CHAPTER XI

SHIMONOSEKI; PEACE CONCLUDED WITH CHÔSHIÛ

Returning to the ship at noon, I found there my acquaintance Itô

Shunsuké, who had come to say that Chôshiû desired peace, and that a

_karô_ or hereditary councillor, provided with full powers, was coming

off to treat. A boat was accordingly despatched to meet the great man,

who shortly afterwards stood on the quarter-deck of the flagship. He was

dressed in a robe called the _daimon_, which was covered with large

light blue crests (the paulownia leaf and flower) on a yellow ground,

and wore on his head a black silk cap, which he took off on passing the

gangway. His queue was then seen to be loose, hanging over the back of

his head like a tassel, and his white silk underclothing was a marvel of

purity. His two companions, who bore a rank next only to his own, wore

their hair in the same fashion, but were without mantles. They were

conducted into the cabin, and presented to the Admirals, the Abbé

Girard, Lowder and myself acting as interpreters. They began by stating

that the Prince of Chôshiû acknowledged his defeat, and desired to make

peace with a view to the establishment of friendly relations. The

Admiral thereupon asked to see their credentials, and finding they had

none, intimated that he would give them forty-eight hours to provide

themselves with a letter from their _daimiô_. They were told that the

letter must contain the substance of what they had said, acknowledging

that he had committed a grievous wrong in firing upon foreign ships, and

begging for peace, that it must be signed with his own hand and sealed

with his seal, and that a copy must be addressed to each of the four

senior naval officers in command.

The conditions imposed were--first, that we should continue to remove

the guns and destroy the forts; second, that we would discontinue

hostilities, they on their side doing the same, but that if they fired

another shot we should burn everything we could lay our hands on in

Chôshiû's territories; third, they must deliver up intact the Dutch

sailors and boat which had fallen into their hands on the 6th; and

fourth, that they should endeavour to induce the villagers to bring off

poultry and fresh vegetables for sale. In order that they might have a

token of a peaceable disposition on our part, a white flag should be

hoisted at the main until the expiration of the time fixed for their

return. They gave as their names Shishido Giôma, adopted son of Shishido

Bizen, minister of Nagato; Sugi Tokusuké and Watanabé Kurata,

councillors. They then returned on shore, leaving communications

addressed to each of the commanders of the allied squadron, which they

had been charged to deliver at Himéshima before the bombardment. They

handed these over at the Admiral's desire, remarking that we should

perceive from the contents that the documents were useless now.

Itô gave me also transcripts of the orders received from the Mikado and

the Tycoon to expel foreigners from Japan, which Shishido certified with

his own hand to be true copies. The translations made of these papers

were afterwards published in the bluebook on Japan, where the curious

can consult them. There is no doubt that they were perfectly authentic.

It was amusing to observe the change which manifested itself gradually

in the demeanour of the envoy, who was as proud as Lucifer when he

stepped on board, but gradually toned down, and agreed to every proposal

without making any objections. Itô seemed to exercise great influence

over him. After the truce was agreed to, the country people ventured

freely along the road near the batteries, and passed on into the town,

no doubt heartily pleased at the termination of hostilities. It must be

said to their credit that the terms were faithfully adhered to by the

Chôshiû people, none of whom, except Itô and Inouyé, had supposed

Europeans to be any better than mere barbarians.

On the 9th September the "Coquette" took the two Admirals through the

straits to visit the batteries on Hikushima, and as usual I accompanied

them to interpret. From the eastern side the strait contracts rapidly,

between lofty well-wooded hills, to a width of no more than six cables'

lengths, and then as quickly opens out again, with the long line of

houses forming the town of Shimonoséki on the northern shore, while to

the left the coast trends away southwards past the village of Moji and

the town of Kokura. In front lay the broad undulating Hikushima. Passing

right out through the strait till we reached the north-west corner of

the island, we turned back again and came along its coast, passing a

little cove crowded with junks, till we came to Lime Point. Here we

disembarked to inspect the site of the batteries, from which the guns

had already been removed by our people. One of the batteries, which

originally had six guns mounted, was cut out of the cliff, and there had

evidently not been time to complete it. Immediately below the parapet

was a single gun in a pit. A little further east was a battery of eight

guns mounted _à fleur d'eau_, and close by was a smaller battery with

four embrasures which had never been armed. The only other sign of a

battery on this island was an old earthwork to the west of Lime Point,

also without guns. Kokura appeared to be strongly fortified, and it was

reported that the Chôshiû people had demanded, but unsuccessfully, to be

allowed to work the batteries against us. The "Tartar," "Dupleix,"

"Djambi," and "Metalen Kruis" had been stationed here since the 7th,

chiefly for the purpose of dismantling the batteries.

