SARATOGA

It was the 22d of August, and the height of the season at Saratoga.

Familiar as King had been with these Springs, accustomed as the artist

was to foreign Spas, the scene was a surprise to both. They had been

told that fashion had ceased to patronize it, and that its old-time

character was gone. But Saratoga is too strong for the whims of fashion;

its existence does not depend upon its decrees; it has reached the point

where it cannot be killed by the inroads of Jew or Gentile. In ceasing

to be a society centre, it has become in a manner metropolitan; for the

season it is no longer a provincial village, but the meeting-place of as

mixed and heterogeneous a throng as flows into New York from all the

Union in the autumn shopping period.

It was race week, but the sporting men did not give Saratoga their

complexion. It was convention time, but except in the hotel corridors

politicians were not the feature of the place. One of the great hotels

was almost exclusively occupied by the descendants of Abraham, but the

town did not at all resemble Jerusalem. Innumerable boarding-houses

swarmed with city and country clergymen, who have a well-founded

impression that the waters of the springs have a beneficent relation to

the bilious secretions of the year, but the resort had not an oppressive

air of sanctity. Nearly every prominent politician in the State and a

good many from other States registered at the hotels, but no one seemed

to think that the country was in danger. Hundreds of men and women were

there because they had been there every year for thirty or forty years

back, and they have no doubt that their health absolutely requires a week

at Saratoga; yet the village has not the aspect of a sanitarium. The

hotel dining-rooms and galleries were thronged with large, overdressed

women who glittered with diamonds and looked uncomfortable in silks and

velvets, and Broadway was gay with elegant equipages, but nobody would go

to Saratoga to study the fashions. Perhaps the most impressive spectacle

in this lowly world was the row of millionaires sunning themselves every

morning on the piazza of the States, solemn men in black broadcloth and

white hats, who said little, but looked rich; visitors used to pass that

way casually, and the townspeople regarded them with a kind of awe, as if

they were the king-pins of the whole social fabric; but even these

magnates were only pleasing incidents in the kaleidoscopic show.

The first person King encountered on the piazza of the Grand Union was

not the one he most wished to see, although it could never be otherwise

than agreeable to meet his fair cousin, Mrs. Bartlett Glow. She was in a

fresh morning toilet, dainty, comme il faut, radiant, with that

unobtrusive manner of "society" which made the present surroundings,

appear a trifle vulgar to King, and to his self-disgust forced upon him

the image of Mrs. Benson.

"You here?" was his abrupt and involuntary exclamation.

"Yes--why not?" And then she added, as if from the Newport point of view

some explanation were necessary: "My husband thinks he must come here for

a week every year to take the waters; it's an old habit, and I find it

amusing for a few days. Of course there is nobody here. Will you take

me to the spring? Yes, Congress. I'm too old to change. If I believed

the pamphlets the proprietors write about each other's springs I should

never go to either of them."

Mrs. Bartlett Glow was not alone in saying that nobody was there. There

were scores of ladies at each hotel who said the same thing, and who

accounted for their own presence there in the way she did. And they were

not there at all in the same way they would be later at Lenox. Mrs.

Pendragon, of New Orleans, who was at the United States, would have said

the same thing, remembering the time when the Southern colony made a very

distinct impression upon the social life of the place; and the Ashleys,

who had put up at the Congress Hall in company with an old friend, a

returned foreign minister, who stuck to the old traditions--even the

Ashleys said they were only lookers-on at the pageant.

Paying their entrance, and passing through the turnstile in the pretty

pavilion gate, they stood in the Congress Spring Park. The band was

playing in the kiosk; the dew still lay on the flowers and the green

turf; the miniature lake sparkled in the sun. It is one of the most

pleasing artificial scenes in the world; to be sure, nature set the great

pine-trees on the hills, and made the graceful little valley, but art and

exquisite taste have increased the apparent size of the small plot of

ground, and filled it with beauty. It is a gem of a place with a

character of its own, although its prettiness suggests some foreign Spa.

Groups of people, having taken the water, were strolling about the

graveled paths, sitting on the slopes overlooking the pond, or wandering

up the glen to the tiny deer park.

"So you have been at the White Sulphur?" said Mrs. Glow. "How did you

like it?"

"Immensely. It's the only place left where there is a congregate social

life."

