CONCERNING THEIR APPAREL
In 1630 there were differences in dress even more so than at the
present time. The simple, coarse clothing of the yeoman and the
worker in the various trades was far removed from the dress of the
merchant and the magistrate. Leather clothing was very generally
worn by laborers and servants as deerskins were cheap and leather
had been in common use for jerkins and breeches in Old England, so
naturally it was worn here. Stockings were made of a variety of
materials and most shoes had wooden heels.
Higher in the social scale men wore doublets and full breeches and
clothed themselves as well as their estates permitted--sometimes
even better than they could well afford. Sleeves were slashed.
Falling bands at the neck were common and a deep linen collar
appears in portraits of the period. A beaver or felt hat with
steeple crown was worn, and gloves, sometimes elegantly embroidered,
were essential. The accepted idea of Puritan dress should be revised
and the Victorian standard of sentimental simplicity be discarded.
There was great variety of fabrics available in the shops of London
and Bristol as will be noted in the list at the end of this chapter,
and as wealth permitted probably much of this material eventually
found its way to the shelves of the shopkeepers in Boston and other
of the larger seaport towns.
The following list of clothing each man should provide himself with
on sailing for New England in 1629, when the Rev. Francis Higginson
came over, is so specific that we can easily visualize the male
company that arrived at Salem that year.
NOTE. As several excellent books are available that treat
exclusively of costume in the colonies, it has not seemed
necessary to elaborate on the subject in these pages. The
following notes however, are thought to be of interest.
4 peares of shoes.
4 peares of stockings.
1 peare Norwich gaiters.
4 shirts
2 suits dublet and hose of leather
lyn'd with oy'd skin leather, ye
hose & dublett with hooks &
eyes.
1 suit of Nordon dussens or hampshire
kersies lyn'd the hose with
skins, dublets with lynen of gilford
or gedlyman kerseys.
4 bands
2 handkerchiefs
1 wastecoat of greene cotton bound
about with red tape
1 leather girdle
1 Monmouth cap
1 black hatt lyned in the brows with
lether
5 Red Knitt capps mill'd about 5d.
apiece
2 peares of gloves
1 Mandillion [mantle or great
coat] lyned with cotton
1 peare of breeches and waistcoat
1 leather sute of Dublett & breeches
of oyled leather
1 peare of leather breeches and
drawers to weare with both
there other sutes.
Fine clothing surrounded itself with fine furnishings, according
to the standards of the period, and as the wealth of the Colony
increased with the successful exportation of fish, lumber, beaver,
and peltry, it supplied them with all kinds of luxuries and
refinements. The ships were crossing frequently and the Colony kept
pace with the mother country much as the country follows the city at
the present time.
In the town of Ipswich, lived Madam Rebecka Symonds, writing in
her sixtieth year to her son in London to send her a fashionable
"lawn whiske," for her neckwear. In due time he replied that the
"fashionable Lawn whiske is not now worn, either by Gentil or
simple, young or old. Instead where of I have bought a shape and
ruffles, which is now the ware of the gravest as well as the young
ones. Such as goe not with naked necks ware a black wifle over it.
Therefore, I have not only Bought a plaine one y't you sent for, but
also a Luster one, such as are most in fashion."
The dutiful son also purchased for his mother's wear a feather fan;
but he writes to her "I should also have found in my heart, to have
let it alone, because none but very grave persons (and of them very
few) use it. Now 'tis grown almost as obsolete as Russets, and more
rare to be seen than a yellow Hood." When the feather fan reached
Ipswich it was found to have a silver handle and with it came "two
tortois fans, 200 needles, 5 yds. sky calico, silver gimp, a black
sarindin cloak, damson leather skin, two women's Ivorie Knives,
etc."[30]
[30] Waters, _Ipswich in the Massachusetts Bay Colony_, Ipswich,
1905.
Human nature and human frailities were much the same in the
seventeenth century as at the present time, and before long, the
magistrates considered it desirable to curb the extravagancies
of dress that followed the London mode; and to induce a spirit
of economy more fitting to the poverty of a new settlement. The
ministers controlled the lawmaking body and sumptuary laws were
enacted which are enlightening. Because of "newe and immodest
fashions" the wearing of silver, gold and silk laces, girdles and
hat bands was prohibited. It was the fashion at that time to slash
the sleeves so that a fabric of another color worn beneath would
show in an ornamental manner through the slash. The ministers
decreed that neither man nor woman should wear clothing with more
than one slash on each sleeve and another on the back. "Cutt-works,
inbroidered or needle worke capps, bands & rayles," were
forbidden.[31] Ruffs and beaver hats were prohibited, as was long
hair. Binding or small edging laces might be used, but the making or
selling of bone lace was penalized at the rate of five shillings per
yard.
[31] _Records of the Mass. Bay Colony_, Vol. I, p. 126.
But this didn't change human nature and although from time to time
offenders were taken into court and punished, the wearing of fine
clothing fashioned after the London mode continued and a few years
later the ministers tried their hand again. Any kind of lace was
anathema and "no garment shalbee made with short sleeves, whereby
the nakedness of the arme may bee discovered." On the other hand,
large sleeves were forbidden, so the maids and goodwives of the time
must have been somewhat at a loss to know how lawfully to fashion
their clothes.
The minister at Ipswich grew so ill-tempered over the ungodly state
of the women in his town that he vented his spleen as follows:
"When I hear a nugiperous Gentledame inquire what dress the Queen
is in this week, what the nudius tertian of the Court, I look at
her as the very gizzard of a trifle, the product of a quarter of a
cypher, the epitome of nothing, fitter to be kickt, if she were of a
kickable substance than either honoured or humoured."[32]
[32] Ward, _The Simple Cobler of Aggawam_, London, 1647.
The minister in the adjoining town, Rowley, actually cut off his
nephew from his inheritance because he wore his hair long in the
prevailing fashion. Later in the century the offense of wearing
long hair was forgotten in the unspeakable sin of wearing wigs. The
Great and General Court again took a hand and in 1675 condemned
"the practise of men's wearing their own or other's hair made into
periwigs." Judge Sewall in his _Diary_ alludes to the custom. In
1685 three persons were admitted to the Old South Church in Boston.