Leaving them we steamed up to Kushi saki Point, where three brass and

four _wooden_ guns had been taken. The latter were about four feet long,

and were constructed of single logs with a bore about eight inches in

diameter, having a chamber behind capable of holding about a pound and a

half of powder. Bamboo hoops surrounded the gun from breech to muzzle,

then came a layer of boards, and then more bamboo hoops; the wood itself

was only about 3-1/2 in. thick. The shot consisted of a small bag of

pebbles fastened to a wooden disk, and was intended to act like grape at

close quarters against a landing party. These curious weapons were

simply laid on the earthen parapet, and were not calculated to be used

more than once.

The Japanese had shown themselves very friendly to the working party,

and had themselves carried down the guns for delivery. They were not

improbably glad to get rid of the toys that had brought them into so

much trouble. On returning to the flagship we found a couple of boats

laden with fowls and vegetables which Shiji Bunda had sent on board as a

present. There was a note from him saying that the common people were

much too frightened to come near us to sell supplies, and complaining

that one of the ships had been firing again, an action which, he said,

would tend to endanger the friendly relations so recently established.

But this was a mistake on his part, for no incident of the kind had

occurred. The bumboatmen were shown over the ship, and expressed

themselves much delighted with the novel and wonderful sight. We sent

half of Shiji's present to the French Admiral, and our share was divided

among the officers and men of the flagship.

On the following day the envoys of the Prince of Chôshiû arrived

punctually on board the "Euryalus." Shishido and Sugi, however, did not

make their appearance, their absence being explained to be caused by

illness from want of sleep and the hot weather in combination. Admiral

Küper observed that it was singular how often this sort of thing

happened, and ironically begged that if the negotiations were not

concluded in one sitting, the delegates would take care of their health

until everything was settled. Their names were Môri Idzumo, Minister

(_Karô_) 'Yamada Uyemon, Hadano Kingo (Hadano was afterwards better

known as Hirozawa Hiôsuké) and Watanabé Kurata, councillors (_sansei_),

and Isota Kenzô and Harata Junji of Chôfu, councillors, with Shiji

Bunda. We had looked up the Japanese "blue-book" in the meantime, and

fancied we had reason to suppose the previous envoy had given an

incorrect account of his position, but they were able to clear up the

discrepancy in a satisfactory manner. The officer there called Shishido

Mino had recently changed his name to Shishido Bizen, and retired from

public life in favour of Giôma, who now represented the family. They

produced a letter from their prince which, on being read, was found to

declare in satisfactory terms that he sued for peace. The Admiral then

said: "We quite agree with your prince in desiring peace. It was never

our intention to fight your countrymen. We solely desire to cement

amicable relations between Japan and foreign countries, and to carry on

trade."

Môri replied that these were entirely the views held by the prince.

_Ad. Küper_--"Do you wish us distinctly to understand that you will

offer no further opposition to the free passage of the straits?"

_Môri_--"We do."

_Ad. Küper_--"We should like very much to have an interview with the

prince, for we could concede much to him that we could not perhaps

concede to you. We are ourselves of high rank in our own country, but

will come on shore to meet him at Shimonoséki."

After consulting among themselves they named the 14th September as the

date on which he should come down from his capital to receive the two

Admirals in the town.

_Ad. Küper_--"We will first state our demands, which can be ratified by

the prince when he comes. We shall then be able to explain to him many

matters connected with the customs of foreign countries which will

prevent mistakes arising in future. In any case the transaction of

business will be facilitated and time will be saved by the prince's

coming, as in any case his ratification has to be obtained to the terms

agreed on."

"In the first place, no batteries must be constructed in the straits

until all questions between foreigners and Japanese have been settled by

the Tycoon's government and the foreign ministers at Yedo."

"Secondly, according to the custom of foreign nations in time of war, a

ransom for the town of Shimonoséki must be paid, because we spared it

when we had a perfect right to set it on fire, for our people had been

fired on from the houses. The amount shall be communicated to the prince

himself at the conference which is to take place."

