First appearance of Wallachia--The Iron Door--Reform of the Hungarian
representation--Corporations--Finances--Education--Justice--Wallachian
Gladova--Servian Gladova--Trajan’s bridge--Navigable stations on the
Danube--Wonders of steam--Speech of Prince Milosch--Neighbourhood of
Gladova--Wallachian hut--Matrimonial speculation--Tea-drinking--Music--
Charms of procrastination--Departure from Gladova--Bends in the
Danube--Approach to Vidin--Magnate’s costume--Visit to Hussein
Pacha--The pacha’s deputy--An interpreter--Explanations--Pleasures of
disguise.
♦ APPEARANCE OF WALLACHIA ♦
Count Szechenyi had already apprized me of his intention to go down
the Danube as far as Rutschuk. As we were preparing, on the following
morning (October 3), to set out from Orsova, he added, that his object
was to land at Giurgeva, a Wallachian town, nearly opposite Rutschuk,
and thence to proceed to Bucharest, in order to obtain the sanction of
the hospodar, for the improvements which were meditated in the bed and
on the banks of the river within his principality. I took my seat with
the Count in his phaeton, and we were followed by another carriage,
occupied by his secretary, Mr. Tasner. Our road by the side of the river
was scarcely practicable for such vehicles, as frequently we had to
be drawn over narrow abrupt rocks, which, sloping towards the Danube,
afforded the agreeable prospect of a cold bath, as well as of fractured
limbs, in case of a break down. In an hour after quitting Orsova we
passed the frontier of Wallachia, where, if we were to Judge from first
appearances, misery seemed to have taken up her favourite abode. The
cabins of the poor people were constructed of hurdles, not defended,
even by the addition of mud on the inside, from wind and rain. Crowds of
children appeared at the doors, literally naked, in company with pigs
and goats, dogs, cocks and hens, and ducks, as if all were of the same
order of existence. Some of these wretched habitations were altogether
underground.
♦ THE IRON DOOR ♦
We soon arrived at the commencement of the celebrated “Iron Door”
of the Danube. It is a series of rapids so called from the extreme
difficulty of passing them, and also probably from the almost
impenetrable nature and ferruginous colour of the rocks, which form the
entire bed of the river to the distance of nearly three miles. These
rocks, though so long washed by the torrent are still as rough as when
the river first found or forced its way amongst them. They are in large
masses, tumbled about in every sort of shape and position, and now that
they were completely exposed to view, in consequence of the depression
of the river, they looked terrific; the gaping jaws, as it were, of some
infernal monster. When the Danube is at its ordinary height, replenished
by its usual tributaries, the roar of its waters in hurrying through the
“Iron Door,” is borne on the winds for many miles around, like the sound
of continued peals of thunder.
The present state of the river was taken advantage of by the engineers,
for the purpose of making an accurate survey of the channel. This is
another of the passages in which it will be necessary either to excavate
a canal in the bosom of the rocks, or to erect one upon them which
might be fed from the springs of the neighbouring heights.
♦ HUNGARIAN REPRESENTATION ♦
I had noticed on the Servian bank, opposite Vedran’s Cave, a tablet cut
in the face of the rock, with an inscription upon it which seemed to
be in good preservation, though we were not near enough to read it. It
records, as the Count informed me, the completion of a line of road on
that side of the river, cut through the solid rock by order of Trajan,
of which a considerable portion still remains visible as far as the Iron
Door.
Though reminded occasionally by jolts which threatened the entire
dissolution of our carriage, that we were traversing no Roman road,
I had every reason to hope that a few years would bring about great
changes in Hungary, in that respect. As to the other reforms in
contemplation, I believe there is no objection to the nomination by the
sovereign of the high sheriffs for the fifty counties, of which Hungary,
including Croatia, is composed, the more especially as in each of the
counties two under-sheriffs are selected by the nobles. But the state
of the representation stands greatly in need of amendment. At present
each of the counties sends to the diet two deputies, who are chosen by
the nobles, comprehending under that title all persons who are descended
from noble families. There are besides, eighteen chapters of cathedrals
which return two deputies for each, and fifty free towns, each of which
returns also its two members. But the representatives of the chapters
and the free towns have no vote in the lower chamber of the diet, they
have only the privilege of delivering their opinions upon any measure
under discussion. It is obvious that this difference between the powers
of the several classes of deputies must be speedily done away.
