A squaw had died here, and was buried as usual, by elevating the body

upon upright poles. A stock of food was left with her at night, to eat

on the way to the other country. But lo! in the morning she came down

and ate it all up, saying to her friends, "She wanted to see her aunt

before departing." She lived a week longer, and died, as it was

supposed, again. It is said that her friends got tired of such fooling,

and being determined to end the matter, adopted the white man's mode of

covering her up in the ground! Again she rose up and preferred some new

request; but thinking the old enchantress had stayed long enough this

side the hunting grounds, they forced her down and laid sufficient turf

upon her to keep her quiet for a long last sleep.

Among the Pawnees at Columbus, on the reservation near the railroad, an

Indian trader makes a good thing out of the poor fellows in this way:

For instance, the Indian Bureau pays off the tribe twice a year. In the

spring, blankets, etc.; these are worth at least three dollars each.

The Indians sell these blankets for a double handful of coffee and

sugar. Then they buy them back in the fall with money and buffalo meat,

which they sell to the trader at six cents the pound. He then cures the

meat and sells it back to them for twenty-five cents the pound; thus

making nine per cent. on it. Some one, it is said, complained to the

government about it, and they sent a new agent to them; but the Pawnees

had confidence in the old agent or trader named Platt, and they stoutly

refused to trade with the new man!

ACROSS THE PLAINS.

When Vice-President Colfax and Horace Greeley, and Governor Bross of

Illinois, made the journey overland to California, about twelve years

since, they went all the way by stage from the Missouri River to

Denver, Colorado, to Salt Lake, etc., through the mountains of the

Sierra Nevada. It took them about thirty days to go. Mr. Greeley said

he "could think of these plains (called in your maps the 'Great

American Desert') as fit for nothing but to fill up between commercial

cities!" But he was partly mistaken, as his friends are now planting a

colony (named Greeley) of intelligent settlers on the Cach-le-pow-dre

Creek, south of Cheyenne, fifty-five miles toward Denver, where ninety

thousand acres of land have been secured for tillage, and where

saw-mills and stores and dwellings are to be erected. The success of

this enterprise has led to another one. The railroad _has projected

civilization one hundred years ahead_, opening up a highway for

commerce from New York to the "Golden Gate," to Asia, Africa, and

China, which will astonish the world and divert the course of trade to

the Pacific coast.

But you are interested mainly, I see, in reading about the incidents

which attended the opening up of this great national highway.

The dangers attending the building of the road were sometimes very

great, as the Indians saw very plainly that it was the white man's

encroachment on his hunting-grounds. And when even the telegraph-poles

were being put up, long before, the Indians imagined that the

government was thus putting them up to fence off their hunting-grounds,

so they could not get any more buffalo! And once, after I came to Fort

Sedgwick, the wires were said to be "down," and no communication could

be had with other posts in the upper country. It was feared that the

Indians had been tampering with the wires, and torn them down. But the

operators went out under an escort of soldiers to see what the

difficulty was. They came back again in a couple of days, and reported

that the Indians had not meddled with the wires at all. But it seemed

that some buffaloes in a large drove had taken the privilege of

scratching their rumps against the poles, and thus tore them down; and

getting their horns entangled in the wires, the wild creatures had

carried off about four miles of telegraph-wire!

WHY DOES NOT THE INDIAN MEDDLE WITH THE TELEGRAPH?

It is said that the pioneer company over the plains got together

several chiefs and explained as well as they could the _modus operandi_

of obtaining electricity from the clouds, and making it useful in

conveying intelligence to great distances. This was hard for them to

believe, because they are superstitious, and attribute all phenomena

they do not fully understand to _conjuration_ or _charms_, such as

their medicine-man practices. However, they concluded to put the matter

to a test.

So it was that two principal Indians, about one hundred miles apart,

agreed to send a message over the lines on a given day, and then they

would travel toward each other as fast as they could to see if the

message (known only to themselves and the operator) should be correct.

Of course it proved as we would expect, and they were satisfied. This

intelligence has spread from one tribe to another, and they, believing

that it is somehow (as it is in truth) connected with the Great Spirit

who controls the winds and the storms; hence they do not meddle with

it.

PLUM CREEK MASSACRE.

But it is not to be supposed that the Indians quietly submitted to the

building of the railroad through their country.

The most formidable obstacle which was met with in building the road

occurred in 1866, by the throwing off the track a train of cars at Plum

Creek, near the Platte River, two hundred and thirty miles west of

Omaha.

