perishing for want of the necessaries of life, Pike resolved to send
to Santa Fé for the help without which he could not stir from the place
where he then was. Dr. Robinson offered himself to go on this errand. He
was one of the strongest men of the party, and second only to Pike as a
hunter. The hopes of the explorers went with him. When he had gone, all
who could still work were set to building a block-house, for shelter or
defence.
One day while Pike was out hunting, two strangers rode up to him. They
had come from Santa Fé. Robinson had safely arrived, and would soon be
heard from. Feeling no mistrust of them, Pike took these strangers back
to his camp. To his surprise he then learned that he was but two days'
journey from Santa Fé.
These visitors had not been gone many days when a squadron of Spanish
horse rode up to the block-house. The officer in command then notified
Pike that he was encamped on the Rio Grande, on Spanish ground. It was
now clear that the first visitors were sent to spy out Pike's place of
retreat, while this force followed on to take the Americans prisoners.
It also came to light that they were suspected of having a design to
seize the province[3] of New Mexico.
Pike went to Santa Fé to explain why he was found trespassing on Spanish
territory, but was held as a prisoner with his men, whose appearance, as
he describes it, is the best proof of the hardships they had undergone
while lost in the mountains. He says,—
"When we presented ourselves at Santa Fé, I was dressed in a pair of
blue trousers, moccasins, blanket-coat, and a cap made of scarlet cloth
lined with fox-skins, and my poor fellows in leggings, breech-cloths,
and leather coats. There was not a hat in the whole party. Our
appearance was extremely mortifying to us all, especially as soldiers;
and although some of the officers would frequently say to me, that
'Worth made the man,' yet the first impression made on the ignorant is
hard to eradicate; and greater proof cannot be given of the ignorance
of the common people here than their asking if we lived in houses, or
camps like the Indians, or if we wore hats in our country."
After a brief detention, the explorers were sent back to the United
States, under armed escort, by way of El Paso, San Antonio and
Natchitoches. Pike's papers were taken from him, so depriving the world
of the interesting details which at that time were eagerly sought for,
but now had to be supplied largely from memory.
At the same time that Pike was engaged in these explorations, parties
were sent up the Red and Washita Rivers, with the view of enlarging the
scope of his undertaking.[4]
FOOTNOTES
[1] ZEBULON MONTGOMERY PIKE, born New Jersey, 1779.
He was killed while leading an attack on York (Toronto),
Upper Canada, in 1813, having then reached the grade of
brigadier-general. His expedition to the upper Mississippi
in 1805-6 was to take formal possession of the country, and
to notify the British intruders of the North-West Company to
leave it. Its objects were chiefly political and military.
At this time Pike bought of the Indians the ground on which
Fort Snelling stands, the post being named for Colonel Josiah
Snelling, a distinguished officer of the United States army.
[2] AUGUSTE and PIERRE (PETER) CHOUTEAU. (See note 2,
"Acquisition of Louisiana.") Founders of St. Louis with
Laclede. Auguste was in charge of the party that commenced
operations here. In time the brothers became the greatest
fur-traders of the West. The post among the Osages was in
charge of Peter, who was subsequently made United States agent
to that nation.
[3] A DESIGN TO SEIZE THE PROVINCE. The Spanish authorities
had been warned to be on their guard against the filibustering
expedition of Aaron Burr. They thought Pike's appearance
on their frontier part of Burr's scheme, and professed to
believe the exploration a cloak for hostile intentions. Burr's
conspiracy, broadly speaking, though it forms an interesting
episode, has no place in the plan of this volume. Its history,
however, should be read by every student.
[4] RED and WASHITA were explored by Dunbar, Hunter and
Sibley.
NEW MEXICO IN 1807.
Although, in its main objects, Pike's expedition seems unfruitful of
results, we owe to his capture an interesting account of New Mexico, as
he saw it at that time.
"The village of the Warm Springs or Aqua Caliente," he tells us, "at a
distance presents to the eye a square enclosure of mud walls, the houses
forming the wall. They are flat on top, or with very little ascent on
one side, where spouts carry off the water of the melting snow and rain,
when it falls, which, we were told, had been but once in two years.