Again, if a magnate, who is called to the diet by the king’s letter,
cannot attend, he sends an individual as his proxy; but this substitute
does not sit in his principal’s place in the upper house; he sits in the
lower one, where, however, he has no vote. This is a useless privilege
which ought to be abolished.
♦ CORPORATIONS ♦
In the free towns the deputies are chosen by the burghers, who form
close corporations. Now, as was formerly the case in England, some
free towns which have greatly declined in population continue to elect
deputies, while other towns which have much augmented their population
are altogether without the elective franchise. Schedules A and B are
much wanted in those parts of Hungary; the right of election requires
to be more extensively diffused, and thus the work of reform would be
conducted without any great difficulty to a successful conclusion,
inasmuch as a strong spirit of freedom exists throughout the country,
which is sustained by the custom long established, of holding public
meetings, and also assembling at public dinners, at which speeches are
made in every respect after our English fashion. Indeed, as I have
before observed, political topics are as openly discussed in Hungary as
they are with us; and though it can scarcely be said that a press exists
as yet in that country, nevertheless it possesses a certain current of
public opinion, against which the emperor has no means of contending,
however disagreeable it may be.
♦ FINANCES ♦
It is understood that the finances of Hungary are in a most disordered
condition; so much so, that before long a crisis must arrive, dangerous
to the union of the two crowns, unless measures for averting that peril
be adopted in time. It will be impossible to mature any such measures,
still less to carry them into execution without the concurrence of
the diet, which will then assuredly take advantage of its power to
incorporate a complete political reform with that of the exchequer.
♦ EDUCATION--JUSTICE ♦
The imposition of a toll upon all persons, without exception, who will
pass over the new bridge about to be constructed between Pesth and Buda,
is but the commencement of the abolition of those unjust privileges
which exempt the nobility in general from contributing to the taxes.
The clergy have at present a monopoly of all the means of education. It
is intended to put an end to that system, to establish public schools
upon the Lancasterian plan, in every parish of Hungary, which shall be
supplied with masters educated especially for their duties at Pesth. The
administration of justice requires also a complete revision, and the
wealth of the church is supposed very considerably to exceed the real
wants of a Christian establishment. The magnates are disposed to assume
a decided part in favour of all these reforms, but it cannot be doubted
that they will take care not to make the people too strong by widening
beyond what they deem to be strictly inevitable, the democratic basis of
the constitution.
♦ SERVIAN GLADOVA ♦
We arrived about noon at Gladova, where we found the Argo steamer
waiting for us. But as the carriages and general articles of
merchandise which had been forwarded from Moldava to Orsova had not yet
made their appearance at the Wallachian station, I was obliged once
more to draw somewhat liberally on my stock of patience. Here were five
days already spent in making a journey, for which two ought to have
been amply sufficient. An excellent dinner, however, which had been
previously ordered by the Count, and a bottle of Champagne from a case
provided by him for our voyage, consoled us for our disappointment.
The mornings began to be rather sharp. Nevertheless we breakfasted on
deck (Oct. 4) on dry toast and coffee; after which, taking with us a
quarantine inspector, we crossed the river in a small boat to Servian
Gladova, which is a fortified town of some pretensions. We walked
through the environs; our inspector not permitting us to enter the
interior of the town, unless we were disposed on our return to take
up our abode in the lazaretto. The country around seemed remarkably
fertile, but it was almost wholly uncultivated. Such of the inhabitants
as we saw were pictures of indolence--they were mostly dressed in the
Turkish costume, though many were apparelled in the European fashion.
We saw only one woman, in the course of our peregrinations, and she was
closely veiled.
♦ TRAJAN’S BRIDGE ♦
On our return to the steamer, some discussion arose as to the exact
site of Trajan’s bridge across the Danube, which, though recorded in
history, had hitherto puzzled all the commentators; as, in fact, no
trace of that once magnificent edifice had been discovered for many
ages. The Count suggested that, as the river was now so low, there
was a chance of our settling the question by a personal examination.
Accordingly, we proceeded on foot along the Wallachian shore, until we
arrived at the ruins of an ancient tower, built on an eminence, which
had been evidently raised by artificial means. The tower was of Roman
construction, and, as we conjectured that it might have been intended as
a guard-station for the defence of the bridge, we ascended the eminence
with no slight feelings of curiosity.
