no person had room sufficient to stretch out his limbs, and we were
confined the whole day in the same position, exposed to the heat
of the sun; the sailors were obliged to walk over the passengers
to do their work, and the whole vessel was a scene of confusion
and quarrelling. In the course of the morning we passed the tomb
of a Shikh named Berghout (شيخ برغوت), with a cupola over
it, built upon the beach by Souakin sailors, who revere him as the
protector of mariners. We saw a great number of dolphins, of the same
size and shape as those seen on the coast of Egypt, near the mouths
of the Nile; the sailors would not allow me to throw a lance at them;
to wound one of them they think will be attended with disaster to
the voyage. Soon after mid-day we anchored in the bay of Gayayá;
we had sailed almost the whole morning among rocks just appearing
above water. In sailing into the bay we ran ashore, an accident
which often happens; the sailors are in the habit of entering these
creeks in full sail; when at a certain distance from the beach, they
suddenly furl the sail, and let the vessel run up to the anchorage;
but they often mistake the distance, and as they have no anchor in
these small vessels, she is aground before she can veer round. The
moment the sail is lowered three or four men jump overboard, with
ropes fastened to grappling-irons, which they make fast to some coral
rock or tree on shore. The passengers go on shore every evening, and
often pass the night there. As we had no boat, and the vessel could
not always be brought close in shore, we were sometimes obliged to
wade or swim to the beach.[77] The Negroes encamped every afternoon
in the same manner as they had done when crossing the desert. This
evening I observed the whole beach to be covered with shells,
and in the water among the coral rocks were numberless fishes of
various shapes and colours. I was shewn the shell of the Sorombak,
the fish of which is eaten by the Arabs all along the coasts of the
Red Sea, and particularly in this part. Among the calcined shells,
I saw those of the lobster. A party of Amarer Bedouins came to the
beach to sell water, sheep (three fat sheep for a dollar’s worth
of Dhourra), shell-fish, boiled fish, and some hares,[78] and to
receive the usual presents from the master of the vessel. These
people were entirely ignorant of the Arabic language, and although
we were in much greater numbers than themselves, they appeared
to think very lightly of us, and behaved with little ceremony or
civility. The bay of Gayayá is one of the best anchorages on this
coast; even large ships might find shelter here in stress of weather.
_July 10th._ A good wind carried us before mid-day to the bay of
Deroura, where we anchored, knowing that there is a copious well in
the neighbourhood. We passed yesterday, as well as to-day, several
other bays frequented by country ships. Every pilot (رُبّان
Robban) knows their situation, but long practice is wanted not
to mistake the entrance, which is always through a labyrinth of
shoals. The Tekaýrne went and filled their water-skins at the well,
and after their return the captain obliged them to go a second time,
to bring a sufficient quantity for the ship’s company. These poor
people were, on all occasions, extremely ill-treated, although
not one of them owed his passage to the captain’s charity;
the Souakin people and sailors cursed and beat them repeatedly in
the course of the day, and obliged them to do the ship’s work,
while they themselves sat at their ease smoaking their pipes: the
water and provisions of the poor pilgrims were constantly pilfered
by the crew, and they were crowded into as narrow a space as three
persons would be in the seat of a carriage intended to carry but
two. The ship’s company and the merchants had every morning and
evening fresh Dhourra bread, baked in a small oven on the prow,
while the Negroes, who were never allowed to make use of the oven,
fasted the whole day, till they could cook their supper on shore. If
any of them attempted to take out a leaf of his papers, or to read or
write his prayers, some Souakiny was sure to throw water over him,
and spoil his book. At Souakin the Tekaýrne, before they embark,
are exposed to another inconvenience: instances having been known
of black traders dressing their slaves like pilgrims in order to
elude the duties levied upon them, the Aga has made it a pretext
for exacting duties upon free-born pilgrims, by insisting that they
are slaves in disguise, and thus taking two dollars from each,
though they may be able to prove the contrary. For three or four
months previous to the time of the Hadj Souakin is always full of
Tekaýrne, and they would be much more numerous were it not for
the ill treatment they meet with from the people of Souakin, and
the dangers of the passage across the Red Sea; the dread of which,
more than of the journey to the coast, discourages great numbers
from coming.