[Illustration: THE YUCCA-TREE: SPANISH BAYONET].
"The houses were all of one story, the doors narrow, the windows small,
and in one or two houses there were talc lights. This village had a mill
near it, situated on the little creek of the same name, which made very
good flour. The population consisted of perhaps five hundred Indians,
civilized, but of much mixed blood.
"Here we had a dance which is called the fandango, but there was one
other, which was copied from the Mexicans, and is now danced in the
first societies of New Spain, and has even been introduced at the court
of Madrid.
"The greatest natural curiosity is the warm springs, of which there are
two, each affording sufficient water for a mill-seat. They appeared to
be impregnated with copper, and were more than 33° above blood-heat.
From this village, the Indians drove off two thousand horses at one
time, when at war with the Spaniards.
"St. John's (San Juan) was also enclosed by a mud wall, and probably
contained one thousand souls; its population also chiefly consisted
of civilized Indians, as indeed do all the villages of New Mexico, the
whites not forming the one-twentieth part of the inhabitants.
"The house-tops of this village, as well as the streets, were crowded
when we entered it. At the door of the public quarters, we were met by
the priest. When the officer in charge of my escort dismounted, and
embraced him, all the poor creatures who stood around strove to kiss
the ring or hand of the holy father. My men were taken to the quarters
provided for them, and I went to the priest's, who offered me coffee,
chocolate, or whatever else he had, and bid me consider myself at home
in his house.
"Santa Fé, the capital, is situated along the banks of a small creek,
which comes down from the mountains, and runs west to the Rio del Norte.
Although it is but three streets in width, it is about a mile long.
Seen from a distance, I was struck with the resemblance to a fleet of
flat-boats floating down the Ohio in the spring. There are two churches,
whose fine steeples form a striking contrast to the squalid appearance
of the houses around them.
"In the centre is the public square, or plaza, one side of which forms
the flank of the soldiers' square, which is closed and in some degree
defended by round towers in the angles, which flank the four curtains:
another side of the square is formed by the palace of the governor, his
guard-houses, etc. The third side is occupied by the priests and their
suite, and the fourth by the Chapetones who reside in the city. The
houses are generally only one story high, with flat roofs, and have a
very mean appearance on the outside, though some are richly furnished,
especially with plate. The supposed population is four thousand five
hundred souls. On our entering the town, the crowd was very great,
and followed us to the government house. When we dismounted, we were
taken through various rooms, the floors of which were covered with
buffalo-robes, bear-skins, or those of other animals, to a chamber where
we waited for some time, until his excellency appeared."
[Illustration: CHURCH, SANTA FÉ, WITH FORT MARCY.]
In going down the valley into Texas, Pike gained some insight into the
traffic carried on between Old and New Mexico, and of its regulated
movements.
"We passed the encampment," he continues, "of the caravan, going out
with about fifteen thousand sheep for the other provinces, from which
they bring back merchandise. This expedition consisted of about three
hundred men, chiefly citizens, who were escorted by an officer and forty
soldiers. They come together at Ciboletta in February, and separate
there on their return in March. A similar expedition goes out in the
autumn. At other times of the year no citizen travels over the road, the
couriers alone excepted. At the pass of the Rio del Norte, the couriers
meet and exchange packets, when each returns to his own province. We
met a caravan of fifty men and probably two hundred horses, loaded with
goods for New Mexico.
"Saturday morning, March 21, we arrived at the Paso del Norte, through
a mountainous country. We put up at the house of Don Francisco Garcia,
who is a wealthy merchant, and planter. He had, in the neighborhood,
twenty thousand sheep and one thousand cows. We were received in a most
hospitable manner, by Don Pedro Roderique Rey, the lieutenant-governor,
and Father Joseph Prado, the vicar of the place. This was by far the
most flourishing town we had so far been in."
GOLD IN COLORADO.
_A Trapper's Story._
Pike found but one American living in Santa Fé. This man had been a
trapper, accustomed to the wild and free life of the plains, and this
was the story he told.
