and cold civilities, accompanied with unmeaning words. The assembly is
no sooner seated, than brandy is introduced. A domestic distributes
three enormous bumpers to every individual, one of which would be
sufficient in any other country to make a man give in. Here it is
merely a provokative to double and triple the dose. A Koriac toper
considers it in no other light, and when it is presented to him, he
gives a complacent smile to the whole company, and particularly to the
master of the house, to whom also he makes a slight inclination of
the head. He then swallows, one upon another, without the least sign
of repugnance, three glasses filled as fast as possible. The children
drink it with as little aversion. I have seen a child six or seven
years old take off one of these glasses, without making a wry face.
To this copious distribution of brandy M. Gaguen never fails to add
some presents of iron, stuffs, or tobacco, and carries his attention
so far as to consult the taste and wants of each individual. The
Tchouktchis, and the fixed Koriacs, are treated with similar kindness.
By this means he has gradually tamed these savage minds, and gained
an influence and ascendency over them: a poor recompence for the
sacrifices he is obliged to make to provide these liberalities, the
expence of which falls solely upon himself, and from the dearness of
every article in this country, must be a heavy burthen to him.
[35] Sometimes the lower part of this rein is furnished with little
sharp pieces of bone, which, with the smallest shock, serve to goad
forward the animals that are untractable, and are continually employed
for that purpose. In harnessing the rein deer, they are careful not to
put on the right the beast that is trained to draw on the left, the
sledge would otherwise, instead of advancing, be instantly overturned.
This trick, however, the Koriacs frequently play upon the Russians, who
they think have treated them ill.
[36] They had indeed quitted the road, but had only dragged me about
fifty paces from it.
[37] This proceeding was the more agreeable to me, as being perfectly
unexpected. It was the first present that any Koriac had offered
me. I should not have observed this, if, as having just quitted the
hospitable Kamtschadales who had loaded me with gifts, I had not been
tempted to compare the characters of the two people.
[38] In the presence of the Russians, he crosses himself before and
after his meals, and when he enters his yourt.
[39] Among a hundred of these skins scarcely two can be found fine
enough for furs. There are some entirely white.
[40] The yourt of my host was about eight yards in diameter, and nearly
of the same height. The circumference at the base was twenty-four
yards, and the top similar to that of a cone.
[41] We caught some excellent trout.
[42] The snow fell in such abundance, that these poor animals were in a
manner buried under it. Accustomed however to such weather, they crowd
together, and always holding their noses in the air, the heat of their
breath, by penetrating their cold covering, creates a free passage for
respiration. They have the sense also to shake themselves when the snow
becomes too heavy.
[43] Our company consisted of ten, seven of whom were Koriacs, whose
filthiness is well known.
[44] Though this circuit was more than seven hundred wersts, the
rapidity of these rivers insured me a speedy navigation, by which I
should have gained a considerable advantage in point of time, besides
the pleasure of enjoying the first appearance of spring.
[45] A vessel from Okotsk was wrecked in this place a few years ago.
The whole cargo, consisting of provisions, was lost, and almost all the
crew perished.
[46] All the fixed Koriacs between Ingiga and Yamsk are baptised. These
two settlements have but one priest, whose habitual residence is at
Ingiga. He seldom makes the circuit of his district, which extends as
far as the ostrog of Taousk, the first place belonging to the diocese
of Okotsk.
[47] The post expences are the same here as in Kamtschatka for common
sledges, though the teams of the nartas consist of double the number of
dogs.
[48] This was a real loss to my conductors: there are dogs of a price
as high as fifty roubles, and not one of them is sold for less than
five.
[49] The ice bent under my sledge at every step.
[50] M. Kokh was born in Germany, and spoke the Russian language as
fluently as his own; he wanted only confidence to express himself
equally well in French. He had long retired to this settlement with his
wife and three children, where he lives in peace, surrounded by his
little family, rich in the public esteem, and happy in the opportunity
which his situation affords him of doing good.
[51] Accustomed to such accidents when they travel in this season of
the year, they ascend the loftiest trees, where they fabricate with the
branches a kind of hut called _labazis_; but it often happens that the
torrents do not abate, and in this case they equally perish for want of
food.