_July 11th._ The wind was adverse, and we found ourselves greatly
entangled among rocks. We passed a ruined castle, or large tower,
situated two miles in-land. The Souakin people told me that
it had been built by an ancient Pasha of Souakin, near a well,
and that it was a halting-place on the road, once frequented,
between Kosseir and Souakin. The former existence of such a route
through the mountains of Nubia had already been mentioned to me by
the people of Upper Egypt, and the Pasha of Souakin, it was said,
always travelled by this route from Egypt to his government. The
Souakin people farther informed me, that at every halting place a
similar tower was found; but this they knew only by report, none
of them having ever travelled the road.
In the mountains to the eastward of Daraou in Upper Egypt, three
journeys from that village towards the Red Sea, is a plain with wells
of sweet water, which is called Shikh Shadely (شيخ شادلي)
from the tomb of a holy man, who is said to have died there, on
the road from Kosseir to Souakin; which passes by the wells. The
tomb is held in great veneration by the Egyptians; one of the
Mamelouk Begs built a cupola over it, and people frequently make
vows to visit the Shikh’s tomb, and there sacrifice a sheep
in his honour. The surrounding valleys are full of trees; and
according to the statements of my informants there are some remains
of buildings, and caverns cut in the rocks. The mountain has long
had the reputation of containing emeralds, and most of the Arabian
geographers confirm the opinion by their writings. Mohammed Aly
Pasha having been informed of the tradition, sent in 1812 a party of
soldiers to Shikh Shadely, accompanied by a Greek jeweller of Cairo,
who was supposed to understand something of precious stones. They
carried several hundred peasants with them, and after digging in
the rocky ground, and in the plain near the tomb, in a place were a
Mamelouk Beg had been reported to have found a stone of inestimable
value, they happened, by a singular accident, to dig up a piece of
green opaque glass, about eight cubic inches in size, with something
of an emerald hue; this was immediately declared to be the true
stone, and carried as such in triumph to Cairo. When the jeweller
passed through Esne, I had just arrived there, and saw the supposed
treasure at the governor’s house; but I took care not to damp
the joy of the officer of the detachment, who no doubt considered
that his fortune was made. I heard afterwards that the news of the
lucky discovery reached Cairo before the arrival of the treasure;
that the discoverers received a handsome present from the Pasha;
and that it was not till long afterwards that some connoisseur had
the courage to assure his highness that the supposed emerald was
nothing but a piece of glass. It had been dug out of a thick bed of
gypsum, between ancient walls; and I have little doubt that a glass
manufactory was anciently established on the spot. The surrounding
mountains are very well wooded, and the Ababde Arabs burn there
a large quantity of charcoal from the acacia trees, which they
carry to the Nile, from whence it is shipped by the merchants to
Cairo. The herbs Shieh (شيح), and Rothe (روثه), from which
the best Kelhy or soda is made are common in the same mountain,
and sand is found in plenty in the valleys; this, therefore, was a
most convenient spot to establish a manufactory of glass. No doubt
can be entertained that the ancient Egyptians made use of glass
vessels; fragments of which, of the most varied shapes and colours,
are found in the ruins of all their towns. It is even evident
that they must have attained to considerable skill in this art,
and that they had attempted to imitate precious stones in glass;
for during my stay at Esne, several small pieces of glass were dug
up amongst the ruins of Edfou (Apollinopolis Magna), which were
perfect imitations of the amethyst and topaz.
Before mid-day we entered the bay of Fedja (فجع)[79]; its entrance
is easy, and the anchorage spacious. The ship’s yard was injured
this morning through the unskilfulness of the sailors in tacking;
nothing, indeed, can be more awkward than the manner in which these
country ships are navigated; none of the crew has any particular duty
assigned to him, and every manœuvre creates general confusion. The
captain has no real command over his men, who generally do only
what they like, without attending either to his or the pilot’s
orders; but as they are great cowards, the consequences of their
ignorance prove less frequently fatal to the vessel than might be
supposed. Whenever a fresh breeze springs up, the Arabian sailor
instantly furls his sails, and runs his vessel ashore, where he
remains till it abates; if the ship reaches the neighbourhood of a
bay before noon, and doubts are entertained from the state of the
wind, of the possibility of reaching the next bay before sun-set,
the first is at once entered, and the whole afternoon is passed
in idleness; for after the ship is made fast, there they remain,
however favourable the wind may prove.