♦ TRAJAN’S BRIDGE ♦
Looking down the river, which is here of no very great width, and
divided by a sandbank, which, however, cannot be perceptible in the
ordinary state of the Danube, we distinctly observed the water curling
over a series of impediments extending in a right line from bank to
bank. At both extremities of this line we perceived on the land the
remains of square pillars; and, on approaching the ruin on our side,
we found it constructed of blocks of stone, faced towards the river
with Roman tiles, evidently forming the buttress of the first arch
of the bridge. In the river itself we counted the remains of six or
seven pillars, which had manifestly served to sustain as many arches,
connecting the bank on which we stood with the opposite one. No doubt
therefore could remain that here was the site of Trajan’s celebrated
bridge, a marvellous work for the times in which he lived, considering
that it had been constructed on one of the most remote confines of the
Roman empire. I calculated that these interesting ruins were about three
English miles from Gladova. I brought away a fragment of a tile, as a
rude memorial of our discovery.
♦ STATIONS ON THE DANUBE ♦
The Count, who was seldom idle, sat down, upon our return to our cabin,
and wrote for me, in English, a memorandum of the distances of the
navigable stations on the Danube, which I here copy.
German Miles.
Part. | Total.
From Eschingen to Regensburg 50 | 50
---- Regensburg to Vienna 50 | 100
---- Vienna to Pesth 40 | 140
---- Pesth to Peterwardein 60 | 200
---- Peterwardein to Orsova 40 | 240
---- Orsova to Galacz 100 | 340
---- Galacz to the Black Sea 25 | 365
|
If we add to these items the distance from |
the mouth of the Danube to Constantinople, |
by the Black Sea, which is seventy German 70 |
miles then the total distance from Eschingen to |
Constantinople will be four hundred and |
thirty-five German miles or about one thousand |
nine hundred and fifty-eight miles of English |
admeasurement. | 435
As the voyage by steam, however, can only be made from Presburg to
Constantinople, the distance is reduced to about fourteen hundred and
forty English miles; which, when the steam-boat establishment and works
on the Danube are completed, might be easily traversed in eight days and
nights. At present, the journey overland from Vienna to Constantinople
cannot be made in the ordinary mode of travelling within less than
three weeks. The new route by the Danube will exhibit, therefore, one
of the most important triumphs over time which the steam-engine has yet
accomplished.
♦ WONDERS OF STEAM ♦
The advantages destined to arise out of this great enterprise to
Hungary, to Servia, Wallachia, and Bulgaria, and, indeed, to all
Turkey, are incalculable. Those countries, which have hitherto seemed
scarcely to belong to Europe, will be rapidly brought within the
pale of civilization; their natural riches, which are inexhaustible,
will be multiplied; their productions will be vastly improved; their
institutions and laws will be assimilated to those of the most advanced
nations; and new combinations, not only of physical but also of moral
strength, will be created, which may give birth to important changes
in the distribution of political power on the continent. Indeed, while
I am writing this page from my notes, I learn from an authentic source
that the people have demanded and obtained a representative constitution
from Prince Milosch in Servia, and that the first assembly of the
states has been already held at Karagozovatz, where, on the 28th of
February last, he delivered a speech, of which I have procured from
the same quarter an accurate translation. As this speech exhibits an
interesting and characteristic picture of the patriarchal condition of
that principality, and as no copy of it has yet been published, I need
not apologize for placing it before my readers.
♦ SPEECH OF PRINCE MILOSCH ♦
“_Speech pronounced by Prince Milosch, before the General Assembly held
on the 16th (28th n. s.) of February, 1835, at Karagozovatz in Servia._”
“A year has gone by since we met in greater numbers, and on a more
important occasion. It was our intention when we separated to assemble
in greater numbers on St. George’s Day, but owing to want of forage
we were under the necessity of holding only a small reunion some
time after that epoch. During the summer, as well as the autumn, it
became impossible to convoke a national assembly; first, because in
consequence of the extraordinary drought, neither water nor hay could be
procured; and secondly, because we had not been able to terminate the
various reports to be laid before the general assembly. Even up to the
present moment it has not been possible to complete the census of our
population, and ascertain the amount of the income drawn from tithes and
other sources of revenue. It has not been in my power either, within so
short a space of time, to establish many of the institutions of which
I yet perceive the urgent necessity. It is but a year since Servia
has become a state. In laying down the foundation of a new one, it is
necessary to go slowly to work, to take care not to utter even a single
syllable which to-morrow, perhaps, we shall have to retract; much to
the detriment of the public interest, and greatly to our own dishonour.
