SUMMER-HOUSES.
The lean-to summer-house shown by Fig. 158 is intended for a small
garden. Perhaps in no better way can a dead wall or the back of some
unsightly outhouse be better utilised than as the background for such a
building. The dimensions of the structure are: length, 8 ft.; breadth, 3
ft. 3 in.; height, 8 ft.
[Illustration: Fig. 158.--Lean-to Summer-house.]
[Illustration: Fig. 159.--Ground Plan of Lean-to Summer-house.]
Its general arrangement is seen in the ground plan (Fig. 159). Four
pillars, A, B, B, A, occupy the front. These are poles 3-1/2 in. or 4
in. in diameter. Any rough and tolerably straight wood will do, but
larch is to be preferred. These rise 5 ft. above ground, and should not
have less than 2 ft. below the surface. The dwarf pillars C supporting
the seat are of similar stuff, but rather smaller. They show 14 in.
above, and should be buried about 9 in. below ground. The pilasters D
are of rather larger stuff sawn in half. These are only 5 ft. long, as
they need not enter into the ground, being fixed only by strong nails to
the wall.
[Illustration: Fig 160.--Elevation of Inside of End of Lean-to
Summer-house.]
The ends of the summer-house (the space from A to D) are of smaller
half-stuff, ranged side by side (as seen at E, E), and nailed to the
cross-pieces, F and G, which appear in Fig. 160. In this last-named
figure also appears one of the wall-plates, resting on and nailed to the
tops of the pillars (H, at Fig. 160), and at I is seen where one of the
front wall-plates meets it. There are two of these front wall-plates,
each resting on the two pillars to right and left of the entrance, and
their inner ends appear in Fig. 158, where the ends of the purlins which
form the small gable rest upon them. The wall-plates are of large
half-stuff, with the flat side above. In Fig. 160 will be seen how the
short cross-piece which carries the sloping end of the roof is
supported; and Fig. 161, which is a section through the centre of the
building, explains how the ridge-piece of the small gable, E, rests at
its inner end on a crosspiece M from rafter to rafter, seen in section
only, whilst N shows the point at which the purlins meet and support the
ridge-piece towards its outer end. The intersection of the diagonal
braces in the gable is indicated at O, and P shows the course of one of
the rafters, and how its upper end rests against the wall, and upon a
ridge-piece of half-stuff, Q, strongly nailed to the masonry.
The elevation (Fig. 158) explains pretty clearly the ornamental details
of the front. They are not elaborate. It will be seen that the top of
each pillar has a small cap, formed of four pieces of quartered stuff,
mitred at the corners, and that across the opening on each side of the
entrance, near the top, is a "transom" of straight wood, with a little
arrangement of crooked bangles round it. Over the entrance are diagonal
braces crossing, and also a little filling-in with bangles. The entrance
is 5 ft. 10 in. high.
In order that an ornamental and appropriate lining may be given to the
back of our summer-house, it is recommended to plug the wall, and nail
over it a level covering of thin boards--say, 1/2-in. matchboarding.
Upon this the decorative work can be bradded. The back of the seat is
shown in Fig. 158 to be of rustic mosaic. Above this, as well as under
the seats, a covering of bark has been introduced. British-grown bark,
such as elm, can be made to lie flat, but as in any but rural districts
this may be difficult to get, virgin cork may be made to take its place.
Fig. 160 gives an inside view of one of the ends, and from this it will
be seen that the ornamentation of those parts varies little from that of
the back. The lower band, however, answering to the strip under the
seats, is not bark, which, in this place, would be liable to be kicked
and destroyed by the feet, but of smaller half-stuff, so arranged as to
break joint with the outside pieces. This will be seen by referring to
the ground plan. Any chinks in the ends should be neatly tucked with
moss, so as to make them wind-proof.
The roof is of wooden shingles--things which any rough hand at carpentry
can prepare and put on for himself. As will be seen from Fig. 158, it is
easy to give an ornamental character to these. They will have a rustic
look, which will go well with other parts of the structure, and, if
clumsily made, the effect will be none the worse. For the present
purpose, suppose the shingles to be 12 in. by 4 in. The lower ends may
be sawn to a variety of ornamental shapes.
If this covering is used, instead of nailing laths across the rafters,
it is proposed to cover the whole roof with similar boarding to the
back, and upon this it is a simple thing to nail the shingles, placing
them just as tiles might be placed. Whilst nailing them on, it will be
necessary to have some person within to hold a heavy hammer against the
place, otherwise the vibration will jar off the shingles as fast as they
are fixed. A 3/4-in. board, rather wider than half the length of the
shingles, should first be nailed along the eaves to make up the required
thickness.