El Fedja is a noted anchorage on this coast. We soon opened a market
with some Bedouins, who brought us excellent water. The mountains
continue all along the coast at about four or five miles distant
from the shore, which rises gradually to their base. The beach
is sandy, with layers of chalk, formed by calcined conchylias;
great numbers of shells are everywhere found, and it appeared to
me that each species was generally confined to a particular spot
on the coast. There were however various sorts in the bay of El
Fedja. I particularly noticed the Sorombak, and the small white shell
called at Cairo Woda (وَدَع), with which the Gipsey women tell
fortunes, by tossing them up, as they pronounce the person’s name,
and by observing the position in which they fall on the ground.
_July 12th._ We had a good wind, but want of water obliged us to
run into the bay of Arakyá long before noon. It was our practice
not to sail in the morning till the sun was sufficiently high
to render shallow water and reefs visible at a good distance,
for in most of these intricate channels the pilot’s eye is his
only guide. Late this evening, the Arabs brought a large supply of
water upon camels and asses, which they had drawn from a reservoir
of rain-water three or four hours distant in the mountains. The
bay is composed entirely of calcined shells, and affords a safe
anchorage for large ships. I fought here a hard battle with some of
the Souakin merchants, who continued to ill treat, by every means
in their power, the poor Negroes, and would listen to none of my
representations in their behalf. They had conceived a contemptible
opinion of myself, notwithstanding the respect they saw paid to
me at Souakin, because I had not got a new dress, and because
they thought that I had made myself too familiar with the Black
wretches, as they termed them. I was seconded in my endeavours for
the benefit of the Tekaýrne by a Greek Christian, who had come
with us from Souakin, and who afforded me much entertainment during
the voyage. His name was Stafa, a native of Negropont, and he was
a sailor by profession. He had visited England some years ago on
board a brig of war sent there by Mohammed Aly Pasha, to solicit
permission to sail to the Red Sea by the way of the Cape of Good
Hope. Having remained in England a whole year, he had learned a
little English; after his return the Pasha had given him the command
of a Dow in the Red Sea. He had been to Souakin to recover a debt
of some hundred dollars, from a Souakiny, and was now returning to
Djidda. Like all the other persons on board, he took me for a Syrian,
and conversed with me in broken Arabic. I was exceedingly amused with
the account of his travels in Europe, and the palpable falsehoods and
absurdities which he uttered respecting what he had seen in England,
and the manners of the inhabitants. Comparatively speaking, I had no
reason to complain of my treatment on board the vessel; the Reis,
an inhabitant of Djidda, was the more willing to accommodate me,
as I had given him a dollar as a present, notwithstanding my being
a free passenger: the merchants paid two dollars each.