"Thirdly, when foreign vessels passing through the straits are in need

of coals, provisions, or water, they shall be permitted to purchase what

they want."

These conditions were readily accepted by the envoy, who said that as

the tides were very strong in the straits, and both wind and waves

sometimes violent, persons in distress should be permitted to land.

The Admiral then informed him that during our stay we should go on shore

at Shimonoséki to buy whatever we required, and requested him to tell

the townspeople to bring together for sale what they could, in fact to

start a market for the fleet. To this they at first objected, on the

ground that the town had been completely abandoned by its inhabitants,

but eventually agreed to do what was desired. Then Môri got up, and

leaning over to me said confidentially that there was one thing about

which he was very anxious. The peace they had obtained was a most

precious and valuable thing, and they would greatly regret if any

untoward event were to injure our present friendly relations. It might

happen that an ill-disposed person would lie in wait to attack

foreigners, and, to prevent anything of this kind occurring, he begged

that those who went ashore would be on their guard. This was interpreted

to Admiral Küper, who at once replied that we had no fear of any such

evilly disposed persons, but that if a single European were hurt, the

whole town should be burnt to the ground. The Japanese authorities, he

added, were in the habit of saying this sort of thing, solely to prevent

our landing, and it looked to him a little suspicious.

Môri answered that he feared the purity of his intentions in giving this

warning was not understood. He was sure the Japanese authorities would

on their part take every precaution to prevent mishaps, and he had only

mentioned this to prevent mistakes.

_Ad. Küper_--"Very well. We shall not go into the country at all. No

doubt there is a governor in the town. You can give orders to him to

keep out the ill-disposed, and if he cannot defend the place, we will

land and do it for him."

_Môri_--"We will give orders to the governor."

This finished the business part of the conference, but the Admiral was

curious to know the details of what had recently taken place at Kiôto,

where it was reported there had been fighting between the Chôshiû and

Aidzu men. Thereupon Shiji told us a long story, the gist of which was

that after Chôshiû had received the orders of both the Mikado and Tycoon

for "the expulsion of the foreigners," and had acted upon them to the

best of his ability, he got a great deal of abuse for having done so.

Being both surprised and hurt at this treatment, he sent several times

to Kiôto to inquire the reason, but his people were driven out of the

capital, and he was forbidden to present himself there again. He became

indignant at this injustice, and his retainers sympathized with him very

strongly. At last a band of them, who could bear it no longer, set out

for Kiôto to demand an explanation from the Mikado's ministers. They

took swords, spears, and other warlike weapons in their hands. For why?

On a former occasion, nay twice, Aidzu had put to death every Chôshiû

man to be found in Kiôto. So, said they, "Aidzu may attack us also, and

then we must defend ourselves; we will not be killed for nothing." The

prince, happening to hear of their departure, sent three of his

ministers (_karô_) to recall them, but they refused to return. Then the

governor of Kiôto summoned Chôshiû's agent at the capital to send the

men home again, "for if you don't," said he, "I shall attack them."

However, the agent refused, and a battle ensued. When the "Barrosa" came

the first time to Himéshima with the letters of the foreign

representatives, the prince despatched his son to communicate with the

Mikado, but owing to the disturbed state of affairs he was unable to

effect anything. Shiji hoped we would not believe that the Chôshiû clan

harboured any treasonable intentions towards the Mikado, and the whole

truth was that they had simply tried to get an explanation of the manner

in which they had been treated. He added that we ought not to put any

trust in what was told us by the Kokura people or the junk sailors, who

came from Yedo and Hizen and all parts of the country, and were enemies

of Chôshiû.

Our visitors were then conducted over the ship, and after being

entertained with some music by the band they went over the side, and we

parted on very friendly terms.

A comparison of dates with the account given in Adams, chapters 25 and

26, of what had passed at Kiôto during the summer, shows that the

Chôshiû clansmen were marching from Ozaka to Kiôto at the very time that

Itô and Shiji landed from the "Barrosa" and reached Yamaguchi to convey

the messages of the foreign representatives to the princes. From time to

time other bodies of Chôshiû men reached the capital, and the

accumulated elements of civil war finally exploded on the 20th August,

before the younger prince of Chôshiû, who seems to have really started

from home to calm the excited spirits of the clansmen with news of a new

enemy in their rear, had time to arrive. The best fighting men were

consequently absent when the allied squadron appeared at the straits,

and our victory was therefore a much easier affair than it would

otherwise have been. I doubt whether any of the fugitives from Kiôto got

home in time to take part in the defence of the place.

