Like every countryside in Europe, this rich pocket in the valley

of the Moselle has kept its real spirit, its individual soul, alive

underneath the covering of conquest and administration. If Treves were

to-morrow to become again, as it was in the past for so many centuries,

a State, there would be hardly any change to the eye. The same

sharply-cut hills going in succession like cliffs along the valley--the

typical hills of Lorraine which Claude loved--would still carry the

same terraced vineyards, and the specially Northern cultivation of the

grape would show all its accustomed marks.

As one goes up the valley, one may still see upon one of the sandstone

slabs of the steep above the river road, a sign marking the limit of

the jurisdiction of the Archbishop, a crozier and a cross deeply carved

into the smooth rock. It is a symbol of what Treves was in the past, of

its strong local character and individuality. Perhaps some later symbol

will mark the resurrection of that spirit.

There is also in the heart of the town something which the people may

well boast of as a mark of their Western inheritance. It is the first

of the Gothic churches of Germany.

It came surprisingly early. Suger had planted, during the Second

Crusade, three miles north of the Gate of Paris, the aboriginal pointed

arch from which so vast a revolution in architecture was to spring.

You get the cathedral of Notre Dame, and the whole movement of the Ile

de France. But this little church, right up against the tremendous

cathedral of the Dark Ages, this little church here, hundreds of miles

away from the Gallic origin of such things, was begun actually within a

hundred years of Suger's innovation! St. Louis was still a boy, and so

was Henry III of England, when the first stones of the delicate thing

were laid here in Treves. How European and civilised a place it was in

those days!

And talking of this church, I came upon something there even more

astonishing than its early witness to the Western spirit of Treves.

Immediately to the left of the choir I also found a witness of the

_endurance_ of civilisation in Treves--a thing of, I suppose, the other

day--a little statue in freestone, of the most heavenly sort: what the

will of an English king prettily called "_Mariolam quemdam_"--"some

little Madonna or other."

It seemed to be unknown. There was no reproduction of it in the town.

No one had a photograph of it. No one could tell me who had carved it.

It looked quite new. It was as good a thing as even I have seen. And it

was here in Treves! It was in a place which finds itself upon the map

(as the map still insecurely stands) mixed up with the monstrosities of

the monument of Leipsic, the hideous vulgarity of the Hohenzollerns and

their palace at Posen (but I forgot--Posen is no longer counted upon

the same map; it has been restored to civilisation), the comic streets

of Berlin.

Seeing such a noble statue there, I thought to myself of what advantage

it would be if the people who write about Europe would really travel.

If only they would stop going from one large cosmopolitan hotel to

another, and giving us cuttings from newspapers as the expressions of

the popular soul! If only they would peer about and walk and see things

with their eyes!

This little statue to the left of the choir of Treves would be an

education for such men. No longer would they talk of Treves as

something identical with strange and distant Koenigsberg or as a cousin

to base Frankfort. It would no longer be for them a railway station or

a dot upon the map. Even as I looked at that statue I bethought myself

of that other statue: the enormity at Metz. For, as we all know, the

Prussian Government built, or rather plastered, onto the Western porch

of Metz a red statue of the late Emperor and Prussian King. He appears

as the Prophet Daniel! The rest of the cathedral is of a marvellous

and aged grey, but he is red, carved out of red stone. He is dressed

up in a sort of monk's habit with a cowl. His moustaches are turned up

fiercely at the end--and yet the statue is solemnly inscribed with that

title: "The Prophet Daniel"....

These are the things that our generation has seen and that posterity

will not believe.

ON THE CATHEDRAL OF SEVILLE AND "THE MISANTHROPE"

I, within one week, experienced, felt, saw and handled with my mind,

the two chief creations of the human spirit: a marvellous piece of

luck! I heard Mass in Seville Cathedral on an autumn Sunday. The Sunday

after I sat at the Français marvelling at _The Misanthrope_.

These two creations, the one in stone, the other in The Verb, are, so

far as I know, the summit of our European creative power, and therefore

of the world.