"Two wore periwigs," comments the Judge.
"1708, Aug. 20, Mr. Chievar died. The Wellfare of the Province was
much upon his Spirit. He abominated Periwigs."[33]
[33] _Sewall's Diary_, Vol. II, p. 231.
The Great and General Court at one time ordered that no person
should smoke tobacco in public under a penalty of two shillings
and six pence, nor in his own house with a relative or friend. But
everybody smoked who wanted to, even the maids, and the repressive
legislation in time met the usual fate of similar efforts to
restrain individual liberty and manners.
It is sweet to fancy Priscilla at her spinning wheel wearing the
coif and nun-like garb of the Puritan maiden of the poet and the
artist. But the inventories of estate in the early years of the
Colony, as well as at a later time, furnish evidence of a different
character. The variety of fabrics listed is amazing and holds
its own with the modern department store. There are most of the
well-known fabrics of today, such as calico, cambric, challis,
flannel, lawn, linen, plush, serge, silk, velvet, and many others;
and there are also names that sound strangely in modern ears, viz.:
cheney, darnex, dowlas, genting, inckle, lockrum, ossembrike,
pennistone, perpetuana, sempiternum, stammell, and water paragon.
As for dress--the women wore bonnets, caps, silk hoods, coifs,
forehead cloths, ruffs, and whisks. Gowns, cloaks, mantles, and
muffs are mentioned frequently; as are many kinds of lace and
even fans and veils. Shawls and scarfs were not unknown and there
were gold, silver, and enamelled rings. Women possessed masks, and
stomachers were not uncommon. Tortoise shell combs appear; all
well-to-do persons wore gloves, and as for shoes--there were shoes
with French heels, fall shoes, and those with silver buckles. Even
shoe strings appear in the inventories. There were silver, pewter,
and steel buttons and those of gympe, thread, and silk.
Laboring men wore leather and coarse fabrics and for others there
were suits, doublets, waistcoats and breeches. Trousers are
mentioned; also a cane and periwigs. Of caps and hats there were a
number of kinds--felt, castor, demi-castor, and even straw. Capt.
George Corwin, a Salem merchant, owned a cloth coat trimmed with
silver lace, a velvet coat, a tabby doublet, an old-fashioned
Dutch satin doublet, four cloaks of various kinds, two pairs of
golden topped gloves, one embroidered pair, and a pair with black
fringe. He also took his walks abroad wearing silk stockings, with
a hat encircled by a silver band and carrying a silver-headed cane
or a plate hilt rapier, according to fashion. He possessed two
silver watches. Who shall say that the men and women of the New
England colonies did not dress well and live well in the early days
according to their means?[34]
[34] In the inventory of the estate of Henry Landis of Boston,
Shopkeeper, deceased, taken, Dec. 17, 1651, appears his clothing,
viz.:
1 suite of fine broad cloth £1.10.0
1 French serge suite, 18.0
1 Stuffe Cassoke & 1 pr breeches, 16.0
1 French serge Cassocke £1. 0.0
1 pr red drawers, 5.0
1 wascoate 5.0
1 pr cotton breeches 2.0
5 pr stockings & a hoode 12.0
1 hatte 2.6
--_Suffolk Co. Probate Rds._, Vol. II, p. 127.
In the late 1600's, and until comparatively recent times, working
men very generally wore frocks, a custom in dress that dates
back into the centuries. It was an almost universal custom for
farmers and those employed in the mechanic trades to wear a
frock. The farmer generally looked upon the frock as an outer
garment--something to put on in colder weather or to slip on to
protect underclothing or to conceal an untidy appearance. It was a
garment to take off on coming into the house or to put on when going
to the village or to market.
Carters or truckmen also habitually wore frocks. Drake, in his
"Landmarks of Boston," describes the old-time trucks, not to exceed
eighteen feet in length, with their loads of hogsheads of molasses
and other heavy merchandise balanced on the one axle and the two
horses harnessed tandem, the head horse led by the truckman. With
the disappearance of these ponderous vehicles also went "that
distinctive body of men, the 'Boston Truckmen,' who once formed
a leading and attractive feature of our public processions, with
their white frocks and black hats, mounted with their magnificent
truck-horses. Hardy and athletic, it would be hard to find their
equals on either side of the water. The long jiggers now used are
scarcely less objectionable than the old trucks." Drake wrote this
only seventy-five years ago but the "jiggers" of his time have now
almost entirely disappeared.
The frock was a loose garment slipped on over the head and in
length usually reached halfway between the knees and the feet. The
opening in front reached from the neckband nearly to the waist and
was closed by buttons, though sometimes a gathering string was
used. The bottom was cut up eight or ten inches, on the sides, to
permit greater freedom in walking. There were long frocks and short
frocks, the latter being generally worn indoors. The frocks worn in
workshops by mechanics were short.
One early source of information exists in the advertisements of
runaway servants to be found in the eighteenth-century Boston
newspapers. During the quarter-century following 1725, the _Boston
News-Letter_ printed thirty-seven advertisements asking for the
detention of white male servants, twenty-one of whom ran away during
the cold-weather months. Of the latter, six wore frocks or carried
frocks in their bundle of clothing. It is fair to assume that some
of these men may have taken with them only their best clothing and
left working garments behind, hence the small number of frocks
specifically mentioned. This possibly may have been the fact in
the instance of an Irish servant, aged twenty-six, who ran away in
December, 1741, from his master, James Hunt of York, Maine. He wore
a broadcloth coat and jacket of a cinnamon color, a pair of orange
colored plush breeches and a good beaver hat. The reward for his
detention was £3.
John Davis, a servant of Mr. Okenden of Boston, absented himself
from service in March, 1728, and among other clothing he took with
him a brown fustian frock, and a pair of striped ticking breeches.
Frocks and "trouzers" were part of the personal effects of William
Davison, a tailor, in King Street, Boston, that were advertised for
sale at public vendue in November, 1729.
Charles Daly, an Irish boy, who ran away from his master in Boston,
in December, 1732, wore a fustian frock and another Irish servant
who ran away from a brigantine at Boston four years later, wore a
new frock and trowsers.