[Illustration: Fig. 161.--Section through Centre of Lean-to
Summer-house.]
It will be noticed that the ends of the rafters are made to project so
as to give a good breadth of eaves--a desirable feature in so narrow a
building, alike for shade, shelter, and the appearance of cosiness. If,
however, the roof should be thatched, the projecting rafters will be
unnecessary, as the thatch alone will form sufficient eaves.
Down the "valleys" at the juncture of the main roof and the entrance
gable a strip of zinc will, of course, be nailed before the shingles are
put on, whilst along the ridges a strip of zinc will be nailed upon the
shingles; and this latter will need painting to match the colour of the
wood.
Various suggestions may be given for finishing the inside of the roof.
Supposing that round or half-round larch stuff has been used for the
rafters (the latter is to be preferred for shingles, as giving a level
surface to board upon), the space between the rafters may be covered
with bark--virgin cork or otherwise--the chinks being stuffed with moss.
But if this is done it will be well to fix the bark with screws, as the
vibration caused by driving nails would displace or loosen the shingles.
A second plan under the like circumstances would be before nailing the
boards upon the rafters to stretch matting across the latter--either
ordinary garden bast matting or, better, the more substantial rush
matting, both of which are very inexpensive. These have a pleasant
natural colour (the last-named especially, of a greenish hue), and are
so unartificial in their structure as to appear in no way out of place
among rustic work.
Or it may so happen that suitable larch stuff is not to hand, and that
ordinary sawn scantling has to be used for the rafters. If so, the whole
roof may be hung with ling; or the rush matting may be stretched across
the lower side of the rafters and tacked there, being afterwards more
completely secured and finished by nailing a split hazel or other rod
down the middle of each rafter. This last plan makes a neat and pleasing
roof.
[Illustration: Figs. 162 and 163.--Front and Side Elevations of Shelter
for Tennis Lawn.]
[Illustration: Fig. 164.--Part Roof, Seat, and Floor Plans for Tennis
Lawn Shelter.]
It scarcely needs to be said that to make such a summer-house look its
best the wall on each side ought to be covered with ivy or other
creepers; and it will also be obvious that, if the height of the wall
permits the floor of the summer-house to be raised a step or two above
the surrounding level, the structure will gain thereby both in
effectiveness of appearance and in pleasantness as a place in which to
sit.
[Illustration: Fig. 165.--Connecting Plates to Corner Post.]
[Illustration: Fig. 166.--Fixing Sleeper to Posts.]
[Illustration: Fig 167.--Section of Flooring.]
[Illustration: Fig. 168.--Finial.]
[Illustration: Fig. 169.--Detail of Garden Shelter at Front Eaves.]
[Illustration: Fig 170.--Section of Seat.]
The rustic summer-house or tennis lawn shelter illustrated in front and
side elevations by Figs. 162 and 163 is constructed from straight
saplings and twigs that have had their bark removed, and have been
subjected to a reasonable period of seasoning. A new feature in the
design is the accommodation under the seats for the reception of the
croquet or tennis gear, and also the extended eaves and floor (see Fig.
164) and the open front, giving at once an uninterrupted view of the
game and shelter from the direct rays of the sun.
The shelter is 10 ft. long by 5 ft. 6 in. wide, the height from the
floor to the eaves being 6 ft. 3 in., and from the floor to the ridge 9
ft. The four posts are 6 ft. 9 in. long by 6 in. in diameter. The middle
and lower end and the back rails are tenoned to the posts, a flat being
formed on the post by the mortise and a corresponding shoulder on the
rails. The remaining portion is worked to fit roughly the contour of the
post.
The plates are 5 in. by 5 in. in section, and are secured to the posts
with long galvanised bolts and nuts and a 3-1/2-in. square washer under
the heads of the bolts. When halving the front plate, allow it to house
into the side plates 1-1/2 in.; by this method it will have a bearing on
both posts. In Fig. 165 the left-hand plate represents the front. The
front posts are connected at the floor line by a scantling, 4 in. by 3
in., which also forms a sleeper for the floor joists; see Figs. 166 and
167.
The structure rests on a low plinth of bricks, spaces being left for the
circulation of air under the floor.
The extended floor also rests on bricks placed immediately below the
joists; see Fig. 167, which is a section on C D (Fig. 164). The twig
plinth nailed around the front will effectually conceal the sleeper and
brick foundation.
The rafters are 2-1/2 in. by 3 in., and the ridge and hip rafters 2 in.
by 5 in., the finials (see Fig. 168) being nailed between the angles of
the hips. The eaves in front project 2 ft. beyond the posts, and Fig.
