drawing,’ is nothing less than a most fair and interesting view of the
Western side, as it appeared about the time of Elizabeth, or James I.,
delicately drawn with a pen, slightly shaded, coloured, and gilded,
but all faded by time, and nearly worn out by having been folded in
two, from the continual friction of the surfaces. It measures about
24-1/4 inches, by 4-3/8 inches; and is now contained in the portfolio
marked ‘_London and Westminster_, 1. 246, 247. C.’ As the Bridge is
represented with the Northern end in a perfectly entire state, it must
have been drawn anterior to the great conflagration which destroyed it
in 1632-33; though it was probably to commemorate that event, that some
rude and barbarous hand has disfigured it with those numerous streaks
of red, which Bagford and Gough supposed to represent flames. From
the minute and careful manner in which it is drawn, it may certainly
be esteemed as peculiarly authentic; and, therefore, I proceed to
notice to you, that it, very probably, contains a representation of
the four Mills, which you have already mentioned as being set up near
this place. At the Southern end, below the Traitors’ Gate, is a kind of
long shed, formed of shingles, or thin boards, erected on three of the
sterlings, and covering, as the Citizens proposed, four water wheels,
which edifice is, doubtless, intended to represent the ANCIENT CORN
MILLS AT LONDON BRIDGE.
[Illustration]
“Now, Mr. Barnaby, as this building stands out so far from the Bridge
itself as to leave a considerable space between them, though enclosed
on all sides, a sort of water-square open at the top, it appears to me
an evident proof that it represents those very Mills. In the roof of
the building are three sets of windows; and an open stage, or floor,
appears a short distance below it. At the North end, also, of this most
interesting prospect, against the first sterling, is a high square
building, like a tower, having a low wooden gallery in front of it;
and a single water-wheel turning beneath it; which are, most probably,
intended for the WATERWORKS AND TOWER AT LONDON BRIDGE.
[Illustration]
“With regard to the other principal features of the Pepysian view, I
shall remark to you only, that the Western side of the Nonesuch House
is delineated in the richest and most delicate manner, all its carvings
and columns being minutely drawn and touched with gold; whilst a whole
grove of heads and quarters raised upon staves stands upon the top of
the Traitors’ Gate beyond it; and so much then for a brief description
of this ancient prospect of London Bridge.”
“I am much your debtor, most worthy Master Geoffrey,” said Mr. Postern,
as I concluded, “I, truly, am greatly your debtor, for these curious
notices of a view, at once so rare, so interesting, and so antique:
and, touching the Water-house, or Tower, to which you have alluded,
although we have not any certain information of the time when it was
erected, yet from the circumstance of its appearing with a name in John
Norden’s very scarce view of London Bridge, which I shall presently
mention, it may be supposed to have been set up in the time of
Elizabeth, and was, perhaps, as old as the Water-works themselves. In
the first edition of Stow’s ‘_Survey_,’ by Strype, London, 1720, volume
i., book ii., page 174, there is a passage relating to the Water-house,
which does not appear either in the original edition of 1598, nor in
the last ancient one of 1633; and therefore may be very justly supposed
to refer to the wooden building erected _after_ the Great Fire; when it
will most properly be noticed.
“I must here again refer to the Account-rolls of the Bridge Keepers,
for the memoranda of some past years’ revenues and expenditure, to
inform you that in the year 1562 the rental was £1071. 6_s._ The
salaries, and allowance for horsekeeping, to William Draper and Robert
Essington, the Wardens, were the same as those paid in 1556; but the
liveries were increased to £3. 6_s._ 8_d._ each. The whole amount for
the year being £64. In 1565,--says the same authority,--the allowance
to each Bridge-Master for fees, livery, &c. was £33.: and the rental
of the estates amounted to £1168. 8_s._ 5-1/2_d._: while in 1590,
the Bridge rental was £1369. 7_s._ 2_d._; and Robert Aske and James
Conneld, the Wardens, paid the two Bridge-Masters for their Year’s fee,
£50. each, with £3. each for their horses and liveries; making the
whole charge £106.