An Irish servant of Captain Luce of Boston, a cooper by trade, took
with him when he disappeared in December, 1737, a frock and a pair
of "trowsers." Ten years later a negro servant who ran away from the
North End of Boston, took with him a new ozen-brig frock.
The settlers came provided with English-made shoes it is likely of
a quality similar to those provided by John Hewsen in 1629, the
contract reading: "To make eight pair of welt-neat's leather shoes,
crossed on the outside with a seam, to be substantial, good over
leather of the best, and two soles, the inner sole of good neat's
leather, and the outer of tallowed backs."[35] In 1651, the stock of
Robert Turner of Boston, shoemaker, was inventoried as follows: 23
pairs of children's shoes at 9d. per pair; 29 pairs of No. 11, at
4/4; of No. 12, at 4/8; of No. 13, at 4/10 per pair; 20 dozen wooden
heels at 8d. per dozen; 14 pairs boots at 14/ per pair.
[35] _Records of the Massachusetts Bay Colony_, Boston, 1853, Vol.
I, p. 27.
In 1672, a committee of the town of Boston, considering that people
in low circumstances "will wear no other shoes or boots generally
but of the newest fashion and highest price" proposed that a law
should be enacted that no shoemaker shall sell to any inhabitant,
shoes of 11 or 12 sizes above five shillings a pair and so in
proportion as to other sizes.[36]
[36] Felt, _The Customs of New England_, Boston, 1853.
During the first half century following the arrival of the settlers,
red colored stockings were much worn in New England and russet and
green colored stockings were also in fashion. Stockings made of wash
leather were worn. In 1675 cloth stockings sold at 14/ to 18/ a
dozen pairs. In 1675 John Usher of Boston wrote to his principal in
London: "Your stirrups and turn-down stockings are not salable here."
The Massachusetts Bay Company sent over in its stock, in 1629, a
hundred black hats made of wool and lined in the brim with leather
and at the same time came one hundred Monmouth caps, so-called from
the place where they were manufactured, and valued at two shillings
each. With them came five hundred red knit caps, milled, at five
pence each. Beaver hats were also worn at that time and in 1634
prohibited by order of the General Court. In 1651, a shopkeeper in
Boston, sold black hats at 14s. 16s. and 5s.; colored hats brought
10s. and others, 8s.; children's were 3/6; black castors, 14s. and
coarse felt hats, 3s. each.
In 1675 a Bostonian wrote to a friend in London, that the local
market for sugar-loaf or high-crowned hats was dull.
The Monmouth or military cocked hat, for men, began to come into
fashion about 1670, with an average width of brim of six inches.
Their inconvenient width led to the practice of having one flap
fastened to the side of the crown, either before or behind, and
then to having two flaps alike secured. During the reign of Queen
Anne, the brim was caught up in three flaps, and so the triangularly
cocked hat became the fashion.[37]
[37] Felt, _The Customs of New England_, Boston, 1853.
Doublets were made of leather, usually red in color, and fastened
with hooks and eyes. They were large on the shoulders, having
much cutwork showing the linen shirt beneath. Toward the end of
the century their popularity waned and they were succeeded by the
waistcoat. The jerkin was made of leather and also various kinds
of cloth and sometimes is mentioned in inventories. It was worn by
laboring men.
SNOW SHOES were used after a great storm; "which our People do much
use now, that never did before."--_Boston News-Letter_, Jan. 29-Feb.
5, 1704/5.
STOLEN or carried privately away out of the house of Capt. John
Bonner in Cow Lane, near Fort Hill, Boston, sometime before the late
Sickness of his late Wife, or about the time of her decease, which
was the Month of January last: the following Particulars, viz.: Of
his Wife's Wearing apparel three Silk Gowns, one changable colour,
a second flowr'd and the third stript; Three other Gowns, one where
of a double gown, one side silk stuff the other russel, a second
double Gown of silk-stuff and Petticoat of the same, the third a
black Crape Gown and Petticoat of the same; Four other Petticoats,
one changable colour'd silk, a second black flowr'd silk, a third
plain black silk, the fourth a flowr'd Sarge, one Lutstring Hood and
Scarff, three laced Headdresses and one plain, three laced Caps, two
laced Handkerchiefs, three under Caps laced, three white Aprons,
three pair of laced Sleves, two white Muslin Hoods, one Amber
Necklace, one Muff...."--_Boston News-Letter_, Mar. 5-12, 1710/11.
GLOVES. Mens Topt fine Kid Gloves, and womans at 3s. 6d. per Pair,
fine Glaz'd Lamb and Mittens at 2s. 6d. per Pair, and Rough Lamb
for Men and Women at 2s. 6d. per Pair, and further Incouragement to
any that buys in Quantity: To be Sold by Mr Daniel Stevens lately
come from England, At his House in Pudding-Lane, Boston.--_Boston
News-Letter_, Sept. 3-10, 1711.
MAN'S MUFF. Any Person that took up a Man's Muffe, dropt on the
Lord's Day between the Old Meeting House & the South, are desired
to bring it to the Post Office in Boston, and they shall be
Rewarded.--_Boston News-Letter_, Jan. 9-16, 1715/16.
VENETIAN SILKS. Imported from London in the Last Ship, and to be
Sold by Mr. A. Faneuil, Merchant, at his Warehouse in King-Street,
Boston, flowered Venetian Silks of the newest Fashion, in Pieces
that contain enough for a suit for a woman.--_Boston Gazette_, Feb.
8-15, 1719/20.
WIGG. Taken from the Shop of Powers Marriot, Barber, in Boston,
either on the 2d or 3d of August Instant, a light Flaxen Natural
Wigg; parted from the Forehead to the Crown, the narrow Ribband
is of a Red Pink Colour, the Caul is in Rows of Green, Red and
White. Whoever will give Information of the said Wigg, so as it be
restor'd again, they shall have Twenty Shillings Reward.--_Boston
News-Letter_, July 31-Aug. 7, 1729.