_July 13th._—We had a tolerable wind, and by the help of the oars,
which we often had recourse to, we reached at two o’clock A. M. the
bay of Tahde. As there was a settlement of Amarer close to the beach,
and as these Bedouins are not in much reputation for good faith,
we remained at a considerable distance from the shore. Some of the
sailors swam to the beach to settle with the chief the amount of
duty to be paid; and the Greek captain and I were obliged to pay
each half a measure of Dhourra above the stipulated sum, under the
pretence that we were in the service of the Pasha, and not Arabs,
like the others. We then landed upon a small raft towed alongside
the vessel from the shore, and were well treated, or at least were
unmolested by the Bedouins who assembled around us. They are of the
tribe of Coubad, a principal branch of the Amarer, and they live
here in tents made of black goats hair, like those of the Arabian
Arabs. There were about thirty or forty tents. That of the Shikh
was pitched close by the side of the tomb of his grandfather, a man
who had been much respected among his tribe, and to whom a sepulchre
of stone had been erected. In the evening immense herds of camels,
sheep, and goats, came running down to the beach to drink at about
half a dozen springs among some trees close to the sea. The water
of all these springs, except one, is brackish. The sheep have short
bad wool; but the hair of the goats is long. In the mountains are
reservoirs of rain water; but the Bedouins seem to be accustomed to
the water of the springs, and do not take the trouble of bringing
sweet water from such a distance. Not far from the wells the beach
becomes very rocky, is covered with loose stones of great size,
and rises rapidly towards the mountains; as far as I could observe,
these rocks are entirely of gray granite. The whole of the morning
was spent in bargaining for milk; after the camels had drank water,
their owners milked them; and the milk was placed before the camels
in large vessels made of reeds, closely interwoven, exactly like
those made by the Barábera above Assouan. We had all brought with
us a quantity of Dhourra and tobacco, which are the best medium of
traffic on this coast. We put down near each vessel as much of the
one or the other, as we thought fit to give; but until we made up the
exact quantity which the Bedouin was determined to have, he continued
to order us very coolly to “go away” (Kak); they would not admit
of any sort of bargaining, but repeated the word Kak.[80] Several
of the Souakin merchants and sailors found here some female friends
of old acquaintance, and although the captain had given orders that
every body should return on board after sun-set, they remained on
shore, and we heard their boisterous songs the whole night. The women
here went unveiled, and behaved with great freedom. The dress of
the men is the usual Dammour shirt; they carry lances, and targets,
and a few have swords; their principal enjoyment seems to be, as in
other parts of Nubia, to get drunk with Bouza. The great numbers
of their cattle expose them sometimes to the inroads of foreign
enemies. The people of Yembo occasionally come here in small ships,
well armed with firelocks, and plunder the whole neighbourhood of
the cattle, alleging as an excuse, that the Amarer formerly killed
several of their countrymen, who had been shipwrecked on this coast.
_July 14th._—As we stood out of the bay a ship from Djidda was
entering: vessels bound from that port to Souakin usually cross over
here, and then coast along southward to their destination. Unless the
wind is particularly favourable, they rarely cross the sea direct
to Souakin. Had the wind been favourable for us, we should have
stood across from this bay; but it was southerly, and we therefore
steered for a small island, a few miles to the north of Tebade,
where we entered a fine bay, with the intention of waiting there
for a northerly wind. This island bears the name of Djebel Mekouar;
Djebel, because it consists almost entirely of a single low rocky
mountain; and Mekouar, from كورّ, يكورّ, which in the
dialect of the Yemen sailors means to cross over, or to start in
order to cross over.[81] The passage across the sea is usually
begun at this island, as well from its being in a more northern
latitude than Djidda, and thus affording the full advantage of the
northerly winds, as from the passage across being quite free from
hidden shoals or reefs, which otherwise might render the navigation
dangerous during the night. It requires generally two days and one
night to perform the passage.
We dispersed among the low trees and shrubs with which the shores
of the island are thickly lined, and some of which even grow in
the water; in foliage the trees resemble the aloe; the wood is
very brittle. The island, as far as I could judge, is about eight
miles in circumference; on its north-east side, and close to it,
is a much smaller one. I wished to visit the interior of the island;
but we were kept ready to sail at a moment’s notice, in case the
wind should come round to the northward. The island is of secondary
formation, with chalk, and entirely barren, except the beach,
where the trees grow. On its western side is another anchorage,
but less spacious than that on the south side, in which our vessel
moored. It is inhabited by about twenty Bisharye families, who
are complete ichthyophagi: they have very few sheep and goats,
the mountain scarcely affording any pasture. On the north side of
the island are some wells, but the water is so brackish that even
the inhabitants cannot drink it. During the winter they find rain
water among the rocks; in the summer they cross over weekly upon
the rafts used by them in fishing, to the continent, which is only
one or two miles distant, and where they obtain a supply from some
wells to the north of Tebade. They appear to live almost entirely
upon fish, shell-fish, and eggs; they obtain a little milk from
their sheep, which are not more than thirty in number. They fish
with nets and hooks, which they buy from the Souakin ships. Of the
thick skin of some large fish, unknown to me, they make targets
of a round and square form, about a foot and a half in diameter,
and sufficiently strong to resist a spear-thrust. In the mountains
they collect at this season vast numbers of the eggs of a species
of sea-gull, which is very common here. About a dozen men and women
came to the bay, with some sheep and a little milk and eggs for
sale. The boiled yolks of the eggs were piled up on their targets,
and carried on their heads, and I was told that they preserve them
in this state for many weeks. Both the men and women had a very
emaciated appearance; none of them spoke Arabic. I wished to barter
for some milk, but the women had conceived such horror on seeing
me, that they absolutely refused to have any dealings whatever
with me. They all seemed extremely desirous of Dhourra, which they
have no other means of obtaining than from ships touching here;
but their sheep were still more valuable to them, for they would
not part with any of them, though we offered a good price.
