we made fast to the bank at Sacramento city. This is at the junction of
the American river with the Sacramento, 150 miles from San Francisco.
Here, all was confusion and dust, each generating the other. This is the
point from which the first move is made, by land, for the mines, and
every man was on the run; mule-teams were moving in every direction,
some loading, others preparing to load, each surrounded by a halo of
dust which rendered mules and driver invisible. We were just in time to
find one tree unoccupied, consequently settled down and commenced
“keeping house.” We designed to remain in town until the next morning.
(See Plate.) This is my own tent. At this time, there were about one
hundred houses and tents in town; but it seemed that every man landed
with a house, and put it up the, same day. Our brig had no less than
thirteen on board, finished even to the glazing. Goods of every
description were piled up on the river-bank, awaiting the carman. The
owners were, in many instances, obliged to erect temporary shelters and
sell them on the ground.
I met several persons who had been in the mines and seen the “Elephant.”
Among others, a fellow passenger on the “Niantic.” He had been in the
country two weeks, and in the mines half an hour. He had just returned,
and was traveling through town trying to sell his utensils, preparatory
to returning to the States. He was completely decorated with his wares,
and looked like a country kitchen in disorder. He had a pair of grained
boots and a smoked ham in one hand, a piece of perforated sheet-iron, a
coffee-pot and frying-pan in the other, a pair of long India Rubber
boots, with pants attached, thrown over one shoulder, and a pair of
blankets under the arm. Over the other shoulder, was a long-handled
shovel, from which was suspended a camp-kettle, containing a pepper-box,
a pair of mining shoes, a piece of smoked beef, a Spanish grammar,
several sea-biscuit, a pick-axe without a handle, and one pound each of
sugar, coffee and bar-soap. All the above were offered at cost “_to
close the concern_.” Every thing here was on the highest key. The town
was only two months old, and lots were commanding New York prices. I was
advised to embark in trade; but my heart was in the high-land, and the
next morning at nine o’clock, we were moving for the interior, a party
of a dozen having hired a six mule-team.
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111. NASSAU ST. N. Y.
SUTTERS FORT
1849]
Chapter Twelve.
SUTTER’S FORT--A HERD OF CATTLE--“LASSOING”--RIO DE LOS
AMERICANOS--A DISAPPOINTED HUNTER--A CALIFORNIAN SERENADE--A MULE
AND HIS RIDER--PARTING COMPANY--THIRST--SERENADES SUPPORTED BY
DIRECT TAXATION--SIERRA NEVADAS.
We drove out a mile, to the margin of an extensive plain, where we
stopped at a well, filled our flasks, and moved on, a gentleman who had
a friend in the hospital at the fort, and myself, going in advance of
the team. The fort at the time of its construction, was an extensive
work, but now it is all in ruins excepting the inner inclosure, in which
are situated the dwelling, hospital and out-houses. (See Plate). It is
constructed of adobes, or unburned brick, prepared and laid up by Indian
labor; and I will here remark, that the Indians on the ranchos in
California, are considered as stock, and are sold with it as cattle, and
the purchaser has the right to work them on the rancho, or take them
into the mines. They are extremely squalid in appearance, and in the
most abject servitude. I have never found the natives, anywhere, in a
condition so degraded. We found the sick man in a very feeble state,
having been in the hospital six weeks with dysentery, which he had
contracted in the mines; and at this time there was but little hope of
his recovery.
The fort is situated in the midst of an extensive plain, three miles
from Sacramento city, and the same distance from the ferry and ford of
the American river, (Rio Del Americano). It is said the proprietor, in
one season, harvested nearly two thousand acres of wheat. At some
distance back of the fort we saw grazing one of those immense herds of
cattle for which California has been celebrated, (see Plate,) estimated
at from two to three thousand head. Before the gold was discovered hides
and tallow were the only articles of export, and cattle were raised and
slaughtered for these articles alone. They run in large herds, feeding
on the marshes in summer, and on the plains during the rainy season,
kept from the grain by ditches and embankments, with which the fields
are surrounded. They receive no care from the proprietors, and
consequently are shy, and taken only with the “lasso.” These are made of
raw hide, cut and platted like a whip-lash about fifty feet in length,
and the size of the finger. It has a small loop or pully in one end,
through which the other is passed and drawn up to a coil about five feet
in diameter. The other end is then fastened to the pommel of the saddle;
the rider taking the coil in his right hand coils the balance to the
same size, and mounts.
