It appears that foreign emissaries at St. Louis had sent word to the

authorities of New Spain of Pike's contemplated expedition, and steps

were immediately taken to defeat its objects. The command of the Spanish

force was assigned to Lieutenant Don Facundo Malgares, an officer of

reputation in Indian warfare, who collected one hundred dragoons and

five hundred militia at Santa Fé, N. M. Each man was mounted, had three

led animals and six months' supply of ammunition. First they descended

the Red River about seven hundred miles, with the expectation of meeting

and turning back Pike, but learned that no force had passed that way.

The Spanish commander, after holding a council with the Comanches for

the purpose of winning them over to the interests of New Spain, then

turned north to the Arkansas. Here Malgares put in camp two hundred and

forty of his men, with the worn-out and disabled stock, and with the

rest proceeded to the Pawnee village, where he distributed medals,

Spanish flags, etc., and after prejudicing them against Americans and

drawing the Pawnee chiefs as closely to Spain as possible returned to

Santa Fé, arriving there in October. This armed invasion of the

acknowledged territory of the United States and deliberate tampering

with the Indian tribes probably arose from the strained relations

between the two countries, which nearly resulted in hostilities on the

frontiers of Texas and Orleans territory in 1806, when the local forces

tacitly agreed to regard the Sabine River as the temporary boundary.

Pike first made the Osage and Kaws smoke the pipe of peace and then held

a council with the Pawnees. These latter Indians, strongly impressed by

the grand show made by the Spanish cavalry, regarded with doubt the

small force of Americans. What Pike lacked in numbers and display, he

made up in boldness of demands and in display of self-confidence. He

obliged them to take down the Spanish flag and hoist the American

ensign, but gave them permission to retain the foreign flag for

protection if the Spaniards should return.

The chief, however, insisted that the Americans must turn back, and said

that he would resist any advance by force of arms. Captain Pike, already

indignant at the unauthorized raid of the Spaniards into the territory

of the United States, listened with impatience to this threat, and

answered that so far he had not seen any blood on his path, but the

Pawnees must know that the young warriors of their great American father

were not women, to be turned back by words; that they were men, well

armed and prepared as braves to sell their lives dearly; that they

should go on, and if the Pawnees opposed, the great American father

would send other warriors to avenge the dead. This bold talk had its

effect, and the onward march met with no active opposition.

Striking southwest, and following as well as he could the broad trail

left by the Spaniards, Pike reached Arkansas, where he stopped long

enough to build canoes, in which Lieutenant Wilkinson with five soldiers

and two Osages descended the river. This officer reached the post of

Arkansas on January 6, 1807, after a journey marked by many hardships,

but no great dangers.

Captain Pike and Doctor Robinson pursued their route up the Arkansas

with the party, now reduced to fourteen soldiers and the interpreter,

Vasquez. On the 2d of November, they fell in with a large herd of wild

horses, beautiful bays, blacks, and grays, whom they were unable to

capture even with their fleetest coursers. Here also the buffalo were

present in numbers beyond imagination, as Pike thought.

The 15th of November was a marked day, for Pike records that "at two

o'clock in the afternoon I thought I could distinguish a mountain to our

right, which appeared like a small blue cloud.... In half an hour they

appeared in full view before us. When our small party arrived on the

hill they with one accord gave three cheers to the Mexican mountains."

The peak, first seen by Pike, remained in view from that day to the

27th of January, and in eternal commemoration of the hardships and

dangers of the discoverer in that journey fittingly bears in our day the

name of Pike's Peak.

Here they first strikingly realized the transparency and purity of the

mountain air, which to the eye quite annihilates distance. He writes:

"Marched at our usual hour, pushed with an idea of arriving at the

mountains, but found at night no visible difference in their appearance

from what we did yesterday." It may be added that eight days' march

brought the party only to the base of the mountains.