The Indians were led on by a half-breed, and probably one or more

scalawag whites were engaged in this diabolical act, as one was found

among the killed with his face painted black and wearing Indian

clothing. Some one having a fertile imagination made a picture of this

scene, and I saw it copied in Philadelphia for some wall-paper to

ornament hotel dining-rooms. Speaking to some ladies there about the

delightful trip to California over the Pacific Railroad, one exclaimed,

"I would like to visit California, but oh, my! I never could venture on

the danger. Just look at the picture in the window, corner Chestnut

Street and Broad. The horrid Indians have thrown the cars off the

track, and killing all the passengers!" I explained to her that it was

a fancy sketch entirely, gotten up for a bar-room wall-paper, and that

it was ridiculous and false; for the picture was made to show the

locomotive off the rail, and the Indians riding round the cars in white

shirt sleeves and bright-red, flaring neckties, like gay cavaliers or

brigands!

PAWNEE INDIANS--YELLOW SUN AND BLUE HAWK.

Both these Indians declare themselves innocent of the crime of murder.

I visited Omaha in the fall of 1869, where they were lodged in jail

awaiting their trial. Just before I came one of them had escaped, and

gone back to the Pawnee reservation, near Columbus. Here the sheriff

and soldiers found him with his squaw, decked out in all their style of

paint and ornament, ready for the sacrifice. He was ready and willing

to be slain _among_ his own people, but to go back and suffer the

ignominy of being hung up by the neck till dead was more than he could

bear. If the Indian dies in this way, all believe they cannot enter

into the happy hunting-grounds.

They were supposed to have murdered Edward McMurty, near Grand Island,

Nebraska, in June, 1868.

After being shut up in a filthy jail about two years, they were

acquitted. This was a sample of the way we dispense justice in our

courts of law.

A TRIP TO FORT LARAMIE.

This post was established a great many years since by the American Fur

Company, to trade with the Indians, buying furs and peltries of them in

return for various articles of merchandise, such as tobacco, sugar,

coffee, blankets, calico, beads, etc. Mr. John Jacob Astor, the

millionaire of New York, made his great wealth by dealing in furs with

the Indians.

It is related of an agent of the company that while weighing the furs,

he would place his foot on the scales and call it a pound! Of course he

could keep it on as long as he chose, and the Indians would be none the

wiser. It is a good story, but in nowise related to Mr. Astor, who was

reputed to be honest, and at one time very poor.

It was full of curiosity that I started from Fort Russell with the

paymaster, Major Burbank, Inspector-General Sweitzer, Medical Director

J. B. Brown, and others, on the last of May, 1870, with an escort of a

dozen cavalry, to pay a few days' visit to Laramie, ninety-five miles

north-east of our post. Leaving at noon in procession, with three

ambulances and as many army wagons, scaling the bluffs, bare of

everything like trees or shrubs, and only covered with grass and wild

flowers, and now and then sage-bush and prickly-pear cactus, which are

very troublesome to the horses' feet. The roads were, as usual, very

hard and fine, so that up hill and down dale we made six miles to the

hour all the way. Our first station was Horse Creek, twenty-five miles,

where we camped on a fine stream of water for the night. When a party

thus camps out, the wagons are corraled, as it is called,--_i.e._ a

circle is made of them and the horses are tethered inside or _lariated_

with a rope long enough to let them feed, and this is held by an iron

stake or pin driven into the ground. Then the tents are put up in a

line, and at once begins the work of gathering brush and sticks (or

buffalo-chips), with which to cook a savory supper of bacon, potatoes,

and hot coffee. This is the time for cracking jokes, telling stories of

pioneer life,--and the colored boys are full of fun. We had one from

the South named Tom Williams, belonging to Colonel Mason, of the 5th

Cavalry. After enjoying our evening meal and getting ready to lie down

in our tents, spread on the grass, as the evening approached, the sun

was sinking behind Laramie Peak,--a mountain far away in the Black

Hills, towering up eight thousand feet,--and all nature was hushed into

repose, and each one with his lungs full of the light air, and his body

weary with a long ride, just dropping off to sleep,--all at once there

was a yell and halloo outside, which caused me to jump up and look out

to see if any red-skins had broke through the guard and invaded our

peaceful circle. Instead of scalping Sioux, there was nothing the

matter but the return of a drove of large beef-cattle we had passed

grazing on the Chugwater, and which sought our camping-ground on

account of a bare place where they could lie down and be warm for the

night. Our Tom was racing up and down among them, yelling "Hi, hi!" and

shaking his blanket in all directions to stampede the poor cattle, who

had as good a right as we to the soil.