Next day Captain Hayes of the "Tartar," Major Wray, R.E., and I went

ashore for a walk through Shimonoséki. The eastern end of the town had

received a good many round shot on the 6th September, and some of the

houses were almost knocked to pieces. I believe the Chôshiû men had

brought out a field piece or two and fired from that point against the

squadron lying in front of Tanoura. This had drawn on them our heavy

artillery. The townspeople were flocking back, and had commenced to

settle down again, but very few shops were open. The common people

followed us in crowds, and appeared very friendly, but the prices asked

by the shopkeepers were exorbitant. We were somewhat surprised, though

of course without reason, to find that the proportion of _curio_ shops

was very small as compared with Yokohama. We saw several soldiers, some

armed with rifles, others carrying swords and spears; they of course

could not be expected to look very amicably at their late foes.

On the 12th, Hadano and the two governors of the town came off to tell

the Admiral that a market would be opened at a wharf called Nabéhama

from ten to twelve in the forenoon for the sale of fresh provisions. We

of course suspected them of having made this arrangement in order to

have everything under their own control, and to keep the prices as high

as possible. The Admiral demanded a market from six to eight o'clock, to

which after much discussion they agreed. I learnt through my teacher

that the people were told to sell dearly to us, in spite of the promise

given to us by the officials that they would not interfere. The latter

had begged that our men might be ordered not to purchase anything in the

shops, on the ground that we should buy up all the provisions intended

for the townsfolk.

On the 13th, Captain Dowell transferred to the "Euryalus" as

flag-captain, vice captain Alexander invalided. Next day I accompanied

the two Admirals on shore to the clean little village of Moji. On asking

some Kokura men whom we met to show us the way up to the battery on the

point where the strait sweeps round, they inquired whether we had

permission from the guard established at a temple close by. The answer

to this astounding query was that we were not in the habit of asking

leave. "Was that the path?" "Yes, that's the path." So we toiled up a

hill through the pine trees, turned to the left, and descended into the

battery, which was constructed for three guns. It commanded a view right

up and down the straits, from Manshiû to Hikushima. It was a splendid

position for guns, though a shell pitched in the line of the work would

of necessity have fallen into it, unless passing very high, as it was

cut out of the hillside. All about it there were places cleared for guns

which would have a powerful effect against ships. The thick brushwood

would prevent any attempt at escalade, and a single gun is not easily

hit. I do not know what might be done with modern artillery, but it was

the opinion of all our engineer officers that if the Japanese of that

day had known the advantages of the position, they could easily have

rendered it impregnable.

At two o'clock in the afternoon arrived the Chôshiû delegates, who by

agreement made earlier in the day were to represent the prince. The

story they told us was that he had voluntarily shut himself up in order

to await the will of the Mikado, or as they phrased it, he had placed

himself in an attitude of respectful attention (_tsutsushindé oru_).

Lest it should be supposed that this is merely a joke, I must explain

that in the old times, whenever a member of the _samurai_ class had

committed an act in person or vicariously which might be expected to

bring down upon him the wrath of his political superiors, he at once

assumed a submissive posture, and as it were delivered himself up, tied

hands and feet, to the pleasure of his lord. It was a sort of voluntary

self-imprisonment as a first-class misdemeanant. We did not accept the

excuse, which it was natural to suppose had been invented to save him

the trouble of travelling to Shimonoséki, but I now incline to think

that horrorstruck at the violent proceedings of his followers who had

dared to fight against the defenders of the palace (and also repenting

of their failure), the old prince had hastened to atone for the crime of

treason, as far as lay in his power, by declaring his readiness to

undergo any penalty that might be decreed by the sovereign--if his

retainers would let him, being understood.

Their names were Shishido Bizen, Môri Idzumo, Shishido Giôma and Ibara

Kazuyé, ministers; and Nawozaki Yahichirô (_metsuké_, a secretary), Itô

Shunsuké, Hadano Kingo and another whose name I did not note down.

Bizen, it appeared, had after all not completely retired from public

affairs. Both the Admirals were present. As soon as the conference was

formed, Admiral Küper asked why they had not let him know earlier that

the prince was in seclusion, as the truce had been granted solely that

there might be time for him to reach Shimonoséki. They answered that the

boat was slow, and they had only arrived late on the previous day. They

had spent a long time arguing with the prince and using their best

efforts to persuade him to come, but he always answered that it was an

old custom from which he could not depart. He was in disgrace with the

Mikado, and was not able to see even his own confidential retainers,

much less could he see the Admirals. They regretted it very much, but it

could not be helped. The prince would have greatly liked to meet the

Admirals.