From the adjacent point of the main land begin the territories of
the Bedouins Bisharein, which extend northwards eight days journey to
the limits of the dominions of the Bedouins Ababde. The inhabitants
of Mekouar are exposed to the attacks of the Amarer from Tebade,
when the two tribes are at war; they then usually retire to the main
land; their principal object in coming here seems to be to barter
with the ships which touch at the island in their passage to or
from Djidda and Souakin. I was told that they consider the island
as their own property, and that no other Bisharein are permitted
to settle on it. It has been supposed to be the _Emerald Island_;
but the Arabian sailors give that name to some islands further
northward, between this and Kosseir.
I was informed here, that one day’s sail farther north, or from
twenty to twenty-five miles, which is the usual rate of these
vessels, there is a large bay extending considerably inland, called
Mersa Dóngola (مرسي دنقله), or the harbour of Dóngola,
with an island at its entrance: it is well known for its rich pearl
fishery. The captain of our boat, Seid Mustafa ed-Djedáwy (سيد
مصطفي الجداوي), had once been there, and brought home
a considerable quantity of pearls of middling quality, which the
Sherif Ghalib afterwards took from him at Djidda. He told me that
the bottom of the sea in the bay was full of pearl-oysters, and
that they may easily be fished, as the water is not very deep. It
is not however frequented at present for pearl-fishing, partly
because the treacherous character of the Bisharein, who inhabit the
harbour, is much dreaded; but chiefly because the ship-owners are
fearful of its being said that they have found treasures of pearls,
which would immediately attract the attention of the government
of Djidda. I was repeatedly assured that the coast northwards from
Djebel Mekouar towards Kosseir is entirely unknown to the Souakin
and Kosseir pilots; and that of the Djidda pilots very few only,
of the tribe of the Zebeyde Arabs, have even a slight knowledge
of it. No commerce, nor direct intercourse is carried on between
Kosseir and Souakin; and the navigation of this part of the coast,
as well as northward from Kosseir to Suez, is scarcely ever performed
by natives of the Red Sea. The Zebeyde Arabs alone sometimes touch
at the harbour of Olba, which is four days sail beyond the harbour
of Dóngola, and five from Djebel Mekouar. Pearls are said to be
found all along this coast, as far south as Massouah, but no where
in such plenty as at Mersa Dóngola.
We had to repair a leak in the vessel, occasioned by her striking
on a coral reef the preceding day; proper arrangements were also
made in the distribution of the cargo and passengers, in order to
leave room sufficient for the sailors to work the vessel in the
passage across the sea, which the Arabians never undertake without
evident signs of fear, and without recommending themselves to the
protection of the Prophet and all the saints.
_July 15th._—A favourable wind sprung up this morning, and we
steered for the open sea. A compass was brought from amongst the
ship’s lumber, but merely for form’s sake, for the captain
and pilot quarrelled which was the due north. Towards evening the
wind increased, when the sailors exchanged the large sail for a
smaller. When night set in, the brilliant light on the surface
of the water, wherever it was agitated, greatly astonished the
Negroes, who endeavoured in vain to obtain an explanation of the
phænomenon from the sailors. We passed a cold uncomfortable night,
no one having room enough to sleep in. The bold travellers of the
desert betrayed great fear in the open sea, to the great amusement
of the people from Souakin.