way, with the brightest anticipations. Our machine was again in motion;
I never felt stronger, and at every bucket-full Tracy would give his
dipper an extra flourish, his India-rubber suspender fairly grinning
with excitement. We did not fear for the result, and kept our machine in
motion until noon, when on raising the screen we found we had made about
fifty cents. We had, however, not yet reached the granite, and our
spirits were not dampened. We worked during the afternoon, reaching and
scraping the granite, and at night would have been one dollar richer
than in the morning, if some one had been boarding us gratis. We had
exhausted our lead and took our implements back to the first scene of
operations. We continued to labor hard during the week, and Saturday
night, on making out our balance sheet, we had earned $13.50 each, which
was less than the cost of our provisions. It is said that prosperity
begets want, and it was precisely so in our case. On Sunday morning we
went to the store, purchased flour at seventy-five cents per pound, and
a frying-pan for $5, determined to spend the day in feasting.
A team had just arrived from Sacramento with eight fortunate
individuals, who had heard that this was the place where men were
getting $1,500 per hour, and as they had just arrived from the States,
they were willing to _commence even at that rate_. The teamster informed
me that Bent, Harry, and Sam “_put in_” at Sacramento, in “stress of
weather,” having got on a drunken spree, and spent the $200. On our
arrival at the encampment Tracy took his basket, put in some water,
stirred in flour, and was soon using our frying-pan. I practiced turning
the cakes, and soon became so skilled that I could hit the pan every
time. We held a consultation. Tracy was determined to continue mining,
but I resolved to go to Sacramento and prepare to embark in something
that would pay better. A few individuals were doing well in the mines,
and there were comparatively but few. Ours was about the average
success. The mass were merely paying expenses. There were a thousand
extravagant stories constantly circulating, of men who had made fortunes
in an hour, and Mr. Eccles did really in that length of time, get $1,500
in our immediate vicinity. Each one naturally considered himself
destined to be one of the fortunate ones, and if he has only made a
dollar to-day, he is quite confident that he will make a hundred
to-morrow, or, perhaps, a thousand. The same influences operate upon the
mind as in gambling, and chances of success are about equal, although
mining is not attended with the same disastrous results.
The country is rich in gold, the supply is inexhaustible. The entire
soil of the mountainous parts is impregnated with it. It seems an
ingredient or constituent of the soil. Still, in its natural
distribution, it is not sufficiently abundant to pay for collecting. It
is found most plentifully on bars in the rivers, where it is deposited
during freshets, or at the confluence of ravines, which sweep down the
side of the mountains uniting at the base, where the gold naturally
deposits during the rainy season. “Bars,” in California _parlance_, are
the low tongues of land at abrupt bends in the river. (See Plate.) They
are generally formed in whole, or in part by freshets. During the rainy
season, torrents rush down the sides of the mountains, freighted with
gold, dirt and stones, which, when coming in contact with the main
stream, are borne along until an abrupt bend in the river checks the
current, an eddy sets back a certain distance, at which point the heavy
substances are deposited. A canal is cut across the root of the tongue,
at the head of which a dam is thrown across the river, which turns the
water from its natural channel, enabling miners to work below
water-mark.
Chapter Fifteenth.
START FOR SACRAMENTO CITY--THE “NIAGARA CO.”--FREDERIC JEROME--A
LOVE-CHASE--HEROINE UNDER A BLANKET--SUSPICIOUS BOOTS--PART OF A
LADY’S HAT FOUND--A BALL--ARRIVAL AT SACRAMENTO CITY--POOR
ACCOMMODATIONS--RETURN TO THE INTERIOR--A CHASE--A NEW YORK
MERCHANT--BEALS’ BAR--EMBARK IN TRADE--A MOUNTAINEER--INDIAN
CHARACTERISTICS.
