fashion has stood still here for many years. The custom is universal
throughout Holland for the natives of the different provinces, as
Volendam, Marken, Brock, etc., to wear in public, and especially when
travelling, the costume peculiar to their own province, and it is by no
means uncommon to see many odd and quaintly dressed women in close
proximity to one another, each one representing by some peculiarity, a
different province or section of the country. For instance; when I see
the skirt of blue homespun made in full folds, and worn with a jacket of
striped red and white, and the peaked bonnet trimmed with red and white
tape, I know that the wearer is a native of the island of Marken. These
various costumes, all gay and picturesque, are the source of great
pleasure to the stranger, and add new life and interest to his travels
in this country.
Here also we notice the huge, powerful draught horses, with their
massive hoofs and shaggy legs, drawing strange looking wagons laden with
curious boxes and furniture. The wooden shoes worn by the working
classes also attract our attention and many other novel sights and
customs give us the impression that we have chartered one of Jules
Verne's original conveyances and wandered off to a country not located
on this earthly planet.
Wishing to purchase some bonbons, we enter a candy shop and ask the fair
maid behind the counter to put up a pound of this confection: our
amazement is great when she replies that this form of sweetmeat is not
to be found in Rotterdam. "What," I exclaim, "no sweets for the sweet
girls of Holland?" "No, only chocolate candy." And this indeed is the
only kind of bonbon to be had in Rotterdam. The sweet chocolate is
moulded into various shapes. It is delicious, excelling in purity and
flavor that which is made in any other part of the world.
[Illustration: "In many cases the balconies of residences overhang the
water." (_See page 114._)]
Our guide is very attentive and energetic; and anxious to show us
everything of interest about the town, he conducts us through the
numerous market-places. At one of these some amusement is excited by my
photographs and sketches of the market people and the buyers. The market
man stands beside his wares with a happy, good-natured face that seems
to say that the cares and worries of this world affect him not at
all. The whole scene is like some vividly colored picture, and I think
as I look upon it that this life bears with it pleasures of which we of
the outside world know nothing. Apparently the people of this country
possess the rare blessing of contentment with the lot which God has
bestowed upon them.
An old man and woman are particularly anxious for me to photograph their
daughter, who they assure me is the belle of the market. This assertion,
I think, may be true without much compliment to the girl, for a homelier
set of human beings it would not be easy to find. After some
preliminaries relating to posing and keeping back the curious country
people who crowd closely around me and the camera, I finally succeed in
making a good picture of the Belle of the Rotterdam Market, with her
father and mother on either side. They are all as proud as Punch of this
performance, and seem quite "set up" by the occasion.
One day being near to a manufacturer of the wooden shoes worn by the
peasants, our party of four slips within the shop, and are fitted after
trying on at least a dozen pairs, to the apparent delight of Meinherr.
It is necessary to wear a heavy woollen stocking to secure comfort in
these shoes. The ordinary American stocking would soon be rubbed into
holes by the hard surface of the shoe. Indeed it is quite a feat to be
able to walk rapidly and gracefully in this clumsy footwear.
Over many of the watery streets of the city drawbridges are built, which
are opened at intervals to allow the streams of boats to pass. The
incessant blowing of a trumpet or horn similar to that of the tally-ho
notifies the watchman of the approach of boats. This sound may be heard
at all hours of the day or night in any part of the city, and is at
first, especially at night, rather disturbing to the stranger, but like
other annoyances which are inevitable, the exercise of a little patience
and endurance will enable one to eventually like the trumpet, or else to
become as deaf to them as old "Dame Eleanor Spearing."
I know of no place in which the lover of the antique, whether he is a
collector of ancient coins, jewels, china, furniture, or a seeker after
rare curios and relics, can experience greater delight than in this old
city of Rotterdam. Here are hundreds of shops, whose proprietors devote
their whole lives to the accumulation of such objects, and it is
needless to say that their stock is rich and unique, and possesses
abundant variety. We visit a number of these establishments, and I
succeed in gathering up a large assortment of old swords which please my
fancy. One of these is said to have been owned by Christopher
Columbus(?). The shopkeeper vouches for the truth of the statement, and
as I am willing to believe it, in the absence of proof to the contrary,
I label it as the sword of the great navigator who added a new
hemisphere to our globe. The remaining swords have been the personal
property of lords, generals or other warlike celebrities, and again I
take comfort in the thought that if the records are not truthful, it is
a minor consideration when taking into account the moderate prices which
I have paid for the articles.
The artist will find in Rotterdam a wealth of material both for figure
subjects, and odd and picturesque bits of landscape. Here too are
wonderful interiors, with all the quaint associations of a bygone age.
Here are scenes on the canals, the bridges, and the ever changing life
on the river. By all means visit Rotterdam if you desire original
studies for your sketch book.
