arches of the high chapel over the sacristy (see Fig. 983) are of
thirteenth century work, as their ornamentation would at first sight
lead one to suppose, they might possibly have been re-erected in their
present position; but they are more likely to have been made in
imitation of thirteenth century work, and built here at a late period.
The section of the arch mouldings (Fig. 1000) is almost identical with
that of the chapter house arches, which (as will be afterwards
explained) are almost undoubtedly of very late date.
These arches gave a view of the altar from a high chapel, which, as will
be pointed out, was perhaps connected with the library or dormitory. The
chapel has been added to the church, and the walls are not bonded into
the choir. The decoration of the upper portion, with its imitation
dog-tooth or nail-head ornament round a straight sided arch (Fig. 1001),
shows that it is of very late date.
[Illustration: FIG. 1001.--Iona Cathedral. Interior of Sacristy and
Chapel above.]
This structure appears to occupy the position of the original north
aisle, which at one time extended (or was contemplated) the full length
from the presbytery to the north transept. The water table over the old
aisle roof runs the whole length, and has a sloping water table where
the roof abutted against the north transept. The old corbels to receive
the timbers of the aisle roof also still exist. The aisle would no doubt
block one of the Norman transept windows, but that could not be
avoided.
The doorway from the choir to the sacristy (see Fig. 987) is a very fine
feature, and one would be inclined to consider it somewhat earlier than
the other parts of the sacristy and upper chapel. Possibly it may have
formed an access to the aisle before the upper chapel was raised to its
present position.
The above examination of the choir, south aisle, and sacristy leads to
the belief that they are all of a late period, probably about 1500. The
entire building bears evidence of having been in whole or part
re-erected about the end of the fifteenth century or the beginning of
the sixteenth century, possibly when it became the Cathedral of the
Isles in 1506. Some portions, such as the north transept, the north and
west sides of the crossing, the wheel stair to the tower and parts of
the walling connected therewith, are older; but all the rest, including
the east and south arches of the crossing, is of a much later date.
Besides the points to which attention has been drawn above, it may be
noted that the buttresses of the choir, which from their form may have
been raised from ancient bases, have on each angle a single bead on
their lower part and a triple bead on the upper part (see Fig. 984). The
upper story of the tower, which is admittedly very late, has also a
triple bead on the angles of the top story. May it not have happened
that the building suffered from some cause, or was intentionally taken
down and reconstructed about the end of the fifteenth or beginning of
the sixteenth century? Such an event might account for the antique form
of the buttresses, which may have been raised from existing portions of
old buttresses; while the triple bead on their upper story would show
the change of style introduced at the time of the reconstruction. It
would also explain the preservation of the old doorway to the sacristy,
while the upper parts of the walls were rebuilt. The very irregular
appearance of the lower part of the north wall of the choir might also
be thus accounted for. The interior string course on the north side,
which rises in large steps from the sacristy door, is composed of stones
partly enriched and partly plain, as if it formed part of a
reconstruction in which old materials had been reused. The clerestory
windows, with their ancient forms, are doubtless reproductions of the
outlines which formerly existed.
The section of the south-east pier of the crossing (see Fig. 998) shows
that the south transept is of about the same period as the choir, the
round responds in each corresponding with the circular piers of the
choir, and the carved caps being very similar in both (see Figs. 989 and
990); and the south wall of the transept, with its late traceried window
and buttresses and base course, is evidently of the same period as the
presbytery. The mouldings of the mullions are in both cases returned
along the sills, an unusual and late arrangement.
The rebuilt part of the crossing has arch moulds which correspond in
style with those of the south aisle arches, and the sculpture of the
caps
[Illustration: FIG. 1002.--Iona Cathedral. Chapter House.]
also corresponds with that of the aisle piers, both containing, as above
mentioned, fine examples of Celtic foliage and figures. The peculiar
traceried windows at the east end of the south aisle of choir and the
adjoining piscina (see Fig. 999) are also clearly of late date.