There are probably no better horsemen in the world, not excepting the
Cossacks, than the whites, half-breeds, and some of the Indians of
California. It has been said, that their only homes are upon the backs
of their horses, and nothing could possibly exceed the spirit and
reckless daring displayed on an occasion like this. Their dresses are
extremely picturesque. A high crowned hat with a black glazed covering,
trimmed with a gold-lace band and bell-buttons; a hunting shirt fastened
at the waist by a blue or red sash, and a belt containing a brace of
pistols, black velvet breeches, open at the side of the leg, the edges
trimmed with bell-buttons, showing the white drawers underneath. Below
the knee the leg is dressed in tanned skins, which are wound around and
fastened with strings; a pair of boots with a pair of massive iron
spurs, trimmed with heavy chains; the hind tree, as well as the pommel
of the saddle, rises quite abruptly, enabling one to retain his seat
either at a rear or plunge of his horse; the pommel terminating in an
eagle’s head, which prevents the lasso from slipping from the neck. The
trimming of the saddle covers the entire back of the horse, the stirrups
are of wood, made very large, with a leather covering in front,
protecting the foot and leg from mud, brush, &c.; the bridle has a heavy
iron bit and generally but one rein.
Thus mounted, a party of fifteen or twenty will approach a herd of
cattle, horses, or elk, as the case may be. As they approach the herd
takes fright, one snorts and starts, which is a signal for all, and they
dash away. The horsemen, each selecting his victim, now bear down upon
them with the speed of lightning. The herd, now aware of their pursuit,
redouble
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
REAR OF SUTTERS FORT,
_during the spring months_.]
their energies, straining every nerve, the earth fairly quaking beneath
their hoofs. The horses, as they near, display as much enthusiasm as
their riders, and seem to scorn the very earth. They are now upon them.
The herd, frantic and dismayed, begin to scatter. The horse now sees his
victim and bounds with the most reckless impetuosity. The horseman, now
rising in his saddle, throws his weight into the left stirrup, and with
his right hand swings the lasso until the coil is sufficiently open,
when it flies with the velocity and precision of an arrow, taking effect
around the horns or neck of the victim. The horse, understanding the
business, now slackens his speed, and prepares for the first shock, by
taking a bracing position. The victim straitens the lasso, bounds into
the air, and falls to the ground. The horseman dismounts, keeping his
left foot in the stirrup, to help counteract the frantic throes of the
victim which is now lacerated by balls from his pistols. Sometimes in
its phrenzy of madness the victim rushes upon his pursuers, causing a
precipitate retreat, and not unfrequently both horse and rider fall
victims to their own temerity.
As our team had not yet arrived, we walked on one mile to Grime’s fort,
a similar structure, and I believe the owner is a claimant of Sutter’s
claim. We walked on to the river, prepared ourselves and waded through.
On the opposite side, as we ascended the bank, we found ourselves on the
margin of a plain, stretching away as far as the eye could reach, with
nothing but an occasional oak to relieve the monotony. On the bank, a
short distance above, is a rancho, to which belongs the ferry, used only
during high water. This rancho belongs to the Sutter estate. There are
several thousand _head_ of cattle and horses belonging to it, and about
two hundred head of Indians. The soil has the appearance of being
extremely fertile, but at this time vegetation was parched with drought.
Sutter claims most of the country drained by the Sacramento and its
branches, which is all, of any agricultural value, in the north part of
the State.
Our team soon came up, and our driver informed us that it was ten miles
to the next water, consequently we were obliged to encamp on the bank of
the river, notwithstanding it was only 3 o’clock, P.M. We had averaged
one mile per hour. I loaded my rifle and went down the river to hunt; I
had promised myself a supper of wild duck, but they proved to be, on
that particular day, all crows, and I compensated myself in part by
picking a quantity of grapes. These were put into our camp-kettle and
served up for supper. We thought them delicious, but the next morning,
to our regret, we learned that we had forgotten to sweeten them. Late in
the afternoon, a party of Indians started, fully equipped, to lasso
horses, that were herding on the bottom lands of the Sacramento, six
miles distant. They rode at the top of their speed, the horse and rider
seeming moved by the same impulse. At night we spread our blankets in
the open air. Some one of the party had been throwing out insinuations
reflecting upon the character of the grizzly bear, that were said to
abound in our immediate vicinity; not only that they were in the habit
of “running around nights,” but that they had a tendency to cannibalism.