Centuries have gone by before the different states in the world could
attain the position in which we at present see them. Yet every day their
institutions require some alteration. Such must also be Servia’s fate;
Servia cannot in one year become a state so perfectly administered
as to be faultless. Many are the peculiarities which yet distinguish
the Servian nation. These must be sacrificed to the civilization and
enlightenment characterizing the nations of Europe, before we can aspire
to be ranked among them. First of all, we do not possess yet amongst us
the sufficient number of men capable of directing the administration of
the country, as is the case in Europe. This has been the great drawback
to the foundation of those institutions which it is my wish to establish
in our country.”
“On so solemn an occasion as the present, surrounded by the dearest
members of my family, our metropolitan and bishops, the members of
the Servian legislative body, those of the provincial tribunals, the
captains from the different districts, the elders of the principal
commonalities, and the high clergy, I appear before you, beloved
brethren, to recal to your memory the speech I delivered last year on
St. Tryphon’s day, before the general assembly, and which I caused to be
printed and distributed among the people. In that speech I acquainted
you with the desire I had of forming a regular administration; secondly,
of assessing taxation in a manner both equitable and simple, and at the
same time convenient for the treasury; thirdly, of paying the debts of
our former bishops, which were a great burden on the provinces lately
incorporated with Servia. I have uninterruptedly during a year devoted
my attention, both in the council and when consulting the legislature
of our country, to ascertain the administrative system best adapted
and most advantageous to our country, and have come to the firm
determination, first, to promulgate a statute for Servia, accurately
defining the rights and duties of the Prince of Servia,--the rights
and duties of Servian magistrates,--as well as those of every Servian.
This statute shall be read in your presence. You will then see that
the general national nights are the rights which every Servian is to
enjoy,--are such as humanity demands; that the person of every Servian
is free;--that every Servian is master of his property. Obedience to
this statute we must swear,--not only we who are now here assembled,
but also every one of our brethren who happens to be absent. We must
swear one to the other;--the prince to the magistrates and people, the
magistrates to the prince and people, the people to the prince and
magistrates,--that we consider this statute sacred and inviolable as we
hold the gospel to be inviolable and sacred,--that we shall not depart
an inch from it, or alter a single syllable of it, without previously
obtaining the approval and consent of the whole nation.”
“Secondly, I have resolved to form a council of state, constituting the
first and highest magistrature in the country after me, the prince.
It will consist of six ministers, each of whom will preside over a
department of the administration, and of various privy councillors. The
ministers are to draw up reports on affairs, the councillors are to
examine them,--then authorize acts to be laid before me for my approval.
Ministers, as well as the councillors, are responsible to the prince
and people for their acts, and especially for every abuse they may be
guilty of in the exercise of their power.”
“Thirdly, I have caused our civil and criminal code, to the digestion
of which four years have been consecrated, once more to be revised,
improved, and rendered more intelligible. These will be laid before
our judges, that they may, according to their contents, protect the
innocent and punish the guilty. Henceforth, every Servian will meet
with protection and justice, not as formerly, in the opinions of the
judge, but under the ægis of the law. Through similar institutions,
the internal administration, will, I trust, become strengthened and
connected as by a chain. The people will be placed under the elders, the
captains, and judges; the judges under the council of state; the council
under the prince, and in contact with the prince; the prince himself
under the law, and in constant relation with the council. A similar
institution will, I hope, act as a curb on the arbitrary will of us all
in general, and of each of us in particular. It is possible, that even
in these institutions, imperfections may be detected; they will, in the
course of time, come to light, and be remedied. Neither my judgment, nor
the information I am possessed of, nor the time I have at my disposal,
have sufficed to bring to perfection so important a task, that is, so as
to enable me to say, ‘No one will be able to find fault with my work,’
or ‘It is the most perfect work upon earth.’”
“Having thus fulfilled the promise I made, to introduce order in the
internal administration, I shall beg your attention to the other
important question, mentioned in my speech of last year,--namely, how
should contributions be levied on the people?”
“The Servian nation is placed under the necessity of meeting annually
the following expenses: The tribute to the sultan; the salary of the
prince and his family; the salaries of persons holding situations under
government; the salary of bishops; expenditure for the maintenance of a
military force at home for the police, and also for the troops on the
frontiers; for post establishments; for the quarantine establishment;
for the mission at Constantinople; for the agents at different places;
and lastly, expenses for unforeseen circumstances.”