PUBLIC VENDUE. To be Sold, at Publick Vendue, by William Nichols
at the Royal Exchange Tavern, in King Street, Boston, on This Day,
beginning (if the Company attend) precisely at 4 o'clock Afternoon,
a Variety of Merchandize; which may be seen till the Sale begins,
viz:
A curious and compleat double Sett of Burnt China, Broad Cloths,
Druggets, Shalloons, Cottons and long Ells, Buckrams, Scots Cloths,
Dowlas, Garlixs, Hollands, Chints, Patches, Qualities, FINE NUNS
THREADS, Garterings, Mens and Womens fine Hose, Mens superfine Silk
Hose, fine Shirt Buttons, Womens superfine Mittens, yellow, blue and
Tabby, a sattin Coverlid, curiously embroidered with Gold Lincey
for Curtains, &c., some Household Goods, such as Case of Draws,
Tables, Paints, Maps, Alabaster Effigies, China, &c. Sundry suits
of Mens Apparel, new and second hand; sundry very good Watches,
Shoes, Boots, Green Tea, Chocolate, and many other Things.--_Boston
News-Letter_, May 18-25, 1738.
WOMEN'S SHOES. To be Sold, at the House of Joseph Henderson in
Winter-Street, Boston. Women's flower'd Silk, Russell & Mourning
Shoes, Cloggs and Pattoons, Lace & Eagins.--_Boston News-Letter_,
Oct. 15-22, 1741.
FABRICS, ETC. To be Sold At Robert Jenkins's on the North-Side
of the Town House in King-Street, Boston,--India Damasks, China
Taffeties, fine India Patches, Chinces and Callicoes, fine
Cambricks, Bag and Sheeting Hollands, Huckabuck and Damask Table
Cloths, with other Linnens of all Sorts, fine Plushes of divers
Colours, Scarlet and other Broad Cloths, Shalloons, figured
Fustians, Ratteens, Whitneys, Duffles, Camblets, Callamancoes,
Floretta's, with a Variety of Haberdashery and Millinary Wares;
Gold and Silver Lace, Crapes, and Sundrys for Mourning; Caps,
Stockings and Gloves of all Sorts, Ozenbrigs, English Sole Leather,
Hogsheads of Earthen Ware, Casks of Red Herrings, Cloaths Flaskets,
China Baskets and Voiders, white Lead & Sieve Bottoms, and Sundry
other Goods.--_Boston News-Letter_, Oct. 29-Nov. 5, 1741.
LEATHER BREECHES. Philip Freeman, lately from London, makes and
sells super-fine black Leather Breeches and Jackets, not to be
discerned from the best super-fine Cloth; likewise makes Buff and
Cloth Colour after the neetest Manner, also makes all sorts of
Gloves by wholesale and retale. The said Freeman lives in Prison
Lane, near the Town House in Boston.--_Boston Gazette_, June 21,
1743.
EMBROIDERED PETTICOAT. On the 11th of Nov. last, was stolen out
of the yard of Mr. Joseph Coit, Joiner in Boston, living in Cross
street, a Woman's Fustian Petticoat, with a large work'd Embroder'd
Border, being Deer, Sheep, Houses, Forrest, &c., so worked. Whoever
has taken the said Petticoat, and will return it to the owner
thereof, or to the Printer, shall have 40s. old Tenor Reward and no
Question ask'd.--_Boston Gazette_, Dec. 19, 1749.
LEATHER STOCKINGS. Made and Sold by Philip Freeman, at the Blew
Glove next the Cornfields in Union Street; Leather Stockings of
different Colours, viz. Black, Cloth colour'd, and Yellow made after
the neatest manner.--_Boston Gazette_, June 25, 1754.
FABRICS USED IN THE EARLY DAYS
The fabrics included in the following list all appear in probate
inventories, court records, or in newspaper advertisements.
_Alamode._ A thin, light, glossy black silk. Used for hoods (1676);
for hat bands and covered with black crape (1702).
_Alepine_, _Alapeen_, _Allapine_. A mixed stuff either of wool and
silk or mohair and cotton.
_Algiers Cloth._ Essex Co. (Mass.), Court Records (1680).
_Attabanies_, Silk. Boston Gazette, June 29, 1729.
_Baize, Bays._ A coarse woolen stuff, having a long nap, formerly,
when made of finer and lighter texture, used as material for
clothing. Used for a waistcoat (1634). Pepys owned a cloak of
Colchester bayze (1667). Red bays was used for underpetticoats
(1732). First introduced into England about 1561.
_Barber's Stuff._ 1-3/4 yards, 5/. Essex Co. (Mass.) Probate (1654).
_Barley Corns, Dresden._ Boston Gazette, Aug. 22, 1757; Boston
News-Letter, July 16, 1761.
BARRATINE. A woven fabric. A black barratine mantua and petticoat
(1689). Barratees (sic) from Frankfort (1745).
_Barronet_, Silk, query, Barrantine.
BEARSKIN. A shaggy kind of woolen cloth used for overcoats.
_Belgrades_, Silk. Boston News-Letter, Mar. 28, 1723.
_Bendoarines_, Striped. Boston Gazette, Aug. 22, 1757.
BENGAL. Piece goods (apparently of different kinds) exported from
Bengal in the seventeenth century. Bengal stripes, striped ginghams,
originally from Bengal were afterwards manufactured at Paisley,
Scotland. "Bengalls and Painted Callicoes used for Hanging of Rooms"
(1680). There are two sorts, fine striped and plain (1696). Thin
slight stuff, made of silk and hair, for women's apparel (1755).
_Berlins_, Double. Boston Gazette, Aug. 22, 1757.
_Bezoarines, Tobine._ Boston Gazette, Aug. 22, 1757.
_Birds' Eyes._ A fabric marked as with birds' eyes. A yellow
birds-eye hood (1665). Olive colored birds' eye silk (1689).
_Bombasine_, _Bombazeen_, _Bombase_. A twilled or corded dress
material, composed of silk and worsted; sometimes of cotton and
worsted or worsted alone. In black, much used for mourning. A
doublet of white bombasyne (1572). Pepys owned a black bombazin suit
(1666).
_Bream._ 4 yards 4/. Essex Co. (Mass.) Probate (1674).
_Bredaws_, Silk. Boston Gazette, Aug. 22, 1757.
_Broglios_, Changeable. Boston Gazette, Aug. 22, 1757.
_Buckrum._ At first a fine linen or cotton fabric; later stiffened
with gum or paste. A cross of blue buckrum for the rood (1475).
Vestments of blue buckam (1552). Our gallants wear fine laces upon
buckram (1665).