One of the party took a particular fancy to my rifle; whether it was the
beauty of the piece, his predilection for the owner, or the fiery
appearance of the cap, that stole his affections, I am not prepared to
say. He folded it in his blanket and seemed to sleep the better for it.
Soon after dark the California serenade commenced. The performers being
two packs of wolves, the prairie (coyotas) and large gray wolf, each
carrying a part, and in the latter were incorporated some of the best
alto voices I ever heard. We were aroused early in the morning by a
member of the above choir, who passed over the foot of our bed.
After breakfast we filled our flasks with water from the river and
started. Our team travelled in a cloud of dust which hid them from our
view. We moved on in advance. The day was excessively hot, and we were
obliged to stop often for our team, in order to refill our flasks. After
traveling five miles we overtook an ox-team loaded, and several mules
packed, on the way to the mines. (See Plate). There were also several
teams in the distance, moving in the same direction. We soon saw three
men mounted on mules, coming toward us, who appeared to be returning
from the mines. They were in high _spirits_, galloping along a little
off the main track. One of them, in order, probably, to show a proper
respect, pulled out his revolver and fired. His mule, taking the cue
from his master, wishing to
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
BETWEEN SACRAMENTO, AND THE MINES.]
make a proper demonstration in the presence of his fellow mules, gave a
few peculiar gyrations with his tail, threw his head up, then threw it
down, and threw his heels up, and at this particular time his master
threw his heels up, and they parted company. It would be difficult to
imagine a position more humble than the one assumed by the above
mentioned master. He was literally with his face in the dust, and I
never saw a more peculiar cast of countenance. If I had not seen the
above transaction, but had met him with the same expression of
countenance, I should have thought he had stolen the mule he was on, or
would steal one if he had an opportunity. He didn’t give us his card,
but hurried on in the direction of Sacramento city.
We found the country a continuous plain entirely destitute of water,
vegetation parched, and nothing showing signs of life excepting the few
scattering oaks, an occasional wolf, and numerous gray squirrels. These
last have much the appearance of the gray squirrels of the forests of
New York; but they burrow in the ground, in families. We exhausted the
supply of water we had put on board, and were suffering with thirst. The
sun had gained the meridian, and his rays were almost consuming. We
hurried on through clouds of dust, and at 2 P.M. reached the point at
which we expected to find water. To our painful surprise, the spring was
dry. It was three miles to the next, and we were almost crazy with
thirst. It was no time for deliberation. There was no alternative but to
push on. On arriving at the next spring, we found a puddle containing a
quart of water, the surface covered with yellow wasps. We were, however,
not fastidious, and drank all excepting the wasps. It again filled and
was again drained, until all had replenished their flasks. We here took
dinner, and moved on until about 5 P.M., when, after a most fatiguing
day’s journey, we reached the “half-way tent.” I here saw a herd of
deer, and notwithstanding the fatigues of the day, indulged in a “hunt,”
but without success.
Here, in the way of public accommodations, we found a tent, luxuriating
in the name of the “half-way house.” A rough board running the entire
length served as a table, the guests sleeping in the open air outside,
under the protection of their own blankets. A blacksmith had erected,
under a temporary covering of canvas, his anvil-block and forge, and
was busily engaged in repairing a damaged vehicle. (See Plate.)
Our cook is busily engaged in preparing supper, while Mr. Cooper and
myself devote the few remaining moments of twilight, to sketching the
surrounding scene. The snowy peaks of the Sierra Nevada are seen looming
up in the distance, now gilded by the last rays of the setting sun, and
now a dark imposing mass. Our teamster has just returned after a weary
search for pasturage for our mules. I am visited by an individual whose
personal appearance proclaims his own history more eloquently than it
can be described. He might be termed one of the oldest inhabitants,
having taken up his residence in the country before the gold excitement.