Pickets were stationed all around us, and, save the snoring of some

tired sleeper and the occasional braying of a mule or two, we slept

soundly, with no fear of Indians. Here we met a white man and his wife,

a squaw, and several others, who were waiting for Red Cloud and his

chiefs, who were on their way to Washington from Fort Fetterman. They

were related to John Reichaud, a half-breed belonging to Red Cloud's

party. This Reichaud had lived about Laramie and Fetterman for many

years, and, by raising stock and trading, had accumulated, it is said,

about two hundred thousand dollars. During last winter, while drunk, he

quarreled with a soldier, and a little while after, in passing some

barracks at Fetterman, he aimed his revolver at a soldier, who was

sitting in front of his quarters, named Kernan, and killed him,

supposing it was the same soldier he had just before been quarreling

with. Finding out his mistake, he fled away up to Red Cloud's camp, and

while there incited the Indians to make war upon the whites. At the

time we were going up, General John E. Smith was journeying towards us

with Red Cloud and his band of warriors, and having Reichaud as the

chief's prisoner. It was said he expected to get the President to

pardon him and allow him to establish a trading-post for the

Ogallallas. The feeling against this outlaw was such as to make General

Smith fear that some one at Cheyenne would shoot him, and so the party

turned off to Pine Bluff Station, about forty-three miles east of that

town. We thus missed seeing them. But there were other objects of

interest in our journey, and we went on to the mail station, called the

Chug, a place not of much note,--for beside a company of cavalry, there

were not a dozen ranches there on the beautiful stream, along whose

banks were growing willow-trees, and the cottonwood also. Besides,

there were half a dozen tepees filled with half-breeds, who are herders

and wood-choppers in the mountains.

While the paymaster was dispensing the greenbacks to Uncle Sam's boys,

the doctor and I sallied out with a guide in search of those much

admired

MOSS AGATES,

which are here found in great abundance, even quarried out of a bluff

and carried off by the wagon-load. The guide had been there but once,

and somehow or other he could not locate it exactly, and we had a ride

out of six miles and back without finding the spot. Still, we picked up

a few on the way. As these are now so much the fashion for jewelry, I

will describe them. First, I should say that most suppose they contain

real moss, or fern-leaves, so distinct are they seen in a clear agate

to resemble them. Thus you see imitations of pine-trees, vines, a

deer's head, and sprigs of various kinds; but it is through iron

solutions penetrating them when in a soluble state. If you take a pen

and drop some ink into a tumbler of water, it will scatter and form for

the moment an appearance like a moss agate. These agates, when found on

bluffs or dry places, are coated over with a white covering of lime or

alkali. Those in the beds of rivers found along the line of the Pacific

Railroad, are smooth and transparent. They are called the "Cheyenne

brown agate," "Granger water agate," "Church Buttes light-blue agate,"

and the "Sweet-water agate."

There are great quantities of them near Church Butte and Granger

stations, nearly nine hundred miles west of Missouri River. You have to

poke among cobble-stones, etc. to find them, and when a person comes

upon a handsome specimen, he will shout, as did a minister from

Chicago, one day, with me, when he picked up a nice one as large as an

egg,--"Glory hallelujah!"

It is like searching for gold and silver,--very exciting, and far more

pleasurable than fishing or hunting. A friend here has about sixty

pounds of agates, for which he was offered by a lapidary in New York

five dollars a pound. A handsome stone for a ring or pin is worth, when

cut into shape, from three to five dollars. The lapidary cuts them with

a steel wheel, about eight inches in diameter, using oil and

diamond-dust in cutting and polishing.

A YOUNG BRAVE.

At Chug Station I met a frontiersman named Phillips, of long

experience, who told me in his new adobe house of an old chief who had

lost five sons, and when the first was slain he cut off a piece of his

thumb, next of his forefinger, and so on, till five told of his boys

killed. The last was a brave, and supposed no ball could hit him,

wearing, he supposed, "a charmed life." He came to the "Chug" and dared

them to shoot. As he and three or four more had killed a white man and

wounded others, the people all turned out, and Phillips shot the bold

young fellow, and wounded the rest of the party so that they died. The

body of the young Indian lay by the roadside for several weeks, till

the wolves and ravens had picked his bones, and I picked up his skull,

pierced through with several balls, to bring back and present to the

post-surgeon.