“Hitherto, revenues drawn from different sources, have enabled us to
defray the above indispensable expenses; in future, the Servian nation
must, as for the past, furnish us with the necessary supplies. I have,
in concert with the legislative body, endeavoured to find out the means
of satisfying the imperious claims of necessity in the lightest and
most equitable manner for the people, and, at the same time, the most
convenient for our government. We had, during the course of last year,
several discussions on the subject; some entertaining one opinion,
others a different one. I perceived, at last, that it was preferable to
draw up an estimate of the expenditure of Servia, and to collect the
amount directly, and in one sum, from the people. The collection of this
tax shall be made at two different epochs of the year, one half being
paid at the feast of St. George, 23d April, the other at that of St.
Demetrius, 9th November, thus to afford the people time enough in the
interval to collect the sum requisite before the appointed day.”
“To prevent the people from being hourly teased by small indirect
contributions, I have established but one tax, one of three dollars
every six months, from every one; let every one, I say, pay three
dollars half-yearly, and thus be exempt from paying any thing; whether
for poll-tax, church taxes, matrimony tax, mill and distillery tax, a
corn tax, and also the tenth on Indian corn, wheat, barley, and oats;
the tenth on bee-hives and wine; and lastly, let the people be exempted
from all kinds of obligatory service to men in office, except in those
cases where government requires labourers for works of public utility;
but even in this case, government shall pay wages to every man who
shall work a whole day. Roads and bridges alone shall be constructed
at the expense of the different villages. Forests and pasture-grounds
shall, in future, be a national property; the whole nation paying
contributions for them, it is but fair that the whole nation should
enjoy the privilege of making use of them. Now if the people will duly
weigh the numerous advantages that will arise from this new mode of
taxation, I trust every one will allow that no nation in Europe is more
lightly taxed than the Servians.”
“It remains to be seen, whether the produce of this tax is sufficient
for the annual expenses. Our administration must now ascertain whether
it be so or not. It will be the duty of the minister of finances at the
expiration of the year to lay the accounts before me, the council and
the national assembly, exhibiting the income as well as the expenses of
government.”
“In order, however, that the assessment of this tax may be made in such
a manner, that the richest as well as the poorest Servian may remain
satisfied, I lay before you the census of the population, in which the
number of married, as well as unmarried individuals is marked: the
property of every Servian is also noted down, and of course the elders
of every village are aware of the amount of each man’s tithes. It is
according to this list, and to each man’s income, that the assessment
of this tax is to take place. To decide what portion of this tax each
individual has to pay is neither my business nor government’s; this
is to be determined by the elders of each municipality. They should
examine this list, compare the amount of the tithes paid by each person,
and in concert with the captains and judges of the district, make the
assessment of this tax in such a manner as not to give to the poor
motives for accusing them of partiality.”
“These words I address to you, Brethren and Gentlemen, and request
you will let me hear, or communicate in writing, your undisguised and
unanimous opinion on the subject, in order to enable me to ascertain
whether you approve of the institutions I have alluded to,--whether
you agree with me on the amount of taxation as well as on the mode of
levying it. Let me hear your opinion, now that you are assembled, and
after having sworn to-day the statutes, choose amongst you the most
capable individuals, and invest them with full powers to act as your
representatives here so as to enable me to act in concert with them and
the Council of State. These persons will afterwards return to their
homes and acquaint you with the result of our combined labours. Chosen
by yourselves, these persons will be your deputies; and those whose
representatives they are must provide for their entertainment;--they
will assist at every meeting in order to examine the accounts, and
communicate information to the people on the subject.”
“So considerable a reunion of men as the present one, cannot, owing
to the expense it occasions, take place annually; but Deputies of the
People, such as I propose to you, exist in other countries and are
equally necessary in our own.”
Private letters further state that the death of the Emperor Francis has
been followed by very serious agitations in Hungary and Transylvania;
that the sultan is proceeding rapidly and boldly with his plans of
reform at Constantinople; and I observe that a company has been
established in London for the purpose of connecting Marseilles
with Constantinople by a line of steam-packets. Thus preparations
are in progress throughout all that region for great changes; and
communications between Vienna by the Danube, the Black Sea, the
Mediterranean, and London, may be said to be on the eve of completion,
which will afford the merchant, the politician, or the summer traveller
the opportunity of visiting most of the principal cities of Europe,
within the brief period of a month or six weeks--a tour upon which
hitherto no person could think of entering who had not at least a full
year at his disposal. Such are some of the miracles of the age of steam!