After this question had been so thoroughly thrashed out that the

Japanese could not but suppose that great importance was attached to a

direct undertaking on the part of the prince, the Admirals' demands were

announced, as follows:--

_Firstly._ Foreign vessels passing through the straits to be treated in

a friendly manner; to be permitted to purchase coals, provisions, water

and other necessaries. If driven in through stress of weather, the crews

to be permitted to land.

_Secondly._ Henceforth no new batteries to be constructed, the old ones

not to be repaired, and no guns to be mounted in them.

This article caused some discussion, for as now put it deprived them of

a loophole that had been left open on the previous occasion. But when

they were asked for what purpose the batteries had been erected, they

had but one answer--"for making war on foreigners." "Well then, those

foreigners having destroyed the batteries, and taken the guns, will not

permit any more to be put in the same place. The article is

indispensable, and must stand as it is." So they agreed to it.

_Thirdly._ The town of Shimonoséki might justly have been destroyed,

because it fired on our ships. But it was left unhurt, and therefore a

ransom must be paid. Furthermore, the prince must defray the cost of the

expedition. The whole amount will be determined by the foreign

representatives at Yedo.

To this our friends offered strenuous opposition. Chôshiû and Bôshiû

were two very small provinces, and possessed a revenue of scarcely

360,000 _koku_ of rice. Of this, 200,000 went to support the retainers,

the balance having been spent in batteries, guns, and all other manner

of warlike equipments. If the sum demanded were beyond their resources,

they could not pay it. There were plenty of men in the province who

cared nothing for their lives in comparison with the fulfilment of their

duty towards the prince. It is he who wishes to make peace, and he has

much difficulty in repressing their zeal. The Admiral replied that they

should have calculated the price beforehand. They had chosen to make

war, and now that the bill was being presented to them, they must pay

it. Finally they agreed to this article, but it struck me that their

object was solely to let us know that their spirit was not entirely

broken, and that if our demands were too exorbitant they would fight

rather than yield.

Last of all we inserted in the draft a declaration that this was merely

a treaty for the temporary cessation of hostilities, and was entirely

independent of any questions connected with Chôshiû which might have to

be settled later on between the foreign representatives and the Japanese

Government. I imagine that this clause had reference to the indemnities

which might be demanded on the part of France, Holland and the United

States. At any rate, it was agreed to without any discussion. A fair

copy was written out, to which two of the _karôs_ affixed their

signatures, and a couple of days were given to them to go to Yamaguchi

in order to obtain the prince's signature. Those who had not previously

seen the ship were taken the usual round through the lower deck and

engine room, and they left in a body.

On the 15th things seemed quiet enough for a little private exploration

on my own account in company with my teacher. We went first to call on

Ibara Kazuyé, one of the envoys who had negotiated the agreement of the

day before, and asked him to come on board to be photographed by Beato.

Then while Hayashi, whose crown was by this time black with a

fortnight's bristly growth, went to a barber's shop to get himself clean

shaved, I strolled about the streets alone, and turned into an

eating-house where we had agreed to meet. The people received me

civilly, and showed me upstairs to a room, one side of which was

entirely open to the air, and overlooked a small courtyard. In the next

apartment were some Chôshiû two-sworded men leaning over the wooden

balcony, who waved their hands to me to go away, but I called out, "What

do you want!" in a fierce tone, and they collapsed immediately, so great

was the prestige of our victory. When Hayashi joined me, we ordered an

_awabi_ to be got ready, and while it was being cooked, devoured nearly

the whole of a ripe water melon. The _awabi_ (rocksucker) was cooked

with sugar and proved terribly tough. Two sorts of _saké_ were served,

and the waiting maid smoked all the while to perfume the room. We wound

up with terrapin soup and rice. During the rest of my stay at

Shimonoséki, which lasted nearly a month, I was constantly on shore, and

never had any trouble with the townspeople, who were always civil and

friendly.

The treaty was brought down on the 16th, and found to be duly signed and

sealed. At the same time the Japanese produced a paper which they wanted

the Admirals to sign, undertaking that the officers and crews should

keep within certain limits, and above all, should not land at night.