On Monday morning I bade Tracy farewell, and started for Sacramento,
promising to report at the earliest possible moment. After walking four
miles I was taken sick and stopped at a tent until morning, when,
feeling better, I left my rifle and pursued my journey. The heat was
excessive, and the road a dreary one, with nothing to break the
monotony. I exhausted the contents of my flask and was soon suffering
with thirst; I met a gentlemen who supplied me with water, and I moved
on. After traveling some twelve miles, as I was pursuing my course I was
surprised at hearing a voice, and immediately heard my name called. I
looked up and saw at a short distance from the road, two tents, and on
approaching, found a company of gentlemen of Lockport, N. Y., who had
been fellow passengers up the Pacific. They had started for the
interior, and on reaching this point their wagon broke down, the team
strayed, and left them no alternative but to encamp. As they were in the
immediate vicinity of the river, they had commenced mining, and I am
happy to add, with unexpected success. This they richly deserved, for a
more gentlemanly, hospitable and energetic set of men, it was never my
fortune to fall in with. They styled themselves the “Niagara Co.,” and I
have had the pleasure of meeting one of the gentlemen in this city since
my return. At their solicitation I visited their works, and remained
over night, and when I parted with them in the morning, it was like
parting with brothers.
I started at day-break and after traveling an hour, fell in with
Frederick Jerome, well known for his heroic efforts, in saving the
passengers of the Ocean Monarch. He and his companions were bound for
the interior. I soon came out on the margin of a prairie, some four
miles in diameter, the road running through its center; I had but just
entered upon it, when I discovered the track of a--not a grizzly bear,
dear reader, but of a female. I did really discover the track of a
female in California. It may seem a trivial circumstance to you, it was
not so to me. A galvanic battery would not have created a more startling
sensation, and I was half-tempted to faint in honor of the occasion. It
was a small foot, encased in a slipper of the finest mould; then there
was such a witching air about it, so pert, the toes turned a little out,
the heel set down with just enough decision, and a something coquettish
in the way she raised it up; then there was a sprightliness and
elasticity, quite perceptible. I soon came to where she had turned
round, as if she had been expecting me, and without designing to be
silly, I soon found myself on a “round trot.” I hurried on, buried in
thought and conjecture, sometimes imagining it some one I had seen in
the States; the track seemed familiar. Sometimes I would remember having
met her at a cotillon party, and then I would notice a change in the
track, as if she had been thinking of the same thing, and taking some of
the “old steps;” I could see that the toe had removed a greater quantity
of dust, as if she had been taking the standing, instead of the
“chessa”; balance. But the distance between us was fearful. I could see
several miles and could not see her, and she might take another road. As
these thoughts were running through my mind, I would come to myself, and
find myself running at the top of my speed, the perspiration oozing from
every pore. I was fast gaining the opposite side, and hope was in the
ascendant.
I began to think of my personal appearance, which is in such cases of
the most importance. After a careful examination, I came to the
conclusion that it was not very flattering. I had not shaved in six
months; I had on an under-shirt and cravat, pantaloons and long boots, a
Panama hat, blue flannel shirt outside, over which was a belt with a
sheath-knife, and a blue sash. I had seen men as badly dressed as
myself. I was in hope she had, and hurried on. I soon reached the
forest, and was on the _qui vive_, scanning every rock and log,
expecting to find her at rest after her fatiguing walk across the
prairie. I walked on, examining every shade, without seeing her. I soon
saw at some distance a thick grove of underwood, the road passing
through it, and I thought I saw a smoke rising beyond it. I soon arrived
near, approaching very cautiously, and keeping an eye in the direction
of the smoke. I was not frightened, but my nervous system was in an
unusual state of agitation. I wiped off the perspiration, and continued
my cautious approach. I was soon sufficiently near to see what I at
first thought to be a tent, but on a nearer examination proved to be
blankets thrown over a pole, and sweeping the ground. I saw no one. I
approached still nearer, and came to the conclusion that she was under
the blankets taking her morning _siesta_. I still drew nearer, and
stopped to take a survey of the premises. Just beyond the blankets I saw
what appeared to be two pairs of heavy boots, and on changing my
position they both _appeared_ to have men in them. I neither fainted,
nor ran, but I walked on noiselessly to a proper distance and sat down
to rest. The men were sleeping on the ground, and I have no doubt the
lady was doing the same under her temporary shelter. They had
undoubtedly been to the mines, and perhaps became disheartened, and were
returning to town.
