STOCKHOLM AND ITS SURROUNDINGS.
After the professor's lecture on board of the ship, the students were
piped to dinner. According to his usual custom, Paul Kendall, with his
lady, took rooms at the hotel, and in this instance his example was
followed by Shuffles. Dr. Winstock and Captain Lincoln had already
accepted an invitation from Paul to spend the afternoon with him in a
ride through the city; and as soon as the boats landed at the quay,
they hastened to keep the appointment, while the students scattered
all over the city to take a general view.
"Well, Paul, how do you find the hotel?" asked the doctor, when the
party were seated in the carriage.
"Very good; it is one of the best hotels I have seen in Europe."
"It has an excellent location, but I think there was no such hotel
when I was here before, and I staid at the Hoetel Kung Carl."
"This is a bath-house," said the _commissionnaire_, as the carriage
turned the corner at the hotel, and he pointed to a large, square
building, with a court-yard in the middle.
"That looks well for the cleanliness of the people, if they support
such fine establishments as that."
"Three classes of baths, sir," added Moeller, the guide. "In the first
class you have a dressing-room, and an attendant to scrub you, and
showers, douches, and everything of the sort. This is Drottninggatan,
the principal street of the city," added the man, as the carriage
turned into another street.
"In other words, Queen Street," explained the surgeon.
"It is rather a narrow street for the principal one," said Paul.
"All the streets of Stockholm are narrow, or nearly all; and very few
of them have sidewalks."
"This street looks very much like the streets at home. The shops are
about the same thing. There's a woman in a queer dress," added Captain
Lincoln.
"That's a Dalecarlian woman. They used to row the boats about the
waters of the city, coming down from Dalecarlia to spend the summer
here; but the little steamers have taken the business all away from
them. They hired a boat for the season, and paid the owner one half of
the fares."
"Their costume is rather picturesque," added Paul.
"But that woman is far from handsome," laughed Mrs. Kendall.
"None of them are pretty," replied the doctor.
The dress was a rather short petticoat, with a fanciful bodice, in
which red predominated. Quite a number of them were seen by the party
during their stay in Stockholm, but all of them had coarse features
and clumsy forms.
The carriage returned to the centre of the city by another street,
passing through Carl XIII. Torg, or square, where stands the statue of
that king.
"There is the Cafe Blanche, where they have music every afternoon in
summer, with beer, coffee, and other refreshments. The Swedes are very
fond of these gardens," said Moeller. "Here is the Hotel Rydberg. This
is Gustaf Adolf Torget, and that is his statue."
Crossing the bridge to the little island in the stream, the carriage
stopped, to enable the party to look down into the garden, which is
called Stroemparterren, where a band plays, and refreshments are
dispensed in the warm evenings of summer. Passing the immense
palace, the tourists drove along the Skeppsbron, or quay, which is the
principal landing-place of the steamers. Crossing another bridge over
the south stream, or outlet of Lake Maeler, they entered the southern
suburb of the city, called Soedermalm. Ascending to the highest point
of land, the party were conducted to the roof of a house, where a
magnificent view of the city and its surroundings was obtained.
"We will sit down here and rest a while," said the doctor, suiting the
action to the words. "This promontory, or some other one near it, was
formerly called Agne's Rock, and there is a story connected with it.
Agne was the king of Sweden about 220 B.C. In a war with the Finns, he
killed their king, and captured his daughter Skiolfa. The princess,
according to the custom of those days, became the wife, but
practically the slave, of her captor. She was brought to Sweden, where
Agne and his retainers got beastly drunk on the occasion of
celebrating the memorial rites of her father. Skiolfa, with the
assistance of her Finnish companions, passed a rope through the
massive gold chain on the neck of the king, and hung him to a tree,
beneath which their tent was pitched. Having avenged the death of her
father, the princess and her friends embarked in their boats, and
escaped to Finland."
"They finished him, then," laughed Captain Lincoln. "But what sort of
boats had they?"
"I don't know," replied Dr. Winstock.
"Could they cross the Baltic in boats?"