There was a good deal of misunderstanding about this document. The Abbé

Girard's teacher maintained that it was a memorandum or note-verbale

from the Chôshiû authorities, and as I was younger and had not the

prestige of the Abbé as a Japanese scholar, I had to give way. So we

concocted a letter in reply, which I wrote out, and took on shore to the

governor. Our letter said that the principal restrictions which the

Japanese asked us to agree to had been granted already, and that as for

the rest, the governor had on the occasion of his last visit said there

were no complaints to make of our people trespassing on either

guardhouses or temples, and therefore it was unnecessary for them to

make such demands. In future, if they had anything to communicate, it

must be done by letter, signed and sealed by Ibara Kazuyé. On reading

this, the governor to my delight said, "Here's a mistake. What I brought

to you was a draft of a letter for the naval commanders to write to us."

The object of the naval operations in the straits having been completely

attained by the destruction of the batteries and the establishment of a

good understanding with the Prince of Chôshiû, preparations were now

made to withdraw the major portion of the allied squadrons, leaving only

three ships to prevent the possibility of the passage being again

fortified. I received orders to remain behind on board the "Barrosa." A

day before the Admiral sailed a letter came from the governor asking him

to give a passage as far as Yokohama to a _karô_ and two officers. The

request was at once granted, but the three passengers not arriving in

time, word was left that they might apply to the French Admiral, who was

to leave a day later. But this they declined to do, having been

instructed to ask for a passage in an English ship, and they would go by

no other. Eventually the "Barrosa" took them.

On the 20th accordingly, all the British ships except the "Barrosa," and

all the Dutch ships but the "Djambi," sailed away up the inland sea

towards Ozaka, the French, however, remaining. I went ashore afterwards

with some officers of the "Barrosa" for a walk, and as we passed the

guardhouse, its occupants called out, "Take off your hats." I replied,

"What do you say." The man on guard, "Take off your hats. This is the

honourable guardhouse of Shimonoséki." Answer from our side, "What folly

do you talk! If you repeat it, the governor shall be informed." So we

passed on into the town to the governor's house and laid a complaint in

due form against the over-zealous guardhouse keeper. The governor

promised to administer a reprimand, and was as good as his word, so that

when some other officers came ashore and passed the same spot, the

Japanese officers rushed out into the road to tell them that they need

not uncap.

I found the townspeople very communicative about the exploits of the

Americans and French in 1863, and from their relation it was easy to see

that while Captain M'Dougall of the "Wyoming" had given a very modest

account of his achievements in the way of sinking ships and firing

houses, the French had greatly exaggerated their own deeds of valour.

The "Wyoming" ran the gauntlet of all the batteries and sank the

"Lancefield" and the brig right in front of the town, whereas the

"Sémiramis" never ventured further than Tanoura. The common folk were

all entirely convinced that the Tycoon had given orders for the

expulsion of the foreigners, and I overheard a man in the market say

"the _Bakufu_ is playing a double game." _Bakufu_ was the most common

term by which the Tycoon's government was then designated. I was asked

whether the Tycoon had asked us to come down and destroy the batteries,

to which I answered "No; but he said he could not open the straits."

Then I gave them our view of the case, which was that the Tycoon,

finding himself in a tight place between the _daimiôs_ and the

foreigners, had to give assurances to both which were inconsistent with

each other, whereupon they all cried out with one voice: "_Homma da_, it

is true." That evening there arrived from Nagasaki the steamer

"Victoria" with the vice-governor of that port and an interpreter.

Passing in front of the town they paid the French Admiral a call, and

then anchored near us in Tanoura Bay. Coming on board to make inquiries,

they asked whether Chôshiû had been beaten, and on our replying in the

affirmative, they produced a copy of the prince's first letter begging

for peace addressed to the _Americans_, which they said had been

furnished to them by the Kokura people. That I told them bluntly must be

a lie, but they would not confess the source from which they had

obtained the document. They said their instructions were to ask the

Admiral not to believe the lies Chôshiû was telling about orders

received from the Tycoon to expel foreigners, and also that having heard

the fleet was going to Ozaka, the governor of Nagasaki, who was afraid

that the appearance of so large a force before the city, fresh from the

destruction of the batteries of Shimonoséki, might cause a panic, had

sent them to prevent any difficulties between the Admiral and the

governor of Ozaka. They were very anxious lest a treaty had been

concluded with Chôshiû for the opening of Shimonoséki to foreign trade,

which would have caused the commercial ruin of Nagasaki; but we declined

to give them any information. Having beaten the Chôshiû people, we had

come to like and respect them, while a feeling of dislike began to arise

in our minds for the Tycoon's people on account of their weakness and

double-dealing, and from this time onwards I sympathized more and more

with the _daimiô_ party, from whom the Tycoon's government had always

tried to keep us apart.