The scarcity of ladies in California, is the theme of much conversation.
There is an anecdote almost universally told in connection with the
subject; it is as follows: At a certain point in the mineral regions,
part of a lady’s hat was discovered, which caused so much excitement and
joy, that it was immediately decided to have a ball on the spot, in
honor of the event. Invitations were immediately distributed throughout
the country, and, on the appointed day, three hundred miners assembled,
each dressed in a red flannel shirt, and accompanied by a bottle of
brandy. In the _exact spot_ was driven a stick, five feet high, on the
top of which was placed _the_ hat, and around it was wrapped a flannel
blanket. It was made to represent, as nearly as possible, a female form.
By the side of this was placed a miner’s cradle, or machine, in which
was placed a smoked ham, also wrapped in a flannel blanket. At the close
of each dance the president of the meeting would rock the cradle, while
the secretary would pour a bottle of brandy down the back of the lady’s
neck. The ball lasted two days, at the end of which time the ground was
surveyed into town-lots, and called Auburn. It has been spoken of in a
former chapter.
After waiting an hour without discovering any signs of life in the camp,
the sun admonished me that I must move on. I pursued my lonely walk
until 11 o’clock, P.M., when I reached the American river. I prepared
myself and waded through, and in one hour was passing Sutter’s Fort. The
dogs appeared to be on duty, and hailed me with such ferocity that I
have no doubt they thought I meditated an attack. I hurried on, and at
midnight reached Sacramento city. I found it impossible to get lodgings,
and was obliged to seek shelter under some one of the large oaks in the
suburbs of the town. Even here it was difficult to find a spot
unoccupied. I found a place, however, by going some distance, and spread
my blanket with a fair prospect of having the bed all to myself. It had
been excessively hot during the day, but now a heavy dew had fallen, the
air was cold, and after laying an hour found myself stiff and lame, and
chilled to the very heart. I arose, but found it difficult to walk. I
succeeded in reaching an unfinished house, into which I crawled, and
spent the balance of the night in a vain effort to sleep.
In the morning I took a survey of the town, purchased a horse, and
prepared for another incursion into the interior. A friend wished to
accompany me, and at 4 o’clock, P.M., we were under way. We crossed the
river and took our course across the plain in the direction of the great
bend of the American River. Late in the afternoon, as we were galloping
along, we fell in with a pack of wolves (coyotas,) and as we were both
well mounted we were fast overhauling them. They were crazy with fright,
making two or three tremendous leaps, then turning to look at us, their
alarm would increase and they would bound away. We were close upon them
when my companion’s girth broke, and we were obliged to give up the
chase. If they have _ever_ come to the conclusion to stop, I am
confident it was not in that immediate vicinity, for I never saw animals
so frightened. What they were doing when we came upon them, I am unable
to say. It has been suggested that they may have been tuning
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
BROWN & SEVERIN LITH.
G. W. LEWIS PRINT.
SOUTH FORK, AMERICAN RIVER.]
their instruments preparatory to their evening concert. I was disposed
to fall in with this suggestion, from the fact, that _that_ was the only
night during my stay in the country, that I did not listen to their
music. If they took the trouble to stick up a notice of postponement, it
read, undoubtedly, as follows: “Postponed indefinitely on account of a
fright in the family.”
We resumed our journey and at 10 P.M., arrived at the bend. After
watering our horses we secured the ends of their lassos, and taking our
supper, we rolled ourselves in our blankets. In the morning we directed
our course towards Beal’s Bar, a higher point on the river. As we were
galloping along (California horses cannot trot) we met a gentleman whom
I recognized as a New York acquaintance. He was a New York merchant, and
when at home, somewhat noted for his dashing appearance. His appearance
on this occasion was so extremely ludicrous, I could not withstand the
temptation of taking a sketch. (See Plate.) He was returning from the
mines, and at the time we came upon him, a coyota was casting
inquisitive glances in that direction, as if in doubt whether it was
really a man, or a fellow-member of the _California Harmonic Society_.