169 shows the method by which the additional width is obtained.
[Illustration: Fig. 171.--Strapping Cushion to Seat.]
[Illustration: Fig. 172.--Front Elevation of Octagonal Summer-house.]
The sides are filled with 5/8-in. vee-grooved and tongued boarding, to
which is attached the rustic work.
The stained glass windows are fixed, and on the outer side of the back
are diagonal braces made from split saplings, while in the centre a
vertical post runs from sill to plate.
The braces and post are shown in the plan (Fig. 164).
The seats are constructed to form lockers (see Fig. 170, which is a
section at A B, Fig. 164), their height being 1 ft. 3 in., which, with
the addition of a 3-in. cushion, will form comfortable sitting
accommodation.
The cushions are retained in place by straps passing through slots and
fastening over suitable studs on the under side; see Fig. 171. This
method provides a means of easily removing and quickly replacing the
cushions when required for use. A space of 3 in., or a distance equal to
the thickness of the cushions, must be left at the sloping back, to
allow the seat to open properly.
The nature of the locker is partly concealed by the rustic work of split
twigs that is nailed to the front.
Next fix the lattice work between the finials and under the front plate.
The short struts on the front posts are more for effect than for any
real support.
The roof is boarded on the inside, the work being carried on the rafters
as far as the collar ties, and continued flat on these. Moulding is
fixed in the angles formed between the rafters and ties, and a cornice
is fixed at the plates. The heels of the rafters and plates are also
boarded around, as shown in Fig. 169.
The roof may be covered with thatch of wheat, straw, reeds, broom, or
heather, and the whole of the woodwork visible should be varnished.
The summer-house illustrated by Fig. 172 is suited to a garden of
moderate size, one in which space is not so restricted as to necessitate
crowding the building close against a wall. This octagonal summer-house
has a continuous seat some 15 ft. long. From side to side each way it
measures 10 ft. Fig. 172 is an elevation of the front of the house.
[Illustration: Fig. 173.--Ground Plan of Octagonal Summer house.]
[Illustration: Fig. 174.--Section of Octagonal Summer-house at Y Z
(Fig. 173), showing Framework.]
Its framework and the main part of it are of larch poles;
other woods are, however, used for minor purposes. The roof is of
thatch. In the arrangement of this building there is a certain
resemblance to a tent. It has a central pillar, A, not unlike a tent
pole, which sustains much of the weight of the roof. Being of first
importance, this pillar is somewhat larger than any of the other
timbers--say 6 in. in diameter near its bottom, and tapering as little
as may be. A rod of iron or wood rises from its top to form the centre
of the straw pinnacle seen crowning the roof in Fig. 172. This pillar
shows a height of 11 ft. 2 in. above ground, and it should be let 3 ft.
or more into the soil; for it will need to be firmly fixed, or it may be
forced out of the perpendicular during the erection of the roof; when
the roof timbers are once fixed in place, it will have little further
chance of moving. The diagram Fig. 173 is a ground plan, and Fig. 174 is
a section showing the timbers from the interior; both are drawn on a
scale of 1/4 in. to the foot.
The eight collar-posts (B, Figs. 173 and 174) at the corners of the
octagon are of somewhat smaller stuff--say 4 in. They show 6 ft. above
ground, and should have 2 ft. below. It will be well to gas-tar all the
underground work.
The ground plan of a building in this shape is readily laid out. The
space being levelled, a string is taken which has a loop at each end,
and is 5 ft. 2 in. long. With a stake driven through the loop at one end
as a centre, and with a stick passed through the loop at the other to
serve as the travelling leg of the compasses, a circle is struck 10 ft.
4 in. in diameter, and into this pegs are driven at equal intervals (4
ft. apart) to mark the centres of the eight collar-posts. Whilst digging
the holes for the posts, these points are kept by drawing two straight
lines on the ground which intersect at the peg.
The cross-pieces which rest on the collar-posts, and which serve as
wall-plates, are a trifle smaller stuff than the posts--say 3 in. Fig.
175 shows how they are cut to fit the tops of the posts, and nailed
there. In this building there are no mortise and tenon joints. On these
ends above the posts rest the lower ends of the eight main rafters, D,
the upper ends of which rest against and are nailed to the central
pillar. The eight intermediate rafters, E, rest at the bottom on the
middles of the side plates, and at top are cut to fit upon and between
the tops of the main rafters.
[Illustration: Fig. 175.--Collar Posts and Ends of Wall Plates.]