[52] This was no very easy task, if we consider the extreme weakness
of these poor animals, who have no other sustenance, during the whole
winter, than the branches of willows, or birch trees. With such
nourishment, what service was to be expected from them! To support so
long a fast, they surely stand in need of the respite from labour which
is commonly allowed them during this season of the year; and even at
the commencement of spring, it is not prudent to make use of them till
they have recovered their strength by better pasture. The fields are
no sooner freed from the snow, than they disperse in eager pursuit of
every little blade of grass, and devour the shoots almost before they
spring out of the ground; rapid as the vegetation is in this country,
it must be supposed that a considerable time is necessary to recover
their vigour.
[53] See Coxe, Chap. I.
[54] I might here give an account of the origin, progress, and nature
of the commercial alliance between these two empires; but as the
caravans sent by the Russians to Kiatka, commonly assemble at Irkoutsk,
I shall defer it till my arrival at that settlement, where I shall
perhaps acquire still more accurate information.
[55] I shall not enter into particulars respecting the manner in which
these settlements were made. The Russians unfortunately displayed
neither more integrity nor greater humanity than in their preceding
conquests; and I wish it was in my power to draw a perpetual veil over
the scenes of horror which they repeated on their arrival in these
climates. But the many instances of injustice and dishonesty practiced
by the chiefs, pilots, merchants, and sailors, have given rise to such
a variety of complaints and suits, and so many authors have written
upon the subject, that my silence could have no effect. It is well
known that a number of ships employed in this trade have been accused
of taking by force, instead of purchasing, the furs which they brought
back, and sold at an immense profit. Not content with tearing from the
unfortunate indigines these fruits of their courage and labour, they
sometimes compelled them, under the immediate inspection, and for the
sole profit of the crew, to hunt otters, beavers, sea cows, foxes, and
other animals; and frequently from an excess of distrust or avarice,
they hunted themselves. Such conduct induces us to believe that they
were guilty of crimes still more shocking. It is not to be supposed
that at so great a distance, the injunctions and menaces of the empress
should in all cases so far operate as to prevent enormities. Experience
has too clearly demonstrated, particularly in the extensive empire of
Russia, that authority becomes weak, in proportion as it is farther
removed from the center. How many years of vigilance and discipline are
necessary, before abuses can be suppressed, and obedience effected!
This has long been the object of the existing administration, and there
is reason to presume that its exertions have not been fruitless.
[56] Such was the project of a merchant of my acquaintance, who
expected to derive from it the most considerable advantages. With the
map of Cooke’s voyage in his hand, his intention was to enter the river
that bears the name of this celebrated navigator, and to extend his
course as far as the environs of the bay of Nootka. If he found himself
able to execute his plan, it is possible that he would not be wholly
deceived in his hopes, and his countrymen may, perhaps, be hereafter
indebted to his information and courage for the knowledge of new
sources of wealth.
[57] See Vol. I. p. 140.
[58] All of whom, as well as the different naval officers, are brought
hither from Russia. To complete however their complement of sailors, M.
Hall was obliged to raise recruits in the country; and the orders he
brought were so precise, that the governor supplied him both with men
and materials at his first requisition.
[59] We have seen in the description of Okotsk, that these buildings
constituted the part of the town appropriated to trade. Alarmed at
this incident, they immediately unfurnished their shops, determined to
remove into the government square, of consequence they undertook to
rebuild the barracks, and considerably augmented the number of them.
[60] The mode of preparing salmon is the same as at Kamtschatka.
[61] I have already given an account of this sport, which takes place
in the moulting season, and observed that a stick is the only weapon
used on the occasion.
[62] They consisted of leathern bags and portmanteaux; with this
advantage, that they never gall the sides of the horses. The usual
weight is five _pouds_, or two hundred pounds, and it never exceeds
six _pouds_; that is, two hundred and forty. These loads they call
_viouki_, and the horses that carry them _viouschni-loschadei_. If the
baggage to be carried be lighter or less cumbrous, they place it upon
the back of the animal, and fasten it with a cord of hair that passes
under his belly.
[63] The Yakouts seemed not to be much concerned at the loss of
these animals, and have no idea of affording them any assistance.
When they refuse to go on, or fall down from weakness or fatigue,
they are abandoned to their deplorable fate, and their carcasses are
left to be devoured by bears, who never relinquish their prey while
any thing remains but the bones. Every ten steps we see skeletons of
these horses, and from Okotsk to the cross of Yudoma, I imagine that
I passed more than two thousand. My conductors informed me that the
majority had perished the preceding year, in conveying from Okotsk to
Yakoutsk the different materials required for M. Billings’s expedition,
in consequence of having been surprised by the floods, which had been
so sudden that the guides saved themselves with difficulty. A part
of their loads were still under a kind of _labazis_, of which I have
already spoken, where travellers place their effects till the waters
subside. It was added, that the Yakouts lose in this manner every year
four or five thousand horses, in transporting the different objects of
the commerce which they undertake.