“In the year 1591, a most singular instance of drought occurred in
the vicinity of our history, as you may read in Stow’s ‘_Annals_,’
page 765, where he states, that on ‘Wednesday, the sixth of September,
the wind West-and-by-South, as it had beene for the space of two days
before, very boysterous, the riuer of Thamis was so voyd of water, by
forcing out the fresh and keeping backe the sault, that men in diuers
places might goe 200 paces ouer, and then fling a stone to the land. A
Collier, on a mare, rode from the North side to the South, and backe
againe, on either side of London Bridge, but not without danger of
drowning both wayes.’
“The year 1594 was particularly remarkable for a dearth of corn,
occasioned, as Stow tells us, it was supposed,--see his ‘_Annals_,’
page 769,--by the English Merchants having exported it too largely.
The summer had been extremely wet; for not only much rain fell in
May; but, in the following two months, it commonly rained every day,
or night, until the 25th of July, the Feast of St. James, and two
days after, without intermission. Notwithstanding these floods a fair
harvest followed in August, but the price of grain rose to 5_s._ for a
bushel of Rye, whilst Wheat was sold from 6_s._ to 8_s._ the bushel,
and increased even still higher. In consequence of this, Sir John
Spencer, the Lord Mayor, procured it to be ordered, that the several
Companies of the City should presently provide themselves with certain
proportions of wheat and rye, to be laid up in the public granaries
at the Bridge House. In December, however, the greatest part of their
stores was yet wanting, and the Lord Mayor, therefore, issued a new
order on the 13th of that month, directing that the whole quantity
should be laid up in the Bridge-House before the 8th of the ensuing
January; since corn was then being imported into England. At this
period, Elizabeth was, most probably, preparing those twenty-six
vessels, which she despatched, the following year, to Spanish America,
under Sir John Hawkins; since, in his capacity of Treasurer of the
Navy, he demanded of the Lord Mayor the Bridge-House, granaries,
ovens, &c. for the use of the Queen’s Navy, and baking biscuits for
the fleet. Cecil, Lord Burleigh, who was then Lord Treasurer, being a
great patron and protector of the City; to him the Lord Mayor addressed
a remonstrance against Sir John Hawkins, stating all the foregoing
circumstances, that the City would be deprived of its provision, if he
lent the granaries; that the Companies would neglect to lay up the corn
they were enjoined to do, and that grain must either be bought from
the Badgers, or Meal-sellers, or else the Merchants be discouraged from
importing any more. He added also, that the ovens in the Bridge-House
were required for baking bread for the City poor, at reduced rates;
and he concluded by representing that the Queen had not only granaries
about Tower Hill, Whitehall, and Westminster, but that Winchester House
was also in her possession, in which large quantities of corn might be
deposited. This honest and spirited conduct of the Lord Mayor produced,
on the part of Admiral Hawkins, the reply ‘that he should hear more to
his further dislike,’ as well as some letters from the Privy Council
in censure of his proceedings. Upon which he again addressed the Lord
Treasurer, entreated his favour and protection, and petitioned that the
granaries might still be employed for the use of the City, lest the
dearth of corn should yet increase, or the poor of London should be
distressed for provision: adding that, as the City was then unprovided,
his Lordship would hold him excused from resigning the Bridge House,
and submitting himself to his good pleasure. With these answers,
Hawkins was probably forced to be content, as we meet with no farther
correspondence upon this subject.
“With these particulars, then, terminate our annals of London Bridge
for the sixteenth century; but before we pass on to the opening of the
following one, let me mention to you the views of this edifice which we
possess, illustrative of the period we have now arrived at, and give
you a general idea of its appearance, whilst it yet remained in its
greatest state of splendour.