They praise the Giralda of Seville, the great tower outside the

Cathedral, and they are right. But they are wrong when they praise it

with a more or less conscious motive of crying up Islam and running

down their own blood. The beauty of the Giralda is not an Islamic

beauty, though Islam built the most of it. It is what it is because

Europe repairs and finishes. If you doubt it you may go and look at

its twin tower, the great Tower of Hassan on the Hill above Rabat.

That huge brown tower at Rabat looks over the Atlantic Seas, towards

its sister, the Giralda: an imperfect thing looking at a perfected

thing: a thing essentially weak because not permanent, looking at a

symbol of permanence: a thing destined to ruin looking at a thing

destined to life. And I say in the maugre of the teeth of those with

whom I disagree that the Giralda would not be the Giralda but for its

Christian cap. However, there it stands, useful at least as a contrast.

For if the Giralda be very beautiful (as it is), what is it compared

to the Cathedral itself? _That_ building can never be excelled. Our

race once, in one great moment of three centuries, reached its highest

level. We shall hardly return to such a summit.

The Gallic spirit had created the Gothic; the unfathomed suggestion of

the perfect ogive, of the uplifted arch of 60 degrees, had spread from

Paris outward; it had built all the ring of great shrines--Chartres,

Beauvais, Amiens, Rheims. It was proceeding in outer circles to

Britain, and even to the Rhine and beyond, and on through the

Reconquista, southwards, shooting up Burgos like a fire, and planting

the nobility of Oviedo and Leon, when the Christian cavalry entered

Seville and began the last and the noblest of all those things. What a

mood of making, what an enlarging passion to produce and to form and

to express, must have possessed the men who through those centuries

completed that thing! It is everything from the thirteenth century to

the _Reyes Catolicos_; it is everything from St. Ferdinand to Ferdinand

and Isabella.

Castille rode in and made this marvellous thing. I wonder what Aragon

would have done? Often, as I have gone down the banks of that torrent,

which is also a god, and which gave its name to a mighty kingdom,

often, as I have gone down the gorge of the Pyrenees with the Aragon

tumbling at my side, I have meditated upon its spirit; broader, I

think, less piercing, with more grasp, less thrust, than the chivalry

to the west, than the raiders of Castille; suffused, I think, with the

Catalan spirit (though they would hate to be told it), and in some way

at once less solemn and yet more solid. That was Aragon.

But Aragon had no chance to spread south. It was blocked. It was

Castille that rode in and made this thing the Cathedral of Seville. And

in making it, Castille made the greatest monument which the race of men

can boast.

There is some unexplained power in proportion which not only

symbolises, not only suggests, but actually presents that which has no

proportions; the illimitable vastness--Eternity.

There is a mystery about just proportion. It has this magic about

it--that it can express at once both the sublime and the merely

accurate. It will suggest repose, it will suggest a disdainful

superiority to inferior things, it carries a patent of nobility always,

but in rare times and places it can also effect what I have said--the

vision of the eternal.

A man in the Cathedral of Seville understands the end of his being. He

is, while standing there on earth, surrounded by stones and rocks of

the earth, with his own body in decay and all about him in decay--he

is, in the midst of all this material affair, yet in some side-manner

out of it all; he is half in possession of the final truths. Nowhere

else in the world, that I know of, has the illimitable fixed itself in

material. Divinity is here impetricate.

It is not only proportion that does this at Seville--it is also

multiplicity. It is not only that mark of true creative power--the

making of something more than that you meant to make--it is also that

other mark of creative power--diversity, endless breeding, burgeoning,

foison, which everywhere clothes this amazing result. Seville has not

(in proportion to its area, its great space) the actual number of

carven things which glorify Brou, the Jewel of the House of Savoy. It

has not perhaps any one statue which will match the immortal Magdalen

of Brou or her cousin Katherine or the modern and (to my astonishment)

German little sandstone Madonna of Treves which I have written of in

this book, nor that other Madonna praying to her own self, which for a

long time I believed to be the loveliest figure in the world. I mean

the one over the Southern porch of Rheims (the barbaric ineptitude

missed it and it still remains). But if Seville has not some one

statue, it has the effect of multiplicity more greatly developed

than any other building I know, and here again you will ask yourself

in vain, as the creators of Seville themselves would have asked

themselves in vain, how that effect arose. It is so; and there stands

Seville. If you would know how silence can be full and how a supreme

unity can be infinitely diverse, if you would touch all the mysteries

and comprehend them as well as they can be comprehended within the

limits of our little passage through the daylight, you must see

Seville. But do not go there in Holy Week.