James Pursley was a Kentuckian who had gone in 1799 to St. Louis, lured
by the thirst for adventure for which men of his class willingly give up
all the comforts of civilized life. He was one of those men who, like
Daniel Boone,[1] thought it time to move on when he could no longer
fell a tree so that its top would lie within a few yards of the door of
his cabin.
So in advance of the explorer comes the trapper of the West, who, while
flying from civilization, is actually paving the way for its coming in
spite of himself.
In 1802, with two companions, Pursley left St. Louis, and travelled
west to the head of the Osage, where they made a successful hunt. From
thence the trappers started for the White River of Arkansas, meaning to
go down to New Orleans with their peltries, but while getting ready for
the long voyage the Indians stole their horses from them.
The hunters pursued the robbers to their villages. The horses were
there, but the Indians would not give them up. Seeing an Indian riding
on his horse, Pursley ran up to him, and with his hunting knife ripped
open the horse's bowels. The incensed savage instantly ran to his lodge
for his gun. It missed fire. Pursley then sprang upon him with his
drawn knife in his hand. The Indian took refuge in a lodge filled with
children and squaws. The chiefs were so struck with the bravery of the
"mad Americans," as they called them, that they gave them back their
horses again.
Pursley and his comrades then returned to the place where they had
hid their peltry, meaning to go to St. Louis by land, but when they
were near the Osage, their horses were again stolen. Hewing themselves
a canoe out of a log, they paddled down the Osage without further
misadventure till they came to its mouth, when the canoe overset, and
the whole year's hunt was lost. They, however, managed to save their
powder and guns.
In the Missouri they met a French trader going up to the Mandan country.
Pursley at once engaged to go with him for the voyage.
On reaching their destination, Pursley was sent out on a hunting and
trading trip with some friendly Paducas and Kiowas, they taking with
them a few trading goods. In the ensuing spring, while hunting at the
sources of the Platte, they were driven into the neighboring mountains
by hostile Sioux. Pursley estimated their number at two thousand, with
ten thousand animals. Well was this nation called the Scourge of the
Great Plains!
Knowing themselves to be on the borders of New Mexico, it was decided
that Pursley, with a few others, should go to Santa Fé in order to learn
if the Spaniards would give them good treatment if they came there to
trade.
The Spanish governor having promised them good treatment, the Indian
deputies went back to their bands, but rather than again risk capture
by the cruel Sioux, Pursley thought best to stay where he was, among
a civilized people. He arrived at Santa Fé in June, 1805, and had been
following the carpenter's trade ever since. Lieutenant Pike describes
him as a man of strong natural sense, of dauntless courage, and the
first American who had penetrated so far into the wilds of Louisiana.
Among other things, Pursley told Lieutenant Pike "that he had found gold
on the head waters of the Platte, and had carried some of the virgin
ore about with him in his shot-pouch for months; but being in doubt
whether he should ever again behold the civilized world, and having
wholly discarded all the ideal value with which mankind has stamped that
metal, he threw the sample away; that he had imprudently mentioned it
to the Spaniards, who had frequently importuned him to go and show them
the place, though, conceiving it to lie in our territory, he had always
refused, and was fearful that his doing so might prove an obstacle to
his leaving the country."
This man little dreamed that after lying dormant half a century, the
discovery of which he thought so little would one day be the making of
a great State.
FOOTNOTE
[1] DANIEL BOONE went from Kentucky to Missouri in 1794,
while it was yet a Spanish province. The Spanish governor
allotted him ten thousand acres in the District of St.
Charles, and also made him syndic of the district. The same
want of forecast which had exiled him from Kentucky lost
him this grant. In his old age he was compelled to appeal
to Congress for relief, that body granting him one thousand
arpents of land in the District of St. Charles. In 1811 he was
still following the business of a trapper. A traveller saw
him returning home, at eighty-four years of age, with sixty
beaver-skins. He was then a hale old man. Boone County and
Booneville, Mo., are named for him.
THE FLAG IN OREGON.