“One of the most ancient representations of London Bridge is contained
in that painting of the procession of King Edward VI. from the Tower,
to his Coronation at Westminster, February the 19th, 1547; the original
of which was executed to decorate a part of the Great Dining Room of
Cowdray Hall, Sussex, the seat of Viscount Montague, where it was
destroyed by fire in 1793. An engraving of this interesting picture
was, however, published by the Society of Antiquaries in May, 1797;
and the Bridge is there represented at the left hand of the engraving,
containing four or five buildings erected on the side, in the centre
of which rises a spire, perhaps meant for the Chapel of St. Thomas;
and at the Southern end appears the gate. This, however, is but an
oblique view, and by no means to be depended upon for its accuracy;
though, at the same time, the plate contains numerous other interesting
features of antiquity, which render it invaluable to all the admirers
of London in the olden times. The next most ancient prints of this
edifice are those maps and plans of London which include the Bridge;
such as that contained in the ‘_Civitates Orbis Terrarum_,’ by George
Braun and Francis Hohenberg, volume i., Cologne, 1523, folio, signature
A:--the famous map of Radulphus Aggas, published about 1588; and some
others of less note, of which you have a tolerably accurate account
in Richard Gough’s ‘_British Topography_,’ volume i., pages 743-760.
These plans, however, although exceedingly interesting, are, from their
great extent, less pleasing than a view, as it regards particulars;
for the buildings are sometimes so rudely and minutely sketched, as to
convey no perfect idea to the minds of such as desire to contemplate
old London in all its original quaintness and antique beauty.
“But, perhaps, the rarest and most curious prospect of London Bridge
in the reign of Elizabeth, is that engraven by John Norden, of which
an impression rests in Mrs. Sutherland’s sumptuously-illustrated copy
of Lord Clarendon’s History of the Rebellion, in 31 volumes imperial
folio, comprising 5800 prints and original drawings. Norden, you will
recollect, was Surveyor to Henry, Prince of Wales, and died about
1626; and his view of London Bridge was, most probably, published two
years before, for, though it is without date, it bears the arms of,
and is dedicated to, Sir John Gore, Lord Mayor in 1624. The dedication
states, however, that Norden had ‘described it in the time of Queene
Elizabeth, but that the plate had bene neare these 20 yeares imbezeled
and detained by a person till of late vnknowne.’ The view of the
Bridge is taken from the Eastern side, and the edifice is represented
horizontally, from South to North; though it is singularly enough
stated to be from East to West: it measures 20-1/2 inches by 10-5/8,
and is engraved in a border surmounted by the arms and supporters of
James I., having its name written upon a scroll. At each end of the
print is a naked boy flying; the one bearing a shield with the City
Arms, and the other those of the person to whom it is dedicated. With
respect to the Bridge itself, it is filled with buildings, in which the
Traitors’ Gate with the heads, the Nonesuch House, and the Chapel of
St. Thomas, are particularly visible; whilst above the houses, at the
North end, is seen the top of ‘_The Water Worke_.’ From the windows
of several of the houses, buckets are being let down by long ropes
into the water, which is seen rushing through the arches with great
impetuosity, although there is no fall. On the right appears a boat
overturned, its oars floating about, one man drowning, and two others
being saved by another boat; whilst two or three more vessels, &c. are
seen in different parts of the picture. Along the lower part of the
water are engraven the words ‘_Tame Isis Flvvius vulgo Temms_;’ and
below the print are the Dedication, and ‘_The description of London
Bridge_,’ in letter-press in three columns, surrounded by a border
of metal flowers, and signed John Norden. As this account is, of
course, very short, and is chiefly taken from Stow, it gives us but
little information; though, perhaps, the concluding paragraphs may
not be unworthy of your attention.--‘It were superfluous to relate
vnto such as well know, and duely do consider the forme and beauty
of this famous Bridge: but to intimate it to the apprehension of
strangers, I haue deliniated the same to the eye, how it is adorned