_Burdett._ A cotton fabric. A blue burdit mantua and petticoat
(1710).
_Cabbis._ A coarse cheap serge. A carpet of cadys for the table
(1536). A blue saddlecloth bound with green and white caddis (1691).
The varigated cloaths of the Highlanders (1755).
_Calamanco_, _Callimancoe_. A woolen stuff of Flanders, glossy on
the surface, and woven with a satin twill and checkered in the
warp, so that the checks are seen on one side only; much used in
the eighteenth century. Calamanco breeches (1605), diamond buttoned
callamanco hose (1639). His waistcoat of striped calamanco (1693). A
gay calamanco waistcoat (1710). A tawny yellow jerkin turned up with
red calamanco (1760).
_Calico._ Originally a general name for all kinds of cotton cloth
imported from Callicut, India, and from the East. Painted calicuts
they call calmendar (1678). Pepys bought calico for naval flags
(1666). Dressed in white cotton or calico (1740).
_Cambletteens._ Boston News-Letter, Dec. 18, 1760.
_Camlet._ Originally made of silk and camel's hair, hence the name,
but later of silk and wool. Red chamlett (1413). His camlet breeches
(1625). Rich gold or silver chamlets (1634). Watering the grograms
and chambletts (1644). Pepy owned a camelott riding coat (1662).
Camlet was also made with a wavy or watered surface. Water Chamolet
of an azure color (1624). A watered camlet gown (1719).
_Camleteen._ An imitation camlet. Made of fine worsted (1730).
_Cantaloon._ A woolen stuff manufactured in the eighteenth century
in the west of England. Trusses of cantaloons or serges (1711).
Cantaloons from Bristol (1748).
_Canvas._ (1) Strong or coarse unbleached cotton cloth made of hemp
or flax, formerly used for clothing. A coverlet lined with canvas
(1537). (2) The thin canvas that serves women for a ground unto
their cushions or purse work (1611). Working canvas for cushions
(1753). St. Peter's Canvas.
_Carpet._ Originally a thick fabric, commonly of wool, used to cover
tables, beds, etc. Lay carpets about the bed (1513). A carpet of
green cloth for a little folding table (1527). A table wanting a
carpet (1642). A green carpet for the communion table (1702).
_Carsey_, see _Kersey_.
_Castor._ Generally a hat, either of beaver fur or resembling it.
_Challis._ A fine silk and worsted fabric, very pliable and without
gloss, used for dresses, introduced at Norwich, England, about 1632.
_Checks._ A fabric woven or printed in a pattern forming small
squares, i.e., check Kersey. Hungarian checks.
_Cheercoones._ Boston Gazette, June 23, 1729.
_Cheese Cloth._
_Chello._ A fabric imported from India in the eighteenth century.
_Cheney_, _Cheyney_. A worsted or woolen stuff. My red bed of
Phillipp and Cheyney (1650). Colchester cheanyes (1668).
_Cherry derries._ Boston News-Letter, Dec. 18, 1760.
_Coifing Stuff._ 3 yards, 3/4. Essex Co. (Mass.) Probate (1661).
_Copper plate._ A closely woven cotton fabric on which patterns,
landscapes, pictorial representations have been printed from
engraved copper plates; much in fashion during the eighteenth and
early nineteenth centuries.
_Dakaple_, see _Dornick_.
_Darnacle_, see _Dornick_.
_Darnex_, see _Dornick_.
_Dianetts._ Boston Gazette, Aug. 22, 1757.
_Diaper._ Since the fifteenth century a linen fabric (sometimes
with cotton) woven with lines crossing diamond-wise with the spaces
variously filled with lines, a dot or a leaf. A boad cloth of dyaper
(1502), a vestment of linen dyoper (1553), a suit of diaper for his
table (1624).
_Dimity._ A stout cotton fabric, woven with raised stripes or fancy
figures, for bed hangings, etc. A vestment of white demyt (1440),
a hundred camels loaden with silks, dimmeties, etc. (1632). A book
wrapt up in sea green Dimmity (1636). A half bedstead with dimity
and fine shade of worstead works (1710). His waistcoat was white
dimity (1743).
_Dimothy_, see _Dimity_.
_Dornick_, _Darnix_, _Darnacle_. A silk, worsted, woolen or partly
woolen fabric, used for hangings, carpets, vestments, etc. Two old
cushions of white and red dornix and a hanging of dornix (1527),
dornicks for the master's bed chamber (1626), a darnock carpet
(1672).
_Dowlas._ A coarse linen much used in the sixteenth and seventeenth
centuries, originally made in Brittany. Where the said linen cloth
called dowlas and lockrum is made (1536). Dowlas for saffron bags
(1640). Dowlas from Hamborough (1696).
_Draft._ Silk and worsted. 1 piece orange colored worsted draft, £2.
5. 0. Essex Co. (Mass.) Probate (1678). 24 yards flowered silk draft
at 2/. per yard. Essex Co. (Mass.) Probate (1678).
_Drugget._ Formerly a fabric of all wool or mixed with silk or
linen, used for wearing apparel. A pair of druggett courtings
(1580). A drugget suit lined with green (1675). In drugget dressed,
of thirteen pence a yard (1721).
_Ducape._ A plain-wove stout silk fabric of soft texture sometime
woven with a stripe. Its manufacture was introduced into England by
French refugees in 1685. Women's hoods made of ducape (1688).
_Duffel_, _Duffle_. A coarse woolen cloth having a thick nap or
frieze, originally made at Duffel near Antwerp. This fabric is also
called "shag," and by the early traders "trucking cloth." Indian
goods such as duffels, shirts, etc. (1695). A duffel blanket (1699).
A light duffel cloak with silver frogs (1759). Duffel great coats
(1791).
_Durant_, _Durance_. A woolen stuff sometimes called "everlasting,"
a variety of tammy. Both tammy and durant were hot pressed and
glazed.
_Duroy._ A coarse woolen fabric formerly manufactured in the west of
England, similar to tammy. Wearing a grey duroy coat and waistcoat
(1722). Curley duroy.
_Erminettas._ Boston Gazette, May 26, 1755.