He claimed to be on terms of intimacy with the _delirium tremens_, was
deaf, had the rheumatism and scurvy, and said “he was not very well
himself.” His entire system seemed palsied by the use of rum, and so
little control had he over the lineaments of his face, that he could
only open his eyes by opening his mouth at the same time; hence, in
closing his mouth upon his pipe (which was in constant use) he was
obliged to part the lids of his left eye with his thumb and finger; so
confirmed had he become in this habit, that a protuberance had raised
upon his eyebrow and cheek-bone by the appliance. He was extremely
loquacious and imparted much _valuable_ information gratis, constantly
keeping that _piercing_ eye upon our brandy bottle. Mr. Cooper, who was
seated upon a log near, cast an inquisitive glance upon him, and I tried
to detect a family resemblance between the two. I was unable to learn,
however, that they were in the least connected, nor am I prepared to say
that their present acquaintance ripened into an intimacy. Two amiable
donkeys are standing patiently under their loads while their masters are
extracting “vegetables” from a demijohn.
We were serenaded, as usual, during the night. We had been under the
impression that the music was gratis, but learned, on this occasion,
that it was supported by _direct taxation_, one of the worthies having
taken a ham from our camp-kettle during the night. In addition to this,
I had the pleasure, in the morning, of _adding a note to his scale_,
with which he seemed so much pleased, that he went off _repeating it_,
until he was out of sight.
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS 111, NASSAU ST. N. Y.
AUTHOR AND ARTIST]
We took an early start and found the country more rolling, with an
occasional pine tree. It was evident that we were ascending into a more
elevated region, and from the higher points we could plainly see the
Sierra Nevada, their slopes pointing out the location of the river to
which we were journeying--the north branch of the American river. The
country abounded in massive rocks, sometimes piled up in ledges, and
sometimes forming the entire summits of the hills.
Chapter Thirteenth.
VENISON--FIRST VIEW OF THE GOLD REGIONS--SURROUNDING
SCENERY--“MORMON BAR”--A POCKET--MY MACHINE IN MOTION--CERTAINTY OF
SUCCESS--FIRST DINNER--“PROSPECTING”--A GOOD “LEAD”--DISAPPOINTED
MINERS--A NEW COMPANION--A HIGHER POINT ON THE
RIVER--VOLCANOES--SNOWY MOUNTAIN--AUBURN--LONELY ENCAMPMENT.
We passed the night in the open air, and the next morning at eight
o’clock arrived at an encampment of teamsters who were just dressing a
deer and preparing breakfast. (See Plate.) The tree under which they
were encamped was on fire, on one side, to its very top--the other
supporting a luxuriant branch. The coffee-pot is on the fire and the
cook stands by, frying-pan in hand, waiting for the steak. At the left
the cattle are seen feeding; one of them, however, having resigned
himself to the “coyotas.” In the distance is seen a herd of deer
bounding away over the hill. On the right are seen teams wending their
way to the banks of the “North Fork” of the American river--freighted
with provisions and utensils for mining. It will be seen that we have
ascended into a more elevated region since leaving the last Plate. The
ascent has been gradual--almost imperceptible--still everything
indicates our elevation.
At ten we arrived at a junction in the roads, four miles from our point
of destination; we remained here until after dinner; we now felt that we
were about to try the realities of that for which we had left home and
friends, traveled thousands of miles, and endured hardships and
privations, the very thought of which makes the heart sick--we felt a
degree of anxiety, as a few hours would probably decide whether we were
soon to return to our friends or endure a long period of hardships in
the mines. After dinner we were again under way, and soon, leaving the
main road, we were running in the direction of the
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
ON STONE BY J. CAMERON
LITH. of G. W. LEWIS, 111 NASSAU ST. N. Y.
TEAMSTERS BREAKFASTING,
_on the road to the Mines_.]
river. The road was good; but little timber; and the soil appearing well
adapted to agriculture. It was soon evident that we were in close
proximity to the river--the ravines all tending in the same direction;
frequent rocks of enormous size, and from the more elevated points we
could see a range of mountains rising on the other side. Having left the
team behind, we pressed forward, eager to get a glimpse of the river and
those employed in the golden pursuit; we soon arrived among the pines
which stud the banks, but were still obliged to climb a slight ascent
forming the immediate bank.