We have seen that Mr. Jefferson's plan for securing the commerce
of the Great West needed two things for its success. One was a road
across the continent. This had been found. The other want was a port
on the Pacific. When this had been met, not only would the resources of
Louisiana lie open to East and West, but the way to India be found, and
the unity of America secured for all time.
As emigration was only just beginning to cross the Mississippi, it
scarcely weighed in the balance with commerce, but was as sure to follow
it as grass to grow or water run.
Our Government having thus cleared the way, the St. Louis traders were
not slow to avail themselves of it. In 1808 they organized the Missouri
Fur Company, which immediately sent an agent into the coveted territory,
where he set up a trading-house known as Post Henry on the Lewis River.
John Jacob Astor, a merchant of New York, conceived the idea of carrying
out the whole scheme as formulated in Mr. Jefferson's mind, not as a
monopolist, protected by Government with exclusive privileges, but as
a private person, who undertakes an enterprise on his own judgment, and
backs it up with his own means.
Mr. Astor was a shrewd and careful merchant who had grown very wealthy
from the profits of the fur-trade. He had the money. He knew the price
of a beaver or an otter skin in every market of the world. He had the
whole A B C of commerce at his fingers' ends. Uniformly successful in
whatever he undertook, his judgment inspired confidence in others, as
superior business tact is sure to do; hence Mr. Astor had no difficulty
in securing partners in his enterprise. It was seen that the key
to success lay in the hands of whoever should first occupy the rich
fur-bearing valleys of the Columbia River.
There was nothing niggardly about this princely merchant's preparations,
once he had made up his mind to embark in the adventure. Every thing
was conceived on a most liberal scale, and nothing was left to chance.
One company of agents, clerks, and laborers was sent round Cape Horn,
with orders to begin a station at the Columbia River, should they first
arrive on the ground. Another company, numbering sixty persons, either
agents, trappers, guides, or interpreters, went from St. Louis up the
Missouri and Yellowstone, and so across the great snowy range into the
Columbia basin.
This was in 1810. The next year Mr. Astor despatched a second ship to
the Columbia with further supplies of men and means.
The Tonquin, the pioneer ship, arrived in the Columbia before the
overland party did. A site was chosen ten miles up the river, on the
south side, and the work of erecting a trading-post begun at once, so
that when the advance of the overland party reached it (January, 1812),
in the utmost destitution, they found relief within its walls.
In honor of its projector the builders called their settlement Astoria.
Its history was destined to be brief but eventful. In the first place,
the rivalry of the British North-west Company soon made itself felt.
Its agents spread themselves out over the upper Columbia waters, so
intercepting the Indian trade. Then news was brought to the factory, of
the taking of the Tonquin and massacre of her crew by the Indians, with
whom she was trading, near the Straits of Fuca.
The ship Beaver, with the third detachment, arrived out in May, 1812.
She, too, sailed on a trading-voyage up the coast. A party was sent out
from Astoria, at this time, to establish a trading-post on the Spokane
River, which, with one already begun at Okonagon, was the second this
company had formed in the interior.
In June, 1812, war broke out between England and the United States. It
was January before the people at Astoria heard of it. Finding themselves
cut off from help on the one side, and threatened with capture on the
other, Astor's agents sold the property to the North-west Company, into
whose hands it thus passed, not without suspicion of collusion on the
part of the sellers. This was in October, 1813.
In this way an enterprise which had been sagaciously planned, backed
with abundant means, and had passed through the preliminary stage
of trial to assured success, came to an inglorious end because the
Government lacked means to protect it. And so Americans were ousted from
Oregon, and Englishmen put in possession, which was much like giving
the wolf the wether to keep.
LOUISIANA ADMITTED.
Louisiana came into the Union in 1812, so making it the eighteenth State
in the order of succession, as it was the first formed of any portion
of the territory we had acquired west of the Mississippi. Louisiana is
therefore the corner-stone of the new Great West.
Louisiana came in at the beginning of a period of strife and bloodshed.
England made a most desperate effort to seize New Orleans, with
intent to obtain control of the Mississippi, or at least to gain a
vantage-ground from which she could dictate terms to the United States.