_Everlasting._ Another name for durant, a material used in the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries for the dress of sergeants and
catchpoles. In later times a strong twilled woolen stuff, also
called "lasting," and much used for women's shoes.
_Farandine._ A cloth of silk and wool or hair, invented about 1630
by one Ferrand. Pepys mentions her new ferrandine waistcoat (1663).
I must wear black farandine the whole year (1668). Peach colored
farandine (1685).
_Frieze._ A coarse woolen cloth, with a nap, usually on one side
only. A gown of green frieze (1418). A home-spun frieze cloth
(1611). His waistcoat of red frieze (1627). An old calash lined with
green frieze (1765).
_Fugere._ Red satin fuger (1465). Cover of a field bed of fuger
satin yellow and red (1596). A petticoat of fuger satin laid with
silver and gold lace and spangled (1638).
_Fustian._ A coarse cloth made of cotton and flax. His clothing was
black fustian with bends in the sleeves (1450). White fustian for
socks for the Queen (1502). Blankets of fustian (1558). Then shall
the yeoman take fustian and cast it upon the bed and the sheet
likewise ... then lay on the other sheet ... then lay on the over
fustian above (1494).
_Galloway._ Essex Co. (Mass.) Court Records (1681).
_Garlits_, _Garliz_, _Garlix_. Linens made in Gorlitz, Prussian
Silesia. There are several kinds in shades of blue-white and brown.
_Ghenting._ A kind of linen, originally made in Ghent, Flanders.
Used for handkerchiefs, etc.
_Grisette_, _Grizet_. An inferior dress fabric, formerly the common
garb of working girls in France. His doublet was a griset-coat
(1700).
_Grogam_, _Grosgrane_. A coarse fabric of silk, of mohair and wool,
or these mixed with silk; often stiffened with gum. Used for aprons,
cloaks, coats, doublets, gowns and petticoats. My watered grogram
gown (1649). Grograms from Lille (1672).
_Haircloth._ Cloth made of hair and used for tents, towels, and in
drying malt, hops, etc. Every piece of haircloth (1500). Coal sacks
made of hair-cloth (1764).
_Hamald_, _Hamel_, _Hammells_. Homemade fabrics. Narrow hammells.
Boston Gazette, June 30, 1735.
_Harrateen._ A linen fabric used for curtains, bed hangings, etc.
Field bedsteads with crimson harrateen furniture (1711). Harrateen,
Cheney, flowered cotton and checks (1748). For curtains, the best
are linen check harrateen (1825).
_Holland._ A linen fabric, originally made in Holland. When
unbleached called brown holland. A shift of fine holland (1450).
Women cover their head with a coyfe of fine holland linen cloth
(1617). Fine holland handkerchiefs (1660).
_Humanes_ at 18 d. per yard. Essex Co. (Mass.) Court Records (1661).
_Huswives_, _Housewife's Cloth_. A middle grade of linen cloth,
between coarse and fine, for family uses. Howsewife's cloth (1571).
Neither carded wool, flax, or huswives cloth (1625).
_Inkle_, _Incle_, _Incle Manchester_. A narrow linen tape, used for
shoe ties, apron strings, etc. A parcel of paper bound about with
red incle (1686).
_Jeans._ A twilled cotton cloth, a kind of fustian. Jean for my
Lady's stockings (1621). White jean (1766).
_Kenting._ A kind of fine linen cloth originally made in Kent.
Canvas and Kentings (1657). Neckcloths, a sort that come from
Hamborough, made of Kenting thread (1696).
_Kersey._ A coarse, narrow cloth, woven from long wool and usually
ribbed. His stockings were Kersie to the calf and t'other knit
(1607). Trowsers made of Kersey (1664), black Kersie stockings
(1602). Thy Kersie doublet (1714). Kerseys were originally made in
England. Her stockings were of Kersey green as tight as any silk
(1724). Kerseys were used for petticoats and men's clothing.
_Lawn_, _Lane_. A kind of fine linen, resembling cambric. Used for
handkerchiefs, aprons, etc. A coyfe made of a plyte of lawne (1483).
A thin vail of calico lawne (1634), a lawn called Nacar (1578).
_Lemanees._ Boston Gazette, May 26, 1755.
_Linds._ A linen cloth. Kinds of linne or huswife-cloth brought
about by peddlers (1641).
_Linsey_, _Lincey_. In early use a coarse linen fabric. In later
use--Linsey-woolsey. Clothes of linsey (1436). Blue linsey (1583).
_Linsey-woodsey_, _Lindsey-woolsey_. A fabric woven from a mixture
of wool and flax, later a dress material of coarse inferior wool,
woven on a cotton warp. Everyone makes Linsey-woolsey for their
own wearing (New York, 1670). A lindsey-woolsey coat (1749). A
linsey-woolsey petticoat (1777).
_Lockram_, _Lockrum_. A linen fabric of various qualities, for
wearing apparel and household use. Lockram for sheets and smocks and
shirts (1520). Linings of ten penny lockram (1592). His lockram band
sewed to his Linnen shirt (1616). A lockram coife and a blue gown
(1632).
_Lutestrings._ A glossy silk fabric. Good black narrow Lute-Strings
and Alamode silks (1686). A flowing Negligee of white Lutestring
(1767). A pale blue lutestring domino (1768).
_Lungee_, _Lungi_. A cotton fabric from India. Later a richly
colored fabric of silk and cotton. Wrapped a lunge about his middle
(1698). A Bengal lungy or Buggess cloth (1779). Silk lungees. Boston
Gazette, June 23, 1729.
_Manchester._ Cotton fabrics made in Manchester, England. Manchester
cottons and Manchester rugges otherwise named Frices (1552). Linen,
woolen and other goods called Manchester wares (1704). A very showy
striped pink and white Manchester (1777).
_Mantua._ A silk fabric made in Italy. Best broad Italian colored
Mantuas at 6/9 per yard (1709). A scarlet-flowered damask Mantua
petticoat (1760).
_Medrinacks_, _Medrinix_. A coarse canvas used by tailors to stiffen
doublets and collars. A sail cloth, i.e., pole-davie.
_Missenets._ Boston News-Letter, Dec. 18, 1760.