He had on a slouched hat, which, together with his whiskers and
moustache, almost hid his face; a mariner’s shirt, and a pair of
drawers, which were, on this occasion, serving in the place of
pantaloons, being _suspended_ by two strips of a woolen blanket, crossed
in front. A rifle on his shoulder, pipe in his mouth, and blankets in
hand, he looked the very personation of a corn-field effigy.
After a short detention we moved on, arriving at the Bar at 12 M. After
dinner we went down to the scene of operations, my friend wishing to
purchase an interest. The bar was divided into thirty shares, owned by
as many individuals. They worked as a company and divided the proceeds
at night. Shares were commanding $2,800 each. Beal’s Bar was at this
time paying about $20 per day to a man. They had, however, expended a
large amount of money in turning the water from the channel. After
remaining two hours, we started in the direction of the Mormon Bar,
where we arrived at 9 P.M. Tracy was in an ecstasy. He provided supper
with great alacrity, and even let my friend occupy half his bed.
I had resolved to engage in the mercantile business at this point, and
having heard the present store was for sale, I called on the proprietor
for his terms. They did not appear favorable and I started the next
morning for Sacramento, accompanied by my friend. We arrived that
evening, and the next morning I commenced buying a stock. I was soon on
my return. We were three days in reaching our destination, and such a
time! We had a span of mules and a span of horses before the wagon, and
a nice matched span of drivers. I paid $20 for an extra team on the
route, and finally reached our destination. I deposited my goods under a
tree, having canvas with which I designed to erect a store. The next
morning I succeeded in buying out the other store, and before night had
possession. I now felt that I had the helm of a craft I knew how to
manage, and was fairly at sea. I immediately hired a Frenchman as cook
at $50 per week, and Tracy became a guest. I was now pleasantly
situated, with every prospect of success. I soon purchased a share in
the bar--paid $1,100. At this time it was yielding abundantly, and I had
every assurance of an ample remuneration. Throughout the country there
is a strong propensity for gambling. People appear to engage in it for
want of other amusement. The store I had purchased had been used for the
purpose every night since its construction, but it became so great a
nuisance, I was obliged to prohibit it excepting on particular
occasions.
I here had an opportunity of seeing many of those strange adventurers
who are met with only on the extreme frontiers, and who have as great an
aversion to law and civilization as they have to the manacles of a
prison. I had had the store but a few days, when one of these strange
beings crossed my path. I must confess there was nothing, at first
sight, to attract my admiration. About nine in the morning I saw,
approaching the store, a strange looking being, mounted on a gray horse,
a _poncho_ thrown over his shoulder, over which was slung a huge rifle,
skins wrapped around his legs, a pair of Mexican spurs on, and a
slouched hat which partially obscured his copper complexion. As he rode
up, Tracy recognized him as an old mountaineer, whom he had seen in
Santa Fé. After the recognition, Tracy says “Jim! whose horse is that?”
Jim--“I’ll be G--d d--nd to H--ll if I know.” Tracy--“where did you get
him?” Jim--“_I stole him from an Indian, by G--d._” I have no doubt his
declarations were true, for he claimed the credit (and I was informed he
deserved it) of being the most accomplished horse-thief in all New
Mexico. He informed Tracy that he was “dead broke” and hungry, and
wished him to ask me for something to eat. I requested Prince to get him
some breakfast, after which he was as rich as Crœsus, and commenced
giving me his life. It was a most exciting romance, interspersed with
thrilling adventures and “hair-breadth ’scapes.” I was convinced that
his story, in the main, was true, not because he _swore_ to it all, but
because Tracy was acquainted with the most important facts. He was a
mixture of the negro, Indian, and Anglo-Saxon blood, and born in New
Mexico. His earliest training was in the art of horse and mule stealing,
in which art he had become a connaisseur. He commenced by stealing one
at a time, and soon became so proficient, that he could steal whole
droves with perfect impunity. He declared that he furnished General
Taylor’s army with most of their horses and mules, and that he could
raise two thousand head, with twelve hours’ notice--sometimes stealing
of the Indians, and at others of the Mexicans. Sometimes he would
associate with the whites, and at others with the natives. He was for
years, chief of the Crow Indians, and still has a wife and family with
them. He led them in numerous battles against the neighboring tribes,
alternately winning and losing. He was engaged in the Texan war, was at
the battle of San Jacinto, and at most of the battles fought by General
Taylor. He was never enrolled in the army, but always fought on his “own
hook,” and ready to chase the party that was defeated. He took a middle
ground, and was always _just in time_ to join the victorious party.