On November 22d he fell in with an unsuccessful war-party, composed of

sixty Pawnees, returning from a foray on the Comanches. The savages at

first acted in a friendly manner, but receiving some small presents,

demanded ammunition, corn, blankets, kettles, and indeed everything they

saw. Being refused they threw away in contempt the articles given. Pike

ordered the horses packed, when the Pawnees encircled the small party

and commenced stealing everything they could, when Pike commanded his

men to stand to arms, and to separate themselves from the savages. This

done an order was given to kill the first Indian who touched any piece

of baggage, when the Pawnees, realizing that further misconduct meant

fight, filed off and allowed them to depart.

The party was now at the present city of Las Animas, where the Arkansas

forks, and as the Spanish troops followed the main stream instead of

the Purgatory, Pike took the same route. At the Herfuano he decided to

put the main party in camp while he explored the surrounding country, so

he threw up a small breastwork, opening on the river, somewhat to the

east of the present city of Pueblo. Starting to ascend the north fork

(the main Arkansas) to the high point of a blue mountain, which he

conceived would be one day's march, it took two days to reach the base

and more than another day to reach its summit. He records that his men

had no stockings, were clad only in light summer overalls, in every way

unprovided for the inclement surroundings, the snow to their hips, the

temperature nine degrees below freezing, while in forty-eight hours the

four men had for food only one partridge and a piece of deer's rib, but

adds that they were amply compensated for their toil and hardships by

the sublimity of the view--an unbounded prairie overhung with clouds.

The summit of Grand (Pike's) Peak, bare of vegetation, snow-covered, and

double the height of the peak ascended, he thought no human being could

then have ascended, even had it been near instead of a day's march to

its base.

The December journey up the narrow, cliff-bound valley of the Arkansas

is a continuous record of hardship and suffering. The horses with

difficulty found grazing in the snow-covered valley, while the fearless

ravens lighting on the men seized meat from them, and, despite the

kicking and plunging of the horses swooped down on them and picked

their sore backs till they bled. The thermometer fell to thirty-eight

degrees below freezing, while the badness of the trail obliged the party

to cross and recross the ice-filled river, from which several froze

their feet badly. Had the weather continued so cold "some of the men,"

says Pike, "must have perished, for they had no winter clothing; I wore

myself cotton overalls."

Here the returning Spanish expeditionary column under Malgares had

turned south, skirting the mountains until it reached a practicable pass

through the Cimarron range to Taos; but the main Spanish trail failing

in the snow-covered plain Pike pursued a side trail to the northwest,

and crossing a dividing ridge came on an ice-covered stream, which, to

his surprise, ran to the northeast, and proved, as he thought, to be the

head-waters of the Platte, the south fork rising in the South Park,

where he then was. Here he found evidences of the park having been

lately frequented by large parties of Indians. Beyond this he doubtless

crossed into the Middle Park, and saw the head-waters of the Colorado

Grande, and so was the second party to reach from the Atlantic

tide-water the sources of streams draining into the Pacific.

Pike was now lost in the maze of snow-covered mountains under most

adverse circumstances, as he recites: "Eight hundred miles from the

frontiers of our country; not one person clothed for the winter, many

without blankets, having been obliged to cut them up for socks, etc.;

laying down at night on the snow or wet ground, one side burning, while

the other was pierced with cold; endeavoring to make of raw buffalo-hide

a miserable substitute for shoes;" the men falling sick, and, finally,

the country so broken and precipitous, that even the Indian horse could

not carry a pack, and three animals were lost from falls and bruises.

Pike was disconsolate, but not discouraged. He sent ahead the

interpreter and two soldiers travelling light to find a way out, while,

making five small sleds to carry the baggage and be dragged by the men,

he followed. Struggling on, nearly perishing from cold, and almost

famished for food, the 5th of January found Pike, greatly to his

mortification, in the same old valley of the Arkansas, in sight of his

camp of December 10th. Realizing that he could expect nothing further

from his few worn-out horses, and burning with mortification at his

egregious error in considering the Arkansas as the Red, Pike decided to

try on foot that journey which had failed on horseback. He at once

strengthened the small fort, left therein heavy baggage, horses, etc.,

with the interpreter and one man, while with the rest he started to

cross the mountains with packs in search of the Red River, where he

intended to send back a party to guide the pack-train to it. This in the

belief that the Red River had its sources to the southwest, instead of

in its true location hundreds of weary miles to the southeast.