_Mockado._ A kind of cloth much used for clothing in the sixteenth
and seventeenth centuries. Tuft mockado was decorated with small
tufts of wool. It was first made in Flanders and at Norwich,
England, by Flemish refugees. A farmer with his russet frock and
mockado sleeves (1596). Crimson mochadoes to make sleeves (1617). A
rich mockado doublet (1638).
_Molecy._ 2 yards, 12 s. Essex Co. (Mass.) Probate (1672).
_Nankeen._ A cotton cloth originally made at Nankin, China, from
a yellow variety of cotton and afterwards made at Manchester and
elsewhere of ordinary cotton and dyed yellow. Make his breeches of
nankeen (1755). His nankeen small clothes were tied with 16 strings
at each knee (1774).
_Niccanee._ A cotton fabric formerly imported from India. Mentioned
in the London Gazette in 1712.
_Nilla._ A cotton fabric from India. There are two sorts, striped
and plain, by the buyers called Bengals ... used for Gowns and
Pettycoats (1696).
_Noyals_, _Noyles_, _Nowells_. A canvas fabric made at Noyal,
France. Noyals canvas (1662). Vitry and noyals canvas (1721).
_Osnaburg Oznabrig_, _Ossembrike_. A coarse linen cloth formerly
made at Osnabruck, Germany. Ossenbrudge for a towell to the Lye
tabyll (1555). A pair of Oznabrigs trowsers (1732).
_Pack Cloth._ A stout, coarse cloth used for packing. Packed up in a
bundle of pack cloth (1698).
_Padusoy_, _Padaway_. A strong corded or gross-grain silk fabric,
much worn by both sexes in the eighteenth century. _Padusay_ was a
kind of serge made in Padua and imported into England since 1633 or
earlier. A pink plain poudesoy (1734). A laced paduasoy suit (1672).
A petticoat lined with muddy-colored pattissway (1704). A glossy
paduasoy (1730). A fine laced silk waistcoat of blue paduasoy (1741).
_Palmeretts._ Boston Gazette, Aug. 22, 1757.
_Pantolanes._ Essex Co. (Mass.) Court Records (1661).
_Pantossam._ Essex Co. (Mass.) Court Records (1661).
_Paragon._ A kind of double camlet used for dress and upholstery
in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. 12 yards of water
paragon at 5/8 and 5 yards of French green paragon at 25/10 (1618).
Hangings for a room of green paragon (1678). Black paragon for a
gown (1678).
_Parisnet_, Black and White. Boston News-Letter, Dec. 18, 1760.
_Patch._ A kind of highly glazed printed cotton, usually in
bright-colored floral designs, used for window draperies and bed
hangings. Advertised in Boston News-Letter, June 24, 1742. English
and India patches. Boston News-Letter, Dec. 18, 1760.
_Pealong_, White English. Boston Gazette, Mar. 30, 1734.
_Pellony._ Essex Co. (Mass.) Court Records (1680).
_Penistone_, _Penniston_. A coarse woolen cloth made at Penistone,
Co. Yorkshire, England, used for garments, linings, etc. Clothes
called pennystone or forest whites (1552). Red peniston for
petticoats (1616).
_Pentado._ Essex Co. (Mass.) Court Records (1680).
_Perpetuana._ A durable woolen fabric manufactured in England from
the sixteenth century, similar to _everlasting_, _durance_, etc. The
sober perpetuana-suited Puritan (1606). A counterpane for the yellow
perpetuana bed (1648).
_Philip._ A kind of worsted or woolen stuff of common quality. 12
yards of philip and cheney for a coat for Mrs. Howard (1633). My red
bed of Phillip and China (1650).
_Pocking Cloth._ Essex Co. (Mass.) Court Records (1674).
_Poldavy_, _Poledavis_. A coarse canvas or sacking, originally woven
in Brittany, and formerly much used for sailcloth. A canvas of the
best poldavie (1613). Pole-Davies for sails (1642).
_Pompeydones._ Boston Gazette, Aug. 22, 1757.
_Poplin._ A fabric with a silk warp and worsted weft, having a
corded surface. Lined with light colored silk poplin (1737).
_Porstotana._ Essex Co. (Mass.) Court Records (1680).
_Prunella_, _Prenella_. A strong stuff, originally silk, afterwards
worsted, used for clergymen's gowns, and later for the uppers of
women's shoes. Plain black skirts of prunella (1670).
_Rash._ A smooth-surfaced fabric made of silk (_silk rash_) or
worsted (_cloth rash_). A cloak of cloth rash (1592). My silk rash
gown (1597). He had a cloak of rash or else fine cloth (1622).
_Ratteen_, _Rating_. A thick twilled woolen cloth, usually friezed
or with a curled nap, but sometimes dressed; a friezed or drugget. A
cloak lined with a scarlet Ratteen (1685). A ratteen coat I brought
from Dublin (1755). A brown ratteen much worn (1785).
_Romal._ A silk or cotton square or handkerchief sometimes with a
pattern. 12 pieces of Romals or Sea Handkerchiefs (1683). There are
three sorts, silk Romals, Romals Garrub and cotton Romals (1696).
_Russel._ A woolen fabric formerly used for clothing, especially in
the sixteenth century, in various colors; black, green, red, grey,
etc. A woman's kertyl of Russell worsted (1552). A black russel
petticoat (1703).
_Sagathy_, _Sagatheco_. A slight woolen stuff, a kind of serge
or ratteen, sometimes mixed with a little silk. A brown colored
sagathea waistcoat and breeches (1711).
_Sarsenet_, _Sarcenet_. (Saracen cloth). A very fine and soft silk
material made both plain and twilled, in various colors. Curtains
of russet sarsenet fringed with silk (1497). A doublet lined with
sarcenet (1542). Some new fashion petticoats of sarcenett (1662). A
scarlet coat lined with green sarcenet (1687).
_Satinette_, _Satinet_. An imitation of satin woven in silk or silk
and cotton. A cloth-colored silk sattinet gown and petticoat (1703).
A thin satin chiefly used by the ladies for summer nightgowns, &c.
and usually striped (1728).
_Satinisco._ An inferior quality of satin. His means afford him
mock-velvet or satinisco (1615). Also there were stuffs called
perpetuano, satinisco, bombicino, Italicino, etc. (1661).