We soon gained the summit, and stood enraptured with the scene around
us. The river, saluting our ears with its restless murmurs, meandered at
the base of the mountain which had lifted us a mile above it. The banks
were dotted with tents and teeming with the Liliputian owners. On the
opposite side were mountains piled one above the other, terminating in a
range covered with eternal snow, presenting a scene of grandeur and
sublimity nothing can excel. The whitened peaks, reflecting the sun,
resembled the domes of some vast cathedral. Looking back, the entire
valley of the Sacramento was stretched out before us, bounded by the
coast range of mountains, beyond which we could look upon the Pacific
ocean--presenting a scene which, in extent, diversity, and grandeur is
rarely if ever equalled. In the valley we could see extensive fertile
plains, deserts of white sand, marshes, numerous lakes, dense forests,
marking the water courses; and no doubt, with a glass of sufficient
power, could have seen herds of elk, deer, antelope, and wild cattle.
There is but little vapor in the atmosphere at this season of the year,
and the vision is almost unbounded. Our team soon came up, and we
prepared to descend the mountain, which was very precipitous, and the
only place within ten miles at which the river can be reached with a
team. Our teamster chained the wheel and with much difficulty descended
the first step. He having been engaged in the same capacity during the
Mexican war, managed the descent with much skill, and reached the base
without accident.
We found ourselves at the “Mormon Bar,” forty-five miles from Sacramento
city. We pitched our tent and cooked dinner after which I paid the
teamster seventy-five dollars for three hundred pounds freight and
started off to visit the miners. I well remember that as I was going
down the side of the cañon I saw a hole in a rock, which I thought such
an excellent “pocket” that I resolved to pay it a secret visit, not
doubting that it contained a rich deposit. I afterward learned that the
“pockets” in California had not all been filled, and the one above
mentioned was never picked to my knowledge. I found a great many in
eager pursuit, some digging up the dirt, carrying it in buckets, or tin
pans, and throwing it into the rocker, while their companions would rock
the machine and pour in water, which would wash out the dirt, the gold
being retained by riffles, or cleats, in the bottom. The first machine I
saw in operation was being rocked by Mr. Devoe, and fed by Gen.
Winchester and his brother--all of New York. The two last named were in
the water knee deep, getting dirt from the bottom of a hole. I loaned
them a late New York paper, and we were soon acquainted. They were about
to take the gold from their machine and wished me to stay. This was just
what I wished to do, and, after a five minutes’ detention, they raised
the screen, exhibiting the bottom of the rocker, which was covered with
gold. I started for the tent, and it seemed that every rock had a yellow
tinge, and even our camp kettle, that I had thought in the morning the
most filthy one I had ever seen, now appeared to be gilded--and I
thought with more than one coat. During the night, yellow was the
prevailing color in my dreams. In the morning, hiring out two of the men
temporarily at ten dollars per day, I hired a machine at two dollars per
day, took the other man, went a short distance above Gen. Winchester’s
“lead” and soon found myself in a “lead” which I thought much better
than his.
“Bent” rocked and I put in the dirt. We resolved to run through twenty
buckets before raising the screen, and soon the perspiration began to
flow. He had a strong arm and I exerted every nerve to keep the machine
supplied. The dirt would pass through the screen almost instantly,
leaving the pebbles which he would scan very minutely, but finding no
large pieces of gold consoled himself with the thought, “the smaller the
more of them.” But now, after an hour’s incessant labor, we were about
to finish our first task, and had in the machine as
[Illustration: G. V. COOPER DEL.
BROWN & SEVERIN LITH.
G. W. LEWIS PRINT.
MORMON BAR, ON THE NORTH FORK, AMERICAN RIVER.]
much as we thought it prudent to have at any one time; I stopped digging
but my heart kept on. The heat was most intense, the perspiration
gushing from every pore. Bent was in a fever of excitement. He was
naturally of a sandy complexion, but now his face added a deeper tinge
to his red flannel shirt collar. Our reward was in our machine, and
after putting in several dippers of water we raised the screen. It did
not look as we expected it would; there was any quantity of dirt and
_some_ gold.