[Illustration: "The belle of the Market." (_See page 119._)]
A City of Many Islands.
_A City of Many Islands._
Amsterdam--The People of Holland---Amstel River--Merry
Excursionists--Interesting Institutions--Origin of the City--Source of
Prosperity--A Cousin to Venice--Ninety Islands--Beams and
Gables--Block and Tackle--Old Salesmen--Street
Markets--Haarlem--Railway Travel at Home and Abroad--Ancient
Buildings--Historic Associations--In the Canal--Groote Kerk--The Great
Organ--Picturesque Subjects--Zandvoort--Eau de Cologne--The
Beach--Dutch Sail Boats--Seamen--Hooded Chairs--Peddlers--Music in
Holland and Germany--Gypsies--We Meet an Artist--Hospitality--A
Banquet.
Amsterdam, the commercial capital of Holland, is but a short ride from
Rotterdam, and like all the other "dam" cities of this region, possesses
many attractions of its own, besides being the centre or hub from which
radiate trips to many picturesque towns and other points of interest.
These irreverent sounding terminations do not by any means imply that
the cities so called are steeped in wickedness and crime. On the
contrary they are remarkable as being towns of exceptional purity and
honesty, possessing churches, libraries and schools which bear witness
to the good and loving aspirations of a conscientious Christian people.
The natives of Holland are kind and peaceable in disposition, and fair
in their dealings with one another. They are personally very attractive
on account of the natural simplicity of their everyday lives, and the
high principle of honor and morality upon which they conduct their
business transactions. They train their children in accordance with
these principles, and the visitor cannot fail to appreciate their
virtues, and rest securely in the confidence that he will receive fair
and courteous treatment from both young and old.
The Amstel River, viewed from the windows of our hotel, presents a
beautiful picture. Upon the opposite bank are handsome residences, of
substantial, square and regular architecture, while in slow, calm motion
on the river may be seen boats of every description, many of them with a
cargo of human beings; and the gay national flags and other brilliant
bunting floating in the fresh breeze have a gala appearance as the boats
steam or row past our hotel. Merry songs and happy laughter drift back
to our ears, and it seems as though we have at last reached a land
exempt from the cares and sorrows of the everyday world.
The Dutch people are as a class happy and satisfied, with a cheerful
manner, and a cordial and genuine welcome.
Amsterdam is indeed a great city, with numberless points of interest for
the visitor, without mentioning its museums, art galleries, theatres,
libraries, churches and other institutions; its botanical garden,
university, parks and tramways.
The town was founded by Gysbrecht II., Lord of Amstel, who built a
castle here in 1204, and constructed the dam to which it owes its name.
In the fourteenth century it began to increase in importance, becoming
at that time a refuge for the merchants who were banished from Brabant.
At the close of the sixteenth century, when Antwerp was ruined by the
Spanish war, and many merchants, manufacturers, artists and other men of
talent and enterprise fled from the horrors of the Inquisition to
Holland, Amsterdam nearly doubled its population, and the conclusion of
peace in 1609, and the establishment of the East India Company combined
to raise the town within a short time to the rank of the greatest
commercial city in Europe. Its population in 1890, excluding the
suburbs, was 406,300.
Amsterdam is generally at first sight compared with Venice, which it
certainly resembles in two points. Both cities are intersected by
numerous canals, and the buildings of both are constructed upon piles;
but there the similarity ends. There are wide, bustling thoroughfares in
Amsterdam, traversed by wagons and drays which could have no place in
the city of gondolas and ancient palaces.
[Illustration: "The Amstel River." (_See page 128._)]
The canals, or Grachten, which intersect Amsterdam in every direction,
are of various sizes, and divide the city into ninety islands; and these
are connected by nearly three hundred bridges. There are four principal,
or grand canals, which are in broad, handsome avenues, bordered with
trees, and with sidewalks for pedestrians. The other canals intersect
these and serve to connect one part of the town with another, as short
streets cross wide highways and main thoroughfares in other places. Rows
of fine-looking houses line the banks of these watercourses, and as all
the buildings are constructed on foundations of piles, the old quotation
of "a city whose inhabitants dwell on the tops of trees like rooks," is
not without considerable truth. The quaint old architecture of the
stores and houses is of itself a source of great interest to the
visitor. We have seen so many pictures of these odd gabled and tiled
roofs overhanging the windows, that at first one has the impression of
awakening from a dream to its reality. Remarkable order and
cleanliness prevail everywhere, adding to this feeling, for the wear and
tear of daily living do not seem to affect the almost immaculate
atmosphere of the place. Windows are as clear as crystal, and the
woodwork of the houses everywhere looks as if freshly scrubbed and
sanded. Projecting from the attic windows of many buildings may be seen
a pole or beam, from which hangs a block and tackle used to hoist
furniture and other heavy or bulky articles from the sidewalk to the
upper stories. These things are not carried up the winding stairway, as
with us, scratching and defacing the walls and paint, as well as the
furniture, and resulting in much vexation and the utterance of unseemly
swear words. All this is avoided by the methods of the people of
Holland, and the citizens of America would profit by adopting them, if
only as a means of avoiding the temptation to express one's feelings in
violent and irreligious language.