[64] The Yakouts are so habituated to this exercise, that they might
defy the most expeditious groom. They tie the horses three and three to
each others tails, and a single rope serves to lead them all.
[65] I was a witness on this day of a circumstance that deserves to
be related. My Yakouts skilfully peeled off large pieces of bark from
the pine tree, of which they formed a sort of tent or parapluie, under
which they took up their abode during the night.
[66] Beside various sorts of aquatic birds, we frequently met with the
heath-cock and the white partridge; we also appropriated their eggs to
our use, wherever we could find them.
[67] They were chiefly willows and alders; but deeper in the forests we
perceived some firs and birch trees of a good height.
[68] They use for this purpose a long and wide blade fastened at the
end of a stick three feet long. This instrument serves them both as
lance and axe.
[69] I have already mentioned the quickness of the vegetation. Its
progress was every day perceptible; the trees, which had been so long
bare, gradually recovered their dress, and the country soon appeared
like a vast meadow enamelled with rural flowers. What a spectacle for a
man whose eye had for the space of six months seen nothing but frozen
rivers, and mountains and plains covered with snow! It seemed to revive
with nature, and to spring out of its ruins.
[70] There is actually a cross erected on the bank of the river.
[71] The abatement of the water was every day perceptible to the eye,
and a longer delay would have exposed me to all the dangers of shoals,
and the most formidable cataracts.
[72] These boats are flat, and terminate in points at the two
extremities.
[73] It is called _listvenischnoie-derevo_.
[74] It pours itself into the Lena, at a little distance from, and
north of, Yakoutsk.
[75] This place is called _Oust-mayapristann_ or harbour of the mouth
of the Maya.
[76] During my five days navigation I had travelled near seven hundred
wersts.
[77] Independently of various other cattle, he had a stud of two
thousand horses in very good condition, though he had lost a
considerable number by the conveyances occasioned by M. Billings’
expedition. From the manner in which he spoke of his submission to
the will of the empress, I judged that he felt no reluctance at any
sacrifices that proved his zeal.
[78] I met with many of these chiefs, to whom this language was as
familiar as their own.
[79] See Vol. I. p. 184.
[80] Nothing is more easy than to distinguish the chamans, who let
their hair grow, and tie it behind, from the Yakouts, who wear their
hair short.
[81] The instrument which I here style a flute, is a bone hollowed and
fashioned somewhat like our _flûtes à l’oignon_, and its tone is not
less acute.
[82] The bark is stripped off, and the stakes either painted various
colours, or ornamented with rude sculpture.
[83] In speaking of the saddles, I ought to have added that the
stirrups are very short.
[84] Three horses pay here the same as one in Siberia.
[85] There would be no end to my repetitions if I were to mention all
the civilities I received from each of these Yakout princes.
[86] The bark of this tree is stripped off in the spring.
[87] I was the first traveller this year from Okotsk that had yet
arrived at Yakoutsk. The distance between these places is about fifteen
hundred wersts.
[88] M. Marklofski was to hold the office till M. Kasloff arrived.
[89] The Lena crosses Siberia in nearly its widest part, from
north-east to south-west, and pours itself afterwards into the Frozen
Ocean.
[90] I shall say nothing of the mode of government, as it is similar to
that of Okotsk.
[91] The post expences are not the greater on account of this distance;
a man is paid at the same rate as a horse.
[92] They always fastened to my boat a small canoe, in which they
return home, and which is carried along by the mere current of the
river.
[93] It is also called _Olekminsk_.
[94] He informed me that the borders of the Lena were inhabited on this
side by different hordes of his countrymen. I must observe, that the
Toungouses and Lamouts may be regarded as the same people.
[95] The fish with which this river principally abounds is the
sturgeon, or _sterled_. The industry of the Toungouses, makes caviare
of the eggs of this fish, as we do.
[96] From a principle the reverse of that of the Koriacs, the
Toungouses always milk the female deer. This milk, which they made me
taste, is very thick.
[97] Their journeys extend as far as the frontiers of Tartary and China.
[98] As we approached Irkoutsk, the direction of the river became
narrow. I remarked that the country was better cultivated; the wheat
especially was very fine.
