr. Barnaby, added these
curious observations to your narrative, I must once more entreat you to
proceed.”
“After making you my acknowledgments,” recommenced the Antiquary, “for
the very curious illustration you have now furnished; and before
quitting the Great Arch of London Bridge, let me observe, that it
contains the Trinity Standard of High Water, which is placed there for
the benefit of persons erecting buildings on the banks of the Thames,
and originally inscribed upon a metal plate, affixed under the Great
Arch upon the North East side, as it may be seen beneath the centre
Arch of Blackfriars Bridge. It is at present engraven in the centre of
each Pier of the Great Arch, in black Roman letters, about 7-1/2 feet
above the springing line of the Arch, or 8-1/2 feet over the sterling;
and consists of the inscription,--
+--------------+
| |
| TRINITY. |
| |
| H. W. |
| |
| 1800. |
| |
| ------ |
| |
| Λ [Greek: L] |
| |
+--------------+
the character beneath being the average point of the ordinary rise of
a Spring Tide at High Water, which, above Bridge, is 14-1/2 feet or 15
feet, being 5 feet 3 inches above the Neap Tides. At high Spring Tides,
however, it has risen 16 feet and upwards; and in that remarkable one
combined with a land-flood on December 28th, 1821, it rose 2 feet, 10
inches, and five parts, above the mark below Bridge. From the official
tidal observations of the Trinity Company, it has been ascertained,
that, from Blackwall to London Bridge, the High Water ascends to the
same level; and that from the upper side of London Bridge to that of
Westminster the River is likewise generally level, excepting under the
influence of winds or land-floods. During that of 1821, to which I have
just referred, the banks of the River, and the marshes and gardens
above Westminster, were overflowed and damaged to a very considerable
extent; which has been attributed to the obstruction offered by the
present London Bridge to the passage of the water towards the sea, as
we learn from the ‘_Report of Ralph Walker, delivered into the House
of Commons, 11th of April, 1823_,’ octavo, page 9; where he states,
that the tides below this edifice during the flood, rose only to the
ordinary height, whilst at Low water the fall was increased by several
feet. This celebrated fall is, of course, most evident at Low water,
when it is about 4 feet 6 inches, or 6 feet in the Winter season; and
the most hazardous time for passing through any of the Bridge Locks, is
probably half an hour previous to, or, for barges, the last two hours
before, Low water below Bridge. The safest time of the tide is at High
water, or slack Low water: but boats may pass with safety for 2-1/2
hours after flood, and the last half hour of the drain of the tide at
ebb, above Bridge; the tide having then flowed nearly 4 feet below.
Deeply laden barges also take the drain through at Low water. The
Great Arch is doubtless one of the safest to pass under, and is always
used by craft and barges; but before the erection of the New Bridge
works, most of the other Locks were employed at the flood tide, when
the fall is extremely trifling. When the tide is on the ebb, the Arches
which are chiefly used for boats are, the Draw-Lock,--the 4th from the
Great Arch,--on the South; and St. Mary’s Lock,--adjoining the Great
Arch,--on the North, which is always taken on the first part of the
ebb. The Long-Narrow, once a favourite Lock, is now nearly abandoned;
but the Draw-Lock is perhaps considered the safest, and is the most
generally used since the erection of the New Bridge Coffer-dams. The
approach, however, is dangerous, and requires a skilful waterman, who
is obliged to pull his boat into the draft or eddy of the dam before he
can make the Lock. Though the works of the New Bridge have at present
closed several of the Arches of the ancient edifice, yet the 4th and
5th Locks from the Southwark end have been thrown into one, with a
strong wooden vaulting, parapet, and roadway above, to increase the
water-way beneath. Since the commencement of these works, the fall of
the river has also become less dangerous for barges, from the returning
tide sooner meeting with resistance; and instead of a direct fall of
6 feet in 50, it is now only about 6-1/2 feet in 250. The draft of
the tide, however, round the Coffer-dams, makes it very difficult
for lightermen to enter the Locks fairly; and some of the outer rows
of piles are driven inwards from their barges being carried against
them. In 1820 and 1822, the average fall at High water was only from
8 to 13 inches; and in 1823, after the removal of the London Bridge
Water-works, it decreased to between 3 and 4.
“Mr. Barnaby! Mr. Barnaby!” exclaimed I, fretted by this long
digression in the Antiquary’s narrative, “I protest you really put me
out of all patience: there’s no keeping you to one subject; for the
last of your annals referred to that most wearisome alteration and
repair of London Bridge which began in 1757, and now you are bewildered
in a discourse on the navigation and tides of the Thames! Truly, it’s
intolerable!”