"Yes. When you go to Finland you will find that the course will be
through islands nearly all the way. There is no difficulty in crossing
in an open boat."
"What is the population of Stockholm?" asked Paul.
"One hundred and thirty-five thousand," replied Moeller. "It was
founded by King Birger in 1250."
"There is a monitor," said Paul, pointing to the waters near
Castelholmen, not far from the anchorage of the squadron.
"We have four in the Swedish navy, and Russia has plenty of them.
Ericsson, who invented them, was a Swede, you know."
After the tourists had surveyed the panorama to their satisfaction,
they descended, and entering the carriage, drove over to the
Riddarholm, where the guide pointed out the church, the statue of
Gustavus Vasa, the house of the Nobles, and other objects of interest.
Returning to the quay, they stopped to look at the little steamers
which were whisking about in every direction.
"That is the National Museum," said Moeller, pointing to a large and
elegant building across the stream.
"I should like to sail in one of those little boats," said Mrs.
Kendall.
"We can go over and back in ten minutes, if you like," added the
guide.
"Let us go."
The party alighted from the carriage, and entered the little boat.
"How much did you pay, Paul?" asked Grace.
"The fare is no larger than the boat. It is three oere each person."
"How much is that?"
"Let me see; eight tenths of a cent, or less than a halfpenny,
English."
The excursionists returned without landing.
"I should like to go again," said Grace. "It is delightful sailing in
such dear little steamers."
"If you please, we will ride over to the Djurgarden, and return by the
steamer, which will land us at the Stroemparterre," said the guide.
This proposition was accepted, and by a circuitous route they reached
the place indicated, which, in English, is the Deer Garden. It is on
an island, separated from the main land by a channel. The southern
portion of it is a thickly-populated village, but the principal part
of the island is laid out as a park, of which the people of Stockholm
are justly proud. It was originally a sterile tract of land: the first
improvements converted it into a deer park for the royal use; but
Gustaf III. and Charles (XIV.) John, as Bernadotte was styled,
turned it into a public park. It is laid out in walks and avenues
beautifully shaded with oaks and other trees. The land is undulating,
and parts of it command splendid views of the islands and watercourses
in the vicinity. On the outskirts is an asylum for the blind and for
deaf mutes. Rosendahl, a country house, built by Charles John in 1830,
and often occupied by him, is quite near the park.
The party drove through the principal avenues of the garden, and
stopped at the bust of Bellman, the great poet of Sweden, whose
birthday is annually celebrated here with music and festivities.
Around the park are various tea-gardens, cafes, and other places of
amusement, including a theatre, circus, and opera-house for summer
use. There is an Alhambra, with a restaurant; a Tivoli, with a
concert-room; a Novilla, with a winter garden, and a concert hall for
summer. The tourists stopped at Hasselbacken, which is celebrated for
its good dinners at moderate prices. The visitors seated themselves in
a broad veranda, overlooking a garden filled with little tables, in
the centre of which was a kiosk for the music. The viands, especially
the salmon, were very nice, and the coffee, as usual, was excellent.
After dinner a short walk brought the party to the landing-place of
the little steamers, where, paying eight oere, or about two cents,
each, they embarked. The boat flew along at great speed for such a
small craft, whisked under the Skeppsholm bridge, and in a few moments
landed the tourists at the circular stone quay, which surrounds the
Stroemparterre. Paul and his lady walked to the hotel, and the doctor
and the captain went to the Skeppsbron, where a boat soon conveyed
them to the ship.
Sanford and Stockwell had been on board several hours, and had had
time to make up their minds in regard to their future course. They had
considered the advice of the boatswain, and finally concluded to adopt
it. Clyde Blacklock was as tame as a parlor poodle. His experience in
running away, especially after his three days on board of the Rensdyr,
was far from satisfactory.
"I suppose I must go into that cage again," said he, when he went on
board.
"That depends on yourself," replied Peaks. "If you say that you don't
intend to run away again, we shall not put you in the brig."
"I think I won't," added Clyde.
"You think?"
"Well, I know I won't. I will try to do the best I can."
"That's all we ask," said Peaks. "You can say all this to the
principal."