_Say._ Cloth of a fine texture resembling serge; in the sixteenth
century sometimes partly of silk and subsequently entirely of wool.
A kirtle of silky say (1519). A long worn short cloak lined with say
(1659). Say is a very light crossed stuff, all wool, much used for
linings, and by the Quakers for aprons, for which purpose it usually
is dyed green (1728). It was also used for curtains and petticoats.
_Scotch Cloth._ A texture resembling lawn, but cheaper, said to
have been made of nettle fibre. A sort of sleasey soft cloth ...
much used for linens for beds and for window curtains (1696).
_Sempiternum._ A woolen cloth made in the seventeenth century and
similar to perpetuana. See _Everlasting_.
_Shag._ A cloth having a velvet nap on one side, usually of worsted,
but sometimes of silk. Crimson shag for winter clothes (1623). A
cushion of red shag (1725).
_Shalloon._ A closely woven woolen material used for linings.
Instead of shalloon for lining men's coats, sometimes use a glazed
calico (1678).
_Sleazy._ An abbreviated form of silesia. A linen that took its name
from Silesia in Hamborough, and not because it wore sleasy (1696). A
piece of Slesey (1706).
_Soosey._ A mixed, striped fabric of silk and cotton made in India.
Pelongs, ginghams and sooseys (1725).
_Stammel._ A coarse woolen cloth, or linsey-woolsey, usually
dyed red. In summer, a scarlet petticoat made of stammel or
linsey-woolsey (1542). His table with stammel, or some other carpet
was neatly covered (1665). The shade of red with which this cloth
was usually dyed was called stammel color.
_Swanskin_, _Swanikins_. A fine, thick flannel, so called on account
of its extraordinary whiteness. The swan-skin coverlet and cambrick
sheets (1610).
_Tabby._ Named for a quarter of Bagdad where the stuff was woven. A
general term for a silk taffeta, applied originally to the striped
patterns, but afterwards applied also to silks of uniform color
waved or watered. The bride and bridegroom were both clothed in
white tabby (1654). A child's mantle of a sky-colored tabby (1696).
A pale blue watered tabby (1760). Rich Morrello Tabbies. (Boston
Gazette, March 25, 1734).
_Tabling._ Material for table cloths; table linen, Diaper for
tabling (1640). 12 yards tabling at 2/6 per yard. Essex Co. (Mass.)
Probate (1678).
_Tamarine._ A kind of woolen cloth. A piece of ash-colored wooley
Tamarine striped with black (1691).
_Tammy._ A fine worsted cloth of good quality, often with a glazed
finish. All other kersies, bayes, tammies, sayes, rashes, etc.
(1665). A sort of worsted-stuff which lies cockled (1730). Her dress
a light drab lined with blue tammy (1758). A red tammy petticoat
(1678). Strain it off through a tammy (1769).
_Tandem._ A kind of linen, classed among Silesia linens. Yard wide
tandems for sale (1755). Quadruple tandems (1783).
_Thick Sets._ A stout, twilled cotton cloth with a short very close
nap: a kind of fustian. A Manchester thickset on his back (1756).
_Ticklenburg._ Named for a town in Westphalia. A kind of coarse
linen, generally very uneven, almost twice as strong as osnaburgs,
much sold in England. About 1800 the name was always stamped on the
cloth.
_Tiffany._ A kind of thin transparent silk; also a transparent gauze
muslin, cobweb lawn. Shewed their naked arms through false sleeves
of tiffany (1645). Black tiffany for mourning (1685).
_Tow Cloth._ A coarse cloth made from tow, i.e., the short fibres of
flax combed out by the hetchell, and made into bags or very coarse
clothing. Ropes also were made of tow.
_Tobine._ Probably a variant of tabby. With lustre shine in simple
lutestring or tobine (1755). Lutestring tobines which commonly are
striped with flowers in the warp and sometimes between the tobine
stripes, with brocaded sprigs (1799). A stout twilled silk (1858).
_Trading Cloth_, see _Duffell_.
_Turynetts._ Boston Gazette, Aug. 22, 1757.
_Venetians._ A closely woven cloth having a fine twilled surface,
used as a suiting or dress material.
_Villaranes._ Essex Co. (Mass.) Court Records (1661).
_Vitry_, _Vittery_. A kind of light durable canvas. Vandolose
[vandelas] or vitrie canvas the ell, 10s. (1612). Narrow vandales or
vittry canvas (1640).
_Water Paragon_, see _Paragon_.
_Witney_, _Whitney_. A heavy, loose woolen cloth with a nap made up
into blankets at Witney, Co. Oxford, England. Also, formerly, a
cloth or coating made there. True Witney broadcloth, with its shag
unshorn (1716). Fine Whitneys at 53 s. a yard, coarse Whitneys at 28
s. (1737).
In the Inventory of the Estate of Henry Landis of Boston,
shopkeeper, taken Dec. 17, 1651, the following fabrics are listed,
viz.:
Black Turky tamet, Green Italiano
Turkie mohaire Say
Green English Tamett Red Calico
Cotton cloth Red Serge
Kersey Cheny
Yellow cotton Double Cheny
Linsie woolsey Red satinesco
English mohaire Olive serge
Mixed Italiano Holland
Grey ditto Tufted Holland
Broadcloth Fine Holland
Green cotton cloth Nuns Holland
Course Yorkshire Kersey Broad dowlas
Tamy Cheny Dowlas
Padway serge Broad lining
Adretto Lockrum
Hair Camelion White Calico
Castelano 1 pr dimity drawers
Herico Italiano 1 pr girls bodys
White serge Addevetto
Perpetuano 2 childs waistcoats at 9 d.
Best ditto 9 tawney bonnets at 16 d.
Mixed serge 46 pr ear wiers at 4 d.
Cloth 17 calico neck cloths at 12 d.
Kersey 2 gro tin buttons at 2/6.
Italiano 9 yds silk galoon at 2-1/2 d.
Sad hair coloured Italiano Breeches bottons
Taunton serge Silk breast buttons
Mixed stuff Hair buttons
Green mixed serge Great silk buttons
Herico Kersey A great variety of silk and bone lace
Green Tamy 1 black satin cap, 3/.
--_Suffolk Co. Probate Records_, Vol. II, p. 127.