[99] These kibitks are in the shape of a large cradle. They are not
hung upon any thing, and though you may lie down in them, you feel
every jolt of the carriage.
[100] Almost all his children speak French; one of the sons writes it
correctly, and possesses, as well as his brother, a thousand amiable
qualities. They have a sister married to the vice-governor.
[101] During my stay at Okotsk, M. Kokh, at my request, had willingly
conferred on him the rank of corporal. This unexpected favour made so
strong an impression upon him, that, on his return from the parade, I
thought he would have become mad from joy and gratitude.
[102] This treaty, which had been drawn up in Latin by these religious
negociators, was translated into the Russian and Mantchew languages,
and respectively ratified by the two sovereigns. This was the first
instance, since the foundation of the Russian empire, of a treaty of
peace being entered into by this nation, and foreigners permitted
to enter the capital. At this epoch there were a number of Siberian
families at Pekin, deserters or prisoners, and who, from the goodness
of the emperor Kam-hi resolved to settle there, and even to naturalize
themselves.
[103] It is in this manner the Russians write and pronounce the word
Czar.
[104] Individuals soon freed themselves from the tyrannical shackles of
the royal monopoly; they carried on a secret intercourse with China, by
means of the Mongoul Tartars, who sold their mediation at a high price.
[105] The reader will find in Coxe all the details respecting these
boundaries.
[106] This, I believe, is the place called by the Russians
_Naïmatschinn_.
[107] When I was at Okotsk, tea was sixteen roubles a pound, and very
scarce. I was told that it was sent from Petersburg, and that Russia at
present procured this article either from England or Holland.
[108] On my arrival in Siberia I was informed, at various times, that
the Russian merchants repented of the speculations they had made in
consequence of the late adjustment; and as a proof that they considered
it as void, many of them, who opened their warehouses to shew me the
prodigious quantity of skins which they had buried in them, agreed in
saying that they waited impatiently for the time when a new treaty
would give them an opportunity of getting rid of their commodities.
If I might be permitted to give my opinion, I would venture to assert,
that the dearest interests, both of Russia and China, are concerned
in the speedy accomplishment of this new compact; but, that it may be
cemented in a manner more durable and beneficial to the respective
commerce of the two nations, it will perhaps be first necessary that
they should, in concert, lighten the burthen of taxes, and take away
all the restrictions that intimidate and discourage the merchant. It
might also be expedient for Russia, profiting of the physical and
natural advantages she possesses from her situation, to fit out ships
from Okotsk or Kamtschatka, or some other port, which might go directly
to Macao or Canton, and carry on the trade at a much less expence than
by land. The communication between Okotsk and Siberia is not very
difficult, and this province would doubtless become more flourishing
when this route was more frequented. These reflections naturally led
me to what I have said in the first volume of this work (_note, p.
9._) of the project of an English merchant at Macao. Why should not
the Russians make similar attempts? Have they not better opportunities
than the English of monopolizing the fur trade with China? When the way
was once opened, it would be easy to extend the communication to new
objects. I say nothing of the inestimable advantage that Russia would
derive from this commercial navigation, in having numerous and skilful
seamen.
[109] Desirous of finishing my journey more expeditiously, I left the
greater part of my effects with M. Medvedoff, a merchant, who politely
undertook to send them to Petersburg.
To settle this business, he invited me to sup with him. While we were
at table, the town experienced an earthquake, which was tolerably
violent, and lasted two minutes. We perceived it by the shaking of
our glasses, table, and chairs; all the bells sounded, and many
turrets were thrown down. Upon the first terror it occasioned, various
conjectures were formed respecting the cause of this shock; as I
perceived that the motion, or undulation, was from south to north, it
was supposed to originate in a neighbouring lake, called _Baikal_. I
leave it to naturalists to decide the question.
[110] This river, taking the name of _Tounkoutska_, runs as far as
Yenisei (near the town of Yeniseisk) and, at some distance from
Irkoutsk, falls into the vast lake, which the Russians call the sea of
_Baikal_. This lake is said to be surrounded with lofty mountains, its
water is fresh, but the navigation of it is unsafe, on account of the
frequent storms to which it is exposed. I much regret the not having
been able to visit it.
[111] The strength of my expressions in describing my sentiments
towards this soldier, require, in my opinion, no apology. I have
nothing to say to any one that shall blame me, when informed of the
services he rendered me.