* * * * *

And _The Misanthrope_.

The supreme art of words is to produce a multiple and profound effect

with simplicity in construction. There is hardly in this masterpiece

one phrase which is not the phrase of convention or of daily use.

Where the words are not the words that men used, or the sentences

the sentences they used at the Court of Louis XIV, then they are the

words conventionally used in the heroic couplets of that day. And each

character has a set of lines to declaim (not very much), and there

is, you may say, no rhetoric, and there is, you may say, no lyric,

no deliberate poignancy; one might venture a paradox and say that in

_The Misanthrope_ there was no "effect," meaning no sudden, sharp,

contrasted effect. This mighty comedy of Molière's represents no more

than the simplest conjunction, the everyday business of a man who

expects too much of mankind, who is in love and expects too much of the

lady, who has a friend, a man who gives him good advice, and another

friend, a woman, who herself would marry him willingly enough, and who

yet advises him quietly and is more a support than a lover. There is

hardly any plot--merely the discovery that the young widow for whom the

Misanthrope feels such passion is a chatterbox and runs her friends

down behind their backs for the sake of tattle. There is the fatuous

bad versifier. There are the silly men of the world.

Such are the materials of _The Misanthrope_, common stones: and into

them a man did once breathe such life that he made a thing standing

quite apart from all his other creations, and something higher than

anything any other had accomplished. What depths and further depths!

What suggestions to the left and to the right! What infinite complexity

of real character (and just that infinite complexity of real character

exists in all of us), shines through those few pages, illumines and

glorifies two hours of acting on a stage!

There is perhaps no man intelligent and sensitive and having passed

the age of forty who will not, as he watches the acting of _The

Misanthrope_, see all that he knows of life passing before him and

sounding exactly in tune with the vibrations of his own soul. There is

passionate love, intense and disappointed, and there is the foil to

passion; that large, that honest, that domestic thing which rare women

possess, and, when they possess it, afford food, sustenance, sacrament

to the life of men. There is friendship; there is the ideal sought and

unattained; there is the disappointment to which all noble souls are

doomed. There is all human story put into one little frame. How? No one

can tell how. Molière himself could not have told how.

When those simple words, spoken quickly and in a low tone--"_Morbleu!

Faut il que je vous aime_"--are heard, the man's whole self, his whole

past (if he has loved fully), his security, his doubt, all of him

respond. Why? I cannot tell. I only know that the great poets do it,

and they themselves do not know how. It is the Muse. It is something

divine. It is inspiration.

It is inspiration. That word was justly framed. It would seem that

among the few consolations afforded to the miserable race of men,

among the little hints of a possible coming Beatitude, the Creator has

especially chosen from his storehouse this gem, this priceless gem, of

poetical power. I am reminded of it when I read the foolish judgment so

often repeated--that the Ancients had no landscape.

[Greek: "... oi rha min ôka

Thêsouo en Lukiês eureiês pioni dêmps."]

When I read that I see what I think Flaxman saw, the sunlight on the

Ægean, the Asian hills, and the fertile plain between; I feel the

warmer air. Yet is there not one word which describes these things,

unless you except the common word and symbol which says that Lycia is

rich. Tennyson did it too: "And the moon was full." So did Byron: "The

moon is up and yet it is not night." So did Shakespeare in "gentle and

low an excellent thing in women." So did Virgil: "_Et inania regna_."

So do they all.

But Molière in _The Misanthrope_ did it _all the time_. It is not

single lines (though I have quoted one); it is the whole river of the

thing, high in flood-tide, up to the top of its banks, broad, deep,

majestic, and upon a scale to which (one would have thought) mere man

could never reach.

All that!

For two hours, hearing this thing, I was quite outside the world; and

the memory of it is a possession which should endure, I think, for

ever; by which word I mean, even beyond the limitations of this life.

But therein I may be wrong.