Humboldt's map of New Spain, compiled from data in the City of Mexico in

1804, plainly indicates that the Spanish labored under the same error

as Pike, they also thinking the sources of the Red River to be some two

or three hundred miles northwest of their true position. This map shows

that although the main Red was well known, yet the head-waters of the

Canadian were believed to be, and were charted as, the northwest

extension of the Red to within fifty miles of the place where Pike was

later arrested. It may be added, as showing the extent of geographical

knowledge in New Spain at that time, that the upper Arkansas was known

under the name Rio Napestle, although its connection with the lower

Arkansas was only suspected. The Pecos, Colorado, Trinity, and Sabine

Rivers were also known, but the Llano Estacado, of Texas, and the plains

of Colorado, Indian Territory, and Kansas, though they had been crossed

here and there prior to 1805, were practically unknown lands, given over

to the buffalo and savages, who were popularly and correctly associated

with them.

Impressed with the belief that he finally was on the right track,

Captain Pike, on January 14, 1806, started on the eventful journey that

was to carry him into New Spain, and lead him into the hands of the

Spaniards he was charged to avoid. They marched in heavy order, every

one--man, doctor, and commander--carrying forty-five pounds of regular

baggage, besides arms, ammunition, and such food as he thought proper;

the average burden being seventy pounds per man, to be carried over a

snow-covered and mountainous country.

The general direction followed was to the southwest, and fifty miles

were made good in three days. The fourth day all wet their feet crossing

a stream, and before fire could be had no less than nine of the men,

including the two hunters, had their feet badly frozen; the temperature

fell that night to forty-three degrees below the freezing point, while

the lack of game left them without food. The next morning two men went

hunting in one direction, while Pike and the doctor went in another. The

latter two wounded a buffalo three times, but he escaped, when, says

Pike: "We concluded it was useless to go home to add to the general

gloom, and went among the rocks, where we encamped and sat up all night;

from intense cold it was impossible to sleep, hungry and without cover."

The next morning they struck a herd and wounded several buffalo, all of

which escaped. "By this time," continues Pike, "I had become extremely

weak and faint, being the fourth day since we had received sustenance.

We were inclining our course to a point of woods, determined to remain

absent and die by ourselves rather than to return to our camp and behold

the misery of our poor lads, when we discovered a gang of buffalo."

Fortunately they killed one and returned at once to camp with a heavy

load of meat, Pike arriving in such a state of exhaustion that he almost

fell fainting as he dropped his burden. "The men," he adds, had "not a

frown, nor a desponding eye--yet not a mouthful had they ate for four

days." It was found that two soldiers were so badly frozen that it was

impossible for them to proceed, and indeed it was probable that one

would lose his feet. To remain was apparent death for all, so Pike

decided to march, and left the two men, John Sparks and Thomas

Dougherty, provided with ammunition, and given all the buffalo meat

except one meal for the marching column. It was like parting with the

dying. Pike bade them face their possible fate with soldierly fortitude,

assured them that relief would be sent as soon as possible, and then

they parted, as we may well believe such comrades would, with

tears--more, doubtless, from those who marched than from those who

remained behind.

The main party under Pike struggled on over the barren, snow-covered

mountains, and after nine days, two of which without food, a march of

ninety-five miles (from the vicinity of Saguache to the neighborhood of

Del Norte) brought them quite exhausted to the banks of the Rio Grande,

which was, however, hailed as the long-expected Red River.