[Illustration: Fig. 176.--Timbers over Entrance of Octagonal
Summer-house.]
The laths used are in this case in no way particular--any sticks will
do; they will not be seen, and under thatch there is no necessity that a
level surface should be formed by them, as for slates or tiles. They are
nailed 6 in. or 8 in. apart.
The gable over the entrance is arranged as in Fig. 176. The laths, when
nailed on, will have to run over the little ridge formed by F, instead
of keeping the level, as on the other sides. This will cause no special
difficulties in the thatching.
The walls are of larch poles sawn in half. To split a number of heavy
poles with the handsaw is tedious work, and it is better to get them
run through by the nearest steam saw. The quantity of half-stuff
required may be easily calculated; one of these sides will take about
five and a half 6-ft. lengths of 4-in. stuff. The tops of these
wall-pieces are sawn obliquely to fit against the round wall-plates to
which they are nailed. In their lower parts they are nailed to the lower
cross-pieces, G, G, G, Fig. 174.
These latter will best be made of rather large stuff quartered, since
their upper sides on which the seat-boards rest should be level, as well
as their backs, which go against the wall-pieces. The middle
cross-pieces are of smaller half-stuff, and should be nailed to the
wall-pieces rather than that the wall-pieces should be nailed to them;
for they are in a conspicuous place, and nails driven through them and
clenched would be unsightly.
The front supports of the seats are let into the ground some 6 in., and
rise 14-1/2 in. above the ground line. The seats should be cut from
1-in. board, and should be about 16-1/2 in. wide.
In the two window sides of the octagon (see Figs. 177 and 172), the
space below the windows is filled with whole poles, their bottoms
resting on a sill let in level with the ground, and their tops nailed
into through a cross-piece of half-stuff (K, Fig. 177). The mullions and
transoms of the windows--mere sticks--are of small straight larch stuff,
but the ornamental filling in above is of crooked branches--oak bangles
by preference, though apple-wood would do very well. It often happens
that an old apple-tree is cut down, and at once condemned as firewood;
yet its stem may have grotesque knots, and its branches picturesque
contortions which would make it valuable for rustic work. Whenever
rustic building is contemplated, it is well that such wood should be
laid by; a single tree would supply all the small quantity of crooked
stuff that is required in the present instance. Even the interlaced
stems of ivy, when an old growth has covered a wall, have sometimes been
utilised to excellent effect.
[Illustration: Fig. 177.--Window Side of Octagonal Summer-house.]
It may be observed that any chinks between the pieces beneath the
windows, as well as in the walls generally, are most readily and
appropriately rendered wind-proof by neatly stuffing with moss. Fig. 177
gives a full front elevation of one of the window sides (they being only
seen obliquely in Fig. 172), and it is on the 1/2-in. scale.
Four stout crooked pieces are used as struts to support the table (drawn
to 1 in. scale in Figs. 178 and 179); 3/4-in. board will suffice for
the top of this table, and it will probably be cut from two widths. To
give proper strength to the ornamental border (seen in Fig. 179), a
second thickness of the board is attached below each corner, extending 3
or 4 in. to each side, so as to allow each of the longer bits of split
rod to be fixed, as shown, with two brads.
A really satisfactory material in which to finish the top of a rustic
table is not easily found; it must give a level surface, and at the same
time be in harmony with its surroundings. Board, planed or painted,
oilcloth, or any manufactured material, is felt to be out of place;
marble or slate looks cold and hard. Nothing that is absolutely level
satisfies the requirements; the best alternative is rustic mosaic. By
this is meant split rods of wood so bradded down as to form patterns.
For the present purpose, however, the mosaic must be kept more neat and
smooth than usual. Fig. 178 shows the top of the table thus treated.
The rods most in favour for rustic mosaic are those of the hazel. They
are to be bought cheaply and abundantly when the undergrowth of woods is
cut. They have a smooth and pretty bark, and the useful size is from 3/4
in. to 1-1/2 in. Sticks of other kinds of the same size can also be
used: birch and wild cherry may be named among those with smooth bark,
and wych elm and maple among those with rough; willow or withy, again,
is of most common growth, and exceedingly useful. In river-side
neighbourhoods it is often the cheapest and most plentiful of all woods.
For mosaic work, it is always peeled, for its bark is unattractive, and
its light colour when stripped makes it tell well in contrast to the
dark bark of other woods. If used, as it often is, for outdoor purposes
in garden carpentry, it should always be peeled. Country carpenters have
a saying that withy lasts twice as long without its bark as with it;
and in this there is much truth, for the loose bark holds the wet to the
wood and causes it to rot. To make it peel freely, it should be cut just
as the young leaves make their appearance. The like holds good with
other woods; but if it is desired that the bark should hold firmly, the
wood should be cut down in dead of winter, when all the sap is down.