ON THE "BUCOLICS" OF VIRGIL, A CAFÉ IN PARIS, THE LENGTH OF ESSAYS,

PHŒBUS, BACCHUS, A WANTON MAID, AND OTHER MATTERS

A fruitful subject for discussion in these days of war, foreign and

civil, ruin, approaching pestilence, eclipse and veiling of the gods,

is the proper place in which to read the _Bucolics_ of the poet Virgil.

Some would suggest a pastoral scene--a rising mound near some clear

river, or even the shade of a beech. Others a library brown with age,

dusty, and (please God) all the windows shut; oaken also, the roof not

high, the whole cut up into little compartments each with a wicket-gate

as libraries should be. Others would suggest bed--though that connotes

a complete acquaintance with the text. Others a railway journey, for on

such an occasion the mind is well cut off from interference by modern

things: that is, supposing the railway journey to be a fast one between

two very distant points--for there is no more distracting passage of

time than a journey in a slow train which stops at every station.

Others have suggested ship-board, which seems to me simply silly. For,

apart from the difficulty of reading anything at sea, there is the

gross unsuitability of time and place for the lovely lines of the

Eclogues.

And so on. It is a weighty matter for discussion, and one that can

never end, because it all turns upon an individual whim.

But for my part the place where I like to read the _Bucolics_ of Virgil

is at a table outside the door of a certain café facing the Bourse in

Paris; a table in the open air. The time of day in which this exercise

most pleases me is about two o'clock of an early summer afternoon.

As to why this should be so, I cannot tell. Locke would explain it

perhaps by his "Association of Ideas"; but Locke is dead and gone.

Perhaps once in boyhood, just in that place or in such a place, I first

was struck by the beauty of such and such a line. At any rate, that is

the place where now it pleases me to read the immortal stuff: a certain

café opposite the Bourse in Paris, sitting at a table in the open air,

in summer, with the book before me on a marble slab. There do I best

receive within my mind (aided by a crib) the noble outlines of the

Appennine, the Lombard Plain, the long shadows at evening, the bleating

of the flock.

Some little way before me, as I read, the howling mob, which clamours

all afternoon, buying and selling round the colonnade of the Bourse,

continues its surge. Individual voices at that distance are lost;

all you hear is the sea of human avarice and folly in its violence

confused.

Why on earth this singular piece of baseness, the roar of men buying

and selling and picking each other's pockets, should form a suitable

background in my mind for the delicate notes of the pipe in the wood

and the long regrets of the shepherds, heaven only knows. But so it is.

I wondered only this year as I re-read the heavenly poet in that place

(opposite the Bourse in Paris, the Vile Stock Exchange) whether the

advance of barbarism might not produce--and that in a very few years--a

generation to whom all these lines will be as tedious as is Corneille

to the educated Englishman of to-day.

I can imagine men still reasonably cultivated, still in part acquainted

with the Latin tongue, and yet fallen into such a degraded mood that

only here and there some specially vivid picture or some piece of

stronger rhetoric in the Eclogues shall touch them, while the rest will

appear mechanical, dry stuff. For there is a degree of descent in the

mind after which the magic of verse disappears; and that sacred quality

whereby--none can tell how--a particular disposition of words stirs the

mind in a fashion that is to common experience what music is to speech,

and what colour is to form, no longer effects its purpose.

I was reading the other day in the work of a Colonial, whose amusing

conceits we all properly admire and whose honest morals help to make

his work pleasant, a most amazing judgment passed by him upon the poet

Homer.

It seemed to him that the poet Homer did not write poetry at all. He

said it sounded to him, compared with real poetry, modern poetry, live

poetry (the Cad's Laureate, let us say), like the rude scratching of a

savage knife upon a wall compared with some glorious work of art, such

as a Coronation picture at the Royal Academy.... Well, well, well!...

Shall I attempt to criticise the Colonial? No, I will not.

The truth is, that when you come to criticise certain modern enormities

your instrument fails. The thing is too big for you altogether.

You can pick up a cricket ball with your hand; you can handle a

ten-foot spherical buoy with a crane. But how are you to deal with a

rounded mass several miles across? How are we to deal with _mountains_

of ineptitude? How is criticism to approach those last new literary

moods which are deaf to the ancients? I fear it cannot deal with such

moods at all. If a man feels like that, he feels like that, and one can

say no more. And if there is to come a time when men shall read:

_Incipe, parve puer, risu cognoscere matrem,_

and make no more of it than "Passengers must cross the line by the

bridge. Penalty £5," why, there it is! Things have their rising and

their setting. But before that day comes may the earth cover me.