Mr. Lowington returned earlier than most of the ship's company, and
Peaks reported to him immediately. The coxswain and his associate were
called up first.
"We have come on board, sir," said Sanford, touching his cap.
"I see you have. You have been gone a long time, and I have been told
that you had some difficulty in finding the ship," added the
principal.
"We have concluded to tell the whole truth, sir," said Sanford,
hanging his head.
"I am very glad to hear that."
"We didn't wish to find the ship."
"Can you explain the accident by which the second cutter was stove at
Christiansand?"
"I did it on purpose; but no other fellow was to blame, or knew
anything about it."
"I am astonished to think you should expose the lives of your crew, by
pushing your boat right into the path of a steamer."
"I didn't do it, sir, till the steamer had stopped her wheels. I
wanted to get on board of her, and leave the ship. In Norway, I
cheated the rest of the party, and led them out of the way."
"How could you do that?"
"I told Ole what to say."
"Then you wished to travel alone?"
"Yes, sir."
Sanford and Stockwell made a clean breast of it, explaining how they
had lost trains and steamers, and thus avoided returning to the ship.
"Then Ole is a rogue as well as the rest of you, it seems."
"He did what I told him to do, and paid him for doing," replied
Sanford.
"He is a runaway, too," interposed the boatswain, who proceeded to
tell the story of the waif. "The boy has suffered a good deal from the
ill-treatment of his step-father."
"I am sorry for him; but his character does not seem to be up to the
average of that of his countrymen. I don't think we want him on
board," replied Mr. Lowington. "As you say this Olaf has no claim for
his services, we will see about him."
The Rensdyr had by this time arrived at the quay, and it was not
believed that Captain Olaf would permit his step-son, whose services
seemed to be of so much value to him, to escape without making an
effort to reclaim him. After all hands had returned from the shore, he
put in an appearance, and seeing Peaks in the waist, directed his
steps towards him. The profusion of fine uniforms, the order and
discipline that reigned on deck, and the dignified mien of the
instructors who were walking back and forth, seemed to produce an
impression upon the mind of the rough skipper, for he took off his
hat, and appeared to be as timid as though he had come into the
presence of the king.
"Good evening, Captain Olaf," said the boatswain.
"I want the boy Ole," replied the skipper, bowing, and returning the
salutation.
"You must talk with the principal about that."
"I don't understand."
Peaks conducted Olaf to the quarter-deck, where Mr. Lowington was
conversing with Mr. and Mrs. Kendall, who had come on board to visit
their old friends.
"This is the man that claims Ole," said the boatswain.
"I want the boy, sir," added Captain Olaf, bowing as gracefully as he
knew how.
"If Ole chooses to go with you, he may go," replied the principal.
"He does not choose to go."
"I certainly shall not compel him to go," continued Mr. Lowington.
"I will make him go."
"I shall allow no violence on board of this ship."
"But he is my boy; the son of my wife that is dead."
"He is not your son, and you have no more claim on him than I have.
The boy is an orphan. Have you been appointed his guardian?"
This question was out of Olaf's depth in the English language; but it
was translated into Danish by Professor Badois, and the skipper did
not pretend that he had any legal authority over the boy.
"But I have fed and clothed him, and he must work for me," said he.
"Ole says you did not feed him, and he had nothing but a few dirty
rags on when we picked him up. I have nothing to do with the matter.
Ole is free to go or stay, just as he pleases," replied the principal,
turning away from the skipper, to intimate that he wished to say
nothing more about the matter.
"The boy is here, and I shall make him go with me," said Olaf, looking
ugly enough to do anything.
Mr. Lowington glanced at Peaks, and appeared to be satisfied that no
harm would come to Ole. Olaf walked back into the waist, and then to
the forecastle, glancing at every student he met, in order to identify
his boy.
"See here, Norway; there comes your guardian genius," said Scott,
who, with a dozen others, had gathered around the trembling waif,
determined to protect him if their services were needed. "Bear a hand,
and tumble down the fore-hatch. Herr Skippenboggin is after you."