[Illustration: Figs. 178 and 179.--Plan and Elevation of Table for
Octagonal Summer-house.]
The top of the table is supposed to be mainly composed of peeled withy.
The pattern contains only the double dark line bounding the star and the
single strip round the edge in hazel. So much white will not look amiss
in this place, and withy is easily worked. Hazel and most woods twist so
much in the grain that it is rarely safe to split them except with the
saw, but withy--in short lengths like these, at least--can be split with
a hatchet.
In rough carpentry there is no more pretty or interesting work than
these mosaics. The backs of the seats (Fig. 180), and the seats
themselves (Fig. 181), are decorated in this way. On the seats
themselves, as on the table top, hazel and withy are contrasted, and
form a design in alternate triangles; the separating bands, it may be
noticed, have a light strip against the dark, and a dark strip against
the light, triangle. Along the edge of the seats one or two strips
merely are nailed lengthwise. In such a situation an ornamental edging
like that round the table would be too liable to be broken. It is
recommended that the back of the seats should be in dark bark-covered
woods only, for the mosaic in that position will look better without any
mixture of the light-coloured withy.
The upper compartments of the sides with which the backs of those
sitting down will not come in contact may be more quickly and yet
pleasingly covered with sheets of bark. Elm bark is good for the
purpose. It may be peeled in large sheets from the trunks of trees
felled in spring, when the sap is rising; and whilst it is drying should
have bricks or stones laid on it to press it flat. When dried, it is
nailed to the walls, and any cracks which appear can be neatly filled
with moss. The space beneath the seats is also shown as roughly covered
with bark.
[Illustration: Fig. 180.--Seat Side of Octagonal Summer-house.]
The almost conical roof is thatched. No other covering is so pleasing as
thatch for a rustic building. Its colour and rough texture harmonise
well with the natural wood, and all its associations are of a rustic
character; no other covering so effectually excludes the summer heat,
and nowhere can one find a retreat so suggestive of coolness, quiet,
and repose, as under the low eaves of a thatched building. Thatch has,
it must be admitted, certain practical disadvantages--birds and winds
are apt to scatter fragments from it, and it needs renewing at
comparatively short intervals. The common saying is that a thatched roof
needs re-coating every ten years. Often, no doubt, this is near the
truth, yet really good work will frequently stand for almost twenty
years. The materials in use in this country are reeds, straw, and
stubble. Reeds make a strong thatch, but are not easily to be procured,
except in fenny districts. Stubble, which is the lower and stronger part
of the wheat stem, stands better than straw, which is its upper and
weaker portion; to last properly, however, stubble should be cut
immediately after harvest, and should not be left standing, as it
frequently is, till the spring, for then the winter rains, collecting in
its hollow stems, cause it to rot before it is cut. On small buildings
like summer-houses especially, stubble makes a much more compact and
sightly roof than straw.
Thatching is not costly or difficult work. In agricultural districts a
load of stubble--sufficient to thatch three such buildings as the one
illustrated--costs 30s., and a thatcher expects the wages of a
first-class labourer only, not those of a mechanic. He needs an
assistant, whose business it is to straighten the material into
convenient bundles (called "yelvens"), and to supply him as he requires
them. If he is re-thatching an old building, he merely thrusts the ends
of his new material into the old thatch with a wooden spud; but if he is
covering a new roof he sews down his "yelvens" to the laths and rafters
with a huge needle and stout tarred string. He begins at the eaves,
laying as wide a breadth as he can conveniently reach on one side of his
ladder, this breadth being called a "stelch." He works upwards, each
new layer covering the tar-cord which secures that beneath it; and thus
he goes on till he has reached the ridge.
In his second "stelch" he is careful to blend together its edge and the
edge of that already laid, so that no rain may find its way between
them; and in doing this completely lies much of the superiority of good
over bad thatching. When laid, the thatch is smoothed down and
straightened with a gigantic comb, like the head of a large rake, one
end being without teeth, and serving as a handle. In the present
instance, the tops of all the stelches meeting in a point are finished
and capped by the little bundle of thatching material forming the
pinnacle, which is tightly bound round the rod of wood or iron in its
centre.
[Illustration: Fig. 181.--Mosaic Seats for Octagonal Summer-house.]
It is usual to bind thatching down with at least two belts of buckles
and runners. In the summer-house (Fig. 172) two double belts are shown.