This grinning skull was lying on the grass which covered the roadside,

and almost beneath towering monuments or bluffs of sandstone, which jut

out at several points on the road, running along for great distances,

and towering up several hundred feet high. We passed soon after several

of these projections, which look like fortifications and baronial

castles of some knights of the olden time. "Chimney Rock" is well known

to travelers as a series of fluted columns, and standing solitary, as

sentinels in the desert, they look solemn, lonely, and sublime. Old

George, the stage-driver, has passed them twice a week for many years,

and the wonder is he has not lost his scalp.

Sometimes the chiefs and old Indians will cut slits in their cheeks and

rub ashes in them, sitting over the fire and bemoaning the loss of

their dead children. They present a horrid appearance to one who looks

at their pagan mode of bewailing the departed.

Arrived at Fort Laramie on the third day, we were courteously welcomed

by Colonel F. F. Flint, of the 4th Infantry, commandant of the post.

Delicacy dictates that we forbear to speak of the charming family which

surrounds him; but the rarity of Christian households in the army made

our visit there like to an oasis in the desert.

To visit the Indian graves surrounding the post was a prominent object

before us in going. Lieutenant Theodore F. True, with an orderly, two

mules, and a horse saddled, found us fording the Laramie River to

inspect the grave,--if such it can be called, as shown in the picture

on this page,--where the body was dried up like a mummy, and nothing

else but fragments of a buffalo-robe dangling in the wind was to be

seen. Relic hunters had carried away everything in the shape of bow and

arrow, wampum, etc.

We moralized over this beautiful feature of Indian superstition,

wherein they are certainly free from the horrid thought that any one is

ever buried alive!

Next we sought the place where the remains of Mon-i-ca, daughter of

Zin-ta-gah-lat-skah, was placed, by her request, in the white man's

cemetery, and alongside of the body of her uncle Sho-ta,--"Old

Smoke,"--an old warrior. The coffin was made at the post, and elevated

on posts about ten feet high. They cover these coffins with handsome

red broadcloth, and deposit in each all the trinkets and valuables

belonging to the departed. One other grave there the Indians visit

annually, and mourn over with their lamentations,--that of a Frenchman

named Sublette, who brought them down and directed them how to vanquish

their enemies, the Pawnees, in a great battle.

THE HEAD CHIEF--RED CLOUD.

Red Cloud is regarded as the head chief of the Sioux nation, and for

over twenty years has been thus venerated. He is fifty-three years old,

and claims to have fought in eighty-seven battles, often wounded, but

never badly hurt. Red Cloud is about six feet six inches in his

stockings (I mean moccasins), large features, high cheek bones, and a

big mouth, and walks knock-kneed, as others do. His face is painted,

and his ears pierced for gaudy rings, which men and women have an equal

pride for. His and other chiefs' robes were beautifully worked with

hair, beads, and jewels. His leggins were red, handsomely worked with

beads and horse-hair and ribbons, and his moccasins were fit for a

prince to wear.

He has encountered the Utes, Pawnees, Snakes, Blackfeet, Crows, and

Omahas. Thirty-three years ago, while he was the youngest of the

braves, he engaged with a party of one hundred and twenty-five warriors

of his tribe, and only twenty-five escaped alive. Twice was he wounded,

and so distinguished by his daring that he was made a chief for his

skill in fighting. Then he rose in rank to the highest station, and he

holds it to-day. His people regard him as one of the greatest warriors

on the plains, being skilled with the tomahawk, rifle, and bow and

arrow, and in councils of chiefs, his wonderful sagacity and eloquence

have stamped him, in the eyes of all Indians, as worthy of veneration

and implicit obedience. As I had missed the party on their way to

Washington by a few hours' tarrying on the "Chug," and General Smith

had taken a short cut across to Pine Bluff Station, seventy-three miles

below Cheyenne, to avoid a conflict anticipated about Richaud, I will

give an account gleaned from others, of this expedition, which it is

hoped may result in lasting peace.

The "outfit" assembled in front of General Flint's house, on their

arrival at Fort Laramie, and got up a regular war-dance to amuse the

general's family and others there. This chief, Red Cloud, whose fame

had extended hardly east of the Missouri River, has now spread over the

world; and from his wigwam and hunting-grounds, he is heard of across

the Atlantic as a great man of destiny. He has passed through Omaha and

Chicago to Washington in his war-paint, ornamented with eagle's

feathers, buffalo-skins, horse-hair, bears' claws, and trophies of his

skill, which he values more highly than a brigadier the stars upon his

shoulders!