The cloister lies to the north of the nave; it measures 73 feet from
north to south by 66 feet from east to west. The cloister walk has had a
wooden roof all round, resting on corbels (see Fig. 994) in the main
wall, and on an arcade on the side next the cloister garth. Some
fragments of the shafts and arches of the arcade are preserved in the
chapter house, and the bases of a twin column, socketed for the shafts,
stand on the wall at the north-west angle. The arcade would thus appear
to have rested on coupled shafts, and, so far as can be ascertained by
examination of the only surviving portion at the south-west angle and
the fragments in the chapter house, the arches were pointed and carved
with Celtic ornament somewhat similarly to the arches of the sedilia in
the choir (see Fig. 986). In each angle of the cloister walk an arch has
been thrown across the walk diagonally, so as to strengthen and steady
the walls. Only one of these arches, that at the south-west angle (see
Fig. 994), remains entire, those in the other angles being reduced to
fragments. This arch is the only one which is moulded on the edge, the
others being splayed. These arches have evidently been built after the
walls adjoining, as they fit awkwardly against previously existing
doorways at the north-east and north-west angles. That at the south-west
angle butts against a structure which seems to have formed a turret
adjoining the north-west angle of the nave. This turret contains a small
chamber, at about 7 feet to 8 feet above the floor of the nave, which
enters by a small door from the nave, and is said to be the porter’s
lodge. It has a curiously cusped loophole opening in the direction of
the church door.
The cloister is surrounded by buildings on the east and north. The north
transept has a door to the cloister, and a benitier is placed near the
entrance. Next to the transept on the north is a chamber, 10 feet wide,
entering from the cloister (see Fig. 982), and lighted by a window to
the east. There is a fireplace in the east wall of this room, being the
only fireplace in the monastery. It seems doubtful whether this chamber
was not originally the slype or passage from the cloister towards the
east, as there is no other passage.
Next to this, on the north, is the chapter house, which projects beyond
the general line of the buildings, the portion next the cloister having
the appearance of a vestibule. The inner cloister enters from the
vestibule by two arches (Fig. 1002), which rest on a central round
pillar and corbels at the sides. This pillar is sometimes stated to be
of Norman work, and the chapter house is, consequently, regarded as of
Norman date. But a careful examination of the pillar and its capital
leads to the conclusion that it is comparatively a late structure. The
carving of the cap (Fig. 1003) is very peculiar. On the outer or west
side, the ornament, which is somewhat decayed, resembles that of the
caps of the adjoining nunnery church, and may easily be mistaken for
ancient. But the ornament of the inner or east side of the cap (see Fig.
1003) is quite different, and is undoubtedly of very late design, being
similar to that on the carved tombstones of the fifteenth or sixteenth
centuries, such as that in Figs. 991 and 992. The dog-tooth or nail-head
ornament of the arches, although at first sight like first pointed work,
is found, on closer inspection, to consist of late imitations--showing
three small nail-heads placed close together, so as to form an
enrichment in a manner not at all transition like. The same remark
applies to the enrichments of the high chapel in the choir (see Fig.
1000).
[Illustration: FIG. 1003.--Iona Cathedral. Details of Central Pillar in
Chapter House.]
The walls of the eastern part of the cloister are not over 2 feet 6
inches in thickness (which would be very unusual in Norman work), and
they have been strengthened by interior piers when the present flat
barrel arch was erected over the chapter house. This probably took place
when the upper part of this portion of the building was raised a story
in height, possibly in order to form the library on the upper floor. It
is evident, from an examination of the junction of the walls on the
exterior, that the upper floor of this part of the building was added at
a late period. Both vestibule and chapter house appear to have had a
stone seat running along the walls, and the whole may possibly have
formed the place of assembly of the monks. Probably, like the chapter
house at St. Andrews, the western portion, or vestibule, was the
original chapter house, and the inner division was added at a later
period.
From the chapter house a passage is visible in the upper part of the
east wall of the north transept. In order to admit of this, the wall of
the transept (as above pointed out) has required to be made of great
thickness, and this explains the depth of the two recesses under it in
the transept previously referred to. As already mentioned, there was an
upper floor over the chapter house and the adjoining portions of the
east range of the cloister buildings. Part of this upper floor is
believed to have been the library--the literary treasures of which were
famous--and part would, no doubt, be the dormitory of the monks.
It seems not improbable that the passage in the transept wall may have
led from the library or dormitory to the chapel in the upper aisle of
the choir over the sacristy, and the use of that chapel would thus be
explained. The chapel, as already mentioned, is a structure of late
erection, as is apparent from the imitation dog-tooth running round the
straight-sided arch of the east window (see Fig. 1002). The passage in
the transept wall may be much older, but was possibly utilised in
connection with the late reconstruction of the monastery, as above
suggested.
To the north of the chapter house are two chambers of good size, over
which an upper story has extended, as the remains of the windows show.