The fortune of war, however, went against her in the bloodiest battle
of the time. Peace was already made when it was fought, so making the
effort as useless as it was costly and heroic.
III.
THE OREGON TRAIL.
THE TRAPPER, THE BACKWOODSMAN, AND THE EMIGRANT.
Ever since the expedition of Lewis and Clarke, the head waters of the
Missouri had been frequented by hunters, trappers, and traders. These
men threaded every nook and corner of the wilderness in pursuit of a
livelihood, and, rude geographers as they were, the remotest mountain
solitudes were fast yielding up to them the secrets they had held since
the creation of the world.
Let us begin with a portrait of the trapper as drawn from life by Mr.
Irving:—
"When the trade in furs was chiefly pursued about the lakes
and rivers, the expeditions were carried on in bateaux and
canoes. The voyageurs or boatmen were the rank and file in
the service of the trader, and even the hardy men of the
North were fain to be paddled from point to point of their
migrations.
"A totally different class has now sprung up,—the
'mountaineers,' the traders and trappers that scale the
vast mountain chains, and pursue their hazardous vocations
amidst their wild recesses. They move from place to place
on horseback. The equestrian exercises, therefore, in which
they are engaged, the nature of the countries they traverse,
vast plains and mountains, seem to make them physically
and mentally a more lively race than the fur-traders and
trappers of former days. A man who bestrides a horse must be
essentially different from a man who cowers in a canoe. We
find them, accordingly, hardy, lithe, vigorous and active;
extravagant in word, in thought, and deed; heedless of
hardship, daring of danger, prodigal of the present, and
thoughtless of the future.
"The American trapper stands by himself, and is peerless for
the service of the wilderness. Drop him in the midst of the
prairie, or in the heart of the mountains, and he is never
at a loss. He notices every landmark, can retrace his route
through the most monotonous plains or the most perplexed
labyrinths of the mountains. No danger nor difficulty can
appal him, and he scorns to complain under any privation."
Behind the trapper, though it might be at a great distance, came the
backwoodsman. This man was a product of American growth, of continued
expansion of territory, but never the voluntary agent of civilization.
He was more like the foam blown from the crest of its ever-advancing
wave.
The true backwoodsman was one, who, like Daniel Boone, fled at the
approach of his fellow-men. He was a recluse from choice. He has always
hung on to the skirts of civilization, though he scorned to become part
of it, or profit by its advantages or comforts.
This man made a little clearing, built himself a rude cabin of logs,
and lived by hunting. When he first heard of a new purchase he hastened
to it, but as soon as another was made he shouldered his rifle and his
pack, and without regret turned his back upon the home he had scarcely
made habitable when this new fit of restlessness sent him forth in
search of another. In this manner, his lonely clearing made smooth the
way for the coming settler. Thus the backwoodsman's life was passed far
from the haunts of men. Free from all desire to better his condition in
any ennobling sense, he had no higher aspiration than to live apart,
no thought of becoming an instrumentality in the hand of progress. In
his habits and way of life he was more like an Indian than a civilized
being, for the only school he had been educated in was nature's, and his
tastes or instincts led him rather downward than upward in the scale of
human effort.
[Illustration: AN EMIGRANT'S CAMP.]
Behind the backwoodsman, like the vanguard of an army taking the field,
came the emigrant. The tread of his oxen, and print of his wagon-wheels,
followed close in the blazed footpath of the departing pioneer. On foot
he trudged at the head of his worldly possessions, as light of heart as
the birds singing in the forest around him. In the wagon his household
utensils would be stowed away, with wife and little ones, while his
bronzed and barefooted boys, on foot and in homespun, drove the cows and
hogs along the road behind it. At nightfall the wagon would be drawn
up by the side of some limpid brook, the animals turned loose to crop
the tender grass, while with an armful of fagots, gathered close at
hand, the goodwife was soon busy cooking a frugal supper of bacon and
potatoes, over the embers of their camp-fire. In this way the emigrant
sometimes travelled week after week, and month after month, before
finding a place of abode to suit him.