SOWING SEED IN SITU, ID EST, AT STAKE.
It is named “at stake” because stakes are put along in lines to show
where the Tea trees are to be, and the seed is sown at those spots.
The _modus operandi_ is very simple. A month before the sowing time
(which should be as soon as you can get the seed), at each stake dig a
hole at least 9 inches diameter and 12 inches deep, put the soil taken
out on the sides, taking care, however, if it be on a slope, to put
none _above_ the hole. Do not put the soil near enough to the pit to
make it likely it will be washed back. Such soil as should be washed in
ought to be the new rich surface soil. For this reason the upper side
of the hole should be left free on slopes. The pits are made a month
beforehand to admit of this, and to allow the action of the air on the
open sides to improve the mould.
If lucky enough to have one or two falls of rain during the month, the
holes will be more or less filled up with soil eminently calculated
to instigate rapid growth. Just before sowing fill up the pit with
surrounding _surface_ soil. Whether to mix a little manure with it
or not is a question. If it is virgin soil, and rich in decayed
vegetation, I say no; if not virgin soil, and rather poor, yes; but it
must be strictly in moderation--not more, say, than a man can hold in
both hands to each hole. In filling up the hole, press the soil down
lightly two or three times, or it will all sink later, and your seeds
be far too deep.
When the above is all done, there is a perfect spot for the reception
of the seed. The tap-root can readily descend in search of moisture,
and the lateral rootlets can spread likewise. They (the latter) will
not reach the outer walls of the pit for six months, and will then be
strong enough to force their way through.
Now sow the seed. Put in, say, two or three, as the seed is good or
bad, six inches apart; push them into the soft soil one inch, and put
up the stake in the centre to mark the spot.
Keep the place clean till following rains, but allow only hand-weeding
near the young seedlings, and occasionally open the soil with some
light hand-instrument, as a “koorpee,” to the depth of half-an-inch.
If all the seeds germinate, and the seedlings escape crickets, and all
live, at commencement of the rains leave the best and transplant the
others to any vacant spot. You will succeed with some, not with others;
but do not be too anxious to take up the spare ones with earth round
the roots, and thus endanger the one plant left. That the seedling left
be not injured is the _great_ point, the others must take their chance.
Some people believe in two, or even three seedlings together, and would
thus advise them to be all, or perhaps two, left. I do not approve of
the plan, except, perhaps, with Chinese plants. Plant as close as you
will in the lines, but give each plant its own home.
There is another mode of planting at stake, which is, I think, better
than the above.
Lay the seed in alternate layers of seed and mould in beds. The seeds
may be laid _close_ to each other, but not _above_ each other, with
mould, say, two inches thick, above, and then seed again. When they
begin to burst, ready to shoot out their roots, examine the seeds, by
taking off the soil from each layer, every three or four days. Take
out those that _have_ burst, and plant with the eye or root side of
the seed downwards. Put all that have _not_ burst back again. Repeat
the operation again and again every second or third day. Be careful and
take them up before the root projects--that is, directly the coating
has cracked.
By this means only one seed need be put at each stake, for it is
certain to germinate, and seed may thus be made to go much further.
Great care is, however, necessary in this operation.