♦ NEIGHBOURHOOD OF GLADOVA ♦
The country around Gladova presents a picturesque succession of hills,
which sloping gradually towards the Danube, open their bosoms to the
southern sun. At present they are scarcely cultivated, but it can hardly
be doubted that in a few years they will be converted into vineyards,
for which the soil is well adapted. The Count looked forward with
singular pleasure to the improvements which his efforts were calculated
to produce in all the countries washed by his native river.
♦ WALLACHIAN HUT ♦
We were invited in the evening to take tea with the military, or rather
the quarantine, commandant of the place. As we quitted our boat the day
had just closed. There was a golden hue along the verge of the horizon
towards the east, and the new moon appeared in the transparent sky of
Servia a delicate crescent of silver. I had never before beheld our
satellite at so early a period of its monthly course. It seemed to have
but that moment received on its mountain tops the first rays of the sun.
I no longer wondered that it should have been adopted as a national
ensign in that country: seen, as I then saw it, suspended like the bow
of an angel in the heavens, it was an object almost for adoration.
Our host, a Wallachian officer in blue uniform, was a well-looking
young man, full of good nature. His house, or rather his hut, was
constructed of hurdle, plastered on both sides with mud, and on the
inside whitewashed, the walls betraying all the irregularities of the
wicker-work. The flat roof was in the same style. His bed, a mattress,
which lay in one corner, raised a few feet from the ground, was the
common sofa. His chamber boasted of two tables, on one of which his
museum and toilet were established, consisting of heads and amber
mouthpieces of Turkish pipes, a silver bell, a pair of scissors, a
snuffbox, a musical box, a dressing-case, a huge silver watch, a
penknife, a smelling-bottle, and a pot of pomatum; all enshrined beneath
a brown gauze veil. On the wall a gay rug, exhibiting in the middle a
Mameluke holding a hound in the leash, was suspended, and within this
compartment were tastefully displayed his sword, gun, cartouche-box,
powder-horn, ataghan, belt, and epaulets.
♦ MATRIMONIAL SPECULATION ♦
Our party was soon increased by one of our friend’s brother officers,
an ill-looking guest with one eye, who was accompanied by a great, fat,
ugly woman, without a tooth in her head, dressed out in all her finery
of “tinsel and brocade.” Though not young it was apparent that she had
won the heart of her attendant, who having found for her a chair, placed
himself on a stool at her feet, holding her brawny hand in his, which
he frequently kissed. I learned afterwards that she was very rich, and
that hearing of the establishment of the steam-boat she removed from
the interior of the country to Gladova, with a view to look out for a
husband. She appeared to be on the highway to success.
♦ CHARMS OF PROCRASTINATION ♦
We had tea in tumbler glasses, mixed with milk and rum, which, as the
evening was cold, we unanimously pronounced excellent. The musical box
in the mean time was wound up, and afforded the _lovers_ a treat.
The Count entered into the spirit of the scene with the most playful
goodhumour, exhibiting that unaffected condescension, that happy power
of placing himself upon an equality with those around him, without at
the same time impairing the natural dignity of his manner, which have
procured for him unrivalled influence amongst his own countrymen. We
finished the night in our cabin with a rubber of whist, the count taking
“dumby” against Mr. Tasner and myself.
Morning came again (October 5), but still no sign of the carriages or
merchandise, for which we were waiting. We were all really provoked by
this protracted delay, which seemed unaccountable, as we had received
intelligence of their arrival at Orsova. The Count, having procured
a horse, said he would ride on as far as the “Iron Door,” hoping to
meet the caravan on the way. He hoped in vain, and rode on to Orsova,
where he found the oxen and men engaged for the purpose, all asleep! He
set about putting the oxen to the cars himself, and remained until he
saw the whole team on the road. The laziness of these Wallachians is
indomitable. They would have remained at Orsova for a week, without
thinking of moving, if the Count had not luckily paid them a visit.