Among the thousand and one attractions of this interesting city, the
curious-looking old junks, or salesmen and women stationed at various
points on the streets, are not unworthy the notice of the photographer
or artist. Their wares consist of old scrap iron, rusty saws, perhaps
toothless, hammers without handles, nails of every size, files, beds
and other articles of furniture apparently dating back to scriptural
ages. Such markets, where odds and ends of every imaginable kind are
gathered into piles and sold to the poorer classes of the people, seem
to be sanctioned by the authorities, and sometimes present a very active
and thriving appearance. They are not unpicturesque in their odd
combinations of color, attitude and expression.
The great windmills along the canal, with their huge revolving arms, and
the boats with their loads of merchandise; the peasant women with their
quaint costumes and elaborate yet funny head-dresses; the tall Dutch
houses with their red and yellow brick fronts and lofty tiles and
gables, the beautiful avenues of elms along the grand Grachten, the vast
docks, with forests of masts, and countless ships from all parts of the
world, and products of every country, the wonderful dikes, all form a
succession of views of charming variety and individual beauty that are
fascinating to the newcomer.
Many short trips may be taken from here either by boat or train, and he
who would fill his portfolio with quaint and lovely pictures, will find
his enthusiasm aroused, no matter in which direction he may venture, or
whether his expedition be on land or water. Interesting localities are
always within easy reach, and the moderate rate for transportation and
accommodation render all points accessible to the traveller whose purse
is of the most slender dimensions.
Take with me the trip to Haarlem and Zandvoort. Proceeding to the
Central Railroad Station, we purchase tickets which entitle us to the
short ride in the usual compartment car. And here one may note the
difference between railroad travel throughout England and on the
Continent, and the American system. Instead of having one car into which
passengers of all kinds, black and white, rich and poor, merchants and
emigrants crowd as in free America, European trains are divided into
three sections, viz: first, second and third class. Although the more
general experience is that the second class compartments are quite as
comfortable, clean and attractive as the first class compartments, the
price of the latter is nearly double that of the former, and the fare of
the second class nearly double that of the third. In many sections of
England, Scotland and Germany, the third class accommodations are by no
means unpleasant: but do not take third class tickets when travelling in
Ireland, for should you do so, it is more than probable that just as you
are waxing into lofty enthusiasm over the romantic and beautiful
scenery around you, Paddy with his wife and progeny, several pigs, and
whatever other small live stock can be conveniently or inconveniently
dragged along, will be planted by your side, or roam about you in such
unpleasant proximity as to change all your romantic visions into the
most unromantic prose.
Here we are in the quaint old town of Haarlem, famous in past years for
its tulips, and now noted for its well-kept gardens and avenues, as well
as for the curious old houses of brick and stone which are the delight
of all the visitors to Holland. These lofty steeples and rows of ancient
and picturesque houses have looked down upon many generations, and
witnessed scenes of suffering and endurance that have been registered on
the pages of history; for like Leyden, Haarlem sustained a long siege
during the war for independence, and stories of the heroism of both men
and women have come down through the long centuries to tell us of
experiences of which these ancient structures, stately and silent, give
no sign. So well cared for are the old buildings, that one can readily
imagine that they will appear as they do to-day for many centuries to
come.
How we enjoy this historic old place! The very air we breathe seems
laden with odors of the past. The flower-beds are wonderfully
attractive, with their gay colors and delicious fragrance. Whole fields
of tulips, hyacinths, lilies, and other brilliant blooming plants in
every shade of color are to be seen here, and this town supplies many of
the largest gardens of Europe with roots. The Spaarne River winds
through the town, which possesses the characteristic cleanliness of the
other cities of Holland.
While driving along the bank of the canal here, our attention is
attracted by the sound of loud, shrill cries which seem to come from the
water. "What!" I say, "do the lurking spirits of the slain thus make
themselves known to the living? Are there still lingering 'pale gliding
ghosts, with fingers dropping gore'?" Whatever it may be, dead or
living, ghost or mortal, I bid the driver halt, and alighting, hasten to
the edge of the canal. Looking into the dark muddy water, I see a lad of
about twelve years, just able to keep his head above the stream, and
screaming lustily for help. A young man reaches the spot at the same
moment, and plunges instantly into the canal to the rescue of the boy
who is too much frightened and exhausted to give any account of himself.