Ole heeded this good advice, and followed by his supporters, he
descended to the steerage. Olaf saw him, and was about to descend the
ladder, when Peaks interfered.
"You can't go down there," said he, decidedly.
"I want the boy," replied Olaf.
"No visitors in the steerage without an invitation."
"I will have Ole;" and the skipper began to descend.
"Avast, my hearty," interposed the boatswain, laying violent hands on
Olaf, and dragging him to the deck.
Bitts, the carpenter, and Leach, the sailmaker, placed themselves
beside the boatswain, as the Norwegian picked himself up.
"You may leave the ship, now," said Peaks, pointing to the
accommodation stairs.
Olaf looked at the three stout men before him, and prudence triumphed
over his angry passions.
"I will have the boy yet," said he, as he walked to the stairs,
closely attended by the three forward officers.
He went down into his boat, declaring that he would seize upon Ole the
first time he caught him on shore.
"Where is Clyde?" asked Mr. Lowington, as soon as the savage skipper
had gone.
"He is forward, sir; he behaves like a new man, and says he will not
run away," replied Peaks.
"Send him aft."
"Ay, ay, sir."
Clyde went aft. He was a boy of quick impulses and violent temper. He
had been accustomed to have his own way; and this had done more to
spoil him than anything else. He had to learn that there was a power
greater than himself, to which he must submit. He had twice run away,
and failed both times. Three days of fear and absolute misery on board
of the Rensdyr had given him time to think. He determined, when he
reached Stockholm, to return to his mother, and try to be a better
boy. Peaks, in the little steamer, had come upon him like a ghost. He
had expected never again to see the ship, or his particular tormentor;
and to have the latter appear to him in such an extraordinary manner
was very impressive, to say the least. He realized that he must
submit; but this thought, like that of resistance before, was only an
impulse.
Clyde submitted, and was even candid enough to say so to the
principal, who talked to him very gently and kindly for an hour,
pointing out to him the ruin which he was seeking.
"We will try you again, Clyde," said Mr. Lowington. "We will wipe out
the past, and begin again. You may go forward."
The next day was Sunday, and for a change, the officers and crews of
the several vessels were permitted to land, and march to the English
church in Stockholm. The neat and pleasant little church was crowded
to its utmost capacity by the attendance of such a large number. Mr.
Agneau, the chaplain, was invited to take a part in the service, and
as Mrs. Kendall, Mrs. Shuffles, and many of the ship's company were
good singers, the vocal music was better than usual.
On Monday morning commenced the serious business of sight-seeing in
Stockholm. The royal palace, one of the largest and finest in Europe,
and the most prominent building in the city, was the first place to be
visited. It is four hundred and eighteen feet long, by three hundred
and ninety-one wide, with a large court-yard in the middle, from which
are the principal entrances. The lower story is of granite; the rest
of brick, covered with stucco. The students walked through the vast
number of apartments it contains; through red chambers, green
chambers, blue chambers, and yellow chambers, as they are designated,
through the royal chapel, which is as large as a good-sized church,
and through the throne-room, where the king opens the sessions of the
Diet. Several were devoted to the Swedish orders of knighthood. The
ceilings and walls of the state apartments are beautifully adorned
with allegorical and mythological paintings.
The chamber of Bernadotte, or Charles John, remains just as it was
during his last sickness. On the bed lies his military cloak, which
he wore in his great campaigns. His cane, the gift of Charles XIII.,
stands in the room. The walls are covered with green silk, and adorned
with portraits of the royal family. The apartments actually occupied
by the present king were found to be far inferior in elegance to many
republican rooms. His chamber has a pine floor, with no carpet; but
it looked more home-like than the great barn-like state-rooms. In a
series of small and rather low apartments are several collections of
curious and antique articles, such as a collection of arms, including
a pair of pistols presented to the king by President Lincoln; and of
pipes, containing every variety in use, in the smoking-room. The
king's library looks like business, for its volumes seemed to be for
use rather than ornament. The billiard-room is quite cosy, and his
chamber contains photographs of various royal personages, as the
Prince of Wales, the Queen of England, and others, which look as
though the king had friends, and valued them like common people. His
majesty paints very well for a king, and the red cabinet contains
pictures by him, and by Oscar I. The queen's apartments, as well as
the king's, seemed to the boys like a mockery of royalty, for they
were quite plain and comfortable. The entire palace contains five
hundred and eighty-three rooms.