On the 21st the "Sémiramis" and "Dupleix" quitted the straits, leaving

behind them the "Tancrède." Some of us went ashore to the _honjin_ to

inquire whether we could obtain a supply of bullocks for the ship. The

officials promised to do all they could, but said it would be difficult,

as they killed none for themselves. We also asked them to change some

Mexican dollars into Japanese money, which they promised to do at the

Nagasaki market rate, but it was finally arranged that if we found

ourselves in actual need of coin, they should lend us a thousand

_ichibus_, to be returned to their agent at Yokohama. They proved so

obliging that we could not help regretting that in order to gain their

friendship it had been necessary to come to blows with them. And it is

not a little remarkable that neither the Satsuma nor the Chôshiû men

ever seemed to cherish any resentment against us for what we had done,

and during the years of disturbance and revolution that followed they

were always our most intimate allies.

That day we walked the whole length of the town unattended by any guard,

and got a glimpse of the China sea beyond the straits. We met, however,

with a little show of insolence from a couple of two-sworded men, who

motioned us back to our boats, but I discoursed to them in their own

tongue, and they were speedily reduced to silence: the exhibition of a

revolver had something to do with the production of this effect.

Itô came on board one day with a couple of men who, he said, were

merchants, but it was evident from the respect he paid to one of them,

who wore two swords, that they belonged to the high official class. They

were conducted round the ship and entertained with various liquors. He

declared that in all the fighting they had only seven or eight men

killed, and about twice that number wounded, but one of his companions

told me that the number killed was nearly twenty. Itô said that trade

could be done at Shimonoséki in cotton, wax and silk produced in

Chôshiû, as well as in all the productions of the northern provinces and

Ozaka. Probably they might manufacture paper for the English market. The

prince, he added, was very desirous of opening the port to foreign

commerce, but just at present they expected an invasion of the combined

forces of the Tycoon and all the _daimiôs_, and all their attention was

directed to their own defence. The two vessels sunk by the "Wyoming" in

1863 had been raised, and sent round to Hagi. I was surprised to learn

that the batteries at Maeda mura, as well as those at Kushi saki Point,

were within the territory of the _daimiô_ of Chôfu, who was however not

in so far independent that he could stand aside when the head of the

family went to war. Last year, at the time when the Dutch corvette

"Medusa" was fired on as she passed the straits, batteries had existed

on the low hills behind the town, and at two points on the sea front,

but the guns had subsequently been removed thence to Dannoura and Maeda

mura; their fate was to fall into our hands. The small three-gun battery

on Moji Point within the Kokura territory was also the work of the

Chôshiû men, who had levelled land and commenced the construction of

barracks, which were however destroyed by the Kokura people when the

failure of the prince's Kiôto schemes drove him to withdraw within his

own boundaries for self-protection.

We went one day in our boats down to Kokura with the intention of

landing there to walk through the town, but after keeping us waiting an

hour and a half, and repeatedly promising to open the gate, they finally

refused to admit us. They did indeed open it, but only to let out a

couple of fellows, who told us in the lowest of low voices that Kokura

not being a treaty port, we could not be allowed to enter. I took care

to inform them of our opinion that it was a great piece of ingratitude

on their part to treat us in so inhospitable a manner after we had

thrashed their enemy for them. Crowds of people had collected to look at

us, and doubtless we should have been mobbed if we had landed. There was

no idea on our part of forcing our way in.

Towards the end of the month smallpox broke out on board, and W. H.