The "Groote" market is in the middle of the town, and here is to be seen
one of the finest old buildings in this part of the country. This is the
ancient meat market, built in 1603, of brick and stone, and quaint and
picturesque enough to charm the soul of an artist with an irresistible
desire to carry it home upon his canvas.
In the market-place also stands the Groote Kerk, an imposing and lofty
structure, dating back to the end of the fifteenth century, with its
tower of two hundred and fifty-five feet adding grace and beauty to the
edifice. The interior will more than repay one for the time spent in
examining it. The old walls are whitewashed to hide the ravages of time
and cover the scars, many of which, history tells us, are the results of
the Spanish siege. Here are odd and elaborate carvings, crude, primitive
benches, and the crossbeams forming the ceiling alone would convince one
of the antiquity of this relic of the middle ages. The organ,
constructed in 1735, was for many years looked upon as the most powerful
in the world, and still ranks as one of the largest instruments in
existence. It contains four keyboards, sixty-four stops, and five
thousand pipes, the greatest of which is fifteen inches in diameter, and
thirty two feet in length. We endeavor to persuade the rector to allow
us to play upon this wonderful instrument, but he is beyond flattery,
coaxing or bribery; faithfully adhering to the rigid rules, which decree
that recitals shall be held only on certain regular days. How we long to
hear the voice of this noble masterpiece which has uplifted the soul of
man, and bidden him look to God in his times of tribulation, or fill
this lofty dome with joyous notes of praise and thanksgiving in days of
peace and prosperity. I think of the stories these old walls could tell
of the cruelties of the Spanish intruders; for here are marks too deep
for paint to conceal, or time to efface. But one could write
interminably of these old towns with their quaint and glowing pictures.
At every turn a new and attractive scene presents itself, and we
reluctantly tear ourselves away, only half satisfied, and proceed to
Zandvoort, a somewhat fashionable resort on the coast of the Noord Zee.
At the railway stations and on the streets one can buy the Cologne water
in small glass bottles which is so popular throughout Holland, and which
is sold much as peanuts and pretzels are sold in our country. The
quality is excellent, and the price is so moderate that the use of this
perfume is really carried to excess by tourists, who find that it not
only refreshes one after the fatigue of a journey, but cleanses the
face from dust and cinders.
We alight at a small unpretentious station, the terminus of this
railroad, and walk a short distance to the beach. The pure salt air
seems like a delightful tonic. This is a beautiful coast, sloping
gradually to the water which is very deep. With the white sand for a
carpet, we wander on for miles, feasting our eyes upon the lovely scene
which at every turn presents a new attraction. Here are old Dutch sail
boats drawn up on the beach, and the picture is enhanced by the groups
of sailors waiting for the tide. Their blue homespun jackets, rugged
faces and not ungraceful attitudes are very suggestive to the artist.
[Illustration: "Wicker chairs offer rest to the weary pedestrian." (_See
page 140._)]
The season seems to be either early or late, for the people along the
shore are scant in number. Fresh looking wicker chairs, with large
comfortable seats and sheltering hoods, stand in front of the hotels and
at the water's edge, and at a trifling cost, offer rest to the weary
pedestrian, and protection to the shy lovers who seek to escape the
embarrassing gaze of the public. Here is the ubiquitous and persevering
fruit and cake or sandwich vendor, with basket suspended from the
shoulder, pausing before the chairs, or waylaying passers-by with
importunities to purchase grapes, plums, candies and various other
dainties. Close by us is a band of musicians with stringed instruments,
who charm us with their delightful melodies. Their music is superior to
that which greets the ear in the streets of Philadelphia. In truth, in
Holland and Germany, one rarely hears anything but good music from these
bands of itinerant players, and operatic selections of the higher class
are frequently heard at the popular beer gardens of these countries.
A short distance off are the wagons of a gypsy encampment, and the quick
witted members of these roving tribes gain a livelihood by fortune
telling. We are told that they are always to be found here during the
summer season, and are quite popular among the young and the credulous,
who willingly exchange their silver for a glimpse into the future, and
the wonderful predictions of fame and fortune made by these glib tongued
southerners. Their gay dresses, in some of which are displayed all the
colors of the rainbow, are beautiful in effect: and now I discover in
one of the great hooded chairs a lady artist, with a well covered
canvas, upon which she is painting the portrait of a handsome gypsy
girl, while the wagons and the sea form a beautiful background. I enter
into conversation with her, and learn that she is from Amsterdam, and
is filled with enthusiasm for the charms of this country. She says: "If
one will but open his eyes, he will see delightful pictures in every
corner of the province." And it is true. Nature has indeed been lavish
in her gifts to Holland. Here are scenes and subjects unlimited in
number, and indescribably attractive.