♦ DEPARTURE FROM GLADOVA ♦
Our cargo having been once more arranged on board, we most willingly
took our departure from Gladova at noon the next day. The Danube being
extremely low, we were obliged to proceed at a cautious pace until after
we passed Trajan’s bridge, where the water became deeper. The Count
pointed out to me the tops of the higher range of the Balkan mountains,
which appeared at a great distance, like a blue vapour in the sky. The
country on each side of the river seemed wholly uncultivated; it was
composed of gently-swelling hills, which, when subjected to the plough,
will, doubtless, abundantly repay the toil of the husbandman. The grass
was parched by the long-continued drought, which had scarcely been
interrupted by more than partial showers during the preceding seven
or eight months. In spring those hills clothed in fresh verdure must
look beautiful. Naked and desolate even as they then appeared, every
bend of the Danube, and the bends were innumerable, opened a new and
ever-varying prospect.
♦ BENDS IN THE DANUBE ♦
The Wallachian bank, exposed to all the fervour of the noonday sun,
appeared peculiarly destined for the vintage. But the whole of that
country had been so long distracted by anarchy, that the people, who
had fled to Hungary are only now beginning to return. Their cottages
are still constructed in the most simple and temporary style, because
they do not feel assured of the continuance of that domestic peace,
which happily they now enjoy. When the population increase--when their
habitations are improved--when their industry is encouraged by the
influence of order and the laws, and they feel themselves protected
from the spoliation of marauding armies--they will be enabled, with the
assistance of a few years, to convert the whole of that region into a
Paradise. The Servian territory also, on our right, seemed capable of
great things. The soil looked rich and crumbling; nor was beauty of
scenery wanting to its other attractions.
Some hours after leaving Orsova, such is the extraordinary manner in
which the Danube winds in its course, that it actually retrogrades
towards Moldava, and I came again in sight of the mountains through
which I had passed in the fishing-boat. These mountains stretch across
the north-east angle of Servia, where they form a cluster like the
Apennines, and partly divide that principality from Bulgaria. We
stopped for the night at Vervo.
♦ APPROACH TO VIDIN ♦
Having resumed our voyage at the dawn (October 7), we arrived early
at Kalefat, where we took on board three Wallachian officers of the
quarantine, as the Count intended to pay a visit to the Pacha of Vidin.
The redoubts still remain here which were thrown up by the Turks
during the late war with Russia, and in the neighbourhood of which a
severe engagement took place. The Russians are supposed to have lost
eight thousand men on that occasion, although in their report of the
battle they took no note of the slain. The important city of Vidin, in
Bulgaria, exhibited at this point a very imposing aspect. I counted
twenty minarets shooting up their whitened spires above the domes of
the mosques, and amidst the tall cypresses, which are found in almost
every Turkish town. Several troops of infantry were encamped on a plain
in the neighbourhood; the activity which prevailed about their tents,
and the marching and countermarching of divisions in order of battle,
informed us that they were under review at that moment by the Pacha. The
regiments seemed well accoutred, and thoroughly conversant with the
evolutions which they had to perform.
♦ MAGNATE’S COSTUME ♦
As we approached Vidin, the scene became extremely animated and
picturesque. Numerous boats were gliding up and down the river, between
the town and the camp, or stationed near the bank, where crowds of the
inhabitants, including a large proportion of females, were collected in
order to see the steam-boat. Two or three groups of ladies, who appeared
to be persons of distinction, as I concluded, from the respect which was
paid to them, as well as from their snow-white lawn veils and their long
green and scarlet cloth pelisses, were seated apart from the multitude.
They had no male attendant with them, and they occasionally rose and
walked about, as if to show that they were under no sort of restraint.
The Count having obtained permission from the Turkish authorities
to go ashore, exchanged his ordinary dress for the court costume of
a Hungarian magnate, which is peculiarly splendid and becoming. It
resembles the uniform of an officer of the hussars, with the exception
that the jacket, as well as the short mantle, are of purple velvet.
The Count’s sword and sword-belt, with its large gold clasp, were
magnificent. He wore, moreover, the gold key as chamberlain to the
emperor, and three or four Austrian collars and orders. He had the
goodness to invite Mr. Tasner and myself to accompany him on his visit;
the former had already a character as his secretary, and as it was
necessary for me to comply so far with Turkish customs as to appear also
a member of the Count’s travelling suite, I became for the hour his
_physician_!