Descending the stream some distance, Pike established a picketed

stockade, surrounded it by a water ditch and made it quite impregnable

to any ordinary attack. On February 7th Corporal Jackson and four men

were sent back across the mountain, to bring in the baggage and see if

the frozen men were yet able to travel. The same day Dr. Robinson left

the expedition to visit Santa Fé, ostensibly carrying the papers in a

Spanish claim, but in reality to gain a knowledge of the country, the

prospects of trade, the military force, etc.--in short, as a secret

agent.

While Pike was strengthening his position and securing game, the party

returned with word that the frozen men could not yet travel, and

possibly might be crippled for life. Volunteers were called for, as the

only method now was to send to the fort in the forks of the Arkansas,

(near Pueblo) where the recuperated horses and the rear-guard were

available to bring over the snow-clad mountains the helpless soldiers.

Regarding this last journey Pike writes: "I must here remark the effect

of habit, discipline, and example in two soldiers (Sergeant William E.

Meek and private Theodore Miller). Soliciting a command of more than one

hundred and eighty miles over two great ridges of mountains covered with

snow, inhabited by bands of unknown savages, these men volunteered it,

with others, and were chosen; for which they thought themselves highly

honored."

The steadfast endurance and unfailing fortitude which enabled Pike's men

to withstand and overcome the horrors and hardships of famine, frost,

and fatigue, form but a single page of the annals of our army. Rarely

has the American soldier failed, in war or peace, for military or civic

ends, to give to the accomplishment of any important trust his utmost

endeavor, subordinating thereto comfort, health, and life, lavishing

thereon resources of helpfulness which have so often crowned with

success the most hopeless of enterprises. If the American has

individuality, assertiveness, and self-reliance, he has also, in its

good time and place, a spirit of obedience, subordination, and

solidarity which make him the typical soldier.

On February 16th, Pike was visited by a Spanish dragoon and an Indian;

and some ten days later by a Spanish officer and fifty dragoons, by whom

he was escorted to Santa Fé, where he was examined by the Spanish

Governor, Don Allencaster, on March 3d. Pike had been informed by the

Spanish lieutenant that he would be conducted to the head-waters of the

Red River, but at Santa Fé he learned that there was no intention of

permitting a geographical exploration of these unknown regions. Pike was

astonished to find in Santa Fé an American, a Kentuckian, named James

Pursley, from Bairdstown, who had made a hunting trip to the head of the

Osage in 1802, and in 1803 made a journey up the Missouri with a French

trader. Sent on a trading trip on the plains with a roving band of

Kioways, the hunting party was attacked and driven by the Sioux into the

parks of the Rocky Mountains, at the head of the Platte and Arkansas,

where Pike had seen traces of the band and their stock. From this point

the Indians sent Pursley and two of their number to Santa Fé to trade.

Here they arrived in June, 1805, eight months before Pike, and Pursley

decided to remain.

Governor Allencaster decided to send Pike and his party to Chihuahua.

Accompanied by Robinson, who rejoined him at Albuquerque, Pike passed

down the valley of the Rio Grande, through El Paso, under escort of the

gallant and courteous Malgares, and was taken before Salcedo, the

Commandant-General of Chihuahua, on April 2d. Leaving here late that

month, still under escort, he crossed the Del Norte on June 1st, passed

through San Antonio, and on July 1st was within the United States, at

Natchitoches, when he exclaimed "Language cannot express the gayety of

my heart, when I once more beheld the standard of my country!"

It is astonishing what an amount of valuable and accurate information

concerning New Spain was collected by Captain Pike during his journey

through the country. If he had been permitted to return by the way of

Red River his stock of knowledge would have been vastly inferior. His

journey was tedious, unpleasant, and humiliating, but Pike knew how to

make the best of the situation, and in so doing justified the confidence

of his superiors in sending him on so dangerous and important a service.