The buckles have some resemblance to ladies' hair-pins on a colossal
scale. They are made of slips of withy, twisted and doubled in their
middles and pointed at their ends; the runners are long straight slips
of the same. These latter are laid across the thatch, and the buckles,
being placed over them, are pushed tightly into it--their points being
driven upwards, that wet may not be let into the roof by them. The
short diagonal runners seen in the illustration crossing each other
between the horizontal lines are used in ornamental thatching only, and
are rather for appearance than for use. Lastly, the eaves are cut to
shape, and trimmed with paring-knife and shears.
The roof looks most pretty and cosy within if lined with ling. The ling
is fixed in a way somewhat akin to thatching. A layer is placed along
the bottom opposite to the eaves, and secured by a strip of wood nailed
from rafter to rafter; the layer next above hides this strip, and so the
work is carried on to the apex, where a knot cut from an apple-tree
trunk, a bunch of fir-cones fastened together, or some such matter,
finishes the whole. In districts where ling is not to be had, gorse or
furze in short pieces may serve instead, but stout gloves are required
to handle it; or the ends of fir branches may do, if nothing better
offers.
It is not always easy to decide on the best way of forming a floor.
Boards may look out of place. A pitching of pebbles is more in
character: it is dry and cleanly, and especially if some variety of
colour is obtainable, and the stones are arranged in some geometrical
design, it may add to the ornamental effect. Pebbles are not, however,
pleasing to the feet of those who wear thin shoes. Gravel, where it is
always dry, is apt to become dusty, and to disagree with ladies'
dresses. If, however, gravel should be used, perhaps the best plan to
prevent the rising of damp, and to obviate dust as far as possible, is
to asphalt it: on the foundation of broken stones and a layer of coarse
gravel to put a course of asphalt or of ordinary gas tar, and on this to
sift enough fine _washed_ gravel to hide it. Yet a wood pavement of
small larch poles, cut into 5-or 6-in. billets, and pitched with some
attention to geometrical arrangement, will make the most dry and
comfortable of floors, and one which will not harmonise badly with any
of the decorative work of our summer-house.
The octagonal house illustrated by Fig. 182 is made up of varnished
rustic work. The saplings and twigs should be as straight and as regular
as possible, and divested of their bark.
[Illustration: Fig. 182.--Octagonal Summer-house with Three Gables.]
[Illustration: Fig. 184.--Vertical Section of Octagonal Summer-house
through Lower Part of Door and Sill.]
[Illustration: Fig. 183.--Vertical Section of Octagonal Summer-house
through Side Casement.]
[Illustration: Figs. 185 and 186.--Elevation and Plan of Roof for Octagonal
Summer-house.]
The eight posts are 4 in. in diameter by 6 ft. 8 in. long. The short
sill pieces are also 4 in. in diameter, while the middle rails are 3-1/2
in. in diameter, and the plate is 3 in. by 4-1/2 in. The floor and roof
are constructed from ordinary scantlings.
The posts form a circle 6 ft. 6 in. in diameter. They are spaced about 2
ft. 3 in. apart, except the door-posts, which are 2 ft. 7 in. centres.
Flats may be worked on the posts for the better fitting of the door,
panels, and casements, and the top edge of the sill is also planed flat
to receive the floorboards, and a rebate is formed for the 5/8-in.
matchboard (see Fig. 183).
The sill and middle rails are scribed and stub-tenoned to the posts. The
plate is halved, dowelled, and nailed to the posts. The joists are 2 in.
by 4 in., and are notched to the sills (Fig. 184) and covered with 1-in.
floorboards.
[Illustration: Fig. 187.--Securing Glass to Rustic Casement.]
The roof is formed with three gables, four being deemed unnecessary, as
a summer-house is generally fixed with its back to a shrubbery. Eight
hip rafters are required, and by fixing the heels of each pair of
rafters on the sides of the plate marked 1, 2, 3, and 4 (see Fig. 185)
more space is acquired for the gables. The ridges and valley-pieces of
the gables are attached to a wide batten screwed to the under side of
the hip rafters (see Figs. 185 and 186). Some of the small battens are
omitted from Fig. 185 to give a better view of the gables, etc.
[Illustration: Fig. 188.--Half Front and Half Back View of Door for
Octagonal Summer-house.]
[Illustration: Fig. 189.--Section of Door for Octagonal Summer-house.]
The roof-covering is generally wheat straw, with a top dressing of
either broom or heather. The dark colour of the two latter materials
harmonises much better with a varnished house than does a covering
wholly of straw. The four lower panels are filled in with matchboarding,
which is carried right up to the plate in the three back divisions. The
rustic work, excepting the back panels, is then fitted and nailed.