"You mean provincial life. Everybody knows everybody else."

"Well," King retorted, with some spirit, "it is not a place where people

pretend not to know each other, as if their salvation depended on it."

"Oh, I see; hospitable, frank, cordial-all that. Stanhope, do you know,

I think you are a little demoralized this summer. Did you fall in love

with a Southern belle? Who was there?"

"Well, all the South, pretty much. I didn't fall in love with all the

belles; we were there only two weeks. Oh! there was a Mrs. Farquhar

there."

"Georgiana Randolph! Georgie! How did she look? We were at Madame

Sequin's together, and a couple of seasons in Paris. Georgie! She was

the handsomest, the wittiest, the most fascinating woman I ever saw. I

hope she didn't give you a turn?"

"Oh, no. But we were very good friends. She is a very handsome woman

--perhaps you would expect me to say handsome still; but that seems a

sort of treason to her mature beauty."

"And who else?"

"Oh, the Storbes from New Orleans, the Slifers from Mobile--no end of

people--some from Philadelphia--and Ohio."

"Ohio? Those Bensons!" said she, turning sharply on him.

"Yes, those Bensons, Penelope. Why not?"

"Oh, nothing. It's a free country. I hope, Stanhope, you didn't

encourage her. You might make her very unhappy."

"I trust not," said King stoutly. "We are engaged."

"Engaged!" repeated Mrs. Glow, in a tone that implied a whole world of

astonishment and improbability.

"Yes, and you are just in time to congratulate us. There they are!" Mr.

Benson, Mrs. Benson, and Irene were coming down the walk from the deer

park. King turned to meet them, but Mrs. Glow was close at his side, and

apparently as pleased at seeing them again as the lover. Nothing could be

more charming than the grace and welcome she threw into her salutations.

She shook hands with Mr. Benson; she was delighted to meet Mrs. Benson

again, and gave her both her little hands; she almost embraced Irene,

placed a hand on each shoulder, kissed her on the cheek, and said

something in a low voice that brought the blood to the girl's face and

suffused her eyes with tenderness.

When the party returned to the hotel the two women were walking lovingly

arm in arm, and King was following after, in the more prosaic atmosphere

of Cyrusville, Ohio. The good old lady began at once to treat King as

one of the family; she took his arm, and leaned heavily on it, as they

walked, and confided to him all her complaints. The White Sulphur

waters, she said, had not done her a mite of good; she didn't know but

she'd oughter see a doctor, but he said that it warn't nothing but

indigestion. Now the White Sulphur agreed with Irene better than any

other place, and I guess that I know the reason why, Mr. King, she said,

with a faintly facetious smile. Meantime Mrs. Glow was talking to Irene

on the one topic that a maiden is never weary of, her lover; and so

adroitly mingled praises of him with flattery of herself that the girl's

heart went out to her in entire trust.

"She is a charming girl," said Mrs. Glow to King, later. "She needs a

little forming, but that will be easy when she is separated from her

family. Don't interrupt me. I like her. I don't say I like it. But if

you will go out of your set, you might do a great deal worse. Have you

written to your uncle and to your aunt?"

"No; I don't know why, in a matter wholly personal to myself, I should

call a family council. You represent the family completely, Penelope."

"Yes. Thanks to my happening to be here. Well, I wouldn't write to them

if I were you. It's no use to disturb the whole connection now. By the

way, Imogene Cypher was at Newport after you left; she is more beautiful

than ever--just lovely; no other girl there had half the attention."

"I am glad to hear it," said King, who did not fancy the drift their

conversation was taking. "I hope she will make a good match. Brains are

not necessary, you know."

"Stanhope, I never said that--never. I might have said she wasn't a bas

bleu. No more is she. But she has beauty, and a good temper, and money.

It isn't the cleverest women who make the best wives, sir."

"Well, I'm not objecting to her being a wife. Only it does not follow

that, because my uncle and aunts are in love with her, I should want to

marry her."

"I said nothing about marriage, my touchy friend. I am not advising you

to be engaged to two women at the same time. And I like Irene

immensely."

It was evident that she had taken a great fancy to the girl. They were

always together; it seemed to happen so, and King could hardly admit to

himself that Mrs. Glow was de trop as a third. Mr. Bartlett Glow was

very polite to King and his friend, and forever had one excuse and

another for taking them off with him--the races or a lounge about town.