The whole forenoon was employed in visiting the palace, and the
students went on board the vessels to dinner. As the day was pleasant,
a boat excursion to Drottningholm was planned, and the fourteen boats
of the squadron were soon in line. A pilot was in the commodore's
barge, to indicate the course. Passing under the North Bridge, the
excursion entered the waters of the Maeler Lake. A pull of two hours
among beautiful islands, covered with the fresh green of spring,
through narrow and romantic passages, brought them to their
destination. In some places, within five miles of Stockholm, the
scene was so quiet, and nature so primitive, that the excursionists
could have believed they were hundreds of miles from the homes of
civilization. Two or three of the islands had a house or two upon
them; but generally they seemed to be unimproved. The boats varied
their order at the command of Commodore Cumberland, and when there
were any spectators, nothing could exceed their astonishment at the
display.
At Drottningholm, or Queen's Island, there is a fine palace, built by
the widow of Charles X., and afterwards improved and embellished by
the kings of Sweden. Attached to it is a beautiful garden, adorned
with fountains and statues. The party went through the palace, which
contains a great many historical paintings, and some rooms fitted up
in Chinese style. As the students were about to embark, a char-a-banc,
a kind of open omnibus, drawn by four horses, drove up to the palace,
and a plainly-dressed lady alighted. She stood on the portico, looking
at the students; and the pilot said she was the Queen Dowager, wife of
Oscar I. Of course the boys looked at her with quite as much interest
as she regarded them. The commodore called for three cheers for the
royal lady, who was the daughter of Eugene Beauharnais, and
granddaughter of the Empress Josephine. She waved her handkerchief in
return for the salute, and the students were soon pulling down the
lake towards Stockholm.
The next forenoon was devoted to the Royal Museum, which has been
recently erected. It contains a vast quantity of Swedish antiquities
and curiosities, with illustrations of national manners and customs.
It contains specimens of the various implements used in the ages of
wood, stone, bronze, and iron, collections of coins and medals, armor,
engravings, sculptures, and paintings, including a few works of
the great masters of every school in Europe. The students were
particularly interested in what Scott irreverently called the "Old
Clothes Room," in which were deposited in glass cases the garments and
other articles belonging to the Swedish kings and queens, such as the
cradle and toys of Charles XII., and the huge sword with which he
defended himself against the Turks at Bender; the sword of Gustavus
Vasa; the costume of Gustaf III., which he wore when he was shot in
the opera-house by Ankarstroem; the baton of Gustaf Adolf, and the
watch of Queen Christina.
In the afternoon the students made an excursion by steamer to
Ulriksdal, the summer residence of Bernadotte, Oscar I., and of the
present king. It is a beautiful place, and is filled with objects of
historical interest. The furniture is neat, pretty, and comfortable.
The chamber of the king is the plainest of all, but the bed was used
by Gustaf II. in Germany. Every chair, table, and mirror has its
history. There is a collection of beer mugs in one chamber, and of
pipes in another. The place is full of interest to the curious. In the
water in front of the palace were several gilded pleasure-boats, and a
fanciful steamer for the use of the royal family.
The steamer in which the party had gone to Ulriksdal was one of the
larger class, though the company was all she could carry. She made her
way through the several arms of the sea, between the islands, passing
through two drawbridges. For the return trip four of the smaller
steamers had been engaged, each of which would carry about fifty
boys. A short distance from the palace, the boats turned into a narrow
stream, passing under bridges, in places so contracted that the engine
had to be stopped, and the banks were thoroughly washed. Then they
entered a lagoon, bordered with villas, and surrounded by pleasant
scenery. Landing at a point in the northern suburb, most of the
students walked through the city to the quay, though several omnibuses
ply between this point and the centre of the city.