His field notes in New Spain were made by Pike with great difficulty, as

the Governor gave orders to Malgares not to permit the making of

astronomical observations nor the taking of notes, Pike was determined,

however, to make the best of his opportunities, and so recorded his

observations while making pretext to halt, and kept his boy as a vedette

while writing. Later he feared the loss of such notes as he had already

made, when, he continues: "Finding that a new species of discipline had

taken place, and that the suspicions of my friend Malgares were much

more acute than ever, I conceived it necessary to take some steps to

secure the notes I had taken, which were clandestinely acquired. In the

night I arose, and, after making all my men clean their pieces well, I

took my small books and rolled them up in small rolls, and tore a fine

shirt to pieces, and wrapped it around the papers and put them down in

the barrels of the guns, until we just left room for the tompions, which

were then carefully put in; the remainder we secured about our bodies

under our shirts. This was effected without discovery and without

suspicions."

Pike draws a lively and striking picture of the manners, morals,

customs, and politics of the people of New Spain, whom he characterized

as surprisingly brave, and in hospitality, generosity, and sobriety

unsurpassed by any other people, but as lacking in patriotism,

enterprise, and independence of soul.

The subsequent career of Captain Pike was short and brilliant. He

received the thanks of the Government, had his zeal, perseverance, and

intelligence formally recognized by a committee of the House of

Representatives, rose to be major, lieutenant-colonel, and

deputy-quartermaster-general in rapid succession; in the reorganization

of the army in 1812 was made colonel, and in the following year was

appointed brigadier-general a few weeks before his death, at the capture

of York (Toronto), Canada.

The day before he left for the attack on York (Toronto), General Pike

wrote to his father: "I embark to-morrow in the fleet at Sackett's

Harbor at the head of 1,500 choice troops, on a secret expedition.

Should I be the happy mortal destined to turn the scale of war, will you

not rejoice, oh my father? May Heaven be propitious, and smile on the

cause of my country. But if I am destined to fall, may my fall be like

Wolfe's--to sleep in the arms of victory." His wish was prophetic.

The orders issued to his troops indicate the high professional honor

which ever characterized Pike's life. In part they ran thus: "It is

expected that every corps will be mindful of the honor of American arms

and the disgraces which have recently tarnished our arms, and endeavor,

by a cool and determined discharge of their duty, to support the one and

wipe out the other. The property of the unoffending citizens of Canada,"

he continues, "must be held sacred; and any soldier who shall so far

neglect the honor of his profession as to be guilty of plundering the

inhabitants, shall, if convicted, be punished with death. Courage and

bravery in the field do not more distinguish the soldier than humanity

after victory; and whatever examples the savage allies of our enemies

may have given us, the general confidently hopes that the blood of an

unresisting enemy will never stain the weapon of any soldier of his

column."

Owing to the sickness of General Dearborn, Pike took command of the land

forces, and on April 27, 1813, carried the outer battery by assault, and

having silenced the fire of the main work was awaiting a white flag

when the main magazine was exploded. Pike, who had a minute before

assisted in making a wounded soldier comfortable, was fatally injured,

but his martial spirit impelled him to yet encourage his troops. A

soldier to the last, he smiled as the standard of the enemy was handed

to him, and, putting it under his head, died serenely.

Laboring under the disadvantage of insufficient instruction in youth,

Pike supplemented his deficiencies by assiduous application, and his

journal shows him studying French and other languages in the interludes

of his desperate journeys in the Northwest and Southwest. Simple-minded

and warm-hearted, he won the devotion of his men without relaxing

soldierly habits or impairing discipline. He was intelligent,

indefatigable, brave, capable of great endurance, fertile in expedients

and never distrustful of his own capabilities or of the ultimate success

of his undertakings. His early death precluded judgment as to his

qualities as a general, but certainly he had the power of origination,

organization, and administration which are essentials to military

success.

It should be recorded of his explorations that, taking into

consideration his small force, and almost inadequate means, no other man

ever contributed to the geographical knowledge of the United States an

amount comparable to that which the world owes to the heroic efforts and

indomitable perseverance of Zebulon Montgomery Pike.

FOOTNOTE:

[1] He obtained his captaincy in August, 1806.

VII.

CHARLES WILKES,

THE DISCOVERER OF THE ANTARCTIC CONTINENT.

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