He showed them one night, I am sorry to say, the inside of the Temple of

Chance and its decorous society, its splendid buffet, the quiet tables of

rouge et noir, and the highly respectable attendants--aged men,

whitehaired, in evening costume, devout and almost godly in appearance,

with faces chastened to resignation and patience with a wicked world,

sedate and venerable as the deacons in a Presbyterian church. He was

lonesome and wanted company, and, besides, the women liked to be by

themselves occasionally.

One might be amused at the Saratoga show without taking an active part in

it, and indeed nobody did seem to take a very active part in it.

Everybody was looking on. People drove, visited the springs--in a vain

expectation that excessive drinking of the medicated waters would

counteract the effect of excessive gormandizing at the hotels--sat about

in the endless rows of armchairs on the piazzas, crowded the heavily

upholstered parlors, promenaded in the corridors, listened to the music

in the morning, and again in the afternoon, and thronged the stairways

and passages, and blocked up the entrance to the ballrooms. Balls? Yes,

with dress de rigueur, many beautiful women in wonderful toilets, a few

debutantes, a scarcity of young men, and a delicious band--much better

music than at the White Sulphur.

And yet no society. But a wonderful agglomeration, the artist was

saying. It is a robust sort of place. If Newport is the queen of the

watering-places, this is the king. See how well fed and fat the people

are, men and women large and expansive, richly dressed, prosperous

--looking! What a contrast to the family sort of life at the White

Sulphur! Here nobody, apparently, cares for anybody else--not much; it

is not to be expected that people should know each other in such a

heterogeneous concern; you see how comparatively few greetings there are

on the piazzas and in the parlors. You notice, too, that the types are

not so distinctively American as at the Southern resort--full faces,

thick necks--more like Germans than Americans. And then the everlasting

white hats. And I suppose it is not certain that every man in a tall

white hat is a politician, or a railway magnate, or a sporting man.

These big hotels are an epitome of expansive, gorgeous American life. At

the Grand Union, King was No. 1710, and it seemed to him that he walked

the length of the town to get to his room after ascending four stories.

He might as well, so far as exercise was concerned, have taken an

apartment outside. And the dining-room. Standing at the door, he had a

vista of an eighth of a mile of small tables, sparkling with brilliant

service of glass and porcelain, chandeliers and frescoed ceiling. What

perfect appointments! what well-trained waiters!--perhaps they were not

waiters, for he was passed from one "officer" to another "officer" down

to his place. At the tables silent couples and restrained family

parties, no hilarity, little talking; and what a contrast this was to the

happy-go-lucky service and jollity of the White Sulphur! Then the

interior parks of the United States and the Grand Union, with corridors

and cottages, close-clipped turf, banks of flowers, forest trees,

fountains, and at night, when the band filled all the air with seductive

strains, the electric and the colored lights, gleaming through the

foliage and dancing on fountains and greensward, made a scene of

enchantment. Each hotel was a village in itself, and the thousands of

guests had no more in common than the frequenters of New York hotels and

theatres. But what a paradise for lovers!

"It would be lonesome enough but for you, Irene," Stanhope said, as they

sat one night on the inner piazza of the Grand Union, surrendering

themselves to all the charms of the scene.

"I love it all," she said, in the full tide of her happiness.

On another evening they were at the illumination of the Congress Spring

Park. The scene seemed the creation of magic. By a skillful arrangement

of the colored globes an illusion of vastness was created, and the little

enclosure, with its glowing lights, was like the starry heavens for

extent. In the mass of white globes and colored lanterns of paper the

eye was deceived as to distances. The allies stretched away

interminably, the pines seemed enormous, and the green hillsides

mountainous. Nor were charming single effects wanting. Down the winding

walk from the hill, touched by a distant electric light, the loitering

people, in couples and in groups, seemed no more in real life than the

supernumeraries in a scene at the opera. Above, in the illuminated

foliage, were doubtless a castle and a broad terrace, with a row of

statues, and these gay promenaders were ladies and cavaliers in an

old-time masquerade. The gilded kiosk on the island in the centre of the

miniature lake and the fairy bridge that leads to it were outlined by

colored globes; and the lake, itself set about with brilliants, reflected

kiosk and bridge and lights, repeating a hundredfold the fantastic scene,

while from their island retreat the band sent out through the illumined

night strains of sentiment and gayety and sadness. In the intervals of

the music there was silence, as if the great throng were too deeply

enjoying this feast of the senses to speak. Perhaps a foreigner would

have been impressed with the decorous respectability of the assembly; he

would have remarked that there were no little tables scattered about the

ground, no boys running about with foaming mugs of beer, no noise, no

loud talking; and how restful to all the senses!