with sumptuous buildings, and statelie and beautifull houses on either
side, inhabited by wealthy Citizens, and furnished with all manner of
trades, comparable in it selfe to a little Citie, whose buildings are
so artificially contriued, and so firmely combined, as it seemeth more
than an ordinary streete, for it is as one continuall vaute or roofe,
except certaine voyde places, reserued from buildings, for the retire
of passengers from the danger of carres, carts, and droues of cattell,
vsually passing that way. This description representeth vnto the eye
the true forme of this famous pyle, as neare as arte--in this kinde
of deliniation,--can be demonstrated: the number and forme of euery
arch, and all the buildings; their true height, breadth, and distance
of euery particular, from the East towards the West: as for the other
side it like wise appeareth in my prospectiue description of the Citie;
the vaults, sellers, and places in the bowels as it were of the same
Bridge,--which are many and admirable,--excepted, which arte cannot
discouer to the outward view. The situation, arte, and workmanship,
in and about the Bridge, are affirmed by obseruing trauailers in all
respects to exceede all the Bridges of the world. And, therefore, I
thought it fit to represent it to the view of the world, that it may
know, that if one part of this Citie be so famous, how much more the
whole: which, for state and Christian gouernment, may well challenge
place before any Citie in Christendome. And therefore I present
vnto you this simple modell of one of the wonders of the world.’ So
concludes the descriptive eulogy of Master Norden. And now, Sir, having
mentioned to you the great rarity of this print of London Bridge, and
that if another impression of it were to appear, it would probably
produce the respectable price of ten, or fifteen guineas; I must add
that there has been an excellent fac-simile of it published by Mr.
William Scott, of Great May’s Buildings, St. Martin’s Lane, for the
more moderate sum of 10_s._ 6_d._, which no genuine lover of London, or
London Bridge, should hesitate to procure.
“The last view of this edifice which I shall at present notice to
you, is one copied by Thomas Wood, Engraved by J. Pye, and dedicated
to Brass Crosby, Esq., Lord Mayor, the Aldermen, and Common Council
of the City of London; and it represents the ‘_South View of the said
City and part of Southwarke, as it appeared about the year 1599_.’ I
am half inclined to believe, however, that this prospect is made up
from Hollar’s View, published in 1657; as it is certainly taken from
the same point. The Bridge rises obliquely on the right hand: at the
South end of it appears the Southwark Gate, and beyond it is placed
the rich tower which I have already described to you; whilst a series
of buildings, forming two distinct groups, with spaces between them,
finish the picture, which has the old Church of St. Magnus for its
Northern boundary. Even at this period, probably, some of the Arches
of London Bridge had received those names by which they were so long
afterwards known, though they were first inserted in Stow’s ‘_Survey_,’
by Richard Bloome, one of the last of his Continuators before Strype;
but his account of these locks I shall speak of in the next century,
and I will now only observe that such were the features of LONDON
BRIDGE IN THE YEAR 1599.
[Illustration]
“‘Thanks be praised!’ Master Barnaby,” said I, as my indefatigable
historian arrived at this period, “‘thanks be praised!’ as the
Countryman says in the Play, ‘I thought we would never ha’ got hither,
for we’ve had a power of crosses upo’ the road.’ If you do not make
the better speed through the next two centuries, mine honest friend,
you will scarcely allow me time to conclude your narrative by a brief
account of the New Bridge, and the grand ceremonial of its foundation:
here’s your health, however, and if contributing to one’s repose, be
a praiseworthy action, why, truly, I’m much your debtor, good Mr.
Postern.”
“Rest you merry, Sir,” replied he of the sack tankard; “I see that
you’re one of the humourists of Old London; and, methinks, you ought
to be somewhat grateful to me for furnishing you with occasion to be
witty; but, to speak more seriously, I pray you to recollect that I
have conducted you through a period of more than six hundred years,
and that too in a history of which the materials are to be sought
for, and extracted, from a vast multitude of very opposite sources.