[112] Among these authors I shall mention Gmelin, Neveu, Lepekinn,
Ritschkoff, Falk and Georgi, abbe Chappe, and Pallas. The last
particularly has in his descriptions the triple merit of accuracy,
energy, and extensive information.
[113] There were some persons of distinction among them.
[114] Its borders are said to be infested with robbers, who are
probably nothing more than the watermen. I saw many of them in my
route, but never received the smallest insult.
[115] It is a praise due to the postilions of Russia; in no part are we
driven so rapidly, and the reason is that they are almost always tipsy.
In the villages, after harvest, it is necessary to take them by force
from the public houses.
[116] These towns are well known: I passed them with such speed as
scarcely to see them.
VOCABULARY OF THE KAMTSCHADALE, KORIAC,
TCHOUKTCHI, AND LAMOUT LANGUAGES.
ENGLISH. RUSSIAN. KAMTSCHADALE. KORIAC. TCHOUKTCHI. LAMOUT.
GOD Bokh Douchtéakhtchitch, Kamakliou En-iéga Kh-éouki
[1] Kout & Koutka _or_ Angag
Father Otets Epep Empitch Illiguin Amai
Mother Matt Engatcha Ella Illa Eni
Child Dittia Péétch Kmouiguin Ninkhai Khoutean
I Ia Kimméa Guiomma Guim Bi
Name (of Iméa Kharénétch Ninna Ninnéa Guerbin
a thing)
A circle, Kroug Kill la Kil Kamlell Kilvo Miouréati
or round
Smell Doukh Tchékh outch Voui voui Vouie guirguin Ounga
An animal Zvér Kazit kenguiia Alliougoullou Illpouilla Boioun
A stake Koll Outlept kouitch Oupouinpin Oupinpekhai Tipiioun
A river Réka Kiig Veiem Veiem Okat
Labour Rabota Kazonem Iakhitchat Tirétirkigssinn Gourgalden
guiguin
Death Smért Eranim Veiaguiguin Veiéigou Kokan
Water Voda Azamkh _or_ Ji Mima Mimil Mou
The sea Moré Ezouk Ankan Ankho Nam
Mountain Gora Inzit Guiéguéi Neit Ouraktchan
Evil Boll Lodonim Tatch guiguin Téguél Eien
Indolence Lénn Kh-alacik Kouloumgatomg Télounga Ban
Summer Léta Adempliss Alaal Elek Anganal
The year God Tkhatkhass Guiviguiv Guioud Angan
ENGLISH. RUSSIAN. KAMTSCHADALE. KORIAC. TCHOUKTCHI. LAMOUT.
The Svétt Atkhat Khétchguikhei Kheiguikei Guévan
universe
Salt Soll Peipiem Yamyam Teguiou Tak
An ox Bouik Kezioung Tchimga Penvel Gueldak
The Certsé Guillioun Lingling Liig ling Mévan
heart
Strength Cila Kekhkekh Nikétvoukhin Nikatoukhin Egui
Health Zdrava Klouvesk Tmelessvouk Gué mélevli Abgar
Well Kharacho Klioubello Nimélkhin Nimelkhin Aïa
Ill Dourno Keiel Khatkin Guetkin Kanioulit
The hand Rouka Tonno _or_ Mouina galguin Mouinguit Gal
Cettoud
The foot Noga Katkha _or_ Guit galguin Guitkalguin Boudel
Tkada
The ear Oukho Aïllo _or_ Vélioulguin Velioulguin Gorot
Jioud
The nose Noss Kekiou _or_ Enguittaam Ekhkhaiakh Ogot
Kika
The Rott Cekcé _or_ Ikniguin Guikirguin Amga
mouth Kissa
The head Glava Khobel _or_ Léout Léout Del
Tkhouzgéa
The Gorlo Kouikh Pilguin Pilguin Belga
throat
The Lob Tchoutschel Kitschal Kitschal Omkat
forehead _or_ Tchikika
A tooth Zoub Kip khépp Bannalguin Ritti Itt
The Iazik Ditchel Lill Guiguil Enga
tongue
The Lokott Tallotall Nitschiouvétt Kirvouéliin Etschén
elbow
The Paltsi Tkida _or_ Iélguit Tchnilguit Kh-abrr
fingers Kik-énn
The Nokhti Koud _or_ Véguit Véguit Osta
nails Kououn
The Choki Aié ioud Elpitt Irspitt Anntschinn
cheeks _or_ Pr-énn