Mrs. Bartlett Glow had the whim to devote herself to Mrs. Benson, and was

repaid by the acquisition of a great deal of information concerning the

social and domestic, life in Cyrusville, Ohio, and the maternal ambition

for Irene. Stanhope and Irene sat a little apart from the others, and

gave themselves up to the witchery of the hour. It would not be easy to

reproduce in type all that they said; and what was most important to

them, and would be most interesting to the reader, are the things they

did not say--the half exclamations, the delightful silences, the tones,

the looks that are the sign language of lovers. It was Irene who first

broke the spell of this delightful mode of communication, and in a pause

of the music said, "Your cousin has been telling me of your relatives in

New York, and she told me more of yourself than you ever did."

"Very likely. Trust your friends for that. I hope she gave me a good

character."

"Oh, she has the greatest admiration for you, and she said the family

have the highest expectations of your career. Why didn't you tell me you

were the child of such hopes? It half frightened me."

"It must be appalling. What did she say of my uncle and aunts?"

"Oh, I cannot tell you, except that she raised an image in my mind of an

awful vision of ancient family and exclusiveness, the most fastidious,

delightful, conventional people, she said, very old family, looked down

upon Washington Irving, don't you know, because he wrote. I suppose she

wanted to impress me with the value of the prize I've drawn, dear. But I

should like you just as well if your connections had not looked down on

Irving. Are they so very high and mighty?"

"Oh, dear, no. Much like other people. My aunts are the dearest old

ladies, just a little nearsighted, you know, about seeing people that are

not--well, of course, they live in a rather small world. My uncle is a

bachelor, rather particular, not what you would call a genial old man;

been abroad a good deal, and moved mostly in our set; sometimes I think

he cares more for his descent than for his position at the bar, which is

a very respectable one, by the way. You know what an old bachelor is who

never has had anybody to shake him out of his contemplation of his

family?"

"Do you think," said Irene, a little anxiously, letting her hand rest a

moment upon Stanhope's, "that they will like poor little me? I believe I

am more afraid of the aunts than of the uncle. I don't believe they will

be as nice as your cousin."

"Of course they will like you. Everybody likes you. The aunts are just

a little old-fashioned, that is all. Habit has made them draw a social

circle with a small radius. Some have one kind of circle, some another.

Of course my aunts are sorry for any one who is not descended from the

Van Schlovenhovens--the old Van Schlovenhoven had the first brewery of

the colony in the time of Peter Stuyvesant. In New York it's a family

matter, in Philadelphia it's geographical. There it's a question whether

you live within the lines of Chestnut Street and Spruce Street--outside

of these in the city you are socially impossible: Mrs. Cortlandt told me

that two Philadelphia ladies who had become great friends at a summer

resort--one lived within and the other without the charmed lines--went

back to town together in the autumn. At the station when they parted,

the 'inside' lady said to the other: 'Good-by. It has been such a

pleasure to know you! I suppose I shall see you sometimes at

Moneymaker's!' Moneymaker's is the Bon Marche of Philadelphia."

The music ceased; the band were hurrying away; the people all over the

grounds were rising to go, lingering a little, reluctant to leave the

enchanting scene. Irene wished, with a sigh, that it might never end;

unreal as it was, it was more native to her spirit than that future which

her talk with Stanhope had opened to her contemplation. An ill-defined

apprehension possessed her in spite of the reassuring presence of her

lover and her perfect confidence in the sincerity of his passion; and

this feeling was somehow increased by the appearance of Mrs. Glow with

her mother; she could not shake off the uneasy suggestion of the

contrast.