The north side of the cloister has been occupied by the refectory, a
building 63 feet long by 20 feet wide. It is situated on the first or
upper floor, and is of late work; but seems to occupy the position of a
previous refectory, which formerly stood on the site, and of which some
portions of the walls remain. The first refectory appears to have been
on the ground floor, as the remains of what must have been a handsome
doorway in the south wall near the west end of this range prove. This
doorway has had three orders of mouldings with shafts and caps, about 7
feet high, apparently of thirteenth century work, of which some
fragments remain, partly built into the adjoining angle structure. The
latter is evidently a late erection, as it encloses part of the west
jamb of the above doorway. The pier of the diagonal arch of the cloister
walk at the east end of the refectory also encroaches on the door beside
it. At a somewhat late period the refectory has been raised to the upper
floor, and an entrance made to it by a wide staircase at the east end
(which would also probably form the day staircase to the dormitory). The
ground floor is low, and has loopholes for windows. It has apparently
been used for cellars or storages. There is a wide pointed doorway
leading into it at the north-west angle (see Fig. 997). The north
elevation of the structure is fairly preserved.
The buttresses seem to be reconstructions on the lines of the original
ones, but the windows, both in the north elevation and towards the
cloister, are of later date.
The eastern range of buildings is continued northwards beyond the
refectory by a chamber 33 feet long by 12 feet 6 inches wide, which
seems to have been connected on the upper floor with a lavatory and
latrine. The latter has a built channel, evidently intended, from the
low aperture at each end, for the passage of a stream of water, which
could be easily led into it from the neighbouring burn. To the west of
this stand the walls, 3 feet high, of a nearly detached edifice, with a
separate outer doorway, which may perhaps have been an infirmary. To the
north-east, the low walls are observable of a detached structure 58 feet
9 inches long by 21 feet 6 inches wide. The only wall opening traceable
is the doorway, which has been of simple design. This is supposed by
some to have been the kitchen, but it seems doubtful. There is no
appearance of a fireplace.
A small detached chapel, 38 feet in length by 20 feet 9 inches in width
over the walls, lies to the north-east of the chapter house. It has had
a doorway in the north wall, a small centre window in the east wall, and
a similar window in each of the side walls near the east end. The
windows are trefoil headed and cusped, and appear to be late. The
doorway had two orders, with a bead on each. The orientation of this
building is different from that of the cathedral.
Adjoining the south-west angle of the cloister, and built out from it,
is a small enclosure containing stone coffins (see Fig. 994).
Immediately beyond this are the remains of another enclosure, connected
with a Celtic cross (called St. Martin’s) near the west end of the
cathedral (see Fig. 995). The inner of these chambers, which encloses
the stone coffins, is called “St. Columba’s Tomb.” Dr. Skene is of
opinion that it is actually the structure which contained the body of
St. Columba, the coffin of that Saint being placed on the right or south
side, and that of St. Blathmac (a martyr who died in defending the abbey
against the Northmen in 825) being placed on the left or north side.
This view is, however, controverted by Sir Henry Dryden in a MS. of
1879, deposited in the Antiquarian Museum in Edinburgh.
There is also a well in the same locality as the above enclosures.
The ruins of a chapel of some size (48 feet long by 30 feet wide over
the walls) lie at a short distance to the west of the cloister. The
walls are reduced to a few feet in height, and are partly rebuilt in a
rough manner. There seems to have been a doorway in the east end, but
this is doubtless not original. A turret can be traced at the south-east
angle and another at the south-west angle.
To the north-east of the cloister lie the total ruins of what is called
the Abbot’s House, and at some distance to the south-east of the church
may be observed the greatly demolished remains of a chapel.
In the choir are preserved several monuments. On the south side, close
to the sedilia (see Fig. 986), lies the well sculptured effigy of Abbot
Kenneth; and on the north side, near the door of the sacristy, is the
effigy of Abbot M‘Kinnon, the last abbot of Iona (the head being visible
in Fig. 987), around which is legible the following inscription, “Hic
jacet Johannes MacFingone, Abbas de Hy qui obiit anno Domini Millessimo
Quingentessimo cujus animae propitietur Deus Altissimus. Amen.”
In the floor of the choir a large slab shows the remains of brass work,
and against the east wall rests the carved figure of a knight, with
shield and spear, said to be the monument of a M‘Lean (see Fig. 983).