♦ VISIT TO HUSSEIN PACHA ♦
The pacha to whom we were about to pay our respects was the celebrated
Hussein, who had so bravely defended Shumla against the Russian army in
the last war. He is known to be the best soldier, and one of the most
able men in the Ottoman empire; but having failed in the expedition
to Syria, where he was twice beaten by Ibrahim, he was recalled in
disgrace. His enemies at the Porte strenuously exerted themselves to
have him introduced to the acquaintance of the eunuch who has possession
of the bowstring; but the sultan respected the talents of Hussein,
and never doubted his fidelity. Had he remained at Constantinople,
he would have probably regained his former ascendancy in the state:
he was therefore _exiled_ with the extraordinary rank, however, of
Field-marshal to the Pachalic of Vidin, where he endeavours to forget
his reverse of fortune in his exertions to form a few regiments who are
intended to be models of discipline to the whole army. Hussein is a
sincere patriot--a thorough hater of Russia; and there is no doubt that,
if a revolution were to occur at the capital, threatening a change of
dynasty, he would be found a formidable champion of the Mahometan cause.
♦ THE PACHA’S DEPUTY ♦
Upon landing with our quarantine attendants, we were conducted through
an immense crowd of the people on shore, who received us with every
possible degree of civility, to the pacha’s palace, which is just at
the entrance to the town. Ascending an open staircase we were shown,
in the first instance, to a large balcony which commanded a fine view
of the river. Here we found the pacha’s chief officer sitting in state
in the usual Turkish fashion, on a wooden sofa, which was covered with
a carpet. He had two or three pillows to support his back, was smoking
a long pipe with an ordinary amber mouthpiece, and was surrounded by
eight or ten domestics, some of whom were most wretchedly attired in the
Greek or European dress, barefooted, and wearing on their heads the red
Greek cap, which, in fact, is like a red cloth nightcap with a blue silk
tassel at the top, and to my mind peculiarly unbecoming.
♦ AN INTERPRETER ♦
The Count had forgotten to provide an interpreter. The embarrassment,
therefore, may be easily conceived, which was felt by both parties, when
the vice-governor could not ask us what we wanted; and if he did ask any
such question, we could make no reply. We examined each other, so far as
looks could serve, with unfeigned curiosity, and resolved that we were
mutually in a very ludicrous situation; from which, however, we were,
after half an hour’s delay, fortunately released by the entrance of
Hussein’s physician.
This man was a Florentine by birth; but he had been sent to Turkey at a
very early age to seek his fortune, and had now almost wholly forgotten
his native language. He affected to speak French, and was looked up
to by the vice-regal court of Vidin as a linguist of the first order.
He was dressed in the Greek cap, blue round jacket and trousers, gray
worsted stockings, and yellow slippers. There was a sinister expression
in his eye, and a consciousness of guilt upon his flushed forehead, as
well as in his nervous utterance, which warned us at once that we were
in the presence of an adventurer, who for an adequate consideration
would never refuse the secret exercise of his skill against the enemy of
his employer. We felt as if we could read in his countenance a volume of
crime, and we afterwards learned from our quarantime companions that our
suspicions were by no means unfounded.
♦ EXPLANATIONS ♦
The Count explained in French, that he had come to pay his respects
to the pacha, upon which we were informed that the pacha was not at
home; that he had gone out with his favourite son to review the troops
encamped near the town, but that he was expected back every moment, as
his carriage had been sent for him, and a messenger would be despatched
to hasten his arrival. The physician stood at the end of the sofa,
covered, as in fact we also were, in compliance with the manners of
Turkey; whenever he had occasion to speak to the vice-governor he put
his hand to his forehead, then to his lips and breast, the established
mode of giving the salaam, which by the way constantly reminded me of a
Roman Catholic making the sign of the cross. Our carpet stools meanwhile
were brought from the steam-boat, in order that we should strictly
observe the quarantine laws, by not touching any thing capable of
communicating the plague. We then sat down, looking at each other, as
before, for nearly an hour, the silence being now and then interrupted
by a question addressed to the physician by the vice-governor, then
interpreted to the Count, who gave his answer, which was again
interpreted to the vice-governor, who nodded his head, looked surprised,
and again puffed a more than ordinary cloud of smoke from his distended
cheeks.
♦ PLEASURES OF DISGUISE ♦
I own I did not feel quite at ease in my medical character. I was
apprehensive that the physician would have interrogated me on
professional matters, and would have discovered my entire ignorance
of the subject, for in truth I had never opened a medical book in my
life. Luckily he avoided every topic of the kind as much as I did, and
most probably for the very same reason. Pipes and coffee were brought,
which varied the scene for a moment, the attendants taking scrupulous
care while they handed us the little china cups on a tray, and the long
pipes, to keep themselves from touching any part of our dress with their
own habiliments.