At the hour when the ladies went to their rooms the day was just

beginning for a certain class of the habitues. The parlors were nearly

deserted, and few chairs were occupied on the piazzas, but the ghosts of

another generation seemed to linger, especially in the offices and

barroom. Flitting about were to be seen the social heroes who had a

notoriety thirty and forty years ago in the newspapers. This dried-up

old man in a bronze wig, scuffling along in list slippers, was a famous

criminal lawyer in his day; this gentleman, who still wears an air of

gallantry, and is addressed as General, had once a reputation for

successes in the drawing-room as well as on the field of Mars; here is a

genuine old beau, with the unmistakable self-consciousness of one who has

been a favorite of the sex, but who has slowly decayed in the midst of

his cosmetics; here saunter along a couple of actors with the air of

being on the stage. These people all have the "nightcap" habit, and

drift along towards the bar-room--the last brilliant scene in the drama

of the idle day, the necessary portal to the realm of silence and sleep.

This is a large apartment, brightly lighted, with a bar extending across

one end of it. Modern taste is conspicuous here, nothing is gaudy,

colors are subdued, and its decorations are simple even the bar itself is

refined, substantial, decorous, wanting entirely the meretricious glitter

and barbarous ornamentation of the old structures of this sort, and the

attendants have wholly laid aside the smart antics of the former

bartender, and the customers are swiftly and silently served by the

deferential waiters. This is one of the most striking changes that King

noticed in American life.

There is a certain sort of life-whether it is worth seeing is a question

that we can see nowhere else, and for an hour Mr. Glow and King and

Forbes, sipping their raspberry shrub in a retired corner of the

bar-room, were interested spectators of the scene. Through the padded

swinging doors entered, as in a play, character after character. Each

actor as he entered stopped for a moment and stared about him, and in

this act revealed his character-his conceit, his slyness, his bravado,

his self-importance. There was great variety, but practically one

prevailing type, and that the New York politician. Most of them were

from the city, though the country politician apes the city politician as

much as possible, but he lacks the exact air, notwithstanding the black

broadcloth and the white hat. The city men are of two varieties--the

smart, perky-nosed, vulgar young ward worker, and the heavy-featured,

gross, fat old fellow. One after another they glide in, with an always

conscious air, swagger off to the bar, strike attitudes in groups, one

with his legs spread, another with a foot behind on tiptoe, another

leaning against the counter, and so pose, and drink "My respects"--all

rather solemn and stiff, impressed perhaps by the decorousness of the

place, and conscious of their good clothes. Enter together three stout

men, a yard across the shoulders, each with an enormous development in

front, waddle up to the bar, attempt to form a triangular group for

conversation, but find themselves too far apart to talk in that position,

and so arrange themselves side by side--a most distinguished-looking

party, like a portion of a swell-front street in Boston. To them

swaggers up a young sport, like one of Thackeray's figures in the "Irish

Sketch-Book"--short, in a white hat, poor face, impudent manner, poses

before the swell fronts, and tosses off his glass. About a little table

in one corner are three excessively "ugly mugs," leering at each other

and pouring down champagne. These men are all dressed as nearly like

gentlemen as the tailor can make them, but even he cannot change their

hard, brutal faces. It is not their fault that money and clothes do not

make a gentleman; they are well fed and vulgarly prosperous, and if you

inquire you will find that their women are in silks and laces. This is a

good place to study the rulers of New York; and impressive as they are in

appearance, it is a relief to notice that they unbend to each other, and

hail one another familiarly as "Billy" and "Tommy." Do they not ape what

is most prosperous and successful in American life? There is one who in

make-up, form, and air, even to the cut of his side-whiskers, is an exact

counterpart of the great railway king. Here is a heavy-faced young

fellow in evening dress, perhaps endeavoring to act the part of a

gentleman, who has come from an evening party unfortunately a little

"slewed," but who does not know how to sustain the character, for

presently he becomes very familiar and confidential with the dignified

colored waiter at the buffet, who requires all his native politeness to

maintain the character of a gentleman for two.

If these men had millions, could they get any more enjoyment out of life?

To have fine clothes, drink champagne, and pose in a fashionable bar-room

in the height of the season--is not this the apotheosis of the "heeler"

and the ward "worker"? The scene had a fascination for the artist, who

declared that he never tired watching the evolutions of the foreign

element into the full bloom of American citizenship.