Along with him were nineteen of his braves and four squaws, which is a

small number, considering that the Indian is a Mormon in the matter of

polygamy. The Indian _buys_ his wife (or wives) by giving a pony for

the prize; and when Mother Bickerdyck, the army-nurse, saw "Friday" in

Kansas, and upbraided him with having _two_ squaws, he said, "Well,

give me one white squaw, and I'll be content; you know one white squaw

is equal to two Indian squaws!"

General Smith was a favorite of Red Cloud's, having met him in the

Powder River country, and under circumstances which made him respected

among the Sioux Indians.

The chiefs on Red Cloud's staff, and going to Washington, were:

Shem-ka-lu-tah, Red Dog.

Mon-tah-o-he-te-kah, Brave Bear.

Pah-gee, Little Bear.

Mon-tah-zia, Yellow Bear.

Makh-to-u-ta-kah, Sitting Bear.

Makh-to-ha-she-na, Bearskin.

Sha-ton-sa-pah, Black Hawk.

Shunk-mon-e-too-ha-ka, Long Wolf.

Me-wah-kohn, Sword.

Ko-ke-pah, Afraid.

Ke-cha-ksa-e-un-tah, The One that runs through.

Ke-yah-lu-tah, Red Fly.

En-ha-mah-to, Rock Bear.

Me-nah-to-ne-ow-jah, Living Bear.

Och-le-he-lu-tah, Red Shirt.

_Squaws of High Blood._

Dah-sa-no-we, The White Cow Rattler, Sword's wife.

Ny-ge-uh-ha, Thunder Skin, wife of Ke-cha-ksa-e-un-tah.

E-dah-zit-chu, The Woman without a Bow (Sansare tribe), wife of

Yellow Bear.

Mak-ko-cha-ny-an-tah-ker, The World Looker, wife of Black Hawk.

[Illustration: ISAAC H. TUTTLE, A CONVERTED INDIAN CHIEF.]

[Illustration: INDIAN BOYS PRACTICING WITH BOW AND ARROW.]

[Illustration: INDIAN BURIAL.]

[Illustration: BISHOP CLARKSON CONFIRMING CONVERTED INDIANS IN

NEBRASKA AND DAKOTA.]

[Illustration: GROUP OF CONVERTED INDIANS WITH THEIR PASTOR.]

[Illustration: SPOTTED TAIL AND HIS SON.]

Along with them were John Richaud, the renegade, and a half-breed,

James McCluskey. Also William G. Bullock, the post-trader at Fort

Laramie, as familiar with the Indians as any one in those parts, unless

it is a wealthy merchant in St. Louis, Mr. Beauvais, a Frenchman.

As the Indians entered the cars at Pine Bluff Station,--and one can

hardly imagine what were their thoughts, because they had never before

seen a train of cars or a locomotive,--a friend who was there said

that, as soon as the cars started, the Indians expressed some terror in

their countenances, and all at once grasped hold of the seats with both

hands to hold on! As they passed through Columbus, on the road, several

of the Pawnees (their deadly enemies) came in and shook hands with

them. Arrived at Omaha, they were quartered at the Cozzens Hotel; but

instead of occupying bedrooms and beds, they spread their blankets and

skins on the floor, and sank down to a rest much coveted after a long

and tedious journey of a thousand miles. Here crowds poured in from

every quarter to interview these noted warriors; but as they did not

speak English, they were only gazed at by curious people.

_Red Dog_ ranks next as a warrior chief, and is much finer looking; but

Man-afraid-of-his-Horses (sick at home) is head chief in civil matters.

_Red Shirt_ is head chief of the White-Sash Band, of three hundred

braves, is twenty-seven years of age, and was twice wounded in battle.

_Long Wolf_, with four ugly scars, is of the same band.

_Black Hawk_, wounded three times, is about second to Red Cloud as a

bold warrior. All have distinguished themselves in various ways, and

their buffalo-robes are worked and stained with figures and various

objects, all of which tell the history of each one, describing minutely

from childhood the first game they killed, whether a bird, antelope, or

deer, and so on to some fight with an enemy,--all of which, clear as

mud to me, is plain to them as a book. It is said that Red Cloud had

prepared the following speech to make to his "Great Father," the

President; but he changed his mind, and made another:

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