Indians in their wars have their own peculiar signs and marks by which
warriors of the same tribe are informed of the locality of the enemy.
These signs are made on the trees, rocks, earth, &c., &c. A detachment
of a thousand warriors will start in the evening, and after arriving at
a certain point, separate, to scour the country in different directions,
and meet at a concerted point, when the moon is at a certain altitude.
The party arriving first, drops an arrow, with the point in the
direction they have taken; the latter party moving in that direction
soon find their friends. But if the enemy is on the alert, the first
arrow is dropped, and soon another, which is found at right angles with
the first. This is a caution. They move on still farther in the
direction indicated by the first arrow, and if there is danger they find
two arrows, one across the other. They now stop and secrete themselves.
Soon one of the first party approaches them cautiously and informs them
of the position of the enemy. In cases of storm, when the sun is hidden,
they resort to other indications for the point of compass. They find the
moss much thicker on the north side of trees and rocks, than on the
south. They also cut into the trees and find the annual growth much
thicker on the south, than on the north side. Jim’s legs had the
appearance of being bound with cords under the skin, in consequence of
the general rupture of the blood vessels. He says he was taken prisoner
by the Indians, and in making his escape was chased ninety miles,
without stopping for food or rest. The condition of his limbs then
compelled him to stop, and secrete himself, where, in consequence of his
lameness, he was obliged to remain for three weeks subsisting on roots.
Jim, with his other accomplishments, was considered one of the best
“_monte_” dealers in Mexico. On visiting the frontier towns, he would
spend his time in gambling. Sometimes he would win several thousand
dollars in one night, and the next day he would have every man drunk in
town; what he could not spend in drink, he would give to the poor, or to
his friends. Money was an incumbrance to which he would not submit.
After remaining two or three days he mounted his horse and started up
the river, designing, as I supposed, not to return.
Chapter Sixteenth.
THE MORMONS--THE ATTEMPTED MURDER OF GOV. BOGGS--CANALLING MORMON
BAR--FALSE THEORIES IN REFERENCE TO GOLD DEPOSITS--INFLUENCE OF
AMASA LYMAN, “THE PROPHET”--EXCITING SCENE--JIM RETURNS--A MONTE
BANK “TAPPED”--JIM’S ADVENT AT SACRAMENTO CITY.
My immediate neighbors were mostly Mormons, headed by Amasa Lyman, one
of “the twelve.” The person who shot Gov. Boggs, of Missouri, was also
here, under an assumed name. It will be remembered that at the time of
the Mormon disturbance in Missouri, it was thought by them that Gov.
Boggs connived at their persecution, and several attempts were made upon
his life. Scofield, alias, “Orin Porter,” a reckless, daring fellow,
loaded a pistol and went to his house; it was in the evening; the
Governor was sitting by the light reading a paper. Porter went to the
back window, and aiming at his head, discharged the pistol, the ball
taking effect in the back part of his head. Porter deliberately laid the
pistol on the window-sill, and left. The wound did not prove mortal, and
at the time of which I am writing, Gov. B., and two sons, were in
California. They had heard of Porter’s rendezvous, and were supposed to
be in search of him. He went armed with a brace of revolvers, and one of
duelling pistols; he had a dog that was constantly with him, sleeping
with him at night to give the alarm in case of danger. He declared his
determination to sell his life dearly if attacked. He was much esteemed
by the “_faithful_” for his heroism in the above act, consequently they
kept an eye to his safety, keeping him informed of the whereabouts of
the enemy.