The next day opened with a visit to Riddarholm. The church, or
Riddarholmskyrkan, on this island, was formerly a convent, but is now
the mausoleum of the most celebrated kings of Sweden. It was once a
Gothic structure; but the addition of several chapels on the sides,
for monuments, has completely changed the appearance of the structure.
It is remarkable for nothing except the tombs within it. Formerly it
contained a number of equestrian figures, clothed in armor, which was
valued as relics of the ancient time, including that of Birger Jarl,
the founder of the city, and of Charles IX.; but all these have been
removed to the National Museum, which is certainly a more appropriate
place for them. On each side of the church are the sepulchral chapels
of Gustavus Adolphus, Charles XII., Bernadotte, and Oscar I. The Queen
Desiree, wife of Bernadotte, and sister-in-law of Joseph Bonaparte,
with others of the royal family, and some of the great captains of the
Thirty Years' War, are buried here. In the chapels of Gustavus and
Charles XII. are placed many of the trophies of their victories, such
as flags, drums, swords, and keys.
The party then visited the Riddarhus, where the nobles meet, which is
the scene of several great historical events, and contains the shields
of three thousand Swedish nobles. From this point the tourists went to
Mosebacke, a celebrated tea garden, on the high land in the southern
suburb, where they ascended to the roof of the theatre in order to
obtain a view of the city and its surroundings.
On Thursday, the students made an excursion to Upsala, the ancient
capital of Sweden, which contains a fine old cathedral, where Gustavus
Vasa and two of his wives are buried. His tomb was hardly more
interesting to the Americans than that of Linnaeus, the great botanist,
who was born in Upsala, and buried in this church. Other Swedish kings
are also buried here. The party visited the university, which contains
some curious old books and manuscripts, such as an old Icelandic Edda;
the Bible, with written notes by Luther and Melanchthon; the Journal
of Linnaeus, and the first book ever printed in Sweden, in 1483. The
house of the great botanist and the botanical garden were not
neglected. The tourists returned to Stockholm in a special steamer,
through an arm of Lake Maeler, and landed at the Riddarholm. On Friday
some of the students went to the Navy Yard, and on board of a monitor,
while others wandered about the city and its suburbs.
After spending a week in the harbor, the voyagers felt that they had
seen enough of Sweden; and early on Saturday morning, with a pilot on
board of each vessel, the squadron sailed for the Aland Islands, in
the Baltic, where the principal decided to pass a week. The vessels
lay in the channels between the islands, and the students attended to
the regular routine of study and seamanship. Occasional excursions
were made on shore, mostly at the uninhabited islands. Journals of
what had been seen in Norway, Denmark, and Sweden were written up; but
the students were very anxious to visit Russia.
Ole Amundsen was very careful to avoid his step-father while he
remained in Stockholm. He hardly went on shore, so great was his dread
of the cruel skipper of the Rensdyr; and no one rejoiced more heartily
than he to leave the Swedish waters. Mr. Lowington did not desire to
retain him on board; but the waif begged so hard to remain, and the
students liked him so well, that he was finally engaged as an
assistant steward in the steerage, at twelve dollars a month; but he
made double this sum, besides, out of the boys, by the exercise of his
genius in mending clothes, cleaning shoes, and similar services, which
the students preferred to pay for, rather than do themselves.
Clyde Blacklock kept his promise as well as he could, and soon learned
his duty as a seaman. Though he certainly improved, his violent temper
and imperious manners kept him continually in hot water. He could not
forget his old grudge against Burchmore, and during an excursion on
one of the Aland Islands, he attacked him, but was soundly thrashed
for his trouble, and punished on board when his black eye betrayed
him. While he is improving there is hope for him.
The runaways promised so much and behaved so well, that none of them
were punished as yet, though Sanford was deprived of his position as
coxswain of the second cutter; but whether they were to be allowed any
liberty in Russia, they were not informed.
At the close of the week among the islands, the squadron was headed
for Abo, in Finland, which is now a province of Russia; and what they
saw and did there, and in other parts of the vast empire, will be
related in NORTHERN LANDS, OR YOUNG AMERICA IN RUSSIA AND PRUSSIA.