[Illustration: Fig. 190.--Part Plan of Octagonal Summer-house.]
There are four casement windows, which open outward. A section of
casement and frame enlarged is shown in Fig. 187. A shallow rebate is
formed to receive the leaded lights, which are retained in position with
split bamboo fixed with round-headed brass screws.
[Illustration: Fig. 191.--Horizontal Section through Door Posts.]
The door (Figs. 188 and 189) is 6 ft. 1 in. by 2 ft. 3 in. The rustic
work is overlaid on the frame of the door. The centre of the
diamond-shaped panel is filled with cork. The top panel is glazed with
stained glass. Three butts and a rim lock are fitted on the inside of
the door, and the lower panel is filled with matchboarding.
[Illustration: Fig. 192.--Part Section of Side Panel.]
Some further illustrations may be noted. Fig. 190 is a part plan of the
octagonal summer-house; Fig. 191, horizontal section through door-posts;
Fig. 192, part section of a side panel; Fig. 193, method of fixing plate
to posts; and Fig. 194, finial.
[Illustration: Fig. 193.--Fixing Plate to Posts.]
[Illustration: Fig. 194.--Finial.]
A seat 13 in. wide, supported on wide battens, which in turn rest on
shaped brackets, is fixed at each angle. A sloping back (see Fig. 183)
is fitted, which adds to the general comfort. The decoration of the
inside should now receive attention. The floor may be covered with
linoleum, the seats carpeted or cushioned. The sloping backs of the
seats and the walls will look well if covered with Indian matting or
Japanese leather paper. Split cane or bamboo may be used with good
effect at the joints or angles. The under side of the roof or ceiling
should be first covered by stretching canvas across the rafters, and to
this is attached the decorative material.
The summer-house stands on stone slabs raised about 1 in. above the
ground. The lower ends of the posts are dressed with pitch, or are stood
on sheet lead. The triangular spaces in the gables can be made to open
inwards if desired, and used for ventilation.
INDEX.
Anchoring Foot-bridges, 96
Armchair, 40, 41
Aviary, 83-91
----, Bottom, 86
----, Perches for, 83, 85
----, Sliding Tray for, 90
----, Wiring for, 87, 88
----, Wood for, 83
"Bangles," 30
Bending Wood with Spanish Windlass, 22
Boxes, Window, 19-21
Bracket for Wall, 11, 12
Canopied Garden Seat, 47-51
Canopy for Garden Retreat, 123, 125
---- for Swing, 77-82
Carriage Entrance, 63-65
Chair, Arm, 40, 41
Chairs and Seats, 40-51
Collar-posts, 114, 115, 140
Cottage Porch, 76
Door of Tool House, 110
Easel, Mitred Joint for, 13
----, for Photographs, 13-16
----, Stain for, 15, 16
Elevated Foot-bridges, 97
Entrance, Carriage, 63-65
Fenced Seat for Swing, 82
Fences, 57
Fire-screen, 13
Flower-holder, Tripod, 16
Flower-pot Stand, 27, 28, 35
Foot-bridges, 92
----, Anchoring, 96
----, Elevated, 97
----, Girders for, 94, 95
Gables to Octagonal Summer-house, 141, 150-158
Garden Gate, 52-56, 62
---- Plant Tub, 31, 32
---- Retreat, 123-125
---- Seat with Canopy, 47-51
---- Seats, 41-51
---- Snuggery, 112-123
---- ----, Collar-posts for, 114
---- ----, Door for, 116, 117
---- ----, Joists for, 114
---- ----, Pillars, Caps for, 120
---- ----, Rafters for, 116
---- ----, Roof, Boarding, 120
---- ---- ----, Coverings for, 121, 122
---- ----, Rustic Pillars of, 115, 120
---- ----, Walls, Non-conducting, 117
Garden, Tool House for (see Tool House)
---- Trellis with Seats and Gate, 58-62
Gates and Fences, 52-65
Girders for Rustic Footbridges, 94, 95
Grape Culture, Glazed Verandah for, 104
Hall Stand, 16-18
Hazel Rods for Rustic Mosaic Work, 144
Hexagonal Table, 38, 39
---- Vase, 29, 30
House, Tool, Door for, 110
----, ----, Doorposts for, 109