* * * * *

If the modern world resembled that ancient one of which the echoes,

as I lay down my Virgil, still move my mind, I should here complete,

I should here end. For I have said all that I have to say. And a very

good thing it would be if the modern world resembled the ancient world

in this as in many other things. Their books were ten thousand words

long, or twenty thousand words long, or fifty thousand words long, or

a hundred thousand words long. They had not to conform to a special

length. And so it was with that which they wrote down, as I am writing

this, at random, a vagary of the mind.

But the modern world differs from the ancient world, and there is a law

that an essay such as this (essay, forsooth!) should reach a certain

length.

There are various ways in which I could pad it out. One of the best

would be to quote you a few lines and ask you how you feel. For

instance:

_Et me Phœbus amat: Phœbo sua semper apud me_

_Munera sunt, lauri et suave rubens hyacinthus._

This is not only a beautiful phrase, it is also true--and I am grateful

to the Delian. I will do my best never to put him out. I will keep by

me a few flowers for such a patron.

By the way, talking of that lovely couplet, do you know (it is true, it

is not a lie, I have the very words before me as I write)--do you know

that a gentleman still living translated that couplet thus: "Phœbus

loves me and I in my turn have gifts for Phœbus--laurels, and the

sweet blush of the hyacinth."

But this is not so wrong a rendering after all as that for which a

contemporary of mine was once responsible in the noblest and most

learned of the Oxford Colleges. For this man said (viva voce, it is

true) that certain Greek lines which really meant "at evening soft dew

descends upon the earth," signified in English, "Towards nightfall the

huge female sea monster crawls up upon the sand." Each a picture; the

one sweet, the other strong--but how different one from the other!

And as I have begun quoting, why not go on?

_Malo me Galatea petit, lasciva puella,_

_Et fugit ad salices et se cupit ante videri._

You may, if you like, apply this to yourself just as I applied the

first lines to myself. At any rate I will have nothing to do with them.

And really I can think of nothing more to say, and I must bring this to

an end.... But as I write, but as I write, a stream comes down from the

mountains, a girl escapes beyond the willow trees.

ON TITLES

In those long lists which the divine Rabelais delighted to string

together, wherewith also he has inspired many diverse men, Charles

Kingsley, Besant, and that remarkable historian York Powell to boot,

there is one omitted which I sometimes think Rabelais meant to write

and never did; and that is, the list of books which might well be

produced for the advancement and entertainment of mankind.

He did indeed produce a most glorious library of books, collected, if

you remember, for the education of the giant, every title in which

is a delight; and much better fun, I think, when you do not know the

allusions than when you do. Much better, that is, when you think it

was entirely made up out of Rabelais' head than when you get to know

that most of it was a parody on existing tomes. But he never gave us a

list of books which might exist and do not, and such a list is always

running in my head. From time to time I have jotted down a few names

for such books, and the regiment of them is now formidable. My only

hesitation in publishing it (or rather a fragment of it) is lest some

reader should steal my thunder and himself begin writing one of these

books. But I am charitable, and I also have sufficient knowledge of

time and space and human conditions to be certain that I cannot in what

is left of my life write them all myself, so I may as well throw out

the suggestions.

(1.) BRITISH HONOURS. _Being a guide to Literary Gents and Lion

Hunters, showing what Official Honours now exist in all States subject

to the British Crown, with their Distinctions, Emoluments (if any),

Order of Precedence and Method of Address in writing and in speech.

As also an Appendix showing the consequences mediate and immediate

following on the possession of each of such Honours by any man or

woman, and the consequent privileges of rank or custom attaching to

their relatives, children and dependents. The whole illustrated by

a copious Index with a coloured Frontispiece showing an Earl in his

Robes, and sundry diagrams._

Now, this would be a most useful book, and I do not think I will go on

with my list because it is in itself a subject not for one poor essay

but for a very pamphlet of examination and discussion.

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