And even when we have found them, you know, my good Mr. Barbican,
that they resemble those grains of gold which the wandering Bohemians
recover from the sand; of little or no value till collected into a
mass, and even then surprising by their insignificance. Surely, he is
to be pitied, who becomes the historian of a subject equally ancient,
interesting, hopeless, and unknown.”
“A very good reason,” answered I, “for not becoming one at all, Master
Barnaby; Odzooks! do men write your thick folios, only because they
know nothing of the matter? But you have no such excuse, for you quote
me a dozen authors to tell of one event; and then there’s such ‘fending
and proving’ about a handful of years, that where subjects are lacking,
’fore George! you seem to me to create them.”
“Well, Sir, well,” resumed the mild old man, “your wit becomes you; but
as we may never meet again, I would fain pour into your bosom all the
little knowledge which I possess upon this point; and so we will pass
on to the Chronicles of London Bridge in the seventeenth century.
“The inhuman cruelties which Queen Mary, Bishop Bonner, and others of
their faith, practised upon the Protestants, may reasonably be supposed
to have so embittered their minds, as to have excited in them no
slight feelings of revenge, when, in their turn, they came into power.
Indeed, it is difficult to imagine any other cause for the severities
which they practised, or for the laws which were enacted to authorise
them. The principal of these Statutes, you may remember, were five:
one in the 27th of Elizabeth, 1585, chapter ii., entitled ‘_An Act
against Jesuits, Seminary Priests, and other such like disobedient
persons_;’ and a second passed in her 35th year, 1593, chapter ii.,
and called ‘_An Act for restraining Popish Recusants to some certain
place of abode_.’ Under King James I., were introduced three others
strengthening and confirming the former, the first of which was made
in the 1st year of his reign, 1604, chapter iv., being ‘_An Act for
the due execution of the Statutes against Jesuits, Seminary Priests,
Recusants, &c._’: and in his third year, 1606, were passed two others,
see chapters iv. and v., namely, ‘_An Act for the better discovering
and repressing of Popish Recusants_;’ and ‘_An Act to prevent and avoid
dangers which grow by Popish Recusants_.’ History, Master Barbican,
blushes to record what cruelties were perpetrated under the sanction
of those laws; and I should have omitted all notice of them, but that
they are so interwoven with several anecdotes of London Bridge. My
authority is a work, entitled ‘_The Catholic Book of Martyrs, or a true
British Martyrology commencing with the Reformation_;’ by the Right
Rev. Richard Challoner, Bishop of Debora; of which the new edition of
1825 is a singularly curious book. He states from Stow, in volume ii.,
page 9, that in 1578, February 3rd, John Nelson, a Priest, was executed
at Tyburn, for denying the Queen’s supremacy, and that his head was
erected on London Bridge; whilst, on page 74, is a similar relation
of another Priest named James Fenn; but I proceed to notice a much
more remarkable instance. In the year 1605, Father Henry Garnet, the
Principal of the English Jesuits, was taken up and imprisoned in the
Tower, for being a party concerned in the famous Gunpowder Plot: after
many examinations, he acknowledged that Father Greenway, a Jesuit, had
communicated it to him under the seal of confession from Catesby, the
Chief of the conspirators. Both the Priests were struck with horror at
the design, and vainly endeavoured to prevent its execution. Greenway
fled beyond the seas, but Father Garnet was taken, condemned, and
executed in St. Paul’s Church Yard, on the 3rd of May, the Anniversary
of the Invention, or Finding of the Holy Cross by the Empress Helena,
the Mother of Constantine. ‘His head,’ says Bishop Challoner, in
his ‘_Catholic Book of Martyrs_,’ volume iii., page ii., ‘was fixed
on London Bridge, and it was much remarked, that his countenance,
which was always venerable, retained, for above twenty days, the same
lively colour which it had during life, which drew all London to the
spectacle, and was interpreted as a testimony of his innocence; as was
also an image of him wonderfully formed on an ear of straw, on which a
drop of his blood had fallen.’ Dr. Challoner gives his authorities for
this narrative at its commencement.