----, ----, Folding Seat for, 111, 112
----, ----, Pilaster for, 110
----, ----, Plan of, 108, 109
----, ----, "Rough Planks" for, 106
Joint, Mitred, 13
Joists for Garden Snuggery, 114
Lean-to Summer-house, 126-134
---- ---- ----, Lining for Walls of, 129
---- ---- ----, Mosaic Work for Walls of, 130
---- ---- ----, Roof of, 130
Lining Roof with Ling, 150
---- Summer-house Walls, 129
Mitred Joint, 13
Mosaic Work, 144-146
---- ----, Hazel Rods for, 144
---- ----, Withy for, 146
---- ----, for Summer-house Walls, 130
Octagonal Summer-house, 138-158
---- ---- ----, Collar-posts for, 140
---- ---- ----, Gable for, 141
---- ---- ----, Ground Plan of, 140
---- ---- ----, Roof for, 147
---- ---- ----, Table for, 143
---- ---- ----, Thatched, 138-150
---- ---- ----, Three-gabled, 150-158
---- ---- ----, Walls for, 141
Pedestal for Sundial, 35
Pilaster for Tool House, 110
Pillars of Garden Snuggery, 115, 120
Plant Stand, Rectangular, 34
---- Tub for Garden, 31, 32
---- Vase, Large, 30, 31
---- ----, Ornamental, 33, 34
Porches, 71-76
Rectangular Garden Plant Stand, 34
Retreat, Garden, 123-125
Roof for Garden Snuggery, 120-122
---- for Lean-to Summerhouse, 130
----, Materials for, 102
---- for Tennis Lawn Shelter, 138
---- of Tool House, 110
---- for Verandah, 100
Rosery Walk, 66-70
"Rough Planks" for Tool House, 106
Seats and Chairs, 40-51
Shelter for Tennis Lawn, 135
"Slabs," Fixing, 107, 108
Snuggery, Garden, 112-123
----, ----, Collar-posts for 114, 115
----, ----, Door for, 116, 117
----, ----, Joists for, 114
----, ----, Pillars for, 120
----, ----, Rafters for, 116
----, ----, Roof for, 120-122
----, ----, ---- Coverings for, 121, 122
----, ----, Rustic Pillars of, 115
----, ----, Walls of, 117
Spanish Windlass for Bending Wood, 22
Stain for Easel, 15, 16
Stand, Flower, 27, 28
----, Flower-pot, in imitation of Bamboo, 35
----, Hall, 16-18
----, Rectangular Plant, 34
"Stelch" for Thatching, 148
Stool, 18, 19
Summer-house, Lean-to, 126-134
---- ----, ----, Lining for Walls, 129
---- ----, ----, Mosaic Work for Walls of, 130
---- ----, ----, Roof of, 130
---- ----, Octagonal, 138-158
---- ----, ----, Collar-posts for, 140
---- ----, ----, Floor for, 150
---- ----, ----, Gable for, 141
---- ----, ----, Ground Plan of, 140
---- ----, ----, Roof for, 147
Summer-house, Octagonal, Table for, 143, 144-147
---- ----, ----, Thatched Roof of, 147
---- ----, ----, with Three Gables, 150-158
---- ----, ----, Walls for, 141
---- ----, ----, Windows for, 142
---- ----, Thatched Octagonal, 138-150
Swing, Canopy for, 77-82
----, Fenced Seat for, 82
Table for Octagonal Summer-house, 143-147
----, Hexagon, 38, 39
----, Square, 36-38
Tables, 36-39
Tennis Lawn Shelter, 135-138
---- ---- ----, Roof for, 138
Thatched Octagonal Summer-house, 138-150
Thatching, Cost of, 148
----, "Stelch," 148
----, Roof of Octagonal Summer-house, 147-150
----, "Yelvens," 148
Tool House, 106-112
---- ----, Door, 110
---- ----, Doorposts, 109, 110
---- ----, Folding Seat for, 111, 112
---- ----, Pilaster, 110
---- ----, Roof, 110
---- ----, "Rough Planks" for, 106
Trellis, Garden, with Seats and Gate, 58-62
Vase, Hexagonal, 29, 30
----, Plant, 30, 31, 33, 34
----, Square, 28, 29
----, on Tripod Stand, 22-27
Verandahs, 98-105
----, for Grape Culture, 104
----, Open, 104
----, Posts Supporting, 98, 99
----, Rafters for, 100
----, Roof for, 100
----, ---- Materials for, 102
Walk, Rosery, 66-70
Wall Bracket, 10, 11
Windlass, Spanish, 22
Window Boxes, 19-21
Wiring Aviary, 87, 88
Withy for Rustic Mosaic Work, 144
Wood Bending with Spanish Windlass, 22
---- for Rustic Work, 9
"Yelvens" in Thatching, 148
PRINTED BY CASSELL AND COMPANY, LTD., LUDGATE HILL, LONDON, E.C.