Cummings, who had succeeded to the temporary command on Captain Dowell's

transfer to the flagship, determined to leave for Yokohama as soon as

the necessary arrangements could be made. On the 27th we applied

therefore to the authorities for a pilot to take the ship through the

inland sea, and gave notice that the commanders of the three ships would

pay a visit to Ibara on the morrow in order to settle about the passage

up to Yokohama which had been promised to him and two other officers. I

took the message on shore, and stopped to have a meal with Itô, who

good-naturedly had made great efforts to get up a dinner in European

style. He had built a table seven feet long by half that width, covered

with a short cloth of some coarse foreign material. Four plates were

laid, flanked by long knives, villainously sharp, attenuated brass

spoons with flat bowls, and a pair of chopsticks. The first dish

consisted of a boiled rockfish, which I found great difficulty in

cutting, but accomplished the task at last by inserting a sharpened

chopstick into the head, and using a spoon to remove the flesh. Soy, a

large bowl of rice, and a small saucer full of coarse salt, were also

placed on the table. The second course was broiled eels, and then came

a stewed terrapin, both of which were very good, but the boiled _awabi_

and boiled chicken which followed were quite out of the question. It was

a problem how to cut up a fowl with a knife that had no point, and whose

blade threatened at every moment to part company with its handle. I

abandoned the attempt, and served my companions with slices from the

breast. Unripe persimmons, peeled and cut in four, with sweet rice beer

(_mirin_) were now produced, and this was excellent. This was certainly

the earliest attempt ever made in that part of Japan at giving a dinner

in European style, perhaps the first in Japan.

It was finally determined that the party that was to visit Yokohama

should consist of Ibara, a councillor named Sugi Tokusuké, a secretary,

and Itô, with four servants, who were to be accommodated on board the

"Barrosa" and "Djambi." The "Tancrède," which was to leave before us,

could not find room for more than half the party, and as they did not

wish to be separated longer than they could help, they elected to come

with us. On the 4th October the "Racehorse," Commander Boxer, arrived to

relieve us. Ibara and his secretary, Yamagata Keizô, and we sailed the

following morning.

News of our successful result of the naval operations and of the

conclusion of a convention with the Prince of Chôshiû was at once

conveyed to the foreign representatives at Yokohama, who lost no time in

calling the Tycoon's government to account for their apparent complicity

with Chôshiû, as evidenced by the copies of orders from Kiôto which Itô

had given us. The explanation was feeble, and the representatives found

no difficulty in obtaining from the ministers their consent to pay

whatever war indemnity might be due from Chôshiû, or else to throw open

to trade a port in the inland sea. Although in the sequel the receipt of

the indemnity money by us actually took place, it was in a manner forced

upon the four Powers and their diplomatic agents, and certainly as far

as Sir R. Alcock is concerned, he may be entirely exonerated from the

accusation of a desire to exact an indemnity from either the defeated

_daimiô_ or the government which assumed responsibility for him. The

principal object he sought was to obtain the sanction of the Mikado to

the treaties, so as to put an end to the agitation against foreign

commerce which had been carried on by hostile _daimiôs_ in the Mikado's

name ever since the opening of the ports. Now that Satsuma and Chôshiû,

the two ringleaders of the opposition, had been brought to their senses,

it ought to have been, he thought, an easy matter for the Tycoon's

government, if they sincerely desired to carry out their treaty

obligations, to assert their authority and compel the whole country to

accept the new policy of foreign intercourse. The fixing of an indemnity

was intended only to provide a means of pressure upon the Tycoon's

government in order to procure the Mikado's ratification of the

treaties, and the consequent extension of commercial relations.

Ibara and his companions reached Yokohama on the 10th October, and

obtained an interview the same day with Sir Rutherford Alcock and Mr.

Pruyn, the United States minister. The reception accorded to them was of

such a nature as to convince them that the foreign powers were not

hostilely disposed towards the _daimiô_ of Chôshiû, and it was no doubt

with a sense of relief that they learnt the intention of the foreign

representatives to claim the payment of the indemnity from the Tycoon.

At the same time it was clearly understood by both parties that the

other engagements entered into by Chôshiû respecting the permanent

disarmament of the straits of Shimonoséki and the hospitable treatment

of foreign vessels were to be faithfully adhered to, and on these heads

his subsequent conduct gave no ground for complaint. It was somewhat a

curious position for the retainers of a prince, who had been declared a

rebel against the Mikado and enemy of the Tycoon, to land at Yokohama, a

port belonging to the latter, but as far as I remember, they confined

their visit to the foreign settlement, where they were safe from

interference, and on the 14th the "Tartar" left with them on board to

return to their native province.

A Diplomat in Japan The inner history of the critical years in the evolution of Japan when the ports were opened and the monarchy restored, recorded by a diplomatist who took an active part in the events of the time, with an account of his personal experiences during that period · 第 11 / 36 章